Spanish Restaurants and Cuisine – Page 3

Granada: The Alhambra and Cafe Opera 5

March 18, 2016 mmm-yoso Granada, Sandwiches, Spain, Spanish Restaurants and Cuisine, Travel

The main reason for visiting Granada was The Alhambra of course. This grand Moorish Palace resides on top of a hill overlooking Granada. I had bought tickets well in advance and printed them out in the bookstore the night before. This enabled us to take the "short cut", up Cuesta de Gomerez, which was basically right outside our apartment door.

Right up the street was Puerta de las Granadas and it was a nice short walk to the "Justice Gate", the original entrance to the Alhambra. Because we'd printed out our tickets beforehand, we could use this gate to access the palace. Our designated time for Palacios Nazares was 9am, so we had some time to check out the Alcazaba, a large looming fortress and tower, the oldest part of the Alhambra.

In Arabic, Qa'lat al-Hamra' ("Alhambra") means "red castle" and in the morning light, this structure, which dates back to the 13th century did indeed look like a "red castle". If you wind your way though the passages and walkways, then climb up to the tower, you'll be rewarded with a stunning view, which also highlights the strategic location of the Alcazaba. The view is wonderful and is well worth the climb up the tower……..hopefully, it will be a rather clear day and the view will be like this.

You need to get in line for the Palacios Nazaries, the Moorish Royal Palace complex. There are so many features of the palace; like the Courtyard of the Myrtles; basically the central courtyard.

The Mocárabe (Stalactite Work) is amazing as is the symmetry. This is the ceiling of the Grand Hall of the Ambassadors, the wooden ceiling is made up of 8,017 wood inlays and is room itself is a perfect cube.

You could spend hours here just admiring the tile work and visiting places like the Courtyard of the Lions.

And while a sort of fatigue set in; I started looking for random and whimsical features to balance out the perfection of the place, I never got tired of the view. Near the middle top of the photo is the Church of San Nicolás, at the bottom is the Paseo de los Tristes (Walk of the Dead Ones), once the funeral procession route in the city.

We exited the palace and passed through some quaint gardens and then a series of towers. This is the "Torre de los Picos" (Tower of the Points).

Ending up at Generalife Gardens.

The Court of la Acequia is especially pretty.

As is the view of Palacios Nazaries.

After exiting, we headed down Bib Ramblas and ended up where we started.

We then headed to Mercado Agustin, but other than buying some really olive oil were quite underwhelmed….I mean, the jamon here was cut by machine! By this time, we needed a bit of a break. Down the small street next to the market we found this place.

We had intended on just getting some espresso here, but were feeling a bit puckish as well. So the Missus decided we should go ahead and have a Bocadillo as well, which sounded just fine to me. So She had me order a jamon and an anchovy (!) bocadillo. One of the things we really enjoyed about this little shop were the bottles of roasted garlic infused olive oil…..which folks just poured like crazy on their bread.

That Jamon Bocadillo must have been pretty good….because I never even had a shot at it!

The Anchovy version was too fishy-oily-salty for the Missus, but I kinda liked it with the garlic olive oil.

It was nice and briny, man that infused olive oil was good. We quickly learned that it was okay to pour like a gallon of that stuff on your bread. There were some interesting photos in this shop; when I exited the restroom, the older woman sitting at one of the tables pointed to the photo of what looked like the Emperor of Japan on the wall and said something to me in Spanish. Sorry to say I didn't understand.

We really enjoyed this little shop and would return on our way to the train station as we left Granada. Folks here seemed more friendly (and folks in Spain were pretty friendly as a whole) than anywhere else in Spain.

Cafe Opera 5
Ivaro de Bazán 12
Granada, Spain

Granada: A walk around town and Saint Germain

February 20, 2016 mmm-yoso Granada, Spain, Spanish Restaurants and Cuisine, Travel

After a much needed nap, we decided to take a walk around Granada before heading to our dinner location. We took off in a random direction to the end of Calle Animas finding that it was a shortcut to Calle Cuchilleros and Catolicos.

And ended up in this pretty little square; named Plaza del Padre Suarez.

Lovely colors…..

Right across the street from the square is the Casa de los Tiros, which is now a museum. I loved the coat of arms above the door. A sword stands poised over a heart with the inscription "El corazón manda" (the heart is in command).

There's a restaurant at the end of the plaza, we impulsively made reservations for dinner the next night…..I thought we might want something other than tapas by then.

The Missus saw some stairs leading in the direction of the Alhambra….of course we had to head up those stairs.

We loved the arteries that lead down along the way and the views of the Sierra Nevada mountain range in the background.

