Category: Travel

*** Not much food in this one, so you may want to just drop by tomorrow…..

After two rather damp days, the sun rose on a dry morning in Cappadocia. The Missus had wanted one day to explore some of the valleys in the area. I really wasn't looking forward to this day as the Missus is known for taking me on some major "death marches". Once she gets on a roll….look out. During breakfast, Mustapha planned out a hike for us…it sounded easy enough, a walk to Pigeon Valley which we saw from the scenic area the day before. There was some supposed Roman trail in the valley, which looked paved from up above. The valley leads from the outskirts of the town we where we were staying, Goreme to Uchisar. We made our way down the hill passing a few of our furry neighbors along the way.

The town was farly quiet at this time of the day…….

All the better to enjoy the fairy chimneys rising out of the ground.

I had to chuckle when we passed this hotel……

Yabba-Dabba-Doo!!!

At the end of the road, there really wasn't any real sign, just this on a light pole.

Unfortunately, there were two trails…..so we took the one to the left, which started by going through this tunnel.

And came out the other side.

We walked for a kilometer or two and couldn't find the road…… so we turned back and went down the trail to the right. We found the old roman road and headed into scenic Pigeon Valley.

It is called Pigeon Valley for all the pigeon houses built in the valley. Folks here used to harvest the guano to use as fertilizer.

We walked to the end of one side of the valley and found a rock wall. We walked out to the other trail and found the same. We could here the folks talking at the look-out above us, it almost felt like they were taunting us. But we just couldn't find a trail upwards to Uchisar. Un total, we walked back and forth thru the valley at least three times or more.

At this point, the Missus had built up a head of steam as we headed all the way to the hotel, where Mustapha could only laugh and tell the Missus that he'd drop us off at the beginning of Honey Valley. He was also driving these two really tough looking German women, one of whom snickered at me when I said we couldn't find the way out of Pigeon Valley, "Vvvhat! I come every year…and I have been there many times….never get lost!" No argument from me…she looked like she could body-slam me and make me submit with a figure-four leg lock. We were dropped of at the Goreme end of Honey Valley and our instructions were to hike to the Uchisar end, climb up the hillside ("be careful, it can be slippery") and catch a Dolmar (the local bus). These mini-buses are called Dolmars because of how they used to stuff people into them….just like stuffing a Dolma. Anyway we started off at the Goreme side which was just a dirt trail that led to other trails into the valley. They also call Honey Valley "Love Valley", but I haven't a clue why……..do you?

Eventually, the trails split into several trails headed in every direction, which split into trails that seemed all headed in opposite directions. We passed folks going into the opposite direction and soon enough we saw no one. We decided to head toward the direction of where we thought Uchigar was scrambling through streams and stream beds, sometimes finding trails that would suddenly end.

We walked through pasture and caves looking for footprints and occasionally finding some. Near the end of the valley we could see the road and constrruction above us. We found a pretty steep trails and scrambled up and found ourselves at the Onyx factory we had stopped at yesterday. The view of the valley was very pretty……..

From up here you could see all the trails zig-zagging in different directions below us.

As we headed out to the main road I could see Uchisar across the way. Unfortunately, the Missus was still fixated on not finding our way out of Pigeon Valley and headed off in the opposite direction. So it was goodbye bus ride back to Goreme…..

We made to scenic look-out and tried to figure out where the trail was up the mountainside.

I still couldn't figure it out and at this point I'd had enough of this hiking stuff for today. We still had the 5 kilometer walk back to Goreme…..at which point ourmy rescuer appeared, in the form of an old Renault sedan which smelled, quite wonderfully to me at the time, of cigarette smoke. The white car was driving down the road when it stopped then suddenly reversed twenty yards or so to where I was walking. The first thought in the Missus' mind was that this was some road-side mass murderer and we were his next victims, but this was Cappadocia, so of course it was a very mild mannered young man named Ahmed who pointed down the road and said; "Goreme?" What a nice guy….of course the Missus told me that I looked like I was going to drop dead by the roadside at any minute and that was what alarmed the young man into stopping. Whatever, I thought it a wonderful gesture…you gotta the folks in Turkey! When we arrived at the outskirts of town the young man stopped and starting pointing and asking me something in Turkish……after a second I realized that he was asking me where we wanted to be dropped off! People here were very nice indeed. I just motioned to the side of the road and we got out.

