ed fromyuma – Page 8

A Dinner at Giang Nan in Monterey Park: Road Trip

January 3, 2014 ed fromyuma Chinese Restaurants, Los Angeles County, Road Trip, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!, Xiao Long Bao

This post isn't about a Kirk Road Trip or one by Cathy. This post is about a meal Ed (from Yuma) and Tina had on a road trip exploring a little of the culture and cuisines in the LA area.

Tina and I were staying in Montebello, just south of Monterey Park. Saturday night was going to be our last dinner in the area. Of course, we would eat Chinese food, but Tina insisted “no seafood.” We were looking for something reasonable, no frills, no stress. Thanks to some posts by Kirk, we decided to try a Shanghai style dinner at Giang Nan – if we could find the small restaurant at the backend of a small anonymous strip mall at 306 N. Garfield. Luckily for us, it was all lit up for the holidays:

We were fairly early, so there were few other customers in the small restaurant when we arrived, and the place was not full even later when we left:

The restaurant seemed clean and nicely if sparingly decorated. The service was also friendly and knowledgeable – our young female waitperson was very helpful and pleasant. The menu was extensive and offered us a lot of choices, so we found some dishes we knew we wanted, but we just guessed about others.

We began with chicken in wine sauce ($4.95):

This cold chicken appetizer tasted fresh and clean with a light background flavor of the wine sauce. Very enjoyable.

The duck in supreme sauce ($5.95) was also pleasant. The thick sauce had a pronounced 5 spice flavor and complemented the chilled leg and thigh of roast duck. Sweet spice and savory flavors matching the cool rich duck flesh:

We felt we got lucky with our order of shredded pork and bamboo shoots ($5.95). Really enjoyed the textures of the pork, bamboo shoots, and green onions. The dish was lightly sauced so that each ingredient was present and accounted for. Of course, I am a huge fan of bamboo shoots since I just love their earthy woodsy flavor and unique texture, but it is hard to imagine anyone not relishing this dish:

We wanted a purely vegetable dish and braised green beans and shredded potato sounded different and interesting:

The dish arrived at our table still steaming hot. The green beans were perfectly cooked and the sauce, dark as it looked, was not too salty or overwhelming. Only the potato strips, which tasted too soft, like they came from a package of frozen french fries, were somewhat disappointing. Still they provided a bland and soft contrast to the crispier green flavored beans.

Our helpful waitperson had suggested that we have some rice with the meal, and when I asked her to recommend a particular rice dish, she eagerly pointed to the salted pork and vegetable rice ($5.95):

Her recommendation was spot on. In some ways, this was the most impressive thing we tasted all evening. The greens, the slightly salty pork belly chunks, and the hot, almost creamy rice were well balanced and the layered flavors of the dish all worked together. We thanked her a couple of different times for the recommendation.

The last item to arrive was an order of pork xiao long bao ($4.95):

These were really good. Although a couple of them had lost some soup, every one was wonderfully juicy:

The pork flavors of the dumplings were excellent, and the wrappers neither too thick nor too tough. We also appreciated their somewhat small size. Once they cooled just a little bit, they were perfect one-bite treats. It seemed odd to receive them at the end of the meal, but we had no trouble gobbling them all up. Just like a desert, I guess.

Not only was this a very reasonably priced dinner,:

but we received so much food that it was also our Sunday brunch as well, and we still felt bad throwing some leftovers away. Giang Nan is certainly not a fancy restaurant, but we will happily return for rustic Shanghai cuisine the next time we are in the area.

Giang Nan, 306 N Garfield Ave, Monterey Park, CA 91754, (626) 573-3421; Open 11 am – 3pm, and 5pm – 10 pm daily

Mi Rancho and Tacos Mi Rancho: Yuma Mexican from Daylight till Late Night

November 21, 2013 ed fromyuma Breakfast/Brunch, Mexican Restaurants, Taco Shops, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!, Yuma

Kirk and Cathy are eating today. They eat everyday. But they don't post everyday. So today, Ed (from Yuma) wants to tell you about Yuma's Flagship Mexican eateries. Come back tomorrow for different meals, in a different place, and with a different poster. But it'll be mmm-yoso delicioso.

I was thinking the other day about the restaurants I eat at regularly that I have never blogged about. At the top of the list would be Tacos Mi Rancho, this little converted fast food spot:

And its larger newer cousin, Mi Rancho:

While the menus for the restaurants are the same, and they both have a good selection of Mexican beers, some old-school locals prefer the funky ambience of TMR with its two small rooms, brightly colored walls, and visible A/C ducts. Mi Rancho is significantly larger and less gaudy, but certainly not fine-dining fancy. It also prepares decent margaritas.

Around 20 years ago I remember stumbling onto TMR and having one of the best Mexican lunches in my entire life (up to that time). When I later moved to Yuma, these restaurants became part of my regular rotation.

