July 2007 – mmm-yoso

Birrieria Y Pasteleria La Nortenita

July 31, 2007 mmm-yoso Mexican Restaurants

**** Birrieria Y Pasteleria La Nortenita has closed

I readily admit that at I will over strategize at times. If I'm not sure that the Missus will enjoy a particular restaurant, I'll usually try it out first. But at times, this approach just doesn't work out. La Nortenita is a good example of that. I first drove by La Nortenita earlier this year, and made a note to check it out. The problem was that each time I tried to stop by, the place was either packed, or no parking could be found. Finally, I just told the Missus about the place, and early one weekend morning we made a drive down to La Nortenita.

As you can see this little restaurant is partially hidden by trees, and if you're driving down Imperial avenue at a fast clip, you might just blink and miss it.

But if you slow down a bit, you won't miss this:

So let's all rub our greedy little hands together, and go "mmmm Barbacoa"!

The little restaurant has a "homey" feel to it, except for the "window" which looks a bit out of place. And the wonderful aromas floating in the air!

Though the menu is written in Spanish, it is pretty easy to understand. The Missus and I have a little joke, even though I won't be able to ask for the restroom in Mexico, I sure won't starve……..

The menu is broken down into tacos, gorditas, sopes, and tortas on one page, and the "combination plates" and guisados on the other. First the condiments were delivered to the table:

Since this is a barbacoa/birria restaurant, ordering was pretty easy. I started with 1 Birria de Chivo and 2 Barbacoa de Borrego(in this case slow cooked lamb) tacos($2.14/ea):

Three large size tacos with a generous amount of meat, wrapped in rustic, steaming hot tortillas that were made to order arrived at the table.

The Birria de Chivo taco consisted of shredded roasted meat, that had been dunked into a chili infused broth, which delivered a nice rich chili "punch".

With just a touch of onions and cilantro, I needed nothing else to enjoy this taco.

The Barbacoa de Borrego consisted of shredded lamb that had been mixed with a bit of the lamb broth/consomme.

Adding a tiny squeeze of lime to balance out the richness, and onion and cilantro to act as a counterpoint to the wonderful mildly wild and gamey flavor of the meat. A touch of salsa roja added a nice bit of smokey heat to the taco, making it mucho delici-yoso…….

The Missus was torn, She couldn't decided whether to get the Birria de Chivo or the Barbacoa….so She got both! Luckily, there were medium sized (mediana) portions available.

The Birria de Chivo was the first to arrive (mediana – $4.95):

Along with the good sized bowl of soup, a warmer with about a half dozen thick and steaming tortillas arrived…so hot you could barely hold them! The actual broth was not as spicy as it looks, and had more of a peppery-spicy flavor, with just a tiny hint of sweetness. The broth was hearty, though not too rich.

There was an abundance of meat in the bowl as well.

The Missus also ordered the Barbacoa de Borrego(mediana-$4.95):

A plate arrived with fragrant barbacoa topped with a steaming tortilla. As was our previous experience with the barbacoa at El Borrego a bowl of lamb broth/consomme arrived as well. The consomme was a light broth flavored with lamb drippings, with small shreds of lamb and garbanzo beans. The flavor was not a pronounced as the version at El Borrego, and a small squeeze of lime added some brightness to the dish. The barbacoa had been flavored with the broth as well.

Here's a better look:

The meat was moist, with a nice and rich lamb flavor. As with barbacoa, there's a salt shaker on the table for flavoring…..which I think is unnecessary. As the Missus started to dig in Josefina Ramos delivered 5 more steaming hot tortillas to the table. Man this was good! The Missus, who believes, but doesn't follow the "Yin-Yang" philosophy of eating (i.e. "hot foods" balanced by "cold foods"), told me that even though She almost finished both dishes, there was no feeling of being stuffed silly, probably due to lamb being "hot" food, thus giving Her invigorating energy! Until we went home and She proceeded to go into a food coma…….

A week to the day later, the Missus had a craving for lamb, and so we drove back down to Imperial, and La Nortenita. We arrived at a bit before 10am so the restaurant was empty, and Josefina greeted us with a large warm smile. I think she recalled the Missus's appetite! Not wanting to stuff ourselves silly, the Missus ordered the Birria de Chivo "grande"(sorry, no photo!), and I ordered the Barbacoa (grande – $7.63):

This time a larger plate! Along with the steaming hot tortillas and consomme. On this day, I thought the barbacoa was even better than on our previous visit. Still moist and flavorful, but this time the meat to fat ratio made this an almost decadent dish. The Missus who thought the birria was better, changed Her mind after tasting the barbacoa.

This was very satisfying, and too much for me to finish. Luckily, the Missus was on hand. By this time the little restaurant was completely filled. And through some restaurant ESP, it seemed that everyone knew that the barbacoa was excellent today since almost everyone had plates of barbacoa in front of them. It was interesting watching the different techniques for eating the lamb. Some made little tacos and dipped them into the broth, some poured the broth over the meat and made little tacos, and those dubbed the "efficient eaters" added the cilantro and onions to the plate, and mixed in the broth, and went to town! The Missus kept telling me…just think if we had some rice! So I'm guessing a rather large take out order is in our future.

