Burgundy – Doing the “Parcours de la Chouette” (The Owl’s Trail) in Dijon

The Missus was rather reluctant to leave Paris behind, but we had plans to visit Burgundy on this trip. Taking the TGV to Dijon from Paris-Gare de Lyon Station was a snap, though in the typical way, there's basically a cattle call….everyone watches the schedule to figure out what track your train will be leaving from. When they finally list your track…everyone heads off.

IMG_1201 IMG_1202Our hotel; the Hostellerie Du Chapeau Rouge was just a short walk from the train station. The staff was wonderful and the room while small, was comfortable enough for a one night stay. There's actually a Michelin Two Star restaurant in the hotel; but I had other things in mind for our short stay. Like dropping off our bags and heading on a nice little walk. The Owl ("Chouette") is the city's symbol and I'd read about a nice little walk known as the Owl's Trail. So we basically headed off found the brass Owl signs on the sidewalk and headed off.

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The walk takes you past and thorugh most of the major sights in Dijon, like Place de la Libération

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Place François-Rude, also known as Place du Bareuzai for the statue of the basically nude winemaker treading the grapes, is considered the heart of the pedestrian zone in Dijon.

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There a quite a few structures with what is called "Toits Bourguignons", the Burgundian polychrome roofs in the area.

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We decided to take a break….the Missus wanted a snack and some coffee, so we stopped in this very colorful shop.

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Where we got our caffeine fix and the Missus sampled some macarons.

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Which the Missus really enjoyed.

Fortified, we headed off down Rue de Forges, a pedestrian "historical" street full of wonderfully kept and restored structures. You'd head through a doorway and down the dark entrance and find yourself staring at an interesting courtyard. This one is at number 38 Rue de Forges; the former residence of the Jean Maillard, the Mayor of Dijon, originally constructed in 1560.

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Finally ending up at Église Notre-Dame de Dijon a good example of Gothic design.

IMG_1238 IMG_1234 (2)The church is well known for several features; the Gargoyles; 51 of them on the Western side of the church.

There is also the clock, with its Jacquemart is also well known. You'll notice that along with the Bell-Striker, there are several other "automatons". According to the story, the Jacquemart was placed there around 1500. It soon became a favorite of the citizens of the city. To the point that they started worrying about its mental health……thinking that loneliness and extended celibacy might be weighing heavily upon the poor guy. So around 1650 or so; he was blessed with a wife; they called her Jacqueline and the shared duties striking the bell. In 1714 poet Aimé Piron asked that this poor chaste couple be given a child and so a son, Jacquelinet was "born". Needing someone to share the duties of striking the bell on the quarter hours led to Jacquelinette, a "daughter" being added in 1884.

There was one thing I really wanted to see….or actually rub. Around the corner, on Rue de la Chouette (Owl Street), you'll see a rather worn carving in the side of the church.

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This is the "Magic Owl of Dijon". Rubbing the sculpture with your left hand while making a wish, will make it come true and I think it worked; more on that in a later post.

After rubbing the owl…..for some reason that sounds somewhat profane, we decided to slow down and relax a bit. So we headed back, stopping at a couple of…..well, this is Dijon, right? Mustard shops to sample the nasal clearing condiments.

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As we headed back to check into our room.

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So what was it I wished for?

Stay tuned!

Facing East

Man, has Facing East been open almost 6 months now? They created a bit of a buzz when they first opened with Mary, Jinxi (BTW, hope all works out for you Jinxi!), Faye, and Kirbie making their way to the site that used to be Dede's for over a decade. I actually made 3 visits in the first 4 months and each time left shaking my head…..not quite sure what was going on here. Granted, these were lunch visits, but each was uniquely odd….and each was made with friends; the first two with "C" and "YZ" who both have Shanghai connections, both were really interested in the somewhat faddish version and conventional versions Xiao Long Bao, the last with "W and A", whom I ran into in the parking lot….we ended up sharing a not so good lunch together.