Part of the reason for that is the excellent homemade salsa, thick and full of chile, onion, and tomato flavors, nicely balanced and usually very picante:

The complimentary salsa and thin fresh corn chips (chips served only with lunch or dinner) are so good that I've taken a lot of pictures like this one over the years:

Or this one:

Both places are my favorites for Mexican-style breakfast in town (Fri – Sun, served until 11 AM)

Their kitchens prepare a range of standard breakfasts plates and omelettes, such as this Spanish omelette (sausage and cheese)($6.99):

Those potatoes, moist country fries cooked with onions and peppers, are a highlight of the breakfasts – standard with the breakfast plates until the kitchen runs out and substitutes rice:

Still, the quality chorizo makes huevos con chorizo($6.99) a good and spicy breakfast plate. Likewise, the huevos rancheros($5.99) are usually the best in town whether they come with rice or potatoes:

The crispy tortilla, the perfectly cooked, over-easy eggs, and the flavorful ranchero sauce are always enjoyable. I also love the chilequiles (corn tortilla chips covered with sauce and eggs)($5.99) but for some reason have no picture for this post.

Lunches are popular at both restaurants. The menu has numerous burrito and torta choices, such as this chicken torta($5.99):

At lunchtime, the senior menu also becomes the lunch special menu(all $6.99). Here's a chicken enchilada lunch special:

Two al pastor soft tacos – another lunch special:

Their green chili, tender chunks of pork in a nicely balanced mild green chile/tomatillo/cilantro sauce, is also available in the lunch special size:

The restaurant also has a large selection of "Mexican dinners" – rice, beans, tortillas, and an entrée – including such favorites as chiles rellenos($10.99):

Or folded tacos (here chicken)($10.99):

The menu also offers more entrée choices than any other Mexican restaurant in town, including liver and onions($10.99), chicherones rancheros($10.99), barbacoa($11.49), carne en su jugo($11.49) etc. For example, birria de chivo (goat meat in chile broth)($11.49) is always available – and always very tasty and authentically goaty:

In addition to their usual good menudo($7.99) and a classic caldo de res($10.99), TMR and Mi Rancho also occasionally have pozole:

Their soups come with chopped onions, cilantro, lemon/lime wedges, and other appropriate condiments so each customer can flavor and decorate her own soup:

The wide menu includes seafood choices as well, like this first-rate camarones rancheros($13.99):

Or this fresh tasting whole tilapia($11.99):

And here is an order of fish fillets in garlic butter($10.99) in a to-go carton:

In fact, I regularly grab dinners from Mi Rancho when I have to work late since few other good independent restaurants in town welcome customers or prepare a to go plate at 8:30 or 9 PM – which is late by Yuma standards. For example, here’s lengua (in ranchero sauce) ($11.99)I got for take out:

As you can see, I don't always make it home with the most attractive looking styrofoam. Nonetheless, this is tasty and spicy al pastor($11.49):

As I look over this post, I realized that I have mostly just provided pictures and brief descriptions. I guess that’s because these restaurants are like old comfortable friends, not exciting new finds. The food is usually good, but not wildly spectacular. It tastes pretty much how it looks. Mi Rancho has been voted the best Mexican restaurant in town by the readers of the local newspaper on several occasions. To me, that seems a pretty fair judgment. The menu offers a lot of choices, almost every dish will be well prepared, and the prices are very reasonable. The restaurants offer breakfasts, lunches, and dinners. The service is usually professional and generally good by Yuma standards. And the salsa is almost always great.

Tacos Mi Rancho, 188 S. 4th Ave., Yuma AZ 85364, (928) 783-2116; Mi Rancho, 2701 S. 4th Ave., Yuma AZ 85364, (928) 344-6903.

Dinner at Tarbell’s in Phoenix

November 13, 2013 ed fromyuma Fine Dining, Phoenix/Scottsdale/Chandler/Central AZ, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!

Since Kirk is still really busy, and Cathy deserves a day off, Ed (from Yuma) has a post today that wraps up recent food adventures in Phoenix, Arizona. Hope you enjoy. Come back tomorrow for something completely different.

After an afternoon of enchantment and befuddlement at the Phoenix Art Museum, Tina and I were looking forward to a special meal to conclude our stay in Arizona's capital city. It was dark when we arrived at Tarbell's, located in a large strip mall at the southeast corner of 32nd and Camelback:

As soon as we were seated in a tasteful dining room with white linen clad tabletops, we were handed menus and a wine list. Slices of crunchy French baguette accompanied with a superb olive oil arrived quickly. Truly outstanding smooth, fresh and flavorful olive oil, as good as or better than any Tina and I can remember:

The wine list was very extensive – and for that matter very expensive, listing numerous bottles of French Burgundy and Bordeaux with prices of several hundred dollars apiece. The kinds of wines I’d choose after winning the lottery. Unfortunately I had not hit the Powerball jackpot, so I appreciated the range of less expensive choices, including the first page list of Tarbell's most popular wines. Our primary waitperson was great at going over the list and helping us select something that would match our menu selections without completely busting the budget. We ended up ordering a bottle of 2009 Prophet’s Rock Pinot Gris from the central Otago region of New Zealand:

Considering that I had never heard of this part of New Zealand, at around 45° south latitude at the southern end of the southern island of that nation, I was amazed at the quality of the wine. While dry, the full-bodied and well-structured wine had layers of flavors with a fruity and flowery nose. As good a white wine as I have ever drunk – and as our server had predicted – it matched seamlessly with the variety of dishes we had ordered. I should add, at $76 it was the most expensive bottle of wine that I have ever purchased in a restaurant. But well worth it.

