Burgundy – From Dijon to Beaune, with Visits to Les Halles, Gallet Traiteur, and Fromager Alain Hess

Our train for Beaune would not be leaving until noon, so we decided to wander around Les Halles, Dijon's market hall. On this morning; things were very quiet.

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We picked up a slice of Jambon En Croute and a really good baguette at one of the bakeries north of the market.

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While walking near Chez Leon we came across this little shop. The friendly young ladies were basically "waving us in".

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A Traiteur is basically a take-out/catering company. We kind of got the feeling that this shop was celebrating its grand opening. Quite a few people entered after we walked in.

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We were tempted by the Foie Gras items; but went with a few "salads".

Gallet Traiteur
10, rue des Godrans
21000 Dijon, France

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The train ride from Dijon to Beaune takes less than 20 minutes. We managed to polish off half the baguette and some of the Jambon en Croute while waiting for the train.

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We arrived at the quaint train station in Beaune; went and made arrangements for a rental car to picked up later in the day, and walked down the street and to our apartment inside the city walls of the "old town". I was instantly smitten by the town. It helps that we loved our accommodations. The unit's owner was a lovely, cheerful, and friendly woman. And the place had everything we could have needed or wanted….even an "honor system" wine cellar.

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It was a bit too cold to eat outside; but man, we would have loved eating outside if the weather was warmer.

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The location was fantastic as while it wasn't in the middle of everything, it was a mere block away or so. The place was peaceful and quiet, yet close to things. The perfect combination.

Speaking of close to things; once we dropped off our bags, the Missus was ready to go. The old town is fairly compact, the main business here is wine, in fact Beaune is considered Burgundy's "Capital of Wine" as many of the wine producers actually store their wine in Beaune. The big event in this town is the is the annual Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction, which takes place in November.

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We walked almost diagonally across the old town.

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Passing thru the ramparts on other side and across the "ring road" and over a stream.

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To a beautiful park that looked like something out of a painting.

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This is Parc de la Bouzaise.

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That seems to be a favorite of both our two legged and four legged friends.

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It seemed like the duck knew that this was their property as they displayed little fear of humans and dogs.

Near the edge of the park you see a fence.

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Walk through the opening in the fencing and you'll be rewarded with this beautiful sight.

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Yes, this is wine country indeed…the Cote de Beaune. Walk to your left a bit and you are ground zero of Beaune Les Teurons.

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The map shows how the land is divided up; many of the "clos" (plots) have belonged to the same family since medieval times.

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You can walk along the vineyards and feel like you are viewing a real life Impressionist painting.

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As we walked up the hill above Beaune, folks in the vehicles actually smiled and waved to us…..as if to say "welcome"…..

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Walking back into town, we stopped near the central square.

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When we were in Dijon; I noticed a truck delivering cheese to several businesses….with the name Alain Hess printed on the side. After a quick "Google check"; Fromagerie Hess became a "must stop" on my list. Right off the main square (Place Carnot) is the shop.

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It is a very busy shop….with cheese, charcuterie, and other products on the ground floor.

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And wine and cheese tastings in the basement.

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We bought cheese, foie gras, and a nice bottle of wine for a late lunch.

Fromagerie Hess
7 Place Carnot
21200 Beaune, France

Back at the apartment, we had a late lunch.

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IMG_1383   IMG_1386Which featured the bounty of what we had collected during the day. The champignons from Gallet Traiteur was quite good, though the puy lentils were much too salty and hard. The foie gras terrine from Alain Hess was amazing; great smooth liver flavors, yet rich, it was very good. And a nice crisp, but not too buttery white.

This was a nice meal.

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Which kind of displayed how good the food can be, even when self-catering in France.

7 comments

  1. You picked an awesome place to stay! Your kitchen is much better than mine. I like that center area where you can eat a snack while watching stuff cook. The trees and vineyards look awesome!

  2. Hi Soo – That apartment was very well set-up; one of the best we’ve stayed at! If I recall; the prices weren’t bad either.

  3. I was going to go to Vons this afternoon to pick up a few things but am now going to call that off as I don’t want to cry in public.

  4. Beaune is one of my favorite places to visit. The food, the wine, the slow paced life. Loved the drive down the main road cutting along the villages from Dijon to Beaune. Sigh. Can’t wait to go back.

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