Four Daughters; The Union Club; Memories and Reconstructions; 126 W. Main, Medford, Oregon.

Cathy and Kirk have their own posts and their own memories; this post is about Ed (from Yuma) and Tina exploring his memories in a post.

I had not returned to Jackson County in Southern Oregon since my mother’s death in January 1981. On this visit, I had to go to Four Daughters Irish Pub on W. Main St. in Medford. The entrance was easy to spot from across the street: IMG_2952

The front door was inviting: IMG_2953

For me, the floor views toward the back and easily exceeded my expectations: IMG_2957
IMG_2956
And I was delighted to see this brief history of the building posted on the wall in Four Daughters IMG_2958

One key point stands out from this history – Christian Schempp’s Beer Parlor and the subsequent Union club only occupied the eastern half of the building space until you got nearly a third of the way through the building, so they were much smaller bars and lacked all these brick walls, tables etc.        

         But this space had a more personal meaning also: My grandfather, Christian Schempp, apprenticed as a butcher and sausage maker in the old country. He and his wife, Marie, came to the United States in 1923, and they had their first child, Hilda, my mother, a couple of months after their arrival. Christian was a hard worker and ambitious. By the late 1930s, he owned a meat packing plant in Modesto, California. However, he had been gassed in the Argonne Forest during the First World War and had severe sinus and related problems throughout his life. In 1939 an attack of mastoiditis nearly killed him. His doctor told him to give up cold damp conditions, which meant he had to give up meat packing.

As a result, he moved to Medford and purchased what would become Christian Schempp’s Beer Parlor in 1940.

Not long after Pearl Harbor, according to one of his favorite stories, he realized that the government would begin rationing and restricting the supply of beer, so he purchased a warehouse (?) full of beer. When the Army opened a training base at Camp White a few miles away, his tavern was the only place in town with enough beer to satisfy the thirsty GIs.

In early 1945, my father William Edmond (Ed) Davis was liberated from a POW camp in the Philippines and after medical treatments etc. was discharged from the Army. He made his way up to Medford. Soon my dad began working for my grandfather, where he met my mother, falling in love, and I was born in November, 1947.

In the early 1950s, Oregon legalized liquor by the drink, and my grandfather purchased a liquor license.Now that the bar was now more than a beer parlor led to the change in the name to The Union Club. In 1950s, my father took over more and more responsibilities of running the bar. When Christian had a severe stroke in 1958, he sold the bar to my dad and had a busy and pleasant retirement.

Soon my father (and my mother) were faced with a crisis. Oregon began requiring establishments with a liquor license to do at least 25% of their gross sales in food. Perhaps the measure was an effort to reduce deaths from alcoholism and cirrhosis, but it would also free up some liquor licenses for corporate hotel chains opening along the interstate highway system.

Until that time, The Union Club served a small selection of bar favorites. They could griddle up a hamburger or cheeseburger, and my dad’s beef stew and chili were always available. Bar snacks like pickled pigs’ feet and pickled eggs and peanuts were favorites, but all of these put together were less than 5% of gross sales. Therefore, they installed a full kitchen with lunch counters and booths in the middle of the building. Having steady income from the bar, they sold food at cost, and the Union Club became a popular lunch spot that also did some dinner business.

My mother managed the kitchen in its early years, and in the summer, I washed dishes for the lunch rush and sometimes did prep work and waited tables in the evening.

In the early 1970s, my father’s health began to fail and he sold the establishment.

Aologizes for the long historical interlude, but it helps to explain why I was so amazed at the transformation of the bar.

Now to the food. While the extensive menu covers all kinds of bar food, we could sample just a few, and it is really hard to sneak deep-fried mushrooms past my wife:

  IMG_2961
Really great crunchy exterior, moist mushroomy interior. They came with a ranch dipping sauce, and for poor lactose intolerant me, some good old-fashioned course mustard.

And beer. Four Daughters does not have a huge tap list, but there were still plenty of choices – both of these are brewed on premises: IMG_2959

Tina ordered the meatloaf, two thick slices, spiced with oregano, and accompanied by decent grilled vegetables, creamy cheddar mashed potatoes, and a thick slice of bread and butter: IMG_2963

I went for the old-fashioned Irish beef stew: IMG_2965

This broke no new culinary grounds, but the gravy was plenty beefy, the mashed potatoes creamy and flavorful, and the portion as much as I could eat.

Already stuffed at this point, we took our bread pudding back to the room with us: IMG_2982

Before we left, they urged us to go upstairs and look at the casual bar area. About two years ago, my right meniscus convinced me that climbing stairs was not something my 67-year-old knees could do anymore, so I handed Tina the camera sat back and drink beer, and waited for her return. It wasn’t until I saw the photographs later that I became aware of how the owners had transformed the space into a truly amazing bar and lounge. Here is a picture from climbing the backstairs: IMG_2967

This large room with 110-year-old brick walls, tons of cushy furniture, looks like a great place to show up at 8 PM and be escorted out by a Lyft driver at 1:45. IMG_2969

More great brick wall: IMG_2972
and the huge upstairs bar: IMG_2971

Tina took this photo of the giant staircase: IMG_2975

Glad I wasn’t climbing that. And when she came back to the ground floor she found your humble author approaching sensory overload and a food/alcohol induced form of enlightenment:

  IMG_2978

I hope you all enjoyed, and I just want to dedicate this post to ALL our immigrant mothers, fathers, and ancestors. We/they are America.

