Wa Dining Okan-lunches (again)

mmm-yoso!!! is the name of the food blog you are reading. Cathy is writing again.  

The last time I wrote about Okan was about 11 months ago.  It's time for an update.BB4755BC-EE10-4541-A3EB-F7E154B75D46 Covid restrictions are lessened, the tables are not as distanced.  People are invited to sit at the bar.

22297BC7-ABDA-44C5-8C22-F0C24C8D61B822297BC7-ABDA-44C5-8C22-F0C24C8D61B8 22297BC7-ABDA-44C5-8C22-F0C24C8D61B8 This is the current three page lunch menu.87B7CAB0-A484-41C8-8B3E-2236203A8E7E The sashimi salad ($11.50) is a good choice.  Fresh greens, shredded radish and a wasabi/sesame/soy dressing which is just right to compliment the fresh, tender raw fish.
87B7CAB0-A484-41C8-8B3E-2236203A8E7E Geso kara ($7).  The deep fried squid tentacles are tender, lightly battered and served with a citrusy ponzu.  Using just a squeeze of lemon (and no sauce) highlighted the freshness of the tentacles.
6B85107E-50AA-45AF-B641-1AF6BD854C67 The Tempura Combo ($11) is a very large shareable appetizer or can be a meal.  Three shrimp, four shishito peppers, eggplant slices, sweet potato, squash, carrot, one large shiitake cap, all perfectly fried to a light crisp and served with a light mirin/soy sauce.
87B7CAB0-A484-41C8-8B3E-2236203A8E7E The chicken katsu curry set ($12.50) was, once again,  a satisfying choice.  The curry here is slightly sweet, the fry is (again) perfect and the pickled sides are complimentary.9E80486C-85BA-4642-8E99-9702642C1455 The chicken kamameshi ($15.50) takes 20 minutes to prepare and is worth the wait.  The mixed rice is cooked with stock and vegetables (in this case at least three types of mushrooms), fried bean curd as well as the boneless skinless chicken.  The light, flavorful, fluffy rice is just perfect. C034FF58-77DE-4D0A-8441-45DE678BFDF4 44228B8D-DFE5-41F2-B008-E0067706DFB7ABAE254D-EF70-4363-9427-A73E00765DE7 You can (sort of) see the bowl is deep (next to the tea cup).  The rice paddle and bowls for sharing are just right for helping to share.  We each had three servings of this wonderful comfort-food meal.

It's so good to see Okan is thriving. 

Wa Dining Okan 3860 Convoy Suite 110 San Diego 92111 Open Sun-Thurs 11-2, 5-9:30 Fri-Sat 11-2, 5-10  website

06549D22-FD5D-44E9-B1A6-1C9211302980

 

Himalayan Palace Restaurant (Sports Arena)

Thanks for stopping by to read mmm-yoso!!!, a blog about food.  Cathy is writing today.

In February, The Mister and I found ourselves in the Sports Arena area of town and pulled into the parking lot between Phil's BBQ and Red Lobster.948FA038-4BF8-4F84-98FA-24A239B4BEAE_1_201_a In the back of that parking lot, we saw cars parked in front of this longstanding establishment and decided to try it for lunch. We have returned. (Prices have changed; I will list current approximate prices).
948FA038-4BF8-4F84-98FA-24A239B4BEAE_1_201_a The colorful interior (look at that ceiling!) is happy.

The menu is small, one sheet printed on both sides. 
948FA038-4BF8-4F84-98FA-24A239B4BEAE_1_201_a The Paneer Pakora ($7) is paneer cheese wrapped in chickpea batter and deep fried.2C678EAB-CE7D-4EA2-8B3D-E84AEF068E52 The little pockets are served with a tamarind dip and a mint chutney.  This was a wonderful choice of both textures and flavors.
948FA038-4BF8-4F84-98FA-24A239B4BEAE_1_201_a The keema naan (ground lamb filled bread)($8) was also an excellent choice. Fresh made bread filled with ground lamb which was cooked with various herbs. Satisfying and tasty.  
948FA038-4BF8-4F84-98FA-24A239B4BEAE_1_201_a The Muligatawny soup ($7) was absolutely mesemerizing with the lentils and chicken and (mild) curry along with a bit of 'sweet' (apple).389EF0A7-9C44-441D-A0B1-53383FB8BF51 On the most recent visit, the mulligatawny was not on the menu, but mushroom soup ($7) was a choice.  Creamy, garlic-y minced mushrooms blended with cumin and a few other spices, with a touch of (black?) pepper 'heat' in the background.  A good size serving. 

3A7AA5AC-BB7C-4CCB-AE1C-3F30DAA93651 Chicken Biryani ($14) is served in this deceptively deep bowl.  Basmati rice and shredded carrots with boneless chicken, ghee and whole spices (we chewed on some cardamom pods along with mustard seeds and fennel seeds; there were more) and fresh mint and cilantro. So many flavors!

7613C576-FC55-4FD7-ADCF-F9FFB5C7500D On our first visit, we saw this window signage.  The price has increased to $11.95.  Worth it.
948FA038-4BF8-4F84-98FA-24A239B4BEAE_1_201_a This is the 'non-vegetable' Thali. Rice and papadum (dough made with lentils or black beans, rolled very thin and deep fried) at the top (clockwise) Tandoori chicken, pickled vegetables, chicken tikka masala.  In the center is kheer (rice pudding).CE41844B-AD18-497B-919A-1E73D2556939 The vegetable Thali plate with rice and papadum , Navaratna Korma (onion, ginger, cashews, garlic and sesame seeds blended with coconut milk to make a sauce) along with carrot, onion, peas, raisins, almonds and paneer. Pickled vegetables. Saag (spinach) paneer (really good). Again, kheer in the center dessert area. 
13CB4B08-3148-4196-A8CF-F6D9DE31C3DEThe lunch specials include butter naan.

