Sorta Coq Au Vin, or Half Coq’d Au Vin

Like I mentioned in my "White Chili" post, I've been feeding the Missus and Her co-workers when She has to work on weekends. But there's just so much I can make before I hit the wall. I was wracking my grey matter trying to determine what to make….but while staring at some chicken legs, going for 49 cents a pound, I thought why not doa version of Coq Au Vin, the French chicken fricassee cooked in wine? When I told the Missus, She appeared skeptical, "isn't that French?"

Just keeping things fun, I decided to make this pretty much on the cheap. Not that Coq Au Vin is a fancy-schmansy dish mind you. After all, Coq Au Vin was originally a recipe that marked, ummm, the permanent retirement of a rooster. The chicken was just under 2 bucks, the pearl onions, just under 2 bucks…. the wine? You guessed it, 2 Buck Chuck….good ol'  Charles Shaw. I thought of calling it "Chuck Au Vin", but that would've been a bit repetitive, right? 

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I'd made Coq Au Vin before, but looked for additional inspiration from various cookbooks I had lying around. And boy did the recipes differ! Anthony Bourdain's recipe in the Les Halles Cookbook did away with the flour dredge, and marinated the chicken in red wine overnight. Julia Child's classic recipe uses a brandy flambe, Mark Bittman in How To Cook Everything: Simple Recipes for Great Food, uses porcini mushrooms for flavoring, and so on. Some other differences, many recipes use tomato, I didn't have any at home, so cross that out. Also, most recipes use the "blanching technique" for the bacon or salt pork(guess which I used) to remove excess salt and the smoky flavor. I thought my dish would need all the help it could get, so I bypassed it.

After reducing the wine and sauce, I added a little twist of my own. I added a tablespoon of Demi Glace along with some butter to fortify the sauce. I thought it turned out well, considering. I made buttered egg noodles just to cover my bases. It was also pretty quick, clocking in at a total of 40 minutes prep, one-and-half hours simmer.

Sorta Coq Au Vin

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3-4 lbs Chicken parts rinsed and driedCoqAuVin02
1/2 lb small white mushrooms
1/2 lb Pearl Onions
4 cloves garlic chopped
2 carrots roughly chopped
1 medium onion roughly chopped
2 ribs celery roughly chopped
1/4 lb Bacon sliced crosswise (lardon)
1 Bottle red wine
1-2 Cups chicken stock (optional)
2 Tb Butter
1 Tb Veal Demi Glace (optional)
2 Bays Leaves
3 sprigs ThymeCoqAuVin03
1/2 Cup flour
Salt and Pepper
1-2 Tb Olive Oil

– Bring a pot of water to a boil. Chop root ends off of pearl onions. Place into boiling water for 1 minute. Allow onions to cool. You'll be able to pop those pearl onions out of their skin.
– Place chicken parts in a gallon ziploc bag. Add flour and shake to coat.Remove chicken from bag to a plate, shaking off excess flour.
– Brown bacon in a Dutch Oven or similar pot. When bacon CoqAuVin04 is browned, remove the bacon with a slotted spoon.
– In the same pot, add pearl onions,add salt and pepper, and saute until slightly browned. Remove onions.
– Add olive oil if necessary, and brown chicken, working in batches. Remove the chicken when browned.
– Add 1 tablespoon of butter, and saute the mushrooms. Remove the mushrooms and set aside.
– Pour off excess fat, and add garlic, celery, onions, and carrots, and saute until vegetables are soft. Deglaze with 1 cup of the red wine, making sure to scrape up all those nice brown bits.
– Add the rest of the red wine, bay leaf, and thyme, and bring to a simmer.
– Add chicken back to pot and simmer; turning every 10-15 minutes until the chicken is done.
– When the chicken is cooked, remove from the pot, and strain cooking liquid.
– Pour strained liquid back into the pot and taste. Add chicken stock, salt and pepper if necessary.
– Reduce liquid by half. You may want to thicken with a classic Beurre Manie (a paste made with 1 tb each butter and flour made into a paste), or be like me and just add butter. I also added the Demi Glace because I had some.
– When sauce is thickened, add pearl onions and mushrooms back (and bacon if desired), and heat.

There you go Half Coq'd Au Vin

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Serve with egg noodles.

Midweek Meanderings

I'm feeling a bit under the weather, so just a short post for today.

Bye-bye Lot 81, hello Frankie the Bull's BBQ:

Seen while driving down Morena Boulevard:

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This was the former location of Lot 81. I'm sure that certain folks will be excited about the portion of the sign that says "Top Chef".

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I'm guessing this'll be Top Chef's Frank Terzoli's restaurant. Since I've never watched the show, you all can tell me more….

1130 Buenos Ave (right off Morena)
San Diego, CA 92110

Awash Market and Liquor:

On the 2800 block of El Cajon Boulevard.

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It was the "Ethiopian Restaurant" portion of the sign that caught my eye. I've been to Awash further up the street a few times.

How you know a fad is nearly dead:

When a shop opens in our neighborhood. This portion of Clairemont Drive, and this strip mall in particular (anchored by Hometown Buffet) is not known for cutting eating to say the least. So when I saw this sign……

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I now know that there must be at least 1 fro-yo shop in every neighborhood in San Diego.