Wine tasting in Southern Oregon

mmm-yoso!!! is Kirk’s fascinating food and travel blog out of San Diego. Sometimes he lets Cathy or me, Ed (from Yuma), blog here too. Thanks!!!

I wish I could share with folks the great natural beauty and wonderful hospitality Tina and I experienced in Central Oregon. But I am uncomfortable writing about wonderful meals prepared by friends and family, and Tina and I both failed to take photos of the Cascade peaks and rugged scenery we witnessed our way down to Jackson County in Southern Oregon.

We arrived on a scorching (108°+) afternoon in the Rogue Valley too early for our motel room, so we sought the house where I grew up and the nearby house of my grandparents. Pulling into the driveway there, we were greeted by the current owner, who was happy to learn about the history of the house and happy to share some details about living in Medford these days. After he learned that we were interested in wine tasting, he insisted that we drive a short way to 2Hawk winery, nearby on N. Phoenix Rd.

Located about 2 ½ miles from where I grew up, the brand-new winery was built with old wood: IMG_2927

Amazing to see vineyards where there were once empty fields or cow pastures at the edge of town: IMG_2928

The tasting room was modern and attractive, the servers were very friendly and helpful, and some of the folks at the winery seemed like locals who drop by in the afternoons: IMG_2930

2Hawk offered a couple of different tasting flights, but their lineup was limited but good: IMG_2929

In fact, limited supply seems to be plaguing many of the new Southern Oregon wineries. One place we stopped was out of wine to sell, and when I came back two days later to 2Hawk to pick up a bottle of their excellent reserve Tempranillo, which they had kindly let me sample, they had none.

2335 N. Phoenix Road | Medford, OR 97504
541.779.WINE (9463)

http://www.2hawk.wine/

The Rogue Valley with nearly 30 wineries is the center of the Southern Oregon Vineyard industry but I wanted to take Tina over to the Applegate Valley, just to the west, because it is much more rural, very beautiful, and offers some distinctive wines.

But folks gotta eat; so we stopped in at the C St. Bistro in Jacksonville. Jacksonville, now is a very small town, has a historic district that goes back to the 1850s, when Jackson County was founded. It’s in a nice location up off the Valley floor some, but it would’ve been inconvenient for the railroads, so they went down to the heart of the Valley and created Medford.

The C St. Bistro is a small home style  lunch and dinner spot in Jacksonville: IMG_2983

http://www.cstbistro.com/

It has a pleasant patio though it was getting awfully hot by the end of lunch: IMG_2986

I had a nice fresh lemonade that I failed to photograph. I opted for the turkey BLT, made with toasted homemade focaccia: IMG_2990

Real roasted turkey – an abundant portion – was the highlight of the sandwich. Being lactose intolerant, I ordered the tomato soup with no sour cream. It was full of red ripe tomato flavors, but the acidity might have been better balanced with the sour cream as Tina’s was: IMG_2987

But the real highlight of her lunch was the magnificent wild mushroom and melted cheese cibatta: IMG_2988

Here’s a detailed photo: IMG_2989

The bill was reasonable: IMG_2992

We headed out of town on the Jacksonville/Ruch highway, which crosses a low spur of the mighty Siskiyou mountains and descends into the beautiful Applegate Valley: IMG_3004

We stopped at only two wineries; the Schmidt family winery (the funnest in the Applegate Valley) seems to have a party going on constantly: IMG_2997

330 Kubli Road Grants Pass, OR 97527

541-846-9985

https://sfvineyards.com/

I’m sure the wines were very good, we enjoyed the tasting for sure, but the emphasis at the winery seem to be on the beautiful grounds and picnic areas: IMG_3001

IMG_3002

Our last stop in the Applegate Valley was at Cowhorn vineyards a few miles south off the main road at the edge of the forest and the Valley, one of the most innovative and progressive vineyards in the Southern Oregon wine region: IMG_2994

The entire winery has no carbon footprint. All employees have 52-week a year employment and healthcare. Though the winery is very new, some of their best wines Syrah, Grenache, and Tempranillo are some of the most sought after and expensive in the Valley and (in my humble opinion) some of the best tasting.

The vineyards are spread out from the winery: IMG_2993 IMG_2995

1665 Eastside Road
Jacksonville, OR 97530
(541) 899-6876

 

http://cowhornwine.com/

 

Tina and I thoroughly enjoyed the wine tasting and scenery. What makes Southern Oregon wineries unique is a variety of microclimates, most cooler than many regions in California, all more elevated than most other regions in Oregon or in California, and producing varietals not usually well represented in West Coast wineries such as Tempranillo, Grenache, Viogner, Roussanne.

If you’re in the area, you should definitely stop in and check out the one top 10 Vineyard area in the United States that you had probably never heard of before.

First and Last Meals in Portland – the Mekong Bistro; Dar Salam

Kirk and Cathy get a day off today as Ed wants to talk about his and Tina’s first and last meals in Portland.

