Fine Dining – Page 10

Thomas Hill Organics, Paso Robles, June 2014

July 18, 2014 ed fromyuma Fine Dining, Paso Robles/Cambria/San Luis Obispo County, Pizza, Road Trip, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!

Today Kirk and Cathy can concentrate on their real work (or just kick back and relax) because Ed (from Yuma) has a post about a restaurant up in Paso Robles.

Tina and I had wonderful memories of a lunch at Thomas Hill Organics back in 2009, so we wanted to be sure to go there with Steve and Helen. Again we entered through the larger and fancier alley entrance to the restaurant:

This side of the restaurant has the larger indoor dining room, the Park Street side has a long skinny room with the bar and small tables, but whenever possible, we like to eat in the central covered courtyard in the middle of the restaurant:

Remembering a wonderful watermelon gazpacho from our previous visit, Tina and I decided to share the avocado-corgette cold soup with coconut milk and chili oil ($8):

What can I say? The cool smooth green avocado blended with the summer fresh squash seemed like the essence of a late spring harvest – rich, vegetal, tangy and complex. The chili oil added a touch of spicy hotness to balance the cool green creamy depth of the soup.

For Helen, the soup was her main dish, though she did share some of Steve's skirt steak sandwich:

All of the sandwiches came with extremely fresh field greens tossed with a light basil vinaigrette and a few grains of quinoa:

Along with the soup, Tina opted for the local grass fed beef hamburger ($17):

Her burger was topped with Cambozola cheese, caramelized onions, and abundant applewood smoked bacon, all accented by nut romesco and roasted garlic aoli. It was really wonderful:

I had the pork belly banh mi:

I love banh mis, but this seemed a little over the top for my tastes. While the pickled carrots, avocado, and chopped cilantro were good, the two thick slices of pork belly seemed excessive and were a bit chewy. Call me old school, but I also missed the light crunchiness of a good Vietnamese baguette:

Tina and I had always wondered about dinner at Thomas Hill, so we decided to have our last dinner in Paso at Thomas Hill Organics. The menu seemed wide-ranging, we liked that many produce and protein sources were identified on the menu, and it is hard to beat the ambience of that courtyard.

Our dinner began with ahi tataki style ($16), a plate that looked like a beautiful little tuna topped volcano erupting ginger/scallion relish :

This was very nicely done. The excellent fresh ahi was lightly seared, and the ponzu sauce was perfectly flavored and did not overpower the other ingredients. Speaking of other ingredients, when Tina and I removed and divided the tuna, the rest of the appetizer was visible:

There was a large clump of wakame (seaweed salad), slices of avocado, wedges of pickled apricot, rounds of beautiful purple radish and cucumber, sunflower sprouts, and that ginger and scallion relish. For Tina and I, these flavors worked well together.

The next course was an unusual ceviche ($15) with local yellowtail and Oregon baby shrimp accompanied by chunks of Rocking Chair Farms nectarines and white peaches with purple radishes, cilantro, shaved shallots served on tostadas made from plantain and drizzled with coriander/honey coconut milk:

In most ways, this was an ambitious and very tasty ceviche presentation. It was not too tangy/sour to accompany our wine (more on that soon), and we loved the combination of stone fruit and seafood – though I would have liked even more of the seasonal fruits:

For us, the only things that didn’t work in the dish were the discs of plantain. They were more chewy than crunchy, and while they stood up to the ceviche toppings, the flavor/texture profile just didn't appeal and we actually left most of one round on the otherwise cleaned plate.

Because we were starting with two seafood courses, we began with glasses of Lone Madrone 2011 Points West White ($13), a very tasty Rhône style blend of 4 grapes, the rich and creamy roussane being the most prominent. We had tasted that very same wine the previous afternoon at the winery and had enjoyed it very much. It did not disappoint with dinner, and of course, the stemware was excellent and the pours very fair.

Our next course was called Jewel of the Spring Salad ($15):

In that picture, you can see what they called a Fabergé farm egg, attractive and hard-boiled. The greens in the salad were wild arugula and pea leaves and tendrils. The orange carrot ribbons, dark pink macerated red onions, asiago cheese shavings, and abundant sweet pea pods added body, color, and variety to this lightly dressed and unusual salad, dense with the taste of spring:

From the moment we had been seated in the courtyard in the middle of the building that evening, we noticed a chef attending to the woodfired pizza oven:

So our last course just had to be one of their woodfired pizzas. Called the Verde Green pizza on the menu, it was topped with mozzarella cheese, black truffle salami, pistachio nuts, roasted zucchini, basil leaves and a light sprinkling of Romano cheese ($17):

It was excellent, the crust light and crunchy and the toppings tasty but not overpowering. We shared a glass of Enfold 2010 Jazzy Zinfandel ($13), which went well with the pizza.

We had a good time at Thomas Hill Organics, the service, ambience, and food were all first rate. Much of the food was local and organic. The wine list was well focused on local wineries. If we had any complaint, it was that we ordered too much food, so had to take about half of the pizza back to our room with us. Oh, hold on here, why am I complaining about a midnight snack?

Thomas Hill Organics, 1313 Park St., Paso Robles CA 93446, (805) 226-8555

French Omakase: Bistro Laurent in Paso Robles

July 6, 2014 ed fromyuma Fine Dining, French Restaurants, Paso Robles/Cambria/San Luis Obispo County, Road Trip, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!

Again today it is Ed (from Yuma) blogging, not Kirk or Cathy. More about his vacation in Paso Robles.

Every evening in Paso we had to decide on dinner. Steve and Helen and Tina and I had rooms in an old-fashioned 1950s style motel only a couple of blocks from the beautiful little park downtown. Where once I had had difficulties finding a good meal in Paso, now there were numerous restaurants serving all kinds of wine friendly cuisine, at a range of different price points, all within easy walking distance of the motel. So every evening we would stroll around, read menus, and discuss the possibilities at great length. We started the process fairly early so no serious danger of anybody actually starving.

On Tuesday evening, we wanted to get a look at the menu at Bistro Laurent, which had been closed Monday. The restaurant sits kitty corner from the northwest point of the park and is located in an old brick building:

On the right side of this picture is the outdoor/indoor patio area, right next to the actual entrance (picture taken later):

We looked at the menus. There were various dishes à la carte, appetizers, salads, entrées, etc. There were also prix fixe dinner options: four courses or five courses; with wines or not. The hostess then explained that we could just allow the chef to decide our dinner selections based on what he wanted to prepare. That sounded way too easy – French bistro Omakase. We sat in the enclosed patio area, and all decided on the chef's four choices with wine.

An amuse bouche, sort of a mini bruschetta, showed up first:

It was okay, certainly, but to my mouth, not especially amusing.

The server then poured us each a small glass of French Chablis:

We all thought it was a fine dry Chardonnay, and we all loved the breads that showed up next. Each of us grabbed half of a slice of the rustic dark olive bread to start:

There was also the equivalent of a small baguette of crusty French bread in the bread basket as well:

The next item to hit our table was the first course, warm lobster salad:

Wow! In the center of the plate stood a mound of chopped mesclun lettuce topped with and surrounded by large chunks of moist warm fresh poached lobster. Numerous chunks – excellent quality. And the whole salad was brought together by the mild creamy white sauce. Three orange slices and green and red flecks for color.

