March 2014 – Page 2

Fermentation Nation: Doing the Sriracha-cha-cha

March 20, 2014 mmm-yoso Cooking, Recipes

Ah yes, Sriracha. I know folks who even dip into their Pho without adding it….though I've always wondered how they intuitively knew how much of the stuff to dump in their broth having not even tasted it! Ditto Hoisin sauce.

Sriracha has been everywhere over the last couple of years, you could say it's become a staple. Most of us are most familiar with the ubiquitous Huy Fong Foods brand…..aka "Rooster" brand. Though most don't even know that Sriracha is named after the town of Si Racha in Thailand. The Sriracha that Huy Fong Food produces has the kind of branding folks dream of; it has been ingrained in the eating consciousness of many folks I know. When the Sriracha factory in Irwindale was shut down…..Google sriracha crises and see all the links that pop up…..Huffington Post? Washington Post? The Boston Globe? You could actually read about the possible shutdown on your favorite news site, right under "Dow gains 500 points"? Ok, enough of that, but if you're still interested and have an extra five bucks you can download Sriracha, the Movie, here.

I was actually toying with making my own Sriracha, since the Rooster brand was originally made with serranos, and we were growing some in the back yard. Unfortunately, I could never get the quantity that I wanted, about 500 grams, at one time. A week ago, I saw red jalapenos on sale at Zion Market…..3 pounds for 99 cents! I understand that Huy Fong Foods made a switch over to red jalapenos a while back…so why not….for 35 cents or so????

I wanted to use what I had at home, while still sticking to the five ingredients in classic Sriracha – peppers, garlic, salt, sugar, and vinegar. There were two basic different ways I'd read about with regards to making the sauce; the fresh, and the fermented methods. Well, you know which one I picked, right? I put the jar of the stuff right alongside our next batch of Suan Cai fermenting in the hallway. Overall, the ingredients for this small batch of Sriracha costs less than a buck….really!

Sriracha:

450-500 grams red jalapenos
20 grams turbinado sugar
4 grams Kosher salt
20 grams garlic
1/3 cup White Distilled Vinegar

– Stem the peppers, slice in half and remove seeds.

– Place peppers, sugar, salt, and garlic in a food processor and process until very finely chopped.

– Pour into a sterilized jar and cover, but not too tightly. Sit in a dark area at room temperature.

– You'll notice that the solids will separate from he liquids daily….you'll also notice the wonderful smell of garlic dancing around the area you ferment the chilies. Don't worry, it's worth it.

– Open the jar daily and mix well with a sterilized spoon. You'll quickly notice the fermentation process is taking place. I tasted it daily.

– I believe you can leave out for a week, stirring daily, but after four days, it seemed that the sauce had started developing some nice flavors and was actually starting to mellow. The fermentation also provided a nice mild pickled flavor.

– I know we lose the benefit of fermentation when we cook something, but I poured into a pan, added the vinegar, and reduced over medium high heat for about 5-6 minutes. At this point, you can taste and adjust salt and even sugar.

– I poured the contents into a blender and buzzed it for about 3-4 minutes.

– Strain the contents, there will be a tablespoon or two of pulp that just won't make it. You can discard it…or even better reserve and use it for a stir fry!

That's the last of my Ghost Pepper Louisiana Style Hot Sauce on the left; the Sriracha on the right. Some of the folks I gave the hot sauce to last year are asking for more….it'll probably be a couple of months at least.

As for the Sriracha, I thought I added a good amount of garlic, as it teeters on the edge for me. The Missus thinks it needs more. We'll see when I fry up some chicken this weekend!

Roadtrip: Koi Palace (Daly City) 17 years later

March 19, 2014 mmm-yoso Chinese Restaurants, Dim Sum, Road Trip, San Francisco and Silicon Valley

In 1996 I had a meal that changed my view of dim sum. I had grown up eating the typical, run of the mill stuff back home in Honolulu, siu mai, char siu bao, blah, blah, blah…..I was in San Francisco, had a car, and decided to visit this new (at that time) Chinese Restaurant that was supposed to be "possibly" the best in the country. Hyperbole? Perhaps. But I'll say this much, that visit to Koi Palace changed the way I looked at dim sum, in terms of quality, flavor, and how things were put together. I'd longed to return. In fact, I once mentioned Koi Palace to a supposed "foodie", who looked at me, laughed, and said, you're "the only person I know who wants to go to Daly City and eat"….such was the depth and breath of much of San Diego when I arrived here in 2001. Gladly, much has changed since then…..and so have I. So when we made plans for this little road trip, I really wanted to see Koi Palace circa 2013. I also wanted to share that experience with the Missus.

