Japan – mmm-yoso

Tokyo – Kizo Ramen

September 17, 2018 mmm-yoso Japan, Japanese Restaurants, Ramen, Tokyo, Kamakura, and the Kantō Region, Travel

It seems that during the course of our visits to Tokyo that we've developed some "traditions" of sorts. Dinner at Suzunari is one of them. And as we had breakfast, we decided to keep anther going.

The breakfast, we were given vouchers from the hotel, was basic and fine. We decided to head on down to Tokyo Station a few hours early; stash our bags in the always convenient lockers, and spend some time shopping, eating, and just enjoy our last few hours in Tokyo. We did manage to do some shopping; buying some gifts for folks back in San Diego.

When it came time to eat, well, that was easy. It was Ramen Street for us……a little habit that I think will become a tradition. On our first visit, it was the ultra-hyper Rokurinsha, on our last visit Oreshiki Jun. What was it be this time around?

Hmmmm…..we picked two and decided to check them out. After peeking into the two places; Kizo won out.

Mainly because the clientele, at least on this day all seemed Japanese; while the places (i.e. Rokurinsha with the huge line) had so many tourists. A big plus was that the specialty at Kizo is Sendai Gyutan Negishio Ramen…….beef tongue – scallion – shio ramen.

And as is the drill; we ordered a couple of other items on the menu and basically shared the ramen….like the gyoza.

Not the best "skins" which were brittle and plastic-ky. The filling was much too salty and a bit on the dry side.

Not the most auspicious start to a meal.

We also ordered the Beef Tongue Crouquette.

Man, the panko breading on this was fantastic; light and so crisp. This was the only light thing about the croquette as the filling was so rich; great beefiness, but perhaps too much of a good thing. A bit over-the-top for us. Wonderful textures though.

Which had us wondering how the ramen was going to be. We shouldn't have worried…..

As you can tell; we ordered extra ajitama, which was serviceable, the yolk decent and definitely not over-cooked. And those slices of beef tongue were heavenly….so tender, so beefy……as only beef tongue can be. The broth was good; not overly salty, it had almost a light garlic-beef-pork flavor to it. The tongue feel was really good, much thicker than it looked as it coated the nice, springy-chewy noodles well. The negi added a bit of pungency and crunch to things, but really wasn't needed in my mind.

And while we didn't have a whole lot of ramen on this trip, this was easily our favorite.

Kizo (Tokyo Station – Ramen Street)
1-9-1 Marunouchi Chiyoda Tokyo

As we left Tokyo Station I thought "well, it's three down; five to go….I wonder what we'll do when we reach eight?" Hmmmm…..let's not dwell on that.

Let's just enjoy the "interesting" and somewhat humorous signs that are posted…..

As with all of our trips to Japan; this one was chock full of memories….and Sakura!

Thanks for stopping by!

Tokyo – Sansei Yotsuya

September 15, 2018 mmm-yoso Japan, Japanese Restaurants, Tokyo, Kamakura, and the Kantō Region

As with most things in Japan; we got back to our hotel efficiently. We were a bit tired from the days activities and after a short nap; we decided to stay in the neighborhood for dinner. The Missus was still in "Yakiniku mode" and we had asked Chef Murata (or at least Reiko had) for a nearby recommendation.

He recommended a place named Sansei…….which caught me by surprise, since I'm a Sansei.

The restaurant is located right on the main street; in the lower level of one of the business buildings lining Shinjuku-dori.

The restaurant it self is fairly small, but comfortable. We were seated at the bar and given menus, which the Missus was able to start translating. When the young lady heard us talking we were given English menus, but by that time we were ready to order.

But first, a nama biiru (draft beer), which was nice and refreshing. The Missus ordered some kind of ginseng beer, maekju, which arrived on ice.

A brazier was delivered to the bar; with lit charcoal in it. We were wondering if we'd end up smelling like grilled meat; but a panel was opened up on the bar which did a great job sucking out the charcoal smoke.

We weren't super hungry, so here's what we ended up ordering.

Mushrooms, which came drizzled with gochujang.

I enjoyed the gyutan, the best. It came sliced a bit thicker than usual, but with the wonderful marbling it grilled up nicely. Crisp edges, toothsome centers, and really absorbed the smokiness of the charcoal real well.