On our trip, we flew into Portland and out of Portland, but the lion’s share of our visit was spent on the road going to Central Oregon, Southern Oregon, and the Oregon coast. After we flew in and before we flew out, we had the same problem, we wanted to eat somewhere close to our motel and to PDX.

Mekong Bistro:

The area along 82nd Ave. in East Portland is a treasure trove of small restaurants of various ethnicities. Intrigued by the thought of Cambodian food, we found the Mekong just off 82nd: IMG_2910

The restaurant was a large space with an inviting bar, though not very busy on this Monday night: IMG_2914

The menu was huge, a whole page of happy hour specials, and several pages of Cambodian, Lao, Thai, and Vietnamese choices. Of course, we wanted to focus on the Cambodian, but first, to take the edge off our appetites, we ordered chicken wings off the happy hour specials: IMG_2917

A real winner. Fresh from the fryer, crust perfectly crunchy, meat tender, moist, and flavorful. Though almost too hot to handle, we couldn’t stop ourselves from munching away. The dipping sauce was meh, mostly sweet, but nothing could detract from the wings themselves.

Our first bowl of Cambodian soup was sour pork and watercress: IMG_2918

Okay, that’s a pretty lousy picture; this’ll give you a better idea of what was in the soup: IMG_2924

The rich broth had a complex sour profile and the pork and watercress were well cooked, but not overcooked.

The sweet and sour fish soup had different flavors: IMG_2919

This photo shows many of the ingredients: IMG_2923

Bean sprouts, greens, squash, pineapple, and perfectly cooked excellent quality fish. The fish had no off or muddy flavors, tasted very fresh, and had been lightly grilled or fried so that the pieces of the filet stayed together. Really excellent.

The soups had come with a small bowl of ordinary rice, and the bill – gotta love no sales tax in Oregon – was quite reasonable: IMG_2926

Our friendly waitress, who was Lao, explained that the bistro is owned by a Cambodian/Lao couple, which helps explain the wide range of menu items. I would happily go back and wish I had an opportunity to work through more of the menu.

Mekong Bistro, 8200 NE Siskiyou, Portland, OR 97220; (503) 265-8972.

Dar Salam

Looking for our last Portland meal, Tina found Dar Salam, pointed out it had good ratings and that we hadn’t had Middle Eastern food anywhere on the trip. Sounded good to me and the restaurant looked inviting that morning in a modest neighborhood on NE Alberta: IMG_3136

We were early, no doubt the first customers of the day, and were both impressed by the pictures and memorabilia of Iraq that covered two walls of the restaurant: IMG_3138

Looking at the photos closest to us, you can see a wide range of vistas and individuals in Iraq. So many of the images seem to have a personal meaning and there was a poignancy just looking at the decor. It reminded me that exile from one’s friends, family, and native land is often very sad. Americans picture Iraq the way we see it on TV, full of violence, dust, rubble, and chaos. It wasn’t always like that: IMG_3137

Tina and I each ordered a soup. Her chickpea and onion soup (leblebi) was wonderful and healthy, flavors brightened by lemon juice: IMG_3139

I had the adis, an extremely smooth soup based on red lentils spiced with garlic and zatar: IMG_3142

Both soups were outstanding.

A large warm pita bread arrived next: IMG_3143

The joys of fresh Middle Eastern flatbreads. I pity those poor people (like us in Yuma) buying their pita bread in Kroger’s or Albertson’s. The bread came with a small bowl of all of olive oil and zatar: IMG_3144

Truth be told, neither Tina nor I used much of the flavored oil because the mezza plate showed up: IMG_3146

We loved it. The tzatziki was fresh and tangy. The hummus smooth and perfectly flavored. The baba ghanouj was perfect, extremely smoky and extremely flavorful. Good enough for a close-up: IMG_3147

The falafel was crunchy, rustic, and flavorful: IMG_3148

Overall the meal was as good as I could imagine. A perfect expression of Iraqi cuisine. Everything is prepared from scratch by the owner and his mother, truly prepared with love. I wish I could return and explore the whole menu.

And the bill was downright cheap: IMG_3150

Dar Salam, 2921 NE Alberta St., Portland, OR 97211, (503) 206 – 6148.

 

Ethiopian Twice in Phoenix: Gojo and Abyssinia

Ed and Tina recently got back from their summer vacation, so today, Ed (from Yuma) wants to share a couple meals they had in Phoenix. Tomorrow, it’ll be Kirk or Cathy writing.

Instead of flying out of Yuma and spending an entire day in airports and on airplanes on the way to Oregon, we opted to drive to Phoenix, spend the night, and fly out the next day. At the end of our vacation, we did the reverse. Both times we wanted to find good places to eat dinner close to the Phoenix airport. As it turned out, the small Ethiopian community in Phoenix was nearby, and we decided to have our first vacation dinner at Gojo: IMG_2892

We were greeted by a warm and friendly hostess. Ethiopian music was playing in the background, and one corner of the well-lit restaurant displayed reminders of Ethiopia: IMG_2894

It seemed like a neighborly local place and many of the customers knew each other and the hostess: IMG_2893

We started off with ice water and tasty homemade lemonade: IMG_2896

We ordered a meat combo platter as well as a veggie combo, which showed up first: IMG_2897

At the 6 o’clock position, closest to the viewer, were excellent collards that had a touch of bitterness and a touch of tang. Really good. In the middle were spicy split red lentils. Excellent fiery flavor. The cabbage had a hint of sweetness and was perfectly cooked. Both the whole lentils and the green beans and carrot were mild but had nice textures. The light brown purée on the right puzzled me at first because it had the smooth creamy texture of shiro (ground chickpeas) but with a more assertive flavor than I was used to. Our server explained that yes, indeed, it was shiro but flavored with berbere (hot Ethiopian chili spice blend). Only the yellow split peas were disappointing – thick and flavorless. The injera was soft and thin with a touch of sourdough flavor.

