Guatemala: Tikal, Flores, and Cafe Arqueologico Yaxha

Even though we had our eyes glued to the little television in our room (the whole Swine Flu story was just breaking) most of the evening, we had no problem waking for our 5am bus to Tikal. Even at 5am, it was still pretty muggy. We made the 60 plus Kilometer trip squeezed into a mini-van, and arrived without incident. We purchased our tickets, and started walking under the jungle canopy making our way through the sprawling ruins of Tikal. But not before checking out the "Do Not" sign……

Tikal01  

Tikal02

Which would have taken one several minutes to read…..and led to the inevitable question, "was breathing allowed?"

The park itself is a set of trails which meander up, around, and through the ruins. The grand scale of the pyramids are pretty amazing, rising up in the air piercing the jungle canopy. You also soon come to understand that only a fraction of Tikal has been restored. All of those mounds and hills you walk past are structures waiting to see the light of day.

Tikal03 

According to what I've read, Tikal was first settled around 900 B.C…..yes, B.C. It was a minor settlement until the collapse of El Mirador between 250 – 150 B.C. when the first ceremonial structures were built. By 250 A.D. Tikal had become an important, and powerful Mayan "state". In 562 A.D. Tikal was crushed, and period called the "hiatus" began. For 130 years, no new structures were erected at Tikal. In 682 A.D. Tikal once again gained power, and a frenzy of new building began. At the height of power it is estimated that Tikal's population topped 100,000 and the city covered almost 20 square miles. By the 9th Century A.D. Tikal began feeling the strain of population growth, and eventually the city was abandoned until it's rediscovery.

Tikal04 

Without a doubt, the most impressive area of Tikal is the "Great Plaza". This large grassy area is dominated by two towering temples. Temple I towering 44 feet, also known as the "Jaguar Temple" is probably the most well known structure in Tikal as it is shown in most of the tourist photos and literature.

Directly facing it is Temple II (Temple of the Masks) at about 125 feet.

Tikal05 

As you can see, there are some fairly steep stairs up Temple II, from which you can get a good view of the "Great Plaza".

Tikal06 

It's hard to believe that building of the Great Plaza had already been underway during the time of Christ!

And like many things in life….it's much easier going up, than it is coming down!

Tikal07 

Tikal08As grand as it all was, for some strange reason "temple fatigue" set in pretty quick for me. Though the Missus was having a grand time. She being the one who never met a set of stairs She didn't want to climb. She even scaled the 190 foot Temple V, and got this wonderful shot of Tikal rising out of the canopy.

Tikal09 

Tikal10 

By noon we both had seen enough, and caught the first minibus back to Flores. The minibus thing was interesting, as tourists were squeezed in, and than even more room was found for locals who used the vans as an informal bus service to get from location to location.

We arrived back in dusty Flores famished. We had given a thought to trying out one of the wild game restaurants across the causeway in Santa Elena, but after reading that much of the wild game is poached, we decided to give it a pass. I had also read about a restaurant owned by a German Architect who specializes in monument conservation named Dieter Richter. Apparently, Mr Richter has worked on many remote sites, and has a restaurant called Café Arqueológico Yaxha. On the map, the Cafe seemed to be very far away, on the other side of Flores. But Flores, being perhaps the length of less than 3 football fields wide, it was just a 10 minute walk, taking the long way.

Yaxha01  

The interior is bright, and photos of various Mayan sites are posted on the walls.

Yaxha02 

And among the Hamburguesa, pancakes, and various versions of spaghetti was a page of "Mayan" specialties. We placed our order, and in keeping with restaurants in Honduras and Guatemala, we waited. Waiting for your meal in these countries is not a bad thing; it means that your meal is being prepared fresh. Sitting with a growling belly for an hour is not uncommon as we found later on in Copan.

The Missus ordered the Filete de Pescado al Tikinchic:

Yaxha03 

Yaxha04Unlike the Yucatanian Tikinchic I've had the "sauce" was not citrus based, but tomato and pepper based. The Black Snook (robalo) was cooked to perfection. The Missus loved this, and even enjoyed the mass produced corn chips!

