Roadtrip: Shanghailander Palace (Hacienda Heights)

I took some time off at the end of last week. We had an appointment in LA and since I'd been working pretty hard over the last couple of months, I thought it would be good to take an extended roadtrip. Our first day would be in our old neighborhood of Rowland/Hacienda Heights and then we'd move further "North" for a few days.

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IMG_1957Since this was a multi-day trip, we stopped at HK Plaza to stock up on some snacks and tea for our trip.

We also took the time to see what was going on here…..

We weren't too hungry, but of course we also didn't want to squander a lunch, so we headed to a place that caught the Missus' attention the last time we stayed in the area. According to what I've read, Shanghailander Palace was aiming to be the area's equivalent of Shanghai No. 1 Seafood Restaurant. So we stopped by to have a light lunch.

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Shanghailander 02Arriving at almost 2 pm on a Wednesday, we were shocked to see how busy the place was! The crowd was composed of mostly older folks and larger groups. I really could have done without the middle aged woman dressed almost "cosplay" style in a short plaid skirt, blouse, and schoolgirl like sweater….yikes, it gave me the heebies!

The service was rather slow, but it could be understood since the place was slammed.

We started with the Xun Yu – "Shanghai Style Smoked fish", which as I've often explained, isn't really smoked. In what seems like the "new style" of Hu Cai (滬菜), this is served warm (deep fried after marinating) rather than as a cold dish.

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I enjoyed this version as it was light, mildly "winey", not too sweet (though still too sweet for the Missus), with a nice soy flavor. Even though this was obviously fresh water fish; it lacked the muddy flavor I find unpleasant. This was much better than the version at Shanghai Number 1. I also thought the portion size was nice for an appetizer.

I will say that the tea we ordered – Ti Guanyin, a favorite of mine was just plain insipid.

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I didn't see one of my favoite dishes; jellied pork on the menu, so we went with the mutton version instead.

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I loved the texture, but the sauce provided was just wrong. I ended up opting for black vinegar instead.

Of course we had to get Xiao Long Bao. We went for the Pork and Crab version.

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Shanghailander 08These were average at best. The tuft at the top was too hard, the wrappers ok….no leakage here, if perhaps a bit too thick and gummy. I thought the filling had decent flavor; not too sweet, but you could definitely make out the crab. Not enough soup though…..hardly any soup.

Some of the other dishes….stuff we could order if we could handle left-overs like the Braised Pork looked really good. So I think we'll probably be back.

Overall, this was a nice start to our roadtrip, which would be taking us North, culminating with dinner in San Mateo at Michelin Starred Wakuriya. Man was I going to enjoy this roadtrip!

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Shanghailander Palace
1695 South Azusa Ave
Hacienda Heights, CA 91745

 

Liang’s Kitchen Revisited

**** Liang's Kitchen has closed

As the year started winding down, I've found myself thinking that I needed to circle back at some of those places that, well, really didn't impress me too much over the years, just to see.

This short and sweet post on Liang's is probably a good start since I hadn't been here in a while. Even though it was perfect soup weather, the place seems a bit slower than when I first visited.

I started with the Stewed Bean Curd Skin.

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Not the prettiest dish in the world, this really looked like offal, and for some reason the decorative bit of tomato and cilantro leaf really didn't do much for the presentation. The flavor, though mild, had just enough soy sauce flavor to push this up to decent. The yba was kind of hard in some of the thicker pieces, but this wasn't bad at all.

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Liangs Rev 04I went with the Beef Tendon Noodle Soup with handmade noodles. The broth was very slightly beefy, better than on previous visits, which really doesn't say much. But what this terrible was that there was a pervading taste bleach. I tried to explain to the Server who nodded, walked away and never returned. Then I tried to explain to the young lady who brought me my check, but no go…… I just cut my losses. I don't think they rinsed this off after sanitizing, or something of the sort.

Anyway, the tendon was plus/minus, some tough pieces, some pretty good. The pieces of beef were dry. I like the pickeld mustard greens and the noodles, though still too gummy and over-worked for my taste, were actually an improvement over previous visits.

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I left and went and had some ramen……..

