February 2013 – Page 2

Djerba (Tunisia): Restaurant de L’ile and it’s Tunisia Night!

February 16, 2013 mmm-yoso North African Food, Seafood, Travel, Tunisia, Tunisian Food

After watching the low keyed fish auction and having a cup of "Cafe Express", it was obviously time for lunch. I had a place in mind….down the streets of the Souk…..

We found Restaurant De L'ile. The place was immaculate…clean and bright in the very Mediterranean way. It was also totally empty for lunch…..perhaps the combination of of "all inclusive" resorts and Arab Spring was having an effect.

The menu had a ton of Tunisian "standards" and toruist dishes….but this was Houmt Souk, on the island of Djerba….we were having seafood.

Things started out with some "amuse/appetizers" to stimulate our appetite and tastebuds.

Along with the standard bread and harissa was a carrot "puree" of sorts…the Missus was ready to hate the stuff, but really enjoyed the spices mixed with a touch of sweetness.

Along with this was a plate of "thon" (tuna) with braised potatoes which was very tasty.

First up was the "salade aux fruits de mer"…..a seafood salad.

Nice, well prepared seafood, nothing fancy, but quite solid.

Then tuna with tomato sauce…..

The tomato sauce had a touch of spiciness and was very tangy. They cooked the fish to death.

If you've read my previous posts on meals in Tunisia, you'd know how much I'd taken to brik, the wonderful deep fried pastry, filled with a fried egg and sometimes seafood. This was the "Brik aux fruits de mer"…the seafood filled brik.

This one wins the "runny egg award"…..I was almost mesmerized by how runny the egg was.

The yolk was profoundly "eggy", reminding me of how eggs used to taste when I was a kid. It was a bit too much for the Missus, though I enjoyed it.

There is of course, the communication barrier, which displayed itself in the calamare….we ordered it "grille", but got it fried. The squid was very tender, thought the batter oily and mushy….oh what could have been.

We finished off with the Octopus in Tomato Sauce. I'm not sure why most of what we have here in the states is like tire rubber. This was quite tender, though not as good as our favorite.

In the end, this was the best restaurant meal we'd had in Tunisia.

After lunch we found a taxi….on the way back to the resort, the Missus saw a pastry shop and had the cabbie stop…..to buy pastries! You know, this being Tunisia, he didn't bat an eye and the Missus bought him a box of confections for his trouble.

We had a nap in the afternoon, went for a walk, and as is our "MO" went to dinner early. After our previous dinner, with the themed "Italian Night", we were curious what "Tunisia Night" would be like.

We peeked out to the patio and saw that the really nice young man…the one who had gotten the Chef de Cuisine to get the Missus some mechouia the night before was working. He waved us over to the little two-top he was waiting on….there was no doubt that we wanted him to be our waiter tonight. We went out and grabbed our plates and when we returned he had created a little bouquet of sorts for our table. This was such a sweet touch…..

And while I felt bad for the folks who had to be "in character" for the dinner……

We also found a dish we really loved…..it was black and tarry looking and was in a container that looked like a flower pot. The flavor however was profound….rich, beefy with some heat, and a tongue coating texture that we found enjoyable. No one seemed to want to eat this stuff….in fact, the Chef de Cuisine came out to talk to us, just because he was happy to see folks enjoy this so much.

It was made with something we had never come across before Molokhia….of course we came home and found the stuff being sold in Nijiya, but at that time this was all new….still is, because we were told this preparation takes two days.

In the end, even though I'm not fond of these "all-inclusive" resorts, we did enjoy our time.

As our cab took us to the airport and back to Tunis, we reflected, not only on the Tunisian Cabbies dream….they all want Cadillacs and Lincoln Towncars….really! But also on how relaxed and kind folks we came across were…..

The Missus’ new favorite restaurant; Sushi Tadokoro

February 14, 2013 mmm-yoso Japanese Restaurants, Sushi and Sashimi

Man, the Missus sure had changed over the last couple of years…..it used to be that She would only go for the Albacore, Hamachi, and Salmon at sushi bars…..and I'd get the "good stuff". But Take-san at Tadokoro has changed all that. The Missus has come to trust him totally….and Take-san has really picked up on what the Missus enjoys and has gotten Her to try things She never would have.