All in all, this longstanding (32 years) restaurant survived the Pandemic for a reason; quality.  The friendly, informative staff and plethora of  'regulars' along with the remarkable fresh and flavorful choices make this a wonderful place for a meal. 

Himalayan Palace Restaurant 3760 Sports Arena Blvd San Diego 92110 (619) 510-4966 Fax: (619) 510-4968 Open daily 11-3, 4-9 Website

C30E982D-3BBE-4064-8265-7DB7717B2AFF
A cooling mango lassi (yogurt-mango beverage) ($5)

Qin West Noodle (UTC)

I know quite a few people who were excited that LA Based Qin West opened in UTC this past February. I figured that the place would be pretty darn busy, so I waited. And based on what I'd heard; 45 minute waits for food, mistakes on takeout orders, super salty dishes. I think waiting for a couple of months was a good idea. Finally, a few weeks ago I headed over to UTC and easily found parking at 1055 in the morning. I parked by Macy's and made the short walk over to Qin West.

Qin West 01

It's a pretty simple interior; from the front counter where you order….

Qin West 02

To the simple fast-foodish dining area.

Qin West 03

The menu is clearly posted; featuring Shaanxi specialties, along with Sichuan influenced dishes.

Qin West 04

My timing was good; early in the week and just at opening time. By the time I got my food, about 20 minutes, there was a line to the door.

I purposely ordered too much food for just my lunch…..thinking that I'd take most of it home to have the Missus sample. The one dish I made sure to order was the Yang Rou Pao Mo ($15.99). As you've probably read ad nauseum, I haven't had a decent version of this dish outside of China; Xi'an to be precise. A lot of this has to do with the lack of appropriate bread; which, you break up by hand and place in a muttony broth to soak up all the flavors. The bread looks like this.

Vacation 2010 02 1105

All versions I've had whether here in San Diego or in the SGV, all have featured a waxy, slippery starchy "breadish" stuff that doesn't sop up the broth. So imagine my surprise when I unloaded my food and saw this.

Qin West 06

I think I actually swore out loud!

Qin West 05

I eagerly broke up the bread; it was a little too soft and leavened, but it wasn't too bad. And of course I poured the broth over everything.

Qin West 07

The lamb was not very gamy and was leaner than I would prefer, but the broth, while a bit heavy handed with the white pepper, wasn't too bad. 

Qin West 08

This is probably the best overall version of yang rou pao mo I've had outside of China. While I've had a decent version with regards to the lamb and broth (which was better than this), Qin West has the most complete "package" overall. I'll definitely have this again.

Man, I'm hoping to have this….the version from Tong Sheng Xiang (同盛祥) again one day….

Vacation 2010 02 1122

I also ordered the Twice Cooked Pork ($14.95)….which should have been called "spicy stir fried napa cabbage"……you could count the amount of pork in the dish on one hand.

Qin West 09

This was just oily and spicy…….not in the "ma-la" way….as in why not just drink chili oil with salt. I did notice something interesting; Qin West likes to use both dried chilies and huge pieces of jalapenos in their dishes. This was pretty bad.

I also order the combination Liang Cai ($14.75).

Qin West 10 Qin West 11  Two-thirds of this was pretty good; the pig ear had a nice crunch and the slices were generous; it went well with the chili oil. The Pai Huang Gua; smacked cucumbers were really bland, it just needed more garlic-soy sauce-salt, you name it. The tendon, while cut on the thick side and was fairly crunchy overall wasn't bad. The Missus did enjoy the pig ear and the tendon.

We actually had the liang cai over the course of three meals!

Qin West 12

This was not bad overall….

A week later I decided to check out Qin West again. Same strategy; early in the week, just at opening time, for takeout.

There were already 4 customers in front of me when I arrived, but no one behind me when I placed my order. Maybe they saw the young lady working the register chowing away while she took orders???

Qin West 12b

Isn't there some kind of food handling ordinance regarding this?

I placed my order which was ready in less than 15 minutes; before anyone else's……

Anyway, folks I knew were raving about the Liang Pi ($10.95), so I ordered that.

Qin West 13  Qin West 14 The portion size of this was quite generous. The noodles were still nice and chilled when I got back to the office….of course it's less than a 10 minute drive back. The noodles were a bit thicker than I like my "cold skin noodles", emphasis on "skin" and not as "bouncy" as I prefer. I enjoyed the blanched bean sprouts and the palate refreshing cucumbers, a must for this dish. It was definitely spicy enough, though I do like some black vinegar tones and a hint more garlic. But this is probably the best version we've got in San Diego right now.

Qin West 15

Qin West 16

I was also wondering about the Cumin Beef ($16.25) and ordered it. And then second thoughts crept in as I recalled the Twice Cooked Pork Napa Cabbage. The beef however, was pretty good.

Qin West 17

Notice the QW playbook move of both jalapenos and dried chilies? The beef was adequately tender; the portion size quite generous. While being a bit on the salty side; this really had enough cumin. In fact, when I opened up the container at my desk one of the guys in the office that day happened to be walking by and said out loud:

"What's that smell?"

I immediately apologized:

"Sorry, I ran out of deodorant this morning….."

I might have this dish again; but probably will not eat it in the office. Qin West 18

It does seem like Qin West is a good new addition to UTC. I need to try other items on the menu like the ro jia mo…..

Qin West Noodle
4353 La Jolla Village Drive (In UTC)
San Diego, CA 92122
Current Hours:
Daily 11am – 7pm

Verbena Kitchen – A Quick Look

*** Verbena Kitchen has closed

*** As we continue our "quick look" series – be aware that these posts are based on single visits

After dining at Wolf in the Woods and Black Radish, the Missus implored me to find yet another new place to have an early, not-crowded or outdoor dining place to try. I recalled that a restaurant named Verbena Kitchen had opened in the spot where Splash Wine Lounge used to be. I sent a the Missus a link to the website and She just didn't seem interested!!! I then sent Her the link to the Happy Hour menu….which starts at 4pm, which for us, in these times where we really don't want to be around too many people sounded perfect. So I made reservations for an outdoor table at 4pm.