I thought we had seen enough, but the Missus was determined to make it to the top.

At the end of the trail was what looked like a fortress….this is the Hotel Alhambra.

Heading back down we meandered through the streets of the Realejo neighborhood, taking time to stop and admire the Iglesia de Santo Domingo.

We ended up on Carrera de la Virgen and really enjoyed walking around. At the end of the street is Plaza de Humilladera and nice green space. For some reason, I really love this photo.

And the Fuente de las Granadas.

Notice the pomegranates? You'll see them everywhere in Granada, as it is the official symbol of the city. In fact, the pomegranate is called "granada" is Spanish….makes sense, huh?

There seems to be so many fountains in Granada. This one, on Plaza del Campilo is named Fuente de las Batallas - the Fountain of the Battles.

According to this post, this is where folks in Granada celebrate their soccer victories.

There was a reason why we were down in this area and killing time. We had reservations for dinner at a shop named La Oliva. The owner holds special dinners a few times a week. Multi-course dinners that feature the local olive oil and wine, with typical local dishes. I'd made arrangements a few months ahead of time for one of these dinners. Unfortunately the owner had taken ill so dinner was cancelled.

So it was time for plan B. We took our time making our way back up Calle Catolicos, a major shopping street….then cutting through Bib Rambla and the back of the Cathedral, then back up Gran Via until we turned down a side street to a wine bar named Saint Germain.

The place had a rather extensive listing of over 30 wines by the glass…..all from Spain in addition to Cava and beer.

We loved the atmosphere….we both ended up with our favorite wine…

The Missus ended up enjoying the house Blanco Seco, while I really liked the Encaste, a nice red, I believe a Cabernet from Ronda.

And of course, there was a free tapa with every glass. We really enjoyed what this place put out. First off, a wonderful olive oil-cheese-onion tostada, with nice oregano flavor, the bread so crisp.

Then a remarkable arroz-verde, rice with cheese and mushroom that was a pure joy to eat. Everything in balance, savory-salty-earthy, the rice cooked perfectly. This was perhaps the Missus's favorite single dish in Granada.

By this time, the Missus had discovered the joy of wondering what tapa would come out with Her next glass of wine. We were disappointed when it was a rather simple salad.

And rather surprised when something that looked just like a Mexican Flauta arrived. This was delicious by the way; the creamy, savory cheese-béchamel filling was very good.

I loved the fried fava beans too. I asked and was told this is a "canelone", a Spanish version of cannelloni and a specialty of Catalan, which was thought to be brought to Spain in the 19th century. You learn something new everyday.

By this time the place was filling up.

We had intended on ordering some food, but ended up stuffed on tapas. Our bill? 20 euros….which put us at less than forty bucks for lunch and dinner, crazy. By this time the place was full….on this evening full of locals and college students. We'd end up coming here on every evening while in town…..there would be a combination of locals and folks from the hotel up the street. We never had the same tapa twice……it became sort of a game for the Missus…..the let's see what we get kind of thing. I can't say I didn't enjoy playing along.

Saint Germain
Calle Postigo Velutti 4
Granada, Spain

Granada: Bodegas Casteneda

February 19, 2016 mmm-yoso Granada, Spain, Spanish Restaurants and Cuisine, Travel

Our train was scheduled to leave Atocha Station at 0745……we're not quite used to things being pitch black dark at 7am in the morning so that was somewhat disorienting to us. And yet, it was neat watching the sun rise over the horizon on the train…at 0845 no less….

We were of course, well prepared for any pangs of hunger. Armed with the Jamon Bellota from Ferpal. Part of the "fun" when travelling are the interesting characters you see. In this case, the middle aged, somewhat eccentric Japanese gentleman who brought a huge suitcase with him, in addition he wore two watches to go with the two cameras around his neck. He stuffed the suitcase on the seat next to him….only to find out that someone had that seat reserved. He quickly moved the gigantic suitcase to the storage area……then, in a strange twist of fate, the guy who sat next to him suddenly realized he was on the wrong car! Bummer…… And yet, not all was lost as he bought a bocadillo and assumed what I consider to be the classic "bocadillo pose".

After his sandwich; I watched him bring out a huge folder with tabs and review notes….about what, I'm not sure. Then I saw him bring out a smartphone….which led me to wonder why he needed two watches?

Since the tracks to Granada are being repaired we had to change from the train to a bus at Antequera-Santa Ana Station. Our good man ended up sitting right across from another eccentric looking middle aged Japanese gentleman who had a huge file folder of notes carrying a huge camera tri-pod. Aaaah, when soulmates meet! They had such an animated conversation during the bus ride to Granada Train Station which was going thru some major road work.