For us, the experience of eating at La Nortenita is like eating in your favorite Aunt's home. The service warm and friendly, and if they know you love their food….. As an example, while waiting for our food, the Missus was checking out the various cakes, and other confections. Josefina seems to be quite an accomplished cake maker. As we were finishing, the nice young lady working on this day, brought us both a little sample for dessert, now that deserves an exclamation point! The restaurant can be on the hot side, and the ventilation is not the best, so when this tiny restaurant gets full…. The barbacoa is not as refined as El Borrego, but I prefer the rustic flavors and richness of the lamb at La Nortenita. Though I think the broth at El Borrego is much richer in flavor.

Birrieria Y Pasteleria La Nortenita
2455 Imperial Ave
San Diego, CA

Monterey Peninsula: Passionfish Introduction

July 29, 2007 ed fromyuma American Restaurants, Asian Fusion/Pacific Rim/Hawaii Style Fusion, Monterey/Carmel/Monterey Peninsula, Seafood, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!

Who knows what Kirk and Cathy are up to right now, but this is ed from Yuma – just back from two weeks in Monterey – and I want to share my experiences at one of my very favorite restaurants. This post is part one. If Kirk lets me go on, I will discuss salads and appetizers in part 2 and entrees in part 3.

Kirk’s recent post about his rotation made me realize that one restaurant, Passionfish on the Monterey Peninsula, 600 miles away from where I live, is definitely on my rotation.

Some background: before I became ed from Yuma, I was once ed from Monterey, where I lived for a dozen years. These days, Monterey is my favorite vacation spot, and I still have friends in the area, including a very nice couple – obviously tolerant of eccentricity – who let me stay in the spare bedroom at their condo. For the last several years, I have enjoyed a couple of weeks escaping the searing summer weather in Yuma and savoring the beautiful scenery, the cool ocean breezes, and the wonderful restaurants in the Monterey area. While I do some cooking in their kitchen and sometimes Steve and Helen prepare meals as well, Monterey and its adjacent communities (Carmel, Pacific Grove, Seaside, Marina, among others) have numerous tempting restaurants that cater both to locals and to the innumerable tourists who flock like seagulls every summer to this beautiful part of the central California coast. Never much good at resisting temptation (which partly explains my lack of marital success), I willingly succumb to these alluring eateries and usually have 7 – 10 restaurant dinners at various spots during my stay. While I like to try new places as often as I can, every year I must have at least two dinners at Passionfish, at the corner of Congress and Lighthouse in Pacific Grove. Let me try to explain why.

One main reason is evident in this photograph:

At first glance, this picture of a glass and a bottle of wine look pretty ordinary. Of course, the stemware is fine quality crystal (fairly common in good restaurants in the area), but it is the label on the bottle that is of most interest. The grape variety, Arneis, is a relatively rare grape in the Piedmont region of northern Italy where it is originally from. Even rarer, this version comes from a California vineyard, and to be honest, I had no idea that anyone had planted this grape anywhere in California. By my standards, this is an unusual wine ($30), but such unusual wines are common on the broad and well-chosen wine list at the restaurant. As someone who grew tired of Chardonnay many years ago and someone who loves infinite variety (which also partly explains my lack of marital success), the list at Passionfish, with its pages and pages of excellent and unusual white and red wine choices, is, for me, as much fun to read as the latest issue of "Funny Times."

What makes the wine list even more special is that Passionfish sells these wines at retail prices, the same price that one would pay for the identical bottle in a wine shop, if one frequented a wine shop good enough to have such an unusual wine. For example, this bottle of Marilyn Remark 2004 Marsanne (another rare grape varietal, especially in California) is on the wine list priced at $30. I saw an identical bottle at a local specialty grocery priced at $31. Another great tasting and unusual white wine is this estate bottled Gruener Veltliner from Schloss Gobelsburg in Austria, another $30 value. The only real problem with the wine list is selecting which one or two bottles to drink.

The last two pictures also illustrate another strength of the restaurant. Soon after being seated, diners are served several warmed pieces of the very best bread that I have eaten in years – if not ever. Accompanied by whipped unsalted butter, each slice is a sheer delight. The warm bread is so fresh that it has that just baked taste and smell. Although not a sourdough, the bread has a thick and supremely crunchy crust that crackles when bitten and contrasts with the soft bready interior, which has a slightly moist, dense fine crumb. The bread’s quality can be seen in the evenness of the tiny air pockets in the bread, no empty bubbles of air in any piece. In my opinion, the San Francisco Bay area and the Monterey Bay area produce the best bread in the entire United States. Nonetheless, the bread at Passionfish stands head and shoulders above any other that I remember. My waking thought the morning after my first meal at Passionfish this year was not about the incredible entrée or the outstanding salad or even the unusual bottle of wine I had consumed the night before. No, I woke up reliving the taste and textures of this wonderful bread.