I think it all started with the ankimo. She loves the version here.

And of course the sashimi, which is how we usually start our meals…..

What has really amazed me is how eagerly She'll go for items the She "never knew were so good!"

Like ika……

And tako…..

Culminating in the Missus actually trying Shirako (cod sperm sac) tonight!

Which the Missus loved! This was melt in your mouth soft, with a slight milky edge to it. I'd had it many times…..with it being more often than nought…well terrible. This was very good. I didn't even realize it's Shirako season.

We'll often get a something a bit different, like this hobo (robin-fish) wrapped around ankimo(he knows the Missus loves his version) and scallion with ponzu.

A wonderful contrast of textures……..

Or perhaps some anago broiled over bamboo leaves…..

Which is such a nice surprise when you give yourself over to the man behind the bar.

And of course there are our favorites like engawa, the dorsal fin muscle of hirame (halibut).

Or any number of other "standards" done well……

Take-san paid us a very nice compliment the other evening when he told us, "most people who order Omakase don't really know what that means, but you, you really do."

And it's quite easy when someone understands your taste and still tries to push the envelope a bit when he believes he has something top-notch on hand. This is what makes dining enjoyable. Whether it's a simple bowl of noodles from a stand in Luang Prabang or dinner at Urasawa it's all about experiences, learning, and enjoying. And we've been enjoying Tadokoro quite a bit recently.

Sushi Tadokoro
2244 San Diego Ave
San Diego, CA 92110

Open: Mon – Sat 5pm – 10pm

Like I said before:

Go early for best selection and a more relaxed pace and atmosphere. Even better, make reservations and go early.

San Diego’s Ramen Renaissance Part 2: Tecchan Yakitori and Izakaya

February 13, 2013 mmm-yoso Japanese Restaurants, Ramen

*** Tecchan has closed

Here's one that slipped under my radar…..if it looks familiar, this is the former location of Yakyudori in Hillcrest. Man, yet another shop serving ramen……that's so surprising…..

It's a bit strange for me; I'm not sure if it's really Tec-chan, or is it Tecchan like the sign….well, whatever, I go with what the sign says. I hadn't been here since it was Yakyudori, though I passed by the place when it became Raku, but had never really been motivated.

So what brings me here now? Well my good FOY (Friend of Yoso), "YY" told me that they really enjoy the spicy miso ramen here. Personally, I've never really found a version that I've enjoyed, but if it's good enough for YY, it's well worth a try for me. But I just couldn't find the time to visit. Until Super Bowl Sunday….you see I really wasn't interested in halftime (which seems to get longer every year) and the Ravens seemed to be blowing out the 49ers. So I just jumped in the car to see what was up with this place….they say they open at 6, but were open a bit earlier on this day.

And I did get the Spicy Miso Ramen as instructed, with "thin noodles", which turned out to be your standard issue Hakata style noodles. The price wasn't bad at just over 8 bucks.

First the good; the noodles were done to the al dente, almost crunchy texture I enjoy and the egg was nicely cooked. The chashu pork was mild in flavor, but they had hit a nice balance in texture, not too firm and not falling to pieces….too bad it was ice cold, something that seems to be happening much too often nowadays.

And while this broth was indeed fairly spicy and not as salty as other versions….it really tasted like Japanese Kimchi base. You know, the stuff to make short cut kimchi? It wasn't really my cup of tea……

On the other hand….due to the immensely long halftime and the infamous "lights out", I actually made it back home in time to watch the last half of the 3rd quarter!

After thinking over things….yes, though I may not sprout the "Tao of ramen", or contemplate the meanings of the Hexagrams in I Ching, nor has anyone mistaken me for the "gangster of love" or ever called me "Maurice" (age check here!), I actually do think about what I eat….. I decided to just return and try the straight up tonkotsu ramen.

This time I went with the "flat noodles", which were just your standard issue ramen noodles, but were done up nicely.

The broth seemed a bit light to me. I prefer my tonkotsu a bit more rich. Also, there was a flavor that reminded me of burnt onions that I really didn't enjoy.