Tina had chosen the field greens salad ($9):

Much like the wine, this was truly outstanding. The long slices of cucumber, the chips of pickled carrot, and the beautiful halfmoons of watermelon radish added crunch and flavor to the wonderfully fresh salad greens. We were also impressed by the perfect dressing for this salad; again, the olive oil was spectacular and the dressing had just a hint of salt but minimal, if any, vinegary tang.

I had wanted to see how Tarbell's would present that old warhorse, the Caesar salad ($11):

While not as out of the world spectacular as the greens, this was a fine rendition. The thin crouton slices were dry, crunchy, and still flavorful. The baby romaine leaves were fresh and crisp. The dressing was lightly applied and tasted more of Reggiano Parmesan than anchovy.

Speaking of old warhorses, we decided to have an order of fried calamari ($15):

Although some pieces of the cephalopod were a little chewy, the non-greasy tempura coating added crunch and flavor. But what truly distinguished this version of fried squid were the accompanying sauces. The green sauce on the left tasted very cool and green – cilantro and lime flavors predominating. The red sauce on the right, by contrast, was spicy hot with chilies and tomato. Our taste buds debated over which was the best, but it was one of those conflicts both sides win.

Tina's entrée was Mr. Fish of the Moment ($38), Acadian redfish:

Wow! As nice fish dish as I can recall eating. Ever. The redfish was perfectly cooked, still moist and flaky. The micro greens, sliced radishes, and shredded carrot added a beautiful chromatic and textural contrast to the two fillets. This was all served on top of cellophane noodles in a perfectly seasoned mussel broth. While this sounds like a lot going on, everything went together very nicely. It took great restraint to keep me from licking up the brothy bits left on the plate.

I chose the scallop entrée ($38), four seared scallops accompanied by rice cake cubes, napa cabbage leaves, cilantro sprigs, and mussels with a creamy curry sauce.:

On the downside, this dish seemed a mumbo-jumbo to me. While the mussels and the curry sauce were excellent, I couldn't quite understand how they were connected to the rice cakes, cabbage leaves, and scallops. The plate itself was not especially attractive.

The upside, and it was a huge upside, were the scallops themselves, perfectly seared:

Yet not overcooked:

These rare scallops were obviously fresh and redolent of scallop flavor. Like the rest of the meal, they matched the New Zealand Pinot Gris. Yum.

At this point, I need to stress how wonderful the service at Tarbell's had been throughout the entire evening. Never stuffy and formal, never chatty and intrusive, every individual who served our table in any way performed her or his job in a friendly and professional manner. The primary waitperson who took our order was exceeding patient and helpful. She returned to the table 2 or 3 times while Tina and I wrestled with our dinner choices, making important contributions to the meal’s success. In addition, the runners and bussers were equally skillful from beginning of the dinner to its conclusion. We were never bothered and never abandoned.

Usually, Tina and I will share a single dessert, if we have any at all. This evening was an exception. Warm chocolate cake covered with chocolate sauce and topped with pistachio gelato sounded irresistible to me, but our helpful waitperson said the southern bread pudding with bourbon sauce was award-winning and not to be missed. I know when to order two desserts – in this was that time:

I can't add much to that picture. The cake ($9) was warm, dense, and chocolatey, and the chocolate sauce only intensified those characteristics. The pistachio ice cream and diced pistachio nuts added a nice contrast.

The bread pudding and bourbon sauce was also excellent ($9):

Along with those two, our waitperson brought us the vanilla cheesecake with rosemary caramel sauce (no charge):

I can't imagine that we looked like people who needed 3 desserts, but it was a nice gesture. Unfortunately, we had to take the cheesecake back to the motel because neither of us had any appetite or stomach capacity left.

Overall, Tina and I tuly enjoyed our meal. The food, the wine, and especially the service were all outstanding. We'd love to return. Another dinner here would be almost as good as that winning lottery ticket. Well, almost.

Tarbell's, 3213 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix AZ 85018, 602-955-8100. Open every evening, (except major holidays and Super Bowl Sunday) 5 PM-10 PM (9 PM Sundays). Website

Lunch at Pane Bianco in Phoenix

November 6, 2013 ed fromyuma Phoenix/Scottsdale/Chandler/Central AZ, Sandwiches, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!

Kirk is still busy, Cathy needs a day off, so Ed (from Yuma) does the food blogging here today. About a lunch that he and Tina had recently in Phoenix.

Back in 2010 when I told Tina that Chris Bianco’s Pizza Bianco
had just been named the best pizza in the United States, she said, "I used
to eat at his restaurant all the time when I lived in central Phoenix."

"Huh, you stood in line for 4 hours for pizza?"

"No, his other restaurant was my neighborhood sandwich
shop." So if we were spending a weekend in central Phoenix, a visit to Pane
Bianco had to happen:

The understated exterior of the restaurant was matched by
the funky/shabby hipness of the interior. Having once aspired to being
funky/shabby hip, I felt right at home:

The lunch menu listed a few "bar bites" for around
$5, and sandwich and salad choices priced between $9 and $12. The other side of
the menu had a limited selection of sodas, beers, and wines as well as the
sparkling water we chose ($3):

I'm surprised I'd never run across Mountain Valley sparkling
water before as it was pleasant tasting and refreshing. I also enjoyed the
rustic looking tabletop.