We were told to catch the bus on "LAC" – Avenida de la Constitucion, then transfer to the bus on Gran Via….of course we decided to walk.

The location of the AirBnB apartment was great, right off Plaza Nueva on Calle Animas…though we did find that so much was tourist based here. Finding a simple market or decent bakery was a bit difficult. Yet, it was so close to the Judicial Gate of the Alhambra (right up the street) and many of the popular places it was a great location.

A big plus was the location of the Alhambra Bookstore where we could print our prepaid tickets for our visit, thus being able to take the nearby Judicial Gate the next day.

Granada takes pride in still offering what we were told is "traditional tapas"……free tapas with every drink. Two of the most highly recommended places were within a short walk of our apartment; Los Diamantes and Bodegas Casteneda. Los Diamantes seemed very touristy, right on the main drag….though we did see the original location a bit later on which seemed less so. Bodegas Casteneda an alleyway off the main drag seemed to have a more local clientele…….based on the older local folks who seemed to be making the rounds after (before?) church on this Sunday.

A lot of older couples would just drop by; have a drink, then move on……perhaps to the next place.

Our free tapa…with the glass of tinto for the Missus and my beer was a rather generous portion of bacalao (preserved cod) with a very nice tomato sauce.

It was a bit early for more drinks for us so I ordered "tapa" size portions of Fabes con Jamon (fava beans with jamon) which the Missus absolutely loves and berenjenas relleno (stuffed eggplant) which was very cold in terms of temperature and in spite of looks was on the greasy side and lacked flavor.

Not quite the most auspicious first meal in Granada….yet quite worth the 12 Euro price in our mind. So while we'd probably not return it was quite reasonable for us.

It's quite amazing that the servers are able to keep track of things, but they do. Bodegas Casteneda also has a full service restaurant next door; don't confuse this place with Antigua Bodega Casteneda right around the corner….there's some familiar connection, but to my understanding, has no true link to this location.

Bodegas Castañeda
Calle de Almireceros 1-3
Granada, Spain

Madrid: All Those Familiar Places; Restaurante Badila, Ferpal, and Metro Bistro

February 18, 2016 mmm-yoso Madrid, Spain, Spanish Restaurants and Cuisine, Travel

It was on the trip back from Seoul and Japan that the Missus told me She wanted to head back out ASAP…..in February to be exact…..crazy. I wasn't going to have a whole lot of vacation time and finally decided that Andalucia; super hot in the summer, would be nice during the winter. We'd be book-ending our travels with single nights in Madrid. I booked a Junior Suite at the AC Carlton which is a short 5-10 minute walk from Atocha Station. The suite wasn't that much more expensive than a regular room and I figured our chances of being able to check in early during the slow season would be good and it was. We were able to check in at 10am.

Even though I've flown extensively over the years, I've never been able to sleep on flights unless in First/Business. It was no different this time. We were both fairly pooped and since lunch starts late in Madrid….well, all of Spain we had time to take a nap.

Trying to figure out what to have for lunch was a snap for the Missus….She really enjoyed Restaurante Badila during our previous visit. So we were back at this small, but quite busy "menu del dia" (menu of the day) place. It was a nice, now familiar walk to Tirso de Molina, then down the side street to the restaurant.

Badila is one of those places that you really don't stumble upon. Menu del Dia is a great way to have a filling and economical lunch. You get three courses and a beverage for a single price.

Determining what to order is the toughest part. Of course the Missus and I share everything, which made this a fun lunch.

Our two primeros were the Judias Verdes (Green Beans) with Potatoes and simple, but very tasty braised beans and potato dish that could have used a bit more salt.

I went with the Calamar Encebollado con Arroz. While the rice was terrible, the amazingly tender braised squid, along with the caramelized onions, which added a wonderful savory-sweet component was a revelation.

The Missus always hesitates when ordering squid, but this changed Her mind about it. The salt was perfect; there was a hint of garlic, a very tasty dish.

Of course the Missus got the Rabo de Toro Estofado – the braised oxtails.

Perfect texture, nice beefy flavor along with the tender connective tissue.

I basically got what I ordered the last time the estofado in a white sauce; this time it was Carrillado – pork cheek, and the stewing liquid was sherry based (Amontillado).

Of course, the dry, unfortified sherry was used for the sauce, which was very tasty. More on Jerez in a future post.

This came with a pile of "chips" which was more than we could finish. We each had a glass of "tinto" as our drink and "café solo" for dessert as we both really wanted to head back to the room and nap after this meal.