Hmmmm…..

Fusion Fondue and sushi?????

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At the corner of Friars Road and Via Las Cumbres in Mission Valley. I dunno……

And speaking of seafood….

Or perhaps more appropriately Hwe (Hoe), there's a few new places as well. By coincidence, two of them are located in the same strip mall located at 4698 Convoy Street.

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I hope you're having a great week. We'll be back with a restaurant post tomorrow.

Yum Cha Cafe

**** Yum Cha Cafe has closed

*** More on Yum Cha Cafe's Roast Duck and Chinese BBQ here and here.

As promised in this post, I've  gotten my act together and put together my jumbo-sized Yum Cha Cafe Post. Since Yum Cha Cafe opened, we've been back a few times, during different times of the day. 

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The set-up is fast, and the ladies behind the counter smile and quickly wave you up to the counters.

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There's the Chinese BBQ station, with the requisite items hanging.

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The fried Dim Sum station, with the various offerings radiating the glow of the heat lamps.

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And of course, the steamed items.

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And here is where we start running into some of the little quirks about this location of Dim Sum Cafe. First it is a free-for-all, unlike the San Gabriel location where you pull numbers.(*** An update for 02/09/09 – guess what I saw today on my visit? They now have a number dispenser. But of course everyone was just ingoring the thing and walking straight up to the counter to order!) So during prime time, get those shin guards and flak jackets on. As FOY "PaulL" noted in an email to me, "Not to be rude but what a fire drill." It is not a real big problem during slow times, but man, some of those older ladies "take no prisoners". Still, the women behind the counters (and there is an army of 'em) are very nice and helpful, which leads us to point two; depending on who you get, you may have some problems if you speak neither Cantonese or Vietnamese. So for many of us, it is a point to get what you want, which is not a big deal. OK, you got your steamed dumplings, and the fried stuff looks mighty good, so let's get some. This is point three, fried is fried, and steamed is steamed, and never the twain shall meet. In other words, this is another station, with another crew, and there may, or may not be a "hand-off". Same with the Chinese BBQ. Say you survive, you've got everything you wanted all piled on one of those bright orange trays. Point four, the cashier is a separate station! During certain times, there may be a bit of chaotic bottleneck of sorts. Even though there are three registers, only one may be open. Once, when only one register was open, a huge mass of humanity, was gathered in front of the harried, but still cheerful cashier, who, with orange trays lined from one end of the counter to the other, on both sides, started just holding trays up for folks to identify, step up, and pay! Sometime during the chaos, someone else purchased my chicken feet, et al. Another time, my Hainan Chicken Rice left the building without me, I'm assuming incognito, or perhaps under cover of darkness…… Still, more often than naught, you'll leave the building, or sit at one of the tables, which have already hit a level of "San Gabriel stickiness" in just a little over a week (they must bottle the stuff now), and munch away.

You may be asking yourself, if this is worth all the aggravation. Depending on your timing, and/or mind set, it can be kinda fun….in the "wow, that was somewhat invigorating, so long I don't have to it everyday" kind of way. One other key point, once you've experienced and understand the (fire) drill, you can get out of the place in a matter of minutes. Oh, and did I mentioned the prices? Dim Sum is broken into 2 price categories, category 'A' goes for $1.39, 'B' for $1.79. Put into those terms…..

OK, enough with all the details, let's have some Dim Sum. This version of Chaozou dumpling ($1.79), was bleh. Lousy wrappers, and tough pork. Though I can say, I've had worse at a few Dim Sum places in San Diego.

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The "Pan Fried" Chicken Dumplings ($1.79), however…..

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YumCha109  Were a bit of a surprise. These looked like really bad "buffet style" dumplings, and indeed the wrapper was a bit hard, but the filling was very tasty.

Chicken and Sticky Rice wrapped in Lotus Leaf ($1.79). Man this was quite a bit of food. Decent lotus leaf flavor, a bit on the dry side, but passable. One good thing about Yum Cha Cafe is that almost everything is quite hot when you get it.

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This monstrosity is called the House Special Bun ($1.39).

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It is pretty large, and is filled with several large pieces of Lap Cheong (Chinese sausage), and a slice of boiled egg. The Missus thought the bun was much too sweet, and the bottom of the steamed bun was a bit soggy.

The Missus likes the Chicken Feet ($1.39), I think it's Her favorite item from Yum Cha Cafe. On this occasion they were piping hot, plump, moist, with a decent flavor.

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The Shrimp Siu Mai ($1.39), was pretty good on this occasion. Nice shrimp flavor, still hot, decent texture.

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But on another occasion, the filling had a strong cornstarch flavor to it.

Steamed shrimp dumplings ($1.79). These were very good. I got them early on a Sunday morning. They were hot, and full of shrimp flavor.

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I also bought some Shrimp and Chive steamed dumplings ($1.79).

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And though I thought the wrapper to be a bit too chewy, the flavor was right on the button. As you can see by the photo to the right, there was a good amount of shrimp in these.

The Stuffed Tofu($1.79) was pretty blah.

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The Steam Chicken Bun ($1.39).

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Had but a smear of filling, which was on the bland side, and the bottom of the steamed bun was a soggy mess.

The Missus managed to snag some Cheong Fun with Dried Shrimp ($1.79). And it was surprisingly good.