The meat combo had three items: IMG_2899

The beef, closest to the viewer, had a nice complex flavor and a restrained amount of heat, though a couple of the chunks were still a little chewy. The lamb (back left) and the chicken were much spicier and more picante with a pronounced berbere taste. The lamb had sliced onions and was very tender. The chicken had some large chunks and smaller flakes of meat throughout the sauce.

Tina and I were both extremely pleased with the meal. The items were distinctly flavored and the spiciness ranged from mild to hot. The bill was reasonable: IMG_2907

Gojo, 3015 E Thomas Rd, Phoenix, AZ 85016, (602) 840-3411

 

When we returned to Phoenix after 10 days in Oregon, we just had to try another Ethiopian place, Abyssinia: IMG_3162

Another clean well-lighted space with minimal décor and ambience, pleasant Ethiopian music and a warm and welcoming host. When he came to take our order, I was suggesting that we would have a combination veggie plate and a combination meat plate. “Oh that’s too much food for two people,” he said, “you should order the agelgel. It has three meats and four vegetables. It’s enough and you will like.”

He was right; there was easily enough food and we liked it: IMG_3155

The injera was very similar in style to Gojo and tasty. The yellow split peas here were an improvement, being more flavorful and creamier. The cabbage and carrots and whole lentils were fine, and again, the collards were outstanding, flavorful and perfectly cooked. The lamb, in the middle of the injera, was nicely spicy though not quite as fiery as the lamb at Gojo. The beef (at about 1 o’clock) was mild but flavorful and very tender.

Our favorite was the item closest to the camera – yawaze yebere tibs. More like a stirfry than most Ethiopian meat dishes, the jalapenos, onion slices, and beef chunks were perfect together and offered a very different spice profile from the other dishes.

I forgot to take a picture of the bill, but the agelgel was $19.95, and we just drank water, so another reasonably priced dinner.

What seems strange to me is that we had two excellent Ethiopian meals in Phoenix, really better imho than what’s available in SD. Yet I cannot recall ever reading anything in Chowhound (back when I read Chowhound) or in any other food site that mentioned the existence of Ethiopian food in the city. Sometimes I think the Phoenix food  writing is too focused on fancy high-end stuff and misses places like Gojo, Abyssinia, or even Pho 43. {my apologies to Phoenix New Times, which did a piece on Abyssina,}

 

Abyssinia, 842 E Indian School Rd, Phoenix, AZ 85014, (602) 795-4113

SGV: Sea Harbour Dim Sum; Norton Simon Art; Nha Trang Soups

Kirk and Cathy both work too hard, so today they're letting Ed (from Yuma) post here.

I recently wrote about seafood dinners Tina and I had on our first and last evenings in the San Gabriel Valley. This post is about the day in between.

That Saturday began just after 10 AM at Sea Harbour where we were seated immediately and asked what kind of tea we wanted. We hadn't thought about that so we went along with Jasmine which showed up quickly on our table: IMG_2837

It was pleasant, but our minds were on dim sum. We ordered items we had not had before, so no pork ribs, chicken feet, or shu mai. Instead, look at this pork and shrimp dumpling with truffle sauce: IMG_2844

Truffle flavors dominated. The shrimp and pork provided more texture than flavor – and that was fine with us.

The ox tendon and tripe in brown sauce was full of tender chewy tripe and tendon seasoned with five spice: IMG_2845

A lot of tendon and tripe. We both enjoyed our first few pieces, but this was one of those dishes where we could have used more pairs of chopsticks at the table. Too much of a good thing.

Tina had suggested baked mixed mushroom custard tart: IMG_2839

This was very tasty, full of mushroom flavors. The textures were perfect. The pastry was light and flaky, and the filling had little bits of crunch amid easy chewing slices of button mushrooms: IMG_2840

We also ordered the shrimp, dried scallop, and Chinese celery dumpling: IMG_2841

Kirk really enjoyed this dumpling on one of his visits to Sea Harbour, so we wanted to try it. He's right, the wrapper is faultless and the filling flavors spot on, the celery balancing the seafood: IMG_2851

On the other hand, I was surprised that Kirk never mentioned the steamed preserved salted egg yolk bun, which arrived looking pretty ordinary: IMG_2843

But inside was sweet gooey egg yolk: IMG_2848

The overall effect was like a warm rich sweet egg custard. The only problem I had was egg yolk squirting out of the bun when I bit into it. That could make for messy eating.

