Mexico City – Taqueria Orinoco and Morning in La Condesa

As we were finishing up dinner at Maximo Bistrot; I asked the Missus if She wanted dessert. She said "yes", but not from Maximo. The Missus had something else in mind for "dessert". As we walked out of the restaurant, She told me, "I want tacos for dessert"! Tacos? Well, ok then, I had a place just a few blocks away that was still open in mind. Taqueria Orinoco.

There was already a line forming when we arrived at the taco shop right on busy Avenida Insurgentes.

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The line moved fairly quickly and we got up to the counter to order in like 15 minutes or so.

From here, you place your order, are given a number if you are eating in, and if the place is buzzing like on this evening, you wait until a table is ready.

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And the place was definitely hopping on this evening.

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The tacos here are Monterrey style; that would be Northern….so "trompo" is similar to Al Pastor. We ordered one each of the three on the menu. I think what the Missus enjoyed the most were the salsas; ranging from mild to a really nice and tangy cilantro, to a totally scalding Piquin, which I first ran into during my trip to Paredoncito. The Missus really loved it; but paid the price!

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The tres tacos came on a metal tray with griddled onions and really good "smashed" potatoes, basically cooked twice…..my favorite part of the meal.

DSC00097 IMG_1671Our favorite taco was the chicharron, slightly crunchy outside, really fatty, though perhaps a bit on the dry side. The res was dry, chewy, and pretty bland. The trompo, was like Al Pastor, but not nearly as sweet. The tortillas were really good, pliable, but up to the task of enrobing the fillings without breaking. The corn flavor was good and straight-forward.

IMG_1670 DSC00090And while these are considered to be on the expensive side, with water this still came out to just over five bucks US.

As we left there was a line to the end of the block…….

Taqueria Orinoco
Avenida Insurgentes Sur 253, Roma Norte
06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Hours
Sun – Wed  Noon – 1am
Thurs          Noon – 3am
Fri – Sat      Noon – 5am

Needless to say; we were pretty stuffed, and we rolled on back to where we were staying. I slept like a baby, at least until the birds started chirping in the morning. Still, we both fell back asleep after that.

There really wasn't any reason to get up early, the Missus had only one thing on the agenda for the day. We finally rose around 8 and left the hotel soon thereafter.

La Condesa is quite charming. I wish I took more photos. The area is known for murals; like this one across the street from where we were staying.

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The neighborhood is quite charming.

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And along with "people watching"; there were two things we especially loved checking out.

The squirrels doing the "tightrope walk" on powerlines to get from tree to tree.

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And the dogs…..and some of the dog walkers who did a pretty amazing job.

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We were really enjoying ourselves…….

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Thanks for stopping by!

Mexico City – Chiquitito Café and Maximo Bistrot

*** Warning – this a is a fairly long and wordy post. 

A few weeks before leaving for Budapest, I was already planning our fall/winter trip….the Missus made a request; She wanted something "in between". Waiting those 4-5 months just wasn't going to cut it for Her. So, I went ahead and made plans for two "long weekend" trips.

We'd been trying to make time for CDMX for a couple of years, but could just never find the time. The time was right to finally make that trip. The planning was quick, since it was a mere two months in advance, we weren't able to make reservations for Pujol, but with the help of one of Frankie's favorite Aunties "Alle", who has family in CDMX and usually goes every year, we got some good info.

We decided to fly out of Tijuana Airport using CBX. There were direct flights to Mexico City and business class was about half the price as flying out of San Diego or LAX. Alle, who took care of Frankie, dropped us off at the CBX facility. For some reason I wasn't able to buy the CBX tickets online in advance; though I did complete our FMM forms ahead of time, which did save us a few minutes. Purchasing the round-trip Cross Border Express tickets only took ten minutes. The rest of it….well, it took us nearly 90 minutes to get through Immigration! Crazy. Still, we'd budgeted more than enough time and easily made our flight. We had airport transfer set-up so we basically exited the plane, walked right out to the terminal, to our waiting car, and straight into Mexico City traffic. Yeeesh…..  Our guesthouse was but 8 miles from the airport, but it took 45 minutes to get there!