This next photo, an appetizer of seared ahi accompanied by wasabi slaw ($9), illustrates other reasons for my passion about Passionfish:

My friend Steve has long loved seared ahi and has often ordered this dish at Passionfish. Every time I have had a taste of his nearly raw tuna, I have been impressed by the freshness and quality of the fish. In addition, this dish illustrates how the chef utilizes culinary fusion – often very effectively. In this dish, for example, we have a Japanese influence in the nearly raw tuna, the use of wasabi, and the topping of seaweed salad. But the word "slaw" with its Dutch roots reminds us that various cold salads are part of the American and western European traditions as is the use of tart green apple. Similarly, the menu bristles with terms like ravioli, spaetzle, charmoula, goat cheese, lemongrass, tostadita, medjool, risotto, Kurobuta etc. The kitchen clearly enjoys playing with various flavors and culinary traditions and recognizes no boundaries or borders. Of course, such cooking is risky, but it is also intriguing and challenging.

What is equally impressive about this dish (like many others on the menu) is that it has evolved over the years. If memory serves, the first two or three times that Steve ordered the dish, the tuna was crusted with black pepper and the slaw was julienned jicama lightly coated with a wasabi flavored coleslaw dressing and topped with pea shoots. In last year’s version (as seen in the photo), the ahi was crusted with a fennel seed rub, and the jicama and pea shoots were replaced by julienned green apple topped with seaweed salad. This year, the appetizer was absent from the menu altogether. In other words, the chef is constantly experimenting. He refuses to rest on his laurels, and his menu is constantly morphing. The menu not only changes over the years, but many items change week to week, and most days additional specials are available. One of my local friends suggests that the chef must go home every night thinking about ways to change and improve the food.

The wide range of ingredients and constantly changing dishes also make this restaurant a magnet for those of us who are fascinated with and passionate about food. On my first visit this summer, my meal began with a fried oyster salad with citrus-soy dressed arugula ($8):

This wonderful salad combines the nutty flavor of arugula, the tang of the dressing, and the succulent flavors of cooked oysters, while it contrasts the textures of the greens with the crunchy exterior and the soft, moist, and tender interior of the oysters. As I was taking this photo, a woman seated at the next table asked why I was taking pictures, and I gave my usual answer that I put the pics on my computer, which allows me to savor the meal again and again. She then asked if I was a Chowhound and mentioned that she went to the site often. I confessed I was, and after chatting with her for a minute or two, I went back to enjoying the salad.

Then my entree, sturgeon with Nueske bacon, sweet corn, banana potatoes, & tomato vinaigrette ($20), arrived at the table:

While this dish may look like a busy mess, the balancing of flavors is incredible. Nueske bacon is heavily smoked with applewood, so the equivalent of one or two slices gives the whole plate a smoky flavor which balances perfectly with the sweetness of the corn which itself is balanced with the tang of the tomato vinaigrette, all the flavors centered by the firm waxiness of the banana potato slices and the mildly fishy flavor of the sturgeon. As I was savoring this wonderful concoction, the same woman from the next table leaned over and told me that there was another Chowhound at the next table over who was taking pictures of her food as well. When I went over and introduced myself, it turned out to be tokyoastrogirl (her blog is called Tuna Toast) who had ordered exactly the same meal as I did. Small world – but more evidence of the sort of restaurant Passionfish is.

While this culinary creativity sometimes works so well that it can leave a diner almost breathless with admiration; sometimes it can lead to mistakes (read the various comments, particularly Melanie’s, at this Chowhound post for evidence). Similarly, since the menu is constantly changing, a customer looking for an old favorite may well come away frustrated. I still remember a halibut dish that came with broth containing vegetables and little gnocchi. It was tasty and unusual, and I would like to try it again, but I have never seen it repeated on the menu.

The restaurant has two other failings in my mind. Sometimes, particularly on weekend evenings, Passionfish gets uncomfortably loud. There seems to be little effort at noise abatement as most of the walls and ceilings are hard surfaces. In addition, eating an excellent meal and drinking bottles of very reasonably priced wine certainly fuels conversation. And once the noise level reaches a certain threshold, everyone has to TALK VERY LOUDLY in order to be heard across the table. At this point, all the conversations in the restaurant have to rise to a higher sonic level, and the din becomes deafening.

The second major shortcoming of the restaurant is its view. Many people come to the Monterey Peninsula for the incredible natural beauty of the area, but outside of the beautiful food (and perhaps your attractive companion(s) at the table), a diner’s views at Passionfish are restricted to an office plaza or a Shell station. So I suggest one go walk in the afternoon at Point Lobos for the scenery – and eat that night at Passionfish for the food.

Passionfish, 701 Lighthouse Ave, Pacific Grove CA 93950, (831) 655-3311.

Seattle: Pike Place Market, Piroshky Piroshky, and other stuff…….

July 28, 2007 mmm-yoso European Restaurants, Markets & Grocers, Seattle, Washington, Travel

I readily admit that I am an unabashed fan of that Seattle icon, Pike Place Market. I make a point to visit at least once during every visit to Seattle.

My preferred time to visit this Seattle Icon is in the morning, before the crowds. To me Pike Place Market is almost a living breathing creature, and watching it wake is both relaxing and invigorating at the same time. Yes, a paradox…..

There’s a mild sense of excitement watching Pike Place wake and take it’s first deep breaths of the day.

The variety is quite staggering. From the Hmong flower growers/vendors:

To the wide array of appealing produce:

And of course, the seafood.

I can’t remember the last time I saw Razor Clams for sale…..