Restaurante Badila
Calle San Pedro Martir 6
Madrid, Spain

We needed the caffeine as there were a couple of things we needed to do and headed up to one of the Missus's favorite spots in Madrid; Puerta del Sol….of course She needed to take a photo of the Tio Pepe sign…..

Of course, this being February, it was a bit colder than when we were here last……dipping into the mid-low thirties at night……

First stop was the El Cortes Ingles department store. I was able to get most of my Renfe (Spain's train operator) tickets online. However, we had a side trip to one of the White Hill Towns and after fruitlessly trying to get tickets online, I contacted the town's Tourist Bureau and found out that train tickets aren't released for that destination until a week before. El Cortes Ingles has a travel agency and the folks are very nice, unlike many of the ticket agents in Atocha. So we got our tickets……there will be more on this later as there was a bit of a mix-up.

Next stop….well, we'd have to keep our strength up during our ride to Granada the next day; so we headed back to Ferpal. I'm really not good a languages….but I know "cien (100) gram, Jamon Bellota Pata Negra para llevar (to go)". I went through this whole thing in previous posts…….if you're in Spain, do yourself a favor, find a good "cutter" and get the really good stuff; like the "5-J" Jamon Bellota (raised on acorns) pata negra (black pig).

It is claimed that the fat of jamon bellota is over 55% oleic acid…..actually making it rather healthy. I'll say this, the good stuff starts sweating almost immediately after being sliced.

The flavor is a balanced slightly salty and "sweet", the texture is luxurious, when sliced (by hand of course) well, it almost melts in your mouth.

Ferpal
Calle del Arenal 7
Madrid, Spain

We spent the rest of the time visiting those other familiar places.

Leaving time for yet another short nap before dinner. Folks eat late in Spain, even later in Madrid. The sunset at 620pm kind of threw me off and we both wondered if this would affect when folks have dinner….it didn't. Instead of waiting until 830 to eat, we decided to head back to Metro Bistro which opens at 7pm. We managed to snag the last table in the bar area that was available without reservations.

The menu was basically unchanged from our previous visit, which suited us well as there were a couple of dishes that we really enjoyed.

The Missus really enjoyed the Cava (sparkling wine) we had here last time so we started with that.

Lunch was still lingering with us, so we ended up only ordering three dishes, two of them starters. The only item we hadn't had before was the Foie Gras.

The guava reduction really added a nice touch….the portion size was quite huge and perhaps this might have been too much of a good thing….I know, this from the guy who had foie gras three times a day in France.

The Missus didn't order the Roasted Mushroom topped with 65 Degree Egg…..and I wondered why. So I ordered it.

And the Missus is glad I did…even though it takes 20 minutes to make. This was even better than what we had last time. The earthy mushroom flavors came through so well; this time around we could make out the celery flavors in the sauce, which added a nice palate cleansing, almost salty component to the dish.

And then there's the egg…….

Need I say more?

The Beef Tartar was just as good as before.

The only real difference was the little bottle with the dropper that was delivered to our table with the dish. We were told it was a spicy chili oil. Not wanting to mess up the dish, I tasted the chili oil, which wasn't very spicy and quite bitter. It really brought nothing to the dish in my opinion so I had the Missus try it….same verdict….pass on the spicy oil.

A full "all in" for the beef tartare…refreshing, the mustard seed and minced capers really harmonize the flavor of the dish…the foie gras adding a nice creamy component, the micro greens the touch of bitterness……you can mix and match and get a totally different experience with every bite.

Service was much improved from our previous visit and just as friendly. The young man who served us was pleasantly surprised to find that we were from the States…he's born and raised in Madrid, but spent several years in New York City. Overall a very nice meal which put us in a great frame of mind….we were back in Spain.

Metro Bistro
Calle Imperial 3
Madrid, Spain

Thanks for reading!

Where in the world are we (again) Part 2

February 14, 2016 mmm-yoso Ronda, Seville, Spain, Spanish Restaurants and Cuisine

Well, this one is pretty much in the books as I write this up on the train back to where we landed. It's been a great one. We stopped for one fantastic night in a hill town famous for it's bridge.

You can see why, right? Our apartment was perched over the valley below with an amazing view.

The town is also famous for one other thing.

We had one meal which turned out to be surprisingly good and somewhat innovative. Adding Japanese touches to dishes seems to be the thing here right now. Like this really good pork tataki…yes, that's raw pork and it's delici-yoso!

Our next stop was a fun one…..a live and vibrant, if somewhat confusing city.

With the third largest cathedral in Europe.

