Road Trip: Hong Kong Fishball House – “Fried Pork Rectum” redux – Rowland Heights

I'm always wondering how my tastes have changed over time. And what better way to check than to try something that I've found… ummm….. "undelicious" (is there such a word?). So on one of our trips back to the "old neighborhood" I decided to try a dish I found somewhat "undelicious" back in 2006. 

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Yes, it was time to return to Hong Kong Fishball House and retaste a dish that I thought was appropriately named; the Fried Pork Rectum. Yes, I know it really is just Deep Fried Pork Intestine which it seems that I've been consuming quite often recently.

Hong Kong Fishball House looks just about the same, same greasy patio furniture, the potted palm looks much taller, and of course prices have gone up. The Fried Pork Rectum has gone up 50 cents to $2.75. I also noticed that the Fried Pork Rectum sign has developed a thicker layer of grease over it.

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The Missus placed the order, and while I waited for my rectum (ok, this one is too easy, so I won't add anything to it), She took a stroll.

After a few minutes, my rectum was ready. As before, it was placed in a styrofoam container. While waiting for the Missus, I opened the container and took a whiff!

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DSCF1796First off, it didn't smell quite as dank as I recalled. When picking up a piece, I noticed that this was pretty greasy. I popped the sliced piece of intestine into my mouth. I quickly noticed how bland it tasted. The fried slices of intestine needed more salt. The initial mild sweetness was still present, but this was lacking the earthy tones that I've become used to. On the good side, the unpleasant film that often coats your mouth after eating fried intestine was missing. No nasty sour aftertaste as well.

DSCF1793In the end, this was pretty anti-climatic. But it was a nice little study in how my tastes and preferences are constantly changing.

Hong Kong Fishball House
18414 Colima Rd
Rowland Heights, CA 91748

So tell me, how have your tastes changed over the last two years?

Postscript: The redone HK2 Food District has opened. A post is forthcoming……

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Roadtrip: Northern Chinese Restaurant – Rosemead (Los Angeles)

**** Northern Chinese Restaurant  has closed

On our last trip to the SGV (San Gabriel Valley) it was our intention to stop by Northern Chinese Restaurant first, since I read that they open at 1030 am. We'd grab some small eats and head to the next place on hour list. But things change quickly in the SGV, hours are rearranged constantly, and when we arrived at the strip mall that houses Northern Chinese Restaurant, Shin Sen Gumi Hakata Ramen, among others, we were told that Northern doesn't open until 11am (even though the menu lists their hours as 1030am – 10pm). Which is why we ended up doing a return trip to Hunan Chilli King, whose sign says they open at 11am, but were open and going full tilt at 1040 am…..go figure! 

Northern01After building up a good sweat at HCK, we went through my ever shortening list of places to hit in the SGV, and decided to head back to Northern Chinese Restaurant. When we arrived, the restaurant was fairly empty, but had a table full of take-out orders. In fact, there was a steady stream of customers picking up their orders while we ate. We quickly looked over the menu, and made our selections, which came out extremely quickly….I mean really quickly!

First out of the kitchen, in a flash was the Stir Fried Mushroom ($8.88):

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Maybe it was the curse of having Hunan food before returning to Northern Restaurant, but we both found this interesting stir fry of various wild mushrooms to be unsatisfying. There was an interesting combination of textures, but some of the flavors, especially the small, hard, somewhat astringent tasting mushrooms, were rather unpleasant.

Next up was the Suan Cai Yang Rou (Pickled Sour Napa Casserole with Lamb – $9.88):

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First off the good; the lamb was prepared well, great texture, good gamey flavor, nie ratio of fat to meat. The wider cellophane noodles went well with this dish. The bad: there was too much cabbage, and not enough Suan Cai, a pickled cabbage much like sauerkraut. This made the broth terribly bland. There was also a large amount of ginger cut into triangles which were bothersome, unless you love biting into pieces of ginger every three bites or so. For my money, I prefer the version at Tianjin Bistro, though the lamb was prepared better here. I had leftovers a day later, and the broth was still much too bland……

For our last dish, the Missus ordered the Xun Rou Da Bing ("Smoke meat and Cake" on the menu – $4.95):

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Northern05Here we have a winna! Unlike the Niu Rou Chuan (Beef roll), this came deconstructed. You smeared a good amount of the pork and bean paste on your slice of Da Bing, added the shredded scallions, and a slice of the mild, but savory pork. Roll it up, and you have at it! As much as I really, really, enjoyed the bean paste, it was the bread that did it for me. The Da Bing was prepared perfectly, at least for me. Usually, either too much, or not enough oil is used, making the flat bread greasy and soggy or too dry and unpalatable. In this case, it was crisp on the exterior, yet pliable, the thin middle layer was moist and almost flakey, and not greasy at all.