Liang’s Kitchen
4681 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111

 

Comfort Food Roadtrip: Qing Dao Bread Food (Monterey Park) and Shen Yang Restaurant (San Gabriel)

We hadn't been down to the SGV since before our vacation in May. I've been pretty busy with work and had been craving some jiaozi (dumplings) for a while. Unfortunately, there isn't a place in San Diego that makes anything remotely close to a decent jiaozi, xiao long bao, or even dim sum. It's a shame. I was missing jiaozi so much that I actually went to Dump(ling) Inn, which was a big mistake. The Missus also wanted some hearty comfort food as well. So a couple of weeks ago, we headed on up to the SGV.

Qing Dao Bread Food:

Folks that read the blog long enough know that while I love a good jiaozi, I'm partial to the Shandong style; specifically QingDao style dumpling. The wrappers have to be rolled by hand, those edges have to be thin enough so that the texture of the wrapper will be even after folding. The texture of the wrapper has to have a bit of stretch, almost like a good al dente noodle. It should glisten when cooked. I know, blah, blah, blah……

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What it basically comes down to is that I enjoy the mutton jiaozi from Qing Dao Bread Food. It's the style I enjoy the best and also the city the Missus is from. The Missus always laughs after talking to the guy here….according to Her; his accent is "totally, one hundred-percent Qing Dao" which has its own unique accent ( "Qingdao Hua" (青岛话)).

Since we were folding two meals into one, this was going to be something light….all the Missus wanted was millet porridge, which is something like 50 cents here.

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I'm not a big fan of this, but for the Missus, it's comfort food.

Over the years, we've noticed that there are new specials offered; many of them examples of typical, traditional, Qing Dao style "soul food". On this visit; the Missus and I were amazed to see housemade Chinese Sausage. Not just any Chinese sausage, but stuff that really looked like the style made in Qing Dao. So we just had to try it.

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According to the sign, it's a "special, secret recipe". I can say this though, the flavors are pretty much spot on. While I'm not certain if the attributes of this sausage is unique to Qing Dao, or if it is more of a regional style, I will say that the strong flavor of wine in which the pork is marinated in, and the five spice was there. In fact, the five spice had the potent fragrance and flavor of the stuff from Qing Dao; which is what I use at home. Interesting tidbit; in QingDao, you don't go to the market to buy five spice. Rather, you go to the pharmacy to get it! In terms of texture; it wasn't quite as "air dried" as I'm used to, making it more moist. Also, the meat was cut in larger chunks. It was also a bit more salty as well. Still, this was a taste of home for the Missus and comfort food for me. It's obviously hand made and not cheap at $20 a pound ($4 each), but totally worth it.

Of course I had to have the Lamb Jiaozi:

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I won't go too much into detail, since I've written about this, several times before. I will say, that on this visit, while still good, it wasn't quite up there with what I'd had previously. That sheen was missing; the wrapper was a bit more brittle, lacking the slight pull I'm used too. It's still among my favorites though.

Qing Dao Bread Food is an interesting shop; they were quite busy on this morning, I think they've found their niche, the soul food of Qing Dao. Lots of guys coming in and buying mantou (which is the classic starch for the sausage) on this morning. I'm sure we'll be dropping by to pick up some sausage on future trips to the area.

Qing Dao Bread Food
301 North Garfield Ave.
Monterey Park, CA 91754

Shen Yang Restaurant (San Gabriel location):

**** Shen Yang Restaurant has closed

I'd been wanting to check out Shen Yang for a while. Since we were in the mood for the hearty type of Northern Chinese, we headed up to Shen Yang Restaurant.

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Shen Yang SG 02There's something very "old school" SGV about this place. The service is pretty much all business, the customers older Chinese….not a single word of English heard from anyone other than us the whole visit.

We started up with the Stewed Pork Bones (Jiang Gutou).

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There something so wonderful about picking through tasty pieces of meat, tendon, and other connective tissue around bones. The flavor of the bones have been passed to the meat; the stickiness of the tendon and other connective tissues, along with the varying texture of the "good bits" make this a great dish with a couple of beers. The flavor was straight ahead and I could probably pull this off at home, but this wasn't bad at all.