And a wonderful plaza.

We had several excellent meals as well. In fact, we may just have found our favorite city in this country.

As you can see we ate well.

Sadly, all good things must come to an end. But I'm fairly certain we'll be back as we left out several key places/events here.

Thanks for reading!

Where in the world are we (again) part 1

February 10, 2016 mmm-yoso Granada, Madrid, Spain, Spanish Restaurants and Cuisine, Travel

We had just returned from Seoul and Japan, almost the very next day as a matter of fact, when the Missus told me, "let's go somewhere in February". The planning window and time was short so we decided to revisit what has become my second favorite destination.

Starting in a very familiar spot.

With only a single day we stuck to some familiar places and are glad we did.

The next morning we headed out before the sun rose…….which isn't too impressive, since the it rises at about 820 am this time of the year. We watched the sun slowly make its way up from the train window.

With jamon in hand of course.

And after switching mid way to a bus ended up at our current destination. Once the greatest city in Spain, things are different here. There's a magnificent Moorish Palace on a hill.

Things are quite different from anywhere else we've been to in this country.

People here are especially warm, friendly, and as you see the views spectacular.

Tons of history…..a Moorish Quarter and a Gypsy Quarter.

The city is proud of its history and still keep with the tradition of free tapas with every drink. The Missus was especially fond of two particular wine bars here.

Of course man cannot live by tapas alone…..which is totally untrue, we did a have few regular sit down meals.

It's time to head out to our next stop in a few hours. We'll miss this place.

There's rain in forecast…….we're hoping to keep dry.

Thanks for reading!

Madrid: Metro Bistro

February 3, 2016 mmm-yoso Fine Dining, Madrid, Spain, Spanish Restaurants and Cuisine, Travel

It was our last evening in Madrid and we were feeling a bit, well, sad. The city was definitely much better the second time around. During our first pass through Madrid, we thought it, hot, loud, gritty, somewhat dirty….the second time around we took to the city, it seemed so vibrant, alive, for some reason it reminded me of China. Folks really seemed to have a good time and enjoy life. Perhaps it was the apartment right on Tirso de Molina, where we took such watching folks out socializing. At 630 in the evening, most folks weren't even thinking about eating.

Instead of having the obvious (tapas) for dinner, we decided to go with another recommendation from Emilio, a rather new (at the time), modern-fusion place named Metro Bistro. We even dropped by during lunch to make reservations for dinner.

They even started dinner service at the ungodly hour of 7pm! Our reservations were for 8pm and we were happy to not be the first customers of the evening.

The interior is quite modern, the staff, very nice, friendly, though some of the folks were somewhat eccentric and the service was a bit spotty as the pacing seemed a bit off.

Things started off quite nicely as we were brought a nice aperitif, a celery based cocktail that was like a celery mojito. Very nice, quite refreshing.

The menu itself was quite interesting, classic dishes with fusion-y touches. Braised butterfish with ponzu, Sweet and sour IberianPork, Salmorejo with Olive Oil "Ice Cream", stuff like that.

The bread was nice and made even better by the nice herb butters provided.

We started things off with Metro Bistro's take on the classic Catalan roasted vegetable dish, Escalibada (9,40 €). This version was topped with cold smoked eel, which added a nice savory-smokey flavor to the dish.

We were less impressed with the vegetables which were underseasoned and could have used a bit of color…..the vegetables were basically limp and flavorless.

The Steak Tartare (19 €) however, was excellent.

The wonderfully tender beef, which was rather lean was bolstered by having minced foie gras mixed in. The minced capers and more so the mustard seed gave the dish zest and a nice finish. The egg yolk added even more velvety texture, possibly overkill. The micro greens balanced out things with a touch of bitter and a nice crunchy texture. This was really, really, good.

What was delici-yoso was the wonderfully Roasted Mushroom topped with 65 Degree Egg (10,80 €).

Man, egg porn. The flavor of that egg was so pure, the yolk so rich and runny, you'd think it was the star of the dish. But for me, it was the intense, earthy flavors and meaty texture of the mushroom base and the crunchy and earthy fried trumpet mushrooms that really made this stand out for me. The Missus? Well, She's a big time egg lover…..'nuff said

The pseudo sousvidish Lamb Gigot (18€) was solid if not outstanding.

The truffle potatoes seemed a bit out of place in this dish and for some reason clashed with the gamey lamb. Still, eaten separately, each was tasty.

We had a nice Cava with dinner and the Missus destroyed the dessert.

In what ended up being the evening's entertainment, we watched one of the Server's struggle with opening a bottle of wine….first breaking the cork and then fiddling with whatever was left, pushing the cork into the bottle. He should have just quit and gotten a fresh bottle. It was somewhat painful watching him struggle…..I felt like standing up and grabbing the bottle away from him…..it was like passing that accident scene….you just can't help but looky-loo. Still, we enjoyed our dinner. When the flavors and textures "clicked" it was really good. We found the prices to be not too bad. It was nice finding a place like this around tourist Plaza Mayor. We'd gladly return.

Metro Bistro
Calle Imperial 3
Madrid, Spain

We picked up a nice bottle of Crianza on the way back to the apartment. Popping it open, we opened the window and watched the action below…..this is Tirso de Molina at 1030pm. Notice the kids playing……

Some folks are just starting to eat dinner….this was a Thursday mind you…..

At midnight, folks were just starting to eat at the place further down the block!

Talk about really knowing how to enjoy life! Of course, at 8am the place looks like a ghost town.

The next morning we walked the mile or so down to Atocha Station and caught the airport express. Remember the Jamon we bought at Ferpal? It came in real handy. The international gates at Madrid-Barajas Airport is like a cattle pen. There's no place to buy snacks, coffee….just vending machines. That package of Jamon Bellotta Pata Negra was sweating away in my bag. Man, it was delicious. Just looking at the photo makes me want to head back to Spain.

Thanks for reading!

Madrid: Maestro Churrero, Buen Retiro Park, Buying Jamon at Ferpal, and Lunch at La Posada de la Villa

January 30, 2016 mmm-yoso Breakfast/Brunch, Madrid, Spain, Spanish Restaurants and Cuisine, Travel

We really hadn't planned on getting Chocolate con Churros, even though it's a favorite breakfast for many. I'm just not a big fan of Churros….as we know it in SoCal. But Emilio, one of the owners of the apartment we were staying in really said that we should try the Chocolate con Churros (for some reason folks tend to call it Churros con Chocolate) at Maestro Churrero in Plaza de Jacinto Benavente, which was quite close to the apartment. So on our last morning in Madrid we headed over. We cracked up when we found the place; we'd passed it once at least everyday we were in Madrid. It really looked like some fast-food joint.

So, how did we like it? Well, the churros weren't overly sweet, but crisp, light, and reminded the Missus of youtiao for some reason. The chocolate was thick like pudding and not overly sweet either. The Missus enjoyed it much more than I did, so I'm thinking we may have this again if we're back in Spain.

Maestro Churrero Cafeteria Churreria
Plaza De Jacinto Benavente 2
Madrid, Spain

After this we headed back to Puerta del Sol. While the Missus loves the Tio Pepe sign, my favorite landmark is the Bear and The Madrono Tree, which is the National Coat of Arms of Madrid.

While the sun was shining brightly, the temperature was still fairly mild, so we headed down Calle de Alcala……

Here you can see the top of the Metropolis Building, a landmark on longest and one of the oldest streets in Madrid.

We walked to Puerta de Alcala…..

Then right into Retiro Park, a very nice green area that was once the lair of the Monarchy in Spain.

There are gardens, sculptures, galleries, and a lake…..called "Estanque del Retiro", Retiro Pond, which is does not resemble any "pond" I can think of.

The grand structure you see in the photo is the Monument to Alfonso XII.

After a nice stroll in the park we headed up Calle de las Huertas, then, somehow ended up on Calle Concepcion de Jeronima…and the intersection of Jeronima and Calle Toledo. The Missus immediately recognized the shop on the corner Calzados Lobo. this store specializes in espradilles; shoes and sandals and has been around since 1897. The Missus suddenly just "needed" some sandals. Though it looked pretty mellow from the exterior, it was packed……

I just tried to stay out of the way and hide in a corner while the Missus went about things.

Actually, the guy that helped the Missus was a total pro; the Missus told him Her size…..metric of course, which he brought, in addition to a size smaller, which he thought would fit Her better and did.

The Missus was quite happy, until She came upon Casa Hernanz….which claims to have been in business since 1845….check out the line.

Talk about buyers remorse. I didn't feel so bad though, as I really didn't want to stand in this line. As we walked around the streets near Puerta del Sol, the Missus reminded me of how boring my tastes are in clothes….so I ended up buying some bright, bright, blue loafers….I was actually going for the red; but even the Missus backed down on those.

We had a flight the next morning and started thinking about having something to snack on….and Ferpal, which we'd visited earlier came to mind. So we stood in line…..

And got some of the Jamon Iberico Pata Negra; the top of the line Jamon……as you'll see in a later post, even at 160 euros a kilo, this was worth much, much more…..

It was getting close to 1pm….early for lunch by Madrileno standards, but we were hungry. Emilio had recommended trying La Posada de la Villa, which, for some reason we had never seen during our visits to Calle Cava Baja.

This restaurant, built on the site of an inn which dates back to 1642 is full of character. From the somewhat formal, though still relaxed service, to the chairs, which have the names of famous customers carved in them.

Want to know who this dude was? Well you can find out here…… there's even some scandal involved!

The meal started rather inauspiciously. The croquettas didn't impress. The Revuelto de Esparragos was nice, the eggs fluffy, but the dish wasn't anything special.

The mushrooms were nice, the portion size amazingly large.

But it was the Callos Madrilenos, tripe stewed in the style of Madrid that really got us. The "stew" was thick and just coated your belly, rich and slightly gelatinous.

06072015 2204 The texture of the tripe was perfect; not too chewy, but toothsome; the morcilla was fine, nothing special, but it just fit well in the dish. This was a nice, hearty dish. and while we were a bit afraid that the place would be a tourist trap, it was not. In fact, if we're ever in Madrid during the winter season, we might just stop in for the house specialty; the roasted kid lamb for two!

Posada de la Villa
Calle de la Cava Baja 9
Nadrid, Spain

Madrid: An evening walk and Almendro 13

January 23, 2016 mmm-yoso Madrid, Spain, Spanish Restaurants and Cuisine, Travel

Lunch was still with us after visiting the Reina Sofia so we took a walk around all those now familiar places. We headed back up to Puerto del Sol…….

We had been told that the department store El Cortes Ingles had what they called the "Gourmet Experience". Having been to Japan, I wondered how this measures up to the "Depachika", so we headed to the Callao location to check it out.

There were some nice gourmet items, but we were looking for something to eat and the shops really didn't grab us.

They view though, it very nice.

So it was back down and around to Puerto del Sol, where I finally got a decent photo of Real Casa de Correos which used to be the Post Office Building and now houses the Regional Government of Madrid. The clock in the tower of the building officially chimes in the New Year.

As I noted in an earlier post, the Missus really wanted a photo of the Tio Pepe sign at night. Well, it was dusk (845pm) and still a bit too early, so we had some time to kill. So we made a loop back to Plaza Mayor.

Where the Chinese Massage/Reflexology folks were making a killing.

And then there was this weird "creature", the one to the left in the photo. It would site quietly, then jump up when some unsuspecting tourist walked by scaring the crap out of them. Strangely, folks liked taking their photo with the "thing".

Down through the corridor is Mercado de San Miguel.

The last time we walked by was during morning hours and the place wasn't open. On this evening it was quite busy.

We weren't tempted by the stuff here either as it seemed a bit too touristy for us…..

By now the sun had set (945pm) so we headed on back to Puerto del Sol. And finally! The Missus (well, at least I), got Her shot of the Tio Pepe sign!

So finally we decided to get something to eat. Nothing too heavy, but we knew we needed to get something. So back to "Emilio's list" and I found a recommendation. We headed back toward the La Latina area. Instead of heading to the busy Calle Cava Baja, we went one street over to Calle del Almendro and a place simply named Almendro 13.

The scene here was totally different from Calle Cava Baja. Much more chill, quiet, laid back, and local.

We were greeted with a smile and they found a small corner table for us in the corner which was perfect. The Missus got the house white Vina Almendro 13, which you drank from Caña sized glasses and I got a beer. The Huevos Rotos was the dish Emilio recommended we get here. It was good thing we saw an entire portion (racione) come out. It looked like it could feed a family of four! We ordered a media racione, which was still more than enough for us.

If you're a regular reader of this blog you'll know that the Missus loves Her eggs…..She can easily put away 6 a day if left to Her own devices. The eggs were fabulous, rich orange in color, yolks creamy, the yolks so flavorful. Why do potatoes in places like Spain or Peru taste so much better? I didn't dwell on that too much, I just enjoyed the potato-y goodness. The jamon was thick sliced as if from the ends, thus nice and salty, adding some toothsomeness to the dish. Just what we needed on this evening…..I don't recall the prices, but we got away really cheap on this evening.

We wanted something simple and got exactly that.

Taberna Almendro 13
Calle del Almendro 13
Madrid, Spain

And the Missus got Her Tio Pepe shot as well.

It was a wonderful day.