There’s always something new, something you’ve never noticed on previous visits. And perhaps you may run into Truman:

According to his "Dad", Truman "helps" with deliveries on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.

There are of course many places to grab a bite as well, and I’m sure everyone has their favorite. At times you just need to follow your nose and it will lead you to some good grinds.

In the past, the Missus has literally spent an hour watching the donut machine at the Daily Dozen Doughnut Company…..

In spite of all the choices, it seems that the scents emanating from this shop always draws me in.

This little shop specializes in…what else Piroshky.

Whether you call them Piroshki, Piroshky, or Pirozhki, these Russian stuffed pastries are hard to resist. There over 30 different versions served, ranging from the more traditional beef and onion, to the "Pacific Northwest version", the smoked salmon. Sometimes making a decision can be quite difficult.

After sampling a good variety over the years, we tend to stick to the vegetarian versions, like the Smoked Mozzarella, Broccoli, and Mushroom($4.25):

The Missus didn’t care for the caraway-sauerkraut flavor of the Sauerkraut, Carrot, Cabbage, and Onion($3.25). But i didn’t mind it at all.

The Potato, Mushroom, and Onion, is another of our favorites, but we were getting full.

We ate as we strolled down the Seattle Harbor Steps, and made our way to Pier 52. Why Pier 52?

Pier 52 is the terminal for Washington State Ferries Bainbridge Island route. A ferry ticket costs $6.70(it has gone up over the years), and I call it the cheapest "tour" in Seattle. During clear days the view is wonderful. Even during overcast days like this, the view was fantastic.

The trip is about 35 minutes each way and the fare is for a round trip.

Of course you can’t miss that other Seattle icon, the Space Needle.

Bainbridge Island is a nice place to wander around a bit if you have a chance. But on this day we needed a nap!

San Diego Brewing Company- great brews and happy hour!

July 26, 2007 Cathy Pubs and Pub Grub, What Cathy Eats!

mmm-yoso is being blogged by Cathy today. Apparently Kirk and Ed have nothing to blog about.

So, I had a meeting in Mission Valley last Thursday that ended at 5 p.m. and could have gone straight up Friars and it turns into Mission Gorge Road and then straight home to Santee, and I suppose would have had to cook dinner. Instead, I used that handy-dandy mobile phone I have and called The Mister and told him to meet me at the San Diego Brewing Company;

They have Happy Hour from 4 to 6 p.m. Monday to Friday. Beer pints are $3 and appetizers are half off, sort of…if you didn’t study math.

Well, that was easy, since I always get a "Brewman’s Plate" as my main course whenever I come here. It is on the appetizer menu, and I suppose you are supposed to share it.

This is the bad photo. You get a loaf o hot sourdough, a Bavarian Beer sausage, Italian turkey sausage, Gouda, pepper jack and cheddar cheese slices, raw vegetables, fresh fruit and a mustard sauce. (Regular price $9.75 Happy Hour charge $4.75)(don’t ask). I like the sausages here and the Gouda and cheddar are great; I just do not understand the concept of pepper jack. The sourdough is very sour and is also something I don’t crave. It is a nice bread though- crispy crust and soft insides. The veggies and fruits are always varied- this day there was watermelon, cantaloupe and another melon. Sometimes you get a whole apple (which goes great with the cheese). The mustard sauce goes nicely with the Bavarian beer sausage and you don’t need anything with the Italian turkey sausage.

The Mister thought we should try the Country Chicken Tenders

(Regular price $6.99, Happy Hour $3.50). Light , crisp breading on 5 very large, juicy pieces of chicken breast. Served with a ranch dipping sauce. A very large portion of food.

The babyback ribs are listed as being a half rack and I did not count the leftover bones, but I really think they gave us more than a half rack. (Regular price $8.94, Happy Hour $4.25) . A really nice tangy BBQ sauce, very juicy, meaty pork ribs.

We thought we should have more vegetables, so in the vein of the County Fair, we chose onion rings! ( Regular $5.79, Happy Hour $2.90) Light beer batter, thick sliced sweet onions. Perfect.

That was our meal…oh, the most expensive item…well, we could not decide on a beer form those available on tap, so we got a "Taster Set".

There happened to be eight beers on tap that night. The samples are at least 3.5 ounces each, maybe 4 ounces. From top (lightest) to closest to camera: -Grantville Gold, 4.9%, light ale with a clean hop finish;- Whatza Witte, 5%, white wheat; – San Diego Amber, 6%, copper ale;- Old Town Nut Brown, 5.4%, dark brown ale with a carmel and roasted nut finish;- Mission Trails Pale Ale, 5.2%, citrus aroma, rye, hint of hops;- El Hefe, hefeweizen;- Concecrator Bock, 7.5% m chewy;- Oatmeal Stout.

This was the most expensive purchase…$6

Yes, so in total, all of this food and drink was $23.06. I am such a cheap date.

San Diego Brewing Company 10450 Friars Road, Suite L San Diego 92120 (619)284-2739

The Revised Rotation

July 25, 2007 mmm-yoso Bakery, Bun Bo Hue, Chinese Restaurants, Japanese Restaurants, Korean Restaurants, Lao Restaurants, Plate Lunch, Salvadoran Restaurants, Vietnamese Restaurants, yoso-silly

I’ve been blessed by blogging. Through our humble little food blog, I’ve gotten to know so many wonderful, kind, and generous people. It’s also great to know that I’m not the only (slightly…) food obsessed person out there. I’m very happy to call Howie, who does the Foodieview, a friend.