By this time, I was starting to get a bit hungry…..not super starving, but just in need of something to eat. We were right across the street from Nazar Borek where we had dinner the night before, so we thought, hey, why not?

This time we just simply shared a doner kebab…….

Which was really cheap at 2 TRY and ok. But it was house made Ayran that I really enjoyed. It was light, though not as frothy as other versions I've had, this simple drink of yogurt, salt, and water sure hit the spot. It was nice little break and we got to chat with the owner who we found out was a classmate of Mustapha, the owner of our hotel.

We also saw the same mutt as the night before patrolling his territory and searching for scraps.

All of this put me into a good mood…….which is when the Missus told me that She "wanted to see more valleys", sigh……. So we walked back to the Arch Palace, I took a shower, dried off, and we headed back in the direction of  Goreme Open Air Museum and Zemi Valley.

And to Zemi Valley. This was the valley the Missus wanted to check out during the deluge with the trail under a foot of water, I guess She was just determined to see the place. Actually, there wasn't much interesting other than one of the small churches in the valley.

The caretaker/ticket-taker/guide/etc of this place was a hoot. The church itself is only a single tiny room, but is quite pretty. The gentleman insisted on taking photos of us. He grabbed my camera and said, "no worry, me here 26 years, me professional already…." and proceeded to pose us at various locations around the church. Most of these churches don't allow photos, so he was sure to let us know that "you take many pictures here….no problem" as he let us in.

 As I mentioned before, the Ottomans believed in aniconism, thus most of the eyes on the frescos have been whited out.

The valley was nice, but I was pretty weary at this point……

We took a different trail on the way out and saw this beautiful sight.

Did you know that Cappadocia means "Land of Beautiful Horses"?

I thought this as a wonderful sight, a nice ending to our hiking the valleys…..but no….the Missus pointed across the street. There was still one more valley to see.

We walked down a dusty dirt trail, past Goreme Camping, a sort of RV-camp site, where you could pitch a tent, but restrooms and I heard there's even kitchen facilities and a pool are provided. We took a right past the Royal Balloon landing area and took in the view of Rose Valley.

Though all the ATVs zooming around the valley really distracted one from the beauty of the place.

By this point I was "vallied out" and gladly the Missus decided that it was time for a nap…..which was the best idea She had all day!

Thanks for reading……

The final stop on the "Green Tour" was Selime Cathedral and Monastary which is dug into the hillside outside the town of Selime.

 The location up a slippery (there's no stairs) hillside protected and probably helped preserve the ascetic lifestyle of the monks.

Most of what I've read says that the monastery was carved out of the hillside…more like a mountainside by monks in the 13th century. Though I've also been told that Christian Monks escaping from Roman rule first settled here in the tenth and eleventh centuries.

With all the diverse rock formations, I'm thinking Cappadocia must be a Geologists dream. The "Fairy Chimneys" give the terrain an otherworldly look. In fact, this was one of the area's scouted as the home of the Sand People in Star Wars. One look around you and you can easily see why.

As I mentioned, there are no stairs, you basically scramble up slippery paths up the side of the mountain…this is Turkey, there's no OSHA, handicapped access, or any of that. Many of the paths seemed to have been made by running water leaving tiny round mable like stones which sometimes make the going interesting. I also wondered how folks made it up here at night!

This kept several of the people on the tour grounded. I'm not a big fan of heights, but I wasn't going to miss this….even the ambulance I saw in the parking lot (I'm told it's always there "just in case") and the lack of railings or the prospect of the sheer drop wasn't keeping me form this one. To my surprise, I saw an elderly gentleman who used a walker at the top! Of course, going up is much easier than going down….

I was vastly rewarded for making my way up. The chambers, many of them blackened by smoke and soot had a strange and haunting quality to them.

The cathedral itself has a strangely haunting appearance.

You can easily make out the columns and some of the ornate artwork. You lose perspective and don't quite remember that you're in a cave until you turn around….

Looking closely you see the remnants of the frescoes and artwork……

All of the frescos and paintings that still remain have either the eyes whited out or the faces removed. The Ottomans, in accordance with the laws of Islam of the day practiced aniconism, which prohibits the depiction of the human form. So when the Ottomans took over……

All of the passages between the rooms had me regressing to childhood as I was having a great time exploring……

Of course, eventually we did have to make it down back to terra firma where I learned the answer to an age old question:

Why did the cow cross the road?

