I got some interesting news right before Christmas, my good FOY (Friend of Yoso) Candice and also Som Tommy emailed me asking if I'd heard anything about Sultan opening in the Gaslamp. I hadn't heard a thing, but went to their website where I found an announcement they were opening on Christmas Eve! In the Gaslamp…. Needless to say, I was excited. Sultan has been on of our favorites. In fact, it was the food at Sultan which inspired us to travel, not once, but twice to Turkey. It was a sad day when the owner of Sultan decided to go back to doing only confections.
But now it seemed that Sultan was opening in the Gaslamp? The Gaslamp? I made it a point to drop by right after Christmas.
This restaurant was located on the street level of Horton Plaza and business was doing quite well. There were a ton of worker's, none of which I recognized. The menu though, looked exactly the same. I was shown a small table and actually ordered without looking at the menu; I knew what I wanted; the Adana Kebab. I looked over at the kitchen area and finally recognized one of the cooks from the "old Sultan". Things seemed a bit chaotic, they had only been open for two days after all…… Lot's of employees needing lots of training. What didn't need to be fixed was my Adana Kebab……..
While not as spicy as I recalled; this was every bit as moist, flavorful, beefy, with spices dancing in my mouth as I could remember. My memory told me that the rice was fluffier, with more flavor……I texted this to the Missus who told me that I "was just missing it so much". Whatever, that cacik cut the flavors of the kebab like a yogurt flavored knife….
As I finished my meal, I felt a hand on my shoulder…..it was the owner, smiling, thanking me for dropping by. We had a short, but nice conversation. He's dropped out of the Hillcrest Farmer's Market and his daughter had returned from school in Turkey. He wanted opportunities for some of his family and thought this would allow "each one of them to have a home of their own." The American dream. He also insisted that I try his latest baklava, the pistachio-date…….less sweet, it was more to my taste…delicious.
Whether this incarnation of Sultan will deliver the dishes that inspired us to travel to Turkey, and me to write stuff like this, well, that remains to be seen. I will say that I can't wait to meet up with some of my old favorites here, the lahmacun, acili ezme, saksuka, and patlican salatasi….they're all calling my name.
Welcome back Sultan, we've missed you!
Sultan Baklava Mediterranean Cuisine
770 4th Ave
San Diego, CA