Verbena 01

We arrived exactly at 4pm and was met with the most friendly, gracious guy whose name I believe is Dallas. He was wonderful to deal with. And since it was a bit windy on this day, he even saved us a table indoors in case we didn't want to eat outdoors. But we found an outdoor table in the corner, where sun still shone on us that we liked. Even though the outdoor seating is located street side and the traffic light meant buses and cars stopped right next to us; we enjoyed watching all the pooches walking by and the staff were so very nice.

And he was quick to tell us about the Happy Hour menu.

Verbena 01b

The Missus had a sangria which She enjoyed….in fact She had a second one!

The Missus enjoys Deviled Eggs so we got 5 at $2 a piece for HH, versus $15 on the regular menu.

Verbena 02

The Missus cracked up at the micro cilantro…..if you've seen any of the soups I make, you'll notice that we use a heck of a lot of micro cilantro these days. This was our favorite dish of the evening. Even though the crab on the deviled eggs were pretty much an afterthought we loved the mustard forward flavor of the egg yolk mixture which was texturally nice and creamy. The whites were cooked nicely as well.

The Oysters were our least favorite dish on the evening $1/each HH, versus $18 for a half dozen regular menu.

Verbena 03 Verbena 04  If you've ever read any of my posts where we eat raw oysters, you'll know that I don't put a lot of "stuff" on my oyster. I prefer at most, a touch of lemon and really savor the "finish" of the raw oyster. These Baja oysters were super briny, almost salty, without the nice "cucumbery" or "briny raw beef" finish. It just seemed to lack nuance. Still, at six bucks……

Verbena 05

We also got the Peruvian Shrimp Ceviche $14HH, $17 regular price.

Verbena 06

So, while this didn't use a "leche de tigre" for the cebiche as they would do in Peru; it was not bad. The aji amarillo was quite mild and this wasn't overly acidic. I did like the combination of Inka Corn, Furikake, tomato, red onion, and the aji. For some reason, I really liked it matched up with those sweet potato chips…perhaps I was channeling camote? The one thing we didn't care for was that the shrimp was fully cooked….not in lime juice, but actually fully cooked, rubbery, and tasteless. Heck, I could have just had everything but the shrimp and be perfectly happy.

We weren't sure about the Wagyu Beef Tartare ($18) when it arrived at our table.

Verbena 07

It seemed drenched in mayo, which turned out to be a decently flavored Dijon based aioli. We liked the grated cured egg yolk, which tasted like good salted egg yolk. We weren't sure about the fermented mushrooms, but they were very meaty in texture, and the capers really, well "capped" off the dish. The beef was cut a bit too coarse, but this was a pretty good dish overall. The slices of cucumber seemed to have had rice vinegar drizzled on it. I'd have this again. Verbena 08

Overall, a decent meal, for a very nice price, the most inexpensive of these "quick look" dinners. A big plus was the friendly and gracious staff.  "Dallas" told us to return on a Thursday when it's Happy Hour prices all evening. I do think we'll return.

Verbena Kitchen
3043 University Ave.
San Diego, CA 92104
Current Hours:
Wed – Thurs 4pm – 9pm
Friday 4pm – 10pm
Saturday 10am – 10pm
Sunday 10am – 230pm
Happy Hour from 4pm – 6pm and all evening Thursdays

A Takeout Revisit to The Congress Cafe and a Visit to the Memorial to Lucy, the White Deer of Mission Hills

**** Congress Cafe in now Encuentro Cafe – Same Owners/Menu. You can read an updated post here.

Every so often, I'll go ahead and do a takeout revisit to Congress Cafe. The food is not quite on the same level as Mi Pana in my opinion, but who knows, I haven't been back there since before Covid. I really like the friendly folks at Congress Cafe and as that earlier post mentions, I enjoy walking around Old Town early in the morning before the crowds descend on the place.

Congress Rev 01

It's always the same drill, I order at the Hostess Stand, go back to the bar area to pay; let the staff know that I'm going for a short walk to "earn" my Arepa. I usually get the Arepa Pabellon – still $13.95.

I'll return after about 15 minutes and take my Arepa somewhere………it's usually nearby Heritage Park, which never seems busy even on weekend mornings. I'll sit among the Victorian Homes …..

Heritage P 01

Or watch the dogs frolicking in the large open field….sometimes I see folks prepping for a wedding in the city's first Synagogue. It's peaceful and relaxing.

And the Arepa Pabellon from Congress Cafe has improved over time.

Congress Rev 02 Congress Rev 03   And while it's not quite as "super stuffed" it's a more balanced these days; at least to me. Sweet plantains, slightly milky cheese, earthy black beans, and moist shredded beef. I do wish the arepa was a bit more crisp, but this'll do.

Plus, like I mentioned earlier; everyone here is so warm and friendly.

Breakfast of champions, right?

The Congress Cafe
3941 Mason St.
San Diego, CA 92110
Current Hours:
Mon – Fri 8am – 2pm
Sa – Sun 8am – 3pm

On this morning, I was a bit later than usual, so I decided to check out one of my favorite spots in the area. Last summer, in the midst of going crazy with all the "Covid happenings" and missing all of our travels, I started doing some of what I'd call Urban Walks, like the Seven Bridges Walk I posted on. While doing a bit of research, I came across this post from back in 2016. The part that really caught my attention was the mention of "Lucy the White Deer if Mission Hills". Not sure if this was really true, I checked and found this Parks and Recreation report from 2006:

"This female white fallow deer roamed the hills of Mission Valley, Mission Hills,and Presidio Park. This doe escaped from the San Diego Zoo around 1965 and wandered free in Presidio Park for the next ten years."

Which sent me down into a rather shallow rabbit hole and a couple of interesting posts, some mentioned the albino deer escaping from the San Diego Zoo (of course this was denied), another saying that due to over-crowding issues, the San Diego Zoo sold the deer to someone in Mission Hills and the deer escaped. Whatever the story, I was hooked, heck even the San Diego History Center has a "memorial collection" on the deer, named Lucy.