We selected 2 sandwiches, both of which came with an
interesting potato salad composed of thinly sliced potatoes, chopped apples, cabbage,
shredded red cabbage, sliced red onion, and minced parsley. The mustard seeds,
other spices, and light dressing gave it all kind of a central European flavor.
The salad is in the foreground of this picture of the sopressata sandwich that had
been Tina's favorite back in the day:

As you can see, the excellent salumi had been sliced paper
thin:

The sopressata was wonderfully matched by the aged
provolone. This was not your standard waxy tasteless Italian cheese, but a full
flavored partner to the sausage, dry and a little bit crumbly. The woodfired
onion was a nice touch as well. My only complaint – and really my only
complaint about the whole meal – was that the homemade focaccia was a little
tough and chewy as if it had been baked the day before. Nonetheless it was
altogether a satisfying sandwich:

Our other lunch selection was the "market sandwich,"
featuring lamb that had been braised overnight:

We both thought the sandwich was unusual and interesting.
The tender meat had a pronounced lamb flavor and was topped with chopped
cabbage and roasted red pepper strips:

In both cases the sandwiches were perfectly simple and
focused – no mayo, no mustard, no catchup, no sliced tomato, no pickles; just
very good basic ingredients.

Pane Bianco, 4404 N. Central, Phoenix AZ 85012; (602)
234-2100.

Bink’s Midtown in Phoenix Arizona

November 3, 2013 ed fromyuma American/New American Restaurants, Fine Dining, Phoenix/Scottsdale/Chandler/Central AZ, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!

Today Kirk is really busy. Cathy is busy. But Ed (from Yuma) recently got back from a weekend in Phoenix where he ate food.

Tina and I were in Phoenix to look at stuff in art museums,
go shopping, and eat some interesting food. On Friday night, we got a
reservation for Bink's Midtown, the newest restaurant of Kevin and Amy Binkley,
who have gained a reputation for innovative culinary approaches.

It took us a couple of minutes to find the location which is
in a converted old house and is not located at a street corner nor in a strip
mall. At night, this sign should help you find the restaurant:

In addition to a large patio area, whose 8 – 10 tables were
fully occupied when we arrived at 6:45, the restaurant offered 2 or 3 sizable
rooms decorated with vegetable/plant paintings along
the white walls and white butcher paper atop white linen on the tables. While the
focus was clearly on the food, not the decor, the rooms were cheerful, tasteful,
and utilitarian although a bit noisy when all of the tables were occupied.

The emphasis in the restaurant is on fresh local produce. A list of dishes featuring local produce comes attached to the main menu
with a clothes pin. Cute and functional, I gotta say:

The produce-centric items were divided into Cold, Hot, and
Salad sections, with a couple of soups at the bottom:

The wine list was a single page divided into whites and
reds. While a modest list by fancy restaurant standards, many choices in both
categories would have satisfied us. Some wines were also available by glass and by
carafe.

After talking with the helpful server, Tina and I decided on
one item from each produce section as well as an appetizer and a main course,
all of which we would share. We would start with a carafe of white wine, but we
wanted a Pinot Noir from Oregon (Purple Hands) to accompany the duck. Our white
wine choice, an anonymous riesling from Alsace, was the first thing to show up
at our table:

It was a good match for most of our dinner as the wine
opened with fruity and flowery notes, but had a smooth dry finish, making it
very versatile.

The beet produce plate arrived next:

We were delighted. The thinly sliced cool yellow
beets were accompanied by salted hazelnuts, blueberries, chunks of feta goat
cheese, and a few baby greens. The dressing was a mild olive oil and berry
vinaigrette. Two major interplays dominated the dish. There
was a sweet salty balance, the berries and beets playing off against the cheese
and nuts. Similarly there was an interesting textural variation with the
crunchy hazelnuts at one polarity and soft berries and creamy feta cheese at
the other. Wow! An outstanding beginning.

We were about halfway through the beets when the arugula and
fig salad landed on the table. About a minute later, the duck breast flew in
from the kitchen. A cast-iron bucket of mussels found a spot near the middle of
the little two-top, and a cast-iron serving tray filled with the slices of
summer squash gratin plopped down on the one small part of the table not
already occupied by food, utensils, and wine.

The chaos seemed overwhelming at that moment. Where to
start? How to eat all of these things at once? I was on the verge of a foodie
meltdown when Tina decided we should do some prioritizing. The cold salad could
wait for later. No point in attacking the duck without the Pinot Noir to go
along with it, and there was no point in requesting that wine since
there was no place for it anywhere on the small table anyway.

So we concentrated on drinking the pleasant riesling,
finishing the wonderful beets, and savoring the mussels and the squash while
they were hot and fresh from the oven. The perfectly prepared mussels were
bathed in a light creamy curry sauce with pronounced lemongrass flavors:

Although that picture doesn't show much – black mussels at
the bottom of a black cast-iron bucket are not the most photogenic food items –
the mussels were outstandingly tender and fresh. The accompanying bread was
slightly sweet and had an interesting texture: firm, but not chewy or crunchy.
I wished I had more of it to soak up the flavorful broth.

The summer squash gratin was also very nicely done. While
the menu described it as a "purée," the serving tray contained thin
interleaved slices of yellow and green squash:

The slices were perfectly cooked, not soft and not raw.
Overall, the dish emphasized their flavor, and the Parmesan stayed in the
background. If this had been served as a side dish in a steakhouse, I probably
wouldn't have paid much attention to it, and that would've been a shame,
because it was splendid. So good that I had to remind Tina to eat some of it before I gobbled it all up.