We thoroughly enjoyed the meal. Sea Harbour lived up to its reputation, and the price seemed reasonable: IMG_2853

Sea Harbour Restaurant, 3939 Rosemead Blvd., Rosemead, CA 91770, (626) 288-3939

 

After dim sum, we headed up to the Norton Simon Museum in Pasadena (website). As you'd expect, it has a modern and attractive entrance: IMG_2854

Our friend Penny recommended it, and we are very glad she did (thanks Penny). Though we did detour to find Adam and Eve by Cranach, we concentrated on modern art. There were five van Goghs on display including masterpieces like this portrait: IMG_2857

And even more Picassos: IMG_2859

We also enjoyed a special exhibit of works collected by Galka Scheyer, the art impresario who introduced modern art and artists (including Kandinsky and Klee) to California. While the Norton Simon is not on the scale of LACMA or the Getty, it is an impressive collection.

Norton Simon Museum, 411 West Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, California 91105, (626) 449-6840

 

We wanted something simple and low-key for dinner. Vietnamese noodle soup sounded just about right, and Nha Trang – which specializes in bun bo hue and bun rieu – had a location about a mile from our hotel. It all seemed easy, we had no trouble finding a parking place, and then we realized it was closed (who knows why). So Tina's smart phone located another Nha Trang in Alhambra, not too far away: IMG_2874

Again we were eating early and were the first customers of the evening: IMG_2863

The small menu was printed on the placemats: IMG_2861

In addition to soups, we ordered eggrolls that were quite good, savory and crispy fried: IMG_2871

Originally there were more. They were served with lettuce and fresh herbs: IMG_2872

I only wish they had arrived before our soups, though we did manage somehow to eat all of them.

The soups came with a generous plate of shredded lettuce and red cabbage, lime wedges, bean sprouts, and abundant fresh herbs: IMG_2866

Really fresh herbs, bunches.

I got bun rieu: IMG_2870

It was decent with nice seafood pork tomato  broth. Compared with the version at Mien Trung, however, it fell a little short. The broth wasn't quite as stellar, and the tofu wedges were dense and chewy. The crab/pork meatballs were fine and flavorful, but I missed the light chunks of crab cake (?) at Mien Trung.

On the other hand, the thin noodles were well prepared and those abundant herbs really stood out when added to the soup. Took it to another level.

Tina had the bun bo hue: IMG_2868

Excellent. Lots of beef, tender and flavorful. The pork was represented by chunks of pig foot, which Tina enjoyed gnawing. The thick noodles, not all clumped together, were nearly al dente with a firm bite. The spicy heat got our attention, but was not overwhelming. While the broth was not especially beefy, it had a preternaturally dark brown color. All in all, a very good bowl.

We were looking for a low-key dinner with good Vietnamese noodle soups. And we found it.

Nha Trang, 417 W. Main St., Alhambra, CA 91801 (626) 588-2833.

Two Seafood Dinners in SGV – Seafood Palace; Newport Seafood

Ed and Tina recently had an extended weekend in the San Gabriel Valley area, eating interesting food and going to interesting museums. So Kirk and Cathy get today off.

Tina had to work on Friday morning, so we came rolling into Temple City just about dinner time. After the drive, we were looking for something familiar and tasty, and Seafood Palace nee Seafood Village was certainly familiar (another post) and we hoped tasty.

We were happy to see the boiled peanut and pickled vegetable free appetizer: IMG_2824

Refreshing and enjoyable.

Of course, we ordered the house special deep-fried crab: IMG_2826

The flavors are impressive — Dungeness crab, dried red chilies, abundant small fried chunks of garlic, chopped scallions, and the crunchy tasty coating. This is no wimpy crab. Unfortunately, however, the crab itself was overcooked and lacked moist juiciness: IMG_2828

This was not a bad dish, it just fell short of its usual perfection.

On the other hand, the baked oysters in black bean sauce was close to perfect: IMG_2829

The oysters were firm and chewy, nicely breaded, and flavorful. The black bean sauce matched slight funkiness of the bivalves. We liked. We liked so much that we were halfway through before I stopped and took the photo.

And the house special fried rice was light and tasty: IMG_2830

The meal concluded with a small cup of sweet red bean soup: IMG_2831

In addition to the generally good food, we were pleased with the service; there appeared to be a floor manager who oversaw the waitstaff. Our waters were refreshed regularly, and plates full of shell bits were replaced with clean plates. The bill seemed reasonable: IMG_2832

Seafood Palace, 9669 E. Las Tunas, Temple City CA 91780, (626) 286-2299

For our last dinner in the San Gabriel Valley, we were looking for more seafood. Researching restaurants, we kept running across references to Newport Seafood; it seemed to be the gold standard for the area, but it was also expensive and famously over crowded, with long lines and waits of one to two hours.

Then I realized — we were planning on a Sunday night dinner, so there couldn't possibly be long lines. "But let's show up early, just in case," Tina suggested.

So at around 5:30 Sunday evening, we arrived at Newport Seafood, parking across the street to avoid the already crowded parking lot. Here's an exterior shot of the place: IMG_2891

Amazingly, there were already over a dozen people waiting for larger tables, but we got lucky and got the last booth. Here's a fuzzy interior shot: IMG_2877

There is also an area with several semi private rooms as well as the main dining room.