According to the Ranger Report:

"The deer was spotted attempting to cross the I-8 freeway, and some locals reported seeing the deer get hit by a vehicle. Tragically, in the effort to catch the deer, Animal Control used a tranquilizer dart, which ultimately led to the deer’s death in December, 1975."

From what I read in various posts, Lucy was treasured and became sort of a mascot for the community. In fact, some of the "old timers" in the area said that Lucy's ghost haunts the area and they still see her on occasion.

Atlas Obscura mentions that  over 125 people attended the service and burial of Lucy.

A fund was created and in 1976 a monument was completed dedicated to Lucy on the spot where she is buried. 

So, where is this monument/memorial? You might be surprised. Have you ever driven west on Taylor Street parallel to the I-8? Right before the street to get to the Presidio you might have seen this. I was happy that the gate was open on this day.

Lucy 01

I've heard the area on top of the hill is called "Inspiration Point", but I believe it's also called Presidio Park. I've often seen folks taking wedding photos on the platform with a view that sits on one side of the parking lot.

On the other side is this hilly green area.

Lucy 04

And of course the views to Mission Valley are quite nice.

Lucy 03

As you walk a bit higher you'll see a bench and three stones…..

Lucy 05

This is the bench…..

IMG_0184

And right next to the bench is the monument.

Lucy 06

There's a concrete slab, with various animal footprints carved into it surrounding a watering hole.

Lucy 08

And this plaque, which says:

The White Deer of Mission Hills. Bliss in solitude beneath this tree, formless, silent, spirit free.

    A friend.

Lucy 07

Such a wonderful tribute to a beloved member of the community.

Have a great week!

Paris (Before Covid) – Our Favorite Croissants from La Maison d’Isabelle (times 2) and Hakata Choten (Les Halles Location)

Our flight from Ben Gurion International Airport arrived right on time; a touch after 1pm. I had chosen to stay in Paris overnight and then head to Provence the following day. Then according to our plan, we'd return to Paris on the TGV and spend two evenings before heading home. Little did we know that this as not to be and this evening would be our last in Paris,,,and with Covid-19…..well, let's just say we probably would have been back in our favorite city at least 3 times since.

We caught the RER to Les Halles/Chatelet and because this was for just one evening stayed close by in the 4th Arrondissement at a small hotel on a side street. Of course, as soon as we checked in, the Missus was ready to go. And because we'd had breakfast and a lunch on our flight, I had a place on my "list" for something we're always on a hunt for in Paris…..Croissants. Now, the place I had in mind was all the way in the 5th Arrondissement….but you know the Missus…this was no problemo, so we headed out.

IMG_4225

We loved the lovely familiarity as we walked past Hotel d'Ville and crossed the Seine. And of course, there's always something new to be seen, like this church just past Shakespeare and Co; named Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre.

IMG_4229 (2)

And for there; it's just a short stroll to La Maison d’Isabelle which is on Boulevard Saint-Germain. We were somewhat familiar with the area having stayed close by during earlier visits.

IMG_4231

As you can see La Maison d’Isabelle, which won the award for Best Croissant Au Buerre in Paris in 2018….as you can tell by the ginourmous sign. We had walked past this bakery several times over the years, though before they won. I walked in and order a Croissant Au Buerre, which looked quite lovely.

IMG_4233

We immediately found a bench and cracked the croissant open….and holy smokes; the light, fluffy, interior, the heavenly light and crisp exterior, just the right amount of butter and salt. Easily the best we've had so far.

La Maison d’Isabelle
47T Boulevard Saint-Germain
75005 Paris, France

Buoyed by the croissant, the Missus decided She wanted to check out Hermes and since it was the Christmas season, I wanted to check out the window displays at Le Bon Marche. It was kind of chilly and a tad drizzly, but we did have a nice stroll and the Missus did not do any damage to our credit cards! 

Like I said there's always something to see in Paris.

IMG_4234

In the middle of a park like square is that sculpture above. This is Allée Pierre-Herbart named after writer and resistance fighter Pierre Herbart.

After heading back to the hotel and taking a short break we headed back out. This time we headed on over to Galeries Lafayette to check out the Christmas Displays.

IMG_9025 IMG_9028  Every year there's a new theme. Though every year there's the five story Christmas Tree in the middle of the store that slowly rotates.

I just become a kid again…the wonder, the fascination, it always puts me in the Christmas frame of mind.

We love watching the little kids with their noses pressed up against the window or climbing up the wooden stools so they can watch the displays.

IMG_9022

As for dinner; well it was somewhat chilly and damp, we'd been away from home for almost two weeks and the Missus was missing Asian Food. On the way back to the hotel, I recalled that there was a location of Hakata Choten near Les Halles. The Missus had enjoyed the ramen at that location, so I suggested checking out the Les Halles location. The Missus really didn't need to be convinced. 

IMG_4247

It was nice and warm inside the restaurant, I don't think anyone would be eating outside tonight; the folks working actually tried talking to us in first French, then Japanese……we cracked up.

IMG_4240

We ordered the Tonkotsu with Black Garlic (again) and the Missus also got some Sparkling Sake.

IMG_4239

IMG_4243  IMG_4244  While the broth was a bit thinner than what we'd had at the Opera location; that black garlic oil added a nice savory-sweetness to things. It was still quite rich in a nice tongue-coating kind of way. 

The noodles were just perfect, nice al dente "pull and chew".

While the Missus might now believe that Menya here in San Diego is better; this was just what we needed on this damp and chilly evening.

Hakata Choten Les Halles
16 Rue de la Grande Truanderie
75001 Paris, France

IMG_4249

The following day our rain to Avignon was scheduled for noon, which meant, at least to the Missus that we could have yet another shot at the croissants from La Maison d’Isabelle which opens at 6am. So, we headed off before 6am……

And got our croissants; this time we noticed the trophies quite obviously displayed.

IMG_4252

And it was just as good!

