Circling Back to Izakaya Masa

Here's the latest in my "circling back" series, you know, revisits to places that I've posted on and have gotten a bit of flack over. Many folks just love these places, but I really haven't been that impressed. Though I'm always up for a recommendation, something to show me how wrong I was……and folks I know really like Izakaya Masa. Personally, I've thought the food here was decent, but nothing to go out of your way for…..my buddy and fellow food blogger, Dennis, has called the place the Sandra Lee of Izakayas, as in items there are "semi home made". Still, a few folks pointed out that I've spent way too much time on the ramen at Masa in recent years and not enough effort on the other items here. Fair enough, my last non-ramen centric post on the place was over 7 years ago, though I've been coming here since it was Teriyaki Cowboy, which in truth, I loved as a little bento shop, much more than Izakaya Masa.

I hadn't in over a year and the place has been opened up a bit; more tables, but still with that bar/counter area….. you're literally rubbing elbows with the person next to you when the place is full. Which seems like most of the time based on my recent visits.

Like my other posts of this ilk, I ordered something which I thought was pretty good during my pasts visits along with something either new, or which had been recommended to me.

On my first visit, I started off with Agedashi Nasu.

First the good; the dashi was fair, not too salty, nice sweet-salty balance. The skin of the eggplant was super tough, versions I've had of this dish, the eggplant has been deep fried, then hot water is poured over the eggplant ot remove excess oil, it is usually tender, this was pretty tough. You might find this strange, but the thing that I really didn't like about this was the daikon oroshi. For some reason it was really dry, like all the liquid had been squeezed out of it and it had been sitting around that way for a while…hard with no flavor.

I've always enjoyed the Chuka Kurage – Jellyfish Salad, it is by the book, and was fine as always.

No complaints.

Curious, I ordered the Grilled Beef Tongue ($9.50).

Man, this was a pretty large portion of tongue. It wasn't seasoned enough, nor grilled enough (I love crisp edges) for my taste. Too chewy and rubbery. I didn't expect the "kiss of bincho" and got none. If you want quantity over quality/technique, then by all means have at it.

Still, as you can tell, I didn't leave hungry…..

Since I was going to do a circling back post, I had to visit one more time…….

I hadn't had the ankimo here since I first visited in 2007, it's now $7.95.

As with my previous experience, this left much to be desired……it lacked any creaminess and the flavor seemed dulled. It really was like ankimo flavored cheese curds since the slices almost had a squeak to them.

One of my favorite dishes at Teriyaki Cowboy was Masa's Fried Chicken.

Over the years, it seems to have gotten less crisp, on this day it was almost gummy. Also, the distinct flavor, that I likened to a taste of kimchi base has been dulled as well. I appreciate the fact that it is dark meat chicken, much more flavor and moisture, though I wish they'd bring the more assertive flavor back.

The last item was an impulse order, the Yamaimo Steak. Yep slices of mountain yam, with sort of a wafu style sauce.

I really enjoy the slime-then-crunch texture, though I found the sauce to be too greasy for my taste….slimy and greasy is just not among my favorite textural combination. Also, the sauce was too bland; it could have used a bit more vinegar to give it a kick and more katsuobushi (bonito flakes) for a nice savory punch.

During my meals I kept asking myself; if I lived within a few blocks of Masa, would I be a regular? My honest answer? Probably not….I'd drop by now and then, but I'd be better off driving a couple of miles more to Sakura. Still, I prefer Masa to Ouan. I haven't been to Tajima in Hillcrest yet, but based on past experience, I'd guess Masa would come out ahead.

The woman who runs the front of house is a perfect reflection of her staff. On my visits, I've seen her, and them, fluctuate from surly to funny to sweet….. sometimes half the fun is watching her interact with the customers.

All of this brings me back to a conversation I overheard years ago. I was in Tajima where a young man was describing how great Masa was; it "changed my opinion of Japanese cuisine". The other young man sitting across him came up with one of the best responses, "you better not go to Sakura then…."

"Why?"

"Because your head will explode….."

Izakaya Masa
928 Fort Stockton Dr
San Diego, CA 92103
Hours:
Tues – Sat 6pm – 1am