mmm-yoso – Page 363

Vientiane: Petang, Wat Si Muang, Bounmala Restaurant, and we’re headed for Luang Prabang

December 6, 2008 mmm-yoso Lao Restaurants, Laos, Travel, Vientiane

The Missus has a way of trying to maximize our "experiences" when it comes to vacations, and this last afternoon and evening in Vientiane was no exception. The day had started with a visit to Khou Din Market, at noon we had lunch at Nang Kham Bang Restaurant, and now, after an all too short nap, we hit the road again. There was a restaurant I was interested in, and being about 3-4 kilometers away, getting a tuk-tuk seemed like a good idea. The Missus had other plans, though! There was (yet another) Wat She wanted to visit, and it just so happened to be on the way.... by foot.

We started off, down the now well-worn (by us) riverfront street of Fa Ngoum, passing the back of the Presidential Palace and Mahosot Hospital. A few blocks down, in the courtyard of one of the Wats we spied a young man tossing a metal ball in the air:

He was playing a popular game called "Petang" in Laos. Otherwise known as Pétanque, a remnant from the days of French Colonialism.

The Young Man, was very nice, and much to our surprise spoke excellent English. He explained the game to us; the objective is to get your boule (metal ball) as close to the cochonnet (wooden ball) as possible. He even had the Missus give it a try, showing Her a few of the techniques, as well.

It is harder than it looks!

We really enjoyed talking to this young man, and during the course of our conversation, we found out much about him. For the sake of the post, let's call him Mr"A". Mr A, is currently a student, in the final stages of attaining a very high level degree. Coming from a very poor family in Savannaket Province, he has no means by which to support his education. Because he was very involved in the community back in his hometown, he was referred to this Wat. And now is one of 4 non-Monks who live on the grounds of the Wat.

We were slowly coming to realize how important these Wats were to the fabric of the community. We enjoyed chatting with MrA, and decided to invite him along for dinner. He accepted, and asked us if we would wait a few minutes, he returned a short time later, clothes changed, and nicely groomed for dinner. He looked much better than I did!

We asked MrA if he would grant us a favor…. we wanted to visit Wat Si Muang before settling in for dinner. MrA was more than happy to walk with us to Wat Si Muang, and was even happier to teach us a bit about the history and various ceremonies regarding Buddhism inLaos. Wat Si Muang was a busy, and bustling place, even at this time of the day. Being home of the Guardian Spirit of Vientiane, Si Muang is one of the more important Wats in Vientiane.

The home of the Guardian, the City Pillar is wrapped in sacred cloth.

Within the Sim, MrA took us to make offerings, and receive blessings, and also took us to the rather odd looking artifact to the right. During the Siamese-Lao War of 1828, Wat Si Muang was razed. The stone figure sitting on the pillow is of a Seated Buddha which survived, albeit a bit melted, the inferno. It is believed that this Buddha has the power to grant wishes. In order to do this, from a kneeling position, you must raise the Buddha up over your head three times while making your wish. I could tell by how hard the Missus was shaking while trying to raise the artifact, that one of the wishes crossing Her mind was, "I wish this thing were lighter". In my mind, I was wishing and hoping that the Missus didn't drop the Buddha, thereby destroying a sacred relic… how many years of bad luck would that be??? To my relief, the Missus completed ~~Her seated clean and jerk~~ raising the Buddha the required number of times, took one of the slips from the wooden box, and had the Monk recite Her "fortune". What it is, She's not telling…. I think it's something between Her and Buddha!

Leaving Si Muang, MrA, never having heard of our destination Bounmala Restaurant, flagged down a tuk-tuk, and asked directions. He was told it is far away, and costs 40,000 Kip (about $4.50/US). So we piled in, and drove about 2 blocks, and was let off! MrA was flummoxed…..he had been taken for a ride, so to speak. I couldn't stop laughing! For some reason, the fact that the tuk-tuk driver would take advantage of a local made me feel better. It's not only tourists that get scammed……

But at least we had arrived at our destination, Bounmala Restaurant.

This looked more like a pub than a restaurant, with mini-watercooler beer dispensers on the tables of several groups of locals having a good time, along with a few "Beer Girls" to help the House sell liquid refreshment. And I'd have been a bit hesitant about eating here if not for the wonderful scents surrounding the whole area!

Now here's where I need to apologize…… night falls like a big dark curtain in SEA. And the following will be some of the worst photos I took all trip. I can understand if you want to leave, and perhaps return another day. I had thoughts of not doing this post. But this was by far the best meal we had in Vientiane.