IMG_9487

We actually took it over to the Cafe on the corner – Le Village Ronsard.

IMG_4251

We followed unspoken café rule…..if an outdoor table has silverware on it; you must order food….if it sits without place settings; you can just get coffee. For us; it's usually a Cafe Allonge…..sort of like an Americano.

IMG_4250

Le Village Ronsard
47T Boulevard Saint-Germain
75005 Paris, France

Bolstered by Caffeine the Missus wanted to go on a stroll, so we headed off to places that were familiar to us…..a "sleeping" Pantheon.

IMG_4254

The market street Rue Mouffetard….

IMG_4255

Then over to Place Monge, where the Marché Monge was getting set-up. 

IMG_4256_02

Soon enough, it was time to head back to grab our bags and then we were off to Gare Lyon and Avignon.

We took a moment to take a look at Notre Dame….the fire had occurred just a bit over 7 months earlier.

IMG_4258

I hope to live long enough to see Notre Dame rise again!

Soon enough, we were on our TGV, off to Avignon!

**** Postscript: I recently heard from "FOY" AndyS……man, it had been over 8 years! It was great hearing from you Andy! I'm glad you are well. And since you wrote:

"Ramen has been my biggest fetish for the last few years.  I was scouring LA and anywhere for ramen.  Every visit to Japan, I made it a point to never repeat a single type of ramen in a trip and wow.. was I amazed at how diverse ramen is there."

And since there's ramen in this post…..I want to dedicate this post to you. It made my day to receive your email! Take care!

 

Jerusalem (Before Covid) – Exploring Machaneh Yehudah Market and the Old City, Lunch at Jachnun Bar, Dinner at Machneyuda, and Beer Bazaar

**** This is another long one as I try to finish up our Israel posts; thanks for dropping by

I made sure to keep our last full day in Jerusalem open. I figured that we'd have seen enough over the last couple of days to figure out how we'd like to spend the day. And we started off at Machaneh Yehuda Market.

IMG_4156

It was early and the food vendors weren't open yet, so we had a chance to check out the produce, bakery, and meat stalls….something we always enjoy and this was no exception.

IMG_4157
IMG_4157

We always learn so much about the culture and a region by just exploring the open air markets.

IMG_4161
IMG_4161  IMG_4165 We stopped to check out the varieties of tea available in this shop and the very friendly young man started chatting with us. He was so nice and we came to find out that he is originally from new York City! Of course the Missus finding out he was from the states immediately started the "interrogation"….boy did the questions flow. And he was so nice, with a great sense of humor. I ended up getting a coffee and the Missus some tea….She even purchased some tea as well. 

I asked the young man where to grab a Sabich and he made a recommendation…..he was so nice.

IMG_4164

Machaneh Yehudah Market
Agripas St. 90
Jerusalem, Israel

From here we walked past Mamilla Mall and into the Old City.

IMG_4168
IMG_4168

This was a Monday and things seemed much quieter than the previous days.

IMG_4170

IMG_4171

And along with the now familiar sites…..

IMG_4176

IMG_9469

There were things we hadn't noticed on the previous day. At the Fifth Station of the Cross we saw this.

IMG_4179

Apparently, this is where Christ stumbled and placed his hand on the wall to balance himself. And this is his handprint in stone along the Via Dolorosa.

We went ahead and followed the route in reverse from where we had started the previous day.

IMG_4180

IMG_4182 IMG_4183  Until we arrived at the First Station where Pontius Pilate condemned Jesus to die and the Crown of Thorns was placed on his head.

Right past this spot is the Church of the Flagellation where Pilate had Jesus flogged. We had wanted to see this area the previous day, but our guide would not take us because it as in the Muslim Quarter.

IMG_9470

From here we decided to explore the Muslim Quarter for a bit.

IMG_4191

Which seemed pretty mellow and relaxed. We stopped for some tea at this shop.

IMG_4190

IMG_4187

And just hung out with the old timers outside and watched the world go by…..

IMG_4189

We were starting to get a bit hungry so we headed back to the area around Machaneh Yehudah Market and found the recommended Sabich Shop. We walked in and the menu was in Hebrew. There were no customers when we arrived so I asked about the menu….the two young ladies working were not very nice; I was told; "you read the menu and order….it right there…" And she walked away. I did a Google translate thing, walked back to the counter and was ignored. Two customers walked in behind me and their order was taken. So, I figured that they really didn't want my business so we crossed the street and went into the Market and stopped at this stand.

IMG_4193

The Young Man working the counter was a hoot….he loved flirting with all the girls walking by.

There was something on the menu She wanted to try……

IMG_4195  IMG_4201  The Shakshuka. This was quite good; great acidic-sweet tomato flavors…..like sunshine in the form of food. The eggs were lovely, the Missus just loved the seasoning. She even enjoyed the bread!

I was told; "you better up your Shakshuka game!"

Hmmm…..

IMG_4200

Me, well I got the namesake item; the Jachnun.

IMG_4197 IMG_4202   Man, this was quite good as well. Loved the pastry used to wrap the simple fillings; egg and eggplant was particularly tasty.

This was a very nice lunch…I'm glad we came here; I guess it was fate, huh?

Jachnun Bar
(Machaneh Yehudah Market)

We strolled back to the apartment and packed, we had a morning flight back to Paris, so there would be no time to dilly-dally in the morning. After which we had a nice afternoon nap.

For our last meal, I chose a highly recommended and very popular restaurant near Machaneh Yehudah Market named Machneyuda. I kept reading about the place and when Yotam Ottolenghi mentioned the place in several articles online; well it just seemed like the right pick for us.

We had 645 reservations and arrived at a hair past 630. The place was already packed and we were seated upstairs where the music and the discussions weren't quite as loud.

IMG_4220  IMG_4204 The menu is a single sheet; but there's quite a bit to choose from. The direction of our ordering was based on our previous meals and we also selected dishes that caught our attention.

And as we often do; we made a meal out of several starters as those menu items seemed the most interesting.