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As you can tell, it was missing the sauce. But here's another surprise, it's not soy sauce in those bottles, it's the sauce for the Cheong Fun! Nice surprise here…..

I had been hesitant to try any of the deep fried stuff….heat lamps, and sitting around does not make for great stuff. But I had been itching to try the "Golden Seaweed Roll" ($1.79).

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And texture wise it was just as I thought, pretty limp and soggy. I did however, really like the shrimp filling, which was well flavored. If these come out of the fryer when you visit, it may be worth a try.

On another visit, I tried the Char Siu Bao ($1.39). And proving that timing is everything, this was perfectly steamed, no sogginess. Perhaps a bit short on the filling, and yes, the bun is maybe a tad too sweet. Still not bad.

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I also tried the Pork Siu Mai ($1.39), which had just come out, and it was good. The Har Gow($1.39) suffered from wrappers that were too thick and chewy. Sorry, no photos, by this time my trigger finger was pretty fatigued.

Still have doubts about trying this place out? How about this. You can purchase all of the dim sum mentioned above, including the Siu Mai and Har Gow, for $24.05 without tax! That's fifteen servings of dim sum. I could make you really depressed and say it would cost you just $18.05 in San Gabriel, but why go there.

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I realize this post is approaching the herniation point, but just a few more things.

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There's a door to Thuan Phat Market conveniently located to one side of the restaurant. Nice, except that later in the afternoon, some of the more unpleasant fragrances makes its way into Yum Cha Cafe. It doesn't bother me much, but I thought I'd mention that. Also, I've found that the various dishes are much better in the mornings most of the time.

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On one of my visits, I noticed a Caucasian Woman standing in the corner looking a bit distressed. She was a bit overwhelmed by the craziness (it was very busy that morning). Feeling bad for her, I stopped by and told her, to just "go for it, and get in there. You might have some fun." And so might you….

Yum Cha Cafe
6933 Linda Vista Road
San Diego, CA 92111

Open Daily: 8am-8pm

View Larger Map

Luang Prabang: Pak Ou Caves, a LaoLao break, and Tat Sae

*** No food in this one…. just drink. If you're interested in the Pak Ou caves, and more waterfalls, read on……

Every guidebook on Luang Prabang mentions, and recommends a visit to the Pak Ou Caves. Located about 25 kilometers from Luang Prabang, the caves are said to have been originally used for worship of the river spirit. When Buddhism was accepted, the use of the caves changed. And over time, the Pak Ou Grottoes have become a repository of approximately 4,000 or so Buddhas. Wow, caves, grottoes, the Mekong…… I'm sold.

The Missus and I, desiring more freedom, decided that instead of taking the usual boat trip up and down the Mekong, we'd hire our own Jumbo, and take the overland route. The relatively new highway made the going pretty quick.

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Until we turned off the main road and headed to Ban Pak Ou, the village across the Mekong from the caves. This last 10 kilometers took almost an hour.

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PakOu03  It had rained pretty darn hard that morning (subject of a future post), and our trip turned into a mire-fest. Along with the spine smashing dips in the road, our faithful driver "Fong" dealt with some pretty nasty hydoplaning, and there were a few times where I thought we were going to get stuck in the mud. But Fong got us to our destination, and the Missus and I kinda enjoyed the ride. At least I enjoyed it after I managed to straighten out my spine.

In Ban Pak Ou, we hired a boat, which took us across the Mekong. This is the route that the pilgrims take to the caves during Lao New Year. I can only imagine what an ordeal this must've been before the highway. When the entire trip was taken on the dirt road.

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The view of the caves while crossing the Mekong is breathtaking.

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PakOu08 There are two caves at Pak Ou. The lower cave Tham Ting, which is about 50 feet or so above the Mekong, and the large, and pitch dark Tham Phum, a stairway climb up the cliff.

What did I think? Well, if you are Buddhist, or love Buddhas, you'll love the Pak Ou Caves, there are figures everywhere.

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As for me, I found the view out of Tham Ting to be the most photogenic, and enjoyable.

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We had a little surprise on the boat ride back across the Mekong.

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Looks like we've got a boat "pilot in training". For some reason, the Missus and I were touched seeing the family trade being passed from Father to Son. Though the son may need a bit more training, as he overshot the bamboo landing and Dad, putting his slipper over his hands had to paddle us back to the landing. Fong, the Missus, and I couldn't help but crack up!

After landing, I made sure to shake the young man's hand, and told him "kopchai lai-lai" (thank you very much), which he found quite humorous.

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The road had dried up quite a bit on our return trip. And before we hit the little village of Ban Xang Hai, something happened which I think we'll always remember.

As Fong was driving up the dirt road, we noticed a bike approaching going in the opposite direction. Peddling was an older man with a young girls packed on the back. As the bike passed us, Fong picked up on something and said, "aahh, look, look!" At which time the man on the bike whistled, and an elephant came running out of the brush! An honest to goodness elephant. The Missus and I let out yelps of startled joy, and I totally forgot to take a photo. The Missus finally collected Her wits and managed this shot.

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Man that elephant was hauling, I'm guessing they were heading home for lunch? They don't call Luang Prabang the "Kingdom of a Million Elephants" for nothin'. This was one of those, "remember the time…….." moments for us.