It wasn't terrible……but not something I'd go out of my way for.

The service was friendly, though one of the servers here has the kind of voice that makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up. But that's my problem, not hers. I also tried some of the other menu items……but that's for another day.

Tecchan Yakitori and Izakaya
3739 6th Ave
San Diego, CA 92103

San Diego’s Ramen Renaissance Part 1: Revisiting Underbelly

February 12, 2013 mmm-yoso Ramen

It's hard to believe that as little as 3 years ago, I was thrilled to have two basic choices for ramen in San Diego, Santouka and Yakyudori….sorry folks Tajima and Izakaya Masa just didn't cut it for me. It seems that overnight, "ramen-mania" took over…..shades of "burger saturation"! Now of course, it seems that every place is getting into the act. In fact, I've started to separate my ramen into "tiers"; the better quality, usually more expensive, richer, more complex versions are tier 1. The cheaper, get it on the run, rather generic, mostly just for nourishment versions are tier 2. I hope never to have a tier three….well maybe there is a tier 3, I can check my cupboard to see if I might have a package of the stuff in there from the last decade!

I thought I'd do a series of posts on places that have opened over the last year-and-a-half or so, part of what I call the "ramen renaissance". All these are revisits except 1…….so let's start slurping.

The last….and only time I visited Underbelly, I thought it to be over-priced and somewhat underwhelming.

I did think they were trying to serve a good product, so I thought it would be nice to see how things have progressed. I was really happy to see the folding windows/counter were securely bolted down. There's now some outdoor seating, which is a "no-beer zone" as well.

A bunch of folks asked me why I didn't mention the "no spoon" policy at Underbelly. Well, based on history with this group…the no ketchup at Neighborhood, no vodka at Craft and Commerce, the place has this "minus one" type of thing going on. They are into the Paris Hilton school of any buzz, be it negative or positive, is good. A couple of good friends of mine are big fans of this groups restaurants/bars so I always kid them about the next "minus one concept" restaurant they'll be opening…..some examples, "Madison Square Garden", where you get MSG (get it???) laden food, but no water is served, or "Origami" where beautifully folded paper representations of dishes grace the table, but no real food is served…. Okay, well, I've already spent too much time on this.

As before the drill is look over the menu, order and pay at the bar, get a number and grab a seat. At least this day wasn't too windy or cold as this corner can be pretty chilly.

I ordered the Underbelly Ramen and added Beef Brisket, so this rung in at $15…..

The standard Nishimoto Trading noodles were prepared much better this time around, actually attaining a bit of pull. The proteins, even the smoked beef brisket, which didn't taste like it was smoked last time worked well. The egg was wonderfully runny and the chashu was a perfect match of tenderness and flavor.

The broth wasn't quite as oily as my previous visit and was like the atmosphere here, served a bit too cool for my taste. It lacked that tongue-coating richness and didn't have much flavor. Dare I say…bland?

If it's all about the protein for you, I guess you might like Underbelly. Me? Well, I still think there's a hipster ramen upcharge for eating here…..

UnderBelly
750 W. Fir St
San Diego, CA 92101

Las Vegas: Around the Strip and Honey Salt

February 11, 2013 mmm-yoso American/New American Restaurants, Las Vegas, Road Trip

I am without a doubt somewhat of a creature of habit, there are certain "rituals" that I follow……in Vegas after dropping the Missus off, I'll take a walk up and down the strip to see what's new. I'll usually do this in the morning to avoid the crowds. It had been four years since our last trip here and for me, the biggest change was the massive City Center complex…..

Things had shifted a bit since our last visit….there are now a good number of suite-style offerings; larger rooms, small kitchens, away from the hustle, bustle, cigarette smoke, and noise of the casinos.

We actually stayed at the Fairfield, not quite on the strip, good sized rooms, and away enough from it all to kind of chill. It was easy to get to the strip though….the shuttle to the Mandalay Bay, the tram to Excalibur, a short walk through Monte Carlo to the tram station from Aria to the Bellagio…..

Soon enough you're staring at the Paris……

Which was enough time for me to head back and catch the shuttle at New York, New York, back to the Fairfield.