The Missus had fallen in love with horumon during a previous visit to Tokyo, so of course we just had to order the offal combination.

The horumon arrived with a typical slightly sweet-salty marinade of sorts. It was bit on the tough side; even for intestines. The Missus enjoyed the liver, never a favorite of mine.

Overall, we enjoyed the yakiniku we had earlier in the trip at Horumon Dedesuke mmore. But this wasn't bad. Plus, it was rather close to our hotel.

Sansei Yotsuyahonten
3-3, Yotsuya, Shinjuku-ku
Tokyo, 160-0004

I ended the evening like I often do when on vacation; with a couple of "cold ones".

The Suiyoubi No Neko; literally "Wednesday Cat" was a fairly enjoyable Belgian White, very "wheaty", with hints of orange and clove.

This time around; the Missus joined me, having some Sparkling Sake and I finished off with a Hitachino.

And some yuba snacks we got in Nikko….which we actually enjoyed much more than the actual yuba we ate for lunch!

We just relaxed and enjoyed our last evening in Japan.

It had gone by so fast……

Nikko – Toshogu Shrine, Lunch at Yasai Cafe Meguri, and the “Venus of Gyoza” at Utsunomiya Station

September 14, 2018 mmm-yoso Japan, Japanese Restaurants, Tokyo, Kamakura, and the Kantō Region, Travel

We had made the walk up from the train station and into Nikko National Park. We walked up the stone stairs past the walls gilded with moss. It was a lot to take in. On a misty day like this was; walking past moss covered stone lanterns, there is a feeling you get, mystery….wonder….like you've wandered onto a set of some movie…..

We were only spending the day in Nikko, so other than the Shinkyo Bridge, our main focus was on visiting Toshogu Shrine where Tokugawa Ieyasu, Shogun and founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate which ruled Japan for over 250 years, is supposed to be buried.

There is quite a bit to see here. Among my favorites were the Sanjinku, the Three Sacred Storehouses. Which were lined with gold leaf……hard to believe these were storehouses.

My favorite feature were the carvings of elephants that adorn the Kamijinko (Upper Sacred Storehouse), which look like they came out of some Sci-fi comic.

These are called the Sozonozo Elephants (“imagined elephants”), as the artist who carved these, Kano Tanyu had never seen an elephant. Working from descriptions of the beasts he created this interpretation of what he "imagined" elephants looked like.

Right across from these structures is the Shinkyusha (the "Sacred Stable").

Notice all the folks taking photos here. It's because of the eight panels of monkeys lining the structure. The monkeys are depicting the lives of humans.

Especially popular is the Sanzaru ("Three Wise Monkeys").

You know the saying, right? "Hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil." Which I've been told are also three of the principles of Tendai Buddhism.

And then it was past the gate and up the stairs to the Yomeimon Gate.

Man, there was a lot to see here…..

From here 200 stone steps leads you up to Ieyasu Tokugawa's Tomb.

Man, that mist sure added to the atmosphere……

After this we headed back down past all the other visitors; even some four legged ones.

Half the fun was people watching…….I guess the hill was kind of steep for some as they seemed to need a little boost.

We walked down the path to Futarasan Shrine…where the fog was really thick. Along with being the oldest shrine in Nikko, the area around the shrine is known for something else.

There is a tree near the gate of the shrine where a cedar and oak have joined together. This has come to be known as the matchmaking tree; you leave an offering for good luck in your relationship.

At this point, the Missus and I determined that it was a good time to head on back down the street and grab some lunch. Our philosophy when we travel is always to see the one or two things that are important to us; the rest is gravy. We always treat a destination as if we'll be returning someday.

We headed back down the street in the direction of the train station. Along the way; we saw this building.

Which definitely was not a "art and curios" shop as folks were eating inside. A quick search on Google Maps determined that this was Yasai Café Meguri, a vegan/organic restaurant. I looked at some of the photos and saw that the place served yuba bean curd; which I really enjoy. Plus, yuba is a specialty of Nikko.

So we decided to eat here. We entered, were warmly greeted, and led to our seats……which made the Missus crack up. It was my kryptonite……..floor seating….

