Saturday Stuffs: Sam Returns at Wal-Mi-Do and Shabu Shabu House Opening Soon

Just a couple of things…..

Sam is now at Wal-Mi-Do:

**** Wal-Mi-Do has closed

With jet lag, the time change, work, and surprise visitors, I just haven't been able to keep up! So thanks to Theresa, Hao, Kim, TammyC, and JKP, for keeping letting me know that Sam is now at Wal Mi Do.

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Since closing Sammy SushiI know people have been wondering what Sam would be up to. I managed to finally return Sam's phone calls, and decided to drop by for a quick lunch. Sam does look well rested.

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Sam told me that after 2 weeks of "hibernation" he was going stir crazy…so much for taking that long break.

Since this is a Korean styled, "Hwe" (raw fish) restaurant, I thought I'd try the Hwe Dop Bop lunch special ($10.99):

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Nice portion size…fish is better quality than other Hwe shops. The Cho Jang, was more on the "beany" side, and less sweet than other places. The lunch came with some panchan, and was overall a pretty good deal. I think 2 persons could acutally split this.

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Sam assures me that the fish he works with is of the same quality as Sammy's. He currently works lunch (1130 – 2pm) Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday, and dinner every night except Tuesday. He also said he had a surprise for my next visit…….so when things settle down…..

Wal Mi Do
4367 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111

Shabu Shabu House:

While driving on Convoy, I noticed this sign:

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Right next to Tapioca Express and Crab Hut.

The sign says it'll open on November 12th, that's right around the corner.

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Just in time for colder weather……

That's it for now….I hope you're having a great weekend!

$5 Friday Meal -Tuna Casserole

mmm-yoso!!! is just a food blog.  A few people contribute and we talk about what and where we ate for the most part.  Today is a what, written by Cathy.

Hi.  Kirk is taking a break since he has been doing a lot after his vacation.  Plus, this is the 14th Friday now I am writing about meals for two which can be made for $5 or less using ingredients found on sale this week.  Since it has been cold out these past few mornings and evenings, using the oven (opposed to the outdoor grill or the microwave or stovetop) helps get the inside of the house warm.

There are thousands of casseroles, or "Hot Dish" meals which can be easily and quickly made, all using a varying combination of ingredients yet primarily the same general ones: protein, dairy, vegetable, starch and a wet binding/sauce.  Sometimes I toss in leftovers and bake.

Tuna casserole 003 However, this week, the "fancier" tuna, cream of mushroom/chicken/celery soup and pastas are on sale at Vons.

I added frozen peas and some pimento for color and flavor.

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If you use wide, flat egg noodles, you don't have to cook ahead.  If you have some sort of twisty/thick noodles, cook (in salted water to add flavor because the pasta will not take on any flavor after it is cooked) and drain.Tuna casserole 004 

Flake the tuna (don't drain it), add the can of cream soup along with 1/2 can of milk, a large handful (1 Cup) of frozen peas and about a tablespoon (or more of the pimento.

Mix. Fold in the noodles. Tuna casserole 006

 Put in the oven at 350° for about 30 minutes, to heat through.

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Cathy's Tuna Noodle Casserole

2 cans tuna in water (about 12 ounces total), flaked. Do not drain.

1 can cream of mushroom/celery/chicken soup

1/2 can milk

1 C frozen peas

2 Tbs chopped pimento

6 ounces pasta cooked in salted water

Mix together all but the pasta.  Fold in pasta. Bake, uncovered for 30 minutes @ 350°

Thailand: One Night in Bangkok Part 2, and the Naga Festival in Nong Khai

After wandering around Banglamphu for a while, we returned to our room, caught a short nap, woke, showered, and went downstairsto check-out. Lamphu House gladly stowed our backpacks, and we decided to do some sightseeing. Road traffic in Bangkok has earned some notoriety, and rightfully so, the city seems to caught in the grip of an eternal traffic jam. Luckily, there are several excellent mass transit options in the city. One of which is by boat. We were within easy walking distance of Phra Athit, and it was just a short boat ride to our destination Tha Chang.

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The experience was an interesting one. The most amazing thing to me was how the young lady kept track of who had gotten on the ferry at each stop.

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She would march up and down the boat, shaking her fare container, automatically stopping at every new customer.

Two stops later we had arrived at our destination. And wouldn't you know it, we stepped off the dock…into a rather large and busy "food court". And the fragrances made us realize it was time for breakfast.