Alle had recommended that we stay in La Condesa, which turned out to be the perfect place after a busy day of checking out the city. The tree lined streets, restaurants, bakeries, coffee shops, and relaxed vibe, along with the really warm and friendly folks made our stay wonderful. The location was excellent; close to where the Missus wanted to visit on our first day, and since we do walk a bit; an easy enough walk to the Centro Historical…..also, when we got tired; Uber in CDMX is super cheap, safe, reliable, and all the drivers we had were very friendly.

We stayed at the Casa Condesa Amatlan 84, a very discreet, comfortable, location. The service was wonderful. DSC00025

We arrived at the hotel, freshened up a bit. Casa Condesa was really good about making sure you always had drinking water and the folks working there we so very helpful and friendly.

We headed out just to walk around the area. We were a bit out of sorts at first since the streets aren't quite in a grid, there are diagonals, parallel street with different names, roundabouts, and all kinds of stuff. The streetlights are often hard to see; there aren't cross signals at many intersections; so you kind of have to check the lights in the middle of the intersection; and just kinda go with the flow.

In need of a break; it was also a bit humid and warm, we found a little café named Chiquitito Café on Alfonso Reyes and decided to take a break for a couple of cold brews. Which ran us 45 Pesos; think about $2.35 US!

It was a bit on the weak side; but the guys working here ere very friendly and actually spoke English to us, and the coffee was nice and chilled. And it was a nice little break.

It was also fun watching the guy selling cell phone cases come on over and two of the guys working in the coffee shop come on out to shop!

IMG_7959 IMG_1643In fact, one of the guys actually bought a case! Go figure.

While we weren't particularly impressed with the cold brew; this was a nice introduction to the friendliness of the folks in CDMX and how wonderfully social they are.

Chiquitito Café
Alfonso Reyes 232
06100 Cuauhtémoc, CDMX, Mexico

I had managed to make dinner reservations at the highly regarded Maximo Bistrot Local, considered to be one of the top restaurants in CDMX and Latin America. We had intended to walk; after all it was only a mile-and-a-quarter away, a nice easy walk, but as we were halfway down Vicente Suarez, the lightning and thunder started, then it came down in buckets. It was an amazing, and from what I got to understand from the locals, very typical summer thunder storm. Our umbrellas were not up to the task, so we sought cover and I requested an Uber which promptly cancelled when it was five minutes away. I then called the restaurant who promised to hold our table until 730; our reservations were for 7pm, and it was nearly 650 by now. Our next Uber arrived a few minutes later and we were on our way; only to get to basically a standstill about a quarter mile away from the restaurant. We'd basically gone less than a mile in 20 minutes! By now the storm had passed and the skies were clear. We thanked our driver and walked the last quarter mile. Getting to Maximo right at 730pm! Crazy….

Anyway, we were seated outside; things were really nice and pleasant after the deluge. It was time for dinner…but first, a well earned cocktail!

I went with the Mescalina de Fresca y Chile de Arbol.

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This was pretty mild in the Mezcal department; but the combination of salty-heat, and orange made this quite refreshing.

The Missus got the Julep 16.

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Which was also on the mild side.

While we were looking over the menus, a party of two gentlemen left. One of them, by the name of Jorge came on over, and very nicely made some recommendations! Apparently, he's a regular. He'd tell us what not to order ("this is not very good…..but don't tell the chef, ok?") and what his favorites on the menu were. We'd have folks engaging us this way during our entire trip. It just made things so much more fun!

I'll try to include prices as I remember them. To figure out the conversion to US $ at this moment in time; divide by twenty – i.e. $1.04/US = 20$ MXN.

Things started out with an Eggplant dip, smokey, perhaps a bit too salty, with an amazing bread. Perhaps among the best I've had; the crust so crusty and crunchy, the interior soft and fluffly, with just the perfect "chew".

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We started with the Pacific Scallops (290 $MXN); which were served on a tostada.

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We loved the herbs on this; the scallops weren't as sweet as I expected though it was texturally perfect. The sauce was apparently made with Chicatanas, flying ants, which seemed to add a bit of earthiness to the dish according to my tastebuds. The crunch of the tostada completed the dish.

Next up, the Octopus Ceviche (230 $MXN).

IMG_1656 DSC00043The octopus was  amazingly tender; I'm thinking sous vide? The liquid provided had a combination of lime and tomato and was a bit too acidic for us….and you're talking to folks who love Peruvian Cebiche! The liquid kind of over-powered all the flavors and the wonderfully smooth avocado cream was overwhelmed. The blue corn tostadas had a wonderful corn flavor and texture to them.

Things started getting from decent to great when the next item arrived. We'd ordered the Porcini Mushroom Soup (175 $ MXN). I made Porcini Mushroom Soup at least two dozen times this winter so I wanted to see how this compared to what I make.

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While a bit milder in overall mushroom flavor; you couldn't beat the velvet texture of this soup, which was amazing. I also loved (and learned) the toasted breadcrumbs which added a wonderful crunchy-nutty contrast to the dish. It's something I'm going to incorporate into my soup when I start making it during the fall! Very nice.

Undoubtedly, the best dish of the night, and one of the top three of the trip, was the Roasted Quail stuffed with Veal and Foie Gras (450 $MXN).

DSC00060 IMG_1662This was definitely an OH-EM-GEE dish. The quail was perhaps the most tender and moist I've ever had. Even the usual rubbery legs were so very soft and juicy. Paired with a moist, rich, and decadent veal and foie gras pate, this was simply heaven. Mild rich sweet-liveriness just went so well with the mildly gamey quail. And that texture…….

Jorge had recommended the quail and also the Flat Iron Steak (450 $MXN), something that I'd usually not order.

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The beef was fork tender, cooked a perfectly medium rare, and had that wonderful, complex, mild gamey-pasture flavor to it. The "mole de olla" sauce had a pleasant, complex, mild sweetness to it. And the spinach and cheese sauce was so delicious as well.

The pacing was a bit off; the service professional, but a bit stiff and the least friendly of all of our meals in CDMX.

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We enjoyed sitting outside. After the storm passed it became a beautiful night.

I'm not sure we'd dine here again….but man; perhaps that quail will call us back?

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Maximo Bistrot Local
Tonalá 133, Roma
06700 Cuauhtemoc, CDMX, Mexico

Funny thing, when I asked he Missus about dessert, She said "no, there's something else I want….."

Stay Tuned!

Where in the world were we?

Even though we'd been back "home" from our last trip for just a few weeks….that "bug", that desire….the wanderlust hit us. We decided to take a trip over the weekend to a place we'd had on our "list" for a while. And enjoyed it more than we'd thought we would.

From the history and sights….

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From the rather Bohemian neighborhoods to the grand wide streets….

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And the history……

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El Paragas

The colors…..

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It was all amazing.

As was just taking a step back…..and looking at what was happening around you.

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And of course the food…..

From the upscale…..

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To the "classic"…..

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To the everyday…..

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There was nothing that we thought of as mediocre….a very amazing thing; at least for us.

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To say we ate well is an understatement.

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And yet, even beyond the food, the one thing that stays with us is the warmth and kindness of the people…..

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I realize that I'm soooooo way behind on our travel posts, while trying to keep up here at home. I do appreciate your visits!

Thanks for stopping by!

Amazing Camarones (shrimp) in Paredoncito (Benito Juarez, Sonora)

After a recuperative breakfast at Taquería Jiménez, we headed out with "D" and did some errands…..like hit the mall and stuff. By the time we returned to the hotel, Samuelo had recovered, and soon enough "D" Dad picked us up and we headed to the family compound in an small fishing village named Paredoncito, located at an estuary on the Gulf of California.

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Walk to the back of the compound and this is what you see…..an amazing sight.

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Horse drawn carts were ferrying people and shellfish back and forth from the boats. I think they must have a clam factory next door…… Mainly because I was literally standing on a mountain of clam shells!

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And this had just been brought over……

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Those had actually been prepped for one of the dishes.

The first thing that came out was this…….

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Mexico - Ciudad Obregon 2013 111This has got to be some of the best shrimp I've ever had! Samuelo was totally in heaven…..Sweet, so tender, so full of flavor.

They also wanted us to try the local chile peppers which were piquins….these tiny peppers are hot, but not unbearable.

The aguachile that came out next was just plain amazing….

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They really didn't mess around with this, it was simple, lime juice, salt, onion, and some hot sauce……man this was good. Probably the best I've ever had. I'll never look at aguachile the same again.

After stuffing our selves silly with shrimp, tostadas, etc, etc…..

I headed out back.

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There was something mesmerizing about watching the boats come in and go back out….then things slowed down as the sun began to set. It was very beautiful in its own way.

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Soon enough, "D"'s Dad said the magic words…"vamos"!

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It was time for us to pack up and head back to Ciudad Obregon……

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For….would you believe it….dinner????

Ciudad Obregon: Taquería Jiménez

I recently managed to catch up with Akira and his beautiful Missus on one of their trips down to San Diego; which reminded me, I had promised some follow-up posts after our quick trip to Ciudad Obregon, but never followed up….sigh…what a tease!

So here's quick post for a Saturday night.

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So what happens after you attend an epic wedding in Ciudad Obregon which ends with shot of tequila watching the bride and Q-nito do Gagnam style in the middle of the street at 4am?

Well. you wake at 8am and have Akira and his now wife take you to get birria! Well at least Q-nito and I…….Samuelo was incommunicado, must have been tough challenging the band's singers to a dance-off, huh?

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"D" drove us down a couple of streets to the just the perfect place for me. A streetside stand by the name of Taquería Jiménez. The specialty, birria de chivo. By now, "D" had concluded that we weren't after "gringo food", we wanted the real deal and this place was, without a doubt, just the perfect remedy after an epic evening.

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You know, whether it's Sapa, Hanoi, Luang Prabang, Cusco, or heck, even Chula Vista, I've found some of the most soulful, hearty, and honest food at places like this. Taquería Jiménez was no exception.

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Rich, belly coating, hearty food, with the right amount of carbs somehow revitalizes you….or at least just makes you right mentally.

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I don't think I need to add much more.

Though I'll leave you with this little tidbit. I did a search looking for an address. I finally found it on one of the those "food sites"….well actually let's give it up for foursquare.

For some reason, I was interested in the comments on this place. I went and did a translation of the first one which said, ""Tacos to revive after a long night of partying"……how true!

Taquería Jiménez
California 720 (e/ Jesús García Corona y 6 de Abril)
Ciudad Obregón, Sonora 

They just do it right in Ciudad Obregon

This past weekend, I did a world-wind weekend in Ciudad Obregon. I wouldn't blame you if you've never heard of C. Obregon, I hadn't. But I'll tell you this much, if you asked me to return tomorrow, I'd be on a plane in the blink of an eye. Two of my good buddies…we'll call them Samuelo and Q-nito came with me to attend the wedding of our good friend Akira, who I've mentioned in previous posts…. How a young man from Sendai ended up marrying a wonderful young lady from Ciudad Obregon, well that's a story for another day. In fact, I'll leave it up to you to tell me if you'd be interested in posts about this trip; which included flying out of Tijuana Airport….getting to the airport was an adventure in itself. Oh, and if you've never heard of Aereo Calafia before; neither had I, and we travel all the time!

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They really know how to do it up here…. It was quite amazing to go from the formality of the wedding…..

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To the reception….which went on until 2 in the morning! The band was amazing……

Then there was Q-nito, who just couldn't stop dancing….though it was Samuelo who challenged the various musicians to a "dance off"…..

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Which is how we three earned our reputations….Samuelo talks to anybody, Q-nito dances with everybody….and me? Well, I was pretty much sidelined with a little injury…..

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So of course….I drank everything!

Then there was the after-party…….the highlite of which was watching the bride and Q-nito do Gangnam style in the middle of the street at 4am.

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Two hours of sleep later found us having Birria de Chivo for breakfast at a roadside stand.

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Then it was off to buy gifts, followed by a road trip to the sea side village of Paredoncito in the municipality of Benito Juarez, Sonora.

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the horse drawn carts ferried people and products back and forth from the boats….it is shrimp season here…..I had some of the best shrimp ever.

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After sunset we headed back to Ciudad Obregon….to the bride's house, for what else, well dinner of course! While the local carne asada (it's cattle country) was grilling over the mesquite…..

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The bride's father waved us to the front of the house…where we were greeted with a Mariachi Band!

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Q-nito and I ended our meals in Ciudad Obregon with adobado from a stand in the back of the hotel for breakfast. I went with the dorados.

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And a double helping of what the owner of the place calls "power"…..

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We loved our time in Ciudad Obregon; the bride, her warm and generous parents, and friends were wonderful hosts. We can't wait to return the favor….or even, return to Ciudad Obregon! The only thing hotter than the triple digit weather was the warmth we felt as guests…three Asians in Obregon!