The first two dishes were easy to pick. We had really enjoyed the vegetables in Israel, so we made sure to get a couple of veggie based items.

Starting with the Turkish Tomato Salad.

IMG_4206

Man, the wonderful sweet-acidity of the tomatoes; just perfect.

The Cabbage Siniya was also very good.

IMG_4208

The cabbage had been charred thus creating a nice smoky-sweetness and wonderful textural contrast. The nutty-earthy tones of the tahini gave the dish some heft and the chilies added a bit of zip.

Our least favorite item of the night was the Shaour Tartare.

IMG_4210  IMG_4211 The tartare was delivered covered by spinach leaves; which were browning and getting discolored. The fish itself was quite chewy and very mild in flavor which was just over-powered by the aioli, herbs, and spices.

Meanwhile, the Sweetbreads were so delici-yoso!!!

IMG_4215

Firm at first bite, giving way to a wonderful creaminess; the tomato and radish paired quite well, smoothing out any strong metallic-offal flavors with the dill adding in a grassy, slightly anise touch to things. The flatbread was crisp and nicely charred.

Our last dish was the Crispy Brain with Eggplant.

IMG_4218

As if things couldn't get better; the brain was nicely fried; the interior so crisp then creamy, the tender eggplant smoky, the bread added a brioche like sweetness.

Overall, this was a excellent dinner and a great way to end our stay in Jerusalem.

Machneyuda
Beit Ya'akov St. 10
Jerusalem, Israel

After this wonderful dinner, the Missus treated me to a nightcap, stopping at the Beer Bazaar location in Machaneh Yehudah Market.

IMG_4223

Hipster Jerusalem anyone?

IMG_4222

Actually we enjoyed the vibe here; the bartender spent time in San Diego! 

IMG_4221

She told me to keep the coaster to remember our time here.

Cool folks!

Beer Bazaar Jerusalem
(Machaneh Yehudah Market)

Like I said, this was our favorite area in Jerusalem.

Back at the apartment, I sat on the porch for a while.

IMG_4224

And tried to take in all that we'd seen and done over the last couple of days….whew…..

The next morning we were off to Ben Gurion International Airport. We had time to check out the lounge since we were flying Business Class on El Al.

IMG_9474
IMG_9474

And had a light breakfast.

IMG_9477

And we got fed again on our flight to Paris…..

IMG_9479

We arrived in Paris on time. We'd have one night before moving on to our next stop!

Jerusalem (Before Covid) – A Tour of the Old City and Dinner at Hachapuria

**** I'm sure I could write chapters about the Old City. But I'm going to try to be as concise as possible

We had really planned to learn a lot more about the Old City on our third full day in Jerusalem. So, like the previous two days, I figured a private tour might work for the best. And we had really enjoyed the tours we took the previous two days. I had gotten the Missus and I a private tour, that was supposed to be secular….I should have known better. Our guide wasn't very friendly, nor did he take much time to explain things; he basically drove or walked us to places, would tell us what the place was, and set us out on our own and go for a smoke. Oh well.

We started the morning by grabbing our caffeine fix from the nearby Nadi Cafe, which seemed to be full of students.

IMG_4013   Our "guide" then met us at back at our apartment and drove us up to the Mount of Olives. We kinda knew what we were in for after he basically left us and went back to the car to wait for us.

Still, it was a lovely view.

IMG_4018

We then drove down to the city and parked and then walked along the old city walls.

IMG_4024

IMG_4026  IMG_9450 And eventually crossed a trench that led us to some alleyways. Soon enough we saw a spire rising in front of us. This is the Church of the Dormition. We were led into a room and were told this was the "Room of the Last Supper"; the Cenacle. To imagine that this was where it was believed that the Last Supper was held!

This was also supposedly the place where Christ washed the feet of his Disciples.

IMG_4031

IMG_4033

We were led down some stairs to a hallway, which had been converted to a synagogue. From here, the Missus had to go one way, I another.

IMG_4037

And I entered this room.

IMG_4039

This is David's Tomb. While not considered to be the actual resting place of King David (the tomb is empty), this is a quote from Professor Doron Barr on the Wikipedia Page:

"Although the sources for the tradition of David's Tomb on Mount Zion are not clear, it appears that it only began to take root during the subsequent, early Muslim period. Apparently, the Christians inherited this belief from the Muslims, and only at a relatively late juncture in the city’s history were the Jews finally convinced as well" IMG_4046

We were then taken into the Church of the Dormition. Dormition means to "fall asleep" and it is claimed that this is where the Virgin Mary fell into "eternal sleep". The crypt is quite an amazing place; it features a  life sized "Sleeping Mary".

And the walls are adorned with mosaics and images of famous women from the Bible.

It's quite stunning.

IMG_4049

IMG_4053

IMG_4055

We also visited the Church as well.

Church of the Dormition - Jerusalem
Church of the Dormition - Jerusalem
Church of the Dormition - Jerusalem

This is the view from Mount Zion.

IMG_4025

From here we were led thru the Zion Gate.

IMG_4060

To an area lined with colonnades.

IMG_4064

We walked down the stairs to the excavated street known as the Cardo, which dates back to Byzantine times and was once the main street of Jerusalem.

IMG_4074

IMG_4066

It's now a pretty swanky shopping arcade. Regardless, it's quite impressive.

IMG_4076

From here we were led past Hurva Square.

IMG_4069

And taken to a shop named Everest Cafeteria Ramzi where we had lunch; while our guide left and did whatever stuffs he needed to.

IMG_4080
IMG_4080

After lunch we were guided down the street……to an area I'm sure most people have heard of.

IMG_4082

The Western Wall. Because of the walls proximity to the restricted access Temple Mount, this wall built by Herod the Great is considered the Holiest site in Jerusalem and is a place of pilgrimage and prayer for many Jews. There are separate sections for men and women. The Missus had made sure to dress appropriately for this visit and after going thru security I wore a temporary Kippah (aka yarmulke).

