Five Foodies Attack Tacos in Yuma

Today ed (from Yuma) wants you to join Tina and him and some others for tacos. Kirk or Cathy will be your tour guide for the blog's next post.

Just like Chaucer's pilgrims headed toward Canterbury, true foodies all make a trip to that culinary Mecca of Yuma, Arizona.  Okay, stop laughing – just kidding.  But recently we were fortunate to have Rich Kaszeta, a professional bacon photographer (among other careers) and a food blogger from New Hampshire  (Offbeat Eats) visit our desert metropolis.

Even though he claimed to be in town for work, it seemed like his real — though secret — purpose was to eat as much Mexican food as he could in a week.  Micaela, her husband Brian, Tina, and I joined him for one evening of tacoing on 8th St (Calle Ocho).

Since we wanted to try places that the others had not visited before, we started at Asadero Los Compadres, which Tina and I had tracked down to its new location at the corner of 8th and 20th Ave:IMG_1487 After we ordered the tacos, we were given a couple of squeeze bottles and a standard wheel of condiments:IMG_1476 Certainly nothing very special here. The best, in my opinion was the pico de gallo (also sometimes called salsa la bandera):IMG_1477 The yellow squeeze bottle contained guacamole sauce that was rather thin and not especially full of avocado flavor.  The red bottle contained a very fiery salsa.

The only Agua Fresca available was a homemade jamaica:IMG_1479 It was decent, but for me, nothing to write home about — but you never know about somebody whose home is in New Hampshire.

We each ordered uno taco de cabeza:IMG_1480 uno de asada:IMG_1481 y uno de pastor:IMG_1483 My favorite was the cabeza, which was rich, soft, and deeply flavored.

Of course that preference may be because I misjudged how spicy the red salsa was, so my other two tacos tasted mostly like fire.  Chewy and flavorful fire, indeed, but too saucy for me to discern much else. Kirk would have loved them.  The general concensus of the others was that the pastor was good, and Rich and Tina, in particular, said the Asada seemed tender, smoky, and fresh.  Perhaps that is a result of the outdoor grill on which the pieces of steak were cooked:IMG_1486 After pausing to appreciate the sunset, which made even the parking lot of a service station seem kind of beautiful, IMG_1488 we went off to the next place, Corona:3665548655_f4885842b2_o[1] (2) (Thanks, Rich, for that photo)

To be honest, I had been a little disappointed in los Compadres, though that may have been partly my own overzealous squeezing. It had been good, but not outstanding, so I approached Corona with some trepidation; after all, I had not been that impressed with it on my last visit.

That just goes to show how little I know because all of us thought that Corona was, on this evening at least, the better of the two.  Here, the condiments are lined up on a counter, but unfortunately my picture doesn't show the grilled jalapenos and onions:IMG_1489 I started with a chicken taco and an Asada taco:IMG_1493 We all agreed that the chicken was outstanding, flavorful, tender, and moist.  The best chicken taco I've eaten in Yuma.  While the Asada had a nice smoky flavor, it seemed a little chewier than the Asada at the first taco truck. I can't say more.

Before we began eating, someone said "Micaela's tacos are so pretty, you need to take a picture of them."  So I did:IMG_1496 And yes, those are beautiful tacos. And you can also see how much a person can alter/develop/influence the taste of his/her taco by choosing different combos of condiments.

As we were eating, every one was praising the pastor, so I had to have one of those as well. After decoration, it looked like this:IMG_1500 Although the meat was a little greasy, the taste of the pastor was excellent — succulent, tender, smokey and fully flavored. In general, we thought it better than the pastor at los Compadres.

We also appreciated that a free bowl of beans came with each order:
IMG_1494 While not the world's finest frijoles, they were still welcome. Of course, we could have added onion, cilantro, and roasted jalapeno etc to the little bowls, but none of us was thinking clearly that evening. 

In addition, we all loved the limonada (oops, not pictured), though Brian and Micaela reported that the horchata was a little grainy at the bottom.

While these two trucks may not be the very best in Yuma, Rich assured us that they were better than any in New Hampshire.  In any case, we all had a good time, and as Micaela said, "it's so nice to go out with people who don't think that it's weird to talk about food all night."  Yup, she's right about that!