Soon enough it was time for the "tourist" break.

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LaoLaoSign01  All over the well touristed areas of Luang Prabang you'll see signs like the one to the right. And it is true, a bottle of Lao Lao (Lao whiskey – moonshine, if you will) is cheaper than bottled water. If I recall, a bottle of water ran you 10,000 Kip, Lao-Lao 8,000 Kip.

And the village of Ban Xang Hai is well known for it's Lao-Lao. Actually, the name of the village of under 100 people is "Jar-maker Village", but I guess now they are more in the business of filling those jars instead of making them.

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Lao-Lao is big business here, and everything has been set-up for purchase by thirsty tourists.

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Bangxhanghai04  And yet, I was charmed by the nice folks, and loved the "instructional sign" on how Lao-Lao is created. You can't help but smile when you read it.

Plus, when we returned back home, and watched a rerun of No Reservations, this is where that snarky, cranky, loveable lush, Tony Bourdain and his crew had Lao-Lao. If it's good enough for Bourdain……

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Bangxhanghai06  Being used to their share of  firewater seeking Westerners, some of the Ladies spoke passable mono-syballic English, and amanged to demonstrate how Lao-Lao is made.

As the sign says, in goes sticky rice and water, and out comes Lao-Lao. I received a taste of the stuff as it came out of the bamboo tube, nice and hot. It tasted almost like hot sake. Since it is made from rice, I guess that makes perfect sense. And of course, I had to buy a bottle, of which I don't remember the price, probably since I finished the bottle that very evening.

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And it tasted nothing like sake….I remember that much.

We returned to Luang Prabang, and Fong drove thru the city and about 15 kilometers South to the village of Ban Aen. Catching a boat at Ban Aen we headed upriver for about 5 minutes to Tat Sae, another popular waterfall.

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The scenery was wonderful, but I remember being distracted by the fact that the young man steering the boat had to constantly bail water out of the craft as we headed to the falls.

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What really caught the Missus's attention when we arrived were the Elephants.

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We bought two stalks of bananas which the elephants went through in less than five minutes.

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When you look an elephant in the eye, you can't help but realize that there's some real intelligence there.

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The whole experience was ruined when the Missus noticed that the elephants were heavily chained, and we watched one getting whacked with a baseball bat sized piece of wood……

The falls at Tat Sae are not very high, but are beautiful in their own right. There are several levels of limestone falls, which pass around and through the trees and the forest.

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There are several large pool areas were folks can swim, and the water is clean, if a bit milky looking from the limestone.

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You can walk over, and around the falls on a system of bridges, some of which are a bit precarious, but kinda makes you feel like you're a kid again….

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We had done a bit, and the day wasn't over, but we needed to head back to Luang Prabang.

Our driver for the trip was Fong. He had driven the Missus around on the previous day while I had been taking my cooking class. And I think he felt pretty comfortable with us. On the trip up to the Pak Ou Caves he asked if it was all right to pick up his family, who needed to go to the rice fields for harvesting. He really didn't need to ask. And so we met Fong's wife, daughter, son, brother (who's a University student), and Mother, all packed into the back of the Jumbo, it's a great way to get to know folks. And of course there was the inevitable question; "ok, you are American. But what are you really?" If we're ever back in Luang Prabang, we'll make sure to find Fong….

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As always, half the fun is getting there (and back)……….

White Chili

Did you know I did requests? he-he-he…. On occasion the Missus has to work on weekends. Recently, it has been my habit to cook up a decent batch of food, for the Missus to take to work with Her. I'm kinda flattered that it has gone over rather well. But I guess that there's just so much Chili-Spaghetti, Soy Sauce Chicken, and deconstructed Loco Mocos that I can serve. Recently, one on the Missus's co-workers, and one of my favorite persons in the world "MP", asked the Missus if I could make "White Chili". The Missus, not knowing what White Chili was said, "no problem". The thing is, I didn't even know, nor had I ever heard of White Chili. In fact, I still don't know what White Chili is. So of course I scoured the Internet…. and really didn't find out much, other than it is a "chili" made with white beans and chicken. In fact, I still don't know what the origin of this "chili" (is it really a chili???) is. Ya' know, I admire folks who can whip out dishes they've never tasted, nor heard of, or use ingredients they really have never worked with. I'm not that person…….

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I can truly say, I've never had a chance to even consider using Navy Beans….or even Cannelli Beans (white kidneys). I looked over a bunch of recipes, and to my surprise, we had most of the ingredients here at home. This turned out to be a good recipe for left-over rotisserie chicken, it seems that we often have some chicken left over, you know the parts with less flavor (i.e. breast). This usually ends up integrated into several dinners for Sammy and Frankie, but this time, I had use for it (sorry Boyz!).

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WhiteChili02 I worked within what I knew about MP, not good with spicy, nothing to salty, etc……

On the way home from work, I picked up a can of Cannelli Beans, 2 cans of Navy Beans (on sale), and a can of diced green chilies.