At this point, we got the attention of a waitperson who cleared
some table and brought over the carafe of Oregon Pinot Noir (and appropriate
stemware) (sorry, no picture). Now Tina and I could turn our attention to the
remaining 2 items.

The sizable arugula salad had a lot going on:

The arugula itself was mounded on top of strands of
spaghetti squash, covered with shredded pecorino Romano, and dotted with halves
of black mission figs, chunks of dried apricot, and pieces of pecan. The menu
says there was a horseradish/honey dressing, but I didn't notice it. To me, the
emphasis in the salad was on the ingredients, and each bite was a little
different than the one before. As with the beet appetizer, sweet/salty tastes
and a range of textures predominated.

Finally, we turned to the roasted duck breast, still warm
enough to make for pleasant eating:

We had requested the duck to be medium rare and were both
pleased that it had not been overcooked. The crunchy skin accented the smooth
rich flavor of the waterfowl. The seasoning was perfect for my palate; first the savor of duck breast
filled my mouth, and then the notes of Chinese 5 spice contributed to a long
and complex finish. The Purple Hands Pinot Noir was a perfect match, having
enough earthy body to stand up to the duck.

Although the simultaneous arrival of most of the dinner was
a bit disconcerting, and the noise made it sometimes hard to converse, Tina and
I really enjoyed our night at Bink’s. The food preparations were all tasty and
most of them were very imaginative as well. We also appreciated the emphasis on
local and seasonal produce. Considering the quality of ingredients and the
skill of preparation, the price of our dinner for 2 seemed like a good value
for a special meal:

Next time, we will order a fewer dishes at a time and take
more control of the organization of the meal. The originality of the
preparations and quality of the food really deserve a more leisurely pace, and
each plate is worthy of a diner's attention and focus.

Bink’s Midtown, 2320 E Osborn Rd, Phoenix, AZ 85016; (602)
388-4874; Open 11Am (10 on Sunday), closed 10 pm (11 Fri & Sat).

Jector’s Too – Yuma

October 29, 2013 ed fromyuma Mexican Restaurants, Sandwiches, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!, Yuma

Most days this foodblog has fresh posts from Kirk or Cathy. But today, Ed (fromYuma) gets to tell you about a new old place (or is it an old new place?) in Yuma.

Ana’s (also spelled Anna’s) had been a tiny Mexican
eatery in my neighborhood of Yuma for as long as I can remember. It always
seemed like a cart/restaurant crossbreed with its tiny kitchen, window
service, and small eating area surrounded by steel cage walls. A minimalist burrito shack:

Sort of open to the outdoors, the ordering/delivering area is
pretty shabby looking as well:

About a year ago I noticed that the place had more customers
than usual, and when I stopped in, I was told that Ana’s had been sold to
Jector, of Jector’s Breakfast Burritos. Now it is called Jector’s Too:

So today you can get a wide range of breakfast burritos
there – most of the ones available at the original location. In addition, the
new management has not discarded the best parts of Ana’s old menu. That means
they will fix you a breakfast burrito with carnitas or al pastor as well as
bacon, sausage, or asada:

You can also get excellent lunch burritos with fillings such
as green chili:

A couple of years ago, Ana’s won the local newspaper poll
for the best menudo in town, quite an accomplishment for such a small place.
And Jector’s Too still prepares outstanding Menudo on Friday, Saturday, and
Sunday:

The rich broth filled with abundant tripe and nixtamal is
certainly one of the best in town. It comes with a grilled bread roll (or
tortillas), as well as onion, cilantro, dried chili flakes, and lemon or lime
wedges:

Really yummy:

But my main attraction here are the first-rate tortas.
Sometimes the carnitas is as good as it gets:

A Torta DF (in the style of Federal District – Mexico City
area) is a specialty of the house, a ham ‘n cheese/roast pork combo:

Recently, the al pastor has been specially tasty and spicy:

:
Other tortas – and I’ve tried every one – are just as good
even if I don't have pictures of them. I also love the jalapeno and carrot escabeche
that is included. A bite or 2 of hot pickle cuts through the richness of the
sandwich and, for me, adds just the right touch.

Dinner plates and excellent aguafrescas also available.

Too often restaurateurs open a 2nd location and everything
starts going downhill. Not this time.

Jector's Too, 252 E. 24^th, 928-539-9595. Open daily around 7 am;
closes 6pm M-S and 2pm Sun.

A Long Story, a Longer Line, and Dinner at Phil’s B-B-Q

October 10, 2013 ed fromyuma American/New American Restaurants, BBQ, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!

It's old Ed (from Yuma) drinking some old wine and standing in a long SD line. Cathy and Kirk will be posting here again soon.

My old buddy Steve had a couple of days free in San Diego recently, so I drove over for some conversation and food . . . and wine. Steve had brought a bottle of 1992 Caparone Cabernet Sauvignon, Bien Nacido Vineyard. "It's 21 years old," I said, "old enough to drink.":

We had been out walking around Mission Beach and Mission Bay earlier on Sunday, but we wanted to watch the last half of the Chargers/Cowboys back at the motel. That way, we could relax and sample that well aged California Cabernet.