We had barely sat down when we were offered appetizers (not free) of boiled peanuts or cucumber chunks. We went with the cukes: IMG_2878

Very tasty, crunchy, spicy, and tangy — the nutty flavors of sesame oil in the background.

Since this was our splurge meal, we opted for some wine, ending up with the Raymond Napa Valley Chardonnay, which was okay though the restaurant was out of our first choice: IMG_2879

Then came hot and sour catfish soup: IMG_2881

Stunningly good. Not at all like Chinese hot and sour soup, this was redolent of the complex flavors of southeast Asia — pineapple, tomato, lemongrass, cilantro, green chilies, celery and more, closer to hot and sweet than hot and sour. Along with that good broth was a lot of catfish (wonderfully fresh, but somewhat bony) and numerous chunks of fruits and veggies along with chopped bean sprouts. A carnival of tastes.

But we had really come for lobster. The menu offers five different lobster presentations (including simply steamed), but whichever you choose, you get an entire lobster. We opted for the Newport special preparation. It arrived looking very special: IMG_2883

Chopped green chilies, diced scallions, and black pepper were the dominant seasonings. Lobster flesh exposed by the chopping had been breaded before the lobster was fried. While not as moist as steamed lobster, the meat was flavorful, fresh, and juicy when extracted from the shells: IMG_2886

The first-rate New England lobster was a real treat, and the preparation was flavorful.

We also ordered the clams in black bean sauce: IMG_2884

The black bean sauce didn't seem quite as tasty as the one at Seafood Palace two nights before. The clams, however, were perfect –exceedingly tender and mildly clammy, highest-quality bivalves treated well.

By this point of the meal, we realized a certain unplanned similarity between our two seafood dinners. Yes, Seafood Palace features chiu chow cuisine, and Newport Seafood is in the style of Tan Cang, a small port by the Mekong River estuary, but chiu chow dishes often show Southeast Asian influences. And yes, the fried crustaceans were different, as were the mollusks in black bean sauce, but the overall pattern of the dinners was largely the same, hence this post.

Anyway, at the end of the meal at Newport, we received a complementary chopped orange: IMG_2890

And the bill for the meal: IMG_2889

The overall experience Newport was positive. While the waitstaff was not as attentive as Seafood Palace, it was certainly professional and unobtrusive. The food was excellent. So we were happy as we walked out of the restaurant past the couples and families waiting for the next table to open up.

We had a good time in the SGV.

Newport Seafood Restaurant, 518 W. Las Tunas Dr., San Gabriel CA 91776, (626) 289-5998 (website

Buck & Rider – Seafood Dining in Phoenix

Ed (from Yuma) finally has the functional tools and the time he needs to write a post for the blog. Kirk and Cathy get a break today.

Not long before my computer became nonfunctional, Tina and I were in the Phoenix area to get together with her brother and wife and catch a spring training game. But we also wanted to have another lunch at Buck & Rider since our last meal there had been pretty good, and their menu contained a lot of dishes that we wanted to try. We arrived soon after they opened: IMG_2770

Since we were heading home after lunch, we decided to avoid drowsy driving and stick to sparkling water, refreshing on that hot day: IMG_2772

The choices of oysters were impressive considering Phoenix is in the middle of the desert: IMG_2773

We could watch the shucker (or is it shuckster?) at work: IMG_2776

We could even look at the oysters in their shells and inspect their documentation (papers please): IMG_2793

We ordered two High Rollers from Washington (Hood Canal) on the right of the picture, and two Madhouse from the Maryland Chesapeake: IMG_2778

They were served with lemon wedges and our choice of condiments; we picked cocktail sauce, which was spicy and tangy (but which I didn't use) and horseradish, which was pungent and freshly ground. With the horseradish, the taste of the bivalve was emphasized.

A close-up of a High Roller: IMG_2779

And a Madhouse: IMG_2783

While both were certified extra small, both were extra tasty, especially the one from the Hood Canal. Outstanding.

Tina's tuna burger, the next item to arrive at the table, fell short of outstanding: IMG_2784

The slaw was probably very healthy and certainly very bland. The bun was homemade and nicely grilled. The burger itself was large, filled with ground ahi, breaded and fried. The avocado portion was generous, but the sandwich never came together to my taste. The teriyaki like sauce on the burger and the chipotle mayo spread on the bun seemed an odd combination. And the fried exterior seemed an odd complement to the raw interior: IMG_2790

Likewise, the fries were just okay: IMG_2786

The portion was generous and the potatoes tasted fresh, but they lacked crispness and maybe had sat under a heat lamp for a little too long.

So I felt like I'd hit the jackpot by ordering the Port St. Lucie French Seabass sandwich: IMG_2788

Except for the slaw, this was excellent. The fish tasted fresh and flavorful. The roll, the breaded filet, the tomato, and the tartar sauce along with generous dill pickle made a flavorful combination.

Here's the check: IMG_2791

Was it worth it? Heck yes. The oysters (even though pretty spendy) and the seabass sandwich were outstanding. The tuna burger and the fries were okay; only the slaw was truly disappointing. We'd come back again.

Buck & Rider, 4225 East Camelback Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85018, (602) 346-0110. website

 

Ed’s SD Highlights: Prime, Golden City, Kokoro

Ed (from Yuma) writes about three spots in San Diego today. Kirk or Cathy will be writing about who knows what tomorrow. That's the way mmm-yoso!!! rolls.