Since we're talking about Shenyang style food here, I had to try the Suan Cai. So we got the Shredded Pork with Pickled Sour Napa.

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Not the prettiest looking dish, but this was very good. The suan cai was prepped well; neither salty, nor too sour. The texture was spot on. The Missus was told that they make their own suan cai, which takes about a month. This was very warming and hearty. The portion size was typical of Northern Chinese, very generous. The pork was tender and the flavors for this type of dish well balanced. Think of it as a sauerkraut stir-fry if you will.

We'll be back to try the suan cai yang rou soon. The prices are reasonable, though I'm not certain that unless you've been exposed to this type of cuisine, you'll really enjoy it. For me; it's hearty, comfort food.

Shen Yang Restaurant
137 S San Gabriel Blvd
San Gabriel, CA 91776

 

Bountiful Birria at Fernandez Restaurant and Catering

Fernandez Catering isn't one of those places you drive past and impulsively stop and grab a bite. In fact, just finding the darn place was a bit of a challenge. Located on Flower Avenue, right off Hollister in Nestor, my coworker who recommended the place couldn't even recall the name, nor the street, which had me driving fruitlessly around the area. Finally, one day she googled and found me the address of the place.

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Located in what looks like an apartment building in a lot next to a smog shop, things were quite hectic on my visits there. There always seemed to be customers coming and going; many a bleary eyed Fernandez 02gentleman grabbing birria to go. Ah yes, the birria de res. It's the only item on the menu. You can get it in different shapes and forms; queso taco, consomme con carne, tacos, quesadillas….in the end it's all about the birria here and rightfully so. It's also the only protein on the menu.

The customers all seemed like regulars….they all knew the main man here; Jorge. And as much as these places are sometimes somewhat insular, here I was greeted with smiles, and left to multiple handshakes. There's something very warm and hospitable about my visits here, even though they were quite busy.

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I went full speed ahead on my first visit and got a full order of the birria de res…..which turned out to be quite a bit. In fact, I didn't eat again until well past dinner time. The birria is beefy and the broth rich with fat. The flavors also reflect said bovine heritage. I was told that I'd need to adjust the flavors so I wasn't surprised when this arrived lacking salt, which was easily added, along with the salsa, and lime to cut the richness and add some acid to the dish. No, this isn't health food; but it's truly soul food.

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Add the fact that the hand made tortillas seemed to have been dipped in the birria juice and oil before heating on the griddle, and this just seemed too much of a good thing.

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And yet, I couldn't get all that beefy goodness out of my mind. Add in how welcomed I was made to feel, plus advice from my coworker, "the order of birria is too much, go for the tacos……" I just had to return a couple of weeks later.

Fernandez 08It was less busy on this visit and I was greeted with smiles and handshakes, which made me really feel welcomed. This time I was better versed and more prepared. I went with three tacos and some consomme. Along with a bottle of water, this set me back $8.96.

I knew this was going to be good good when I was advised to "have some tendon on your tacos…" Are you kidding me!

The consomme was piping hot, and with the help of some salt and lime, it just hit the spot. This is my kind of breakfast.

The tacos followed soon after.

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Fernandez 10The beefy flavor and mild spices came through quite well in the taco format. And yes, there were some very nice pieces of gelatinous tendon, very tender and sticky.

When I was asked (twice) about which I preferred, I had to go with the tacos….though you need to get some consomme as well.

Overall, the spices are mild. You will need to add salt, but the flavor of the long cooked beef does shine through. And if you need some spice, you can always have a couple of bites of this:

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Fernandez 11I wish I lived a bit closer, I'd have breakfast here once a week if I did.

The hours are rather limited; Wednesday thru Sunday 8am to 2pm. I visited at 8am and it started getting really crowded as I left. There's a rather limited amount of parking in the lot, but more street parking.

In the end….for me at least, this place was worth the effort to find.