We started with the Papaya Salad (Tam Mak Hung):

Best papaya salad we had during the whole trip. The spiciness was countered with a balanced refreshing citrus kick. The addition of the perfect amount of Padek (Lao fermented fish sauce) gave this dish an added savory component, making it a bit richer. Wonderful stuff for 10,000 Kip (just over $1/US).

Bamboo Shoot Soup:

A very thick, dark, and almost potage like soup, full of various herbs. The soup had a pronounced bitterness to it; it was our first significant encounter with the bitter flavors that the Lao seem to enjoy, and lace many of their dishes with. Not my favorite dish in the world, but I'm glad I tried it.

That embarrassing photo to the right is of Ping Pet (Grilled Duck), one of the best items we had during our trip. Grilled to perfection, the duck meat was more on the chewy side, but oh the flavors!A chili garlic sauce was provided, but really wasn't needed for this dish. MrA kept apologizing for the tuk-tuk incident, and now the cost of the grilled duck – 40,000 Kip (approx $4.50/US). But we explained to MrA that we're on holiday, and this for us is a wonderful treat. Plus, the conversation was priceless!

The last dish, and really bad photo, is of the fantastic fish larb. All of the wonderful flavors of a classic larb, combined with moist and tender pieces of briefly cooked fish. Man this was good!

Our conversations ranged far and wide. From questions that we were asked constantly during the trip; "ok, you are Americans…. but what are you REALLY?" To queries about our work, and everyday life. Forgetting that even though the 'D' in Laos PDR stands for Democratic, it is still a Communist Country, the Missus asked about corruption and government fraud. MrA gracefully answered; "oh, I cannot say…." After an evening of unforgettable food and discussion, we walked MrA back to the Wat, and made our way (by foot) back to the hotel, for a night of blissful, food induced sleep.

We awoke the next morning, raring to go, we would be heading for Luang Prabang. We decided to take one final stroll around Vientiane….

And stopped by the Scandinavian Bakery for a quick breakfast.

This was the most tourists we recalled seeing in Vientiane.

Soon after returning to the hotel, we packed. Having just 7 kilos of stuff a piece meant pretty quick packing. Wattay International Airport is tiny. After going through the first security check and through the ticket counter, you wait sitting on plastic seats in the run down, "naturally air-conditioned" main lobby. You don't want to be going to the restroom here; take my word for it!

It is best to wait until being called through to the second security check point, and to the departure gate area.

There is only 1 gate at this airport and the area is air conditioned. The Missus even found the best Soy Milk She's had in years in the one shop in the gate area. The restrooms here are clean and well maintained. But that doesn't mean you won't find anything interesting…..

The Missus snapped this photo in the ladies room:

For some reason She found it particularly funny!

When your flight is called, you walk out onto the tarmac. We were flying Lao Airlines. Even though we heard folks expressing a bit of concern about Lao Airlines, we felt perfectly safe….

After all, we had Monks sitting in the front seats. And we had been blessed by a Monk in Wat Si Muang…. I didn't remove mine until I got home!

And Luang Prabang lay ahead of us……..

Our posts on Vientiane:

A walking tour and PVO.

The Lao Orchid Hotel and dinner on the bank of the Mekong.

Morning in Vientiane nd Khou Din Market.

Nang Kham Bang Restaurant.

Nasubi no Nimono (Simmered Eggplant)

December 5, 2008 mmm-yoso Cooking, Recipes

Okay, here's an easy one. The Missus requested the "eggplant dish" from Okan, without the miso. It suddenly occurred to me that I hadn't made this before. Having had some previous experience with simmering eggplant, I know they tend to disintergrate and get mushy quickly. So I turned to Shizuo Tsuji's classic book, Japanese Cooking: A Simple art. Even though this recipe is not from the book, I consider it a must for any Cooking Library. In the book, eggplants are scored lengthwise and fried in a pan before subjecting it to the simmering liquid.

This worked out better than expected. Scoring also helped the eggplant absorb the dashi. The Missus thought they were fantastic. The only problem now, is after making this, along with Gobo Salad and Kabocha Nimono, the Missus no longer sees a need in visiting Okan! I'll have to figure something out…..