I've mentioned having to sit using tatami style seating before, my fear of having my legs fall asleep then trying to stand and destroying half a restaurant. Oh, the lovely noise of my joints snapping and popping as I sat on the floor.

Anyway, both the Missus and I got the Yuba Bean Curd Special.

We really didn't find this particularly to our taste. Everything was cold; including the rice under the yuba. The food was rather bland; the bean curd skin crunchy, but somewhat water-logged.

The thing we enjoyed the most about the dish was the green salad; the fresh, crisp bitter greens.

Probably just not our kind of thing.

Yasai Cafe Meguri
909-1 Nakahatsuishimachi
Nikko 321-140, Tochigi Prefecture

We made our way back to the JR Station. Got on our train and headed back to Tokyo. We did have an hour layover in Utsunomiya where I decided to search for a statue I'd read about; the Venus of Gyoza.

Walking just outside the station we found her, in all her beauty ummm creepieness uniqueness, a woman creature emerging out of a gyoza. The "Venus of Gyoza". After all, Utsonomiya is considered the "capital of gyoza" in Japan. You can read about it in this article. Over the years; I've started to include one odd interesting place during our travels. And after all; this is still a food blog….and this has something to do with food, right?

The Missus was kind enough to humor me. Then we went back into the station and did some shopping (looking for local snacks) before our train arrived. On time as usual; after all, this was Japan!

Thanks for reading!

Tokyo – Breakfast and We’re Off to Nikko

July 27, 2018 mmm-yoso Breakfast/Brunch, Japan, Tokyo, Kamakura, and the Kantō Region, Travel

After another wonderful dinner at our favorite restaurant, we slept well, but got up quite early on this Saturday morning. You see, the Missus had always wanted to visit Nikko, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; known for it's ornate shrines lying within green, woody, hillsides. A combination of nature and a celebration of the glory of the Edo period. It is about this place that Ieyasu Tokugawa is quoted as saying "Build a small shrine in Nikko and enshrine me as the God. I will be the guardian of peace keeping in Japan." In fact; his mausoleum is located in the lavish, opulent, Tōshōgū Shrine.

But first, we needed sustenance. We were given breakfast vouchers for the coffee shop located next to the hotel at street level. It was obviously a 24 hour coffee shop as we noticed quite a few young men who had missed the last train the night before.

We'd been told stories by friends in Japan about missing the last train and having to stay in either a Karaoke room, the local Mickey D's, or coffee shops. Many of which will let you sleep so long you purchase something.

Breakfast was simple, but enough for us.

Having JR Passes, we caught the train from Yotsuya to Tokyo Station, then the Shinkansen to Utsunomiya, where we changed to the JR Nikko line. It took about 2 hours overall, but as is typical for train travel in Japan, the trip was seamless.

Of course, part of the fun was people watching, as folks have their own unique way of expressing themselves in Japan.

And, one must not forget the entertaining signs….the messages are pretty loud and clear, regardless of the language.

We had a 30 minute layover in Utsunomiya, where we did some shopping and bought a few gifts.

Then it was the 49 minute train ride to Nikko.

It would be drizzly and overcast during our entire time in Nikko, and yet, it just seemed to add a certain "air" to things.

We'd been sitting on various trains getting to Nikko, so of course the Missus decided that instead of taking the bus ride up to the temple area; we should walk. I was in total agreement since there was much to see along the way.

As you approach the temple area there are more and more shops. I thought this phone booth was quite interesting.

Just a block away is the iconic Shinkyo Bridge.

Which you see in thousand of photographs. It is indeed beautiful.

It is said that this is the spot where the monk Shodo Shonin, who was one of the founders of Nikko was carried across the river on the backs of two serpents.

Right across the street is the entrance to Nikko's shrines and temples.

Up the stairs bordered by moss covered stones you'll run into a statue of Shodo Shonin himself.

Along the way you'll pass walls that are covered with moss…….that may have been here for hundreds of years. It sure does add "atmosphere"……

I think I'll stop for now…..more to come in the next post……

Here's one last look at the Shinkyo Bridge.

Thanks for dropping by!

Clearing Out the Memory Card – Still Our Favorite Restaurant. Suzunari (Tokyo)

July 11, 2018 mmm-yoso Fine Dining, Japan, Japanese Restaurants, Memorable Meals, Tokyo, Kamakura, and the Kantō Region

While we were a bit sad to leave Kyoto, which is one of Missus's favorite cities. We were excited to be back in Tokyo.