Ah So Sushi and Steak: Yuma

Mmm-yoso is Kirk's wonderful foodblog. Sometimes he lets Cathy and others share their meals with you. In his last post, ed (from Yuma) discussed a wonderful Japanese meal in San Diego County. This post is different.

Most of us Yuma locals were excited a few years ago when we got an allegedly Japanese restaurant:IMG_1442 Some of my enthusiasm melted away when a group of us came in for a Friday lunch, and somehow my order got lost in the system.  At first, the server didn't even seem to notice that one of us had not received a meal.  When I finally tracked her down and re-placed my order, the food still didn't arrive.  When I finally located a manager — and that required finding the bartender and explaining everything to him — the manager insisted that my wait was not extraordinary since the time on the computerized order was only 20 minutes previous.  I had to explain everything twice, before he understood that I had been in the restaurant for nearly an hour and that my friends had already finished their meals and I hadn't gotten a simple sushi combo yet. I was hungry, and when hungry, I get crabby.

Nonetheless, I decided to give the restaurant another chance.  I doubt if I will ever forget that visit as I sat at the sushi bar and ordered various nigiri.  As the itamae was bragging that the chain had restaurants in 44 different states, he was preparing me an order of saba, pouring vast quantities of sauce over the fish. Why? One foul and nasty taste answered that question and told me that the fish was, like Nemerov's Goosefish,"most ancient and corrupt and grey."  The horror. I shudder everytime I think about it. The single worst sushi I have ever been served. Ever.

Hope does spring eternal, however, and when I saw that Ah So had been voted the best Asian restaurant in Yuma, I decided to give it another couple of shots.  Maybe it had gotten better.

When I showed up both times at lunch, I tried to come with an open mind.  I was pleased that icewater arrives with a lemon slice that I didn't even need to request:IMG_1408 The miso soup is consistently thin, light but balanced in flavor, and lacking almost any content except for a couple shards of seaweed, a  few thin circles of green onion, and on one visit, a cube of tofu the size of a garden pea.  Nonetheless, it was certainly satisfactory:IMG_1267 For my first visit, I decided to order something safe, something almost impossible to screw up, tempura:IMG_1271 At first glance, this looked okay.  There were several sizable shrimps and assorted vegetable pieces nicely arranged into a tower on the plate.

But when I looked more closely, I couldn't see any of the delicate lace like crunchies that typify a Panko crust:IMG_1273 Putting aside any concerns, I started with the onion ring; after all, I've liked almost every onion ring I've ever eaten, at least to some extent.  Well, not this one.  First, there seemed to be no onion, at least none that I could taste.  In fact, the only taste the ring had was stale cooking oil and greasy breading.  Truly unpleasant.

The next item I tried was a slice of, I think, sweet potato:IMG_1275 What I mean is that it looked sort of like it had some sweet potato in at, but the paperthin vegetable was overwhelmed by the greasy coating.

After wiping the grease off my fingers,  I attacked one of the large shrimp, biting off the end.  But there was no shrimp there.  The last half-inch of the shrimp shaped thing I had put in my mouth was simply breading.  After I peeled off the dense exterior, my large shrimp turned into something slightly smaller than my little finger, a truly shrimpy shrimp:IMG_1276 It was also desiccated and flavorless.  Yuck!

When I was finished, I left behind a nearly full bowl of unappetizing breading:IMG_1279 To be fair, I wanted to give the place one more chance, so I returned to try a sushi combo.  The $12 combination arrived at my table looking very pretty:IMG_1411 The chef had done a good job arranging the items so that the colors were balanced.  It really was an attractive and inviting tray.

The California roll was decent.  While the sushi rice could have been seasoned better, at least the roll was not packed with mayonnaise.  In the mouth, I could not detect the flavor of the krab or wasabi, but the creamy avocado was pleasant and the cucumber crunch was a nice contrast.

The tuna, even with its neon pink color, was okay, although it finished with a slight background metallic flavor that I found marginally unpleasant.  But mostly, it seemed a bit dried out and had very little flavor of any sort at all:IMG_1413 Ditto the whitefish:IMG_1414 It is possible that this was hirame, but it could've been any mild whitefish for all the flavor that it had.