Case in point, over the last year (yes, year…) I’ve received a few emails and comment, asking me when I’m going to update "My Rotation". Those would be the restaurants the Missus and I think about when we make plans to eat, whether it’s the two of us, or dinner with friends, or something similar in nature. I had thought that a post was in order, but didn’t quite know how to approach the whole thing. Suddenly it came to me(though it could have been gas….but we’ll never know), I remembered Howie’s post on embedding restaurant maps in posts. I thought it was pretty neat, and Howie was nice enough to demo what mmm-yoso’s map would look like…..it did look like 300 map links stacked on one another….it seemed like I’ve been eating in the same place like a couple of hundred times! Now, I know Howie’s a really busy guy, but I mentioned updating my rotation to Him, and sent him a list of places on our revised rotation, and to my surprise a short itme later I received a response. And there was a map! You can see a more detailed map with info here. So without further ado, here’s Howie’s work:

Pretty cool, huh?

Solunto Bakery in Little Italy- Breakfast and snacks and baked goods

July 24, 2007 Cathy Bakery, Breakfast/Brunch, Sandwiches, What Cathy Eats!

Solunto has closed. It will be missed.

mmm-yoso is being blogged by Cathy today. Kirk is doing something else. Ed is sweltering.

Hi, again. The Mister and I were downtown early on Saturday morning and wanted breakfast. We have a few "regular" spots we like to go to before the crowds (and parking meters) kick into gear, and since I do blog about the foods I eat…here we go!

Solunto Bakery on India Street. Been there forever. They supply the bread to most of the Italian restaurants- in a par baked form- so it is always fresh. We go to the source.

Technically the food area in the back is "Honey Bee Ltd." It is run by the same ladies who work in the bakery. They use the same cash register.

The red menu is the breakfast menu; the middle one is the sandwich and specialties menu and the third, more yellow one is the bakery items price sheet. (Click onto any photo to enlarge)

I got the spinach and cheese two egg omelet ($6.95) It comes with the potatoes and a fresh roll and butter. You can watch the ladies crack the eggs and make the omelet and grab a par-baked Frenchette roll and warm it in the convection oven. (You can buy the par baked frenchettes for 40¢ each or $4.35/dozen).

You can see from this cross section that there is plenty of fresh spinach inside the omelet. The cheese was a mild cheddar. The potatoes are nicely crispy on the outside and flavorful, soft on the inside…olive oil for cooking, Not overly buttery. Of course the Frenchette is excellent. Crispy outside, with a great sesame flavor in every bite.

The Mister saw the calzone in the refrigerator case and asked if we could have one heated up for breakfast…of course we could! ($5.95)

As you can see, it is filled with ham, pepperoni and capicola as well as the nicest, creamiest, freshest ricotta and mozzarella I have had in a long time, surrounded by that wonderful handmade crust. The sauce for dipping was a very nice tomato based one, with a slight amount of garlic and olive oil added. Just right. Tastes so fresh.

The regular coffee here is, meh, and the cappuccino is better with breakfast, but we knew we were heading to the New Downtown Albertson's (it has a Peets inside) and so we just got a regular coffee on this day.

We always get something par baked ( panini are 55¢ each or $5.75/dozen or a demi loaf $1.75), but I didn't take a picture and since it is Tuesday, well, it's gone.

Occasionally, as it says on the menu, they have Sfingi for 25¢ each or 5/$1 and I grab them up when I can…(basically small fried donut holes, made with orange and lemon zest- usually eaten for the Feast of San Guiseppe- and sometimes stuffed with a ricotta mixture if you get it from a Good Italian Home)(The Mister and I had some from this teensy bakery in Naples, still warm, and it brings back good memories to taste the warm orange/lemon flavoring in a lightly fried dough…)

Solunto Bakery and Honey Bee Ltd. 1643 India Street San Diego 92101 (619) 233-0881

Tacos El Rico

July 23, 2007 mmm-yoso Mexican Restaurants, Taco Shops

*** Tacos el Rico is now a location of Tacos el Paisa

I've tried unsuccessfully to eat at Birririeria El Nortenita on Imperial a few times in the last 2 months. Call it bad timing if you will, but the place is always too busy, so I usually just have a meal elsewhere. On a recent trip, the elsewhere was a colorful new Taqueria called Tacos El Rico:

If I recall this used to be Delia's, the Clairemont Drive location of Delia's has closed as well, I'm not sure what happened. One thing is pretty clear, El Rico sure makes good use of the colors red and yellow!

As you can tell from the lively and brightly colored menu, basic taco shop fare is served here. The variety of "meats" is pretty decent, with all usual suspects; Carne Asada, Al Pastor, Lengua, Cabeza, and Tripa, all present and accounted for……… And all served as Tacos, Burritos, Gorditas, or Mulita.

I placed my order, and waited a few minutes, grabbed my tacos, and went to sit outside, under the bright sunlight, and the even brighter red umbrellas.