The next thing to arrive at our table was clean stemware for our glasses of La Vieille Ferme, a pleasant blended French red wine from the Rhône Valley:

To our initial surprise, the dish to accompany this red wine was grilled sturgeon, lying on a bed of al dente French lentils in a savory cream sauce:

But combination of wine and ingredients worked. The fish was not overcooked, it's mild fleshy flavor accented by the earthy lentils and both balanced by the light red wine:

After we finished the course, our wine glasses were changed again and a full flavored 2009 Paso Robles syrah from Clavo vineyards was poured to complement the meat course:

Two large pieces of venison, roasted medium rare, sat on top of a thick disk of fried mashed potatoes. Not only did I enjoy the accompanying blueberry sauce; I also savored the sprig of fresh marjoram, taking little bites of the herb occasionally as I chewed the deeply flavored deer meat:

The chef's choice of desserts was accompanied by small glasses of Sauternes, a sweet golden wine made from late harvested white wine grapes affected by pourriture noble, which gives the wine a honeyed richness:

The desert itself was a fresh fig tart topped with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream and surrounded by vanilla and caramel sauces:

The pastry was light and flaky. Figs, vanilla, caramel mingled light sweet flavors. Umm-yoso.

Even though each dinner (with wine) was $69, all four of us thought we received good value. No one left hungry – in fact, we were all stuffed. The wines had been well-chosen and enhanced the foods . The pours were generous for a prix fixe dinner. The service throughout the meal was outstanding without being annoying or intrusive – very friendly, helpful, and professional. The meal was a culinary highlight of our visit to Paso Robles.

Doing this post reminded me that I had first eaten at the restaurant back in the summer of 2002. It is interesting that a few things have changed for the better over the years, but the chef has stayed true to his basic vision. And his vision looks pretty good to me!

Bistro Laurent, 1202 Pine Street, Paso Robles CA, (805) 226-8191, 11:30 – 2:00 and 5:30 – 10:00 Tues – Sat. Website

Roadtrip: Dinner at Wakuriya (San Mateo)

March 27, 2014 mmm-yoso Fine Dining, Japanese Restaurants, Memorable Meals, Road Trip, San Francisco and Silicon Valley

Yeah, I know, perhaps I should mention something about the Michelin star in my title. But I figure there will be folks who know of Wakuriya and perhaps people "skimming" would spend enough time to read the first sentence of the post. I'm not totally sold on the Michelin Guide, it is after all a tourist guide. The one thing I've found with all the Michelin Starred Restaurants I've been to, the last one being The French Laundry, when I was young and thought it was all about expense and prestige, is that service in these named establishments have always been excellent…..sometimes a bit too much, but still excellent at its core. To be honest, it's not what the Michelin Guide said that drew me to Wakuriya, but the pedigree of the husband and wife team that runs the place. Katsuhiro & Mayumi Yamasaki both worked at the legendary Kaiseki restaurant Kitcho in Kyoto. The place has been on my list for quite a while. The restaurant takes only about 15 customers per evening, it's a small intimate experience. You call for reservations starting at midnight 30 days before. Knowing we were finally headed back up to the Bay Area, though only as North as Daly City, the Missus was all for a nice dinner…… So I called when I woke on a weekday morning 445 am, called an left a message for a reservation. And receiving a call back later in the day telling me, in the most polite Japanese way, "nice try, but you better try a bit harder if you really want to eat here…." I went home and told the Missus. Now usually, She'd be a bit irritated and decide the effort was not worth it….but for some reason, She was quite interested. So interested that She woke up just before midnight and called for reservations right when the clocked flashed 12:00…….and got a busy signal! She hung up and called back and left a message and later that day we found out that we'd gotten two seats at Wakuriya.

The tiny restaurant is situated in the most discreet and low-keyed locale….in a strip mall (of course – my kind of place) that contains a Safeway. It was the week after Thanksgiving; which turned out to be the coldest weekend of the winter. It was drizzling and pretty darn cold. As we walked to the door; we got the earliest reservations possible, 630, and had arrived a bit early….the door opened and Mayumi Yamasaki opened the door, saw us, and when we told her we had reservations, she asked us to come in because it was just to cold.

The interior is spartan; a couple of tables and a long wood bar. I don't know if it was by plan or just our timing, but we were seated at the bar, which only had two seats. We loved where we were, isolated from all the customers who would come in later, and able to watch the operations of putting together dinner take place.

I enjoy getting in early at restaurants…..though at time the kitchen hasn't hit its rhythm, I find the service and pacing to be much better, as was the case here; we got nice explanations of our dishes and even had time to chat a bit. Mayumi does the front of house…..this is basically a two person operation which means all of the front of house, Katsuhiro does all the cooking and most of the food prep. He works in silence. We heard him speak twice during our entire time in the restaurant…as we left; a "thank you" and "goodnight".

As you might guess the meal is in the style of Kaiseki, seasonal, much of it local, juggling taste and appearance, and was served in a fairly traditional order. I guess I'd call this "Modern California Kaiseki". Things started off with an apéritif, a wonderful infused nigori sake.

There are sake, wine, and other drinks available. We went with two of the tasting flights.

The Missus went with the "Fruity Flight"…the name still makes me laugh, with Yuzu Omoi – bascially yuzu infused sake, Kome Kome Shu – a light and tart "Riesling" like sake, and the Missus' favorite the Ume Shu.

I went with the premium sake flight; mainly because it had my favorite, Kubota Manju……

It is typical for a Kaiseki meal to start off with a Sakizuke, basically a small appetizer, almost like an amuse-bouche. In this case it was a fairly size-able oven baked "goma-tofu" topped with uni.

Goma tofu is not tofu in the classic sense; it is made with sesame paste and a thickening agent. Loved the rich flavor of sesame with the rich though refreshing flavor of the uni. This was actually a pretty good size appetizer.

The Zensai – the true appetizers featured three items; the lobster with egg yolk dressing and avocado.

The Missus is not the biggest fan of lobster, but this was tender and sweet, the ikura (salmon roe) added a perfect briney balance.

Fried Fresno Satoimo with miso two ways…..

This was served "dengaku" (topped with miso) style. The milder, sweeter, and less salty Saikyo miso version was a winner.

The grated apple on the Madai (Red Snapper) nigiri was a revelation….I would never for the life of me think of this combination.

The Onmono, which I thought of as "Futamono" was a nice, clean, dashi based broth with wonderful rich and velvety, kamo dango of sorts…duck meatballs.

So comforting on such a cold night.

Next up, the Sashimi Tsukuri. This was done in the form of a salad with a citrus dressing….

Nice, crisp, refreshing….the Missus said the Hokkaido Scallop hidden under everything might have been one of the best bites She's had in a while.

The Mushimono – steamed dish was a steamed black cod with sesame sauce.

Nice fish prep, the Missus isn't the biggest fan of sesame paste, so other than the brussel sprouts, this wasn't a favorite.

Some gelato to refresh….Satsuma Granite with sweet ginger syrup

By this time, 730 had arrived and all the other tables were full. Still, we had a bird's eye view of the proceedings. Things were never rushed, questions were always answered, and things moved like a well choreographed dance……no words between husband and wife, the magic of spousal instincts with regards to movement and order.