Nasu no Nimono (simmmered eggplant):

6-8 Japanese Eggplant
2 Tb Canola Oil
2 Cups Dashi
1/4 Cup Soy Sauce – This time I used Kikkoman whole bean
1/4 Cup mirin
2 Tb Sugar

1 – Chop off the stems of the eggplant, than cut fine slits about 1/4 inch apart along the length of the eggplant.
2 – Heat a saucepan over medium heat, add oil, turning saucepan to make sure it is evenly coated.
3 – Add eggplant and fry until the skins wilt. Remove the eggplant from pan when done.
4 – Heat dashi, soy sauce, and mirin in a pan over medium heat. Add egglpant nad bring to a boil, than lower heat to a mild simmer.
5 – Cover and simmer for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes and taste broth. Adjust flavors and finish simmering for another 5 minutes.
6 – Remove from heat, cool, and place in the refrigerator overnight.
7 – Slice the eggplant into 2-3 large slices before serving, pour a few tablespoons of the broth over the eggplant as well.Serve warm or cool.

Man that broth is good……

Khan’s Cave Grill & Tavern

December 4, 2008 mmm-yoso Asian Fusion/Pacific Rim/Hawaii Style Fusion, Chicken Wings, Chinese Restaurants, Pubs and Pub Grub

When I first noticed Khan's Cave I really didn't know what to make of it. Somehow, Genghis Khan, and the phrase "Bar & Grill" just didn't seem to go together. This corner of the strip mall location used to be Hsu's Szechwan, an American-Szechwan-Mongolian BBQ restaurant that must've been around since the gold rush. Perhaps a tie-in with the old Mongolian BBQ joint? Who knows…..

After Khan's Cave opened, it became one of those, "oh, yeah, I need to check it out one-of-these days" places. You know what I mean, you drive by, and go "oh, yeah……" And a few blocks later, the image has receded into the nether regions of your brain. which is what always seemed to happen to me. FOY, Rebecca sent me an email at the end of August, telling me of her very positive experience at Khan's; and yet it still took me almost three months to get there!

Before visiting, I had checked out the menu on the Restaurant's website, which was a mish-mash of Asian influenced dishes from all over the map, and more than a few Fusion items, which left me, well, a bit con-"fused". I also noticed that dinner prices ran from $12-24, with lunch being a better deal. But the best deal of them all, was happy hour, which ran 7 days a week, from 4pm to 630 pm.

Appetizers and selected menu items were $2-3 off, and $1 off all beer in the patio and lounge areas. I decided that this would be a nice thing to try out. The restaurant has been renovated, and the warm looking bar area now occupies the former Mongolian griddle area. The selection of draft beers is pretty good, 20 in all, with 25 or so wines available by the glass.

So I got a nice tall "Arrogant Bastard", and looked over the bar menu.

Rebecca had recommended the Pepper Salt Calamari ($7 – happy hour price), which sounded like a nice beer grub type of dish. It would also be a good test of the kitchen…. to see if they could do two deceivingly simple things right; cooking calamari and frying.

When the plate hit the table, I thought it looked kind of greasy, but these were good. Crisp, light batter, the calamari were cooked to perfection (not hard and rubbery), and the squid rings had that nice Chinese "salt and pepper" flavor. Yes, salty indeed, but my kind of bar grub.

I also had thoughts of ordering the Pepper Salt Chicken Wings, but showing much restraint, I went with the Sriracha Thai Chicken Wings ($7).

The wings had a nice texture, with a bit of the fried crunch remaining, and was well coated with a spicy sauce which slowly got hotter and hotter as you ate them. This was reminiscent of Buffalo Wings in flavor(without the margarine fattiness), and like Buffalo Wings, I'd have enjoyed a nice "foil" for the heat and acidity, a la Blue Cheese dressing. These got a bit mundane after a while, but I was glad it wasn't too sweet.

This was more than I could finish, and I ended up taking a bit of it home with me. Overall, it wasn't a too bad experience. I also found out that the Chef was from Hong Kong.

With that experience in hand, I decided to grab lunch at Khan's. And this time I went with one of the ultimate, "it really doesn't exist in the supposed Country of origin dishes"; Singapore Noodles ($9.95). Really, there is no such thing as what we call Singapore Noodles in Singapore(well, maybe now with globalization…) , which puts the dish in the class of Chop Suey, Crab Rangoon, and Sesame Chicken.

That doesn't mean that I don't like it if it is well prepared. The portion size was on the small side, which in this day and age of humongous portions is not necessarily a bad thing. Several nice sized shrimp were provided as well. The vegetables were hard and undercooked, and though there was a nice curry kick, the dish lacked any other flavor, and was badly in need of soy, and perhaps chicken stock to add flavor. The one thing good about the dish was that the noodles weren't overcooked and mushy, and the dish came off as being less oily. At 10 bucks, I thought it was a bit over-priced, and at almost $12 for dinner……

As I've mentioned before, it's a fine line between Fusion and Con-Fusion food. Pulling off Seafood Pad Thai, Yakisoba, Ramen, and Pasta well, is a daunting task. I think the decor in the dining room at Khan's represents the food well:

Everything from decent tables and chairs to barrels(?) used as a table stand, and nice tile work transitioning to cheap looking carpet. Khan's has also kept the original ceiling from Hsu's, which adds even more kitsch to the equation.