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From this shop…..

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I ordered the Roast Duck Red Curry (35 Baht – about $1):

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The curry was mildly spicy, and as seasoned well. The duck was pretty tender, and the flavor was on the "wild" side, which kinda freaked the Missus out. The Missus loves gamey flavors in most meats, but is of the opinion that all duck must taste of 5 spice. Needless to say, I enjoyed it much more than She did.

The Missus ordered Her "breakfast" from this booth:

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It was a very tasty plate of deep fried fish with basil (40 baht):

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The crosscut slices of fish had been, as the Missus put it, "fried to death, in a good way" and had the texture of a salty-peppery-savory jerky.

As a little bonus, the Missus had been curious about another dish. When She inquired about it, She was told it was "minced bird", and was given a little sample.

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It was quite spicy, and on the chewy side, but very good nonetheless. All in all, a very nice breakfast.

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We arrived at the gates of Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace a bit early. And saw this procession of soldiers walking across the street.

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The Missus, always the curious one, actually followed the soldiers across the street. As they sat down to breakfast……She started with the questions, as only the Missus can. Stuff like, "what are you here for, is there a parade?" I finally pulled Her away when, poking at their guns, She asked, "is this real?" It's amazing what She can get away with….had I gone down the same road, I'd probably be singing my own version of "One Night in Bangkok".

While we sat and waited for the venue to open, a very well dressed gentleman walked up to us, and informed us that the Grand Palace was closed for a Holiday, but never fear, he'd arrange to have us taken on a "special" tuk-tuk tour of some little known Wats. We almost felt honored to have been selected for the classic "Grand Palace is closed" scam! Of course the Grand Palace wasn't closed, and we saw students in school uniforms, so it obviously wasn't a holiday!

After paying the almost $10 entrance fee, we made our way into Wat Phra Kaew. I really loved the outline of the Stupa and various Temples against the Bangkok sky. 

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OnenightP215  After walking along the grounds of the Wat for a while it struck me……Wat Phra Kaew was Bangkok in microcosm. Things seemed to be really packed in, a bit cramped, and crowded, but colorful and vibrant…full of life. The famed Emerald Buddha is quite tiny, and sits on a stand that is quite high, and so somewhat hard to see.

The Grand Palace itself seemed a bit anti-climatic.

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We left, skirting the Palace walls, and made our way to Wat Pho(Temple of the Reclining Buddha). OnenightP222After paying the 50 Baht admission, we entered the main building. Prepared to be underwhelmed, I turned to the Missus and said, "ok, where's the reclining Buddha?" To which the Missus replied, "just turn around stupid….." I turned, and my jaw hit the floor….

It was a pretty impressive sight……..150 feet long, and 50 feet high.

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The grounds of Wat Pho is less cluttered, and much more relaxing than Wat Phra Kaew. It is also the oldest Wat in Bangkok.

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After wandering the grounds of Wat Pho for a while, we noticed it was getting a bit late, and we went on our way.

On our way back to Tha Chang, the Missus and I detected a scent that rose above the usual cooking smells of Bangkok. Curious, we ventured down an alleyway.

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And our noses led us to this:

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A quantity of seafood in various levels of fermentation, and barrels of dried shrimp, fish, and squid.

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Quite an impressive array……

A few minutes later we were on our back to the Guest House to pick up our gear.

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And headed back off to the Airport. As fate would have it, we found out our flight had been delayed, "for maybe 2 hours…." OK, so what to do at Suvarnabhumi Airport? We found that seating is rather scarce, and the Airport crowded, and the best option to find someplace to sit was at one of the fast-foodish restaurants. And there was one that I found a bit intriguing.

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It is called 'R Burger', and is a Roppongi based Japanese-style "burger joint". If you are used to American burgers……the term burger is used in a rather loose context here. "Chicken burger garnished with Shiso and Ume dressing" anyone? How about a salad "stick"…..basically a Japanese riff on a Vietnamese spring roll. The burgers were pork, chicken, maguro….and announcing the newest addition to the R Burger line-up…the novel concept of a beef burger! (Looks like they are made from one-eyed cows, huh?)

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And most importantly…..you just can't go without that special added ingredient….collagen ?!!!??!