The next dish, the heaviest and most substantial was actually our least favorite of the evening; the wagyu no miso sukiyaki.

The meat was very tender, but had a strong metallic tinge to it; the miso sauce wasa bit too salty for my taste.

The end of the meal (except for dessert) was a typical Gohanmono – the rice dish. There was a choice of two offered, so of course we got one each.

The ebi no tempura donburi – fried shrimp over rice was nice, the shrimp tender, though the Missus enjoys a lighter, more crisp batter…..I loved the tsuyu which had a perfect balance for my taste.

The "Tai Chazuke" featured snapper with sesame paste and dashi over rice.

To me, this is comfort food elevated…….for the Missus, it had more sesame paste than She enjoys.

As for dessert, matcha and and white bean mousse with petit “tai-yaki”……

Well it must have been good since the Missus ate both of them!

We both really enjoyed our meals. The service was excellent, not only was our hostess efficient and knowledgeable, but also quite gracious….and those little things were apparent. When my first dish arrived, the settings were on my right….but after I ate it with my left hand, all my settings were placed on my left. The matcha to end the meal was as perfect as I've ever had…..we watched Mayumi preparing the tea; she added some hot water, then took a pause to check the temperature by feel, it was apparently too hot so she waited and then added water waiting to serve us until she thought it was the correct temp……..which we got to see since we were seated at the bar.

While not quite in the league of Urasawa, I'd say this meal is well worth the $95 price tag (minus drinks). With 15 settings a night, you know this isn't a money grab……

I'm positive we'll try to return during another season….if the Missus can get through on the phone line!

Wakuriya
115 De Anza Blvd
San Mateo, CA 94402

Dinner at Tarbell’s in Phoenix

November 13, 2013 ed fromyuma Fine Dining, Phoenix/Scottsdale/Chandler/Central AZ, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!

Since Kirk is still really busy, and Cathy deserves a day off, Ed (from Yuma) has a post today that wraps up recent food adventures in Phoenix, Arizona. Hope you enjoy. Come back tomorrow for something completely different.

After an afternoon of enchantment and befuddlement at the Phoenix Art Museum, Tina and I were looking forward to a special meal to conclude our stay in Arizona's capital city. It was dark when we arrived at Tarbell's, located in a large strip mall at the southeast corner of 32nd and Camelback:

As soon as we were seated in a tasteful dining room with white linen clad tabletops, we were handed menus and a wine list. Slices of crunchy French baguette accompanied with a superb olive oil arrived quickly. Truly outstanding smooth, fresh and flavorful olive oil, as good as or better than any Tina and I can remember:

The wine list was very extensive – and for that matter very expensive, listing numerous bottles of French Burgundy and Bordeaux with prices of several hundred dollars apiece. The kinds of wines I’d choose after winning the lottery. Unfortunately I had not hit the Powerball jackpot, so I appreciated the range of less expensive choices, including the first page list of Tarbell's most popular wines. Our primary waitperson was great at going over the list and helping us select something that would match our menu selections without completely busting the budget. We ended up ordering a bottle of 2009 Prophet’s Rock Pinot Gris from the central Otago region of New Zealand:

Considering that I had never heard of this part of New Zealand, at around 45° south latitude at the southern end of the southern island of that nation, I was amazed at the quality of the wine. While dry, the full-bodied and well-structured wine had layers of flavors with a fruity and flowery nose. As good a white wine as I have ever drunk – and as our server had predicted – it matched seamlessly with the variety of dishes we had ordered. I should add, at $76 it was the most expensive bottle of wine that I have ever purchased in a restaurant. But well worth it.

Tina had chosen the field greens salad ($9):

Much like the wine, this was truly outstanding. The long slices of cucumber, the chips of pickled carrot, and the beautiful halfmoons of watermelon radish added crunch and flavor to the wonderfully fresh salad greens. We were also impressed by the perfect dressing for this salad; again, the olive oil was spectacular and the dressing had just a hint of salt but minimal, if any, vinegary tang.

I had wanted to see how Tarbell's would present that old warhorse, the Caesar salad ($11):

While not as out of the world spectacular as the greens, this was a fine rendition. The thin crouton slices were dry, crunchy, and still flavorful. The baby romaine leaves were fresh and crisp. The dressing was lightly applied and tasted more of Reggiano Parmesan than anchovy.

Speaking of old warhorses, we decided to have an order of fried calamari ($15):

Although some pieces of the cephalopod were a little chewy, the non-greasy tempura coating added crunch and flavor. But what truly distinguished this version of fried squid were the accompanying sauces. The green sauce on the left tasted very cool and green – cilantro and lime flavors predominating. The red sauce on the right, by contrast, was spicy hot with chilies and tomato. Our taste buds debated over which was the best, but it was one of those conflicts both sides win.

Tina's entrée was Mr. Fish of the Moment ($38), Acadian redfish:

Wow! As nice fish dish as I can recall eating. Ever. The redfish was perfectly cooked, still moist and flaky. The micro greens, sliced radishes, and shredded carrot added a beautiful chromatic and textural contrast to the two fillets. This was all served on top of cellophane noodles in a perfectly seasoned mussel broth. While this sounds like a lot going on, everything went together very nicely. It took great restraint to keep me from licking up the brothy bits left on the plate.

I chose the scallop entrée ($38), four seared scallops accompanied by rice cake cubes, napa cabbage leaves, cilantro sprigs, and mussels with a creamy curry sauce.:

On the downside, this dish seemed a mumbo-jumbo to me. While the mussels and the curry sauce were excellent, I couldn't quite understand how they were connected to the rice cakes, cabbage leaves, and scallops. The plate itself was not especially attractive.

The upside, and it was a huge upside, were the scallops themselves, perfectly seared:

Yet not overcooked:

These rare scallops were obviously fresh and redolent of scallop flavor. Like the rest of the meal, they matched the New Zealand Pinot Gris. Yum.

At this point, I need to stress how wonderful the service at Tarbell's had been throughout the entire evening. Never stuffy and formal, never chatty and intrusive, every individual who served our table in any way performed her or his job in a friendly and professional manner. The primary waitperson who took our order was exceeding patient and helpful. She returned to the table 2 or 3 times while Tina and I wrestled with our dinner choices, making important contributions to the meal’s success. In addition, the runners and bussers were equally skillful from beginning of the dinner to its conclusion. We were never bothered and never abandoned.

Usually, Tina and I will share a single dessert, if we have any at all. This evening was an exception. Warm chocolate cake covered with chocolate sauce and topped with pistachio gelato sounded irresistible to me, but our helpful waitperson said the southern bread pudding with bourbon sauce was award-winning and not to be missed. I know when to order two desserts – in this was that time:

I can't add much to that picture. The cake ($9) was warm, dense, and chocolatey, and the chocolate sauce only intensified those characteristics. The pistachio ice cream and diced pistachio nuts added a nice contrast.

The bread pudding and bourbon sauce was also excellent ($9):

Along with those two, our waitperson brought us the vanilla cheesecake with rosemary caramel sauce (no charge):

I can't imagine that we looked like people who needed 3 desserts, but it was a nice gesture. Unfortunately, we had to take the cheesecake back to the motel because neither of us had any appetite or stomach capacity left.