I had ordered 3 tacos ($1.75 each). From left to right Birria(I was going to get some Birria one way or another!), Cabeza, and Al Pastor.

Please excuse the somewhat unsightly "bloody" tint to the photos. I didn't realize until I downloaded my photos, but the light filtering through the, yep you got it! Red umbrellas gave the photos this strange tint. The tacos were served on double corn tortillas which had a nice flavor, a bit chewy, and not brittle at all. Each taco also had a generous portion of meat as well.

I started with the Al Pastor:

The pork didn't have the caramelized appearance of typical Al Pastor, and was very "wet". I think of this as more of a marinated pork, rather than something spit roasted on the Trompo. The flavor was very mild, with just hints of chili flavor. There was also the problem of the pool of oil at the bottom of the taco, if you look at the photo closely you'll notice it. Not the best Al Pastor I've had.

The Tacos de Cabeza, was more of the solid "chunk" style, rather than the long cooked shredded meat that I enjoy.

This meant that the texture of the meat tended toward a more "waxy" texture. The overall flavor was very mild, not like the condensed beef flavor I enjoy. On the good side, this wasn't oily in the least, and it tasted okay with a touch of the Salsa Roja. As you can tell, there was so much meat, it was falling out of the taco.

And of course, I had to get my Birria.

This was by far the best. The meat had been cooked until soft and moist, than shredded. It had retained some of the "wild" flavor I was looking for, gamey and rich. The onions and cilantro helped to cut through the richness of the meat, and the corn tortilla stood up well to the moist, but not watery meat. This taco made the meal a success….I did get my Birria! Which made me a happy man(call me obsessed – but you know that already…).

The reason I sat outside, was so I could check this out:

Yep, this Taco Truck looks pretty new(where's all the bright red and yellow colors??). Got me wondering where we might be seeing it soon!

I'm not quite sure if I'll be stopping by Tacos El Rico anytime soon, since there are so many choices in the area. But who knows, I may run into that taco truck one day.

Tacos El Rico
2494 Imperial Ave
San Diego, CA 92102

Road Trip: Green Village Restaurant SGV

July 22, 2007 ed fromyuma Chinese Restaurants, Los Angeles County, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!

Yes, this is a road trip, but not Kirk's; instead it's ed from Yuma who just had to get out of the 115 degree desert and into some good food.

The last time I spent an evening looking for a restaurant in the San Gabriel Valley, I was like a little kid who was told he could only pick one from a gigantic box of mysterious chocolates. Complete choice overload. Which one? Which is the best? How can I choose? Smoke must have been pouring out of my ears from total systemic breakdown before I settled on the path of least resistance and had a mediocre meal at a Korean barbecue. Knowing that I would be spending another evening in the valley on my way up to Monterey, I vowed not to let that happen again, so I did what any wise individual, faced with such daunting culinary choices, should do – I asked Kirk to recommend a couple of places and mentioned that maybe a Shanghai style place would be interesting.

"You could try Green Village," he suggested, linking me to a Jonathan Gold article from 2002 and explaining that he himself had not eaten at the restaurant since it relocated many many years ago. "Oh, yeh, then you could also write a post on it for the blog." Now I understood his thinking - I'd feel obligated to write it up in return for the advice, and he'd get another post out of me. OK, that seemed like a fair deal, and it did save me from a serious brain cramp.

When I stopped by to look the place over in the afternoon, I learned that one thing had changed since Gold's review : there was now a young waitperson who could speak English, and in fact, he seemed pleased and amazed that some old pony-tailed white guy would be interested in a meal there. Talking with him made me feel welcome, and looking the menu over made me salivate. Nonetheless there were pages of choices, most of them sounding delicious or at least weird and intriguing.

Being as food obsessed as I am, I spent the rest of the afternoon, after I left the place, pondering my choices (kid with candy box syndrome again). My first thought was to duplicate a couple of Gold's favorites, braised fish tail and the yellow croaker with liver moss (as Gold notes in his later review of Green Village, this second item is now listed in two places on the menu – once under its original name and once as yellow fish with seaweed – somebody must have showed them Gold's original article). But just ordering what Gold had already discussed would be too easy. And what could I say then? "Gold was right," or, "Gold was wrong." If I write the former, I have contributed nothing; if I write the latter, who is going to believe ME?

Therefore, I decided on two different items. First I ordered wine chicken ($5.50):

Serving the chicken in a little cup in this fashion was perfect. It insured that each piece of the chicken was in contact with the complex flavor notes of the marinade. Notice also that the meatiest breast pieces lay across the top of the pile of chicken, while the bonier bits lurked underneath. What outstanding chicken it was. At first taste, the essence of cooked chicken flesh was intense. So often, we mask the flavors of chicken, drenching it in rich or spicy sauces or covering it with spiced breading and frying it. In this dish, on the contrary, the chicken flavor sang out like a rooster at dawn.

I am not implying that the wine sauce with its notes of ginger and hint of salt contributed nothing. In fact, the sauce was the perfect foil to show off the deep chicken flavors. As fast as the chopsticks brought the pieces to my mouth, I devoured them. Left with only the pile of bones, I looked through them, searching (the way one might search for a lost hiker in a forest) for missing slivers of flesh that had evaded my teeth at first. I wanted to taste every molecule I could.