OnenightP232It seems that the buns at R Burger are processed with Marine Collagen….I guess they inject their buns…to smooth out our "buns". In fact, you see the words "collagen", "healthy" and "smooth" strategically placed throughout the restaurant. Personally, I find that "Hot Dog", "Fried Potato Wedges", "collagen",  and "healthy" a bit confusing. What was even more confusing was the "Avocado Salad Dog"…..which has no "Dog" and was basically a bun (don't forget the collagen), served with "hydroponic vegetable"…..to put it in overly blunt American terms…this was avocado, tomato, and lettuce, in a bun. All slathered with that most healthy of toppings; wasabi mayo…..hey, if the collagen doesn't smooth you out, the mayo surely will, right?

I purchased an R Dog "combo" which came with potato wedges and a drink. I chose a Green Tea drink…..which in a direct contradiction to everything else on the menu was exactly that, cold green tea…..nothing else.

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The potato wedges were fried nicely, and if you're used to American portions, you'll be in for a shock…there were 7 wedges, served in a rather large paper sack.

Soon enough my 'R Dog' arrived.

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It was a pretty large dog, long and thin, with a natural casing, but very little flavor….add to that the fact that I still can't get behind the idea of ketchup on a Hot Dog…though the Missus likes Her dog that way. What I really enjoyed was the bun….it was light, the crust was crisp, the bread a bit sweeter, but not too sweet….must be that collagen magic at work! And since we all know that collagen is the "glue which holds our body together" I had the added satisfaction of knowing that none of my limbs, or other body parts for that matter, would suddenly decided to take leave…my mind on the other hand, well, that's another story.

Finally, after what seemed forever…….our flight left for Udon Thani. One quick note on AirAsia, the flights are cheap, but as with any budget carrier, they will try to squeeze every Baht they possibly can from you…from charging for water (10 Baht), to charging for checking luggage. Luckily, the Missus and I were traveling light…..only carry on for us. The original plan was to arrive in Udon Thani at arround 4pm; catch a Tuk Tuk to the Bus Depot, and catch the bus to Nong Khai, which resides on the Thailand – Laos border. This way we'd make it into Nong Khai before dark. Unfortunately, our flight was delayed, and night falls like a dark, black curtain in this part of the world. We arrived to darkness, and the Missus was feeling a tad uncomfortable…..after a brief discussion I made an executive decision; we'd catch the shuttle from the airport to Nong Khai, and take our chances. Most of the folks getting on the shuttle were headed straight for the Friendship Bridge…the Lao border. We decided to get a good night's sleep…..in need of a destination, I muttered the only Guest House I knew of in Nong Khai….they very populaMut Mee. We arrived to a driveway in almost pitch black darkness….but the really nice driver pointed down the pitch-black driveway, and smilingly said, "Mut Mee…down there". And, yes it was. We could hear the muttering of voices as well approached the end of the drive way….we made a turn, and arrived at a little desk fronting a kitchen area. A fellow with a British accent (Harps) greeted us with, "you are pretty late..…" And went one about the scarcity of rooms…..call it good timing if you will, but we arrived during the Bun Fai Phaya Naga, the Naga Fireball Festival. During the full moon of the 11th month, a mysterious event occurs in Nong Khai….mysterious fireballs arise out of the Mekong River…legend has it that mythical serpents create the fireballs. So, would we be able to get a room? Harps looked at us and apologetically said: "I'm sorry..…but it has been very busy….thousands of people. Even one of the Princesses visited! So the only thing we have is Julian and Pao's suite…and it is rather expensive…660 Baht a night." Are you kidding me? Less than 20 bucks a night…sold! Harps guided us over to the "suite"….and we freshened up…..(more on Mut Mee in a future post). Harps had also mentioned the festival, telling us it was about a 20 minute walk along the Mekong…and we could hear music playing. And soon enough we saw this from our front window:

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Which only served the purpose of making us hurry even more…..plus we were pretty darn hungry. The banks of the Mekong in this area is paved, and well served with a walkway….which made things quite easy for us. Most of the restaurants alongside the Mekong were closed, the bars were of course open! And many of the businesses were releasing lanterns into the air:

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This one had the unlucky fate of landing on the balcony of an abandoned building…starting a small fire…..it was handled with much good natured giggling……

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NongKhai1n04 As we approached the festival it slowly got more and more crowded…..and the every present fragrance of food was as intense as the music was loud. As we found throughout Thailand and Laos, everyone is up for a good time!

Along with the entertainment on a stage at one end of the festival:

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Was this affair on another stage…..