Overall, Tina and I tuly enjoyed our meal. The food, the wine, and especially the service were all outstanding. We'd love to return. Another dinner here would be almost as good as that winning lottery ticket. Well, almost.

Tarbell's, 3213 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix AZ 85018, 602-955-8100. Open every evening, (except major holidays and Super Bowl Sunday) 5 PM-10 PM (9 PM Sundays). Website

Bink’s Midtown in Phoenix Arizona

November 3, 2013 ed fromyuma American/New American Restaurants, Fine Dining, Phoenix/Scottsdale/Chandler/Central AZ, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!

Today Kirk is really busy. Cathy is busy. But Ed (from Yuma) recently got back from a weekend in Phoenix where he ate food.

Tina and I were in Phoenix to look at stuff in art museums,
go shopping, and eat some interesting food. On Friday night, we got a
reservation for Bink's Midtown, the newest restaurant of Kevin and Amy Binkley,
who have gained a reputation for innovative culinary approaches.

It took us a couple of minutes to find the location which is
in a converted old house and is not located at a street corner nor in a strip
mall. At night, this sign should help you find the restaurant:

In addition to a large patio area, whose 8 – 10 tables were
fully occupied when we arrived at 6:45, the restaurant offered 2 or 3 sizable
rooms decorated with vegetable/plant paintings along
the white walls and white butcher paper atop white linen on the tables. While the
focus was clearly on the food, not the decor, the rooms were cheerful, tasteful,
and utilitarian although a bit noisy when all of the tables were occupied.

The emphasis in the restaurant is on fresh local produce. A list of dishes featuring local produce comes attached to the main menu
with a clothes pin. Cute and functional, I gotta say:

The produce-centric items were divided into Cold, Hot, and
Salad sections, with a couple of soups at the bottom:

The wine list was a single page divided into whites and
reds. While a modest list by fancy restaurant standards, many choices in both
categories would have satisfied us. Some wines were also available by glass and by
carafe.

After talking with the helpful server, Tina and I decided on
one item from each produce section as well as an appetizer and a main course,
all of which we would share. We would start with a carafe of white wine, but we
wanted a Pinot Noir from Oregon (Purple Hands) to accompany the duck. Our white
wine choice, an anonymous riesling from Alsace, was the first thing to show up
at our table:

It was a good match for most of our dinner as the wine
opened with fruity and flowery notes, but had a smooth dry finish, making it
very versatile.

The beet produce plate arrived next:

We were delighted. The thinly sliced cool yellow
beets were accompanied by salted hazelnuts, blueberries, chunks of feta goat
cheese, and a few baby greens. The dressing was a mild olive oil and berry
vinaigrette. Two major interplays dominated the dish. There
was a sweet salty balance, the berries and beets playing off against the cheese
and nuts. Similarly there was an interesting textural variation with the
crunchy hazelnuts at one polarity and soft berries and creamy feta cheese at
the other. Wow! An outstanding beginning.

We were about halfway through the beets when the arugula and
fig salad landed on the table. About a minute later, the duck breast flew in
from the kitchen. A cast-iron bucket of mussels found a spot near the middle of
the little two-top, and a cast-iron serving tray filled with the slices of
summer squash gratin plopped down on the one small part of the table not
already occupied by food, utensils, and wine.

The chaos seemed overwhelming at that moment. Where to
start? How to eat all of these things at once? I was on the verge of a foodie
meltdown when Tina decided we should do some prioritizing. The cold salad could
wait for later. No point in attacking the duck without the Pinot Noir to go
along with it, and there was no point in requesting that wine since
there was no place for it anywhere on the small table anyway.

So we concentrated on drinking the pleasant riesling,
finishing the wonderful beets, and savoring the mussels and the squash while
they were hot and fresh from the oven. The perfectly prepared mussels were
bathed in a light creamy curry sauce with pronounced lemongrass flavors:

Although that picture doesn't show much – black mussels at
the bottom of a black cast-iron bucket are not the most photogenic food items –
the mussels were outstandingly tender and fresh. The accompanying bread was
slightly sweet and had an interesting texture: firm, but not chewy or crunchy.
I wished I had more of it to soak up the flavorful broth.

The summer squash gratin was also very nicely done. While
the menu described it as a "purée," the serving tray contained thin
interleaved slices of yellow and green squash:

The slices were perfectly cooked, not soft and not raw.
Overall, the dish emphasized their flavor, and the Parmesan stayed in the
background. If this had been served as a side dish in a steakhouse, I probably
wouldn't have paid much attention to it, and that would've been a shame,
because it was splendid. So good that I had to remind Tina to eat some of it before I gobbled it all up.

At this point, we got the attention of a waitperson who cleared
some table and brought over the carafe of Oregon Pinot Noir (and appropriate
stemware) (sorry, no picture). Now Tina and I could turn our attention to the
remaining 2 items.

The sizable arugula salad had a lot going on:

The arugula itself was mounded on top of strands of
spaghetti squash, covered with shredded pecorino Romano, and dotted with halves
of black mission figs, chunks of dried apricot, and pieces of pecan. The menu
says there was a horseradish/honey dressing, but I didn't notice it. To me, the
emphasis in the salad was on the ingredients, and each bite was a little
different than the one before. As with the beet appetizer, sweet/salty tastes
and a range of textures predominated.

Finally, we turned to the roasted duck breast, still warm
enough to make for pleasant eating:

We had requested the duck to be medium rare and were both
pleased that it had not been overcooked. The crunchy skin accented the smooth
rich flavor of the waterfowl. The seasoning was perfect for my palate; first the savor of duck breast
filled my mouth, and then the notes of Chinese 5 spice contributed to a long
and complex finish. The Purple Hands Pinot Noir was a perfect match, having
enough earthy body to stand up to the duck.

Although the simultaneous arrival of most of the dinner was
a bit disconcerting, and the noise made it sometimes hard to converse, Tina and
I really enjoyed our night at Bink’s. The food preparations were all tasty and
most of them were very imaginative as well. We also appreciated the emphasis on
local and seasonal produce. Considering the quality of ingredients and the
skill of preparation, the price of our dinner for 2 seemed like a good value
for a special meal:

Next time, we will order a fewer dishes at a time and take
more control of the organization of the meal. The originality of the
preparations and quality of the food really deserve a more leisurely pace, and
each plate is worthy of a diner's attention and focus.

Bink’s Midtown, 2320 E Osborn Rd, Phoenix, AZ 85016; (602)
388-4874; Open 11Am (10 on Sunday), closed 10 pm (11 Fri & Sat).

The Fishery in PB – One More Time

September 30, 2013 ed fromyuma Fine Dining, Seafood, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!

It's Ed (from Yuma) again, this time having a dinner with Tina at The Fishery in Pacific Beach. You're invited to join them. Kirk and Cathy will happily share meals with you at the blog as well, just not today.

I have no memory of my first visit to The Fishery on Cass Street in Pacific Beach, but I know the restaurant opened back when I was a denizen of PB in the late 90s. In 2009, I posted about a couple of meals Tina and I had at the restaurant. Unfortunately we hadn't been back since.

