Everyone likes a good story, one full of intrigue, right? So how about a story of riches, a far away land, some mystery, and with Mom’s love thrown in to tie it all together? Well, let’s give it a whirl, shall we?
There I was, minding my own business…..I know, I know, you’ve heard that one before. But really, there I was minding my own business on a recent Saturday night. As I left Nijiya Market, groceries in tow…..yes, such is the glamorous life I lead, grocery shopping on a Saturday night. Leaving Nijiya, I noticed that the space previously occupied by Yakitori K-1, was lit up, and as I peered through the window, the place was packed.
There was not much to identify the place, except for a sign of "specials", and several laminated photos with wording in Japanese. I was immediately hooked, but I really wanted to do a bit of research before stepping through that door. Questions danced through my head; "what kind of place would open up, flying way below the radar?" "No signs in English, what would that mean?" "Why haven’t I heard of this place before?" Hence the mystery……put in simple terms, what the heck was this place? I needed to know more….so what would a good Private Eye do? Well, I started interviewing people. From 2 different cashiers at Nijiya, I learned a bit. They weren’t quite sure how to explain the type of restaurant in English. Until it hit home; when I mentioned the term "Kozara Ryori", I was met with approving nods. Both of the women had never been to the restaurant, and one of them said; "I think it might be the most expensive in San Diego!" And then She whispered to me, "when you go, come back and tell me about it." For those who have never heard of Kozara Ryori dining, the term "Kozara" refers to the little plates that are used. So the term Kozara Ryori, is used for restaurants that serve "little plates"…..sort of Tapas, Japanese style. (No, Izakaya is NOT a term used for Japanese little dishes). And from another source, I was told that the Owner was a rich (the riches) Japanese Businessman, who was unhappy with the Japanese food in San Diego, and decided to find and hire a Chef from Japan (the far away land). Wanting this restaurant to be his own little semi-private dining club, but also needing to make enough to keep it afloat, the place opened with no fanfare, and the sign still read "Yakitori K-1". I’m not sure if this is all true, but it makes for a heck of a story…..
Having a better understanding of the task in front of me, I knew I was out of my depth. I needed some help, an individual with deep pockets, and an even deeper stomach. There was only one man for the job, my Urasawa Partner in Crime. The man, the myth, the appetite, Captain Jack. Jack, as always, was up for anything, and met me for dinner, at the restaurant whose sign still read "Yakitori K-1"
We arrived right at opening, 530pm, so that we could deal with possible complications. Places are less crowded at that hour. As we approached, I really took a detailed look at the sign of specials.
No, I don’t read Japanese; but I quickly noticed the prices….hmmmm….everything under $5.25. Looks like it won’t be too bad. I’ll have to tell the lady at Nijiya……
The restaurant is elegant, in the simple, and what Captain Jack calls "austere", Japanese way. As we sat at the "bar", we quickly noticed the specials are lined up around the bar in large bowls.
And there is an English version of the menu….even though there are several other specials in Japanese, you’ll have no problem maneuvering here. The restaurant itself is quite small, and the fairly large menu consists of appetizers, salads, side dishes, grilled items, and the inevitable "closing dishes" (i.e. soup, soba, and udon). The prices are quite in line with other places…..
As I looked over the bowls of specials, a smile appeared on my face. Most of the items were homestyle dishes, many of which I grew up eating, and still make from time to time in my own mediocre way. And so I started ordering, and really appreciated the wonderful service that Nanase provided….She actually put up with my very bad Sansei pronunciations of the dishes.
We started with some simmered Satoimo Nimono (simmered Japanese taro):
Oh man, memories of my childhood. Nicely simmered to a perfect moist-starchiness, in a mild dashi-based broth. This was, at least for me, quite nice.
Kabocha Nimono, simmered "winter squash" also known as "Kabocha Squash" and "Japanese Pumpkin".
I dare not even attempt to cook my Kabocha to this level…it would never hold shape. Melt in your mouth, but maybe a bit too soft for me. Wonderful flavor, the mild sweetness accented by the balanced dashi.
The Daikon and Tuna Salad:
The only real clunker of the night…ugh….canned tuna…mayo…belongs at the buffet line at Todai.
Having tasted the Kabocha and Satoimo, something told me that the Miso Nasubi(Eggplant) might be pretty good.
I really enjoyed this. The miso was used with a very restrained hand, there was the hint of miso in every bite, but you could still taste the eggplant. The eggplant was simmered to perfection, just enough melt in your mouth goodness, without a hint of bitterness. A very nice home-style dish, and my favorite of the "specials".
For our salad; we ordered this:
It’s the Gobo Salad ($5.25). I was a bit surprised at the portion size. The Gobo (burdock root) had been shaved and deep fried. The Gobo and the Mizuna was tied together with a Sesame-Vinaigrette, which added a nice tart-sweetness, and the wonderful earthiness of the Gobo was balanced out with the mild bitterness of the Mizuna. This was possibly my favorite dish of the night.
Would you believe that we had just gotten started? I’m bushed, so you’ll have to wait for part 2 of this…..
Oh…yes, what about "Mom"?
Just read the little page to the right. There are little signs around the place, signed, "Yours Sincerely, Mom." And who doesn’t love Mom? So how about adding this to the little story. A rich Japanese Businessman, misses his Mom’s home cooking, and the comfort food of home. He hires a Chef from Japan to recreate those seasonal dishes he loves, and quietly opens a restaurant……. Could it be true??? I dunno……..
Wa Dining Okan
3860 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111
Hours:
Mon – Wed 530-11pm
Thurs – Sat 530pm – 12am
Sun 430pm – 9pm
Part 2 can be found here.