I ordered the Pollo con salsa de Tamarindo:

Yaxha05 

This was a piece of boneless, skinless chicken thigh glazed in a tamarind sauce. The chicken was tough and stringy, kinda to be expected. The sauce was super tangy and puckery, and I think I detected a hint of soy sauce? Nevertheless, it was tasty. This was not bland in the least bit.

Curious, we also ordered the Yuca con Hierba Mora.

Yaxha06 

Yaxha07At first we were disappointed that the Yuca was just served on the side as with our other dishes. In essence it was a scrambled egg dish……but a scrambled egg dish that we enjoyed! The greens had an interesting mildly bitter and astringent effect, which heightened the flavor of everything else.

So after I return home, I look up Hierba Mora, and gasp! Everything I find lists it as Black Nightshade, which got my attention. Especially the part that read "When mature they should be considered poisonous as they may contain high levels of solanine, but in general the plant is not as poisonous as many of its nightshade cousins." Yikes! But reading this publication put me at ease. Within the document it lists the plants use as a pot-herb in Guatemala, saying that young plants areconsumed in large quantities.

It could have been that we had not eaten since the night before, but this meal left us more than satisfied.

Café Arqueológico Yaxha
Calle 15 de Septembre
Flores, Guatemala

Flores itself was a pretty dusty town. It didn't help that all the streets were dug up. Instead of streets you had trenches, some of which were ten feet deep.

Flores01 

In some instances, shops and building were isolated, and you had to cross those trenches via planks. As was the case in the local Tienda (market).

Flores02 

In others words, I got to say that I had to "walk the plank to get Agua Pura (water)". I'm sure that all the construction was for the good of all the future visitors…..

In Flores, was stayed at the Hotel Casa Amelia.

Flores03 

The rooms were modest, but clean.

Flores04 

Dig the curtains made from burlap sacks!!!!

But Casa Amelia had one commodity we relished, well two. Air conditioning, and a (small) television.

Flores05 

Flores06

And we had a view of Lake Peten Itza out our window. The Missus took this photo of kids being, well, kids using a sunken boat as a swimming pool.

And in spite of the wonderful sunset:

Flores08 

We both knew it was time to move on…….

O’ Yea! Vietnamese Cuisine

**** O'Yea has closed

Over a year after reading Mizducky's post on the quaintly named O Yea! we finally made it for a visit. You can read all about it in her post here.  If I recall, this used to be a Thai Restaurant in a former life. The interior is rather pink…..

OYea01   

The one odd thing is not the color, or any of the decor. In many kitchens you'll here the "ding" of the bell when a dish is ready for pick-up. At OY, you'll hear Big Ben Chime…."ding-dong-ding-dong…..ding-dong-ding-dong"!

The menu is just a tad South of huge, with 96+ dishes ranging from Pho Ga (Vietnamese Chicken Noodle Soup) to full on Hot Pot Dinners (Lau), and this doesn't include the 30 or so drinks. It's enough to trigger off "Vietnamese Menu Overload".

I decided to order the combination Com Tam pictured on the tabletop ($6.50):

OYea02 

OYea04 The first thing I always try to note is the fragrance of the broken rice; for some reason it always stimulates my appetite. Unfortunately, the aroma of 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline was lacking. It was appropriate as this dish was basically a "non-starter". The grilled pork was hard, greasy, and tough, though the "Cha" (steamed egg) was moist but bland. The "Bi" was dry, and lacked flavor.

OYea03 

The Missus had Her mind set on one thing from the beginning, those savory orbs of rice flour called Banh Khot ($6):

OYea05 

OYea06The Missus, an avowed Kanom Krok fan, had expected something similar with regards to texture; crisp exterior, light at first bite, with a still molten, custard like interior. This was already cold by the time it hit the table, and it was soggy all the way through.

Not a great meal by any stretch of the imagination. Still, I decided that I'd give the place another shot. Though the Missus decided to stay home and have leftovers.

Again, faced with the sizable menu, I was at a loss as to what to order. Not that the very nice young lady waiting for my order was pushy, when she was in fact quite nice……I think she's used to the initial state of confusion. I finally went with the Bun Bo Hue, one of my favorite noodle soups.