Well, to avoid the paparazzi, of course. Kinda corny I know, but this kinda tells you how far out in the country we were…..

Overall, the Green Tour was a very nice way to spend a day……you went from the depths of an underground city, to a walk along a gorge, to climbing up to a centuries old monastery carved into a mountain. And the ever changing topography was fascinating as well…..

We arrived back at our hotel pretty worn out and not in the mood for anything long and drawn out for dinner. In fact, just wanted something small and light. Mustapha suggested Nazar Borek Cafe and gave us instructions on how to walk there. Goreme is pretty small so it's kinda hard to get lost around the square, up in the hills perhaps, but not around the square. In fact, we saw at least eight of the people who were on the tour with us while we had dinner. The restaurant was packed when we arrived and the owner, a classmate of Mustapha's was very apologetic. But things had cleared up over the day, so dining al fresco suited us fine. The Missus decided to start with a glass of the loca wine, which she enjoyed.

As the name states, this place specializes in the stuffed pastries called Borek, of which there seemed to innumerable variations in Turkey.

The Missus actually went with a Gozleme……

She went with the Patatesli Gozleme which is filled with potato, onion, and mint which cost 5 Turkish Lira, less than $2.50 US at the time of our visit.

Remember the really lousy Gozleme was had in Istanbul? This was hundreds of times better and really quite filling.

I got the real winner of the meal when I decided on getting on of the Cigara Boregi.

I got the most expensive version, the lamb at 10 TRY (a bit less than five bucks US). As the name implies, this is a cigar shaped filled pastry and when it arrived it looked just like, say, lumpia…..

It doesn;t look like much, but the light, filo like pastry was very crisp and the lamb was well spiced, but still nice and gamey. It was quite rich and three of these filled me up.

We really enjoyed our evening here. We struck up a conversation with a young man who "works" (a very broad definition – his brother was actually working real hard. He just sat down and chatted) here during te evenings. During the day he is one of the ice cream vendors at Goreme Outdoor Museum. We asked him to do his call for ice cream and he shouted out; "Iiiii….SCREAM….Iiiii….Scream!" When we explained why we found that so humorous, he cracked up. We also found out a bit about life in the area and about him. He was a former soldier in the Turkish military who had seen quite a bit of action around the Syrian border and in other areas. He seemed to be glad to be home and we were happy to have him as company during our dinner.

We also watched the self appointed sidewalk "security guard" as he made his rounds……

He checked out everything in his area…if he didn't like you he'd start yapping. Quite a character!

We drowsily made our way back to the Arch Palace Hotel. The Missus was going to a take a loooong hot shower in the best shower she had on the trip, so I made my way to the terrace and had an Efes Beer even though my previous experience with it was terrible. And heck if it wasn't half decent. I dunno, maybe because this was the bottle version, or maybe because this was Cappadocia, land of fairy chimneys, underground cities, and monasteries carved into the hillsides.

Or maybe it was the view….cause that wasn't so bad either!

Thanks for reading!

When we arrived back at the hotel after our morning balloon ride, we were both surprised at how early it still was. While grabbing breakfast……the spread was typical of most all the places we stayed at in Turkey.

Except that this one had ezme, the spicy dip…..which I'm pretty sure probably surprised more than a few visitors.

All in all, breakfasts at the hotels in Turkey can be a pretty filling experience……

The subject of "what now" came up. We were here in Cappadocia and there was no way we'd be wasting the rest of the day. We'd planned on doing some hiking but things were still pretty wet due to the yesterdays deluge and it seemed like there would be a bit more rain on the way today. Of course, just like before, this was a job for Mustapha, the owner of the Arch Palace Hotel. We're not big on tours, but Mustapha suggested one of several tours that would take us to areas that aren't too easy to reach on foot. We'd still be doing some hiking, but we'd also be driven around and not have to worry about much. So we ended up at one of the tourist offices waiting to start the "Green Tour"……

The first stop was a scenic look-out spot over Goreme and Pigeon Valley.

Remember Pigeon Valley, it'll play a key role in a future post!