That doesn't mean I won't be returning for a $5 – 22oz draft beer or some nice salty fried things during happy hour. I've filed it away as, "Asian TGI Fridays, meets PF Chang"…..

Khan's Cave Bar & Grill
9350 Clairemont Blvd
San Diego, CA 92123

Thanks for the recommendation Rebecca!

One more thing. For some reason, I think FOY CAB may want to check out this dish:

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Vientiane: Nang Kham Bang Restaurant

December 2, 2008 mmm-yoso Lao Restaurants, Laos, Travel, Vientiane

The Missus was craving some Larb for lunch. This sounded like a mission for our own guardian angel in Vientiane, Ai from the Lao Orchid Hotel. Just as with previous queries, Ai grabbed a few of her cronies in a semi-huddle, made a couple of calls, and came up with the result; Nang Kham Bang Restaurant, which just happened to be 2 blocks away. After walking right past it twice, we stopped, and actually read a sign for a change……. you just know I wasn't going to ask for directions…..

The interior is kind of odd. It is divided in half by glass; one part of the restaurant is air-conditioned, the other half is not.

The menu, itself was a conglomeration of interesting dishes like stuffed frog legs. The clientele, was all Lao. We learned how to identify a "real" Lao (as in places where Lao folks actually eat), by this:

Why the sink? Well, if you think about it, the required item for meals is:

Sticky rice. And the most important eating instrument is….well…your hand. So washing your hands right outside of the doorway makes complete sense.

The first thing to arrive was a plate of greens, veggies, and herbs:

We were to find that it was typical to find a plate of green beans, and other items provided to accompany your meal. The most interesting item on the plate were these little eggplants.

We started with some Stir Fried Morning Glory:

This was not as good, as the version we had eaten the previous night. These were rather tough, and strangely, on the bland side.

Next up, Beef Laap(Laap Sin):

This had a nice balance of sour and spicy flavors, with a mild nuttiness brought on by the roasted rice powder. Not much in the way of beefy flavor, and as we found throughout our travels in SEA, the beef was on the chewy side.

We also ordered the Papaya Salad (Tam Mak Hung):

Nice and balanced sweet and sour flavors, I have a feeling they went easy on us in the spicy department. Crisp and refreshing, this was probably in the top three with regards to Papaya Salads on this trip.

Of course, it wouldn't be a meal without some comic relief from the mmm-bozo! When the veggies arrived, the Young Man serving us pointed at some chilies, and warned us by saying "ka-boom", and miming a mushroom cloud rising from what would be his now shattered cranium with his hands. No need for the ol' skull-and-crossbones sign here, we understood….

You know of course, we paid no heed to the young man's warning. The Missus and I both sampled a pepper. "KA-BOOM" is an understatement. Lucky for me, having had some experience with chilies, I didn't let my lips get involved, so you wouldn't find me lying face down in a pool of cerebral spinal fluid, nor would I be picking pieces of cranium and grey matter out of my papaya salad, but this stuff was pretty potent. The Missus turned several colours, red, sweaty grey, then pale white, as She told me She could feel the pepper burning a trail down Her esophagus, and into Her stomach. God only knew what tomorrow was going to bring. I think we've had our share of spicy food…but man this was hot!!!

Later when asked about this place, Ai told me that the local folks with "money"…. i.e. who can afford to, eat here. It did turn out to be a nice refreshing meal for under $10/US. And knowing not what the Missus had planned for later that day (after my little midafternoon nap, of course), I'd probably end up needing some "refreshing"……

Nang Kham Bang Restaurant

Khoun Boulum St.

Vientiane, Lao PDR

Mr Dumpling

December 1, 2008 mmm-yoso Chinese Restaurants

*** Mr Dumpling has closed

Ever since PedMa and MrC mentioned that a restaurant called Mr Dumpling was opening up, the Missus & I kept tabs on the place during our trips to 99 Ranch Market. We both found the location, on Convoy Court, away from Clairemont Mesa Boulevard to be a bit strange.

But the Owners have done a really nice job with the place, from the very clean and uncluttered interior, to the orchids adorning the patio. Mr Dumpling the restaurant, does not resemble what I'd imagine a "Mr Dumpling" to look like.