Beyond the rather overwhelming, sensory overload of the city; we loved the various neighborhoods, the order, the streets packed with wonderful surprises at every turn. We'd gotten used to the rhythm of this city of over 13 million people.

The Missus had gotten really fond of the Yotsuya neighborhood, which is where we decided to stay on our return to Tokyo. There's something less touristy and more "real" about this neighborhood; at least to us. And while we have yet to find Hattori Hanzo's (the real one) grave or have yet to see obake in the neighborhood, we love walking the back streets and exploring.

Plus, the view from our hotel wasn't too shabby at all.

Another reason for staying in the neighborhood; is that our favorite restaurant, perhaps in the world, resides down one of the narrow streets of Arakicho. Yes, even after visiting Osteria Francescana on our recent trip to Italy; or Azurmendi, Disfrutar, David Toutain, Alliance (post coming up), or any number of other places, even from my pre-blogging days (The French Laundry/Gary Danko, etc). Suzunari remains our favorite.

Honest, seasonal, perfectly prepared Kaiseki for non-tourists……it just resonates with us. Business must be good, Chef Murata now has two assistants. And like our previous meal; our good friend Reiko joined us. Once we told her we'd be returning to Tokyo and Suzunari, she was quite excited, and rightfully so.

I'll spare you the 10,000 words here; since I've posted on this place several times before.

From the stuffed sakura leaves to the Hassun….everything tasted as good as….and even better than, it looked.

The Missus still calls the simple, broiled rockfish (kinki) we had on this evening, the most perfect fish in terms of texture She has ever had.

I loved the abalone on bamboo shoots….and the abalone liver even more!

Reiko is allergic to shellfish and some forms of seafood; so instead of the usual kamameshi; they made us a version with takenoko (bamboo shoots), and provided lovely, savory dried shrimp for the Missus and I.

There's something about this place that just resonates with us.

We gotta get back to Japan (and Suzunari) again soon.

Suzunari
7-9 Arakicho, Shinjuku-ku
Tokyo

Returning to the room; I opened a "cold one".

And looked off into the night……

Thinking about how blessed we are to able to travel as much as we do…..and to be able to say; "yes, our favorite restaurant is in Tokyo."

Thanks for stopping by!

Kyoto – Shirakawa-Minami Dori and Lunch at Ichiran Ramen

June 19, 2018 mmm-yoso Japan, Japanese Restaurants, Kyoto, Ramen

Do an online search on "most beautiful street in Kyoto" and Shirakawa-Minami Dori will appear. And while we've been down this street several times before, the Missus was excited to see it during Cherry Blossom season. I gotta say; even on an overcast day, it was indeed quite striking.

In fact, the drizzle may have kept folks away and even added some "atmosphere" to our visit.

Those willow trees sure add character to the photos as well.

It is, without a doubt, one of the more beautiful streets that I've had a pleasure to see, that's for sure.

Our Shinkansen was leaving for Tokyo at around 1 pm, so we'd have to head out before noon. So I thought we'd go and grab some morning ramen before freshening up and heading to Kyoto Station. The place I had in mind, Ichiran, is highly regarded with over 60 locations through-out Japan, a location in New York with crazy wait times….shades of Ippudo….at least that was my hope. The location in Kyoto is a 24 hour operation, which suited us just fine.

The drill here was initially typical….the good old ticket machine.

For us, it was tonkotsu of course. The tables are more like cubicles, with your own personal water dispenser, a divider, if you choose to need it, and a sheet of paper where you can further define your preference…be it richness (medium), flavor (medium), garlic (a little), green onions (of course), chasu (are you kiddin' me?), red sauce (1/2 portion), and noodle texture (extra firm).

The Missus and I basically got the same thing; except She got the macha dessert. And of course we "needed" to have an egg added.

Soon enough our ramen arrived and I quickly noticed that something was amiss. The bowls felt almost cold to the touch.

And that was a bad start to perhaps the worst ramen we've had in Japan.

First off, the hottest thing in the bowl were the noodles; which were slightly over-cooked, in other words, not "extra-firm". The broth was just past lukewarm and started to separate as it hit the table. It was very bitter, salty, and rather than being rich, because of the temp, quite greasy.

