**** Sadly Lucky Wong passed away at the end of 2024
One day, while stopped at the traffic light at the intersection of Grim and University, I happened to glance at down Grim and saw a sign.
And did a double take……did I really see what I thought I did? I made a turn down 30th and back up North Park Way….and ok….."Phenix", not the word I thought it was, which kinda sounds like Phenix(not Phoenix), but is a part of the male anatomy. I noticed the shop was closed, the sign said the hours were 715 to Noon, but it was only 11am! So I figured that this was one of those wonderful little hole-in-the-wall places like Ray's Cafe, which used to be on the corner of Smith and Beretania in Honolulu. They used to have a wonderful butcher paper sign on the door, on which was written, "when the door open we open, when the door closed we closed". Simplicity, practicality, and common sense all wrapped up in one phrase.
Looking at the menu, filled with straight-forward breakfast items, I was struck by the prices. The most expensive offering was $4.30! The Denver Omelette with Cheese. How could this place exist? I knew I had to check it out. So on a recent morning, I arrived to find the place open, and entered through the red door…..and down the rabbit hole.
And entered what looked like something that was part diner meets Big Trouble in Little China. Some back alley Chinatown diner.
A strange mix of "stuff" that for me, was a charming, just North of tacky, kitschy collection of almost every type of stereotypical, campy, 1960's-1970's Chinese decoration and faux art. A somewhat bizarre collection of thingamajiggies, whatchamacallits, with some whosamawhatsits thrown in.
Which along with the singing bass, the "songbirds of America" clocks, and the photo of Arnold Schwarzenegger from his bodybuilding days, made me wonder what evil genius put together this collection.
Which leads us to Lucky, the one man show who runs the place. Lucky does everything, takes your order, cooks your food, runs the register, and buses the counter. Lucky also gives out free health tips, as only a curmudgeonly, Chinese grandfather could. Like when I asked about my toast without butter; "are you a health nut? You gonna be old and look like me one day, do you want to stay that way forever?"
So of course I got my toast "buttered"(or margerined). When a pair of older ladies came in, Lucky asked them if they wanted some coffee. When one of the women declined, Lucky said; "yes, you too young for coffee, it will stunt your growth!" Lucky for me, the toast was not as dry as his wit.
I ordered a simple 2 eggs over easy, and a hamburger patty($3.60), which came with the afore mentioned toast, and some perfectly griddled hash browns:
Everything was done just as you would expect a veteran of so many years of cooking(I was told since the mid-70's) would do. Eggs were nice and runny, the preformed burger had a nice crust, and it was no crime if you wanted to throw some ketchup, or a shake of salt and pepper on your food.
Just don't complain about that little sheen of oil that lies on the bottom of your plate. "Oil, we use canola oil. It is good for you, help you digest. Your body is like your car, no oil, it won't run!" The coffee is 100% Folgers(85 cents – 10 cents for refills), and the clientele is 100% North Park, a mix of working stiffs, the elderly, and other regulars who need a good, but inexpensive breakfast. A group right out of central casting, I'm sure thousands of stories have echoed off the walls at Golden Phenix. Lucky moves at a steady pace while briefly chatting with every customer, that he wears all of the hats in this joint is pretty impressive. One thing I did notice about Lucky was, he doesn't like to make change. I asked Lucky what I owed him(in addition to my breakfast I had some coffee and 1 refill), and he said, "just give me 4 dollars".
And the coup de grace? After you're done with your meal…..
I know mine said, "it's your lucky day!"
One of the regulars, told me that Golden Phenix was indeed a Chinese Restaurant. You can tell that the "Chinese" portion was buffed out of the sign. They sure don't make 'em like Lucky's Golden Phenix anymore.
Lucky's Golden Phenix
3804 Grim Ave
San Diego, CA 92104