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Each took over an hour for lunch. The first time we went we got there at 1145, the open sign was on, but he place was completely dark. We waited a bit and walked in….turns out the front of house staff hadn't shown up yet and we were shown to a table, where we cooled our heels sitting in the dark, until staff showed up at noon.

Facing East 02 Facing East 15 By my second visit, word had gotten out and the place filled up really quickly. Lunch took about an hour and a half and of course the staff could feel the pressure. We saw several of our dishes head to wrong tables before making its way to us and we had one dish delivered that we hadn't ordered. The saddest thing was this dude who I could see was getting agitated waiting for his XLB. But this….well, let's be polite…guy….well two of his servers were guys and he held his tongue. Then the young lady went over to bring him his XLB and he totally unloaded on her, screaming and swearing. Of course, he wouldn't do that to any of the guys; he waited until the tiny young lady came along. FAcing East 14

The third visit….lunch took two hours and I realized that I was done with the place for a while. In current state this means the difference between a ten hour day and a possible twelve hour day. Still, for some reason I decided not to do a post. I held my tongue until a few weeks ago; a fourth visit, which will be at the end of the post.

Facing East has an interesting "fusiony" and somewhat ambitious menu with everything from Tacos Al Pastor (on our first visit, we found that the family has a Chinese Restaurant in Ensenada), which I think is now off the menu, to Chicken Karaage, to a somewhat "Bo Luc Lac-ish" Filet Mignon with Rice, and Kimchi (and cheese!) Fried Rice.

Anyway, I'm sure you're most interested in the food. Here's a summary of what I had during my first three visits, first to worse.

Interestingly, the best dish I had…even "YZ" enjoyed it was a version of Mei Cai Kou Rou.

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The pork belly was just tender enough, the soy-sugar ratio was good in the sauce; the preserved vegetable was tender and not too salty. The rice was a bit on the dry side but this wasn't bad at all.

The Chicken Karaage was interesting. As the batter was more of a lacquer – crunchy, "toriten" style and the chicken was served in a sweet-vinegar style sauce which went well with the fried chicken.

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The chicken was moist, the flavors, while teetering on salty, was balanced out by that dressing.

The best XLB I've had here…..I've had it twice, is the (almost) Foie Gras, basically a goose liver version of the bao. Another thing of note; I've had 6 orders of the XLB here……in each order there was at least one XLB that had leaked.

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Also of note; several times, the top knot of the XLB was hard. Also, and I find the XLB here lacking in soup and the pork versions are rather tough. I think the foie gras adds enough of that slightly livery-rich flavor to offset some of the shortcomings.

The chicken wings could have been a winner; it was crunchy and moist.

Facing East 06 Facing East 07But on both occasions I've had this; they were way too salty. You basically couldn't taste anything else in spite of the five spice sprinkled on the wings.

Taking a totally different road from the fried chicken; the Cured Meat Rice Kettle was really bland, the gailan under cooked, there was not enough sauce, and the rice at the bottom of the kettle was rock hard.

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There is of course, the Squid Ink – Black Truffle XLB.

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Which does make quite an impression visually. The skins on these had a bit of a strange texture to both "C" and I. There was also not enough "soup" in these. Yes, truffle oil flavor, but not much else…oh, and I tried eating these in the traditional style with ginger and black vinegar…man, that was a mistake. 2 of the 10 XLB had also leaked out.

Of the two more conventional XLB…..the Pork and Crab is better.

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The straight pork filling is on the tough side….and this'll be strange coming from me if you know me…the broth wasn't sweet enough and was in short supply. The wrappers, while not terrible, doesn't allow for what I call the "XLB Hang".

When visiting with "W and A" we ordered two rice plates; the first (both W and A are ethnically Vietnamese, so I knew they'd go for this) was the Filet Mignon Rice.

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Slightly toothsome, but weak in flavor, with a tinge of that rather unpleasant metallic flavor.

The Oxtail Rice had a decent sauce that edged on being too salty.

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The oxtail were really tough, which made eating this messy and rather unpleasant.