When putting the recipe together, the first thing I noticed was how "flat" the dish was. Even with the green chilies, it was fairly bland. I added some cherry peppers, using only the green ones (to fit in the color scheme). When reading the recipes, it seemed like the chili was not hearty enough for my taste. Until I read one that used cannelli beans pureed with chicken broth as a thickening agent. In essence, a typical White Bean Puree was used to give the dish body. The dish also sorely needed some acid, which is why I ended up adding Pinot Grigio (nice and crisp), and some vinegar seemed to complete the equation. A dollop of sour cream also added to the dish, lime added more acid, and a palate cleansing citrus, and I thought that corn tortillas just seemed right…… funny how the mind works.

Enough with the verbage, I'm sure you want me to get on with the recipe. If you love heat, you can add jalapenos, or be like me when I had my one bowl, I added several dashes of hot sauce.

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White Chili

3 Cups Rotisserie Chicken, shreddedWhiteChili05
2 15oz cans of Navy Beans, drained
1 15oz can of Cannelli Beans, drained
1 onion minced
3 cloves garlic minced
2 Tb Olive Oil
4 Cups Chicken stock/broth
1 4oz can diced green chilies
4-5 Green Cherry Peppers, diced
1/4 cup Pinot Grigio, or similar white wine
1 Tb white vinegar
2 tsp cumin seeds (remember to crush)
2 tsp oregano
Salt and Pepper to taste

Garnishes/Sides
1-2 Cups grated Monterey Jack Cheese
Sliced scallions
Cilantro leaves
Sour Cream
Lime
Tortillas
Hot Sauce

– In a food processor, combine Cannelli Beans and 3/4 cup chicken broth and process until smooth. Put aside.
– Heat a dutch oven or similar pot on medium heat. Add olive oil, onions, and garlic, and saute until fragrant and translucent.
– Add the remainder of the chicken broth, oregano, cumin, green chilies, and cherry peppers (or whatever chilies you want – but try to keep the color scheme in mind).
– Bring back to a simmer, and add wine and vinegar.
– Add bean puree to thicken.
– Bring to a simmer, taste and adjust seasoning.WhiteChili07
– Simmer for 1-2 hours (or leave overnight, it'll taste even better), and serve with the sides and garnishes of your choice.

I'm guessing it'll taste even better with home made chicken stock. And geeez some nice cheese biscuits!

So maybe someone can tell me…… what is "real" White Chili supposed to be?

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Next request……. quick Coq Au Vin…….

Luang Prabang: Tamarind Cooking School Part 2

After a interesting visit to Phousy Market, we arrived at a riverside home for our cooking class. The class would take place outdoors, and items were already in place for our class.

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Looking over the ingredients got me excited. I realized that most of the folks taking the class were looking to kill some time, but I just wanted to get going.

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What made this really fun was the total "hands-on" approach. We were give ingredients, and verbal instructions, and cooked by "feel", which was effective on many levels(we were given recipes after the class). You may not have a clue about the cuisine, but you instinctively build dishes to your taste, which is why the same dish differs so much from place to place.

Another big change for me was…..everything was cooked on charcoal braziers.

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No thermometers, no dials, just use of your senses, something that Joy subtly emphasized. "It is ok, so long it tastes good to you…."

And since everything starts with sticky rice…..

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Some of the key points, soak at least 3-4 hours, but overnight is the best. Lightly massage the rice before draining. After placing rice in the bamboo steamer, pour water over rice and the edges of the steamer. After 20-30 minutes, remove the steamer from the pot of boiling water, and "flip" over. The rice turned out perfect, but I'm still not comfortable with making it.

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What I found interesting was that unlike most recipes I've read for making this, we never covered the rice!

The next item on the agenda was a Jeow, the wonderful Lao "dip". We had choices of Jeow Mak Keua (Eggplant Dip), or the Jeow Mak Len (Tomato Dip). This is where I learned the concept of a "Lao pinch", which is twice as much as what I think of as a "pinch". It is key to roast the peppers and the eggplant or tomato. And since returning I've made this several times. It is quite easy.

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The concept of "Western spicy" (1-4 peppers) versus "Lao spicy" (10-12 chilies) was humorous.

If making the Jeow introduced me to the use of the mortar and pestle in Lao cooking, making the Mok Pa, drove it home.

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The mortar funnels the scents of the items being bruised, mixed, and crushed right up to your nose. You really get in touch with what you're making.

I've already posted a modified recipe, which you can find here. Of course, being all thumbs, it was easy to iidentify my "packet".

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Next up, Joy demonstrated how to trim Sa-Khan.

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Yes indeed, we were going to make Or Lam (Lao stew). When I asked about substitutes for the bark of genus Piper Ribesioides, I was first told black peppercorns, then Joy, turned to me and said, "for you, I know you can get Sichuan Peppercorns, so use that, but do not toast." Ah yes, the Lao affinity for the numbing bitterness……

Everything was placed into a pot, along with lemongrass, pea eggplants, cloud ear fungus, etc. The thickening agent was a ball of day old sticky rice, roasted briefly over charcoal, than pounded with a pestle.

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Water added, stew on the charcoal, Joy, being much the slave driver said, "it's time for a break." So while things were being set-up for the next portion of our class, we relaxed and partook in a Laolao tasting. Joy also brought out the small bamboo tube he had left Phousy Market with, and asked, "anyone want to try this?" Opening the tube, out poured a bunch of wiggly, squiggly, silk worms. Being with an adventurous bunch, there an immediate "yes" was the response. The silkworms were taken to the "real kitchen", and soon a small plate of fried silkworms dusted with salt arrived.

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If you like fried, you'll like these. Crisp and light, it's sort of like shoestring potatoes… I don't know why restaurants here in the States don't serve this, they are very innocuous.

A few minutes later, revived by some good Laolao (Lao home-made whiskey) and fried silkworms, Joy grabbed a stalk of lemongrass, and started cutting slits into it.

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Finely chopped chicken was distributed, and Joy instructed us as to the ingredients for Ua Si Khai, Stuffed Lemongrass. Meat, be it chicken, pork, or beef, is chopped and placed into a mortar along with coriander, scallions, garlic, kaffir lime leaf, and salt, and pounded into a thick and rough paste. It is subsequently stuffed into the lemongrass. We each made two stuffed lemongrass, the first was grilled over charcoal.

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The second was put aside, and later coated with egg and deep-fried.

As the stuffed lemongrass was being grilled, our Or Lam was ready. The fragrance was a heady mix of anise-woodsy-earthy smells. The anise accents via the use of "Lao basil" (holy basil). We each had a small bowl of Or Lam, and had a shot at the Sa-Kahn.

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I bit into the bark, and got an instant shot of the numbing-hot ("Ma"), bitter flavor of the Sa-Khan. Sort of like Sichuan Peppercorn without the floral touches, adding in a puckering bitterness.

The Or Lam itself, was the best I had tasted to date.

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As we finished off the Or Lam, our grilled stuffed lemongrass was ready.

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The unanimous response as we ate these were; "did we actually make this?" It was wonderful!

Soon enough it was time to get back cooking. It was time to make "Koy", a mixed salad of sorts. Joy mentioned the difference between Koy and Laap, but I must apologize, as I don't recall it. It just gives me reason to return no? Again, we split fish, or water buffalo….guess what I chose?

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At this point, Joy told us, "I have something for you. This is an important ingredient in Water Buffalo Koy in Luang Prabang."

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"It is optional, but we like Water Buffalo bile in our Koy." I've had Pinapaitan, a very popular Ilocano dish, where beef bile is front and center before, so it was no big deal for me, but there were no other takers. I thought that the tablespoon of bile I added to my Koy just added to the flavor. BTW, Sab E Lee will sometimes have beef bile available for their Koi Soi which adds a dimension to the dish.

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At this point, we proceeded to deep fry our stuffed lemongrass dipped in egg wash. After the stuffed lemongrass was ready, we moved off to a table to eat (yet again!), the rest of our dishes.

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TamarindCookS223 I hope you excuse the pictures, the challenges of taking while in the midst of a cooking class is quite hard.

While consuming the fruits of our labor, again the initial response was, "I can't believe I made this…."

So let me ask you, would you like me to do a post on anything you've seen. I'm willing to, or have already made some of the dishes, and would gladly do a post on anything except sticky rice, which I feel needs a bunch of practice, and Or Lam (because I don't think I can find Sa-Kahn).

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Vacation2008ThaiLaos03 412 For those of us not born, married, or exposed to the cuisine,  Tamarind's Cooking Classes can make us believers….. 

Luang Prabang: Tamarind Cooking School Part 1 – Trip to Phousy Market

In previous Luang Prabang post, I mentioned two personal rules that I broke during our stay in Luang Prabang. The first was buying t-shirts, the second was taking a cooking class. I had never really been interested in taking a cooking class, but because we were staying in Luang Prabang for 6 days, why not? Plus, I really didn't know very much about Lao, or Luang Prabang cuisine. I had read up a bit about Tamarind Restaurant, and thought why not? The Missus made other "shopping" plans for the day, and I made reservations for the cooking class.

Tamarind was located right around the corner from our hotel, right across from Wat Nong Sikhounmuong.

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The class is pretty much an all-day affair, and cost $25 US. The fearless leader of our group of Aussies, Brits, French, and yours truly, the token Asian-American was Joy Ngeuamboupha, who, along with Caroline Gaylard, own Tamarind. Joy and his sisters work the kitchen of Tamarind.

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The first part of the class was a market tour of Phousy Market, which is the largest market in Luang Prabang, and supplies many of the homes and restaurants in Luang Prabang. Phousy Market (also spelled Phosy Market) is vastly different in scale than the morning Fresh Market, the products sold are much more mainstream (relatively), and there are some pretty large vendors in the market.

We all jumped on a soon to be overloaded tuk-tuk, and headed off to market.

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I'll keep the text down to descriptions, a few things I learned about Lao food and eating habits, and a few anecdotes from here on.

As with all of these type of markets, everything is separated.

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Which included the all important Water Buffalo Skin.

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Available in all shapes and sizes, I was most familiar with the slices used for Jeow Bong, the wonderful Chili Dip.

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Of course there were dried chilies:

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And Padek in many stages of, ummm, fermentation.

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Joy noted: "As you can see, no flies. When it is good, the flies won't touch it!" I thought perhaps the inverse was true……

One large portion was devoted to the varied produce available in Luang Prabang.

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Here's Joy with a piece of Sa-Khan (piper ribesioides), which is used in the making of Or Lam, the various Lao stews.

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And of course, there were "Hops", the stuff we saw eveyone munching on. I also learned that the flowers are edible as well.

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And of course chilies, like these bright little ones:

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At this stop Joy asked if anyone wanted to try one of these chilies. Seeing there were no takers, I decided to volunteer. Now Mom always told me, "the smaller the chili, the hotter it is." And man were these tiny chilies hot! Even though I didn't let the chili touch my lip, I felt an almost scalding heat in my mouth. I wanted to let out a "whooooaaa", but could only let out a "gakkkk." At which point I noticed that all the women vendors had stopped, and were watching me. They just started cracking up, and laughing. Joy told me, "the ladies say, only the tourists are crazy enough to eat these chilies by themselves……"

As we walked pass the fruits, and stopped by this lovely pile of Sapodilla, Joy answered aquestion I had about fruit. We had noticed a lack of fruit in the very tropical Luang Prabang, and I was wondering why.

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The reason? It is believed that fruit is for the very young, and the very old, who have problems chewing, or little or no teeth.

Eggs were another little learning moment for me.

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All eggs that are produced in Laos are stamped. If there are no stamps on the eggs it means that it was probably imported. Eggs with what looks like hand written numbers on them are fertilized duck or chicken eggs (aka Balut), and the numbers indicate the gestational age of the eggs.

And soon it was off to the meat "department":

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I learned that in Luang Prabang, offal is much more expensive and treasured than lean cuts.

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I also learned that Water Buffalo is getting to be much more expensive. Machinery is slowly replacing the Water Buffalo for use in agriculture, so there are less of them.

I was also surprised at how many turkeys I saw.

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With the Mekong River on one side, and the Khan River on the other, you knew that fish and other products of the river was quite important.

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This catfish was very much alive, and even tried to bite my finger off. I was told that it can live for quite a long while out of the water.

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On the outer perimeter of the market reside some of the more interesting items, like bee larvae hives.

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And all manner of dried "meat".

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You could make out some fish, birds, and various rodents. But I had no clue what some of this stuff was.

Soon enough, Joy met us at the tuk-tuk, with a little plastic bag filled with greenish liquid, and a little bamboo tube. I guess it was time to start cookin'!

Stay tuned for part 2!

Road Trip: Hwang Hae Do Korean BBQ – Garden Grove (OC)

**** This location of Hwang Hae Do has closed

I took a day off right after the New Year, for the purpose of going on a short eating road trip to LA and the OC with two of my friends, MrS, and the entity that is known as the EatingMachine. We started at Mei Long Village, for Xiao Long Bao, and a few Shanghainese cold dishes. Next it was off to Food Cabin, for more Xiao LongBao, Shengjian Bao, and other assorted dishes. Lucky for us, "DaMachine" was running smoothly, easily eliminating any possibility of leftovers. On the way back, we decided to stop for a "real meal" in the area of Garden Grove Icall Koreatown South. I had written down a few listings in my "black book", but Mr S, pulling from his Korean roots dismissed my list, brought out his cell phone, and went off on a speed dial frenzy. The consensus, was for Hwang Hae Do….. which was one of the places on my list! Ha!

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Hwang Hae Do looks quite humble in comparison to some of the newer and more fancy restaurants in the area. And boy does this place love its photos, posters, and fliers.

The interior is "old wood rustic", with the ever present Plasma Television going strong.

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Hwang Hae is a province in North Korea, so if the name meant anything, this would be North Korean inspired food. I had written down the dishes that I wanted to try at Heang Hae Do, and looking down the list, after all the XLB, I crossed off the mandu, but had something else in mind. And MrS, after chatting with the really nice lady, came to the same conclusion. And, of course it was one of the items on the myriad of flyers posted everywhere around the place.

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HwangHaeDo04After Mr S placed our orders in Korean, the panchan arrived. There were a few items, I enjoyed, the baechu kimchi (Napa Cabbage kimchi) was very good. And I don't recall seeing dotorimuk (Acorn Jelly) much in San Diego. But most of it was pretty mild in flavor.

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Pretty soon a metal "pan" of sorts was placed above the BBQ brazier. The pan had a "moat" of sauce encircling it.

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It was Yook-soo Bulgogi($18.99/order – minimum 2 orders) time! A huge platter of thinly sliced meat, onions, scallions, and mushrooms arrived, and was piled on the top of the pan.

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For ease of use, part of the meat was portioned off on a bowl placed on the table.

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While the rest remained on the platter, table side.

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Sheesh, do ya' think this was enough? And what is even more impressive…..this was only 2 orders, and came with rice, and 2 beers (OB).

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For those who have never had Yook-soo Bulgogi, I think I can best describe it as a Sukiyaki like dish.

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This broth was mild and balanced in flavor, just lightly sweet. There are places in San Diego that make this, but most versions are much too sweet and heavy. The meat was good in quality, soft, and almost melted in your mouth.

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And while we were waiting for our meat to cook, MrS had ordered us Mul Naengmyun, the classic North Korean cold buckwheat noodle soup dish.

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The tangy broth, even when tempered with liberal doses of vinegar sent my tastebuds into overdrive. It was a nice foil to the meat, and was a very effective palate cleanser. Even with all the meat, I managed to finish my entire bowl. Yes, we each had an entire metal bowl. In case you're interested there's an interesting post on Naengmyun in Pyongyang which can be found here.