Anyway one of the reasons we don't do too well on tours is that other folks just drive us crazy. We've developed caricatures of generic characters typical of tours we'd take, for instance, in many cases there would be the demanding woman who would want things done her way. Her husband would typically be very quiet, probably henpecked into submission. Should she not get her way, she would initiate "plan B", that would be when the whining starts. On this tour there were the "testosterone boys", always bragging about this or that, trying to top each other. Showing off by running up and down hills, making as much noise as they could…..showing how "edgy" they were. So of course, while we were checking out the view, they decided to torment the "photo opportunity camel".

Being stuck in a van with three grown men acting like sixth graders thinking they were really cool was a bit trying at times. As were the two Japanese young ladies who kept flirting with the tour guide…..

Still, the stops were well worth the irritation. The second stop was at Derinkuyu Underground City. Comprised of eleven floors (some say more since much hasn't been excavated) going down 279 feet this is one of, if not the largest of the forty or so underground cities in the area. It is said that the city held at least 20,000 and by other estimates up to 50,000 people. The air shafts themselves go down over 180 feet.

 The story goes, that in 1963 someone was trying to extend their cave house when they went through a cave wall and discovered the passageway to the underground city. There have been relics found here that date back to the Byzantine era.

Many of the passages get smaller as you go down. That's the Missus on the right. She's five foot and weighs barely 100 pounds! The reason for these tapering passageways are simple….many of the folks moved down here for protection and safety. A large army couldn't rush down the passageway, they had to go single file and could be trapped and picked off. There are also large stone boulders that could be moved across the passage and locked into place.

The air shafts also provided water and there are a multitude of rooms which served as cellars, storage facilities, chapels, schools, and such.It's quite impressive if you're not claustrophobic….once you enter various rooms you can get quite confused so you'll need to be on the look-out for the arrows showing you the way up or down.

This was quite interesting……

The next stop was the Ihlara Valley, which is actually a 16 kilometer long gorge. We just did a short hike after walking down the 360 steps to trails which meander alongside the Melediz River which helped to form this gorge over the course of time.

At the bottom of the steps is Ağaçaltı Kilise (Church Under the Tree). The most stunning feature of this tiny cave church is the ceiling which features a fresco of The Ascension.

Notice that all the eyes have been "whited out".

It was a nice short hike in spite of the intermittent raindrops…..

It seems that every valley has its own distinct features which separates it from the others…..

The carrot at the end of the walk was lunch. Now having been on a few of these tours, I was prepared for some fairly terrible food. But the restaurant we stopped at in the valley called Belisirma was not bad. The food was actually Turkish, not some pseudo-westernized, dumbed down facsimile, and I got kinda worried when the Missus ordered the fish…..

The fish seemed very fresh and the Missus enjoyed it.

And I thought my lamb stew was decent, though I'm not a big fan of bulgur.

At least the flavors weren't dumbed down.

The soup on the other hand was insipid, but one out of three ain't bad. And of course this was Turkey so there just had to be a whopping amount of bread with every meal!

I was careful not to eat very much, we still had one more stop. And it turned out to be my favorite!

Stay tuned……

The flight from Izmir to the large (1.2 million) city of Kayseri seemed to happen in a blink of an eye. The hour and a half ride from Kayseri to Goreme felt a lot longer, though the views were sometimes quite stunning. Goreme, a town of about 2,500 resides in Cappadocia an area renowned for "fairy chimneys, underground cities, and it's moon like terrain. The unique landscape was reason enough for us to include the area in our itinerary….who can resist the pull of fairy chimneys?

I chose the Arch Palace Hotel for our stay in the area.

 

No, it's not four star or even three star, nor located in a fairy chimney. The rooms were large and priced right at 50 Euros per night…no lift, but the best shower we encountered during our trip.

 
The main reason I booked our stay at the Arch Palace was the reputation of the owner, Mustafa Yelkalan. He is just about everything you'd ever want in an owner of this type of hotel. All the great reviews and recommendations you read online are correct, Mustafa makes wonderful recommendations and is a one man tour guide, concierge, you name it. More on that later……

When we arrived, Mustapaha met us on the terrace of the hotel, looking at the view of Goreme really gave you could not help but feel that you were in an exotic locale.

 

 
After getting squared away, Mustapha suggested that we head off to Goreme Open Air Museum, also known as Goreme National Park, a UNESCO Heritage Site. Mustapha told us that we should do it this afternoon since there was some major rain headed our way…. it was already pretty darn cold, temps in the fourties, so we could imagine what freezing rain would be like.