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Some kind of couples pageant….don't ask me to explain, I haven't a clue. I can say, that there was a speaking portion….but it looked like all the good looking young pairs from the area were involved….

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Regardless, the Missus found this to be "really cute and charming" and stayed to watch for a while.

But eventually hunger trumped any desire to see who won the contest, and we walked pass all the food booths. As would be expected for a city along the banks of the Mekong; seafood was in abundant display.

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Alongside the usual "meat on a stick", sweets, there were several Oyster Omelete booths.

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And what Festival would be complete without a insect booth?

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In the end, the Missus and I settled for some pretty basic stuff.

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I went with some Pad Thai from this Father and Son team.

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NongKhai1n15  Kind of greasy, and lacking in tamarind tanginess, but serviceable.

The Missus went with a Papaya Salad from the smiling young man to the right. Quite pungent, with a bunch of fermented fish paste, it met the expectations of fair food. Nothing outstanding, but it quelled our hunger.

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For dessert, I had some fried duck:

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Tough, but with decent flavor……

The Missus went for a frozen popsicle like treat.

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We hadn't seen any fireballs rising out of the Mekong….but had a fun time anyway. We walked back to our room, grabbed a beer and some water from the fridge at reception (Mut Mee works on a "honor system"….you grab stuff from the fridge, write down what you took in a book up front, and pay for it a check-out….I love it)., sat on the porch overlooking the Mekong, and along with counting the geckos on the ceiling, we counted our blessings as well…….hard to believe we'd only been in Thailand for a bit over 48 hours.

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I know this has been a long post……but I thought you might enjoy it! Thanks for hanging in there!

Midweek Meanderings

Just a few items to get you past "hump day".

Mr Dumpling:

A few weeks back, I received an email(Thanks MrC), than PedMa commented regarding Mr Dumpling. Located on Convoy Court, right behind 99 Ranch Market, I managed to take a drive past this weekend.

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The sign says "Chinese Grill", and the name is "Mr Dumpling"…..so it gives you an inkling.

Le Chef Bakery:

During early morning Banh Mi runs, I've noticed packages of Baguettes being delivered with tags that read Le Chef Bakery. I was never really able to find out much. But look at what I drove past while taking a detour on Ruffner Street.

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Looks like a wholesale bakery operation. Anyone know anything?

Mo's is Closed:

Back in September, 'CD' commented on Mo's, basically saying that the place has been closed by the Health Department. I wasn't able to drop by before our trip. So this past weekend, I dropped by, and yes Mo's is closed.

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The only item of significance was a Department of Alcoholic Beverage Control suspension notice.

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Which, if I recall, doesn't usually shut a restaurant down, it just suspends the establishment from serving alcohol. I'll do some further digging and see what I can find out. I've been told that Mo is only currently doing catering. I'll let you know what I find.

Beer Inquiry:

I recently received an email asking me if I knew where Asahi Kuronama could be found in San Diego. Unfortunately, I can't find the email. So I'm posting what I found here. I've seen Asahi Kuronama on the shelves at both Nijiya Market and 99 Ranch Market. 

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Nijiya Market
3860 Convoy St Ste 109
San Diego, CA 92111

99 Ranch Market
7330 Clairemont Mesa Blvd
San Diego, CA 92111

Now if I can only find me some Beer Lao……….

And Finally:

Here's a nice piece of photoshop work from FOY (Friend of Yoso), and fellow Food Blogger Dennis who does A Radiused Corner. Dennis has a great sense of humor, and has called me the "Banh Mi Rover"…..and he backed it up with this:

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You know……I can see the resemblance! Thanks Dennis!

I hope everyone is having a great week!

Thailand: One Night in Bangkok – Part 1

I've been waiting to use that line for almost 25 years! Not that I'm a fan of the song……

If you want to keep track of our various modes of transportation for this trip, you can start with a train. We decided to take Amtrak to Union Station, and skip the gas prices (still way over $3/gallon at the time) and stress. For $29 each we made it to Union Station, and caught the FlyAway Bus to LAX for $4 a piece. It was easy, no traffic, no increased blood pressure, no road rage. And being your typical Asian, we provisioned ourselves well(you never know when hunger may strike!!!)……we had a package of several bentos….just enough to keep our strength up for a arduous trip ahead.