These restaurants have been written about here previously, so I just wanted to touch on a few highlights.

Prime – I had a lunch at Prime Grill (website) featuring dolsit bi bim bap: IMG_2666

It was okay though my stone bowl didn't crisp up the rice very well, unlike Kirk's experience.

The eight ban chan items ranged from good to excellent. The squash was perfectly cooked and lightly seasoned: IMG_2663

Some broccoli I forgot to photograph was nicely highlighted with a tangy red sauce. And I have no idea what this earthy, slightly sweet and slightly woody vegetable is, but I liked it: IMG_2664

And of course the kimchi was outstanding: IMG_2660

I always used to wonder why some Korean restaurants served kimchi that was not as good as what I could buy in a jar in a Korean market. Prime’s is more complex and much better. I also enjoyed the metal teapot and cup: IMG_2656

The bill: IMG_2668

Prime Grill, 4620 Convoy, Ste A, San Diego 92111, (858) 277-0800

 

Golden City – it had been many years since my last visit, but this venerable Chinese restaurant (website) on Clairemont Mesa Blvd is a longtime favorite of Kirk and Cathy. Memory is a tricky thing, but the interior seems more modern and appealing than it used to be: IMG_2719

Talk about an extensive menu; here, actually, three menus: IMG_2720

Of course I had half of a kwai fei chicken: IMG_2722

Cold, intensely flavored, and very tasty. The bone splinters were the only unappealing part of the bird. Most of this went back to the room and the ice chest. Great for munchies.

Off the monthly specials menu, I ordered steamed fish and pumpkin in black bean sauce: IMG_2730

Except for being far too much food, this was wonderful. The fish was fall apart tender and fresh flavored. Its natural sweetness was complemented by the sweetness of the orange squash and contrasted by the savory umami of the black bean sauce.

The bill: IMG_2731

Golden City Restaurant, 5375 Kearny Villa Rd., San Diego 92123, (858) 565-6682

Kokoro – Tina and I really enjoyed our omakase here back in December, so it was my splurge dinner on my visit. I told Akio-san I was in the mood for some sashimi and some sushi – whatever he thought I would like – and I assured him I eat everything. Here is the sashimi platter: IMG_2671

The scallops seemed better this time, but the "like red snapper" fish at the front of the platter was outstanding, rich and chewy. The Santa Barbara uni also excellent.

The eight pieces of sushi, served one by one, were very good. The highlights: This black snapper was  attractive and had a nice firm mouth feel: IMG_2676

The toro was rich and tender as expected: IMG_2677

The hirame arrived with just a sprinkling of rock salt as did this wonderful plump oyster: IMG_2682

In both cases, the salt instead of shoyu emphasized the clean flavors of the seafood and the sweet/tangy flavors of the sushi rice.

But the number one highlight of the evening was this: IMG_2686

Alaskan cod ovaries served slightly warm. Rich creamy fecundity, even more decadent than uni, sinfully delicious.

The bill: IMG_2691

I don't usually discuss restrooms, but I was moved by the Ansell Adams poster on the wall: IMG_2693

It is sad to think about our government rounding people up, taking them from their homes, and putting them in camps.

Kokoro, 3298 Greyling Dr. Ste. B, San Diego, CA 92123, (858) 565-4113 (website)

 

Ajisen Ramen in San Diego

Kirk and Cathy are crazy busy now. Ed (from Yuma) is gainfully unemployed (also known as retired), so he has time for a post today.

I was in San Diego recently, staying on Clairemont Mesa Blvd, and I noticed a new large ramen location not too far from its intersection with Ruffner: IMG_2698

With the cool weather, I had been thinking about getting ramen on the trip, and when I saw that neither Kirk nor Cathy had posted about it, I thought I'd give it a try – probably taking one for the team since Kirk had been unhappy at Ajisen in Orange County.

So I arrived shortly after 11 AM. There were already a few cars in the sizable parking lot, and a few folks scattered in the modern, well-lit restaurant, which featured a variety of eating arrangements to accommodate individuals and groups of different sizes: IMG_2699

I was planning on having iced tea, so I was delighted to see a range of fruit flavored iced teas. This one is mango: IMG_2701

It was really good. Fruit sweet and full of mango flavor. Served in a covered to go cup along with a straw with one end cut at an angle making it easy to push through the lid.

The attractive menu was wide-ranging, including sushi and other Japanese dishes, but I was here for ramen. I ordered it with tender pork ribs (at lunch special prices). When it arrived at the table, it looked like this: IMG_2703

Up in Orange County, the Ramen was served warm, a real disappointment for Kirk; mine in San Diego was piping hot with little wisps of steam across the surface. At first the noodles were too hot for slurping, and when I finished, the broth was still warm and pleasant.

The noodles are not standard ramen (Kirk says Kumamoto style). They were, I thought, perfectly cooked, however. Not too soft and not too hard. Goldilocks style.

The cloudy broth was lightly porky with wakame overtones. Not as intense or rich as Santouka, but plenty good enough for this gaijin: IMG_2706

The wakame added color and flavor, and the cabbage provided a nice crunchy contrast to the other elements in the bowl.