We arrived just before opening. Folks were already milling around just inside the door. When they started seating, all the "Popo's" pushed to the front of the crowd….it was chaos; though controlled chaos, as the host had kept track of who was in line and ignored the folks who cut in front of the line.

17, almost 18 years, is a lot of water under the bridge, and I have to say the place really shows its age; dark, somewhat dank, scuffed tables…well, I felt right at home. The Missus on the other hand, "the best dim sum in the states, huh?"

We started things off with the Steamed Shrimp Dumpling with XO Sauce:

In many ways this was just perfect; the shrimp plump, full of flavor, steamed to perfection, the XO sauce added that wonderful, deep savory flavor….the much over-used "umami". My biggest problem with this were the wrappers, too thick, too sticky, and falling to pieces when you picked it up with chopsticks….the juices leaked onto the table….of course, this is Koi Palace, so they just placed the next dish right on the oil slick.

I have a rule, "never order Xiao Long Bao at a Cantonese Dim Sum chop", but I broke that rule after seeing Crab Roe Xiao Long Bao on the menu. And I'm glad I did.

This was very good. The dough was just chewy enough, the filling had a wonderful balance of sweetness, which wasn'y cloying, along with pork tones. There was enough "soup" to keep me happy. And yes, you definitely could taste the crab in this. I'm glad we ordered it.

We also ordered the Seafood Pan Fried Noodles, which was good, but not great.

The cooking technique of the seafood was excellent….down to the the oft mishandled squid which was very tender. The sauce/gravy was really bland and there was too little of it and some parts of the noodles were hard instead of crisp.

The Turnip Cakes were average.

The texture was too gummy, like too much flour was used. Not much flavor; I think we make better at home, though that XO sauce that came with it was killer……

The other dish that was "killer", though not in a good way was the Cheong Fun with Fried Fish Filet. It sounded like a good idea, but was a mistake in retrospect.

I've noticed this fad recently, especially at Sichuan Restaurants where fish filets are being coated with a sweet flour, that reminds me of artificially sweet cake mix. It's not a pleasant flavor to us and this was no exception. I'm not sure if anyone else has noticed that. The sauce(balanced salty and sweet) and the rice flour roll(thin and of perfect texture) were excellent, but that fish and the batter was just not our thing.

Things ended on a high note though, as you can see.

This wonderful example of porky beauty is the Koi Palace Suckling Pig. It ain't cheap at $18, but I'd pay that much just for the skin, which was just spot on, perfect in texture….light, crisp, swiney deliciousness. The meat itself was on the chewy side, but the pork flavor was just so good. I hadn't eaten swine so good since we got back from Pork-u-all, ummm Portugal. This is the real deal…..

I think the place needs to be freshened up a bit, that carpet looks like it hasn't been cleaned since 1996. Perhaps more effort goes into their other location(s).The service was pretty good, efficient, non-intrusive……

As to what the Missus thought about Koi Palace, "I expected more, I think Sea Harbour in Rosemead is better…." I read some time ago that Jonathan Gold was of the opinion that Koi Palace was the best "Hong Kong style restaurant in the US"…..or something like that. Personally, I'm not so sure…..but that suckling pig was really good….

But in response to the person who made that remark about Daly City all those years ago, "yes, Daly City is a great spot to find good eats; just ask the hundreds of thousands who've been to Koi Palace."

Koi Palace
365 Gellert Blvd
Daly City, CA 94015

Revisits – Keeping Cool While Turning Up the Heat: Spicy City and Buga

March 18, 2014 mmm-yoso Chinese Restaurants, Korean Restaurants

I've been fighting this head cold for the last couple of days…….my head aches, I keep coughing, I sound like Barry White; though a phlegmy, very unromantic version….. Soup seems like the most obvious remedy, but man, it's been pretty warm. For some reason, I wanted something with a bit of spice, so……..

Spicy City:

I've been back a couple of time since my last post and it seems like gone to a change of ownership a couple of times too???? Or is it that they just can't hang on to a chef?