One of the highlights of the nigiri was, oddly enough, the krab.  This was good quality imitation crustacean and was the most moist and flavorful thing I put into my mouth during the entire meal.

The ebi was okay as well, though a bit dried out and having only a very mild shrimp flavor.  Again, however, the item seemed severely underseasoned.  This time after I only bit off half of the piece, I lifted the remaining shrimp off of the rice ball and discovered why all the nigiri had been exceptionally bland.  There was no wasabi anywhere.

Perhaps the restaurant expects that its customers are going to drown their sushi in the brownish swamp that forms when you stir an entire serving of wasabi into a couple tablespoons of soy sauce.  And maybe if I had done that, there would've been more flavor to each of the pieces — but not a flavor I enjoy much anymore.

The worst single piece of fish was the albacore:IMG_1416 It tasted tired and a little off.  It was also mushy in texture and left an unpleasant aftertaste that lingered long after the meal was finished. I hate bad albacore burps.

The salmon was certainly better than the albacore, but like so many other items, it lacked much depth of flavor, richness, or intensity. No way unpleasant, just passably mediocre:IMG_1415 I saved the tamago for last.  Mostly, it was sweet and dense.  Still, not really bad at all.  In fact, the sushi combination was adequate enough that I could eat it again, though most likely, not again real soon.

In other words, I still don't like this restaurant very much. So how did this place get voted #1? Well, it is located at the mall and seems to be a popular dating location. It serves alcohol. Maybe in the company of an attractive friend, after several beers, the food seems pretty good.

Still, I think the restaurant should change its name.  Instead of "Ah So," how about "Ah Ful So So," or maybe "So So Ah Ful"? Those seem right to me.

Ah-So Sushi & Steak, 1325 S Yuma Palms Pkwy, Yuma, AZ 85365 (928) 329-7442

Mimi’s Café: Meals at the Faux Château (Yuma)

Kirk eats at chains; Cathy eats at chains; today ed (from Yuma) will let you know that he sometimes eats at chains too.

After Mimi's Café opened a branch here in Yuma, I kept getting reports from friends who liked the food.  So about a year ago, Tina and I descended on the restaurant to try a dinner.

From the outside, the place looks like a rustic châteaux (containing one or two small warehouses) plucked from the banks of the Loire and dropped into the middle of a large asphalt parking lot:IMG_0698

Inside, this same cultural/architectural mishmash rules.  You have the parque ceiling (I believe this is the correct term) like a 19th-century French bistro in the main room: IMG_0677 you have open beamed ceilings and a fake balcony (not shown) in the New Orleans room (a New Orleans room?):IMG_0678 and then you have a Romanesque barrel vaulted area that would bring to mind a medieval monastery with electric lighting, if of course the bricks were real:
IMG_0675 Nonetheless, some things about our first meal were very good.  Along with rather ordinary French bread, we received two slices of savory whole-wheat nut bread:IMG_1418 Tina's Mediterranean Chicken Fettuccine, though containing numerous ingredients, was focused and tasty:
IMG_1424 The creamy asiago sauce, though a bit greasy, was not as heavy and rich as an Alfredo and didn't overwhelm the other flavors.  There were just enough chunks of chicken, and the pasta, while not aldente, was not overcooked.  Spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, and marinated artichoke hearts added complexity to the flavor and color to the presentation.  A few chopped fresh tomatoes cubes and shreds of domestic Parmesan lay across the top of the noodles.

My chicken piccata was an attractive plate:IMG_1429 As you can see, the two slices of chicken breast, showing grill marks, and four well prepared grilled and moist asparagus spears were the culinary stars of this dish.  What this picture barely shows, however, is that the poultry and the veggies lay atop a large mound of mashed potatoes.  Now I love mashed potatoes as much as the next person, but I really couldn't understand combining spuds with an Italian style main course.  In addition, while the flavors of everything worked fine, this entrée seemed to me to be as much a product of an accountant as a chef.  The mushroom was very thinly sliced,  only three capers dotted the meat, and the amount of lemony piccata sauce was slightly less than would be needed to flavor the two chicken slices.  No sauce for the potatoes — though to be honest, they had a nice buttery flavor.