For my main course, I went with the young server's recommendation of a whole fish dish. This fish was not listed on the menu and even the check contained the name only in Chinese characters with no translation, so I will call it Inside-out Fish, for reasons that will become apparent ($18.99). When it arrived at the table, it was truly a thing of culinary beauty and made me smile:

On the other hand, my dining companion for the night, Mr Fish, did not look quite as happy about his situation:

Those of you familiar with Shanghai cuisine may consider a fish prepared in this fashion pretty standard, but I had never seen anything like it. Prior to being deep fried, the fish had been deboned, the fleshy side of each fillet had been deeply scored with a crosshatch pattern, and the fish had been dusted with flour. In the deep fryer, the scored flesh had expanded while the skin did not, and then the fish had been arranged, inside out, with the meat on the outside and the skin hidden within:

Upon first tasting, I was delighted. The frying had added crunch throughout the fillets, but I could still taste the fish. The sauce was beautiful to look at and contained fresh little shrimp, peas, and cubed carrots. Coupled with the complexity of the fish preparation, it was almost a taste bud overload. The flavor of the sauce reminded me of an excellent sweet and sour sauce, making me think that this would be a whole fish dish that might get even Aunt Sadie to like whole fish – no bones, nice crunch, and a pleasant sweet sauce reminiscent of so much of the Chinese food a lot us Anglos (particularly those of us who grew up far away from places like the SGV) considered typical Chinese food.

Nonetheless, I have to admit that Mr Fish was not a perfect dish. As I was eating away, I noticed that occasionally there would be a hint of dusty flour, which I attributed to the fact some of the flour on the skin side of the fish had not been cooked:

Also, as I began the second fillet, the sweetness of the sauce began to cloy. I like candy as much as the next person, but I was approaching sugar overload. I found myself picking at the cheeks and tail of the fish to take a break from the unrelenting sweetness of the dish. Of course, the real problem was not with Mr Fish and his accompanying sauce; it was that I was eating this dish by myself. Had I been feasting with friends, and sharing braised pork, braised fish tail, stir-fried veggies, and yellow croaker with liver moss, the bites of this tasty fish would have provided a nice contrast to the other dishes. As it was, that contrast was lacking.

Overall, however, I liked the restaurant very much. Even though I was the only non-Asian of the 29 diners that evening (and probably the only one not speaking Mandarin), I was treated with respect and friendliness. The menu was full of dishes I wanted to try. I kept wishing that I could instantly clone myself half a dozen times (like in a bad B grade Sci-Fi flick) and create enough other diners for a proper feast; however, with 7 of me sitting around a table, I wouldn't have been able to get a word in edgewise, so maybe that's not such a good idea. Instead, it would be better to come back to Green Village with a group of friends and really explore what the kitchen can accomplish.

Green Village, 250 W. Valley Blvd (second floor), San Gabriel CA, (626) 576-2228.

Plate Lunch Week: Mo’s Island Grinds – Formerly Da’ Kitchen

July 20, 2007 mmm-yoso Local Kine Stuffs in San Diego, Loco Mocos, Plate Lunch

*** Update – Mo is back at Homestyle Hawaiian.

*** Mo's Island Grinds has closed

I was just about to do this post last night….when I encountered Internet connectivity problems. I was left hanging and I realized that I've become used to doing posts, and now that I was unable to post I felt kinda lost…..like "what the heck am I going to do now……"

This post is a few months late. Back in November of last year, Mo told me that they were going through with an amicable split with the Da' Kitchen franchise. Mo showed me the updated banner you see on the right. In December, Mo told me that the name change and all of the paperwork was going to be a long process. He wasn't kidding, I'd drop by every so often and Mo would smile, shake his head, and say, "I hope this is done soon…I hope."

So around April of this year all the paperwork had been completed, and viola, you have Mo's Island Grinds.

The sign on the street still says Da' Kitchen, which I'm sure will be updated soon. Of course, everything from the food, to the people, to the menu is the same.

There have been a few items added to the menu, I'm also pleased that since my first post back in December of '05, combination plates have been added.

Of course all the favorites are still available, like the Korean Chicken($7.95):

This sweet-soy-crunchy-mildly spicy, marinated, and deep fried chicken, along with the accompanying sauce is a winna'. Don't take my word for it, here's the Best of LA(aka BoLA) post. In a way, this one dish symbolizes the plate lunch as "melting pot" cuisine. It is called Korean Chicken, but the flavor is an amalgamation of traditional flavors. The batter seems to be Mochiko Flour based, and the sweet and soy sauce combination tips its hat toward a combination of Teriyaki-Soy Sauce-Bulgogi flavors. The dipping sauce here is very good, in fact the Missus will often eschew the Mac Salad, and just get extra shredded cabbage, and use the sauce as a dressing of sorts.

We've only had one not so stellar plate at Da' Kitchen/Mo's. On one Sunday, when Mo wasn't in house, I ordered the Korean Chicken.

Though the chicken was nice and crunchy, it was very light, and had not been marinated long enough. It was very bland. But of all my visits, this was the only time the Korean Chicken was not up to par.

