The Nakasendo Trail – Onward to Tsumago

After heading uphill at Magome; the well marked trail meanders off; up and downhill, across roads and sometimes for short spans alongside the highway.

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Occasionally, you'd hear the ringing of the "Bear Bell" off in the distance. So, we started doing the same as well when coming across those bells.

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You'd sometimes come across a small village…..

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Some of which look like the real life rendition of a painting.

There are a couple of restrooms along the way and a few rest stops. The mild drizzle, wasn't much more than a mild nuisance. After heading down from the summit of the Magome is this place; the Tateba Tea House (Ichikoku Tochi Tateba Chaya), a nice rest stop.

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Volunteers from the local preservation association runs this quaint, rustic tea house, and it gives you insight into life during the days before electricity and other conveniences.

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A "kagizuru", the traditional Japanese hearth is central heating; though there was also a wood burning cast iron stove onto one side. We learned that the smoke keeps insects and pests out and helps to harden and treat the wood.

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IMG_3691 IMG_3700There was a tour group of German and French who were just getting ready to leave when we arrived. The guide greeted us in Japanese and I answered. When I thanked her for the nice history of the building she looked shocked, then laughed. I guess we really can pass for Japanese here! You get a nice pot of tea and some snacks gratis. Just don't forget to leave a small donation so this place can keep on doing their thing.

It seems that everything has a story here. Like this union of two cypress trees that have been joined as one.

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A "Husband and Wife" tree.

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The forest near the halfway point between Magome and Tsumago is quite beautiful. Tall, straight trees reach to the skies…..

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The crystal clear water in streams roll pass…..

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Much like when we hiked the Samaria Gorge; we found some fallen branches and ended up using them as walking sticks.

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Leaning them against a wall at the outskirts of Tsumago, thinking they may be of help to folks walking in the opposite direction one day.

Eventually, you get to the hill that overlooks a couple of villages with Tsumago in the distance.

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And you follow the signs as the trail leads to Tsumago.

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Tsumago itself is quite atmospheric; you feel like you've stepped into the past.

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And the overcast skies and occasional drizzle seemed to add to things…….

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We came across this display in one of the buildings.

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Man, it was quite an impressive Hinamatsuri (Girl's Day) display. According to the sign; this region celebrates Hinamatsuri one month later than other areas.

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If you'd like to see the panoramic photo below; I'd click on it to enlarge.

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The Missus was just struck by the harmonic beauty…but I was getting hungry.

Since the Missus can read Kanji; She pointed out this Soba Shop.

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So we decided to grab some lunch…..

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Hot Soba sounded quite nice on this damp day.

The Missus went with this version of Sansai Soba.

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I went with the Tororo (grated yam) version.

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Nothing fancy, but nice a soothing on this day. The noodles were not quite the texture I enjoy, but the broth was quite nice.

Turns out this place is pretty well known in the guide books and such.

Yoshimuraya
860-1, Azuma, Nagiso,
Kiso,399-5302

Bellies full, we headed off to the "bus station"…….

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For the bus to Nagiso.

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Our train from Nagiso back to Nagoya, wouldn't be leaving until nearly 4pm, so we stopped by a shop and got some tea and wagashi.

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We arrived back in Nagoya a few minutes after 5pm. It had been a wonderful day.

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Thanks for reading!

And if you want a bit more; check this out