The exterior of the restaurant has not changed as far as I can tell:

And the interior still has hard wooden tables, wooden walls, a fish counter, and very little noise abatement, making the restaurant occasionally LOUD on the busy Saturday night when we visited. Soon after we arrived, Nate, a professional and helpful server, brought us menus and a wine list. He answered our questions, and when asked for help choosing a wine, he suggested the Lagar de Cervera, Albariño, 2011, from the Rias Biaxas region of coastal Galicia in Spain.:

It was good, beginning with clean flavors of tart apple, opening up with a more generous mouth feel and depth and complexity of flavor, and concluding with a smooth and lingering finish. It also complemented the seafood we ordered .

Our meal began with some slices of good but not outstanding bread alongside a whipped lightly herbed butter:

The white bread had a nice crust but isn't especially memorable. The brown bread was in the style of a German bauernbrot, slightly nutty with a mild taste of rye flour –kindof like pumpernickel but neither as dense nor intense.

A good-sized bowl of clams cooked in a spicy white Bordeaux wine reduction showed up next.:

The clams were small and slightly chewy though they were flavorful, garlicky, and fresh. The salty and strong flavored broth was great for dipping the little clams and the crunchy slices of garlic bread.

We had each ordered a soup. The clam chowder was nothing exceptional, containing few clams or potatoes; however, it was very well balanced, smooth, and creamy:

The very fishy seafood soup was more interesting and complex.:

Throughout the soup, chunks of various fishes, large pieces of tomato, and abundant celery, onion, and green pepper slices provided texture as well as flavor. We agreed it was outstanding:

Tina's entrée was macadamia encrusted Alaskan halibut.:

The perfectly cooked piece of halibut rested on a soft fluffy bed of buttery mashed Yukon potatoes. The fish was topped with fresh frisee and slices of red pear.:

Circling the plate was a spicy purée of chilies and red stone fruit. The sweet spicy flavors were accented by the small pickled red chile slices.

I chose the fresh local sea bass – which I thought was perfectly cooked to just beyond rare:

While the same buttery mashed potatoes underlay the fresh filet, it was topped with a tart apple slaw and accompanied by grilled and charred baby brussel sprout halves and tasty mustard vinaigrette. Where Tina's fish’s flavors had been lit up by sweet spicy accents, my naturally sweet sea bass was contrasted with tangy slaw and vinaigrette. We both love our entrées.

Overall, Tina and I were delighted with the meal. Sometimes it was a little too noisy for us to easily carry on a conversation, but the service and the food and the overall experience left us feeling full and happy. Though not cheap, we felt the dinner was a reasonable value:

The Fishery, 5040 Cass St, San Diego 92109, 858-272-9985

Lisbon Day 2: Using the “Lisbon Rule” at Pastelaria 1800 and dinner at Assinatura

July 12, 2013 mmm-yoso Desserts, Fine Dining, Lisbon, Portugal, Portuguese Food, Travel

It seems that in recent years we're always travelling on the Missus's birthday, which She says is the "second" best gift She could get (the first being a Chanel something or other…). This year, I wanted to have a nice, a more fine dining type of dinner, something special. So I made reservations several months in advance at Assinatura, which seemed to be a rising star of a restaurant in Lisbon, supposedly elevating traditional Portuguese cuisine. This seemed like the perfect spot for us.

One could easily question our sanity having started the day with a "pork-fest (and beer) for breakfast sandwiched between pastel de natas, then having some Frango Assado for lunch. Still, this was way more walking than I'm used to, which left me with a good appetite.

Getting there was easy, perhaps too easy, just a straight shot on the Blue line getting off at Marques de Pombal. Up the street and a few blocks later we passed the street Assinatura was located on. Over an hour early. It was breezy and there was a chill in the air, and we had time to kill, so now what? Well, it seemed to be the perfect time to initiate the "Lisbon Rule", whenever you start getting a bit confused and frustrated, it's time for some espresso and a Pastel de Nata. We walked up the street for a bit and found this shop near the Rato stop on the Yellow line.

It was warm and full of local color. This was a place to chat and take in the folks having a snack here. There were the three older women, dressed so primly, who sat by the front window, and were obviously locals who did this quite often, having quite the conversation. A gentleman and his daughter, stopping for a snack, talking in that animated, conspiratory tone that only fathers and daughters have, lively, tinged with laughter and teasing. After walking out of the shop, he hoisted her on his shoulder. And the quiet gentleman, beret tilted slightly on his head, who periodically opened the portfolio placed precisely aligned to the corner of the table, occasionally removing a pamphlet or a letter which he would open and read with what seemed like scrupulous detail.

We found this so refreshing….there was no texting, no iPads, no cellphones going off, no hipster, machiatic-soy latte-grande on my acai-kale drink thing going on. It seemed so organic and real that it felt like we had been beamed back to another time.

I don't remember much about the espresso, nor the pastries. What I do remember is really taking in the atmosphere which was priceless. Just the perfect break we needed at the right time.

Pastelaria 1800
Largo do Rato 7
Lisbon, Portugal

Fortified, we headed back to Assinatura arriving at about 720. There was already a line in place, of folks who had reservations! It seems that a good number of folks were with a large party who were seated downstairs near the kitchen at the Chef's table.

The dining room at Assinatura was just our speed; nice, but understated. The service during our meal was good, our Server, a very professional young lady really knew her stuff and managed her staff well. The timing was perfect, no extended delays. Just what you'd expect out of a restaurant of this caliber.

Assinatura has a regular menu and several tasting menus, three of which are "tasting menus", where you put yourself in the hands of the chef, which was fine with us. You can't mix and match, so we both had the same menu, the seven course (61 E), with one set of wine (35 E).

I have to say that things started out rather inauspiciously for us as the bread was cold and not particularly remarkable, though the olive oil from Alentejo was marvelously grassy and full bodied.

The amuse, which we were told was not "an amuse" since that is French, was a very nice pastry stuffed with wonderfully creamy and rich bacalhau. The salt cod really stood up well to this rich preparation.

Next up was an Octopus Terrine with Peanut Sauce.

There was also pineapple in this dish, which to our tastes was rather disjointed. The peanut sauce, was pretty much peanut butter and the octopus kind of had a chewy texture (we've had more tender octopus) which made for a kind of weird mouthfeel for us. The pineapple was too sweet without enough acid to cut through all of this and nothing stood out in terms of flavor.

Even worse was the Sardine…..

Which was so fishy, even the tomato couldn't cut it. Sadly, it was sardine season and this was probably the worst sardine we had during our entire trip.

Next up was a White Gazpacho of sorts with Bacalhau.

Unfortunately, nothing really stood out here. The salt cod was very mild, which I guess might be a good thing. The"gazpacho" was quite weak and didn't bring anything bold or acidic to the table.

The next dish was my favorite of the evening. It was swordfish with pea puree…which really doesn't sound that great……but it was possibly the best piece of swordfish, something I'm not fond of, that I've ever had.

The fish was so very tender and moist, meaty and perfectly flaky. The caramelized onions brought a perfect sweet-acidity. The prawns added an umami touch. But the one item on the plate that really surprised me in this combination of flavors was how the sweet and earthy pea puree just grounded the dish. Man, this was good!