Still, it had been a while, maybe two years or so since I last stepped through those doors and laid my arms on those sticky table covers.

Having a cold hasn't dampened my appetite, though the coughing fits have.

I started with a nice variety of Liang Cai – cold dishes:

the pig ears were the best item; you don't have to worry too much about the flavoring; it's about prepping and cutting it at the right thickness. This was nice a crunchy. The flavoring for the cucumbers was kind of weak and listless and the Fu Qui Fei Pian was cut too thickly, lacking Sichuan peppercorn, and was really weak in the flavor department.

I just wanted something to wake up my tastebuds and went with one of my "comfort dishes" – Sichuan Liang Mian – Sichuan Cold Noodles.

First the good, nice heat, the texture of the noodles was decent. Now, the not so good; the sauce was really thin and runny, lacking in the "good stuff", (i.e. sesame paste, black vinegar). There was a ton of peanuts though…… Just mediocre overall.

Spicy City Chinese Restaurant
4690 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111

Buga:

I was just trying to get my sinuses cleared up and though some Bibim Naengmyun might do the job, so it was off to Buga.

I gotta say, even though the panchan isn't even close to what it was during Buga's heyday, it was still much better than it was during our last visit.

The Missus, as is Her habit, ordered the Yukwe Bi Bim Bap, which now comes with rice on the side. Do you notice another change?

Compare it with the photo here and tell me if you notice a difference? Yep, no more raw egg…I'm wondering if the DOH came down on them or what?

My Naengmyun was flavored well…….

Decent spice, savory, sweet, sour….but those darned noodles were way under prepared…..I'm used to the nice stretchy starch noodles, but man, this was like trying to eat rubber-bands….nicely flavored rubber-bands….but still.

Anyway, the Missus enjoyed Her dish, me, well, I've had better here. But I left with my sinuses a bit less congested, for a short while.

Buga Korean Restaurant
5580 Clairemont Mesa Blvd.
San Diego, CA 92117

Speaking of Barry White….well, we were speaking of Barry White weren't we?

After all, it's always a good time for a little Barry White, right?

Mariscos Monday: The Mariscos Nine Seas Truck

March 17, 2014 mmm-yoso Food Trucks, Mexican Restaurants, Seafood

**** The Mariscos Nine Seas Truck is no longer

I'd been wanting to try out the Mariscos Truck in Hipster Land for a while……that would be Mariscos Nine Seas which is located in the parking lot of Gala Foods and across the street from South Park Abbey.

I really like the "seating area", chairs to sit and stools for tables…..kind of neat.

I also quickly noticed that the menu was basically in English, amking it very gringo friendly. No pretense at the customer base it seems. That Baja Trio seemed like a decent way of tasting a decent range of items, the shrimp, fish taco, and the smoked fish, so I decided on that. It did take me a while to order….for some reason, even when I tried calling into the window; the woman working didn't hear me. It wasn't until one of the guys walked out the door and noticed me that I got my order taken.

Anyway, I had my seat until my tacos were ready. I did notice that the guys who came after me were given consomme; but I wasn't, kind of strange. I'm sure I could have asked for it, but since I had three tacos coming, if they were good, I'd be back……

I wasn't a big fan of the tortillas which were crumbly and bland. The best of the bunch was the shrimp; which were plump and juicy and handled the simple batter quite well. The flavoring was simple, though bland. The fish taco was decently flavored, the batter a bit too light, and the fish kind of slimy, what's with all the watery crema nowadays. Also, even tohugh it was 11am nad they open at 930, they seemed ill prepared….I had to ask for napkins, salsa, there was no cebollas, no limes…….

Tacos de Marlyn is one of my favorites….I love the combination of smoke, saltiness, and the flavor of the fish. This however, was probably the worst version I've ever had….it lacked a decent smoke flavor and was terribly fishy….I'm no shrinking violet; I've eaten fish curd and what they call "fish poo", but this just didn't taste right. I went back to the truck and asked for a "salsa picante" something spicy to see if that would fix tihngs….it didn't…I dumped it.

I'm guessing a lot of folks love this truck…..I'll pass.

