While most of our stays on longer trips are in apartments. I try to squeeze in a couple of hotels along the way. The Missus really enjoys doing Her own thing, so I tread carefully.
Of course staying in hotels has it's perks; the amenities; the concierge, front desk, house-keeping, business center….even a "rock tower"…..
The Silken Gran Hotel in Bilbao had that rock tower. It also served breakfast on the rooftop terrace.
Being the anti-social folks we are, we got to breakfast early and while there was a very mild chill in the air and a slight breeze, we sat outside.
It was more than enough for breakfast.
Heading out for the day, we of course passed "Fred"…….who was starting to bloom!
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And headed off, walking through Parque de Doña Casilda de Iturrizar to the Bus Station.
I believe this is a memorial to Doña Casilda de Iturrizar.
We'd missed enough day-trip possibilities during our time in Madrid and Barcelona. To be fair, we'd been having too much fun. I thought it would be great to visit the town of Guernica. There were many possibilities, so why Guernica? During this trip, I'd been developing an appreciation for the works of Picasso. I had a chance to read about what is probably his most powerful work; Guernica. By turn, I had a chance to read George Steer's account of the bombing of Guernica.
The bus ride to Guernica from Bilbao takes about 40 minutes. We got off at the end of town and followed the "TI" signs…..which strangely led to the other side of town. It then took a turn and went back in almost the same direction we had arrived from….I'm thinking we missed a turn somewhere. Anyway, we arrived at the Tourist Information Office and the really nice woman provided a map and all the main destinations.
There was really just one thing I wanted to see and it was located behind the Gernika Assembly House.
The "Tree of Guernica", the symbol of freedom for Basque people resides on the ground behind the Assembly House. It is also depicted in the beautiful stained glass ceiling of the Stained Glass Chamber.
From times going back to the 14th Century, the Basque and other leaders would swear to respect the Fueros of Navarre, the charters that ensured the rights of the Basque people as an independent kingdom in union with the Spanish Crown. And though the Fueros was superseded by the Spanish Constitution, the President of the Basque Region – the Lehendakari are still sworn in under the tree.
The current tree is the fifth; each is a descendant of the original tree, planted in the 14th century. This little one replaced the previous tree in March of 2015 and is 14 years old.
The most famous; the "Old Tree" is located in the Templet a few yards away. It is quite popular with folks……
We also visited the Basque Country Museum.
The museum is worth visiting. There's also a section on the Chefs who have lead the moderm Basque food revolution.
Of course we stopped at the copy of Picasso's Guernica down the street.
It wasn't market day (which is Monday) so the area was fairly empty……
Except for the "old-timers" hanging out an socializing outside.
We walked back to the bus stop and caught the next bus back to Bilbao. Instead of going all the way to Termibus Station we got off…well somewhere in downtown. Somehow, we found ourselves back at La Vina del Ensanche. Now this was a Saturday and the place was packed….well the bar area was packed. There was possibly room for you….if you were a jamon hanging from the ceiling.
The tables though, were empty. Most had reserved signs on them…except for two. We asked and got one of the tables.
The Missus buoyed by the festive atmosphere ordered a "cava", sparkling wine….but not a glass….a whole bottle!
I ordered the Josellini – basically Joselito Jamon (here's the website in English, scroll down to the part about "Happy Pigs" – you'll love it), Foie Gras, with a sweet glaze on toast. Man this was good!
Rich, porky, sweet, salty, yeasty, crusty, creamy, and all of that mixed into one. I could eat this all day…..
We also got the regular order of the Carrillera de Iberico (braised pork cheeks) . The sauce was great mopped up with bread.
All while watching the ebb and flow of the crowds. The packed bar would start to thin out…..
Then wham! The next group of 40 people would walk in. This place has been around since 1927, so I guess this has been going on for 88 years.
Meanwhile, a family of a mom and three daughters sat at the table next to us. The youngest looked to be about 5-6, the oldest perhaps 10. When the foie gras mousse arrived, the three young girls nonchalantly dug into it and spread it on bread….like they eat this stuff every day! I turned to the Missus and said, "my god……they treat that like butter!" Her response? She turned to our server, pointed to the foie and said, "I'll take one of those." Which is how we had our second serving of foie gras during this "light" lunch.
It was quite good….nice and mildly liver-y and oh so rich……and I've been calling this "Basque Butter" ever since.
The Missus was having such a great time; She even ordered dessert…..
Man…..Basque Butter……
La Vina Del Ensanche
Diputacion 10
Bilbao, Spain
Just like before, we had a rather hard time finding our way back to the hotel….not sure why. But, when we did get back, it was time for a much needed nap!