Next up was another well done dish; what seemed like a homage to the Francesinha.

The crisp bread. the milky cheese, and that wonderful pork flavor that I associate with a good Bifana. This was a lovely dish.

After having a good share of tasting menus, I've found that dessert doesn't often live up to the savory dishes offered. This was an exception as the Missus totally loved it.

Along with dessert we were served a very, very good selection of three cheeses. Now if I was really on top of things I'd tell you what cheeses they were. All I can say is that they were really good with the aged Port I had!

All in all a good, but not great meal. I kind of think that if you're spending over two hundred bucks you'd expect a bit more, but perhaps that's just us.

Assinatura
Rua Vale do Pereiro 19 A
Lisbon, Portugal

Las Vegas: Dinner at Sage

March 12, 2013 mmm-yoso American/New American Restaurants, Fine Dining, Las Vegas, Memorable Meals, Road Trip

What to do after two lunches in Vegas? Well, I guess a walk up the strip was in order. I parked at Aria, took the tram to the Bellagio, then headed up the strip. At Fashion Show Mall, where the Missus had checked out the latest from Lululemon the night before, I crossed the street and headed back.

On the way back, I decided to kill a couple of minutes at Harrah's, a place where I've had some luck in the past. I ended up making about $200 and decided it was time to flee…..

For our final dinner in Vegas, the Missus decided that we should do sort of a blow-out meal. Unfortunately, just about every place I wanted was booked, Guy Savoy, Joel Robuchon, even Picasso, no bueno. My fifth pick was Sage, in the Aria. I'd heard some nice things about the place and it seemed a lot less assuming than the other four. Years ago, when Michelin Stars and stuff like that really mattered to us, we'd have been disappointed. But after doing The French Laundry, Spago, et al, the Missus and I decided that stuff really isn't for us. Some of it was stuffy and rather pretentious and you can get to the point where you're describing the food like a science project, not my style. But hey…..every once in a while you gotta live, right? And Sage really isn't that expensive.

We arrived right when they opened at 5. Though you might take a risk with the kitchen not being in full swing….they haven't hit their rhythm yet, I still prefer a more relaxed time. And though things might get kind of hectic at the tail end of your meal, you at least have enjoyed most of your meal.

We were the second party seated and our Server, who introduced himself as "Bond, as in you know…." was a pro's pro. He was also quite a character…..we came to find out his name was Jason Bond. Next up was what and how to order. You see, I wanted the Chef's Tasting Menu with the Beer Pairing, the Missus did not. And I understand the issues with pacing and all of that. If you're getting six courses and the person across from you is just getting an app and a main, well there's going to be a lot of dead time for the person having the conventional meal. Again, we plan for the win-win. So when I explained to Mr Bond that only one of us would like the six course tasting, he tried to discourage us from doing that. Until I explained our proposal. I'd get the six course with the beer pairing and the Missus would get five starters. In essence we'd be creating our own little tasting menu. We've often found starters to be more interesting than mains in many cases. Bond got really excited about this and told us it was a great idea, he went to check with the kitchen, who he said was "excited about this". I don't know about that, but we also told him to have the kitchen sequence the starters any way they please….which would mean that it would indeed be like having our own tasting menu.

Things started out with what looked like Himalyan salt and a herb butter. We were shown the bread basket and the two different breads. The serious looking, but really funny young man said, "I think you should each take both." In the end we took one of each. We knew we had a pretty rich meal in front of us.

The sour dough was decent, nice textures. The bacon roll; well, we were tempted to get another.

We were brought an amuse of a Kumamoto Oyster with Tequila Mignonette, and Piquillo Pepper.

The mignonette had a nice tartness to it, very cleansing. Love the sweetness of Piquillo Peppers, I'll probably have to buy some one of these days.

When we had finished up the oyster, the first beer of our tasting arrived. This was a St Feuillien Saison from Belgium. Very crisp, with a nice, almost sweet aroma. This was very easy to drink, light and airy. We also noted that the temperature of the beer was just right on perfect.

This was paired with the Chilled Main Lobster. The brown butter added a nice nuttiness to the dish, making it seem a lot lighter than it was. The Missus is not a big lobster fan, but this lobster was wonderfully sweet and very tender.

The Missus got the Wagyu Beef Tartare ($18).

This was very good. The creamy lightly poached egg yolk just added that extra luxurious texture to the very fatty, melt in your mouth Wagyu Beef. Two interesting touches, the pickled mustard seeds which helped to cut the richness and the savory crisp chocolate made this dish just that much better.

Next up was an interesting dish, the Foie Gras Brulee. Tasting the combinations of flavors in this was rather unpleasant for me as I thought it way too sweet.

Though I loved the salted brioche, the brulee was too much like having candy and pudding for dinner. Great when you're in elementary school, but not after. The cocoa nibs did act to settle things down and take it into a more savory-coffee direction, but it was just too much, until…… I tried this with the beer pairing.

This dish was pared with the Dogfish Head Midas Touch. The Missus loved it as well, it has a mead-like texture and that honey like flavor. There some fruitiness to it and the Missus enjoyed that component….I'm thinking that is probably due to the use of muscat grapes in the making of this. It's a favorite beer of our now. This just seemed to take that sharp sweet edge off the Foie Gras Brulee. To me, this was an awesome pairing.

The Missus got the Grilled Spanish Octopus ($22):

You wouldn't have thought this was octopus if you looked at it. Bond told us they removed the suckers and such so as to "not scare the customers". The octopus was very tender, but this wasn't especially memorable.

My next dish was the Pan-Roasted Sea Scallop. Man, the Jamon Iberico, mild salty-sweet, along with the creamy sunchoke-parsley root, and the olive oil made for a wonderful match.

Scallop and cured pig, a match made in heaven….there should be a children's book by that name, don't you think?

This was paired with another beer from Belgium, Duvel. Very fizzy, clean, with what seems like a bit of spice, this didn't mess with the flavor of the scallops.

The Missus got Her second favorite dish of the evening; the Slow Poached Organic Farm Egg($18), which was almost obscured from view by all the shaved truffles.

The Missus just loved this, even the potato foam and the smoked potato. She was in egg-truffle heaven.

Next up was a very nice Venison Tenderloin. This might just be some of the most tender venison I've ever had.

You could really taste the venison in this dish. The combination of flavors was very pleasant.

Loved the pairing, the Ayinger Celebrator Doppelbock looked really heavy, but was not. Has a raisin-chocolate, earthy flavor which goes well with the gamey venison.

Just to prove that there is too much of a good thing, we were stunned at the huge portion size of the Roasted Sweetbreads ($17).

The dish started out really good…especially the sweet and smokey glazed bacon, which was a like a nice smoked pork belly. The sweetbreads were good at first, not the best I've had, they could have been a bit more, well, gooey on the inside. But man, after a couple of bites of this rich stuff, you pretty much wanted to hoist up the white flag. I'd prefer it more lightly fried….and that portion size was quite large for sweetbreads. And yes TFD, these are thymus glands.

Our last two savory dishes were very good. The 48 Hour Beef Belly, was rich, but the roasted quince and the caraway spiced squash helped temper things.