It appeared that we had gone through the menu rather hastily, because looking over my photos of the menu, there were a few items we missed:

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We were impressed by the woman who waited on us, she answered all of the Missus's questions in detail (in Mandarin of course), and displayed a good knowledge of the food, to the point of describing the different mushrooms the stir fry, now lost to posterity. According to the Missus, the accents of staff were decidedly "very Northern, like Shenyang Northern", which makes sense. The restaurant is clean, and thankfully on the day we ate, had the A/C going at a nice level. I think we'll be back for the Da Bing…. and maybe some Shenyang Fake Dog Meat????

Northern Chinese Restaurant
8450 East Valley Blvd.
Rosemead, CA 91770

Sunday Stuffs: Eddels is now Chibugan, a Noble Chef revisit, and a couple of “stories”.

Just couple of things for Sunday……

Eddels is now Chibugan:

As reported by FOY Toshiko. Eddels is now Chibugan.

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I was in the area this afternoon so I dropped by. Chibugan is indeed open, but looked to only have four or five offerings. I had already eaten lunch, so I'll grab a bite on another day.

Thanks for letting me know Toshiko!

Chibugan (In Vinh Hung Supermarket)

10550 Camino Ruiz
San Diego, CA 92126

A COMC post on Noble Chef:

Last week, another FOY (Friend of Yoso), RossC sent me a really nice email. Ross has relocated, and said, "I now have a much greater appreciation for what San Diego had to offer". One of the places Ross mentioned was Noble Chef. I realize that I've done a few posts on Noble Chef, but I had these photos saved for no reason in particular, so I thought I'd just do a quick COMC (Clearing Out the Memory Card) post. This one's for you Ross! The "old" Noble Chef was one of our favorite haunts for cheap eats. The older Gentleman who worked the wok sure knew his stuff. The Shrimp with XO Sauce Fried Rice was great, "wok hey", great garlic (and I'm sure MSG) flavor, a touch of spice! When the folks finally retired and the new owners took over there was something missing. The "breath of the wok" was gone, and the food seemed underseasoned. That's not to say that the food was terrible, it was still decent, but having eaten there quite frequently, I could tell the difference. On the other hand there were some changes that were for the good. The place had been freshened up, the prices were still reasonable, and I detected even more of the "good stuff" (i.e. shrimp) in some of the dishes. So now, every 8-9 months, I drop by to see how the food is progressing at Noble Chef.

MoreNoble02 I will always order the Shrimp with XO Sauce Fried Rice. For me this was the dish that put Noble Chef on our list. There was a ton of shrimp, at least ten in the fried rice. It was still priced at $7.55, very reasonable.

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It still lacked the wok hey, spice, and garlicky goodness of the version the old Noble Chef version. It was not bad, just not as good.

I also ordered the Shrimp with Tomato Sauce Rice, which had gone up a buck to $7.55, but you really couldn't complain based on the portion size.

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MoreNoble03 Now this was much improved over the version I had on my previous visit. It could've been that the tomatoes were of better quality since there was a nice "tang" to the sauce. I counted a whopping eleven shrimp in the dish. The shrimp were cooked with much more finesse, they were tender, not overcooked. The sauce was nice and velvety, and I even detected a bit of spice….nice…..

I hope the things just keep getting better. I'll keep checking back every couple of months. I'm waiting for the Shrimp with XO Sauce Fried Rice to get back to where it once was.

The Noble Chef
6159 Balboa Avenue
San Diego, CA 92111
(858)278-8688

Thanks again for the wonderful email Ross!

A North Park Produce Story:

A couple of weeks ago, I dropped by North Park Produce to pick-up some Feta for the Missus. As I was being rung up at the register, I noticed that the previous customer had forgotten his milk. I handed the young lady some cash, and told her to hold my change while I go and find the gentleman who forgot his milk. I jogged out the back of NPP, and saw the gentleman turning the corner on El Cajon Boulevard. I yelled out, "hey, you forgot your milk"! At the sound of my voice the guy started off at a sprint down ECB!!! Caught up in the moment, I, for some reason gave chase! A few things you need to know…..the gentleman was almost a foot taller, and maybe twice the size of me. He was bigger than Captain Jack. So picture a little Asian Guy chasing a six foot five inch monster down El Cajon Boulevard waving a carton of milk……. Dude must be in some beeeeg trouble! About a block and a half later, dude suddenly realizes that I'm just trying to get him his milk. He stops. Totally out of breath, huffing and puffing, I hand him the carton of milk. Not only is he twice my size, but he is obviously in better shape as well………. Sweating profusely, I walked back to NPP to retrieve my feta cheese and my change…….

A Bronx Pizza Story:

SundayBronx The fellas at work love Bronx Pizza. So one day, we decided to order a whole pie from Bronx. The place is quite close to work, so I volunteer to call in the order and pick up the pie.

I place the order on the phone, and the final part of the conversation goes like this:

BG (Bronx Guy): Name?
Me: Kirk
BG: David??
Me: No Kirk, K-I-R-K…
BG: It'll be under David…
"click" He hangs up the phone……..

David? What the heck? Did I just walk into a Seinfeld episode??? So I go to pick-up the pie….

BG: Name?
Me: It'll be under Kirk or David…
BG: No pie for Kirk or David….what didya order?
Me: A Porko
BG: We got a porko here for xxx (I can't remember the name)…..

Now I know all about the Bronx attitude, and most of the time it's all fun and games, but come on. But I decide that two can play the same game, so as I leave:

Me: Hey
BG: What
Me: No wonder Lefty's and Luigi's is kicking your …!

Guess I won't be going back to Bronx for a while, huh?

I hope everyone had a great weekend!

Roadtrip: A return to Hunan Chilli King – San Gabriel (Los Angeles)

I rarely post on revisits of places in the San Gabriel Valley. But I hope you don't mind if I do a return visit.

It seems that the Missus has been taken by Hunan food in the SGV. On a recent visit, we decided to return to Hunan Chilli King. On the last trip, I had been almost blown to bits by one of the dishes, but apparently I hadn'tlearned my lesson. The Missus had wanted to try several items She had noticed previously, and I had one particular preparation in mind as well.

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In actuallity, our strategy was to hit another restaurant first, with food a bit milder, than grab a bite at Chilli King on our way home. Unfortunately, the restaurant we had in mind had changed their hours, and wasn't open when we arrived. So it was off to HCK.

RHunanChK03This time, the Missus decided to not even bother with the menus, but to order items listed on the colorful strips of paper lining the entire restaurant. One thing I did notice; many of the items lining the walls, are also in the menu. Perhaps it's their way of letting us know everything is good? One thing about me and very spicy food….I will sweat profusely, to the point of embarrassment, and sometimes concern from the staff of a restaurant. But I almost never have lingering "complaints" from my GI system. The Missus, on the other hand, can tolerate incredibly spicy food with nary a drop of perspiration on Her brow. She has however, known the feeling of, how should I put it….. magma making it's way to the ocean…..

This being fairly early in the morning for spicy eats, I thought some Beijing style yogurt would be a nice proactive step.

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It does help that I love this stuff…..

After having the Pork Intestines with Pickled Green Beans and Chilies at Xiang Wei Lou, I wondered how the dish would fare at Hunan Chilli King since we thought the pickled green beans and the chilies were much better here. So of course, we had to have the Suan Do Jiao Chao Fei Chang:

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RHunanChK05 Having not learned our lesson on our previous visit, we ordered this "Big Spicy". For some reason, this didn't seem quite as hot. Notice, there weren't as many chili seeds this time around. That's not say this was very tame….

Just as before, we love the way HCK prepares their pickles. The intestines were fine, but I thought that Xiang Wei Lou does a better job of it. To me, the pork intestines from Xiang Wei Lou, cooked with these pickles and chilies, by the folks here would be the perfect combination.

The Missus saw a Dry-Cooked "small fish" dish posted on the wall, and we decided to order it.

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RHunanChK07 A bowl of semi-dried fish that had been dry-fried with dried chilies, black beans, and leeks hit the table. The fish were chewy, and you ate them head and all. In spite of looks this wasn't a particularly piquant offering. It was very fishy and unpleasant…..

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This coming from a guy who has had PrahokPadek, and various other fermented fish and shrimp ingredients. Of course, for us there's a distinct difference between savory fermentation and rotten…. at least to us.

The Missus was intrigued by a dish that was simply called "steamed eggplant" on one of the placards. Inquiring didn't provide any clarification or demystification of what that dish was. At $10.99, it was pretty pricey as vegetables go in the SGV. For comparison sake, a whole steamed fish at Hunan Chilli King is priced at $7.99!  In spite of the generic description, the Missus was assured that the dish was very good. So we ordered it…….

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RHunanChK10What arrived was a surprise. First was the preparation, which was almost exactly like Hunan Steamed Fish. Secondly, we counted a total of five whole eggplants were used to make this dish. The texture of most of the eggplant was excellent; I believe it was "oil blanched" before steaming. The flesh was creamy and wonderful, though we had to remove the skin because it was hard and basically inedible. The sauce was that wonderful soy sauce-oil concoction with fermented black beans and some chilies, when combined with rice is like crack! This was the best dish of the day.

We left with a ton of leftovers……. With our next stop on our minds.

Hunan Chilli King
524 East Valley Boulevard
San Gabriel, CA 91776

Roadtrip: Xiang Wei Lou – San Gabriel (Los Angeles)

**** Xiang Wei Lou has closed

To complete the Hunan "trifecta" the Missus and I decided to check out Xiang Wei Lou, located on Valley in the same strip mall as Papa Walk and the San Gabriel Hilton. We had saved this one for last because it seemed to be the nicest looking, and strangely enough had an "A" LA DOH rating, a rarity in the San Gabriel Valley.