When the bowl arrived I was very surprised at the portion size…..it is priced at only five bucks($5):

OYea07 

OYea08In spite of the promising appearance, I could barely detect the scent of fish sauce. Nor could I pick up the aroma of lemongrass nor shrimp paste. Tasting the broth confirmed what my nose had not detected. The broth was very bland, annatto colored, salt water bland. The broth was also South of hot. BBH demands a scalding broth to take care of the herbs and vegetables provided. Notice I said vegetables, not garnish. For me the chopped greens are an integral part of the dish.

Too bad because the noodles were prepared well, and in spite of the lack of Cha Lua (steamed defatted pork sausage), there was meat galore in this bowl. The meat was very tender, the brisket full of flavor. The addition of Rau Ram (Vietnamese Coriander) added a nice peppery component to the bowl.

OYea09

This bowl reminded me of the version at Pho Hoa Cali Express. It's Bun Bo Hue designed for Pho lovers, if you're looking for that, it's waiting for you here. I found this lacking the earthy, spicy, bright flavors of a good Bun Bo Hue.

OYea10I had really to like this restaurant; the prices are good, and I had really nice and friendly service. So maybe one of my FOYs (Friends of Yoso) out there can tell what of the 90 plus items on the menu is worth trying????

O'Yea! Vietnamese Cuisine
4660 El Cajon Blvd #102
San Diego CA 92115

Five Foodies Attack Tacos in Yuma

Today ed (from Yuma) wants you to join Tina and him and some others for tacos. Kirk or Cathy will be your tour guide for the blog's next post.

Just like Chaucer's pilgrims headed toward Canterbury, true foodies all make a trip to that culinary Mecca of Yuma, Arizona.  Okay, stop laughing – just kidding.  But recently we were fortunate to have Rich Kaszeta, a professional bacon photographer (among other careers) and a food blogger from New Hampshire  (Offbeat Eats) visit our desert metropolis.

Even though he claimed to be in town for work, it seemed like his real — though secret — purpose was to eat as much Mexican food as he could in a week.  Micaela, her husband Brian, Tina, and I joined him for one evening of tacoing on 8th St (Calle Ocho).

Since we wanted to try places that the others had not visited before, we started at Asadero Los Compadres, which Tina and I had tracked down to its new location at the corner of 8th and 20th Ave:IMG_1487 After we ordered the tacos, we were given a couple of squeeze bottles and a standard wheel of condiments:IMG_1476 Certainly nothing very special here. The best, in my opinion was the pico de gallo (also sometimes called salsa la bandera):IMG_1477 The yellow squeeze bottle contained guacamole sauce that was rather thin and not especially full of avocado flavor.  The red bottle contained a very fiery salsa.

The only Agua Fresca available was a homemade jamaica:IMG_1479 It was decent, but for me, nothing to write home about — but you never know about somebody whose home is in New Hampshire.

We each ordered uno taco de cabeza:IMG_1480 uno de asada:IMG_1481 y uno de pastor:IMG_1483 My favorite was the cabeza, which was rich, soft, and deeply flavored.

Of course that preference may be because I misjudged how spicy the red salsa was, so my other two tacos tasted mostly like fire.  Chewy and flavorful fire, indeed, but too saucy for me to discern much else. Kirk would have loved them.  The general concensus of the others was that the pastor was good, and Rich and Tina, in particular, said the Asada seemed tender, smoky, and fresh.  Perhaps that is a result of the outdoor grill on which the pieces of steak were cooked:IMG_1486 After pausing to appreciate the sunset, which made even the parking lot of a service station seem kind of beautiful, IMG_1488 we went off to the next place, Corona:3665548655_f4885842b2_o[1] (2) (Thanks, Rich, for that photo)

To be honest, I had been a little disappointed in los Compadres, though that may have been partly my own overzealous squeezing. It had been good, but not outstanding, so I approached Corona with some trepidation; after all, I had not been that impressed with it on my last visit.

That just goes to show how little I know because all of us thought that Corona was, on this evening at least, the better of the two.  Here, the condiments are lined up on a counter, but unfortunately my picture doesn't show the grilled jalapenos and onions:IMG_1489 I started with a chicken taco and an Asada taco:IMG_1493 We all agreed that the chicken was outstanding, flavorful, tender, and moist.  The best chicken taco I've eaten in Yuma.  While the Asada had a nice smoky flavor, it seemed a little chewier than the Asada at the first taco truck. I can't say more.