As for lunch; well, I usually go off the strip. I'd heard about a newer place in Summerlin, that did…well, that much too often used description, "farm to table comfort cuisine"……yet it came highly recommended. So I took that 20 minute drive. I'm sure the distance really wasn't that bad, it just seemed that way. The restaurant, named Honey Salt, was tucked away in the corner of a strip mall…..

Looking very unassuming from the outside, this place was really happening….so many "women doing lunch". It reminded me of places I've been in say, Scottsdale or Buckhead in Atlanta….. The Hostess was very nice telling me they would have a table for me in a few minutes….but I opted for the mellow bar area……

Which must have been fate….I asked the bartender if "it's okay if I sit here…." His response? "Eh, you from Hawaii, huh?" We call "Vegas" the "9th Island", so many visit and so many have moved there…you can't help but run into someone from "home". And once he introduced himself as "Bozo"…..I knew he was the real deal. This was going to be a great lunch……regardless of the food.

Anyway, beyond the pleasantries…..there were many of the typical, "whea' you from" discussions…, eventually things headed to the menu. I had a couple of things in mind, Harissa crusted strip steak salad and Big Eye Tuna Tartar with Crunchy Quinoa came to mind. But MrB told me the two most popular dishes, at least on his watch, which led me to order items I would never had considered.

Starting with the Turkey Meatballs ($9)…….really, turkey meatballs, when was the last time I ordered these? Try never…..

Caramelized onions and a touch of horseradish added some sweetness and pungency. And though the acid was a bit too much, I gotta say, these were the most moist and tender turkey meatballs I've ever had…literally melting in my mouth. You could easily have mistaken them for veal.

For my main, Bozo told me the Biloxi Buttermilk Fried Chicken Sandwich ($13) was the best seller.

The chicken was very moist, though I would have appreciated a bit more "crunch" to it. The brioche was mildly buttery without being too sweet. The slaw completed without overpowering and added a bit more texture to the sandwich.

Actually, I really enjoyed the salad….the kale and edamame really balanced things out…to the utter joy of the Missus who eats and juices kale by the bushel.

I actually enjoyed the food here more than Urban Solace……

Of course, during our meal, another "Bruddah" stopped by for take-out….what can you say? In the end this was a nice meal made better by eating at the bar and talking to another ex-pat Kama'aina and also the young lady from South Africa who convinced Bruddah Bozo (in slang that means "Boy"), a third generation "Bozo", that he needed to check out Lotus of Siam soon. I also got a nice tip on grabbing some poke too…….

Honey Salt
1031 S Rampart Blvd
Las Vegas, NV 89145

Happy Lunar New Year……and some photos from Spicy House

February 10, 2013 mmm-yoso Blog

Both the Missus and I had to work this year, so not much going on. For some reason, we seem to end up in Vegas close to the Lunar New Year……this is the third time. Anyway, the Bellagio always does a nice Chinese New Year set-up in the atrium. This is a from our visit a couple of weeks ago. As you can see, it's the year of the snake.

And…..because this is a food blog, we do need some some food photos, right? MrS treated us to a nice meal at Spicy House. It was great seeing "YY", MrQ, MrS, and especially Akira, whom I haven't seen in a while.

Spicy House
3860 Convoy Street #105
San Diego, CA 92111

Anyway, whether you say it xin nian kuai le (新年快樂), chúc mừng năm mới, or some other way, we just want to send you our best wishes for a great year!

COMC: Never made the cut edition

February 8, 2013 mmm-yoso Hot Dogs, Korean Restaurants, Thai Restaurants, Vietnamese Restaurants

Just C(learing)O(ut the)M(emory)C(ard) time again. Here are a bunch of dishes that never quite made the cut for one reason or another.

Along with not making the cut for a post, these were rather "undelicious" if there is such a word.

Anyway, here goes……

This Banh Xeo looked plastic……

And pretty much tasted it……

Since folks already know I'm not a fan….I don't feel like rubbing it in.

Even one of our favorite Korean Restaurants is not immune. This Kimchi Pajun was greasy, soggy, and tasted off.

So is our favorite Thai place…. This Spicy Shrimp Fried Rice was indeed spicy; more like 10 then the 5 I ordered.

