We awoke to a serene Sunday morning in Ghent. After a nice cup of coffee we headed off for a nice morning walk through the formerly run down, but now gentrified neighborhood of Patershol, past where we got off the tram the previous day near Gravensteen Castle.
We crossed back over near Groentenmarkt. That's the back of the Meat Market which I described in my earlier post to the left. Things seemed so still and peaceful.
We just kind of wandered around following the few folks out walking in the morning…..
We crossed over St Michael's Bridge.
And found a small Sunday Market in the square in front of St Michael's Church.
For some reason we were lucky enough to run into a flower market in Kouter Square.
It was a charming market….full of bright flowers.
And smiling folks, just taking in the flowers, the sunshine, having a nice morning coffee from one of the stands (there's even one serving oysters and champagne!). It's these little happy mistakes that makes travelling so wonderful.
We soon saw a band warming up in the bandstand.
So we did the local thing; we had a seat on one of the benches and listened to the band.
Apparently, the Sunday Flower Market has been going on since the 18th century!
We soon saw a family of five looking for some seats; so we waved them over and took our leave.
While listening to the music, I had gotten an idea. Why not just stay in for dinner? So we headed back to the little market in front of St Michael's Church to do a bit of shopping. The riverfront was starting to awaken on this sleepy Sunday morning…..
We made a few purchases and then headed back to the apartment; taking the long way, joining all the folks enjoying the river front.
We did see one guy who had taken a pretty bad fall from a bicycle, but he looked ok, so we kept on going. Arriving back at the apartment, we took a nice little break, more coffee, a shower to freshen up…then the decision of what's for lunch….a rather early lunch (11 am). I decided that we should head down the two blocks or so to Vrijdagmarkt and see what was open.
There was a rather nice looking place; white tablecloths and all, named Brasserie Savarin that was open for service.
Since this WAS Belgium…anytime is a good time for a beer…..
The Missus had a Tongerlo Blonde; sweet, quite foamy, fairly non-descript.
I ordered the Ommegang Keizer Karel Charles Quint – A Belgian Strong Pale Ale.
Mild hops, a bit different from what I had gotten used to, a bit "clovey"….quite a bit of head.
I ordered the "Gentse Stoverij"…which turned out to be Carbonnade Flamande…. which I'd had a couple of times so far.
I had read that in Ghent they use thyme and the different beer creates a different flavor….not sure; this one was pretty much what I'd had before, honestly, not quite as good. The beef was on the drier side and the "gravy" not as strikingly flavorful.
The frites were just ok……I was still searching for some great frites in Belgium.
I did enjoy the salad though.
The Missus? Well She had Waterzooi of course!
While the presentation looked much more refined; She preferred what She had at t'Vosken the day before.
Service was ok….folks seemed to be in Sunday mode and I don't really blame them on such a beautiful day.
Brasserie Savarin
Vrijdagsmarkt 17
Ghent, Belgium
Leaving, we stared across Vrijdagsmarkt……
And of course we headed straight back to Dulle Griet.
Things were much quieter at this time for the day…….
Which gave me a chance to take a good look around……
The Missus got a really nice Geuze from Brouwerij Drie Fonteinen. Floral with citrus tones; with a nice funk, fairly light and very pleasant.
I got the house blonde, light, pleasant, and easy to drink.
Dulle Griet
Vrijdagmarkt 50
Ghent, Belgium
We then took a leisurely post lunch siesta……a very under-rated and appreciated event.
Before dinner, we got back out and took a walk.
The one place I do regret not visiting in Ghent was St Bavo's Cathedral; it was under going some restoration when we were in town. I understand the artwork and altarpiece are quite stunning. But I mostly wanted to go to see the statue of someone near and dear those who know a bit about the history of Hawaii; Pater Damiaan; more commonly known as Father Damien who was born in Belgium. I'll make sure to visit next time.
Dinner was simple affair…….chicken wings and some cheese.
We'd end up buying cheese and carrying it with us for the rest of the trip.
Taking our post dinner walk we found that even on a Sunday night the Groentenmarkt was a happening place.
We really enjoyed Ghent and would miss this town. We stood and just soaked in the sounds and sights before heading back.
As we got back to Vrijdagsmarkt we were suddenly possessed and had to make a right turn back into Dulle Griet! For one last beer; the missus had Her Duchesse De Bourgogne and I a Leffe Royale. A nice end to our stay in Ghent.
The next morning we would be off, taking two different trains, in search of what some consider to be the most coveted and best beer in the world……
Stay Tuned!