Before we began eating, someone said "Micaela's tacos are so pretty, you need to take a picture of them."  So I did:IMG_1496 And yes, those are beautiful tacos. And you can also see how much a person can alter/develop/influence the taste of his/her taco by choosing different combos of condiments.

As we were eating, every one was praising the pastor, so I had to have one of those as well. After decoration, it looked like this:IMG_1500 Although the meat was a little greasy, the taste of the pastor was excellent — succulent, tender, smokey and fully flavored. In general, we thought it better than the pastor at los Compadres.

We also appreciated that a free bowl of beans came with each order:
IMG_1494 While not the world's finest frijoles, they were still welcome. Of course, we could have added onion, cilantro, and roasted jalapeno etc to the little bowls, but none of us was thinking clearly that evening. 

In addition, we all loved the limonada (oops, not pictured), though Brian and Micaela reported that the horchata was a little grainy at the bottom.

While these two trucks may not be the very best in Yuma, Rich assured us that they were better than any in New Hampshire.  In any case, we all had a good time, and as Micaela said, "it's so nice to go out with people who don't think that it's weird to talk about food all night."  Yup, she's right about that!

A Grillin’ Fourth – An updated Lebanese Garlic Paste Recipe, and a simple Greek Marinade

Happy Fourth Everyone!

This year, just like millions of households across the US we decided to do some grillin' for the Fourth of July. We just kept things simple. I do have one bad habit….I'm notorious for trying to squeeze every single last spark from my charcoal, so a morning of grilling usually encompasses at least several different preparations.

07042009 003 

This year, along with roasting peppers for future use in sandwiches and salads, I found that the Missus loves simple grilled oyster mushrooms. The mushrooms are simply coated with Greek Extra Virgin Olive Oil, and seasoned with sea salt and oregano. The char was removed from the peppers, and it was topped with Greek Feta from North Park Produce and roasted in a pan.

07042009 006 

The Missus also wanted some grilled sardines, and I found some fresh local sardines(Iwashi) at Nijiya.

07032009 020 

I also bought some Lamb Shoulder from NPP, cut it into cubes, and used my general purpose Greek Marinade for the meat. It is so easy that I'm kinda embarrassed to share:

Greek style Marinade for Lamb or Chicken:

1/2 Cup Greek Extra Virgin Olive Oil07032009 018
1/3 Cup fresh squeezed lemon juice
6-8 cloves of garlic minced
1-2 Tb dried oregano
1 Tb Kosher Salt

– Mix ingredients together. Taste and adjust seasoning.
– Marinade 1-2 lbs of meat overnight.

I used the meat for kabobs:

07032009 021 

The marinade did a great job tenderizing the meat. I ate these wrapped in a pita with a nice smear of Garlic Sauce.

Speaking of Garlic Sauce, here's an update of the recipe I posted back in 2006. Going for the "Zankou" effect, I added mashed potato to give the sauce body.

Lebanese Garlic Sauce:
2 Bulbs of Garlic peeled and separated07032009 012
1/2 Cup Lemon Juice
3/4 Cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 Large Russet Potato, boiled and mashed
2 Tsp Kosher Salt

– Combine garlic, lemon juice, and salt in a blender.
– Blend until a smooth "paste" is achieved
– While blender is running, slowly add olive oil into the blender in a thin stream until the mixture thickens.
– After mixture thickens, stop the blender and add 2-3 Tb mashed potato, and blend. Keep adding mashed potato until desired thickness is reached.
– Refrigerate overnight. 

Be aware that your breath will probably be politically incorrect for a while after consuming this.

07042009 024 

The last item for the grill were some chicken wings. I had eight wings total, so I seasoned four of the wings with sea salt and canola oil. In need of some variety, I took a few tablespoons of the garlic sauce, and a few tablespoons of canola oil, added a touch of salt and rubbed the other four wings down with the mixture. I let the wings sit for about 20 minutes or so.

The garlic wings are on the left, the salt only wings are on the right:

07042009 011 

I think I'll use my "old" garlic sauce recipe and marinate some wings overnight next time. I do enjoy hardwood charcoal grilled wings seasoned with just salt.

I hope everyone has a fun and safe Fourth of July!