As if to add the "cherry on the top", at the end noodles are placed in the meat infused broth.

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After all of that food we had earlier, I can't believe we finished everything in fine fashion. Total damage, 2 orders Yook-soo Bulgogi, 3 Mul Naengmyun – $62.

HwangHaeDo16 The only problem we had was staying awake on the drive back to San Diego.

The service was efficient, the lady was very nice. Not much English spoken, but there are all those posters everywhere….

Hwang Hae Do
9567 Garden Grove Blvd
Garden Grove, CA 92842

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El Salvador Pupuseria y Restaurante – A revisit

We used to have El Salvador Pupuseria y Restaurante on our rotation, but in recent years it had fallen off. Not because the food had fallen off, but because we just didn't visit enough. Over the last few years, the restaurant has cleaned upa bit, and gone are the loud video games. The interior has been freshened up a bit…with the emphasis on "a bit", and does look nicer.

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This being Sunday, there was a steady flow of customers in and out of the restaurant, and a good number of take-out orders. And though the two young ladies running the floor looked a bit overwhelmed, they were very nice and friendly.

Things started with the basic chips and salsa.

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Things look the same, right? So why a new post? Well, first off, like most places, prices have increased a bit. Pupusas are now $1.99, still a bargain, and the weekend soups (like in this post), have gone up a dollar to $7.95. It is still a very reasonable eating option.

Also gone is the "whole bucket of curtido", which is now served thusly:

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Still, a change in prices, and modification of  side dishes, would not usually mean a new post.

What would entice me to do an updated post? Well, today we noticed an item on the menu, we had not noticed before.

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It's called Pacayas Forradas con Huevo ($7.95). Never heard of it. Doesn't look like anything particularly interesting. But brush off some of the really nice mildly sweet and rich tomato based sauce, and the egg batter, and something like this looks back out at ya'.

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El Salvador Pupuseria05Don't they look like little tentacles that are going to reach out and grab you? Or maybe baby-baby corn? The pacayas, had a crunch to it, and a puckery-tannic bitterness, that bothered the Missus a bit. The sauce did well to balance out the flavor. And lest you think this is an ovo-vegetarian dish, we spied strands of meat in the sauce, and pulled out a chicken wing-tip from under the pacayas. The sauce was good….very good, and we mopped every drop of it up with the tortillas.

So what is pacaya? Not much on the Internet, but I found this post and photo from a Guatemala blog that provided a good bit of information. Appears that this was the flower from a species of palms called Chamaedorea.

And yes, the Pupusas are still quite good.

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El Salvador Pupuseria08And Pupusas de Queso con Loroco has been added to them menu (or maybe we just didn't notice before). You can find a photo of Loroco on this post from Ed from Yuma.

My favorite of the day was the Pupusa de Chicharron, which was so good, I forgot to take a photo of it. Great pork flavor.

So why El Salvadoran food today…and why have I been checking out a Guatemalan blog? hmmmm……..

El Salvador Pupuseria y Restaurante
3824 University Ave
San Diego, CA 92105

Yum Cha Cafe – A brief look…..

**** Yum Cha Cafe has closed

It seems that a whole bunch of FOYs (Friends of Yoso) have been on "Yum Cha Cafe watch". A few days back, FOY Trent email'd me saying that he saw equipment being moved into the space….and like a good YCC groupie, I was there that afternoon to take a photo.

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Walking up to the window, I peered at the menu…..and felt funny. This was getting a bit out of hand. There's a fine line between groupie and stalker. So I backed a-waaay from the window, leaving behind the gathered condensation left by my nose and hands, walked away, and decided to tuck Yum Cha Cafe back into the far reaches of my mind.

Until……. I received an email from another FOY, Fred, who informed me that Yum Cha Cafe was open. A perfect storm had formed. I had gone in to work at 6am and been so busy that I skipped lunch, I was hungry, the Missus had also been "shopping" so She had skipped lunch. Yum Cha Cafe here we come…..

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There are two ways of ordering…you can either fill in one of the order sheets and hand it to someone….or elbow your way in line and order from one of the ladies, who may hand you off to another lady, who in turn, will pass you off to the cashier. One other thing, Vietnamese is the language of choice for many of the employees at this location of Yum Cha Cafe.

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Compared to the San Gabriel location, the prices here are about 40 cents to a dollar more here in San Diego.

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And there was a full complement of Chinese BBQ, but no Rice Porridge today.

Yum Cha Cafe in San Gabriel serves up decent quality food at good prices, how would the new San Diego location hold up? Well…… we'd like to make a few more visits, so you'll have to wait for a bit. But that means that you be able to visit, and form your own opinions, right?

But just as a tease, here's some chicken feet ($1.39):

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I'm showing these with the express purpose of tempting FOY and fellow food blogger CAB.

I think the Missus kinda enjoyed these…

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01302009 030 Even though the prices here are 40% higher than LA, the Missus and I filled up for a total (including tax) of $8.78. And because great minds think alike, I think we saw Cathy's Husband (The Mister) walking into the place as we were driving out!

Yum Cha Cafe
6933 Linda Vista Road
San Diego, CA 92111

Open Daily: 8am-8pm

Wandering Chopsticks writes about the San Gabriel location of Yum Cha Cafe in this post.