As it turned out, the wine was smooth and still flavorful, and the Chargers game was way better than expected, San Diego scoring 17 points in the 2nd half and winning 30-21. When the game was over, Steve and I were very hungry, but neither of us felt like driving around looking for dinner. Since we each had a room at what I call "The Exploding Motel", the 2 main restaurants within easy walking distance were a Red Lobster and Phil's BBQ, so we arrived at Phil’s around 5:30:

I assumed there would be no line – after all, we were dining early on a Sunday, but half of Qualcomm Stadium must have descended on Phil that late afternoon. Many in the line that extended from the entrance over to and around the corner and then along the side were wearing Cowboys or Chargers gear. Steve and I waited for almost 30 min. before we came up to the sign telling us we had only around 21 more minutes to wait. And all of that waiting only led to placing an order at the counter; at that point, we were given a plate with silverware, cleanup wipes, and a pager so that we could grab our food when it's ready:

After this nearly hour-long process, I hoped the food would be worth it.

I am not a barbecue purist or fanatic. I grew up in southern Oregon, not southern Tennessee, and I was an adult before I ever experienced slow cooked fully smoked pit barbecue. I’d heard enough about Phil’s to know that it’s ‘cue for the masses, not connoisseurs. I was okay with that, really.

The first taste I got was a slice of tri-tip from an El Toro sandwich ($6.95). The very tender chargrilled meat had a nice smoky flavor, there was a lot of it, and it was covered in Phil's sauce. In fact it's hard to see that this picture is a photo of a sandwich at all.:

Steve tells me that the onion rings in the photo were really tasty, and if the speed by which they disappeared is any indication, he was right. They were part of a "baby back rib tickler" – 3 ribs, two onion rings, coleslaw, and fresh cut fries ($6.95). Here is the rest of a tickler:

The sides I tried at Phil's BBQ were good. While the french fries were not especially crisp, they had a good clean fresh potato flavor. With a little malt vinegar and some ketchup – a bottle of each is on every table – they were quite tasty. The coleslaw was even better. It was not gooey, runny, sugary, or overdressed in any way. The cabbage and vegetables were crisp and the tangy dressing was a perfect match. Steve tells me that the corn on the cob was also good even though late September is not its prime season.

Unable to make up my mind, I had ordered the "baby back ribs and chicken dinner" ($12.95), pictured here with the large side of corn on the cob and a small extra side of coleslaw.:

I had no complaints about the chicken. It tasted as if it had been roasted over mesquite, and it had not been overcooked. The breast, while not the most flavorful meat, still was moist and slightly smoky. The skin on the chicken quarter was consistently flavorful.

Phil sez "The Sauce is the Boss," as the menu explains, so it covered both and chicken and the ribs. And it is excellent and spicy barbecue sauce. Its vinegar tang balances the sweet notes on the plate and cuts through the richness of the meat.

The ribs themselves, on the other hand, were disappointing. Certainly tender enough, the ribs were also moist with a slight smoky flavor. However, they exhibited the effects of parboiling – the background taste of boiled pork and a soft gray color lightly tanned and dotted with specks and splotches of black:

They looked nothing like the well browned and charred barbecued ribs on the flat screens in the restaurant or the pictures at Phil’s website.

I'm not saying that these ribs were terrible or inedible, but they were mass produced and not individually crafted. They needed the complex sauce to cover over their shortcomings.

I'm also not saying you should avoid Phil's – even considering the long lines, the friendly but minimalist service, and the mundane interior:

Going to Phil's BBQ has become an authentic San Diego experience. The chicken and the side dishes are generally good. The prices are truly excellent. I still marvel at 4 ribs, a quarter of a chicken, and two generous side dishes altogether for $12.95. Phil’s is fine, but seek out real ‘Que elsewhere.

Phil’s BBQ, 3750 Sports Arena Blvd., San Diego, CA 92110, 619-226-6333. Closed on Mondays. Locations also in San Marcos and Santee.

The Fishery in PB – One More Time

September 30, 2013 ed fromyuma Fine Dining, Seafood, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!

It's Ed (from Yuma) again, this time having a dinner with Tina at The Fishery in Pacific Beach. You're invited to join them. Kirk and Cathy will happily share meals with you at the blog as well, just not today.

I have no memory of my first visit to The Fishery on Cass Street in Pacific Beach, but I know the restaurant opened back when I was a denizen of PB in the late 90s. In 2009, I posted about a couple of meals Tina and I had at the restaurant. Unfortunately we hadn't been back since.

The exterior of the restaurant has not changed as far as I can tell:

And the interior still has hard wooden tables, wooden walls, a fish counter, and very little noise abatement, making the restaurant occasionally LOUD on the busy Saturday night when we visited. Soon after we arrived, Nate, a professional and helpful server, brought us menus and a wine list. He answered our questions, and when asked for help choosing a wine, he suggested the Lagar de Cervera, Albariño, 2011, from the Rias Biaxas region of coastal Galicia in Spain.:

It was good, beginning with clean flavors of tart apple, opening up with a more generous mouth feel and depth and complexity of flavor, and concluding with a smooth and lingering finish. It also complemented the seafood we ordered .