The side salad with ranch dressing was also decent.  The nice lettuce mix had shredded carrot, a couple of cucumber slices, a few bits of diced fresh tomato, and three large mass-produced croutons.  The amount of dressing seemed calculated to moisten the greens and veggies with nothing left over:IMG_1431 I selected a glass of Sauvignon Blanc from the minimalist wine list and was pleased to see that the restaurant had figured out the glass-of-wine conundrum:IMG_1420 What I mean is that serving a single glass of wine presents a restaurant with a problem.  If it uses small glasses, the wine must be filled up to the brim, which all of us winos know robs the wine of fragrance.  On the other hand, large stemware is much more expensive, and some customers feel cheated if the wine doesn't fill the glass.  Here the wine was served in a small carafe so that no one would feel cheated, the restaurant could use inexpensive stemware, and a customer could swirl the wine around in the glass.

The service on this (and every subsequent visit) was competent, professional, and friendly–clearly the staff is well trained.

As you can probably tell by the tone of this report so far, I was both amused and impressed by the ambiance, the businesslike way that Mimi's was managed, and by the generally competent cuisine.

On subsequent occasions, we have visited the restaurant for breakfast, mostly because my favorite local breakfast place has gone out of business (RIP Arnie's).  In general, our breakfast experiences at Mimi's have been hit and miss.  A good illustration of this was my recent order of waffles with sausage and egg:IMG_1341 The two sausages were large and good, with standard breakfast sausage spicing and a firm meaty texture — no greasy mouth feel at all.  The waffles, while nice looking, lacked any crispness and were dense and heavy. The over-easy eggs were well past easy:IMG_1346 However, their fried eggs here usually have a nice crispy edge to them: IMG_0968 On the other hand, some of the items on the breakfast menu are truly mediocre.  The orange juice is generic at best, the latte substandard, and while the blueberry muffin looks good:IMG_0684 It is a reminder that at Mimi's sometimes looks are deceiving:IMG_0687 The bran muffin, on the other hand, was outstanding (bran must be cheaper than blueberries):IMG_0682 When Tina ordered the Cajun sausage with scrambled eggs and potato, the whole dish didn't quite reach okay.  The sausage had a peculiar taste (to my mind at least) and the home fries were flavorless and crunchless:IMG_0689 My Monterey Omelette (with which I had "fresh fruit" instead of the potatoes) looked very pretty, but was pretty disappointing:IMG_0692 Instead of being light and fluffy, the eggs were two dense slabs separated by a slice of flavorless jack cheese dotted with bits of real bacon. The visible part of the omelette was covered with more of the mediocre cheese, the only slice of avocado on the plate, and an additional strip of bacon (which looked better than it tasted).  The best part about this breakfast was the outstanding roasted tomato salsa.

Even the attractive fruit left something to be desired:IMG_0691 The pineapple was still in its rind, and a couple of the almost hidden grapes were rotten instead of fresh.

On the other hand, some of our breakfast experiences have been more positive.  The eggs ranchero bowl, though containing some of the mediocre potatoes, has been a really a nice take on Huevos Rancheros:IMG_1340 The beans are black beans, the tortilla is crunchy, and the two salsas (one chipotle and one tomatillo) add two good flavors.

My favorite breakfast item has been the cinnamon raisin French toast:IMG_0969 While the toast is not especially eggy, its whole-wheat raisin bread with cinnamon is very good.  Unfortunately, on my last visit, this great item was missing from the menu. Who knows why.

Obviously, if this restaurant were truly bad, I wouldn't continue to try it again. I find the ambience and the decorations to be amusing and am impressed by the consistently good service.  Occasionally the ambience, which seems like what you would find in an independent eatery, is almost enough to make me forget I'm eating in a chain:IMG_0674 And then I remember that the wine advertised on the poster is not available at the restaurant and the homey photos on the wall are just stock pictures. All is as real as the bronze fiddler. At Mimi's, there often is less than meets the eye. More surface than depth. This is a restaurant run by illusionists and bean counters — but it must be said, very competent ones.

Mimi's Cafe Yuma, 1690 South Pacific Drive, 928-783-2680

Yummy Yummy Cantonese in Yuma

Kirk has his rotation, and Cathy has her favorites, but today, ed (from Yuma) wants to share info about his #1.