Neither the chili paste, nor the garlic could help this.

The boiled egg was beautifully cooked, but ice cold, as was the chasu, which was too lean and on the tough side……which would have been okay, but cold pork in a lukewarm broth? That's not good eats.

And while the Missus loved Her dessert, it didn't make up for the lousy ramen.

There was a Japanese couple sitting next to me….they kept saying things to each other during the meal. I think they were rather unhappy as well. Look what they left behind. The broth and noodles…..

I'd read so much about how great the ramen is at Ichiran. And maybe it is fantastic. But when you have poor quality control……….

Ichiran Kyoto
598 Uraderacho Higashiiru Takoyakushidori Nakagyo-ku
Kyoto, Japan

Oh well, nothing ventured, nothing gained, right?

We got back to the apartment, packed, and made our way to Kyoto Station. We shared a bento on our way back to Tokyo.

Not too much mind you….we had reservations at one of our favorite restaurants for dinner!

Kyoto – Gion Yuki

June 17, 2018 mmm-yoso Japan, Japanese Restaurants, Kyoto, Memorable Meals, Travel

While it seems that the Missus used this trip to chase Sakura, I had noticed something quite interesting. She had developed a fondness for Izakayas. As such, She really wanted to check out an Izakaya on our last evening in Kyoto. Looking through various sources; She decided that we should go to Yuki for dinner. Staying in Higashiyama meant a nice little walk to the Gion, We were shocked to that there was a line twenty minutes before opening. I sent the Missus away to explore while I stood in line and checked my email and such.

The Missus returned right before opening and we were slowly ushered in. The place is rather tiny, rustic, and the folks quite friendly. The crowd was all Japanese and we kind of had them fooled until they started talking to us!

We were immediately handed an English menu; though the Missus could read much of the items in Kanji.

Gion Yuki is owned by Okamura Honke Brewery, located in neighboring Shiga Prefecture. So what to drink? Well, sake of course! We started with a nice, dry Junmai Daiginjyo, moving to sweeter lighter Junmai, even trying the Shin Syu.

Food was an interesting matter. Looking at the English menu; I knew it was incomplete. Looking at the Pinterest/Instagram photos on the Missus's phone, I quickly picked out something the Missus and I love. Shirako!

We ordered both versions of Shirako.

The Shirako Ponzu might have been our favorite dish of the trip. Creamy, with a slight oceany- sweetness, the milt (a nice way of saying cod sperm sack), was fantastic. It went so well with the tangy, sour, and slightly salty ponzu sauce. The green onions were surprisingly pungent; but it was the intense flowery-anise tones of the shiso blossoms that really got our attention. Wonderful textures – fantastic taste.

The grilled version, just couldn't keep up in terms of flavor as it was slightly fishy and fairly bland. It really needed that salt and lime.

The Kamo – duck breast was nicely done. The skin was slightly crisp; the rubbery subcutaneous fat had been rendered off, leaving a nice layer of fat, and the meat had a nice, slightly chewy texture.

The flavor of the duck was fairly intense in terms of gaminess, which is how we enjoy it anyway.

We had noticed that most of the folks eating here were having fried stuffs. So we ordered the Onion Kakiage.

Crisp, light, the frying had brought out the sweetness of the onions. I can see why folks love the fried food here.

The eggplant dengaku; we tried two versions. The darker, richer version was our favorite.

The flavors were quite complex and the scallions gave the dish an overall "zip".

We finished (well almost as we ordered more shirako) was razor clams in broth.

The dashi based broth was light but tasty; the razor clams were surprisingly tender and sweet.

And here's where the fun begins. A group of 4 men and 1 woman gets seated. Seems like several of the group and the woman are German, as we overheard the woman telling one of the gentlemen that she would come here when visiting Kyoto while working for the German Consulate in Osaka.

It was fun watching the salarymen, now quite friendly and helpful after a couple of rounds of sake, try and help these folks order and make suggestions.

Even more funny as none of the salarymen spoke any English! An array of pantomimes, hand gestures….you name it.