Our meal began with some slices of good but not outstanding bread alongside a whipped lightly herbed butter:

The white bread had a nice crust but isn't especially memorable. The brown bread was in the style of a German bauernbrot, slightly nutty with a mild taste of rye flour –kindof like pumpernickel but neither as dense nor intense.

A good-sized bowl of clams cooked in a spicy white Bordeaux wine reduction showed up next.:

The clams were small and slightly chewy though they were flavorful, garlicky, and fresh. The salty and strong flavored broth was great for dipping the little clams and the crunchy slices of garlic bread.

We had each ordered a soup. The clam chowder was nothing exceptional, containing few clams or potatoes; however, it was very well balanced, smooth, and creamy:

The very fishy seafood soup was more interesting and complex.:

Throughout the soup, chunks of various fishes, large pieces of tomato, and abundant celery, onion, and green pepper slices provided texture as well as flavor. We agreed it was outstanding:

Tina's entrée was macadamia encrusted Alaskan halibut.:

The perfectly cooked piece of halibut rested on a soft fluffy bed of buttery mashed Yukon potatoes. The fish was topped with fresh frisee and slices of red pear.:

Circling the plate was a spicy purée of chilies and red stone fruit. The sweet spicy flavors were accented by the small pickled red chile slices.

I chose the fresh local sea bass – which I thought was perfectly cooked to just beyond rare:

While the same buttery mashed potatoes underlay the fresh filet, it was topped with a tart apple slaw and accompanied by grilled and charred baby brussel sprout halves and tasty mustard vinaigrette. Where Tina's fish’s flavors had been lit up by sweet spicy accents, my naturally sweet sea bass was contrasted with tangy slaw and vinaigrette. We both love our entrées.

Overall, Tina and I were delighted with the meal. Sometimes it was a little too noisy for us to easily carry on a conversation, but the service and the food and the overall experience left us feeling full and happy. Though not cheap, we felt the dinner was a reasonable value:

The Fishery, 5040 Cass St, San Diego 92109, 858-272-9985

Yuma: Red Rose – Sang Chan – A Touch of Thai

September 18, 2013 ed fromyuma Thai Restaurants, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!, Yuma

Believe it or not, it is really Ed (from Yuma) with another post about Yuma. I'm happy to be posting again after getting overwhelmed with work and family/health issues etc. Jeez, sometimes it's nice to have my main worry being what to eat!! It's also nice to be writing about a real Thai restaurant in Yuma AZ. How cool is that?

I was meeting Greg for lunch. "Where d’ya wanna go?" I asked.

"How about the new Thai restaurant in Foothills?"

"Huh? Where? What?” That was how I learned about Red Rose, which has morphed from a food cart parked in a lot by Fortuna Road last winter into a real brick and mortar restaurant in Pioneer Plaza. Of course, I was game for some Thai food – but skeptical, all things considered.

The restaurant occupies the space that once housed Kodiak Seafood:

The interior of the small place is tastefully furnished, but it is small with only 2 large tables and 5 or 6 smaller ones:

In the last week, I (with Greg, and with Tina) have been able to sample a variety of the dishes on the Thai part of the menu, which includes over 50 items. Tina and I started one meal with deep-fried spring rolls ($7):

These were served fresh from the fryer too hot to handle. Although no lettuce leaves were provided to help one pick them up, the accompanying ketchup based sauce was a nice balance between sweet and savory. While just a little greasy to the touch, each crunchy wrapper contained a nice selection of thinly sliced vegetables and clear noodles:

The papaya salad ($9) provided an excellent contrast:

The perfectly fresh, shredded papaya came with shredded carrot, tomato slices, Thai chilies, and a generous topping of peanuts. All of us loved the flavors, the very fresh crunchy papaya shards balanced by sweetness, spiciness, and touches of lime and savory. While I missed mashed long beans, everything else I would expect in a papaya salad was there. This is also probably a good time to mention that Red Rose will prepare dishes very spicy, if you request it. I suspect they would be happy to serve something "Thai spicy" on request though I have not been feeling that courageous recently.

The larb (available only with chicken) ($9) was also a hit with everyone. This dish showed off the tender sweetness of the chicken balanced by a deep funkiness in the sauce. While there was not much dried rice powder, this was a very satisfying item:

The yum woonsen ($9) cellophane noodles were another good and satisfying item for a hot day in Yuma:

Available with either ground chicken or ground pork, we liked the cool clear noodles highlighted with citrus flavors and spice. The sliced red onion and diced green onion provided contrast.

The Tom Yum seafood soup ($14) was generally excellent. I liked the range of seafood, 3 or 4 good sized shrimp, tender chunks of squid, sea scallops, and mussels (no fake krab anywhere). All were complemented by the savory funky spicy seafood broth, with tomato, chopped green onion, and various slices, chunks and leaves of Thai spices:

I've also had the chance to try two different curries. The yellow curry (ordered with tofu as the protein choice) ($9) was the less impressive. The mild sweet curry sauce didn't seem quite flavorful enough to make up for the numerous bland potato chunks and the cubes of fried tofu. Perhaps if we had ordered it very spicy or chosen a different protein, the results would have been better:

On the other hand, a daily special, the green curry with avocado (with chicken as the protein choice) ($14) was a hit with all of us. The green curry sauce was nicely balanced with sweet, tangy, and hot spicy notes. We also liked the mix of vegetables – the asparagus was a good addition to the peas, carrots, and sweet peppers, – and the abundant avocado chunks were smooth and buttery:

Similarly, the spicy scallop stirfry ($14) was quite good. The scallops were very fresh and not overcooked. The whole dish contained deep savory flavors. In addition, we liked the green beans and the fresh garden peas still in the pod. In fact, the presence of actual fresh peas in this dish and in the green avocado curry was a nice touch at a time when so many restaurants fall back on the convenience of frozen peas:

We also had to try a noodle dish, and I know that Kirk often has pad see ew when he goes to a new Thai restaurant, so that seemed like a good choice for us as well ($9):

Again we were impressed. The shredded fresh veggies added crunch and the cooked vegetables were al dente, another good texture addition. The sweet soy flavor of the dish was appealing, but the noodles weren't drenched in sauce. We were also happy to see some wok hey, evidence of a properly hot wok .

The restaurant has several beverage choices, including Thai iced tea:

Even better, they have an Arizona BYOB license so that customers may bring their own wine or beer.

Overall, I think Red Rose does very well. While not the best Thai food I have ever eaten, it is certainly the best Thai food that I have eaten in Yuma. Better than a lot of Thai food I've eaten in California. I'm impressed by the range of the menu, the consistent freshness of ingredients, the balancing of flavors, and the willingness to prepare dishes spicy. I also should mention that perogies (Ukrainian style) and a hot dog (keep the kiddies happy) are on the last page of the menu. But for right now, I'm sticking with the Thai food. My only worry is that this tiny restaurant will be so overcrowded by December that I won't be able to get a table anymore.

Red Rose – Sang Chan – A Touch of Thai – Thai Ukrainian American, 11274 S. Fortuna Road, Pioneer Shopping Center, 928-342-7777. Open Tuesday – Sunday from 11 am to 8:30 pm.

Ed’s Easy Looozanna Style Greens

August 4, 2012 ed fromyuma Cajun, Southern, and Soul Food, Cooking, Recipes, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!

mmm-yoso!!! is a foodblog. Kirk posts the most about his cooking and eating at home and in restaurants around the world. He lets Cathy and Ed (from Yuma) post about eating and cooking as well. Today, Ed is sharing a favorite easy meal he likes to fix.

I still remember the first time I ever tasted stewed greens. I was picking up an order of fried chicken to go, and the clerk asked which two side dishes I wanted. On a whim, I decided to try the greens because I had heard about greens but never tasted them. It was love at first bite.

Since then, I have worked at learning how to make greens. Nowadays, some version of stewed greens is my default choice to bring to a Super Bowl party or other potluck. Of course, I never make it exactly the same, but I thought I would share my basic recipe with my friends at mmm-yoso!!!

To make a mess of greens as a main course for two or three people, I would start with a couple of bunches of greens:

The greens on the right are collards, the ones on the left mustard greens. Collards tend to have a firm texture and a very mild cabbage like flavor. To my taste about 1/2 to 1/3 of the greens should be collards. Mustard and turnip greens have a more pronounced flavor and a softer texture. I usually choose whichever one is available and looks the best in the store. It is perfectly okay to mix all three.

Then I remove all of the large central stems. I know some people leave them in, but the stems have little flavor and cook at a different rate:

Then I always wash the greens:

One thing that can really ruin greens is having dirt and grit in the final product. Rinsing also gets rid of any dust and reduces lingering pesticide – if any – I hope.

I then spread the leaves on top of each other on a cutting board and cut through them horizontally and vertically so that most pieces will be 1-2 inch squares:

The other ingredients are even easier to prepare. I cut an onion in half, peel it, lay it down on the cut sides, and slice it lengthwise:

Then slice it horizontally to produce a pile of onion:

Half an onion would have been sufficient for two bunches of greens, but little extra onion doesn't hurt.

To make good greens, I always use some type of smoked/salted meat. My absolute favorite is Bruce Aidells Cajun Style Andouille smoked pork sausage:

This sausage adds complex spicy notes to the smoked meat flavors. I think of it as Looozanna style greens when fixed this way. This particular evening, I sliced up three links to put in the pot:

The number of sausages can vary without changing the basic recipe. In general, one to two sausages per bunch of greens is great if I'm serving the dish as a main course. If I'm bringing it to a potluck or serving it as a side dish, I might use one sausage link for every 3 or 4 bunches of greens.

The cooking process for the greens is very simple. On this evening, I used Tina's 12 inch Dutch oven:

I began by sautéing the onions in a couple three tablespoons (I actually did not measure) of oil:

After they were softened and turning translucent, I added the sliced Andouille sausage and just cooked long enough to warm the sausage slices:

I then put in the collards, nearly filling the pot:

After I stirred them quickly, I dumped in the mustard greens:

Now you can see why using a large Dutch oven or similar stewpot comes in handy.

At this point, I always add some chicken stock. This particular time, I used Kitchen Basics unsalted broth since the sausages are salty themselves:

Two scant cups of stock were plenty of liquid:

I also added a half teaspoon (or so) of black pepper and at least as much red pepper. Sometimes I have used Korean crushed red chilies, sometimes Italian style hot pepper flakes, but Tina's friend Krystal had sent us some excellent spicy and flavorful Basque ground red peppers, which added a nice zing to the dish: