Category: Cooking

So what to do after pickled celery? Which the Missus loved so much….well, I had to actually go to the market and buy more celery….just to buy celery, something quite rare in our household. So now, the "hearts are for braising", the stalks are for pickling. Then the Missus said the magic words, "can you make some pickled eggs". It seems after all these years, it has come to fruition, I love pickled eggs, I mean, really enjoy them. The Missus, on the other hand hasn't been too keen on them. But now, I was all in. And this recipe turned out well. This time around, I went ahead and bought some pickling spice. The Missus really enjoyed the flavor that clove gave to the pickle….so I'll probably be revising my other pickle recipes soon. You can always add beet juice if you want those nicely colored pickled eggs.

The eggs were delish; and a dozen doesn't go very far in this household.

Pickled Eggs:

1 dozen boiled eggs
4 cups distilled white vinegar
2 Tb Kosher Salt
2 Tb Pickling Spice
1/3 Cup White Sugar
1 Tsp Mustard Seed
1 Small Vidalia Onion – quartered – but not cut all the way through (optional)
2 Chilies (optional – I used some Chili de Arbol from the yard)
2 cloves of garlic (optional)

– Wash and sterilize 2 ball jars
– Combine Vinegar, salt, and sugar is a pot bring to a boil and then remove from heat.
– When cooled add Pickling Spice and mustard seed
– Place 1/2 of optional items into each jar
– Add 6 eggs into each jar
– Top off with pickling liquid and spices
– Seal, cover, and refrigerate . Leave for 2 days before eating.

For some reason, it really went nicely with that nice tomato/mozzarella salad with basil…..some Maldon Sea Salt and a drizzle of Arbequina Olive Oil  and it made for a nice light dinner on one of the recent hot days we've had.

Here's something you might not know about the Missus…She hates celery. Now, I can get away with using the leaves in a stir-fry; but for some reason She just doesn't care for the flavor of celery. She does however, really enjoy pickled items. So last weekend, the Missus wanted some white beans and ham hock….now I use the "Cajun Holy Trinity" as the mirepoix for that dish. So what to do with the leftover celery? The Missus had just asked me why I hadn't made my easy pickled onions in a while (because I've been busy at work and basically lazy on the weekends). So, I just used that base recipe, added some sugar, more salt, and some mustard seed. Also had half a Vidalia onion and of course some chilies from the garden. I did peel and do a quick blanch of the celery.

 Well, turns out the Missus loves these….and I like them as a nice addition to a salad.

Slight spicy, with a touch of sweetness and salt, this is pretty darn good.

Easy Pickled Celery:

1 cup distilled white vinegar
1 cup water
2 tb sugar
2 tb Kosher salt
1 tsp black peppercorns
1/2 tsp mustard seed
1/2 tsp crushed red pepper

peeled celery stalks cut to size
2-3 chili peppers (optional – I used some Chili de Arbol from the yard)
2 cloves of garlic
1/2 small Vidalia Onion – quartered – but not cut all the way through (optional)

– Wash and sterilize a ball jar
– Combine vinegar, water, sugar, salt, red pepper, and peppercorns in a pot, bring to a boil and then remove from heat.
– Add peeled celery to pot to lightly blanch
– Place celery (and whatever else) in jar, add celery seeds, top off with pickling liquid
– Seal, cover, and refrigerate . Leave for 2 days before eating.

Great thing about living in San Diego, you can grill just about any month of the year. I've been told that there's been a dearth of cooking/recipe type posts over the last two years….I guess I've been kinda lax in posting these. Though I've posted on most of the dishes I make regularly over the last 10-11 years. Anyway, here's a wrinkle on the recipe I use for Teri Beef and my Local Kine Teriyaki Chicken.

When putting together these type of recipes, I think in terms of ratios.

Anyway, I've started buying a pound or so of sliced Berkshire pork shoulder from Nijiya on "Meat Day" along with a pound and a half of boned chicken legs. I then do a grill session and make Kelaguen with the chicken legs (I know, I know….recipe one of these days) and Teri-Pork with the sliced pork. I also grill whatever the heck I can find….even cabbage.

Yes….cabbage. Since I grill over hardwood charcoal, and even throw some soaked oak/hickory chips on the coals, everything tends to have a nice touch of smokiness. The Missus loves the pork and the tofu….and even the cabbage! I make little Bi Bim Bap type bowls for Her to take to work, topping the whole mess with a couple of fried eggs.

Anyway, back to the pork. While this is basically the same as my other "Local Kine Barbecue" recipes, there's a slight twist. I use sliced onions and gochujang…..I buy stuff made from soybeans…..don't buy the stuff that lists wheat as ingredient number 1. Another key point….this can get messy, removing the sliced onions before grilling and all. But you can use cheesecloth to bundle up the onions. I also found that pork can handle a bit more sweetness and that granulated garlic(good quality stuff) works better than minced/grated garlic with this recipe. Lastly, like grilling the teri beef, if you're not careful, stuff will fall between the grill grates. As I've mentioned many times before, I use Aloha, Yamasa, or Tamari for these type of recipes.

Teriyaki (Barbecue) Pork:
1 – 1 1/2 pounds thinly sliced pork (shoulder or loin – it should have a good fat content)

1 cup Aloha or Yamasa Soy Sauce
1/3 cup dark brown sugar
1/3 cup agave syrup
2/3 cup mirin
2 tb granulated garlic
1 tb ginger juice
1 tb Gochujang
1 tb Sake
1/2 medium onion sliced thin

Optional Stuffs:
1/4 c minced cilantro
1 tb good quality sesame oil
Ground cayenne or sliced chilies to taste

– Combine marinade ingredients
– Separate slices of pork and place in gallon ziploc bag
– Pour marinade into the bag
– Gently mix
– Marinade 4-6 hours, no more than 10.
– If grilling remove 1/2 cup of marinade and heat until boiling. Remove from heat. Use to baste meat.
– Wipe off onions and cilantro if using.
– Cook…….