The Mariscos Nine Seas Truck
3030 Grape St
San Diego, CA 92102

Oaks Bar and Grill (Carlton Oaks Golf Course, Santee)

March 16, 2014 Cathy American/New American Restaurants, What Cathy Eats!

mmm-yoso!!! is the name of this food blog. Kirk, Ed(fromYuma) and Cathy take turns writing about food and related adventures. Today, it's Cathy's turn.

Just down the street from home is the only public Pete Dye Designed golf course in our large County. Open from dawn until dusk, the Carlton Oaks Golf Course, as well as the accompanying restaurant (Oaks Bar & Grill), is a very nice, local place.

When you walk from this parking lot, down some stairs and straight through the building, you see these views. Yes, this is Santee, a small City just East of San Diego City.

The parking lot view just doesn't do it justice.

The bar at the West end of the indoor eating area is large.

There is a chalkboard listing daily specials.

There are televisions everywhere, showing various sports. That doorway leads out to the exclusive swimming pool.

Which you can peek at when walking in from the parking lot.

There is a 'regular' as well as a 'Meat' menu given to you when you sit down.

On this day, we chose from the 'regular' menu. The half spinach salad (which is made with glazed toasted pecans, a (more solid) cow's milk Feta and a choice of Granny Smith apples or strawberries) ($6) was something I wanted. The house made vinaigrette on the side is very complimentary.

I also ordered a cup of the "Firehouse chili" ($4), (because I seem to be ordering some everywhere lately). It came with onions on the side, Vermont made (really good) oyster crackers and was topped with cheese. The beef, pinto and kidney beans and fresh spices were a tasty combination. {As an aside, I was asked if I wanted the salad or chili first; a nice, professional touch.}

The Mister ordered a Club Sandwich on wheat ($10) which included a choice of tots, salad or onion rings. You can see what he chose. This sandwich was really good, with crispy lettuce and fresh tomatoes, the toasted bread was very good and the plethora of bacon, turkey and cheese was very complimentary. Those onion rings were wonderful; freshly made, crispy and a very sweet onion.

All in all, a nice lunch on a beautiful day.

Oaks Bar and Grill 9200 Inwood Drive (at Carlton Oaks Boulevard) Santee 92071 (619) 448-4242 menu

Amazing Camarones (shrimp) in Paredoncito (Benito Juarez, Sonora)

March 15, 2014 mmm-yoso Mexico, Seafood, Sonora, Mexico, Travel

After a recuperative breakfast at Taquería Jiménez, we headed out with "D" and did some errands…..like hit the mall and stuff. By the time we returned to the hotel, Samuelo had recovered, and soon enough "D" Dad picked us up and we headed to the family compound in an small fishing village named Paredoncito, located at an estuary on the Gulf of California.

Walk to the back of the compound and this is what you see…..an amazing sight.

Horse drawn carts were ferrying people and shellfish back and forth from the boats. I think they must have a clam factory next door…… Mainly because I was literally standing on a mountain of clam shells!

And this had just been brought over……

Those had actually been prepped for one of the dishes.

The first thing that came out was this…….

This has got to be some of the best shrimp I've ever had! Samuelo was totally in heaven…..Sweet, so tender, so full of flavor.

They also wanted us to try the local chile peppers which were piquins….these tiny peppers are hot, but not unbearable.

The aguachile that came out next was just plain amazing….

They really didn't mess around with this, it was simple, lime juice, salt, onion, and some hot sauce……man this was good. Probably the best I've ever had. I'll never look at aguachile the same again.

After stuffing our selves silly with shrimp, tostadas, etc, etc…..

I headed out back.

There was something mesmerizing about watching the boats come in and go back out….then things slowed down as the sun began to set. It was very beautiful in its own way.

Soon enough, "D"'s Dad said the magic words…"vamos"!

It was time for us to pack up and head back to Ciudad Obregon……

For….would you believe it….dinner????

Roadtrip: Shopping Edition – Crystal Springs Produce and The Gourmet Corner – San Mateo

March 13, 2014 mmm-yoso Markets & Grocers, Road Trip, San Francisco and Silicon Valley

One thing I really enjoyed about our post Thanksgiving Roadtrip was the theme….it really wasn't planned, but much of it revolved around food in one way or another……we ended up in San Bruno for two nights. San Mateo is close enough and we ended up going market-hopping. There are places where I didn't really take the time out to take photos; Nijiya and Whole Paycheck in San Mateo, but here's a couple of other places we stopped at while just checking things out:

Crystal Springs Produce:

I had read about tis place and thought it might be a nice stop. I didn't quite know where it was and the irony of the location and where we were was to evident in our selection for dinner, which was basically right across the street, though we didn't know it at the time.

The shop is not very big and you can't really do all your shopping here, but this is one of those places that every neighborhood should have; a nice selection of local, organic, with a nice selection of European products.

The Missus was especially interested in the Sardines and tinned Seafood, having been to Portugal earlier in the year.

The Missus was obsessed with apples at this time; She hoarded them, Jazz Apples, Crimson Gold, Blakc Arkansas……we added to the collection here…..

Remember those" I went to xxxx and all I got to show for it was this t-shirt", well, I went to NorCal and all I got to show for it was a bunch of apples…..

This was a nice shop, every neighborhood should have one of this quality; though I gotta say, the young man manning the counter treated me like he was doing me a favor by ringing me up……

Crystal Springs Produce
770 Polhemus Rd
San Mateo, CA 94402

The Gourmet Corner:

I'd actually heard about this shop a while back.

When we entered, it looked like what I'd call a "box wine shop"…..

With a nice selection of canard products. I mean, I really wish I had room for a six pack of duck confit!

Things really didn't click for us until one of the guys working here said, "we've got lots of other stuff in the back" and opened the door……

While there wasn't anything amazing…..think of this as the "Smart and Final" of French ingredients.

I was tempted to ask "Pardon me, would you have any Grey Poupon?"

Some of it was quite good……

Some of it was meh……

Still, I'd really love a shop like this in San Diego….though I'm not sure we could support it. The gentleman at the front counter told me that a good majority of the duck products went to Canada and I later saw some of it a Surfas. I was also told that I "should have come here before the foie gras ban"

I really enjoyed this stop.

The Gourmet Corner
873 N San Mateo Dr
San Mateo, CA 94401

The Missus’ three current favorite places, in photos

March 12, 2014 mmm-yoso American/New American Restaurants, Breakfast/Brunch, Burgers, Mexican Restaurants, yoso-silly

Let's see if you can figure them out…..I'm pretty sure that "Hao" will have no problem!

1: This is the easiest one.

2: If you're a regular reader, this one won't be much of a challenge either……

3: This one is the toughest, but still not difficult. I'm not a big fan of the rabbit here……

So there you go. I'll update these with the places some time tomorrow.

Circling back to Dumpling Inn

March 11, 2014 mmm-yoso Chinese Restaurants, Xiao Long Bao

There are a handful of restaurants that I've been kind of down on for the last couple of years and Dumpling Inn is one of them. My last couple of visits a couple of years ago just weren't satisfying and the the restaurant's namesake….namely Jiaozi went severely downhill after the owner opened, then sold the Dragon's Den. Even before then, the only dumpling worth my while at Dumpling Inn was the shrimp and chive version…..of course, the Missus, with Her QingDao heritage won't touch any of the jiaozi here with a ten foot pole(though She tells me I'm more picky than She is)….my coworker "YZ" once even told me, "you know, that's really NOT Chinese food….." And yet, the place is beloved by many….though I will say, I did not see a single Chinese customer during any of my three visits. I'm sure they come here, but I never saw a single one. Still, I thought I really needed to circle back here and give the place an honest try……

And I thought the Shrimp and Chive Jiaozi was the way to go, which is over eight bucks now ($8.25).

So where to start…..I usually begin with the wrapper, but why not go to the miniscule amount of filling in these….very bland, even with chives, it's literally the size of a dime. I'm going to start calling this place "Dime-pling Inn". The wrappers were too gummy for my tastes are really not very good.

Then there's the Xiao Long Bao ($7.75), which folks rave about…..which is actually better than any of the jiaozi.

Dough has that uneven, sometime's hard texture of something that's been frozen for a bit. The top of the folds are hard, not enough soup, quite bland, if this is the best that San Diego has to offer……..

I'd rather hold out for one of my trips to the SGV……

Black vinegar is not the standard here, you need to ask for it. They treat it like elixir of the gods. As soon as you pour some into the dish, they immediately whisk it away….kind of funny actually.