Meanwhile, one of the men, the super tall one was walking around the bar checking out what folks were eating. He had heard the Missus and I speak English. We were eating our second bowl of Shirako Ponzu. He smiled and asked, "sir….what are you eating" while pointing to the quivering white masses in our bowl. Passing him the bowl with two hands I told him; "I will tell you, after you try it." He had a taste and his face lit up. "It is good". I said "this is cod sperm sacks". He stood up his full six feet plus, raised his hand, and asked one of the guys behind the counter, "sir….sir…may we have TWO BOWLS of SPERM please?" No one else except his party and the two of us understood what he was saying…..but man, we were rolling.

I now have a new wrinkle for my "a guy walks into a bar….." joke.

Gion Yuki
111-1 Tominagacho, Higashi-ku, Okamura Bldg.1F
Kyoto 605-0078, Kyoto Prefecture, Japan

There was still a line of folks waiting outside as we left.

We took the long way back to the apartment, just taking in the city.

Kyoto is beautiful anytime of the day. No wonder it's one of the Missus's favorite cities to visit.

Kyoto – The Keage Incline, the Philosopher’s Path, and Kogashi (“burned”) Ramen at Gogyo

April 29, 2018 mmm-yoso Japan, Japanese Restaurants, Kyoto, Ramen, Travel

Based on what we saw during the previous afternoon and evening, the Missus decided that we should head back to the Philosopher's Walk, something we did on a previous visit. This time, we decided to do it from the South side.

So we headed off. While there was the possibility of rain in the forecast, it was a very nice morning.

We walked along Lake Biwa Canal, intending to cross over at the intersection near Lake Biwa Museum.

That's where we came across this interesting statue. I'm not sure what it is….all I was able to come up with is something along he lines of "statue of Huge Shine".

The other neat thing we saw were people walking below street level, along the pretty cherry blossoms.

This is the Keage incline. According to what I read, this was once a rail line which was used to carry goods to both channels. These days it's lined with cherry blossom trees. Which make for a nice photo-op. Especially for the folks taking wedding pictures….in the bottom right of the photo below.

From there, it was an easy walk to Nanzenji temple complex. You can't miss the large Sanmon; the main gate.

We didn't spend a whole lot of time here……I'm sure we'll return in the future…..

We did take a few minutes to take a peek at what I believe is Chou Shouin Temple.

A few minutes later we passed Eikando Temple…..

It was early and the temple wasn't yet open. Plus, the Missus was determined to get to the Philosopher's Path.

And a turn or two later….we were there.

There are quite a few….well interesting, but somewhat eccentric folks in Japan…..

Like this Cat Lady giving this feline a "massage"….you could the purring yards away.

Notice that colored cloth to the right of the woman?

Well, it was this.

Just when I think I've seen it all……

Of course the Sakura were beautiful.

The Missus even bought a cup from this lovely ceramic shop.

Everytime She uses it; She's reminded of the Sakura and Kyoto.

Man, check out all the waiting taxis at the North end of the Philosopher's Path.

"We" had decided that I needed more exercise. So we walked all the way back to the Nishiki Market area.

For lunch I had a ramen place on my radar, Gogyo Ramen, which specialized in "kogashi"……translated to "burnt" ramen. In this case, lard is heated, then ignited, giving the broth a deep black hue. And while it seemed like a gimmick, the parent company was Ippudo, which might be my favorite ramen chain in Japan. And this shop was just two blocks from the Ippudo shop in Kyoto.

We got there about 15 minutes before opening and there was already a line.

Which meant that once the doors opened, the place was instantly full.

Gogyo's signature "burnt" shoyu broth starts with a standard broth, then a few ladles of lard is put into a wok and is heated to 300 degrees Celsius….it basically ignites. This is tipped into the bowl and you get the deep, dark, black, soup.

As you can see, we ordered an extra ajitama for our bowl. The egg was very nicely done, the yolk the perfect golden orb, but ice cold. The pork was dry and also cold. The noodles were over-cooked and lacked a nice al dente pull. The broth was really thick and obviously due to the scortched lard pretty oily….but it was super hot, which kept it from getting too greasy. There's a mild bitter-smokiness and bitterness, to the broth and it wasn't overly salty. We enjoyed the broth, but everything else was average to below average in execution.

The Missus got the Kyoto Pork Bowl combination, which She enjoyed.