This was served with a Chimay Grande Reserve which was very fruity, perhaps a bit too fruity for my taste.

The Missus's last dish was the Braised Beef Tongue ($19). All I can say is that this was outstanding. Looking all the world like it would be on the waxy side, this was tender to the touch. The celery moved the dish forward by cutting the richness as did the apple cider based sauce. This had the rich, slightly gamey flavor of well made beef tongue.

Our palates were given a nice respite with "Zambuca Caviar"…….

Somebody in the kitchen is playing with spherification! I'm usually not a big fan of sweet anise flavors, but this really did the trick.

I really couldn't do much after this so the Missus had the Grapefruit Semifreddo.

Dessert also came with a hard cider, a Eric Bordelet, Sidre Doux Tendre from France which the Missus really enjoyed. I ordered another Midas Touch as my dessert.

The Missus and I really enjoyed our dinner at Sage. The staff made us feel comfortable. When I told "Bond" that we'd be exchanging plates and sharing, he encouraged it. The service was excellent, efficient, but not hovering nor stuffy. We had a great time……the GM of the restaurant even came over to chat. We never felt rushed and the meal was well paced, clocking in at just a tad over 2 hours. The bill wasn't too bad either. I gave you all the prices for the starters. The Chef's Tasting Menu clocks in at $120, the beer tasting an extra $50, so we're talking about $300 total. I'm kind of glad that my other four choices didn't pan out……

Sage in Aria Resort and Casino
3732 Las Vegas Blvd South
Las Vegas, NV 89109

Dinner at Kensington Grill

July 3, 2012 ed fromyuma American/New American Restaurants, Fine Dining, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!

mmm-yoso!!! is Kirk's foodblog, and he posts about all things food in San Diego and the world; sometimes Cathy shares meals with us here too; but today, ed (from Yuma) is posting about Kensington Grill (in San Diego).

Kensington Grill has also closed. if this keeps happening, I may not be allowed in some establishments in the future.

Sometimes bad luck is good luck in disguise. Case in point – Tina and I had arrived in San Diego for a brief vacation in the latter half of June. Of course, I had a list of restaurants with locations and phone numbers etc., but we knew we would only be able to make it to a few of the places on the list. Anyway, the first place we wanted to go to didn't have its regular menu on that Monday night. The next place was closed because it was Monday, and I had not read the website carefully. By this point, we were ravenous, and only one other restaurant in the area was on my list. That is how we ended up at Kensington Grill:

The restaurant is moderately large with an attractive bar occupying the central area:

Tina and I were both impressed by the tasteful and understated dining areas. This is a view from our table:

I really had no idea what kind of food to expect, and the menu was full of various choices listed in categories like Soups and Salads, Boards, Bites/Sides, Bowls, Small Plates, Large Plates, and Hog Bar. My mind boggles pretty easily when faced with the unusual (and at my age, there is a lot of unusual in this world). So Tina and I spent some time going over the menu trying to figure out a dinner plan.

Eventually, we decided to choose a wine and then select a range of dishes that would complement the vino and show off the cuisine of the restaurant. I was intrigued by the Tangent Albariño ($36) – a white wine from Edna Valley in Santa Barbara County – so we ordered a bottle:

This was certainly a fine way to begin a meal. Albariño is the best white wine grape in Spain, but I have seen or tasted very few bottles from California. In the glass, the wine had an intriguing floral aroma, and in the mouth, the initial dryness on the palate became lush and rich and complex and fruity. Flavors exploded on the palate. Unexpectedly good. And a good value in a restaurant wine.

Our server, Edson (no relation), had described the soup of the day ($8.50) so well that Tina and I were determined to split a bowl:

The predominant ingredient in this chilled soup was ripe creamy California avocado, its natural sweetness set off with a slight sour (citrus?) note. The avocado was matched by intense fennel flavors. I had never imagined those two things combined, but like experienced lovers, they danced together beautifully. The chunks of crab added some texture and proved again that the inventor of California rolls understood flavor pairings. The fresh herbs and drizzle of chili oil completed the dish.

Our server also recommended the calamari salad – called kg calamari on the menu ($10):

The tender calamari had been lightly breaded and fried and then tossed with shredded cabbages, sliced sweet peppers, bean sprouts, chopped cilantro, crushed peanuts, and sweet chili sauce. Altogether like some Southeast Asian salad. Crisp and refreshing. A very nice contrast with the soup, and Tina and I loved it.

We felt like we should try something from the Boards category – a customer's selection of three ($14), four ($18), or five ($21) different bruschettas, each cut into three pieces and all presented on a wooden paddle:

One was somewhat Mediterranean/traditional with tomato, cucumber, artichoke, and feta cheese:

As you would expect, the taste focused on those fresh ingredients, but instead of the standard artichoke hearts I was expecting, puréed marinated artichoke was spread across the bruschetta before the chopped fresh ingredients were added.

Completely different, the crabapple and brie bruschetta with carmelized onion jam featured the smooth, rich, melted cheese contrasting with the crunchy bread and subdued sweet flavors of the fruit:

In the middle bruschetta, a sweet fig/date spread covered the crunchy bread, all of which was topped with bits of speck and lardo:

Rich intense tastes. Sweet, salty, smoky, crunchy. Reminded me of childhood, when I would dip my breakfast bacon in pancake syrup.

In retrospect, we had already eaten enough food for a normal dinner. However, we had placed our entire order at the beginning of the meal, so more food kept arriving.

Earlier that day Tina had mentioned a place in Phoenix that specializes in chicken and waffles, so when I saw shrimp waffle ($13) as a small plate on the menu, I had to have it:

Weird as it sounded, this was tasty. The waffle had standard waffle flavors enhanced with jack cheese and scallions. The shrimp were fresh, perfectly cooked, and flavorful. The buttery creole sauce, with slices of shallot and red fresno pepper, brought the whole thing together. Good and rich. More memories of childhood breakfasts – but also like no waffle dish I’d ever tasted before.

The last item was from the Bowls section of the menu – the sautéed mussels ($12):

This was a difficult dish to photograph, as is evident by the picture. The plump and fresh flavored mussels were served in a black frying pan (so little light and minimal color contrast for the mussels). The bivalves were bathing in a standout spicy green curry sauce with abundant kaffir lime and creamy coconut milk. The slices of toasted bread were perfect for soaking up sauce. Unfortunately, neither Tina nor I had much room left at this point. So we fished out the tasty mussels, appreciated the flavorful broth, and ate almost none the crispy toasted bread slices.

All in all, we got lucky and had a good time. The chef skillfully brought together techniques and flavors from around the world. The setting was pleasant, the service good, and the timing of the meal excellent. The only problem was that we ordered too much. Honestly, I am surprised that there doesn't seem to be a lot of buzz about Kensington Grill. Perhaps the menu or head chef are new. In any case, Both Tina and I are eager to eat here again.

Kensington Grill, 4055 Adams Ave., 619-281-4014. Open for dinner 5-9:30 on Monday through Thursday and from 5-10 on Friday and Saturday evenings.

Jeremy’s-on-the-Hill: Fine Dining near Julian

July 28, 2011 ed fromyuma Fine Dining, What Ed Eats -You too can be like Ed!