Chiang Mai: Huen Phen

Man, I can't believe it's been over 10 months since we returned from our Laos – Thailand trip, and I still haven't finished my vacation posts yet! So to make sure that I get these posts done, I thought I'd deviate from my usual chronologic posts and start with our favorite meal(s) in Chiang Mai.

We kind of regret that we didn't check out Huen Phen until our last day in Chiang Mai, we'd surely have wanted at least another lunch there. Huen Phen is located down Thanon Rachamankha, in a more sedate area of Chiang Mai.

Vacation2008ThsiLaos02 117 

HuenPhenL01 Huen Phen itself is actually two different restaurants. During the evening, it's the crowded antique filled restaurant. During lunch, the area to the front left of the restaurant serves up steam table and noodle dishes.

HuenPhenL02 

The lady behind the counter was very nice, and even provided samples. I even sampled the broth HuenPhenL03 for the Khao Soi, which only confirmed (this was third version I tasted) that I didn't care for it. Of course everything we asked about was met with a, "it's good…you try, you try….." Which is kinda what happened, we ended up eating enough to feed a small army. And incredibly we finished everything. 

HuenPhenL04 I've suddenly realized that if I went over every single dish, I'd still be writing on Monday, so I'll keep this to mostly photos. Let me just say, that I really enjoyed some of the dishes, especially the various Nahm Prik (dips/pastes) which is one of the signature dishes of Lanna (Northern Thai) cuisine. So without further ado, here are the photos:

HuenPhenL05

HuenPhenL06 

HuenPhenL07 

HuenPhenL08 

HuenPhenL09 

HuenPhenL10 

HuenPhenL11 

HuenPhenL12 

HuenPhenL13 We enjoyed lunch so much, that we returned for dinner!

Though we enjoyed lunch more, dinner was no less yummy! Especially the Nam Prik Ong, the classic Chili and Pork dip…think Thai Bolognese sauce. As much as I enjoyed that, the version with crisp pork skin was even better!

So here are the dinner photos:

HuenPhenL14 

HuenPhenL15 

HuenPhenL16 

HuenPhenL17 

Just a quick note, wouldn't you know that the only dish we didn't care for was the Morning Glory pictured above! Of course the Northern style Fish Soup was super!

HuenPhenL18 

HuenPhenL19 I think there are times when the photos speak for themselves.

Huen Phen
112 Thanon Rachamankha
Chiang Mai, Thailand

The 2009 San Diego County Fair, Part Two

mmm-yoso is the blog written by Kirk and ed (from Yuma) and Cathy, who is today's blogger.

Well, we finally made it to the Fair038.

The Theme this year is "Music Mania" and the entrance gate is decorated like an old jukebox.

Don Diego, the Official Greeter is more advertising that the Fairgrounds may be sold to a private owner if the current fiscal situation in our state is not cleared up.

Inside, the Fairgrounds look the same as always.

042

All of the traditional County Fair events are happening.

116

123

The beef cattle, which will be up for auction on July 4 along with the dairy goats (although the kid born at the beginning of the Fair will not be sold just yet) and pigs and sheep were available for purchase if you did not want to bother with the auction.

(If you want to know auction details, send an email or comment below)

069

 The Preserved foods, as well as the baked goods, which were all judged before the Fair opened, were on display060  with the ribbons  that were awarded.

Interesting tidbit- every morning there is a job of cutting away mold or slime from the baked goods on display. 

When entering items, at least six cookies and whole cakes and loaves of bread are entered for judging.  By the end of the run of the Fair, there are many signs indicating the item was 'too good to last!'…really though, it molded away.

039

Now, why you are here (on the blog).  Food.  Go to this building, which houses the "Designs in Wood" entries.

031

027

Yes.

Go on.  It's $4.75

The small 'leftovers' box is pulled from the freezer.  It contains three strips of dark chocolate covered bacon.
 

028

029

030

This was by far my most favorite item here.  The bacon is thick and salty and cooked well.  The dark chocolate, frozen, compliments the saltiness.  It was the perfect treat.

013

011

The fried cheese curds ($6) were lightly breaded in a garlic powder crust and had a nice crunch. 

The cheese was squeaky and good.

010

The char broiled corn is always good.

006 

The Midway is a maze of gadget selling booths.