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XiangWeiLou03 The place was pretty dark when walked in, until the next set of customers arrived. They immediately took over the place, telling the mellow, but indifferent young lady to turn down the A/C, turn up the lights, I want this…..I want that.

Meanwhile the Missus and I were coming up with a gameplan, and placed our order. As usual, we started with a Hunan standard, the Combination Smoked Meat (Preserved Delicacy Combination – $10.99):

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This was a disappointment, the meats were hard and the smoke flavor was lacking. Compared to Hunan Seafood(which was the best) and Hunan Chilli King, this was the worst so far.

The Missus had been dreaming about Hunan Pickled Green Beans since our visit to Hunan Chilli King. She had even gotten Her Dad involved, as he has been attempting to make this from memory. According to my FIL, the traditional way of making this is a dying art in Hunan. Looking over the menu, I wondered what type of meat, or cut (other than something smoked), would stand up to the briney pickles, and the chilies. We decided on Pork Intestines, and ordered the Intestines with Sour String Beans($8.99):

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This was probably the most well prepared pork intestine I've had. The intestine was sliced lengthwise and cleaned, so there was no "bonus" material. So I wouldn't be tasting what was Mr or Mrs Piggy's last, or second to last meal. It was also cooked well, yielding at first bite, slowly gaining a bit of chewiness. The earthy, dark flavor went well with the pickled green beans and the salted chilies. The green beans weren't done very well, they didn't have the semi-crunchy texture of well cured green beans, and weren't as briney and sour as the version at Hunan Chilli King. another big issue was that even though we ordered this "Big Spicy", this was quite mild. I didn't even break a sweat, a real rarity when it comes to Hunan or Sichuan food. Still, this was some goos "guts".

XiangWeiLou02 The last item we decided on, well, we just had to order since there was a huge photo of it on the back wall. Also, when considering San Diego prices, $8.99 is dirt cheap for a whole steamed fish.

We ordered the Whole Steam Fish, Big Spicy, and yes, it was just $8.99.

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XiangWeiLou08 At heart this is a typical Chinese Steamed whole fish, with a kicker. It is topped with a layer of chilies. The fish was fresh, though like I've mentioned before, I'm not a big fan of fresh water fish. In this case it was slightly muddy in flavor. The Missus thought this was wonderful, as it was steamed very well, the flesh firm and moist, and not mushy. I was happy with pouring the sauce over four bowls of rice……… Oh, and in spite of looks, I didn't think this was particularly spicy……. But is was only $8.99!

While on the subject of spicy; the family that was bossing the young lady around spoke to her in Mandarin, but when talking among themselves in another dialect. The Missus said that they were from Hunan, but couldn't understand why they ordered everything "small spicy". What was even more funny was the coughing, choking, and various unappetizing noises coming from their table as they ate their "small spicy" food.

07172009 032 If anything, the meal here had me wondering what the intestine would be like at Hunan Chilli Kingand the fish had the Missus wanting to come back and get the Fish Head…and then there the Spicy Pork Feet Skin…… And oh, did you know that there's a Hunan Restaurant opening across the street from Chilli King????

Xiang Wei Lou
227 W Valley Blvd
San Gabriel, CA 91776 

Niu Rou Mania – Hunan Chinese Restaurant

**** Hunan Chinese Restaurant has closed

Unfortunately, this is one of those PWTSDS (sounds like putdz) posts……. "Posts Where the Sun Don't Shine". I had thought about just deleting the photos, but I don't get up to North County very much, and I'm not sure I'd want to have the NRM here again. So my apologies in advance……

Somewhere, in the comments section of one of my posts, someone mentioned that Hunan Restaurant in Rancho Bernardo made Niu Rou Mein. Being a big fan of NRM, I made sure to drop by when I was in the area.

Hunan01  

Hunan02To be perfectly clear, there ain't anything "Hunan" about Hunan Restaurant except for the name. I had a meal here years ago, and it was totally "ABCDE" (American Born Chinese Dining Establishment). But looking at the menu board, I noticed a section that had various noodle and rice dishes which looked promising.

So I entered the restaurant, and stepped into an alien green world!

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I just found the greenish hue somewhat unappetizing, but I've never let stuff like that stop me before. Since I like to keep a low profile, and never use a flash, the lighting made taking photos somewhat difficult. For a while I tried timing my photos to the opening of the front door which would let light into the place. But of course, the wait between photos would have been pretty long!

The women here are pretty nice, and I simply ordered the Niu Rou Mian, which got the lady speaking to me in Mandarin, during my entire meal……. I don't think she ever figured out that I really didn't understand what she was saying!

Soon enough the NRM ($6.95) arrived.

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Hunan07When my bowl arrived, all I could think was "what the Pho?" That's what the broth looked like, Pho….. Though scalding hot, it was insipid, there was just a trace of five spice flavor, and it lacked any of the richness or the beefiness of Niu Rou Mein. What the heck? The noodles were the packaged stuff I buy from 99 Ranch Market, and was cooked well. What was impressive about this bowl was the amount of meat in this bowl. There was just as much meat under the noodles as was on the top!

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The meat was tender, but lacking in flavor. I think I just found a NRM for those folks who think Bun Bo Hue is all about the meat, and should taste like "spicy Pho".

 Hunan08An acquaintance of mine loves the ABCDE food from Hunan, so those dishes might be good. I thought the service was very nice and friendly. But I cna get Americanized Chinese in dozens of places less than 25 miles from home.

Hunan Chinese Restaurant
16719 Bernardo Center Dr
San Diego, CA 92128

Open Daily: 11am – 9pm

Road Trip: Sea Harbour in Rosemead

Not a Kirk or a Cathy Road Trip - This post is part of an ed (from Yuma) Road Trip. Buckle up and enjoy!

It was time for Tina and I to head off on vacation, ultimately arriving in Monterey for a few days.  San Gabriel Valley, fortunately for us, is about midway between Yuma and the cool breezes of the Monterey Peninsula.  We arrived in Rosemead armed with some recommendations from Kirk for Chinese seafood.  At the top of the list was Sea Harbour:IMG_1763 (sorry about the drive-by shot)

When we arrived hungry for our 6 p.m. reservation, the stylish restaurant was largely empty, though its numerous fish tanks looked ready for customers:IMG_1543 The first item to hit our table was a complementary seaweed salad.  It was nothing spectacular, but it was a nice and refreshing way to begin the meal:IMG_1539 When we made reservations, I had inquired about corkage fees and was told that I was welcome to bring my own wine for the modest charge of $10. I was happy to learn this as we had come over from Yuma with a special bottle in our ice chest. After I handed the Chalone Chardonnay to a server, it soon reappeared with adequate stemware and a chilled ice bucket. The servers kept our glasses properly filled throughout the meal:IMG_1542 Unusually for a Chinese restaurant, our meal was served European style, in courses.  First arrived two abalones ($15 each) taken fresh from a tank.  Each was prepared in a different style.  This one was covered in a slightly sweet soy-based sauce, somewhat resembling a teriyaki sauce:IMG_1548The shellfish was very tender and flavorful.  We cut it into small enough pieces so that we could savor each bite; after all, it had been years since I had eaten cooked fresh abalone, and I wanted the maximum number of bites for $15.

As good as that abalone was, both Tina and I preferred the second one:IMG_1551 Here the saucing was much simpler — basically just garlic.  But that was really all the abalone needed in my mind.  It was really good!

The next course represented the only slight glitch in the entire meal.  I was hoping for some unusual vegetable, but didn't see anything especially exotic on the menu, so I asked if there was some special vegetable that evening.  The waiter said that, indeed, they had a fresh seasonal vegetable, so I ordered it.  Like a salad course, it arrived before the major entrée:IMG_1552 There was nothing wrong with this order of Chinese greens ($12) at all.  As the waiter said, they were incredibly fresh and arrived steaming at the table.  The simple preparation showed off the their goodness and impeccable freshness.  The only glitch for us was that we had had this very same choi sum at least twice in the previous two weeks at Yummy Yummy.  While the vegetable in Yuma was not as fresh as it was at Sea Harbour, I had had hopes for some thing more different.

Our main dish that evening was steamed whole red cod, taken from a tank and as fresh as could be ($36 for about 1  1/2 lbs):IMG_1555 This was a beautiful fish, steamed to perfection and presented with a light tangy soy based sauce.  Unfortunately, my picture does not do justice to this outstanding entrée because the server was waiting next to our table for me to take pictures before he removed the spine and attached bones, and I felt bad for keeping him standing there.

Now is as good a time as any to mention the wonderful and attentive service.  Some online postings at various websites indicate that the service at Sea Harbour is perfunctory and almost rude.  Perhaps that is the case when the restaurant is serving its popular dim sum, but Tina and I were treated exceptionally well throughout our meal.  While thoroughly professional, all of the servers were friendly. They answered my questions with a smile and generally provided helpful advice.  I can't recall better service at another Chinese restaurant.

Now back to the food. I just want to share one close up of the fish flesh on my plate:IMG_1557 The taste of the red cod was every bit as moist and tender as it looks in this photo.  Each mildly fishy bite melted away on the tongue. It was so good that we consumed everything — cheeks, brains, eyeballs, skin, and anything else we could scrape off the bones.

We were then each brought a complementary bean porridge, which was lightly sweet and slightly savory:IMG_1560 I thought that was going to be the conclusion of the meal, but Tina and I both were then given these two desserts:IMG_1561 I have no expertise whatsoever with Chinese desserts, but these did taste good and provided an attractive ending for the meal.  Thanks Kirk for the rec! The place is definitely yo-so delicioso!

Sea Harbour, 3939 Rosemead Blvd, Rosemead, 626-288-3939

ABCDE – Panda Country Restaurant

**** Panda Country has closed

About two years ago, I remember sitting and having some sushi. During the meal, I struck up a conversation with a quiet, somewhat serious, intense young man. And of course, eventually the subject of food came up. As we spoke about Chinese Restaurants in San Diego, the young man asked me, "do you know the best Chinese Restaurant in San Diego?" Now I had this guy pegged as an "ABC" (American Born Chinese), so I immediately offered up places like China Max, Jasmine, Emerald, and Golden City. The young man gave me this strange look, and I suddenly felt like a spaz who meant to scratch his eye but ended up with his finger halfway up his nostril….. "It's Panda Country." Is what he said with total conviction. Not placing the restaurant, and wondering if I've somehow overlooked some hidden treasure, I replied "Panda Country?" "Yes Panda Country, and I should know….." And then the inevitable happened, he uttered the phrase that always makes me shake my head, "because I'm Chinese." And to up the ante, he followed up with, "and I'm from New York, and WE know good food.…" Ah yes, the double whammy, "genetics and geography", I suddenly felt like I was reading a review from that "four lettered" website, full of "I know good xxxx food because I'm (fill in the blank race)." And yet, I still couldn't place Panda Country, until I was making the left turn on Genesee at Clairemont Mesa Boulevard……geeez, Panda Country, I've passed this place thousands of times. The place looked like a typical "ABCDE" ("American Born Chinese Dining Establishment" – pronounced Ab-cee-dee).

PandaCountry00Nothing against ABCDEs, in fact I was raised eating at places called Kwok's Chop Suey, McCully Chop Suey, Hee-Hing, and Kapahulu Chop Suey. Eating stuff like Cold Ginger Chicken, Oyster Sauce Chicken, Sweet Sour Spareribs, Almond Duck, Kau Yuk, and Lemon Chicken. Not having much in the way of money growing up, meals from these places marked special occasions. And though I'm not a fan of most of what is served in San Diego at places with names like, "New Eastern Panda Dragon Pearl Garden House Cuisine", many ABCDEs serve good solid fare. And yet, for some reason I couldn't bring myself to enter through the doors of Panda Country for two years.

PandaCountry01 

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And of course, I waited until an evening when the Missus was tied up, and not available for dinner.

The fairly dark interior of Panda Country looked like your typical time-warp 70's Chinese Restaurant. The theme was….well Panda's of course.

PandaCountry02 

While waiting for my order, watching folks come in to eat, and pick-up take-out orders, I could make out a typical customer profile. I don't want to sound to age discriminant so I'm only going to say, that there was a lot of blue hair, walkers, and canes. On the good side, I felt like a spring chicken!

And though the carvings looked more like some exotic rodent than a Panda, I really dug the chairs!!!

PandaCountry04 

While waiting for my order, between serving and seating customers, I had a nice conversation with the Server who is from "Canton"……no not Ohio, but the city now known as Guangzhou. He was really nice and friendly. I was told that Panda Country has been around longer than he has, which probably put the place at around thirty years or so. When I asked where the Chef was from, I was told Hong Kong. I quickly brightened and said, "the chef trained in Hong Kong?" To which he replied; "no, the chef is from Hong Kong……" Still I really liked this Guy, and the place was fairly hopping when I left.

Somehow I had remembered what I was told to order here, and even ordered a few more for good measure.

Being a big chicken wing fan, I started with some Fried Chicken Wings ($5.50):

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These weren't bad if a bit short on seasoning. Not something I'd order again, but not bad.

One of the items recommended was the "Crispy Beef" ($10.25):

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PandaCountry07 The was more like "candied beef", man was it sweet. It truly hurt my teeth. I was warned about this dish being spicy, which it wasn't. I'm sure if you had eaten this at the restaurant, there would have been a bit more "crunch" to it. The beef was one the chewy side, which is perfectly fine with dishes like this.

The House Special Chicken ($10.25):

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If I could rename this dish, I'd call it "General Tso Slept Here" as it resembled versions of the dish known as General Tso's Chicken. In case you're wondering about the story of that dish, you can read Fuchsia Dunlop's version either in her Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook, or read Her article from NPR here. The batter on this was pretty good, it held it's crunch on the trip home. The flavor, for such a robust looking dish was bland.

I also ordered the Shrimp in Black Bean Sauce ($11.95):

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PandaCountry10This was the best dish overall. I could have done without the frozen peas, and prefer green bell peppers and onions to the zucchini, but this was not bad. Good amount of shrimp, a tad over-cooked, but acceptable. Decent amount of black bean and garlic as well. I think that Mandarin Canton and Mandarin make better versions of this dish. The texture of the sauce wasn't overly gluey and gooey which was also a plus.

OK, before I get a ton of poison pen letters telling me I'm a Chinese Food snob, blah, blah, blah…..do me a favor, and think of something they do really well at Panda Country. And maybe, just maybe, I'll pay them another visit.PandaCountry11 Maybe not….

Panda Country
4455 Clairemont Mesa Blvd
San Diego, CA 92117

And the next time the best reason someone can come up with regarding food is their race……think twice.

Roadtrip: 818 Shao Kao aka JN Kitchen – San Gabriel (Los Angeles)

**** JN Kitchen has closed

We've passed the JN Kitchen sign on Valley Boulevard many times during our roadtrips to the San Gabriel area. A while back, we noticed that the place had changed hands, and though the JN Kitchen English name had been kept. In Chinese it said 818 "Shao Kao" which means BBQ. We were finally able to pay a visit on a recent trip.

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The shop itself is tiny, with just a couple of two-tops, and one modified four-top (two tables placed together). The walls are lines with the usual paper strips of various offerings written in Chinese. The place screams "snack shop", and with good reason, we found that the folks running things in this little shop are from Tianjin, a region which is known for their snacks.JNKitchen02  

The menu is a small two sided laminated placard.

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The Missus and I immediately saw items we were interested in, though the Missus had to do all the ordering since the nice lady waiting on us did not speak a word of English.

I knew I wanted the Guo Ba Soup ($3.50). I loved the version at the now gone Mei Jia Deli, even though we were dissuaded from ordering it.

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For $3.50 we didn't expect much, but this was a pretty hefty bowl of "gravy" topped with slices of "Guo Ba" in this case the crepe portion of the Jiang Bing made from a batter using mung bean and millet flour. For some reason, I really enjoy the sour, fermented flavor of the thick, sickly pinkish-brown broth. This version wasn't as salty as what I've had before which made it even more enjoyable.

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It is simple, but substantial fare, as the Guo Ba is pretty heavy and will stay with you for a while. Still, I could have this for breakfast quite often. The thick broth was extremely hot, and stayed that way until we finished the bowl.

Of course the Missus, still full of nostalgia, had to order the Jian Bing Guo Zi. This was a bit of an odd looking Jian Bing:

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Instead of being round, and looking sort of burrito like, this was flat.

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JNKitchen09The odd shape was because of the fried cracker like item which occupied the middle of the Jian Bing, instead of the usual You Tiao (fried cruller). To the Missus, in search of the Jian Bing of Her youth, this made this all wrong.

As did the strange spiciness from the chili paste in the Jian Bing. This was just not very good.

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Of course any meal here would not be complete without a few items on sticks. The Missus ordered the Chou Dofu (stinky-tofu – $1.20):

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I was downwind when this hit the table, and it was fairly smelly, perhaps not in the "musty, rotten sewage like smell that comes from a dark, damp place" league of Dynasty Plaza or Shau Mei, but it was pretty stink. The Missus, upwind when the plate hit the table wasn't impressed, until a wind shift got Her attention. She declared this ok, but lamented the use of sweet chili sauce instead of the appropriate sauce.

We also ordered a few skewers, 2 Lamb ($1.20/ea), 1 lamb chop ($2.50), and 1 Chicken Gizzard ($1.20):

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JNKitchen12 These weren't really that good, more salty than anything. The meat was tough. I thought the gizzards, and the lamb chop, which had a freezer burnt taste, and was so tough that I felt I was chewing on freezer-burnt flavor gum, was the worst. Extra cumin was provided on the side but was of little or no help.

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The lamb flavor was also very mild. Not very good in our opinion.

Still, I'll gladly come back for the Guo Ba Cai…….

818 Shaokao/ JN Kitchen
818 E Valley Boulevard
San Gabriel, CA 91776
Open 10am – 10pm Daily

Road Trip: Hunan Chilli King – San Gabriel (Los Angeles)

During our most recent road trip, after noshing at Qing Dao Bread Food, we decided to give the Missus' Dad's cuisine equal time. My FIL hails from Hunan, which explains the Missus's ability to eat some pretty spicy stuff. My MIL is also able to handle some pretty hot stuff, "tolerance by association" I guess. Our first thought was to drop by Tianjin Bistro, but on a whim the Missus decided that we should have lunch here.

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HunanChilliKing02 The first thing I noticed when we entered was that a good number of the folks eating were fanning their mouths, an ominous sign, as was all the hissing noises of the folks sucking air through their teeth. One of the Servers is boisterous and outgoing, the other, quiet but very kind. The walls of the restaurant is lined with the ubiquitous colored strips of paper with the various specialties of the house written on them.

As we sat, a little dish of boiled peanuts, and some very briney Hunan Pao Cai (pickled vegetables) arrived at the table.

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The pickles lived up to our standard of Hunan cuisine with unabashedly bold flavors. So we were a bit surprised at the very mild millet porridge that arrived at the same time. Having previous experience, we knew that this would provide the perfect prophylaxis for our upcoming meal.

So what to order? Chilli King is known for the Hunan Steamed Fish Head, but you need to order that in advance. So we just went with what caught our fancy.

The first item we went with Steamed Preserved Meat (La Wei He Zheng – $8.99), a classic steamed mixed smoke meat dish.

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For me this was not smokey enough in flavor, way too salty, and the meat was mushy, and falling apart. It was nowhere close to the version at Hunan Seafood. The Missus enjoyed it though.

Of course as soon as I saw it, I had to have the Sauteed Lamb (Xiao Chao Yang Rou - $8.99):

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The lamb was nice and gamey, the spice was pretty much on my "high side". I thought the ratio of lamb to cilantro was excellent. Do you noticed something? If you've ever noticed, at most Sichuan restaurants, all the chilies are deseeded. Notice all the chili seeds in this dish…..it kind of gives you a hint of the spice level.

Last up, comes the most interesting, and painful dish of the day. The Missus saw a dish on one of the papers flying over our head.

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When the Missus ordered it "Big Spicy", the Server, obviously knowing by Her accent that the Missus wasn't from Hunan, told Her, "our medium spicy, is hotter than most BIG spicy". But of course we stuck to our guns. What had we ordered? Suan Do Jiao Chao La Ya ($8.99). This was basically Smoked Duck stir fried with Hunan Pickled Green Beans and Chilies. As she walked away, the woman turned and glanced at me with an "okay, it's your funeral" look.

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For me this is an excellent example of the un-apologetically spicy Hunan dish. The smoked duck was nicely flavored. There were two types of chilies in this dish, salt-preserved chilies, and smaller red chilies. Again, check out all the chili seeds! The sour and briney pickled green beans actually heightened the burning sensation. I was okay after two bites….but after three I started sweating, not a big deal, that happens all the time. By my fourth and fifth bites my scalp was tingling, and my mouth felt like an open wound. And then I did it, I drank a cup of hot tea. It was like I poured alcohol on an open wound! Lesson learned, I made sure my tea had cooled off before consuming it. Strange thing was, I was caught up in a heat addiction death spiral. I was snapped out of this by the nice Server, who asked me if I was okay….which sounded strangely like the phrase "do you need CPR"……. As usual we had leftovers. That same evening, I heated this dish in the microwave. When I opened the door, the fumes hit me square in the face and I felt like I had been maced! It was even more spicy! I could only manage two bites, and for some reason my ears started ringing. The next day, I didn't even bother trying to eat the leftovers (loved the lamb though), I knew it would be too much for me. The Missus enjoyed it to the last…….

HunanChilliKing09Of course, on every trip to the SGV, we have a story, so here's the one for this place. We were seated right next to the kitchen door and the counter. While we were eating a short gentleman walked into the restaurant. He was just one of those folks who just kinda makes you laugh. Short, square, animated expression, with his pants pulled up to his nipple line….. He came in and ordered one dish, and tried to pay with a credit card, and was told that there was a minimum purchase of $20 with a credit card. Suddenly, you could make out a few "ticks" and twitches. Faced with this, the man tried to persuade the ladies to let him use his credit card. The Missus kept giggling as he tried different strategies to get his way, trying among other things, flattery ("this is my wife's favorite place"), but was blocked on every end. Finally, he went with his last ace-in-the-hole, the pseudo-guilt trip, "We come here all the time. We live in Irvine, and today I came all the way here to pick up lunch for my wife!" This of course was met with the check-mate "so you come here all the time? Than why would you come all the way from Irvine with only six dollars?" Which of course, instantly insinuated laziness (couldn't go to the ATM), and stupidity (you eat here all the time, and you don't know that there's a $20 minimum for credit cards). Out-trumped the gentleman ordered another dish. Which started up the next discussion. He had ordered on dish "BIG SPICY", and the other "no spicy". Turns out that his wife loves spicy food, but he is unable to tolerate spice! The Missus was cracking up at the way he described the situation……. She told me this is more funny than those Chinese comedies She watches!

As we left the restaurant, I passed a young lady fanning her mouth and inhaling with a hissing noise. I gave her a knowing smile…….I felt (literally) both her pain…and pleasure.

Hunan Chilli King
524 East Valley Boulevard
San Gabriel, CA 91776

I definitely wanted something a bit soothing after this meal………