So yep, that was it……I realized that I just wasn't hip or perhaps not sequacious enough to enjoy and appreciate the food. Or perhaps, it's my lack of a sweet tooth that has me not order any of the desserts. I will say this though….none of my eating partners ever went back to Facing East.

Still, I decided to wait things out a bit and returned a few weeks ago. Strangely, the place was empty for the entire hour I was there, not a single other customer.

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Could it be that lunch is just not the time to eat here? Or perhaps folks have learned that lunch might just too long…..

Deciding not to push my luck with ordering the XLB or anything that might extend my lunch; I went with the Niu Rou Mian; Beef Noodle Soup. After all, I was told they make their own noodles and this, at heart is a Taiwanese Restaurant, right?

Facing East 17 Facing East 18The soup was very hot; I enjoyed the preserved vegetable, which really helped the flavor of the broth which seemed to have a whole bunch of white pepper in it, but wasn't overly salty. The beef – soy sauce – anise tones were really in the background; though there was a bit of spice to things. Just two small pieces of tasteless beef in this. The noodles were decent, a bit overcooked, but had a nice doughy-pull to them…except for that giant clump of noodles in the center of the bowl.

Still, an hour for a bowl of noodle soup? With my schedule at work these days, I just can't do that. I mentioned having to wait over 40 minutes for some noodle soup to the young man working. His response? A shrug of the shoulders….it's not his fault things took so long, but perhaps he could have said something like, "I'll mention this to the kitchen….." Or something like that.

 So perhaps….if…a BIG IF….I return it'll be for dinner. The service is quite hit and miss…..the folks are as a whole nice; but I saw a lot of mistakes/mix ups….though hopefully things are better now.

Facing East
4647 Convoy St Suite 101C
San Diego, CA 92111
Open Daily:
1130am – 1030pm

Revisits – Tasty Noodle House and Prime Grill

Man, when did summer start? I've been craving a few of my "warm weather" favorites recently. Here are a couple more…..

Tasty Noodle House:

Remember, back in October I was craving some Zui Ji (Drunken Chicken) from Tasty Noodle House and they were out of it? Well, it was warm enough that I was willing to brave that horrid parking lot and return to see if I could get some thing time around.

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And guess what….they had it.

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Now the version here had always had a strong wine flavor and been on the salty side. Today, it was much too salty, as in almost unpleasant to eat. Too bad, because it was fairly tender and almost boneless. But man, this was way too salty.

I also ordered the Chao Nian Gao (stir fried rice cakes), which, while usually a bit undercooked on past visits, had been decent overall.

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In terms of flavor, this was fine, a light touch of sesame oil, the mild bitterness of the Jì Cài (Shepherd's Purse). But today this was overcooked and mushy.

Sadly, I'd been waiting for warmer days to return here, but the food just didn't measure up this time around. I think I need to switch things up a bit.

Tasty Noodle House
4646 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111

Prime Grill:

One of my favorite warm weather dish is Bibim Naengmyun…something about those chilled and chewy noodles combined with a bit of spice that I find refreshing. Calvin wanted some Korean food for lunch….but not barbecue or anything like that….. So we thought we'd hit up Prime Grill. Funny, Calvin didn't even know what Bibim Naengmyun was…..

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The variety of panchan wasn't particularly good this time around; though I think they make the best baechu kimchi. While it's doesn't compare to Korea, it has a touch of fermented flavor and isn't overly salty as most restaurant versions in San Diego.

PrimeG Rev 02 PrimeG Rev 03While a bit under-sauced, I prefer the way the noodles are prepared here in comparison to…say, Buga. They use a thinner version of the buckwheat based noodle; while still chewy, it isn't like eating rubberbands. I'm not sure if it's just me; but I find the cho-jang here to be a bit more sweet than other places. A dash of vinegar a bit more sauce….a touch of sweat on the brow and I feel refreshed.

PrimeG Rev 04 PrimeG Rev 05We also ordered the Yukhoe. Sorry about the photo, the nice lady mixed everything, the egg yolk, pear, pine nuts up right when she brought the dish to the table. The meat was a bit too frozen when the dish arrived, but the texture got better, and we could make out the other flavors especially the hidden pieces of garlic which had some major bite as the dish thawed. Not too sure I'd order this here again though….even though it's a favorite dish of mine.

Just in case this wasn't enough, I ordered the Kimchi Pajun. Since I enjoyed the baechu kimchi here, I wondered how it would taste in savory pancake form.

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While this could have been a bit more crisp, it wasn't soggy nor too doughy and you could taste the kimchi. Not a bad dish….though we could only finish a slice a piece. Calvin took the leftovers home.

Overall, a nice meal…..the Missus and I returned a couple of days later and though I didn't take any photos, I thought the Bibim Naengmyun was even better. What was even more interesting was that all the Korean customers were getting that….so I guess it is a nice remedy to the warmer weather we're having!

Prime Grill
4620 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111

Nagoya – Kaburaya (Main Store) and Kinshachi Nagoya Akamiso Beer

We were feeling a bit tired after having a full day. So we decided to stay close to the apartment. With ESCA and whole bunch of other shopping centers the choice for dinner was endless. The Missus was fascinated with a place just a block away. Upon entering this place looked basically like an Izakaya……the day was finishing up for folks here in Nagoya. And folks were enjoying a beer (or two) and a bite (or more) to eat.

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Looking at the menu cracked me up….along with a bunch of "obanzai" style dishes, there seemed to be every Nagoya specialty on the menu….from Nagoya Teba, to Miso Katsu, to Hitsumabushi, to Kishimen! And some of the menu translations were quite humorous as well…….

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We ordered a random collection of dishes and were quite surprised at how good some of them was.

The Missus isn't a fan of Kushi Katsu; but She went for it ordering two Miso Kushi Katsu.

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The miso here isn't overly salty, a tad sweet, a thick, hearty texture, the panko was still crisp, the pork surprisingly tender.

The Missus was totally in love with offal in Japan, so the "Gacchan"; pork stomach stew was a natural choice.

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Again, with miso, this was very nicely sweet – miso umami, comforting, the pork stomach had a nice chew…….again, surprisingly not very salty.

Out of curiosity, I ordered the kishimen, Nagoya's signature noodle soup. Not expecting much, we, especially the Missus, was pleasantly surprised.

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The broth had a nice, almost a condensed, dashi flavor, deep umami. The flat, udon like noodles, had a good stretch to them and the texture stood up for the entire bowl. The Missus enjoyed this so much, she asked me to find one other shop for this before we left…….that was going to be a bit of a challenge, but I did find a shop (stay tuned) in an interesting location.

We were really enjoying ourselves and decided to try some other items….including this.

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Yep, local beer….made with red miso? Ohhhh-kay.

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Interesting flavor; slightly sweet salty-caramel, mildly malty. Not something I'd crave….but nice to try once.

I just couldn't "not" order the Unagi Honsenbei…..but man, this was way too large a portion.

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Crisp, crunchy, nicely salted……. the Missus got tired of this fairly quickly.

We decided to end with the Tori Nanban….it's usually chicken karaage, topped with vinegar and tartar sauce. What we got was a bit too over-the-top for us.

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The flavor of the karaage itself was fairly neutral; decently fried, a bit of soy and some nice savory tones. That sauce was a bit too much……like a crazy thousand island dressing; mayo-ketchup, with green onions, celery……carrots! Overpowering the chicken. We'd obviously hit the wall after this one……..

Kaburaya was a pleasant surprise and the Missus really enjoyed Herself. In fact, She'd want another Izakaya during this trip.

The service here was quite friendly. We loved the young lady who Served us, "my English is pretty good, yes?" Yes, it was.

Kaburaya Main Store
15-8 Tsubakicho Nakamura-ku, Nagoya-shi, Aichi, 453-0015
Chitose GL building B2 – 1F
Open Daily 11am – 1130pm