014

There is a plethora of tempting sights, smells and sounds.

016

 But I was here.  And I had to.

Look at the top ad, next to the Frog Legs, which "taste like chicken".  Yes.  A Zucchini Weeni.

$4.75.  019

020

Good idea.  Poor execution. 021

I admit I have *never* had a corn dog in my life.  The batter on this was not corn though.  It was donut batter.

The hot dog really had no flavor and all of it needed to be dipped in the ranch dressing to have any flavor. 

I had such hopes for this weeni…

017

Instead, go next door for a "Texas Twister"

A deep fried skinned sausage deep fried with a twist of potatoes. ($8)

018

Much more flavorful.

025

Other things we bought included gelato, inside the Bing Crosby Hall.  excellent. (Small, $4)

074

The Indian Fry Bread- strawberry cheesecake.  Fresh fried bread topped with whipped cream cheese, strawberries and whipped cream ($6.50)

080

One chocolate and one vanilla cream puff.  ($3 each).  They make the pastry in the booth daily and the filling is real whipped cream.  This is the only "have to" item I get.   I can't get this fresh anywhere else all year.

079

Artichokes on a stick satisfy that salty craving I have. ($6)

075

As does Pizza on a stick.($4)

023

The Footsie Wootsie machines are scattered everywhere and still only 25 cents for a few minutes of unusual pleasure.

Enjoy the Fair.  It closes this Sunday!

Website Opens 11 a.m. weekdays and 10 a.m. on weekends. 

091

COMC: La Playita

**** La Playita has closed

La Playita has been well covered in two separate posts by the one and only Cathy. But I thought, since it's getting a bit warm out, this would be a nice chance to "COMC" (Clear Out the Memory Card), and do a short post of mostly photos on La Playita.

MoreLaPlayita01   

If you've read the previous posts you'll have good description of La Playita. A little family run shop with, one table, doing most of their business off a counter with six stools.

MoreLaPlayita02  

Most discussions center around two main items served at La Playita, the Ceviche:

MoreLaPlayita04 

MoreLaPlayita09 Which is refreshing, if a bit too heavy on the lime for me.

The other item often discussed are the various Cocktel (Seafood Cocktails), which uses the home made hot sauce concoction as part of it's base.

The Missus's favorite is the Vuelve a la Vida ("Back to Life"), She always goes with the large sized cocktail ($13).

MoreLaPlayita08 

This wonderful seafood ambrosia is topped off with freshly shucked oysters. The only problem was trying to explain to the Missus that it wasn't the seafood that was coming "back to life", but the term is meant to be the effect of this wonderful concoction on the individual. I've read that this cocktail has a history as a hangover remedy, and brought many a bleary eyed, cotton mouthed, individual back to life.

It would be quite easy to stop at this point on the menu.

MoreLaPlayita03 

But I thought you might want to see a few of the other offerings.

The Taco Gobernador ($3), does not quite hold a candle to the version at Mariscos German, but is quite acceptable.

MoreLaPlayita06  

It is a bit less heavy.

The Pescadillas ($3) is a molten fried mixed seafood taco.

MoreLaPlayita07 

The Aguachili ($14), is a large portion of raw shrimp, "cooked" with lime juice, mixed with red onions which add a nice bite. Speaking of bite, everything is covered with a good amount of sweat inducing chili, especially if you order it spicy like I did.

MoreLaPlayita10 

The Caramones a la Diabla (Shrimp Diablo – $14) is a good portion of shrimp sauteed in a spiced up chipotle based sauce.

MoreLaPlayita13 

The colorfully named Pulpo Enamorado – "Octopus in love" (Spicy Octopus – $14) is another dish utilizing a tangy-spicy chipotle based sauce.

MoreLaPlayita14 

Just in case it's a bit too cold for ceviche, one of these dishes will be sure to warm you up. After all wouldn't it be nice to meet up with an Octopus in Love? Well, maybe not……..

Of course, it may never be too cold for Ceviche…..

MoreLaPlayita15 

MoreLaPlayita05

I've always been served seafood of good quality at La Playita.

Don't forget the tostadas and crackers…….

La Playita Seafood
5185 Clairemont Mesa Blvd.
San Diego, CA 92117

04102009 001