Fernandez Restaurant and Catering

2265 Flower Ave. San Diego, CA 92154

Hours: Wed – Sunday 8am – 2pm

 

Bun Mang Vit from Tu Thanh

Admittedly, I was kind of bummed out at the version of Bun Mang Vit I had at Pho Hiep. My hopes had been set high, but I left disappointed. I had received a comment on my latest post on Chinese Kitchen, aka Chi Tu Thanh Nha Hang, that the place had relocated. I knew the address given….it was on the 4800 block of University. I specifically recall a place called "Aruba" being in that spot…..the name brought to mind the Caribbean, but from what I could see, this was an Halal "Pizza", place….or was it? I also recall seeing a sign for Menudo in the window…….there's a part of me that thought this place was a front for some nefarious scheme….

Now, there's no mistaking the place for what it is.

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Tu Thanh 03Though I'm still not sure about Ali Baba Restaurant next to it.

Anyway, I was told that the place opens at 9am, so there I was at a few minutes after 9. I walked into the place, which is much smaller than it looks from the outside. Upon entering, I was greeted by an interesting looking "planter", a rather interesting use of what appears to be a non-functioning water cooler.

The young man and older woman were hard at work prepping and cleaning when I arrived.

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Tu Thanh 04The menu board was stripped to its bear bones….everything is written on the greaseboard…except for Bun Mang Vit! But that's on the window, so they must have it, right? The woman looked over at me and I half yelled "Bun Mang Vit" to her and she gave me a nod. Whew….

When the young man dropped off the bowl of dipping sauce, I knew this was going to be all right. It just smelled right….having a taste, the ginger infused sauce hit the right notes for me.

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Soon enough, my Bun Mang Vit ($7) arrived.

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Tu Thanh 07Though there were a lot less herbs than I recalled; just the portion size and the quality of the product put the last version I had at Pho Tay Do to shame.

The duck had a flavor, of well…..duck. After this past T-Day, I think I have a pretty good handle on what duck should taste like. It has a bit of chew, but the flavor is quite good….and after a dip in that sauce….well, that's what takes it to another level.

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The noodles were perfect…al dente, there was a good amount of young bamboo shoots, though the earthiness that the bamboo shoots will give the broth after steeping a bit was muted.Tu Thanh 09 The broth was a bit richer than I recalled, a bit more complex. I could clearly make out what seemed like a dash of sesame oil in this, something I hadn't noticed before. After that, it was time to stop analyzing. 

Needless to say….this hit the spot.

I had a good look at the kitchen as I stepped up to pay for my Bun Mang Vit…..it was very clean.

So I guess this is my new spot for Bun Mang Vit.

Tu Thanh 10I hope this place does well. There's really no parking except on the street. This is a real mom-and-pop operation…just the kind of place I love.

Tu Thanh
4804 University Ave. #A
San Diego, CA 92105
Hours:
Thurs – Tues 9am – 9pm
Wednesday    9am – 5pm 

 

Duckin’ Around

I hope everyone is enjoying a nice long weekend. On Thanksgiving morning, I took Da' Boyz down the street to Mission Bay. The recent rain had scrubbed the sky of all the usual haze.

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We ran into this flock of fowl during our walk….which drove Da Boyz crazy……

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I thought it was kind of….well ironic in a way. As with most years, the Missus had to work over Thanksgiving, so there was making stuff for that. But for us, this year's project was a wonderful duck from Mary's, not cheap, but a nice little project for me.

So the night before T-Day, there I was, breaking down a duck…….it's been a while since I've done this, but I didn't do too badly. I decided to go with a Chinese influence with most things, curing the legs for confit…….

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The carcass went into the stovetop smoker…….

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The breasts I cured overnight with five-spice, salt, white pepper, ginger juice, scallions……

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It ended up being a nice Thanksgiving meal for us……

With the smoked bones I made a soup.

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I used only the greens from the napa cabbage in this. The Missus wanted something simple and comforting, a reminder of Her youth. So with the white portion of the napa cabbage, I did a traditional Northern Chinese stir fry with Black Vinegar.

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The breasts turned out beautifully….the Missus said it was among the best She's ever had.

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Since we were trying to use the whole duck, Da' Boyz had the liver, kidney, and heart for dinner…..

Of course there was still something left over…..can you guess what that was?

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This duck was really fatty and there was a ton of skin left over. So yesterday I went ahead and rendered the fat. One of the great byproducts of rendering the fat was the fried duck skin…..man, these are good. The put the "crack" in cracklins'. 

