Our train for Bologna wasn't scheduled to leave until after 1pm, so the owner of our apartment was nice enough to let us check out a bit later than scheduled.
After relaxing for a bit we headed on out. There was still one item I wanted to try before we left Modena and the Missus wanted to do some (more) shopping. We headed on back to Mercato Albinelli. But stopped to check out the cathedral on the way.
There was a lot of restoration work going on in the cathedral, so we just had a quick look and headed down the street to the Mercato.
Which was very quiet on this morning.
Right out the doors of the Mercato is Bar Schiavoni.
This little coffee and sandwich "bar" was doing some pretty good take-out business. The seating is all streetside on foldable chairs and tables. I got us two espresso and ordered something else….
When I told my Italian coworkers and friends that I wanted to try Cotechino Modena, they looked at me oddly and wrinkled their noses. But since, I was in Modena, I wanted to make sure to try this IGP (Indication Geografic Protected) sausage made of minced pork "parts" in the pork rind. The look totally reminded me of Spam®….which of course has its own…ahem,,,,designation of authenticity! The Cotechino was quite porky, rich, with a clove-wine-nutty flavor; it's almost oily, but the nice crusty bread and the sauce which featured capers and vinegar really did a great job of cutting the richness.
I'd gladly have it again….perhaps next time alongside Cotechino's "son", Zampone. The Missus and I shared a sandwich which was more than enough for the both of us.
Bar Schiavoni
Via Luigi Albinelli 13
Modena, Italy
After our "breakfast" we headed over a few blocks to a leather shop we saw the day before.
While it was closed the last time we passed by; this time it was open.
The young lady working here was amazing. She went through all the products; showed us the process, told us the story of the business, which was founded by the previous owner in 1979. She and a partner interned at the shop and when the owner was ready to retire; took over the business. She walked us outside and showed us where the canals used to run (where the street is now) for all the tanners on the street. It was an amazing story!
The Missus bought a bag….a wonderful hand made leather backpack…with a story.
Before we paid; the young lady asked us to follow her upstairs, to the workshop and showed us the ceiling. She told us that this was the original ceiling of the building; which goes back to the 15th century! Most places have it painted or covered over. But here was the original.
She told us; "when I first walked up the stairs and saw this for the first time, I knew it was the place for me!"
We loved this place and hope to return someday.
La Vacchetta Grassa
Corso Canalchiaro 42
Modena, Italy
Yes, we hope to return to Modena someday….with that backpack in tow, and perhaps some stories of where it has been!
Thanks for reading!