It was funny how we ended up staying in San Francisco over the Labor Day weekend. Both the Missus and I had been working pretty hard and there was no trip in sight for a couple more months. It was a brutal Sunday here with record temps in the high 90's. For some reason, I decided to check to see what the weather was like in San Francisco…..61?!?!? I basically told the Missus "the heck (using a more colorful verb) with this….let's go to San Francisco." And She agreed. It had been quite a while since we visited the city; in recent years we'd stuck to visiting places to the North and the South of San Francisco. And I couldn't remember when we last visited……so I dug into my photo archives and holy smokes! Check out the date on this photo!
We last visited nearly sixteen years ago! It was when the Missus and I took Her parents to visit. A trip was way overdue. So, I booked our flight, hotel, and a couple of restaurants….two had been on my "list" and one was a recommendation of my good friend Candice. Instead of the usual suspects; like Gary Danko, et al….we were going a bit different this time around.
We arrived, caught BART, and managed to check into the Marriott Marquis early, at 10am! Things were looking up. We freshened up and just headed on out. I figured a lot had changed over the last sixteen years…..but of course, some things stay the same.
There's a certain nostalgia to walking through Chinatown, a mixture of old school, somewhat traditional businesses, it was almost comforting seeing Golden Gate Bakery and ducking into various food shops. Along with all the cheesy souvenir stores….good lord' where there always that many here?
One thing the Missus and I quickly noticed….Chinatown seems much cleaner and tidy than when we used to visit in the late 90's and early 'oughts.
I had been fascinated with the opening of China Live. We'd been to a couple of branches of Eataly in Europe….in Florence, Bologna, and Copenhagen. And when China Live was touted as being the "Chinatown" version, well, I just wanted to check it out. I'd also heard that the food; while priced on the high side was pretty good.
There a small shop with a variety of items; some really interesting looking tea and other stuffs. And a rather "hipsterish" looking dining area….you know; all that wood.
I kinda knew what I wanted to order; Sheng Jian Baozi, the "Peking" Duck, and the Pork Belly. They were out of the pork belly, so I went with plan B….which they were out of as well. So, we just decided to try the wings.
Meanwhile, the Missus ordered some tea; not cheap at $13.95….but man; it was really floral and helped to cut through all the richness of the food.
First up; the Sheng Jian Bao ($12)….yep twelve bucks for 4.
The filling was juicy, light, and had a nice porky flavor with just the right amount of ginger to balance things out. The dough was terrible; it wasn't cooked correctly making the dough on the top really gummy, the sides mushy….and the bottom was way too thick. I mean, I really didn't expect anything like we get in China or even what my MIL makes….but that wrapper was a total fail. Still, the filling was really good.
When our duck ($26) arrived, the Missus and I looked at each other, rather disappointed. The color didn't seem right……but we were oh so wrong…..
The skin was oh so thin and crisp; the fat had been rendered….it seems into the flesh of the duck which was supremely moist. The sesame buns were hard and dry and the duck delicately flavored, so we ended up just making cucumber (which was very good quality), scallion, and hoisin sandwiches and just enjoyed the duck on its own. This is the best duck I've had in a very long time. Like I mentioned earlier, the seasoning on this was quite mild as was the duck which wasn't very gamey. This might be the best item we had on the entire short trip.
Based on the previous two dishes we were quite surprised when the "Chicken of the Sea" Crispy Wings ($14) arrived. There were ten wings in this dish.
I bit into one and cracked up…….growing up in Hawaii, one of the must have Chinese Restaurant dishes is Ong Choi with what we call "harm ha" (Shrimp Paste). The wings had been battered with that….it was a bit of overkill and seemed really salty. Though, unlike the usual MSG laden wings we often get; this one didn't bring on thirst……still it was waaaay too salty. The quality of the wings was excellent, no broken bones, no blackening of the flesh….the skin was thin and perfectly fried….the flesh moist, the size optimum for that skin to meat ratio……we'd have really loved this if it wasn't such a sodium bomb.
The service was professional, the meal, not cheap at seventy bucks. The place did fill up quite quickly, a mixture of younger Chinese who seemed well off, Chinese tourists, hipster looking folk, and some families. We enjoyed our meal here…..and will likely return for that duck.
China Live
644 Broadway
San Francisco, CA 94133
Hours:
Mon – Thurs 1130am – 10pm
Friday 1130am – 11pm
Saturday 1030am – 11pm
Sunday 1030am – 10pm
Leaving China Live; we headed to Stockton and started weaving our way past the markets and dim sum shops. Near Washington Street, I could here drums and percussion going….there was a Lion Dance happening somewhere…..
We found it happening in this street.
We got there just as the fireworks were going off.
The Missus and I laughed and basked in the noise, smoke, and shower of red paper……
It had been too long since we'd been in this wonderful city.