The duck fat is smooth and almost buttery……..I'm almost tempted to spread these out on crackers.

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So the Missus had duck confit and an egg cooked in duck fat for brunch this morning.

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In keeping with the Chinese theme, She dipped the duck into Sichuan Pepper-SaltDuckin 12, but quit after a while telling me that the duck really didn't need anything else.

I guess She really enjoyed the duck since She asked me if we could do this for Christmas. What I'm really happy with is that we didn't waste a thing. The duck was very good quality, though not cheap at nearly $30. Still, if you consider all the meals 1 duck contributed to, it's a good investment for two.

So how did your Thanksgiving go? Was it a traditional one, or did you try something different this year?

 

Noodling around: Pho Hoa revisted

Pho Hoa Rev 01

It's been over five years since I posted on Pho Hoa…well this Pho Hoa, not that Pho Hoa, so I figure it was time for another post on what I consider the oldest, of the old school type pho shops in San Diego.

Not much has really changed except the prices have gone up a buck. The low ceilings, sticky tables, banquet chairs, rather dark atmosphere……a great place for a zombie apocalypse horror movie set. For some reason, on this day, it smelled kind of dank in the place. In shops like these you can usually smell the "Eau de Pho"….on this day the place just smelled off.

Still, the place was the same in most ways. Like the placement of the bean sprouts, herbs, and lime on the table along with the menu.

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I guess this kind of makes sense since what else are you going to order here? They do pho. Unlike the decor and atmosphere, everything on the plate is sparkling fresh, especially the Ngo Gai (culantro) and the amounts were generous, totally the opposite of most places these days.

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The bowl was a perfect illustration of the inconsistency of the place. A couple of months back I visited for a quick bowl. I was in a rush so didn't bother to take photos. That bowl had a decent beef flavor, decent fat, with perhaps a bit too much MSG. This bowl was fiercely defatted, though the color was dark and clear. The flavor had a mild beefiness to it but was over-shadowed by an unpleasant burnt bitterness. The noodles were overcooked and mushy as well. The protein was decent, especially the flank and brisket cuts, as well as the tripe. The tendon was a mixed bag, a couple of moderately tender pieces and a few pieces tough as a rubbah' slippa'. That has been Pho Hoa's M.O. over the years. Though the place is the model of consistency in other areas; the efficient service that borders on indifference and that old and worn atmosphere that seems to be beloved by the old timers who eat here.

Pho Hoa Restaurant
4717 El Cajon Blvd
San Diego, CA 92115

Saturday Morning in Vista: Lamb’s Head at Vamos a Texcoco and a visit to the Vista Farmer’s Market

*** I'm dedicating this first part of the post to FOY "Billy", who told me he was going to get his fix of lamb this weekend. I hope you did, Billy!

During the past week, the Missus told me She was in mood for a drive, but still staying within San Diego County. She also enjoyed the food I had brought back from Vamos a Texcoco. So we decided to head out to Vista for breakfast.

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We arrived about ten minutes or so after opening, before the large families arrived. The Missus started with what She deemed a nice cup of  Café de olla.

As on my previous visit, I ordered the Mixiote.

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This tends to be quite assertive in flavor and the last time the Missus mixed my leftovers with the order of barbacoa and really enjoyed it. This time though, she had something else in mind.

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She decided to go whole hog….errr…..lamb and order the lamb head. Which is a good choice for us. After being married so ling, there's a kind of interesting harmony in eating sometimes. The Missus loves the eyeballs, not my favorite thing. I like tongue….you but open the back and scrape all the meat out, not Missus' fave. I'm ok with brains, the Missus loves the texture, but doesn't care for the after taste, which is mildly minerally-fishy. Of course we both love the cheek meat….it don't get more flavor-packed than that stuff.

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They also serve the head "boneless"….hey, I know a few who would qualify for that…ummm, sorry to digress. But half the fun is doing the scrapping of every single wonderful flavor packed portion of the lamb's head.

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Since we had gotten there early and they weren't slammed, the folks serving us were so friendly and nice. We had a rather rich breakfast that kept us the whole day.