Remember I mentioned that the Missus requested a restock of the duck confit and a cassoulet for New Year? So, well that actually happened.

The request kind of threw me at first…..after all duck confit is a two day process for me. But as usual, in the end the Missus got what She wanted. Not a traditional "cassoulet" by any means as I portioned things out and heated them in the a gratin pan…..but that just meant more crunchy toppings. And on the second day, I added some collard greens to the whole thing (photo above),  I also posted a photo to Flickr. Which leads to this post. I'd kinda gotten distracted making this dish and hadn't taken a whole lot of photos, so was just going to wait until I did this again. But "Hao" who comments every once in a while saw a photo of this on my Flickr page and asked if I'd do a post. So here you go….not quite, but kind of cassoulet.

A couple of items to note, I had just completed making a batch of my duck confit, so I had duck fat at hand as well as confit duck legs. Second, I've seen recipes that call for clove, but since I cure my duck legs with Chinese 5 spice, I figured that there's be that light hint of clove-cinnamon flavor in the background. On New Year's eve, I went out looking for beans. I'd seen Flageolet beans at Whole Foods, but when I got there it was no Bueno. So I ended up with organic Navy Beans, which worked out well. New Year's day saw me running around looking for the rest of the ingredients and I just improvised when needed. Everything was done in between getting called into work…..

So while this might just set you over the edge….remember, it's "kind of cassoulet". After all, I tend to think of cassoulet as being a rustic, peasant dish, something that uses preserved meats and beans. And no, I didn't use a Cassole either.

You might look at the steps and think this is difficult, but it's not….in spite of all the steps, which are just simple strategies and techniques to get the most of what I had, this wasn't too hard. There's a good amount of idle time as well.

Kind of Cassoulet

1 – 1 1/4 pounds Flageolet or Navy Beans

1/2 pound pork belly
1/4 pound pancetta
4 confit duck legs
1 pound pork sausage – preferably Garlic sausage, but what the heck, I used mild Italian Sausage. If you've got an inside line on Toulouse style garlic sausage in San Diego – let me know!

2 medium onions
1 whole bulb of garlic
4 cloves of garlic
6 sprigs fresh thyme
6 bay leaves
1 Tb whole peppercorn

4-5 Tb duck fat
1 quart stock (the good stuff, preferable made at home – veal or chicken)
2 cups white wine – I like something with a nice acidity
2-3 Tb Concentrated Tomato Paste

Salt and Pepper to taste

Part 1 The beans
– Soak the bean overnight in enough water to cover by at least 3-4 inches
– Drain the beans
– While the beans are draining chop the pork belly into cubes
– Brown the pork belly over medium-low heat to render fat. Browning will help the pork belly keep it's shape during cooking. After all, we all love biting into a nice piece of pork belly, right?
– Drain half the rendered fat from the pork belly, then add 2 Tb duck fat
– Add well drained beans and cover with water and combine.
– Create a bouquet garni (so fancy shmancy) of 3 sprigs of thyme, 3 bays leaves, and peppercorns. Add to the pot with 4 garlic cloves
– Simmer for about an hour or so until tender, but still slightly firm – remember, you're going to be cooking this again.

Part 2 Meanwhile, while the beans are simmering, the meat
– Set oven at 325.
– Dice the pancetta
– Prick the pork sausage, this will allow the fat to render.
– Chop the onions and the peeled cloves of the entire bulb of garlic.
– In a large Dutch Oven, brown the whole sausage, then remove.
– Add the remainder of the duck fat to the pot
– Add the pancetta and brown.
– Add tomato paste, onions, and garlic. Stir and let soften.
– Meanwhile, slice browned sausage into slices
– Once the onions and garlic are fragrant, add the sliced sausage back into the pot.
– Add the two cups of white wine and bring to a simmer
– Add the stock and bring to a simmer
– Create another bouquet garni of 3 sprigs of thyme and 3 bays leaves and add to the pot
– Give the whole mess a good stir, then add the duck confit. If you want the legs to stay whole….be gentle
– Place in the oven and let braise for an hour or so, checking once or twice and giving a gentle stir

Part 3 Putting it together
– Once beans are ready drain into a colander, reserving the bean liquid. Remove the bouquet garni.
– Remove the braising meat pot from the oven and turn the temp up to 350
– Add beans and pork belly to the braised meats.
– If more liquid is needed, top off with bean juice.
– Give a gentle stir and return to oven for another 30 minutes. Remove the Dutch Oven, taste and adjust flavor with salt and pepper.
– Return to oven until the beans reach the desired texture.

Part 4 So here's where I do something a bit different

2 slices uncured bacon cut into lardons
2 Tb duck fat
1 Tb finely minced garlic
1/4 cup chopped flat leaf parsley
1 cup panko

-Add duck fat and bacon to a cold pan.
– Over medium heat brown and render the fat from the bacon
– When the bacon is almost browned, add garlic, then parsley
– Add panko and stir letting the panko absorb all the oil

-Heat oven to 350
– Add the desired amount of cassoulet to a gratin pan
– Place in the oven until the cassoulet is heated through and starting to bubble
– Remove the pan from the oven and turn the temp up to 450
– Top the cassoulet with flavored panko and return to oven
– Remove when the panko reaches a light brown color

The first day it was pretty much straight up. The second time I put it together and added come collards which the Missus enjoyed, so you might want to try that.