The tables are covered with crisp white tablecloths, and the earthy tones, are quite nice and relaxing. Of course, the Missus couldn't help but say, "of course it's nice, they just opened up….give it a couple of years."

The menu looked like a scattershot of various Mainland Chinese dishes, everything from Mapo Dofu and Hunan Dofu, to of course, Jiaozi. The array of offerings did cause some head-scratching, but we're pretty familiar with the Chinese clean-cafe-eatery, phenomenon in LA. Actually, this is not isolated to Chinese cuisine, FOYs, Beach, Chubbypanda, and I had discussed this with regards to Vietnamese Restaurants in Little Saigon as well. Even a brief discussion would take up several posts, so I'll pass on that subject this time around.

Back to Mr Dumpling. We were informed that the "Chef" is from Shandong, which helped to give the Missus and I bearings with regards to ordering. While perusing the menu, we encountered our first mildly disturbing "sign", our pot of tea was delivered….. with the tea bag label sticking out of the pot. That single teabag tag sticking out of the top of the teapot just seemed out of place, and in stark contrast with the surroundings.

We started with a dish that the Missus has been eating since a young child – The Shanghai style Smoked Fish (Su Shih Hsun Yuu ), the price ($9.95) was a bit startling, but it's a dish that we can't help but order everywhere we go. It is a Shanghainese dish, but one that is very popular in Shandong.

This was just wrong on so many levels; first, this was a very, very, small portion(for $10)….check out the tines of the fork for comparison. Second, there was none of that sweet-5 spice flavor that is the hallmark of his dish. Third, the type of fish was wrong….the texture was too meaty, and tasteless, like really bad albacore tuna. Click on any of the links above the photo, and you'll see what we were expecting. The Missus's maternal Grandmother was master of this dish, and Her Fifth Aunt, who is the best cook in the family, carries on the tradition. My Mother-In-Law believes the version at Chin's, is spot on. I dunno what this was, but it sure wasn't Shanghai Smoked Fish. We'd have been satisfied if this wasn't a classic rendition of the dish, and had some redeeming qualities, but this was plain bad.

The next dish to arrive was something whose very mention can cause the Missus's mouth to water; Dezhou Pa Ji – (Dezhou Style Braised Chicken, $6.99). Dezhou a city located in Northwest Shandong, is well known for their braised chicken. This dish evokes so many deep-seated memories, that the Missus wrote Her one and only post on it.

The dish arrived, steaming hot…..but the skin was dry…..microwaved perhaps? All the Missus's hopes were dashed after one bite. Again, this was bland, with just a hint of flavor, which was more like soy-sauce chicken than Dezhou Pa Ji.

Alas, this meal was not going very well from the food standpoint. The service however, was very attentive, our plates changed, and our water refilled. Soon a tray of vinegar and soy sauce was placed at our table.

This last dish we ordered, if good, would make the entire meal worthwhile. If there is just one item that immediately comes to mind when the very word Shandong is uttered, it would be Jiaozi. Over the years, I've come to understand what an important role Jiaozi plays in the Northern Chinese household.

We ordered "Mr Dumpling's Special Dumplings" ($6.99).

First off, these dumplings took 40 minutes to get to us. I really didn't mind, I had mental pictures of fresh dough being made, rolled out, and formed by hand to order, floating through my head. Well, this didn't quite deliver, the filling, a combination of pork-shrimp-chives, had decent flavor. But the dough was hard, noodle-like, tearing instead of having any pull. As the Missus says, "it's all about the wrapper". From that end, this was pretty mediocre. Again with the Missus: "this place makes Dumpling Inn seem more like Dumpling King." We had thoughts when initally looking over the menu, of seeing what the food was like, and than ordering more; a strategy that I'm glad we took.

For us, the food at Mr Dumpling didn't live up to the decor, service, and price. Driving home we were trying to figure out what was going on. Perhaps the Chef was new to the various ingredients sourced in the US? I'm going to give this place a long rest, I hope the food improves…..

Silver Lining Note: The Missus felt so bad for me after this meal. So She decided to come out of Her self-imposed Jiaozi "retirement". I had Shrimp and Chive dumplings the next day!!

Mr Dumpling
7250 Convoy Ct
San Diego, CA 92111

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Saturday Stuffs: Seafood Island coming soon, and our “Thanksgiving leftover” dish.

November 29, 2008 mmm-yoso Cooking, yoso-silly

Coming Soon – Seafood Island:

Many thanks to the half dozen folks who emailed me about this, including FOY, Tanya and CandiceW. I passed by yesterday, and there is still a bunch of construction going on.

Looks like a very nice restaurant, in a bit of a strange location. You can check out the website here. The menu is humongous, enough to give you "Vietnamese menu overload." The cuisine is described as "authentic" Vietnamese, Chinese, and Korean (??!??) cuisine. Regardless, it sure does look like a seafood lover's dream.

I have one question though. And this kinda bothers me a bit, check out the "testimonials" written on the contact page. This place isn't even open yet, how can you have testimonials? I'm kinda slow, so help me out with this one.….

Seafood Island
7580 Miramar Road
San Diego, CA 92126

Our Thanksgiving leftover dish - Oden:

I like to think we're pretty good at minimizing food waste. The Missus and I love leftovers, and try not to waste. Unfortunately, there's always the case of making a dish, and having stuff left over. And sometimes we do end up throwing things out. We're trying to be a bit better, and not waste. One of the dishes that is heaven sent when it comes to having leftovers from making various Japanese dishes is Oden. I had thought we'd be eating pretty simple this Thanksgiving……. until the Missus decided She wanted, "something good for a change". One of the "somethings" was Gomoku Gohan a mixed rice dish. And in addition to the leftover dashi, I had a bunch of other stuff left-over from the variety of ingredients the Missus wanted in Her rice.

Having a variety of fishcake in the freezer, purchased during sales are heaven sent.

There are several standard Oden items the Missus doen't like in Her Oden; Kamaboko and Chikuwa, two types of fishcake…which ironically, are two of my favorite things! The item the Missus requires in Her Oden are hard boiled eggs and Konnyaku.

If you're not up to making your own shiro, there are many types of Tsuyu (instant soup base) available, and you just have to add water. If you use them, make sure you're not sensitive to MSG.

So here my Thanksgiving leftovers version of Oden:

Hope you're having a great weekend!

Happy Thanksgiving!

November 27, 2008 mmm-yoso yoso-silly

Something to be thankful for:

Our annual bag of Hachiya persimmons from a great (this always upgrades them from "good") friend!

Sounds like one of those "oh no, not another what I'm thankful for paper" that we had to write in the ___ (fill in the blanks) grade. In retrospect, the Missus and I have much to be thankful for. We have each other, our health, family, and in spite of the difficult economic times, we're making due. God knows we're eating well!

But there's even more to be for us to be thankful for this Thanksgiving. Be it ever so humble, this is post 1000 ! Yes, we've made a thousand.

We've had a great couple of years, and I personally, could never have imagined we'd have made it this far. Hard to believe that I've crossed so much of my list; Bun Cha, Banh Mi, and Cha Ca in Hanoi.

Pad Thai from street carts in Chiang Mai, Naem from a stall on the shores of the Mekong, Cuy made especially for us in Cusco, Cebiche in Lima, and even Deep-fried Cheese Curds in Madison. Boy, have we put in the miles!

Hopefully, we're not done yet!

So right now, the entire gang at mmm-yoso would like to thank you for visiting. We'd never have hung around this long without you!

The Missus and I are taking it easy this Thanksgiving, but we wanted to wish you all:

Happy Thanksgiving! From the gang at mmm-yoso!!!

Wal Mi Do Part 2 – The Rest of the Meal

November 25, 2008 mmm-yoso Korean Restaurants, Seafood, Sushi and Sashimi

*** Wal Mi Do has closed

So what can possibly top eating sannakji? Surely, the rest of the meal was a slow, prolonged anti-climax, right? Well, not really. The sannakji was just a start to an interesting meal, with quite a few highs. My apologies in advance for using Japanese terminology for the various dishes. It is what I'm most familiar with, and thus is used as a point of reference.

From information I gathered from Sam, it appears that Walmido is an island connected to Inchon, Korea, and an area well known for their seafood. At this Wal Mi do, along with the live abalone, geoduck (mirugai), lobster, and octopus, is a tank of this:

Live Halibut, known in sushi bar terms as Hirame. Sam explained that parties of 2-6 (or more) will buy a fish, priced from $100-$160 based on size. The fish is cut up, and served on a tray as sashimi along with panchan, and a huuuge assortment of steamed, grilled, and soup items. Watching four business men being served up this stuff was pretty amazing.

Soon enough, Sam brought me a plate of sashimi.

If you enjoy what the Japanese call "Shiromi" (whitefish), you will love this! The hallmark of Shiromi is a nice chewiness, and when really fresh like this, there is a pleasant, mild sweetness as well. This was very good, especially the two pieces of "Engawa", the dorsal fin muscle of the Halibut, and one of my favorite cuts of fish, and a real delicacy. High in fat, and the all important collagen (yes, yet again, more collagen for yoso – it's not only in hot dog buns you know). I'll take halibut this fresh, over live raw lobster sashimi any day of the week.

It is again interesting to note the Korean love affair with the chewy, firm texture.

Next up, what we call Kazunoko (Herring Roe) in Japanese:

I'm neither a big fan of Kazunoko, nor Saba (Mackerel), and this was combination of the two. But let me say, this was marriage made in heaven! The rich, salty, anchovy-ish flavor of the saba, was tempered and balanced with the sweet-pickled flavor of the kazunoko. I was enjoying this so much that Sam said; "Kirk-san, now I know what to get you for Christmas, he-he-he…" A few weeks later, I met FOY, and fellow food-blogger Captain Jack for lunch. I managed to snag a taste of this for him…..I think he'll confirm my opinion.

Next up Anago (Conger Eel):

The Anago was subjected to many tiny cuts, a la "Issan ni 24 hocho" (24 cuts to 3 centimeters) that is most commonly used for Hamo (Pike Eel). Anago is usually served grilled and sauced. This was again mildly chewy, and needed a good dose of Cho-Jang (hot sauce).

Next up, Sam smiled and placed this in front of me:

I couldn't identify it readily…it was what the Japanese call Hikarimono ( "Shiny meat", Bluefish). So what was it? Sam told me it was Sanma (Pacific Saury), somthing I'd never had as nigiri or sashimi before. I enjoy Sanma, but it's usually been Sanma Shioyaki(salt grilled) or simmered. I enjoy the strong flavored, oil-rich, sanma, but wasn't quite sure what this would be like. Sam told me: "Kirk-san, fresh from Japan, it would be a waste to grill". And he was right! Served in this manner, the soul of the sanma was captured, rich, almost buttery, with the sometimes strong flavor of the sanma toned down. Excellent!

Next up, Sea Squirt:

Known in Japanese as "Hoya", I've had these before, and have never been a big fan. There are folks who brag about finding these in various San Diego sushi bars, but not me. Still, put it in front of me…. My previous experiences were confirmed as not being flukes. This stuff to me has a astringent, iodine flavor, which I find unpleasant. The best version of this I've had was served as panchan. Which is what I did…pour even more Cho-Jang over the crunchy-chewy (again with the textures) flesh.

Extra bonus points: Did you know that oyster farm workers develop Sea Squirt Asthma, from prolonged exposure to Sea Squirts?

Extra bonus points 2: On the other hand, did you know that microbes called patellamides, a known cancer fighting substance infect Sea Squirts?

Like they say; "what doesn't kill you……"

Okay, enough with the Mr Wizard stuff, last up were some simple steamed sea snails:

If you enjoy what the Vietnamese call "ốc", you'll enjoy these.

Meanwhile, Sam and Wal Mi Do's Owner, Andy were cranking out the combination Sashimi platters:

Man were they working hard….

Can you believe an entire "box" of sea urchin on each of these platters?

Sam told me these platters, along with accompanying side dishes will run up to $160. And it was selling like crazy! Also, unlike the Japanese style of being served dish by dish, Koreans like all their food at once, so they can pick from a variety of items. As I left, I turned and noticed that all the customers were Korean, and they sure were enjoying their meals.

This was a wonderful experience, and I've got to thank Sam again, for making it fun, interesting, and most of all, a learning experience. I'm sure to be back soon….for maybe a Halibut plate??? And yes, Sam will still make you a 9-1-1 roll if you want…….

Wal Mi Do
4367 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111

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Laos – Morning in Vientiane and Khou Din Market

November 24, 2008 mmm-yoso Laos, Travel, Vientiane

After a restful night of BiaLao induced sleep, we both awoke, refreshed. Walking out to the small balcony, we viewed the serene, early morning Mekong, rolling along.

The view was tranquil, but the air was acrid…..

We were soon to find out why:

The infrastructure in Vientiane is not quite up to Western standards, and though I saw what could very loosely called "garbage collection" we also witnessed a lot of trash being burned. Not so bad if it were only leaves, but plastics, and other items were being torched as well. Much of it happens early in the morning, creating a distinctive stench.

The streets of Vientiane seemed still at this early hour. To say that Vientiane is sleepy is an understatement.

Even the very busy Setthathirath Road is quiet at 630am.

We walked to the very highly recommended JoMa Bakery and Cafe.

Very popular with European tourists and Ex-pats. JoMa is clean and bright, and though the various offerings did not look particularly inspiring to us, I had my Coke Light, and the Missus a Latte, while we sat and contemplated the day.