I guess I should begin this post by being completely honest.  Yummy Yummy is my favorite restaurant on earth.  Don't misunderstand me.  It is far from the best restaurant I've been to or even the best that I have eaten at recently.  It is far from unique.  I suspect that there is a similar restaurant in many cities with a Cantonese community.

It also is not my favorite restaurant because of  its sticky tables, minimal decor, or downscale location nearly hidden in a corner of Palm Plaza on Avenue A:IMG_1190 Instead, it is the food that brings me back to this place again and again.  So I want to share with all of you a guide to my favorite spot - so that you can enjoy the place almost as much as I do. Warning, this post is LONG.

 To take one example, the kitchen shows itself to be excellent at deep frying.  These two fried chicken entrées are among our favorites. In neither case is the chicken breaded because the chicken is fried so well that its exterior becomes fully crunchy:IMG_1197 IMG_1224 The yummy yummy chicken, the top picture, is chunks of boneless fried chicken topped with vegetables and crushed peanuts.  I actually prefer the second of these dishes, simply called fried chicken and vegetables. Here the back half of a chicken is chopped into pieces, deep-fried on the bone, and topped with vegetables and a standard Chinese sauce. Like fried chicken and gravy — only better.

The frying technique even enlivens old standards.  For years, I resisted ordering such an "ordinary" dish as sweet and sour pork, but when a friend wanted it, I got to taste it — and enjoyed it thoroughly.  While the sauce breaks no new ground, the pork chunks are perfectly cooked — crispy crisp with no residual grease, each bite beginning with a crunch:IMG_1211 This skill at the deep fryer also shows up in the tofu dishes, which will always be served fried unless you specify steamed tofu:IMG_0430 I still remember dragging a colleague in here one evening and ordering a tofu dish to share as he was moaning and complaining that he hated tofu.  Two bites only and his attitude shifted 180°. Why? The fried tofu has a perfect combination of creamy soft interior and thin skin with just the right bite to it.

Of course, discussing the find tofu dishes here brings up another aspect of the food at Yummy Yummy that makes the place a winner — they know how to use spicy chilies.  Look at these two tofu dishes:IMG_0429 IMG_1207 The plate at the top is tofu and beef, cooked spicy, and the bottom one is tofu and vegetables, also prepared spicy. The family that owns the restaurant was born in Guangdong, but lived for several years in Mexicali, where Mary, the owner/manager/waitstaff, had an uncle who owned a Chinese restaurant.  There the family learned Spanish and how to cook with dried red chilies.

The kitchen will also prepare spicy steamed tofu dishes. Recently, I ordered spicy steamed tofu with bbqed pork and received this:IMG_1302 Wonderful spicy sauce and creamy tofu. Adding to the textural contrasts of the tofu, shiitakes, and chewy pork was the crunch of strips of pickled veggie (huh? never had that here before). But the slight sour tangy crunch was perfect in this item. Not as good as Kirk's mapo tofu, but about the best spicy soft tofu dish I've ever had at a restaurant.

In fact, most of the dishes on the menu, such as those spicy tofu dishes, can be prepared picante, even if that option is not listed as  on the menu.  I prefer the seafood combination plate made spicy:IMG_0721 While the sliced fish balls and squid pieces are always perfect, sometimes the small shrimp and fish pieces need the added flavor of the chili peppers.  I also think the krab here, the type that tends to be pasty rather than stringy, tastes better spiced as well.

The kung pao squid (also known as squid in spicy sauce) is almost always excellent, the tender chewy squid contrasting nicely with the crunch of onion and celery, the mild seafood flavor lit up by the picante chilies:IMG_0936 Another favorite is the Kung pao chicken.  Usually the tender chicken is highlighted by crunchy celery, water chestnut, baby corn, carrot, and onions:IMG_1196 This dish is always a winner and shows off the deep intensity of the chili flavor that the restaurant is capable of.

Another of my favorite items is pork ribs in black bean sauce. On the old menu, it was listed as pork ribs with chilies in black bean sauce, and that is how I always order it. This entree brings together chunks of pork ribs, fresh yellow chilies, and outstanding black beans:IMG_1227 Until Kirk provided me with a detailed description of which black beans to purchase at the Ranch 99 market, I was never aware that there was a wide variation from one type to another.  Now I understand why the dishes at Yummy Yummy that feature black beans are always so good.  Their beans are deeply flavored, soft in texture, and rich with dark chocolate flavor notes.

The black bean chicken with chilies is also outstanding:IMG_1192 Another dish that uses black beans here is their version of shrimp in lobster sauce:
IMG_1223 Unlike the bland and goopy versions often served, this preparation focuses on the flavor of the shrimp and vegetables, lightly highlighted by the eggy black bean sauce. Note, this dish is found nowhere on the current menu.  When the menu was redesigned five years ago or so, shrimp and lobster sauce was left off.  But it is still available.

Which leads me to another point about Yummy Yummy. If possible, the kitchen will cook off menu, and the menu does not reflect all of the items that are usually available.  For example, the menu simply lists Chinese vegetables as an option.  Occasionally, they have none, but sometimes Chinese vegetables can be baby bok choy in a ginger and garlic sauce:IMG_1202 Or baby bok choy with barbecued pork (or with Chinese sausage or with beef or with chicken — however you want):IMG_0176 Or bitter melon prepared with beef and black beans:
IMG_0435 Or Chinese greens (Mary usually calls them choi sum) in foo-yee sauce:
IMG_1212 Or green beans (or long beans, when available) in foo yee:IMG_1144 This was an especially great dish. So good that I had to take a picture after I had already eaten some of it. These veggie preparations are such a treat for me that I almost always ask what is available that day.

Mary is also willing to prepare vegetables that I bring from supermarkets, from San Diego, or from the Asian market in town.  In February and March, which is our local asparagus season, I will often bring in asparagus for the kitchen to prepare.  Once recently, I had brought in some special dried Chinese mushrooms, and I was served this:IMG_1234 Although I have ordered many dishes from the kitchen using steamed tofu (remember that fried tofu is the default option here), I have usually asked for the steamed tofu in a spicy sauce as shown earlier.  This creation, however, focused on the silken smoothness of the tofu, which played against the chewiness of the mushrooms.  The delicate and woodsy flavor of the shrooms added a rich subtlety to the tofu. This was another dish that I had never eaten before.

I just want to end this long post with pictures of a few other standard dishes that most of us enjoy at Yummy Yummy.  For example, the garlic shrimp (this is at least a triple order)– marinated in garlic and Worcestershire sauce — make a good appetizer:IMG_0434 While the chicken chow mein here is boring, the special chow mein is highlighted by a mixture of vegetables and meat:
IMG_0431 Similarly, the chicken chop suey (one of the best choices on the $4.25 specials menu) is not as good as the fancier special chop suey:
IMG_0937 Wonderfully tasty sprouts, and I particularly like the anise flavored Chinese sausage in the "special" dishes.

If you like beef, the Mongolian beef (no scallions, oddly enough) and the sweeter pineapple beef (pictured here) are both good choices:IMG_1216 Beef, chicken, and shrimp are all available with the standard vegetables (usually with alot of broccoli) and are good and reasonably healthy:IMG_1220 While not a favorite of most of my friends, the chicken and abalone is one I like because of the subtle blending of the chicken flavor with that of the canned abalone strips:IMG_1297 As with the sweet and sour pork, I had never tried egg foo yung here until friends at one of our Yummy Yummy feasts suggested it.  It is quite good also:IMG_1204 Perhaps now, if you have read through this long post, you begin to understand why Yummy Yummy is my favorite restaurant. All the basic Cantonese standards are done well here. I get my Asian food Jones taken care of, my addiction assuaged. The kitchen is willing to work with customers and vary dishes on occasion. Virtually all items are less than $10, and the menu has specials for less than $5. Even though I have eaten at Yummy Yummy or taken food to go  around 400 times, I still look forward to eating there again. If anything  happened to this restaurant, my life would be impacted severely.  I would not eat nearly as well, nor party as hearty.

Which brings up one last point.  As I have become more familiar with the restaurant and Mary has become more familiar with me and my friends, she has been allowing us to bring wine and wine glasses for parties (in fact, my only previous YY post was about a meatless feast here back in 2007). I like to let Mary know in advance if a large group is coming and about any special requests we might have.  So now, about once a month, a varied group of us will get together and feast; this lets us all taste a range of interesting dishes (and wine and friendship are good things too).  Yummy Yummy is also about the cheapest wining and dining experience in town. And one of the best — at any price.

Yummy Yummy, 2241 S. Ave A, Ste 23, Palm Plaza, Yuma AZ 85364, 928-376-0419. Open 10:30-8:30 Daily

Meals on Wheels: More Carts and Trucks in Yuma

Kirk has survived Mexico City and enjoyed Guatemala. Cathy is traveling all over San Diego looking for food. But ed (from Yuma) is focused on a different kind of moveable feasting.

One of the best parts about living in Yuma are the mobile dining options — no, not eating in your car, but eating at one of the numerous informal semi-portable carts, trucks, or movable kitchens that dot parking lots and empty fields around town.

To begin with, I want to share a couple of photos of a campechana at Tio Juan's on 8th St (previous post). Their version tends to be the funkiest and fishiest around, which I think is a good thing.  On my last visit, I found an unusual clam hiding in the clamato lime shrimp water:

IMG_0874 This Mexican black clam combined a nice fresh flavor with a perfect texture, firm but not rubbery.  The shrimps in the cocktail were, as always, perfectly cooked and pristine in flavor:

IMG_0875 Often the seafood trucks, such as Tio Juan's and Juanita's, close around dinner time just as many of the meat carts are firing up their grills.  One evening, we got lucky arriving at this hot dog cart (On Ave 5E close to Hwy 95) just as it was opening:

IMG_0826 Only a few of the dogs were ready to eat, and some had just been placed on the comal:

IMG_0827 

Tina and I both thought that this was one of the better perros we have ever eaten: 
IMG_0837 The sausage was not overcooked or dried out, the chilied frijoles had a nice rich flavor, and the chopped green chile salsa packed a punch.

While there was no floor show this evening, there certainly was a beautiful sky show:

IMG_0833 Another one of the pleasures of dining al fresco.

On another evening we enjoyed doggy dining at Rossy's on 8th St almost to C. It was a different style dog:
IMG_0146 (2) Unlike many other places where the customer is responsible for adding condiments to taste, the helpful ladies at Rossy's are happy to load up the bacon wrapped wiener with their favorite ingredients.  The grill-charred onions were impressive, and the over-the-top toppings and warm steamed bun were the stars of this doggy delight.

Another place that Tina and I thoroughly enjoyed was El Pino, where the mobile kitchen sits outside an old house on 8th St, almost directly across from Pupuseria Cabanas:

IMG_0839 Just as some carts focus on hot dogs, this place has its specialties as well.  The taquitos (rolled tacos) here, filled with soft and flavorful mashed potatoes, are simply outstanding:

IMG_0844 This is a dish difficult to prepare perfectly.  Too long in the deep fryer and the mashed potatoes become dry and overcooked; too short and the rolled shells lack the requisite crunch.  As Goldilocks said, this one was just right.  The crisp cabbage and the creamy mayo and sour cream contributed to the contrast of textures.  As plain as they look, these are the best potato tacos I've ever eaten.

Also outstanding was the horchata – thick, rich, and spicy with cinnamon:

IMG_0843 In order to have a balanced meal, clearly we needed some vegetable, so we ordered coctele de elote, a corn cocktail:

IMG_0842 Yes, there are numerous chewy whole kernels of real maize (not the watery/sugary American style sweet corn) underneath the butter, grated cheese, and crema.  Really, trust me on this.

I eagerly looked forward to visiting Tacos El Jarocho at 24th and Pacific because
the proprietor used to operate a small restaurant (also called El Jarocho) that featured some of the most interesting, unique, and flavorful Mexican food in all of Yuma:

IMG_0823  
On this evening we had asada, carnitas, lengua, and cabeza tacos:
IMG_0824 Except for the rich cabeza, none of the meats was special, and the range of condiments and grilled vegetables was limited. I also missed the standard amenities, such as chairs and tables. Maybe my expectations were too high, but  this was a bit of a disappointment. Still, it'd be a good place to pick up a quick taco – or two.