IMG_9461

IMG_4090

I saw many folks placing "prayers"; slips of papers into the wall. I know some folks to whom a visit to the Western Wall has been one of the most important and cherished events in their life. I had been told that I should never turn my back to the wall as it is considered disrespectful, so I made sure to back away.

One of our requests when we booked the tour was to see all the stations of the Via Dolorosa, the "Way of the Cross"; basically the path Jesus took to his crucifixion. Our guide decided to start at Station III of the Via Dolorosa; where Jesus fell for the first time.

IMG_4099

You can see the relief of Jesus falling under the weight of the cross above the door of the Armenian Chapel. Right next to it is the Fourth Station of the Cross, where Jesus met his mother, Mary. This is right in front of the Armenian Church.

We were then walked past the Fifth and to the Sixth Station of the Cross.

IMG_4102

This is where Veronica, who would become Saint Veronica, wiped the sweat and blood off of Jesus's face. That cloth, called the Veil of Veronica is said to have the image of Jesus' face on it.

Down the street is the Seventh Station.

IMG_4103 IMG_4105  The Seventh Station is where Jesus fell for the second time.

The Ninth Station is where Jesus fell of the third time.

From here, we were taken into the main plaza of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Volumes could be written on this, but I'll keep it brief.

IMG_4107

Built on what is believed to be the site of Jesus' crucifixion, locations in the church complex are run by various Christian religions using what is known as the Status Quo.

IMG_4109

IMG_4118
IMG_4118 IMG_4122_02  It was quite intense watching folks praying over, weeping, and in one case a woman cried out and threw herself over the Stone of Unction (Stone of Anointing) which lays upon the site where Christs body was laid after being removed from the crucifix and prepared to be buried. Man….

And of course there's the Tomb of Christ, where Jesus laid buried for three days before rising from the dead. 

All these sacred sites in one place is kind of overwhelming even for an Agnostic like me.

If we'd had more time, I would have gotten a private guide just for the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Our guide just pointed to the entrance and told us where to meet him. He seemed uncomfortable in this area.

IMG_4131
IMG_4131

IMG_4134
IMG_4134

After leaving the church, we decided to cut our guide loose. Instead of taking us back to his car and driving us back to the apartment, we decided to walk back. The Jaffa Gate was close by and we strolled thru the Mamilla Mall and did some window shopping. And listened to some music…..

IMG_4140 (2)

We took a nice break at the apartment before heading out to dinner. 

After a pretty full day, I decided that we should go to the area around Machaneh Yehudah Market to grab something to eat. And while strolling around the market something clicked. This was the place we felt most comfortable in Jerusalem. So we'd return here for sure; especially since we had reservations at Machneyuda the following night.

We just wanted something casual for dinner and I had a place in mind right outside the market called Hachapuria whose specialty is a Georgian specialty called Hachapuri (Khachapuri).

IMG_4151

Service was efficient and the prices were quite reasonable.

IMG_4142_02

We started with a "salad", which was so very good, especially the wonderful smoky, earthy eggplant.

IMG_4145

Man, the vegetables in Israel just seemed to good!

Here's the Acharuli Hachapuri.

IMG_4148

We loved this. The boat shaped dough was so tasty; a perfect balance of yeastiness-salt-sugar, the texture perfectly crisp; the Sulguni cheese had a mild salty-sour-acidity, was stringy, and not overwhelming….and who doesn't love that egg???? And yes, that's a blob of butter on top of the egg!

We forgot about even using the provided sauces!

IMG_4149_02   

A wonderful dinner!

Hachapuria
5 Ha-Shikma
Jerusalem 9432305 Israel

After dinner we strolled back to the apartment. Tomorrow was our "free day" and we were looking forward to just wandering around and Machaneh Yehudah Market was definitely on that list.

Thanks for stopping by!

Roadtrip (During Covid) – Comparing Sea Harbour (Rosemead), Then and Now

Recently we had an appointment….a looong overdue appointment in our old neighborhood. The Missus had been wanting Dim Sum so we decided to revisit an old favorite of ours, Sea Harbour before our appointment. We got there about 10 minutes before opening and we waited by the front door….and then of course the "SGV moment" happened. As the door opened, a guy and his wife just cut right in front of us and then as we stood at the host stand asking for a table for two another couple pushed right in front of us and got seated….but heck, I guess it's ok because they are regulars??? Welcome to the SGV……I'm not sure if it's because I've lived in San Diego so long, but it seems that it's even worse these days…

Anyway, we got our table and placed our order. There seemed to be a strange disconnect during our meal as things took a very long time to come out and the order in which items came out seemed a bit strange. Also, some of the dishes seemed a bit off and one was just plain terrible. So, after coming back home, I dug out some photos from previous visits to Sea Harbour over the years and did a comparison of some of the dishes.

So, here's the meal in order.

Usually, during dim sum meals, noodles and rice comes out last…..but not today my friends…..the Seafood Pan Fried Noodles was out first.

SH T and N 01

The Seafood was excellent; cooked perfectly. The noodles not so much as some were just really hard….not crisp, hard. And there just wasn't enough sauce/gravy in the dish to help soften the noodles. There seemed to be a smaller portion of seafood as well.

Here's a photo from a previous visit.

Comc Sea Harbour 10

The Durian Pastry arrived next….these were good. Light, creamy interior, crisp exterior…though more of a dessert kind of thing.

SH T and N 02

One of the two items we had that seemed basically unchanged (except for price) was the Egg Tofu with Abalone Sauce.

SH T and N 03

Wonderful creamy interior; slightly crisp exterior, nice savory sauce……

It does seem that earlier versions had a bit more sauce though….

SeaHarbourTh 07

The other was the Sticky Rice in Lotus leaf which was solid and quite filling….

SH T and N 04

SH T and N 05

Quite hefty with a decent amount of pork filling.

Next up was a favorite of ours; the Shrimp, Dry Scallop, and Chinese Celery Dumplings. 