It looked pretty bland, but I had a taste and the pork was fairly moist, the soy-mirin-sake flavoring was nicely balanced.

Though, to be honest, I was focused on the ramen. And, while it was fun trying this, I don't think we'll be back.

Service was excellent. The space is quite large for a typical ramen shop in Japan.

Gogyo
452 Jumonji-cho
Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto Prefecture, Japan

Even though this was our third time in Kyoto; things seemed to be different. Folks were walking around with smiles on their faces. There seemed to be levity in the air.

And walking back to the apartment, I found myself smiling at certain things I saw…..

Perhaps the Sakura does have a certain magic to it?

Kyoto – Kinkaku-ji, Hirano Jinja, and a Revisit to Torito

April 27, 2018 mmm-yoso Japan, Japanese Restaurants, Kyoto, Travel

As much as we enjoyed Kanazawa, the Missus was excited to be heading to one of cities She feels right at home in; Kyoto. She was also interested to see if the Sakura Forecast was right. We were either too early or too late at all the other cities so far, but were supposedly getting to Kyoto at the perfect time.

We don't go crazy seeing stuff when on vacation. We just have a list of what we want to accomplish and if we have time for other things….well, we go for it. We act like we'll return someday and in Kyoto's case, it's lucky visit number three.

The one place on the list for the Missus this time around was Kinkakuji. Originally the home of Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. Upon his death in 1408, the property was turned into a Zen Buddhist temple according to his wishes.

We got off at Kyoto Station, stored our bags and caught the bus up to the area. The only reason we'd never visited before was that the temple wasn't on any of the train lines. Well, if the Missus has Her way; I don't think we'll ever catch the bus in Kyoto again….it was stuffy, crowded, and She just wasn't pleased.

But of course, we got to see this.

It was quite stunning to say the least. I'm sure all the other folks thought so too.

This structure was actually rebuilt in 1955. You see, on July 2, 1950, a novice monk named Yoken Hayashi burned down the temple, then tried to commit suicide. He was tried and convicted, sentenced to seven years in prison, but was eventually released due to mental illness. One of Yukio Mishima's most popular novels, The Temple of the Golden Pavillion is based on these events.

There are more interesting facts about the temple here.

We strolled around the gardens taking in the sights, like the White Snake Pagoda.

Eventually, we headed back out. Because we weren't catching the bus back to Kyoto station, we headed down Nishioji Dori, stopping for a cup of coffee, and window shopping until we noticed this.

Looking at the signs, I figured out this is Hirano Shrine and it seemed like they were having some kind of fair/festival so we decided to check things out.

And while folks were having a great time…….with those reserved sitting areas….

Or with folks who did their own thing…..

It was the cherry blossoms that were the focus of attention.

It was getting close to check-in time at the apartment we were staying at. So we walked on down to Emmachi Station for the short ride to Kyoto Station, then onward to Higashiyama.

I love the signs in Japan…..

We got in, had some time to freshen up and headed out the door to dinner. One of the Missus's coworkers was in Kyoto at the same time. She loves yakitori, so we met her at Torito. I've posted on Torito before, plus, this was more of a social outing, so I'll just do photos this time around.

The young lady did kind of freak out at the tori tataki…..but she did try it.

And even tried some items we hadn't had before.

We did a pretty good job overall…..

The Missus ordered Her favorite "shime", the "finishing dish", the chicken bone broth with meatballs.

I got the lovely, nutty, slightly smokey, delicious yaki onigiri….

And all was good in the world……

Torito
9-5 Higashi Marutamachi
Sakyo-ku, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture, Japan

We took a nice walk after dinner……

And it sure did look like our timing was right with regards to the sakura.

But we'd be confirming that in the morning!

Thanks for stopping by!

Kanazawa – Japanese Breakfast and we’re on our way…..

April 20, 2018 mmm-yoso Breakfast/Brunch, Japan, Japanese Restaurants, Kanazawa and Ishikawa Prefecture, Travel

Just a quick post tonight. I was wondering if should have just included this in a combined post. But we'd enjoyed Kanazawa so much and of course those that know me understand how much "Japanese Breakfasts" have special place in my heart. And the breakfast we had the previous day at the Hotel Nikko was something to behold. During our travels to Japan, the Missus has also developed and affinity for it as well.