Madrid: Restaurante Badila and Museo Reina Sofía

January 22, 2016 mmm-yoso Madrid, Spain, Spanish Restaurants and Cuisine, Travel

I'm going to do a few posts out of chronological order. We did visit the South of France following our stay in San Sebastian, then ended back up in Madrid. The city, the first time around just didn't impress us much we'd walked around a bit, eaten some decent, but not outstanding meals and were just a bit underwhelmed. The rather griminess and grittiness of the city along with the heat and such had not impressed much on us. This was to change soon enough. This time around, we were staying at an apartment right on Plaza de Tirso de Molina a very busy square in Madrid. It meant a walk of over a mile from Atocha Station, which wasn't so bad. You'd think that being in the middle of the crowds would make things worse; but the opposite was true. First off, the apartment we were staying at. Not just the view of the plaza…..

But the set-up as well with good A/C….quite important as the temps would be in the 90's until 9-10pm…no wonder dinner was eaten so late. But the double paned windows minimized the sound of the lively square below.

As a big bonus, one of the owners; Emilio apparently loved to eat. While checking in, I mentioned his great list of restaurants….then, just by luck, we started talking about Jamon….not Jamon Iberico….but Jamon Bellota, and the importance of how the jamon is sliced. We were in like Flynn! He asked us to stow our luggage, then walked us to his favorite local eatery…"nothing fancy, but very good, local style food"! It would turn out to be just the kind of place we'd been looking for. It was right down the side street, but there was no way we'd have found Restaurante Badila without him. Emilio introduced us to the owner….they found us a table in the packed little restaurant, which featured "menu del dia"…..a menu of items available for the day.

The little place was packed…..all locals, looking for a good lunch at decent prices. The deal was a soup or salad, a main, dessert, and drinks (which included a glass of wine on weekends) for a set price. This would turn out to be one of our favorite meals of the trip….even without foie gras!

Things just started out perfectly for us as I'd ordered the Salmorejo…….which has become a staple in our household.

The wonderful "taste of sunshine" from the ripe tomatoes, the grassy-peppery flavor of the olive oil…it was refreshing on such a hot day and had that "aaah" factor to it. Smooth and creamy, onion for pungency, the jamon for a bit of salty-savory flavor. Man, this was so good……it left an indelible mark on me.

We'd had mollejas de cordero, goat sweetbreads before, but coated with a light crunchy batter to provide that contrast in textures….crunch and creamy was just right.

And provided in salad was just perfect for such a hot day.

The Huevos con Chorizo was probably the most mundane dish of the day.

But since the Missus loves eggs, this really didn't disappoint either.

The Estofado Carne was also delicious and quite different from what I thought I'd get.

The beef was so flavorful and tender, the sauce almost like a light béchamel………this was delicious.

And there was dessert….which the Missus enjoyed.

No, there were no Michelin stars here. Just honest good food, the type locals like to eat. It really made our day and we started seeing Madrid in a different way. We started understanding things. A good meal can do that. In fact, I'm looking forward to returning someday soon. To the simple restaurant down a side street……

Thanks Emilio!

Restaurante Badila
Calle San Pedro Martir 6
Madrid, Spain

Emilio had left us to our own devices once he found us seats in Badila. We had the keys to the apartment and a list of places to eat and the rest was up to us.

It was getting fairly warm so we did the Spanish thing….it was siesta time!

When we awoke, the Missus had things planned out for us…….on our earlier visit we checked out the Prado Museum twice….during the free early evening hours. On our return trip, it was The Reina Sofia Museum's turn.

There were actually quite a few people waiting to get into the museum, but the line moved fast……and heck, it was free (between 7 and 9pm).

As I've mentioned before, I really don't know much about art. But this trip has really given me a greater appreciation of it. I was truly moved by viewing Las Meninas by Diego Velázquez. One artist I do know of is Joan Miró whose works I recall seeing at the Contemporary Museum in Honolulu. I've always enjoyed his somewhat whimsical and almost playful works. So of course I enjoyed viewing his works here. Next time we're in Barcelona, we'll make sure to visit his museum.

There was of course, works by Dali, Diego Rivera, and many more, like this work named Un Mundo (The World) by Angeles Santos.

There was one particular work that I wanted to see. I'd mentioned gaining a real appreciation of the work of Picasso, then being moved by his painting and the story of the Bombing of Guernica. So the main reason for really wanting to visit was to view Guernica by Picasso. Just viewing a photo of the painting inspired us to visit the city. The painting is huge….much larger than I expected. The size creates a greater impact…the vignettes…the stories each part of the work tells.

Museo Reina Sofía
Calle Santa Isabel 52
Madrid, Spain

Days were fairly long during this part of the year. It was past 8 when we left the museum but as is the way in Madrid, things seemed to just be getting started.