We again flew EVA, and spent a bit extra for Elite Class, the leg room, and the mere tantalizing possibility of sleep on a 14 hour flight is justification enough. And so we start with a weird photo of airline food:

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What made this interesting was that the chicken actually had peppers in it!OnenightP102 Never thought I'd see the day that hot peppers would be used in standard airline food. It did have some zip! What do I do with the standard issue roll?

EVA does a good job of keeping you fed, but for some, it's just not enough….

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It's always amusing to see an animated representation of your trip……..

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Having ample time to discuss our plans for the next few days on the 14 hour flight to Taiwan, and the 3 1/2 hour leg to Bangkok, we decided that our best move would be to fly to Udon Thani. So we bought tickets on Air Asia at their booth in Suvarnabhumi Airport. Air Asia has some really low fares, the flight to Udon Thani cost only $30 a piece……taxes, however were about equal to the cost of the airfare, thus doubling the price!

Taxi note for Bangkok. You'll get mobbed by various "Limo Drivers" at baggage claim…bypass them and go to the taxi stand (50 Baht fee) streetside. Oh, and it doesn't end when you get into the taxi either. Insist that the driver use the meter. We were quoted a "real cheap" price of 800 Baht, "meter no good, going to cost you 900 Baht", which is totally bogus. The price via meter 280 Baht, going via the "highway all the way" (i.e. toll booths), another 70 Baht, plus, you'll get to your destination faster because the driver can't wait to get rid of you. Airport fee 50 Baht.

Not being familiar with Bangkok, I decided to stay in the Banglamphu area. It is pretty close to the sites we wanted to check out, and we'd only be staying overnight. The Guest House selected? One called Lamphu House. It is located off of Soi Rambutri, down an alleyway, and is relatively quiet, if a bit run down and no frills.

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OnenightP107Of course, for 680 Baht (a tad over $20) it would do. The sheets were clean, the A/C worked well, and we had our own bathroom, even if the water was more cold than hot.

Add to that the fact we were totally bushed, and I had no qualms about staying here. Plus, the staff was very nice, they let us store our bags the next day after check-out, while we went to visit a few sights around Bangkok. Pretty easy going folks.

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One thing is for certain….you'll never go hungry in Bangkok…never. The entire city smells of food!

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All shapes and sizes….

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One thing we noticed in Bangkok and Chiang Mai, was the amount of what I can only loosely call "sushi". This stuff was everywhere.

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And also, a preoccupation with anything that resembled a sausage.

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We were starting to get overwhelmed by the crowds and the pollution, so we ducked down a side alley in the Banglamphu Market area, and found a little food stall doing great business.

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OnenightP114You basically ordered one of the 2 curry like noodle soups, and helped yourself to herbs and veggies. The Missus loved the pickled greens, and I found the bittermelon to be quite good. This was a nice little snack, and we felt refreshed enough to head back out onto the street.

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OnenightP117And ran smack dab into the "TFC" stand…..that would be Thai Fried Chicken. It smelled heavenly! I have never been known to possess an iron will in the face of fried chicken, and this was no exception. Except, in this case, my compromise existed of only having this:

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In an show of uncustomary restraint, I "only" got a bag of fried chicken skin. (10 Baht) Fried to crisp perfection, mildy spicy, with a hint of sweetness, these were wonderful. For some strange reason, I felt stuffed after finishing off the chicken skin.

And just for the heck of it, we took a stroll down that special area, the backpacker hell called Khao Son.

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Noisy, crowded, with cheap Guest Houses lining the road, it was sensory overload……man did I ever need a shower…..

After that shower, and a short nap, we hit the streets again, just to get our bearings. And even though we weren't very hungry, we decided to stop by Roti-Mataba, a very well known Roti/Curry stop that gets mentioned by Lonely Planet, and other publications.

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The first floor of Roti Mataba is stifling hot, and grease has splattered everywhere. But there's an upper level, that is powerfully air conditioned….I swear there was frost on the windows. We tried a few of the curries:

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One beef, one chicken. I recall the Missus enjoying this much more than I. We both thought the Roti was much too sweet.

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And on the way back to our room, the Missus spied something She could not resist.

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OnenightP129Few things beat  fried egg goodness………………the chicken with basil and chilies was quite good (salty and spicy) as well. Even though She was still full, the Missus somehow found room for this. (35 Baht – $1) It was a nice way to end the evening.

We crashed, only to arise wide awake at 4am. What to do? The Missus and I decided to reprise what we did at 430 am in Hanoi, and we headed out to see what we could find.

And wouldn't you know it, on one of the side streets there was some activity. Stands selling rice porridge.

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And vendors making their way down the street, setting up for the morning trade.

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Various stands were selling fruits and vegetables.

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And than the Missus saw it….

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The Kanom Krok vendor. Lovely, molten, tongue scorching discs of coconut goodness.

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10 Baht for ten of these Kanom Krok, nice and crisp on the outside, with a searing pudding like center. The Missus considered these the third best She had on this trip.

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The lady making these confections was very nice. She demonstrated how to make them, and let the Missus turn over the Kanom Krok. It's always a good time for a snack in Bangkok.

As we returned to our room, sans several layers of derma from our tongues, I noticed that the bars on Soi Rambutri were still open! I guess there's no last call in Banglamphu?

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I also noticed a young man, a tall young man……when we arrived he was passed out on the sidewalk in front of the 7-11. In the afternoon he shuffled past us, blood shot eyes, smelling of the "cash crop". During our evening stroll, I spied him staggering down the avenue, playing bumper cars with the Pad Thai carts and taxis parked along the street. Here he was, 5am in the morning, having beers with a group of girls at one of the tables in the bar, the cycle starting all over again. What is this strange hold that Bangkok has on a person? I guess those lyrics from that familiar song never rang so true.

"One night in Bangkok makes a hard man humble
Not much between despair and ecstasy
One night in Bangkok and the tough guys tumble
Can't be too careful with your company
I can feel the Devil walking next to me"

One Night in Bangkok (1984 – Murray Head)

Kien Giang

**** Kien Giang has closed

OK, I'm still suffering from major jet lag…yesterday, I got up at 4am, did chores, blah, blah, blah…..had an early breakfast/lunch at 10am, and decided to take a "short" nap which didn't quite turn out that way……my watch alarm went off at 330 pm…it was still set for 530 am Lao time. Boy is my butt dragging…..I must be making slug trails all over the house! Well enough about my jet lag. Here's one that's been on the back-burner for a while…..

Kien Giang is a small shop tucked away in the back of the same strip mall on the corner of 54th street and University that houses Vien Dong Market and Van Hoa Vietnamese Restaurant among others. It's easy to miss….

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I had made a previous aborted attempt to grab a Banh Mi here about a year ago, but was dissuaded by the somewhat dilapidated shape the shop was in, and the huge swarm of winged beasts who would have devoured my Banh Mi faster than I could. And then there was the story from a good FOY (friend of Yoso) who once bit into her Banh Mi, only to crunch into a staple. Now I believe that women do need more iron in their diet….just not quite in that manner.

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And yet, I like to believe that I'm a pretty open-minded individual, and it woKienGiang03uldn't be right for me to just write off Kien Giang just because of its appearance. Which of course led me to Kien Giang one cool weekend morning.

I arrived shortly after opening, and the gentleman manning the counter was quite nice. After perusing the menu, I decided to go with the Banh Mi Dac Biet (special – $3) just to get a feel for the style of sandwich the place made.

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My sandwich was wrapped, and when opened looked to be in fine shape.

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I found the bread to be a bit on the stale and crumbly side. There was good amount of pickled veggies, but the Cha Lua was cut very thin, and the Pate was tasteless. The Jam Bon (ham) was on the dry side, but had good flavor. Overall a very mediocre sandwich……and yet, a few weeks later I decided to return.

And got a Xiu Mai Banh Mi (meatball – $3). Now I don't know why I keep trying Xiu Mai Banh Mi…perhaps it's to find one that I enjoy as the version at Saigon Sandwiches

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This however, was another one of those fish sauce – tomato sauce versions. Not among my favorite KienGiang08 things. The bread was again on the dry, slightly aged, side, and this was again a fairly mediocre sandwich. Which had me wondering; with all of the competition in the area, this place has been here for a while. So they must do something right. Can anyone shed some light?

Giang Kien Sandwich & Deli
5296 University Ave
San Diego, CA 92105

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Luang Prabang Salad – Nyam Salat

Yes, the Missus is missing some of the dishes She had in Luang Prabang already, especially the Luang Prabang Salad, a local specialty. The Missus could not have a lunch (and sometimes dinner) without it. One of the key ingredients of the salad is Phak Nam, the local watercress. The watercress that we were served in Luang Prabang was young and tender, looking almost like Kaiware, Daikon Sprouts. The flavor was very mild, faintly peppery, slightly bitter(they enjoy bitter flavors), with some sweet overtones. But what the Missus enjoyed most about the salad was the dressing, which seemed to have a European-Lao pedigree, that used both fish sauce and egg yolks, and as with many Lao recipes, was put together using a mortar and pestle.