We headed off in the direction of Goreme Open Air Museum oohing and aaahing at the sites along the way…..

 

It was already getting pretty windy and chilly….. but that really didn't deter us. We headed through the gauntlet of tourist shops and hawkers in the parking lot…… the one that really made us laugh were the folks selling Turkish Ice Cream, dondurma. They screamed out what they were hawking at the top of their lungs in English……. but instead of "Ice Cream", they all seemed to inject a pause after the "I", and it sounded like "I SCREeeemmmmm, Iiii SCREeeeeemmmmm", the ironic absurdity of it all still makes the Missus and I crack up.

Goreme National Park is a monastic settlement carved into the eroded rock formations. This large complex of churches, chapels, refectories, and a convent is dotted with frescoes, many quite well preserved.

 

Our favorite was the Elmali (Apple) Church….. photos aren't allowed in most indoor areas, so you'll have to take my word on how beautiful and for me, quite haunting the whole experience was.

There is some climbing to be done here……

 

Many of the areas are lit only by natural light…. like the eating area within the refectory.

 

So when groups of tourists enter the place becomes almost pitch dark.

The sky was quickly turning dark and it started to drizzle, so we decided to hike down and head back to the hotel.

 

Of course the sky unloaded on us……

Then in a moment of what can only be called temporary insanity, he Missus stopped on at the sign for Zemi Valley and said, "let's check this out"! The trail was a river of water, it was raining cats and dogs, heck, it was raining lions and pitbulls….. After a couple of minutes, I convinced the Missus that we still had a couple of days left, and perhaps we would enjoy it a bit more if we didn't have to worry about swimming for our lives!

Returning to Arch Palace, I was ever so thankful for the wonderful hot shower. We dried off, rested for a couple off hours….night falls quite suddenly in Cappadocia, and we headed off to dinner. Getting dinner was one of those situation where Mustafa proved his worth. I told Mustafa that I really wanted to try a "real" Testi Kebab. A Testi Kebab is a stew, not a kebab, that is sealed in a pottery jar and cooked over an open fire. According to Mustafa, there are only a couple of places that do justice to the testi kebab. Earlier in the day he wrote down a list of five places…. I recognized the name of one of them; Dibek Restaurant. Mustafa immediately got on the phone and ordered a testi kebab for us for dinner…….an advance reservation is needed to get one of these at Dibek.

Later that evening we headed down the hill, dodging raindrops to the location of Dibek. You get a feeling that the restaurant actually envelops you as you enter, and the mild mustiness belies the age of the building, which is 475 years old. This floor of the building used to be stables and a wine storage area…..

 

We walked down the passageway to the front desk and eventually someone took notice of us.

 

The serious looking gentleman walked over and asked, "did you call…did you make reservations?" I started by saying "no….." and never got to "but", before I was told, "sorry, we are full…..we are full every night this week, maybe you write your name down and we can call and let you know if we have space." At this point I mentioned, "Mustapaha (who happened to be his cousin), called and reserved a testi kebab for us." Ah, instantly the clouds parted and the sun began to shine through. "Ah, Mustapha, lamb test kebab, right? Follow me this way….." We were lead past all the crowds to an area in the rear of the restaurant and to a sunken dining area.

 

The food started arriving soon after….starting with the standards, Coban Salatsi (Shephard's Salad), et al…..

 

 

 

Then a very friendly older gentleman arrived at the table carrying at ceramic container. He placed it on the table, left and brought back a plate with pickled cabbage and rice on it.

 

Holding the container firmly with one hand, he gave the pottery a good whack while turning around in a circle. Eventually, the top gave way…. we could literally smell the wonderful fragrances as he poured the stew onto a plate.

There was quite a large portion of the stew in that container, and it was very tasty.

 

 A wonderful, almost smokey flavor had permeated everything in the piece of pottery. The lamb was still fairly chewy, but very tasty…you knew you were eating lamb. The vegetables literally melted in your mouth. This was one of the more memorable dishes we had during our trip.

I'm glad we took the time to make sure we ordered this; the rest of the dishes at Dibek were average at best….most of it sorely lacking in salt.

 

 

That testi kebab made up for any other shortcomings the meal may have had…… we could not stop dipping the bread (and since this was Turkey, there was a lot of it!) in that wonderful sauce! We left satisfied and ready to hit the sack.

Tomorrow was going to be a busy day!