It was a nice quiet place at this time of the morning.

We strolled back slowly to our hotel……we were now operating at "Vientiane speed". A wonderfully laid-back pace…..

Just like Nong Khai, we had a Wat next door; in this case right across the street. Walking through the Wat on the way back, the Missus ran into an inquisitive Monk….. which resulted in a nice diversion. Well, maybe not for the Monk, who was suddenly subjected to a number of questions.

Arriving back at the hotel, we noticed Ai was working yet again. Among the subjects we chatted about was how was the lack of fresh fruits and such at Talat Sao. Ai laughed, and told us that the "Fresh Market" was on the block in back of Talat Sao, next to the bus station. So after a quick shower, guess where we were headed?

We decided to take the route up Chou Anou, than down some side streets and Samsenthai. This area is Vientiane's unofficial Chinatown.

We passed this Peking Duck Restaurant, and the Missus slipped in to check it out. Complete 3 course Peking Duck Dinner just 100,000 Kip (about $12/US)!

Kind of made us wish there were more people with us.

We saw these young men making Mantou.

And walked pass the huge Lao National Culture Hall.

Right across from the Lao National Museum. I wish we had a bit more time, but never had a chance to visit. Next time perhaps.

Further down the avenue, the Vietnamese shops appeared, including a few Banh Mi (Vietnamese Sandwich) shops.

Crossing still not so busy Lane Xang, we soon found ourselves in the back of Talat Sao.

Past the bus station, and the line-up of tuk-tuks.

And into Khou Din Market. Just photos…..

After the Missus picked up some Dragonfruit, we headed back the way we came. Back on Chou Anou, we noticed what looked to be a former movie theatre.

Was now a busy and packed noodle stand.

The street was starting to come to life, and we noticed that this young man had a special passenger!

Cracked us up…..but where's the pooch's helmet?

As we approached the hotel, and the always busy "ping" (grill) stall.

We noticed the bike riding pooch in the fenced off empty lot next door!

And realized we had seen the same dog the day before! I guess this is Vientiane's version of doggy daycare?

About this time, the drum at Inpeng Temple around the corner was going off.

It was lunch time!

To be continued……

Hong Kong BBQ & Dim Sum – This Time it’s the Chinese BBQ

November 23, 2008 mmm-yoso Chinese Restaurants

In the comments on my post on Sieu Sieu BBQ, "Nicole" was kind enough to remind me that I had not been back to Hong Kong BBQ and Dim Sum to try out the Chinese BBQ as promised. So recently, craving a bit of duck, I made it a point to check things out.

I got a half pound of Roast Pork ($9.25/lb), and a Half Roast Duck ($7.95).

The Roast Pork was a beautiful golden brown.

In what I found to be interesting, the Gentleman chopping the pork, first removed the crisp skin from the piece of pork; chopped the meat, than chopped the skin. After this procedure he placed the separated skin on top of the chopped meat. When biting into one of the pieces of skin, I figured out why this was done; it was very hard. The rest of the pork was rather good. I thought the fat to meat ratio was excellent, not too fatty, or waxy, and the meat moist. Enough of the fat had rendered during cooking. The flavor was good, with a nice pork flavor, perhaps a bit on the salty side. The meat bad almost a mild "cured" flavor, and perhaps missing a bit of the nice pork sweetness. The Missus thought it to be "too porky", as if there's such a thing????

After returning home, and re-reading Nicole's comment, I realized I had bought the "wrong duck". Nicole had recommended what is usually known as BBQ Duck, whereas I had purchsed a half Roast Duck.

My first thought when I opened this up was; "this is only half a duck?" This was a lot of duck…. The duck was nice and meaty, but very bland, it barely had the faintest hint of the rich duck flavor. I'm sure that preferences differ, but I'd take leaner and tastier duck, over meaty but bland duck. The skin was moist but tough. Not my favorite version of Roast Duck.

As with Sieu Sieu BBQ, the prices are reasonable, and I will probably try out the BBQ Duck, and some the dishes that Nicole recommended.

As I paid for my BBQ, the Lady behind the counter, perhaps playing "guess the customer's Nationality" told me "Cảm ơn" (Thank you in Vietnamese) while giving me my change….she cracked up when I told her Doh Jeh'. (Maybe I should have said "kamsa hamnida")

And in case you're like us, and still wondering what the heck you'll do for Thanksgiving:

Hong Kong BBQ & Dim Sum
10550 Camino Ruiz(Inside of Vinh Hung Market)
San Diego, CA 92126

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