Here's a photo of the Missus's favorite version of the salad:

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From Soucham Restaurant, She had this salad 3 times during our stay in Luang Prabang.

Upon our return, the Missus was craving the salad. Fortunately, I purchased a little pamphelet called; Tamarind's Little Book of Salads during our visit to Tamarind Restaurant. Even though the little booklet is only 14 pages long one of the recipes included is for Luang Prabang Salad. I've taken several liberties with the recipe; replacing the lime juice with lemon juice, we were sure that the version the Missus enjoyed the best was made with lemon juice, I used a combination of palm sugar and granulated sugar, and we couldn't find a nice tender watercress, though Nijiya will carry something similar once in a while; so I used a combination of tender pea shoots and Romain lettuce hearts. It didn't turn out too bad.

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I made the dressing a bit thicker than what is served in Luang Prabang, and will probably thin it out next time I make this; per the Missus' request.

So without further ado:

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3 Large Hard Boiled Eggs (do not over cook)
1 Clove Garlic – roasted
1/2 – 1 1/2 Tsp Sea Salt (aka "A Lao pinch of salt")
1 Tb Canola Oil
2 Tb Water
2-3 Tb Lemon Juice
1 Tb Palm Sugar
1/2 Tsp Sugar
Fish Sauce to taste

2 Cups Romain Lettuce Hearts ChoppedLPSalad02
1 Handful tender Pea Shoots, or even better, tender watercress
2 Scallions – Green parts only, sliced thin
3 Tb cilantro chopped fine
3 Tb mint chopped fine (optional)
Cherry Tomatoes
Cucumber

1 – Slice eggs in half lengthwise, remove yolks, and slice whites thinly.
2 – Place eggs yolks, garlic, palm sugar, and salt in a mortar and pound into a paste.
3 – Add oil, lemon juice, water, and fish sauce (if desired) and combine. TasLPSalad05te, and adjust flavors, and thin out with additional water if desired.
4 – Combine pea shoots, cilantro, and scallions.
5 – Place Romain lettuce in a layer in the middle of serving plate; mound pea shoot mixture on top of lettuce. Arrange cucumber slices and tomato on plate. 
6 – Pour dressing over salad before serving.

– To add a nice touch to the salad; top with crumbled pork rinds.

Enjoy……

We’re Back……..

Imbackintro00Yep, we're back…..the Missus and I have just returned…tired, and yet exhilarated at the same time. So excuse me while I noodle around with our photos for a while. The wonderful noodles to the right was from a stand in Luang Prabang, where we stopped and ate breakfast every morning….along with a wonderful cup of Lao Coffee….after the first morning, we would just have a seat, and the Owner who smile at us, and ask "same-same"? And we'd nod yes….so we ended up calling the place (no English sign) "Same-Same". We did so much, ate so much, that I really am not sure how I'm going to do this yet.

But let me just give you a recap anyway.

We started in Bangkok, just an overnight stay…we had an idea, and just went with the flow. Of course, there's an unending supply of street food in Bangkok.

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You really can't go wrong.

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We also managed to catch some of the sights.

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That afternoon it was off to the border town of Nong Khai. And much to our surprise, we arrived during the Naga Fireball Festival. 

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No mysterious orbs rising out of the Mekong, but lots of street food. We managed to snag a room in a Guest House overlooking the Mekong River.

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We also had some interesting meals in Nong Khai. Have you ever had anything like this from a Hospital Food Court?

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Or maybe Kanom Krok in a bus station?

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One thing for sure….I'd never had this before.

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It was delicious. As was the Kai Yaang (Roasted Chicken), and sticky rice we had.

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In spite of all the interesting food and venues…the strangest thing we did in Nong Khai was visit Sala Keo Ku, a somewhat bizarre-nightmarish park of sculptures by mystic Boun Leua Surirat. Sculptures, some towering up to 80 feet tall, are a mixture of various Hindu and Buddhist deities that seem to come from some HR Giger-ish dreamworld.

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We also took the "yellow bus" to Tha Bo, a market town…..I'll say this for sure….the "Yellow Bus" sure has a bunch of character! Tha Bo was also interesting since the population is 70-80% Vietnamese.