It was like the rice had just been passed quickly through oil….though the shrimp were very nice.

They called these "Italian Ribs".

They were as tough as they looked……

This Combination Egg Noodle Soup cost eight bucks………and was quite bad.

Even beyond looking like stuff was just thrown into the soup, the broth was lukewarm and the noodles strangely mushy.

Meet a $7 TJ Hot Dog.

So much stuff!

This Bo Luc Lac, was Beef no luck….tough and really salty.

Well…..that's it…..not much, I know.

I hope everyone had a great week!

I think it's time for a "guilty pleasure" run.

Curly Jones Cafe- when the traffic is bad, take the exit. (Norwalk)

February 7, 2013 Cathy American/New American Restaurants, Breakfast/Brunch, Road Trip, What Cathy Eats!

Here you are, back at mmm-yoso!!! This blog is about food. Sometimes, like today, it's a diary of why, where and what. Other days it's blog/diary about who, when and how as well as hundreds of other combinations of those interrogatives. Kirk is busy, ed (from Yuma) is also busy; Cathy is writing.

One recent weekend, The Mister and I were headed North and hit a terrible patch of traffic somewhere on the older (three lane section) of Interstate 5 just past Disneyland. Since I would rather be moving than just idling in traffic, we took the closest exit and drove the surface roads, trying to parallel the freeway. At some point we saw this building and signage.

Of course the car went straight to the parking lot. When we walked in, the grill and counter seating were to the right and tables and booths to the left. It was crowded, but a few tables were empty (There weren't two seats together at the counter).

There must be a fascinating story behind this place, but it wasn't written inside the menu. The customers all seemed to be locals and our waitress made it a point to welcome us 'strangers' warmly. The interior was a mishmash of decorating styles and photos of that didn't happen. The menu choices were also a bit of a mishmash.

The menu had a few Greek, Italian and Mexican selections, a lot of American/Diner selections and the above Homemade chili section. Since we may not ever find our way back here, we had to order what we may never get a chance to order again…

Eggs and chili ($6). Probably the best chili I've ever tasted. No beans (of course) meaty, spicy (I could detect cinnamon, garlic and cumin and the chili heat level was pleasant). Homemade. The chili was rich and almost like smooth chocolate…a mole of sorts. Poured over nicely scrambled eggs topped with cheese, served with the garlic bread. (I asked for onions on the side -and that bowl appeared with the plate-). This was wonderful and the new thing I learned that day – chili goes with eggs.

Just as wonderful was the chalkboard special of machaca and eggs ($7). Beef, onions, peppers, tomatoes along with more spices (I tasted garlic, oregano and cumin) cooked long and slow into a great stew until the beef falls apart, creating machaca. The stewed meat and vegetables were cooked in a pan with eggs. It was served with really good beans and rice as well as tortillas and a homemade salsa. Wonderful.

A great find, all because of traffic. I hope someday you have gridlock turn out as well.

Curly Jones Cafe 13220 San Antonio Norwalk, CA 90650 Open until 2 or 3 p.m. daily. (562)864-4399

The Original Sab E Lee – Rancho Penasquitos

February 5, 2013 mmm-yoso Thai Restaurants

Where does time go? In some ways, it seems like it was just yesterday that Sab E Lee opened in Linda Vista. But that was almost five years ago. I knew after our first meal that the place was a "keeper", a Thai restaurant that wasn't afraid to give you a taste of Issan, the fresh, bright flavors, and burning spice. I still recall the pleasure of having my first Koi Soi in six or so years, on the day Koby finally was able to source the beef he wanted. I recall taking Josh Silberman, former writer for City Beat, along with my good buddy Candice (then writer for City Beat) and getting the Koi Soi at heat level "10"…..watching Josh turn red, then purple, sweat pouring down his face which seemed to be swelling, him telling me, "it hurts….but I just can't stop!" Such good times. After the late Naomi Wise wrote, "At Last True Thai", the place literally blew up…..you had to choose your times well at the tiny five table joint. Still, it couldn't have happened to a group of nicer folks. Of course time does keep on moving on, Koby sold his share of the Linda Vista location to the folks running the place to open Sab E Lee in Santee, then in turn selling his share of that place to move on to destination unknown. Before you knew it, Jay, a fixture at the Linda Vista location had moved back to Thailand. Good things the cooks were still in place. Since then, it seems that the young folks running the front of house changed from time to time and it became basically a place for take-out. Other than seeing and chatting with the cooks, I really lost my connection with the now slightly renamed Original Sab E Lee. So I was caught off guard when "KevinK" mentioned that a location of the Original Sab E Lee was opening in Rancho Penasquitos which I just had to check out. I was told the projected grand opening, but had a packed schedule. I thought that having a group of us get together would be nice; especially since our good friends TFD and MrC live up in San Marcos and always make a point of coming to see us. It would only be fair to meet them halfway.