Vamos a Texcoco
950 E Vista Way
Vista, CA 92084
Hours:
Open Daily 9am – 9pm

Now the round trip to Vista and back is over 60 miles for us, so I mentioned to the Missus that Vista had a Saturday Farmer's Market. It was fairly close to "Vamos" so we decided to check it out. We really enjoyed ourselves….as a plus, walking around a bit helped digestion as well. So here's a few photos from earlier today.

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The Missus bought a 7 pound bag of Fuyu Persimmons ($10) and we got some natural dog treats for Da' Boyz. We loved the laid-back atmosphere. We'll be back.

Here's an interesting fact; established in 1981, the Vista Farmer's Market is the longest running farmer's market in San Diego County.

Vista Farmer's Market
325 S Melrose Dr
Vista, CA 92081
Hours
Saturday 8am – 1pm

 

Coimbra: Pastel de Santa Clara at Pastelaria Briosa and visits to a couple of churches

You could say Coimbra is just a college town I guess. Well, a town with a history that goes back to the Fifth century and  where the "college", well more properly the University, is over 700 years old, built on the hill that overlooks the city, and whose main square is surrounded by buildings that were once the Royal Palace….oh yes, Coimbra was also the capital of the County of Portugal from the mid-twelfth century, until the mid-thirteenth century.

The University of Coimbra, up steep University Hill proudly overlooks the "Baixa" (Low Town) and Modego River.

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You can't miss it. Getting here was kind of interesting, not hard, but interesting. We caught the train from Evora to Lisbon, changing trains at Oriente Station. We got off at "Station B" which is somewhere north of the city. You then transfer to another train which takes you on the short trip to "Station A" which is right on the waterfront. Our hotel was basically right across the street, the Hotel Oslo, which was kind of old, with small rooms, but, in spite of the beds as hard as a marble slab, was good enough for a night or two. Plus, I could open the window and see University Hill above. There was street noise and all that, but this was about as centrally located as you'd get.

Crossing the street, a single lane in both directions, a maze of alleyways and narrow streets winds inward, away from the Mondego River. Here lies Praça do Comércio.

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A nice bright open area with cafes and shops. Because of the shape of the square, people claim that this once a Roman Chariot Racetrack. I also read that in the Middle Ages, bullfights were held in this wide open area.

At one end of the square is the Church of São Tiago a small but important church. The architecture is in the Romanesque style. The arches of the side doors are decorated with a scallop shell motif, a homage to the patron of this church Saint James (Tiago is James in Portuguese) whose emblem was the scallop shell.

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The church was ordained in 1206. Though it is believed to have been the site of a temple from the 10th century. the interior of the church itself is fairly tiny, much of it paneled in wood.

Up the stairs to the side and you end up in the heart of Coimbra's shopping street the busy and bustling streets of Rua Ferreira Borges and Rua Visconde da Luz.

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 Many of the buildings date back to the 1900's and are in the Art Nouveau style; curved lines and the forms and ornamentation in tune with "nature". The area is very lively.

Along the way we saw another church down the stairs near the other end of Praça do Comércio. This was the Church of St. Bartholomew. The rather simple looking Baroque style church housed a bright white interior with an altarpiece gilded in gold and marble.

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We walked back up, then further down Rua Ferreira Borges toward the Santa Clara Bridge. The Missus had read about Pastelaria Briosa online.

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 We needed a break and it seemed like a great time to us the "Lisbon Rule" - when you need a break, get a coffee and a pastry. In Coimbra, the pastry of choice is the Pastel de Santa Maria.

So I had a seat and the Missus walked up to the counter to order for us.

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And while I really didn't care much for this sweet, almond and marmalade pastry, I also didn't care for the dough….it was nice to have seat and a nice cup of espresso.

The espresso must have done wonders, since I agreed with the Missus, and decided to forgo lunch. We'd 06082013 735

 instead aim for another Portugal (we were already calling it Pork-u-gal) porkfest.

So, with some reluctance, I pulled myself up to my feet and we headed up the winding and sometimes rather steep alleyways up to the "Old Town". I was just amazed at the fact folks walked up and down these steep hills, sometimes several times a day. We passed a young Chinese girl walking down the hill. I could see the rather amused look on her face as I huffed and puffed past her.

Would I make it without having a coronary? Well stay tuned!

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