The real hero of the soup, this ramen's main character, was the meat. Browned and nicely braised, the porkribs had toothsome chew. And a lot of tendon and cartilage and connective tissue: IMG_2707

Just look at this piece: IMG_2712

The service was professional, efficient, and reasonably friendly. I appreciated the bill arriving before I finished eating, making timely payment easy, and I appreciated the bottom line: IMG_2714

For 2017, this seems very reasonable.

Would I come back again?

For sure – at least for the fruity teas and the ramen with those ribs. The San Diego Ajisen Ramen, one of the over 700 branches of this large Chinese owned chain, seems to perform better than the shop Kirk visited in Orange County. And when I looked around the room, it was obvious that Ajisen has a wide appeal. On one side of me there was an older Asian couple and then a man from Charlotte, North Carolina, here on work, who'd never had ramen before. On the other side of me was a student from Japan. I am no expert on ramen; in fact I am pretty much a novice. For that reason, I enjoyed the clear menu and the table service, much easier for me than standing in line and trying to figure out the option grid at Santouka. Your mileage may differ.

Ajisen Ramen, 7398 Clairemont Mesa Blvd., San Diego 92111, (858) 277-1380. Website 

Julieanna’s in Yuma

Kirk and Cathy are really busy right now. Ed (from Yuma) not so much, so you get to read about a meal he and Tina recently consumed. Hope you enjoy.

One of the numerous benefits of marriage is that you have wedding anniversaries – it's like adding an extra holiday to each calendar year. Another cause for celebration.

But Tina and I couldn't figure out where to go for dinner. In addition to dining at the Patio at Desert Hills, we had been to River City for my birthday and Crouse’s Flat Top Grill for Tina's, and currently Yuma doesn't have a lot of special occasion dining choices. So . . . I finally suggested that we try Julieanna's. After all, our last bad experience there was at least seven or eight years ago; maybe that was too long to hold a grudge.

Julieanna's (website) is a large restaurant with patio located on 25th St. among doctors’ offices and other healthcare facilities. On this cool and breezy evening, the entrance was welcoming: IMG_2614We arrived around 5:30 on a Tuesday evening, so there were very few patrons in the two large interior rooms: IMG_2615On this evening nobody sat outside, so the resident peacock stared wistfully into the room, aware that he was not going to get any table scraps: IMG_2617

Our meal started with three fresh warm dinner rolls (Tina grabbed one before I could take the picture): IMG_2616

They were pleasant and were accompanied by two little metal ramekins of soft butter, one garlic herb and one maple cinnamon.

It took us a while to figure out what we wanted, but we finally decided on a salad, an appetizer and two entrées. Our very friendly and helpful server suggested that we start with the salad, which she could bring right away, and then follow with the appetizer. That made sense, so soon she brought over two plates of pear and candied walnut salad: IMG_2621

It was excellent. The tangy balsamic dressing complemented the sweetness of the pear and nuts. We were also impressed by the very fresh and sturdy baby lettuces in the salad.

Then the appetizer, fried calamari, arrived: IMG_2626

The squid was superb. The breading was hard and crunchy and most of it stayed attached. The calamari itself was clean tasting and tender chewy. Really perfectly done. The netting on the lemon wedges keeps lemon seeds out of the food, and there was a choice of dipping sauces – a spicy marinara or honey sesame.

Since we would be eating seafood, and I wanted a meat entrée, picking a wine was difficult, but I hoped that this Château Ste Michelle Riesling would work: IMG_2624

The riesling, which went well with the calamari, was crisp and moderately sweet, the wine bucket was fine, but the stemware was pretty ordinary.

For an entrée, Tina had chosen the crab two ways, with a pair of crab cakes and a tempura softshell crab: IMG_2629

Here you can see one of the cakes and the whole crab more clearly: IMG_2631
Tina was pretty happy. The lightly dressed greens and perfectly cooked yellow squash went well with the crustaceans. She also enjoyed the contrast between the two styles of crab. On the other hand, I thought the crab cakes were a little fishy tasting and the deep-fried softshell too greasy. Maybe the riesling wasn't the right wine for this entrée; a drier white like a sauvignon blanc might have been a better match.

I had chosen the pork chop, which showed up looking really wonderful: IMG_2632

Here's another view:

IMG_2633

I loved everything on the plate. The mashed potatoes were buttery and mixed with strips of caramelized onion. Rich, creamy, and nicely textured and flavored. The three large asparagus spears were perfectly cooked, tender but not limp. The dark paste smeared on one end of the pork was a medjool date sauce whose sweetness matched perfectly with the umami of the pork.

And the chop itself was outstanding – thick, flavorful, nicely seasoned, and perfectly cooked: IMG_2635

And this entrée went very well with the riesling.

The check seemed reasonable considering the quality of the food, service, and ambience: IMG_2637

The only odd thing on the bill was the “service charge,” an automatic 6% added to the food and beverages. I don't recall ever seeing such a thing in another restaurant.

Nonetheless, we had a great time, and maybe Tina and I should make celebrating our anniversary at Julieanna’s an annual affair.

Julieanna’s Patio Café, 1951 W. 25th St., Yuma, AZ 85364, (928) 317-1961.