SH T and N 07  SH T and N 07b The shrimp were nice and plump, the dry scallops added a sweet-savoriness, and the celery helped provide a nice "clean" finish and crunch to things. The biggest issue for us was how thick, sticky, and rubbery the wrapper was.

I thought it was much thicker than on previous visits and also that it used to have "folds"; so when I returned home and looked at previous photos; guess what?

Here's what it used to look like.

Comc Sea Harbour 05

I guess I'm not quite senile yet…..

We also ordered the Black Fungus and Celery Dumpling.

SH T and N 09  SH T and N 09b  These suffered from the same issue with regards to the wrapper as the shrimp and dry scallop dumplings. Too thick, doughy, and sticky. In this case the filling just could not stand up to all that wrapper; even with chili oil…..

Here's a photo of this from a previous visit……it looks like something from a total different restaurant, doesn't it?

Comc Sea Harbour 06

And yet, I knew that if the last item to arrive would be up to our Sea Harbour standards, everything would be fine and end on a high note. The Missus's favorite item from here is the Radish Cake with XO Sauce. When it arrived, the Missus and I looked at each other and said "where's the XO sauce"?

SH T and N 11

Apparently, these days, they saute the bean sprouts with the XO sauce and dump it on the radish cake. Which used to be nicely crisp on the exterior and soft and with a decadently melt-in-your-mouth tender interior. This was like eating mush….it was terrible and lacked flavor. This was the straw that broke the camel's back.

I mean look at how it used to be.

Comc Sea Harbour 08

Does it even look like the same dish?

The service was uneven, the pacing terrible, the staff indifferent, all for $80 of dim sum for two. It was quite sad; Sea Harbour was once our favorite Dim Sum restaurant. Perhaps Covid has changed things….I can imagine changing portion size and using some products sparingly….but even technique seemed missing here; look at those dumplings! 

We left sad and depressed, as in the days before Covid, Sea Harbour was a favorite stop for us in the SGV. I must have done at least a half dozen posts on the place and I know that Ed from Yuma had done at least two.

Looks like we'll have to find a new go-to Dim Sum restaurant in the SGV. 

Sea Harbour Seafood Restaurant
3939 Rosemead Blvd
Rosemead, CA 91770

Sangucheria Peruvian Street Food

Back in mid-March, I went on one of my "drives with no purpose"……I guess basically doing the Flâneur, except very SoCal…..I'm not sure what the French would call it? Perhaps "pas d'entraînement objectif"?

Anyway, I was wondering if anything had taken residence in the previous location of a favorite "local grindz" place of mine. So, I drove on over to Tierrasanta and into the strip mall at 5950 Santo Road. I was a bit surprised to see that the market in the mall seems to have closed; but was even more surprised to see the sign for "Sangucheria Peruvian Street Food"! My goodness! 

Folks who've read this blog for a while know that my first documented international trip was to Peru in 2007…man, almost 15 years ago! It was the first time that a cuisine had inspired me to travel somewhere. Something that has since been a common theme for us. So Peruvian cuisine holds a special place in my heart and I was fascinated to see a Sanguche place here.

It was Sunday, so the place was closed, but I made sure to check them out that very week!

Sangucheria 01 Sangucheria 02  The shop is even more spartan than when it was ISC, with a couple of tables and a takeout counter. The menu is brief, with 5 Sanguches (sandwiches) and several drinks and two types of fries.

Of course, I had to order the Sanguche de Chicharron (Pan con Chicharron). After all, I needed to see how it compared to what I had at Dona Paulina in Lima, right?

I ordered the Sanguche de Chicharron and an order of Sweet Potato Fries.

Sangucheria 03 Sangucheria 04 In Peru, they serve this sandwich in what they call "pan Frances"; basically French Bread. Though it is much lighter than what we would call a French Roll here in the states. This version was served on what I'd consider a Telera roll; that you'd get from your neighborhood Mercado. It is light , yeasty, and held up well.

The pork was a bit on the chewy side; which is pretty much in line with what we had in Peru; though I wish it was a bit more "swiney", but "the other white meat" is a US thing. I would have preferred a good Salza Criolla, which would have some heat, cilantro, and lime, then the typical pickeld onions provided. Also would have liked a bit more camote (sweet potato) as it was really lost in the sandwich.

Sangucheria 05

Overall, a decent Sanguche. When I'm missing Peru, I'll have it again.

The Sweet Potato Fries where seasoned perfectly and had that wonderful mildly sweet flavor and nice starchiness.

Sangucheria 06

The fries however, did not travel well and while the flavor was good, it was quite soggy by the time I got back to the office……about 15 minutes road time.

As week later, I decided to return and order something else…..I choose the Asado (beef) Sandwich.

Sangucheria 07

Which came with two "aji"….a nice Aji Verde, a spicy-creamy green sauce and a sorta-kinda Aji Amarillo kind of thing which seemed more like a spicy salad dressing???

Sangucheria 07b

The sandwich was served in a Ciabatta Roll, which is typical for Sanguche Asado.

Sangucheria 08

I recall a conversation with Benjamin, who was our driver for our flight over the Nazca Lines regarding Sanguches….yes, you know me……He is the one that recommended Dona Paulina over La Lucha in Lima…it's where he takes his family. He told me that often times folks make Sanguche de Asado with leftover beef, so it can be tough and dry. Which is kind of what the beef in this sandwich was.

Sangucheria 07c

It could have used more of the nice, pungent-sweet carmelized onions….though I'm glad I had the Aji Verde. Still, I'll pass on this one in the future. Sangucheria 09

The folks working at Sangucheria Peruvian Street Food are amazingly warm, friendly, and gracious. And that point alone means I'll return again soon….when I'm thinking and dreaming about wonderful Peru.

Food has that wonderful affect; it will sometimes take me back to people, places, and various moments……and that is priceless.

Sangucheria Peruvian Street Food
5950 Santo Rd.
San Diego, CA 92124
Current Hours:
Mon – Thurs 11am – 4pm
Fri – Sat 11am – 6pm
Closed Sundays