Instead of going forward, you may want to read any number of posts from San Diego Food Bloggers, who have eaten there. The menu is basically the same as the location on Linda Vista. This restaurant seat about 50 and was pretty packed by the time we left.

Several of the folks running the front of house recognized me when I came by….what was even more funny was when Maylee came out……you see we were pretty much all regulars at TOSEL, but had rarely eaten together. She was shocked and pleasantly surprised that we all knew each other.

As for the food….well, I was honored to be given the job of doing most of the ordering. TFD wanted Seafood Tom Yum and I knew that while MrC could handle "Lao spicy", which on the scale of 1-10 is a 12; MrQ has been known to order a heat level of "1", which wasn't going to fly. Still I ordered items at a mixed heat level. Actually, you could read any number of my former posts on the Linda Vista location as well.

We got a couple of orders of Issan Sausage to start:

A nice standby, not made inhouse, but I love the slightly fermented sour flavor.

The Grilled Duck Larb at heat level 5 was very well done on this day.

Though well spiced, the flavor of the duck came through quite well. This is one of those dishes that reminds me of Thailand….the textures; melt-in-your mouth is not meant for a dish like larb, it has to have texture.

The Salted Fish Fried Rice, the strong and heady fragrance, belies a wonderfully savory flavor.

This was very good.

The Pad See Eew with Shrimp displayed the wok hey that I experienced on my very first visit to Sab E Lee way back when.

The carb dishes were leading the way it seems…..

The Seafood Tom Yum, at a spice level 5 seemed like the most spiciest dish of the day.

MrQ did us proud as he handled the Koi Neua at a heat level 7.

We always count on Candice to provide the liquid refreshment…..which goes great with this dish. Spicy, nutty, with the wonderful raw beef texture…add in the the flavor of the herbs and you've got a nice dish.

Just for memories sake, I ordered the Naked Shrimp, though only at heat level 8. This was the dish that MrC had us order at "Lao spicy" which caused first degree burns around our lips once. We weren't going there this time.

This raw shrimp dish was a bit drier than what I recalled, lacking in the galangal and other herbs and citrus which elevate the heat. I did enjoy the slices of bittermelon as a nice tannic counter-point to the chilies.

Compared to what I've had at TOSEL on previous visits, the Catfish Larb was quite mild in flavor. Perhaps ordering it at a heat level 5 affected things.

As things were winding down, we were treated to a nice surprise from the kitchen……

A sampling of ice cream and sticky rice with mango from the kitchen, gratis…….such a nice gesture.

Service was as good as can be expected for a new restaurant. The front of house was friendly and accommodating. The real winners on this day was the duck larb and the salted fish fried rice….actually, since the food was pretty much what we expected from TOSEL, I'd say that we were the real winners. Though we often think of Rancho Penasquitos as being a universe away from us, it's only about 12 miles. The Missus and I will probably drop by again one day soon.

The Original Sab-E-Lee
13223-2 Black Mountain Rd
San Diego, CA 92129

Las Vegas: Lotus of Siam Four (12) Years Later

February 4, 2013 mmm-yoso Las Vegas, Thai Restaurants, Travel

Perhaps I should have titled this post, "LOS Twelve Years Later" because that's how long we've been coming to Lotus of Siam. No trip to Vegas would be complete without a visit to the rather worn strip mall on East Sahara Avenue…….according to my friends, "where cabs don't mind dropping you off, but don't like picking you up." Based on our last meal here almost four years ago, our expectations were high.