So there you go…….I'll let you decide if I should write more detailed posts about our trip. I've got a ton of stories….and heck, there's even an appearance by this guy……

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And maybe even this…….

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Hope you're having a great week!

 

Mr Choby’s, San Luis R.C., Sonora

Well folks, since Kirk has been sharing stories about his international travel, it is only fair that ed (from Yuma) should share his latest foreign adventure with mmm-yoso readers.

What with the sick economy and the exchange rate at 12 pesos to the dollar, it seemed like a good time for Tina and I to cross the border for a night of, we hoped, reasonably priced fine dining.

Our taxi driver actually had to stop and ask directions (and he was a man) because Mr Choby's is fairly far from the border on Calle Obregon and not a common tourist destination. Since we were driven directly into the parking lot, I have no exterior picture, but it is on the north side of the street and its logo features a lighthouse and a Mariner's wheel. The inside is modestly and tastefully decorated, though you will find no white tablecloths:

IMG_0098 Using our best Spanglish (a pretty feeble excuse for communication) and a lot of pointing at the menu, we were able to order. We started with margaritas on the rocks:

IMG_0092 Along with the drinks, arrived some rather ordinary yellow cheese spread thing and some rather good crackers:
IMG_0095 Both Tina and I preferred dipping the crackers into the complex and spicy table salsa:

IMG_0097 For our first course, we decided on steamed clams. They arrived dripping in butter on top of some grains of rice on a large plate. This was a generous portion and the clams were fresh and balanced between tender and chewy:IMG_0106 While not the best rendition of steamed clams that I have ever had (I would've liked a little garlic), they were quite serviceable and their flavor was enhanced by squeezes of lime juice:
IMG_0108 Along with the clams came our bottle of L.A. Cetto chenin blanc. This dry and fruity white wine from the Guadalupe Valley, which we chose from the modest list of about a dozen Mexican wines, paired nicely with our meal:

IMG_0110 We then each had a marlin taco. While not much resembling the smoked marlin tacos at Mariscos German, these were things of culinary craftsmanship in their own way. The lightly smoked marlin had been cooked with green chilies and a bit of onion and was balanced in the soft grilled flour tortilla  by typical Sonoran white melty cheese. This picture shows the taco opened up just before I spooned in the flavorful salsa:

IMG_0113 This taco was very good, but not "in your face" powerful. What I mean  is that the flavor was complex, multilayered, and subtle, adjectives that I do not often use when describing Mexican food. The next time I have this, and I sure hope there is a next time, I will simply spoon salsa all over the taco and eat it as if it were a mini marlin quesadilla.

For her main course, Tina chose the camarones chipocludos, which turned out to be eight large shrimp in a wondrous rich and creamy sauce with just a hint of smoky chipotle flavor in the background:
IMG_0117 The shrimp were of excellent size and quality and perfectly cooked, and the sauce was a wonderful complement to them. The main courses were accompanied by okay coleslaw and a tasty truncated cone of buttery rice. We also received a basket of toasty bread, which was great dipped into the that great creamy chipotle sauce:

IMG_0119 Since Tina and I habitually pass plates back and forth, I wanted a dish that would balance hers. When I saw combinacion jarocha on the menu, I thought that would be a good choice. In addition, it would let me see how the restaurant approached the traditional Veracruz presentation:
IMG_0122 I was very impressed by both the look and the taste of this dish. Sometimes Veracruz sauces can be much like an Italian pasta sauce, with green peppers, olives, and capers in a thick tomato sauce. At Mr. Choby's, the chef had decided to present the mariscos integrated with  an assortment of vegetables. The fish fillet pieces were fresh and tender as was the octopus, and the shrimp, while smaller than Tina's, were also very good. Fresh tomatoes, seafood juices, and olive oil were the basis of the brothy sauce. Even with the frozen peas and carrots, the collection of vegetables (in particular the seeded and deveined jalapeno slices) was excellent and provided color balance and textual variation as well as a variety of tastes. The jalapeno flavor, in particular, added a nice touch of picante spice and capsicum flavor without overwhelming the other ingredients:

IMG_0123 We were happy. Our mouths were happy. And when we got the check, our pocketbooks were not too unhappy:

IMG_0127 Even adding a generous tip for the friendly service and $3 each way for the cab rides to and from the border, and we'd had a pretty economical night out.