Kirk is working, Cathy is eating, and ed (from Yuma) just got back from Julian:

Tina and I were spending a few days in Julian to escape Yuma in July and go someplace with dog friendly activities and restaurants. Jeremy's on the Hill in Wynola, about 3 miles west of Julian, is the most culinarily ambitious eatery in the area though it looks pretty ordinary from the outside:

The chef, Jeremy Manley, is a local kid, only about 25 years old, and a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu in San Francisco. Several denizens of Julian told us they were delighted he chose to open his restaurant "back home." His menu stresses that he tries to use organic and local ingredients.

We were also happy to learn that canine companions are very welcome on the comfortable outside patio, where we had our two meals:

In addition to a decent selection of local craft beers (including several varieties of Alesmith and Lost Abbey in bottles), the beverage list contained a range of reasonably priced wines (many local) and numerous reds and whites were available by the glass – this is an Orfila chardonnay ($8):

The quality stemware was changed every time a new wine was served. The waiter also consulted each bottle's date of opening so that we were not served any tired wines by the glass.

We accompanied one set of entrees with Fancy Quest ($41), a good Lodi old vine Zinfandel, from Jessie's Grove, a small producer of whom I had never heard. It was a full flavored wine with a very appropriate label – considering how many horses we saw in the Julian area:

The next night we chose a brightly fruity Orfila Sangiovese ($32 and served a few degrees warmer than is my preference):
Our first meal began with some slices of an artisan French baguette with a nice crunchy crust, accompanied by green curry hummus. Never had green curry hummus before, but the flavors melded nicely with the bread. A great start to a meal:

The next night no bread. Not sure why.

That visit, we ordered onion rings (small size $9) as an appetizer:

The thin batter crust cracked and shattered as you bit into it. Extra crispy. And the onion slices were thick slices of sweet onion:
In most respects, the rings were excellent. They did, however, leave a light greasy aftertaste in the mouth and a slick of fry oil on the plate:
We also sampled a pair of soups. The cup of gazpacho (the soup of the day both nights) was fresh and wonderful ($5):

The quality of the fresh tomatoes shined throughout. The dice of zucchini, yellow squash, red onion and fresh peppers added flavor and varied the texture. A citrus sourness and a jalapeno heat balanced the cool sweetness of the tomatoes.

Here's a bowl of the same soup the next night – equally tasty:
The other soup we tried is a regular item on the menu – lobster bisque ($8):

It was clear that the Sherry had been added to the soup at the end as the aroma and flavor of the wine hit the nose and tongue first. Then the rich flavor of lobster filled the mouth – followed by a long, smooth and creamy finish that flowed over the palate. Well done.

We also had two different salads. The first night, we chose the salad with mixed greens, a round of goat cheese, pecans, and orange slices, all dressed with a combination of orange vinaigrette and black truffle oil ($10):

We agreed that this salad was a great success in every way. The disparate ingredients (baby lettuces, orange slices, pecans, and goat cheese) worked very well together. The greens were clearly sourced from farmers' markets. Look at the baby crinkly red leaves in the left foreground joined at the base, not cut and separated into separate leaves. And the dressing was truly superb, the pronounced black truffle taste and aroma given the whole salad a rustic earthy woodsy flavor.

The next evening, we chose a salad as one main course (part of three courses – including a bowl of the gazpacho and dessert – for $25). Again, the baby greens were fresh and tasty, and they were accompanied with cucumber slices, avocado slices, and cherry tomatoes. The salad was topped with a roasted chicken breast, perfectly cooked, still moist and tender. The dressing, with a lemon vinaigrette this evening, had the same wonderful truffle oil:

I thought the chicken was somewhat under flavored, but Tina pointed out that it went perfectly with the rest of the salad. This was not an entrée of roasted chicken on a bed of lettuce, but rather a salad in which the chicken was an important part, but just a part. The flavorful woodsy and lemony dressing made the chicken as well as the vegetables taste better.

Over the course of the two evenings, we shared three meat centered entrées. The blue cheese bison burger ($18) was an easy choice since Tina loves blue cheese burgers and I was intrigued that chef Manley uses bison raised by a local rancher:

As you can see, it was a thick, slightly charred, hand formed patty topped with a triangle of creamy blue cheese. Just enough red leaf lettuce, red onion, and red tomato. All on a ciabatta roll. I have no idea about the sauce on the burger because I hardly noticed its flavor.

The accompaniment for the bison burger was something new to me – fresh cut California corn mixed with farro, which the waiter spelled out and identified as an Egyptian grain (in that case, shouldn't it be spelled Pharaoh?). According to Wikipedia, farro seems to be a name used for three different types of primitive wheats – the sort of things that ancient Egyptians would have actually eaten. Not usually made into bread or pasta, it's normally served in the whole grain or berry fashion as in this dish. While unusual, I appreciated this accompaniment more than something like french fries. The sweet corn and whole-grain flavors and chewy textures were a nice contrast to the rest of the plate.

Another great thing about this burger was that it was prepared rare. In fact, our helpful and friendly waiter explained the lean meat dries out when the patty is overcooked. This is what the burger (minus the top bun) looked like cut it in half to share with Tina:

Notice how the cheese has melted and how juicy the burger is. It was as good as it looks.

We also shared a gigantic pork chop ($28):

It was accompanied by three nicely cooked asparagus spears and a slightly al dente sliced baby carrot. The chop and vegetables lay on a mound of garlic mashed potatoes:
I never imagined that the mashed potatoes would contain whole garlic cloves, but they did:
While the pork chop was more than we could eat, it had a nice charred smoky flavor and was perfectly cooked, lightly pink and wonderfully moist:
Our other meaty entrée consisted of lamb chops ($25), their rib bones circled by a single ring of French fried onion, lying around a hill of smoked cheddar polenta topped with bitter greens:

The polenta was truly wonderful. The smoky cheese flavor played a supporting role while the sweet rich creaminess of the cornmeal took center stage. The menu said the greens were spinach, but they tasted unlike any spinach I have ever eaten. They seemed to be cut from much larger leaves than spinach and were chewy with a very pronounced bitterness. My guess is some type of mustard green instead. However, I am not complaining. The contrasts between the starch and vegetable made each of them taste better and spotlighted the differences in flavor, texture, and appearance. In my mind, this was the best of the three sides, and each of them was very good and original.

The lamb chops were lamb chops, medium rare, meaty, and perfectly okay. Looking back, I'm amazed that the least impressive entrée item was perfectly prepared lamb chops. That speaks well to the overall quality of the food.

The second night we had watermelon granita for dessert – which came with the three for $25 offer:

Exactly perfect. Light, cool, sweet, and redolent of the best parts of watermelon. The berries offered a tart contrast. A great way to end a meal.

Tina and I were generally very happy at Jeremy's on the Hill. The service, good both nights, was absolutely exceptional the first evening. While there were a few glitches, there were no disasters. The menu offers a limited number of choices, but the chef seems really good at the preparations. While nothing was wildly creative, there were many original touches, and I was truly impressed by much of what I ate. I would happily – no make that joyfully – return.

Jeremy's On the Hill
4354 Highway 78
Wynola, California
760-765-1587
Open for Lunches and Dinners Daily, and for Brunches on the Weekend.