Still, I know someone who loves this place and during a discussion he convinced me to really give it a try here, putting aside all manner of dumplings and actually try some of cooked dishes. Fair enough, so I went with the dish he considers the best here on my next visit, the Sea Bass with Black Bean Sauce, now this is "lunch size", but not really what I consider "lunch priced" at $9.75.

First the fish, the batter was kind of greasy, like it was fried in oil at too low a temp. The fish was moist and tender though. My big question is "where's the black bean sauce"? There was so little of it, you can easily see that whomever made this didn't coat the fish very well. Vegetables almost raw. However, as a consolation prize, the rice was perfect. In total, on the bland side……

Still, I decided to give it one more go….this time ordering one dish I'd really enjoyed on previous visits and another I'd never had here.

First something on the menu I'd never had Satay Lamb with Chinese Greens ($12.75).

The Sa Cha sauce was really mild, lacking in a deep savory flavor that I like. Nice good portion of Gailan, done well. The lamb was "wok'd" quite well, very tender, but this was really too mild for my taste. Still, this was the best dish I had overall……

Mostly because the Jellyfish Salad ($8.25), an old favorite of mine surprisingly came out near the end of my meal; I thought they'd forgotten, but here it was…..

I kind of wish they had forgotten about this as the sauce tasted watered down and there was still an astringent flavor, mildly reminiscent of acetone, telling me that this was hastily prepared. A ig disappointment.

It would be easy enough for me to close the book on Dumpling Inn, but I saw something that would at least bring me back eventually. As I was eating, a gentleman in a wheelchair came in, apparently he was a regular as all the ladies here knew him. They sat him at a table, went to the back and returned with a ziploc with what looked like custom eating utensils that he could use…..I guess he really is a regular! This brought a smile to my face…maybe I'm not the biggest fan of the food here, but I'll surely support a place that takes care of their regulars. So I guess I'll be back……someday.

Dumpling Inn
4619 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111

Mariscos Monday: The Mariscos Tijuana Jr Truck and Mariscos Godoy closes

March 10, 2014 mmm-yoso Food Trucks, Mexican Restaurants, Seafood, Taco Shops

**** My understanding is that this truck so no longer

A couple of weeks back, occasional commenter "Buddha" who I've known since the "Chowhound Days" shot me an email telling me that he believes the best fish tacos are now being served from a truck on the corner of J and Broadway in Chula Vista named Tijuana Jr. This past weekend, I finally had some time to drive down there are check them out.

When I arrived at 10am, they were already doing some serious business. The truck is located in the parking lot of a tire shop with very limited parking. I was lucky enough to snare a spot.

There's one guy manning the order window and another manning the window for payment making things easy.

Of course I went with a Taco de Pescado – the fish taco $1.25.

Good god, this thing was huge for a typical fish taco. Two large pieces of fish, moist, the batter is almost a laquer-tempura style, very crisp. Not to much flavor, the crema is watery, you'll need to add some sauce to this one, a squeeze of lime, and maybe the habenero onions. Still, this is a super deal for a $1.25 and I think it may be the best……I need to get back to Mariscos el Pescador and El Prieto for a comparison.

I also ordered a Gobernador, which had a ton of perfectly cooked shrimp.

This really didn't seem like the typical gobernador to me….though I loved the way the cheese had been melted and griddled in some spots. This thing literally fell to pieces in ten seconds. If this was indeed a gobernador, I really missed the onions, peppers, and seasonings. Still no complaints about pertion size, though this too was very mild in flavor.

I was more than satisfied as I left. I'll be back!

Thanks for the recommendation Jeff!

Mariscos Tijuana Jr
706 W J St
Chula Vista, CA 91910

On site daily from 9am – 7pm

Since I was down in the South Bay, I thought I'd check on El Charco, which looks exactly the same as 5 months ago. I think the place is a goner.

Mariscos Godoy is now Maricos la Perla Negra:

As I headed to the I-5 down Palomar I took a quick glance to my right and was surprised. Mariscos Godoy was now Mariscos la Perla Negra:

Anyone know what happened?

A funny thing happened as I was waiting at the light to get back on Palomar; CC sent me a text telling me that Mariscos Godoy had closed! Man, that was kind of weird….I squinted my eyes looking out at Palomar Street….looking to see if I could spot her…..

651 Palomar St
Chula Vista, CA 91911