The next morning we crossed the Friendship Bridge into Laos, and a cab into the capital city of  VientianeIn contrast to crazed Bangkok, Vientiane is a sleepy city of 230,000.

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We also met some of the nicest, kindest, and most gracious folks we've ever encountered. Depending on who you talk to, experienced travelers to Laos will tell you that Laos is what Thailand was like 20-30 years ago(or maybe more…depending who you're asking).

Our most memorable meal in Vientiane was from one of the many stalls lining the Mekong River.

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There are few things better than having a cold Beer Lao, some freshly grilled seafood, all wrapped up in a sunset on the banks of the Mekong River.

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There's more to the story of this dinner, but I'll save that for later. For now you'll just have to admire our salt crusted, lemongrass stuffed fish, that was swimming around a few minutes before.

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We had planned on staying overnight, but stayed 2 nights in Vientiane. To save time we ended up flying to Luang Prabang.

Beautiful, scenic, Luang Prabang was by far our most favorite stop on this trip….or perhaps on any trip. If you think Vientiane is laid back, and do Luang Prabang right, your blood pressure is sure to drop several notches……There were times when I thought Luang Prabang was an island floating over the Mekong River….

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We intended on 2 nights, and stayed 5….if I didn't need to work…I'd still be there.

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Early every morning, the streets of Luang Prabang becomes a river of flowing orange as the Monks come to collect their Alms.

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There's something about this time honored tradition that attracted the Missus and I, enough so, that we watched the procession every morning.

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Silence….except for the padding of bare feet on the asphalt. The Missus and I felt honored to be able to give alms….

We stayed in a Hotel next to one of the Wats, and away from the main tourist drag, where this procession turns from a respectful, time honored tradition, into a depressing paparazzi moment.

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What about the food you may ask? The Missus and I were able to sample many of the Luang Prabang specialties, such as Khai Pene, a dried, then fried river moss from the Mekong:

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Like very good Nori, flavored with tomato, shallots, and garlic, and always served with Jaew Bong, a garlicky, mildly spicy, sweet, and savory "dip", studded with buffalo skin, considered a classic Luang Prabang dish.

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Heaven on Earth with a cold Beer Lao…..

I had pretty much dismissed the Fresh Market right off the tourist track in Luang Prabang, as being too touristy…until we visited. Man was I wrong. Along with the usual suspects:

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Were some quite unusual items……

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And I was to find out that the "forest" and "mountain" people come here to sell their wares. And also noticed that the customers were almost all local early in the morning.

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Fascinated with the cuisine(and staying in one place for more than a few days for the first time), I took a cooking class from Joy Ngueamboupha, Co-Owner of Tamarind Restaurant in Luang Prabang. Please read Joy's interesting short bio, here. The class and market tour were fantastic, and it did much to fill in the blanks regarding Lao food. There was no gas or electric stoves, we cooked over charcoal…I was surprised that my stuff actually turned out ok(pretty good actually).

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We also had the chance to taste some items that are considered pretty exotic by US standards. Boy have I been missing out all these years……forget about french fries, where can I get my hands on more of this?

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At the time I scheduled the cooking class, I also attempted to make reservations for the "Adventurous Lao Gourmet" dinner. The nice Young Lady hesitated and asked that I wait until after the cooking course to schedule. After the course was over, I walked back to the restaurant, and tried to schedule the dinner again. The young lady called Joy on his cell….and he gave us the green light……

The degustation menu was an amazing eye-opening experience…..

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With items we've never experienced before, like Sa Thao, another classic Luang Prabang dish made with river algae.

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ImbackLP18 And other items which really challenged the Missus and I. You'll just have to stay tuned……

We were sad to leave Luang Prabang behind, but Chiang Mai was calling to us. We enjoyed historic Chiang Mai, and the Sunday Market is not to be missed (though we'll pass on the Night Bazaar):

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And along with street food, we enjoyed a few sit down dinners as well.

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Time got away from us in the end, and we managed only one last night in Bangkok before returning home…..but the Missus still got in some "parting shots", in the city that smells of food.

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I'm still wrestling with how, and what to post…..

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With tons of photos of various Wats (Temples) in every city….

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ImbackVT05 I wish I had a cold Beer Lao to help me figure things out right about now…..since I don't, any suggestions anyone?

Meanwhile, hang in there….I'll be right back!!

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