Nowadays, I often get various combination plates. I usually can't finish them, but leftovers are a great thing, aren't they? Here's a Teri Chicken – Chicken Katsu combo plate($8.95):

I've come to the conclusion that my photos don't do the size of these plates justice. The "two scoop rice" is placed one on top of the other, and there were 4 pieces of well marinated boneless chicken thighs. The teriyaki is on the sweeter side, but I still enjoyed it. I always enjoy the Chicken Katsu.

In the theme of the world on a plate, here's the Kalua Pork-Chicken Katsu Combo plate:

There's the Chicken Katsu(Japanese), the mildly smoky and moist Kalua Pork(Hawaiian), and don't forget the Macaroni Salad(Caucasian – aka Haole). Of course, rice is very much a necessity….to the extent that some of my friends back home love Chili-Spaghetti….on rice!

On each of my last few visits, the lines at Mo's has been fairly long, a very good sign that Jocelyn's and Mo's hard work has paid off. They've done it without advertising, mostly by word of mouth….just like "back home". I've always had very friendly service at Mo's, the food may take a while sometimes, but it is always worth the wait.

Mo's Island Grinds (Formerly Da' Kitchen)
9823 Carroll Canyon Rd.
San Diego, CA 92131

Postscript – I've had some interesting questions regarding Plate Lunches, but there is one question that keeps popping up; "Is plate lunch Hawaiian Food?"

Unlike describing someone from Oregon as an Oregonian, "Locals" consider a Hawaiian to be someone of Hawaiian blood. The rest of us are "Locals". Likewise, for me Hawaiian food are items that are traditionally Hawaiian in nature, such as Poi, Lau Lau, Kalua Pig, etc…. So you can have Hawaiian food on a plate lunch, but a plate lunch is not Hawaiian food per se.

Here's an example of a local style menu.

So go get one of these……

Plate Lunch Week: Da Kine’s Plate Lunches – Mira Mesa

July 18, 2007 mmm-yoso Local Kine Stuffs in San Diego, Plate Lunch

*** As of December 2007, Da Kine’s Mira Mesa has closed

I don’t think it would be fair to do a plate lunch week and not include that San Diego institution Da Kine’s. Nelson Ishii is pretty much the pioneer of plate lunches in San Diego, having started Da Kine’s almost a decade ago. I remember seeing Nelson once at the Da’ Kine’s in PB when I was here for a consulting gig in the late 90’s. I knew it was him because, well, everyone knew him. I said, "hey bruddah, you make a pretty good plate lunch". His response? "Uh…." as he went on his way. After we moved to San Diego in 2001, I noticed that the quality of the food had started to go downhill. And by the time I finally did a post in September of 2005, it seemed that Da Kine’s had hit rock bottom. In fact, about 5 months after that post, I received an email that started with, "Wow, yoso-harsh…..". It was from the manager of the PB Da Kine’s apologizing, and asking me to return. And so I put Da Kine’s back on my "list". But before I had a chance to return, Da’ Kine’s in PB was no more. I felt I needed to keep that promise to return, so I decided on visiting Da Kine’s Mira Mesa location.

It was pretty quiet on the weekend morning in May when I paid Da Kine’s a visit.

In fact the Young Lady behind the counter seemed absolutely bored and going through the motions. So when she asked me what I wanted, I had no problem saying "I like Wop Yo Jaws…." She was not amused…..(BTW, "Wop Yo Jaws" doesn’t meaning anything like what you may think….)

In case you didn’t know, Da Kine’s has named their "mixed plates" somewhat interesting names such as Da’ Bugga, FOB Special, and in this case, the 3 item mixed plate is called "Wop Yo Jaws"($7.95). (You can find the real pidgin meaning here) I guess it’s supposed to be funny and cute, but knowing what these phrases mean, it makes me feel strange uttering them to order a mixed plate.

This is what arrived:

I was pleasantly surprised, take a look at the photos of items I had on my previous visits and compare. It’s like night and day. The Chicken Katsu at Da Kine’s is pounded really thin, creating a greater batter to meat ratio, not something that I really enjoy, but it was fried to perfection. I also like the Ketchup based katsu sauce that Da Kine’s uses. The Grilled Teri Chicken was hot and moist, if a bit under marinated. The Teriyaki Beef was well marinated, and fairly tender. It was a good example of "local-style" Teri Beef which is not overly sweet by nature.

I was impressed with the portion size, having been used to the ever shrinking portions at Da Kine’s in PB, this was a surprise. The Macaroni Salad, as usual was pretty bland, lacking in salt, and in this case too much mayo was used, but it wasn’t too bad.

Overall, this was a satisfying meal….

So still "feeling like one winnah" as I discarded my nearly cleaned plate in the trash, the indifferent young lady, asked me "how was your lunch?" I answered describing my meals at Da Kine’s in PB, and how this compared, and started into a blow by blow description of what I enjoyed about the food, when I noticed the totally blank look on her face….. She really didn’t, or hadn’t wanted an answer to her question, it was the "question asked for which no response is desired", she had probably expected a single yes, or no answer. Yes, I am a food dork. Finally she uttered a single "uh…" As I left I thought, maybe she’s related to Nelson????

Da Kine’s Plate Lunches – Mira Mesa
10606 Camino Ruiz
San Diego, CA 92126
(858) 586-0606