We had wondered how time had changed LOS and the answer was easy enough to find. First, Bill Chutima, who owns and runs LOS along with his wife and chef Saipin Chutima is quite the oenophile. There's now a rather large collection of wine on display as you enter. An even bigger difference is that the space next door has been taken over, doubling the size of the restaurant. Even with double the space, hordes of people are still waiting in line at LOS……at least from what we saw on this evening. At least two mini-vans dropped off groups of folks to eat…….all this on a Thursday. Good thing we were on our way out the door when they arrived.

We're always torn when eating at LOS. We want to try out new dishes, but also stick with our favorites from previous visits. Usually, sticking with favorites wins out.

Our main server on this night was the wonderful and warm Mai. Friendly without being overbearing, he enjoyed discussing food, especially Thai food both in the US and Thailand with us. He was a great ambassador for LOS.

The Missus wanted something light and refreshing to start. So we ordered the Soft Shell Crab Salad ($18.95).

Whomever fried this deserves a raise…..the crab was excellent, light and ethereal, with just the perfect crunch. I'm not a big fan of fruits in salads, but here, the green apple did a nice job of adding an additional layer of tartness, without interfering with the overall balance of the dish. In other words, the soul of the dish was unmistakably Thai. It was a great start to our meal…..

Unfortunately, those heights were never quite reached again. Of course we ordered the Koi Soy ($13.95). I just had to have it. LOS was the first place I'd ever had this wonderful raw beef "salad" back in 2002 and it is my benchmark for the dish.

We knew something was off when the dish arrived…..there seemed to be a lot less roasted rice powder, which added great texture and a mild nuttiness to the dish. Some of the pieces of the beef were quite hard and chewy, something I had never experienced with the Koi Neua at LOS. There was a ton of cilantro, but I couldn't taste kaffir lime leaf. You can just compare this with the what we had four years ago below….. This is still good, but not nearly as wonderful as what we've had during previous visits.

Another signature dish at LOS is a Crispy Duck with Chili Mint Leaves ($20.95).

This didn't measure up well either. While the duck was wonderfully fried, there seemed to be a paucity of sauce, which also tasted off, the balance of salt and sweet just didn't seem right. It also looked pretty sloppy with sauce dripping off the side of the plate. Again, this was not a bad dish, the frying was carried out to perfection, it just wasn't as good as before.

Again, another photo from the files.

I mentioned that the restaurant on the other side of LOS had closed down to Mai and joked that the next time we're back they'll have taken over that space as well. His answer was quite interesting. We were told that they now typically do about 400 covers on a good weeknight and sometimes up to 450-500 during the weekend. The restaurant space had been expanded, but the kitchen had not. I began wondering if LOS had not become a victim of its own success?

Didn't have much time to contemplate this as our next two dishes arrived. We had been missing Lanna style Thai. Not so much the Khao Soi, but more of the "dips" which we call "Nam Prik" type dishes. So we ordered first the Nam Prik Hed (Spicy Mushroom Dip – $9.95):

This was another dish that was fine, but didn't hit the same heights as what we've had here before. This was much too sour and the mushrooms too chewy. Sad really, since we really enjoyed it last time – see the photo on the right.

The Nam Prik Noom (Green Chili Dip – $9.95) was good, even though we ordered everything at a heat level '7', this one really brought it to the table.

Loved having this with sticky rice or with some of the light pork rinds. Smokey, with a pernicious burn, I'm thinking my heat tolerance has gone down over the last couple of years.

As I repeated many times, this wasn't a bad meal by any stretch of the imagination. It is indeed better than anything in San Diego. And while newer or first time visitors may think this is fantastic, the bar had been set on our many visits over the years. We know how good the food can, and had been…..and this wasn't it. Remember, Jonathan Gold, back when he used to post on Chowhound, called this the best Thai Restaurant in North America. The Missus was more disappointed than I was. We had just plain wonderful service, so I'm hoping that this was just an "off" night. Now I'll have to try and convince the Missus of that.

Lotus of Siam
953 E. Sahara Ave
Las Vegas, NV 89104
(702)735-3033