In contrast, we were delighted by a visit to this nameless two truck Mexican establishment at the far end of what is going to be a taco cart food court on 8th St just beyond Avenue C :

IMG_1179 Earlier in the year, Tina and I had tried Los Compadres in this lot, before that truck relocated. The lot is large with several cement pads and electrical hookups, so I expect this location will feature more food choices down the road.

I checked out the grill before we even sat down and was impressed by the asada and the cebollitas rojas:

IMG_1158 We decided to start with an aguafresca as the restaurant had its fruit drinks out on display:

IMG_1159 We picked mango and loved it. Full of tropical flavor and dense with mango fruit, this hit the spot:

IMG_1161 Then the complementary Mexican red, white, and green onions arrived:

IMG_1163 These were wonderful. As I bit off the head, the moist bulb squeezed out of its skin and plopped into my mouth. It was tender, smoky, and sweet. Followed by the soft flavor and aromas of roasted green onion. Yep, better than good.

Next came the beans. A mixture of two varieties, these were a step above the usual:

IMG_1164 Then the condiments, which were nothing special, though the salsa had a round almost sweet mild spiciness:

IMG_1166 They were followed by the tacos, which arrived in shiny packaging, glittering like the stars of the show:

IMG_1168 The asada was very beefy with the lightest touch of seasoning:

IMG_1170 The pastor, grilled of course, was tender and likewise mild in flavor:

IMG_1175 The cabeza was enormously rich and densely meaty. The emphasis in the prep was again to highlight the flavor of the flesh:

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Just to prove that we balance the carne with condiments, here's a typically decorated taco:

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Our meal here was $18, and we felt we had gotten a good deal. All the flavors had been natural and fresh. Although little English is spoken, little Spanish is needed to receive friendly service and good food.

And that is about standard around here. I am always welcomed at these little places, and I usually enjoy the street food. I guess that's why I kinda hate the term "roach coach" because all these places seem clean, and most of the food is made with care and love.

Culinary Arts Dinner at AWC: Yuma

Kirk is off in Central America. Cathy's in San Diego. And ed (from Yuma) had a meal in Yuma he thought you might enjoy.

Getting a meal at a cooking school can be a great experience.  Your feedback can help an aspiring chef hone her or his skills.  At the same time, you often get an excellent meal at a bargain price.  I still have fond memories of a duck breast in cherry sauce at some culinary Academy in Columbus, Ohio, 30 years ago.

Even before I moved to Yuma, I had heard about the culinary arts dinners at Arizona Western College.  Every spring semester, the wannabe professional cooks prepare multicourse dinners for a few fortunate customers.  These days, the events are not even advertised since the tiny dining room holds only 24 guests.

On a recent Tuesday evening, Tina and I and some other friends (including Ms. K, an old chum of Tina's, who was visiting from France) sat down expectantly for a meal. All that we knew was that cornish game hen would be the main course. Soon, each of us was served a charcuterie platter, featuring pâté, galantine, and homemade sausage:

IMG_1107 The meats were accompanied by lightly dressed greens and a creamy mustard sauce.  While not overly rich, the pâté and the galantine (which has a light bread crust) were subtle and mild, with complex porky flavors.  K was very impressed that she was being served gallantine out here in the southwest corner of the Arizona desert.  My favorite of the three was the sausage, the heartiest and most deeply flavorful.  Altogether, this was a mighty impressive starter.

The celeriac and tart apple salad – not so much:

IMG_1111 I appreciated its vegetably crunch, and the flavors of the root and the fruit complemented each other.  The light dressing stayed nicely in the wings.  But it was just too much unvaried crunch for my palate.  Perhaps the celeriac could have been shredded finer, as K thought.  Perhaps I am simply complaining about the size of the portion.  The first quarter of the salad tasted pretty good actually.

Just before the soup course, the bread bowl showed up:

IMG_1114 This was decent herbed bread.  The crust had a light crunch and the moist crumb had a good wheaty and herby flavor. Good fresh bread.

And then came the cream of wild mushroom soup, which just blew me away:

IMG_1116 For the only time in the evening, the portion seemed small.  But it is truly unfair for me to complain because this was a mind boggling  mushroom soup.  The flavors of cream, dried thyme, and marsala wine worked in the background.  In the foreground was the amazing flavor of puréed wild mushrooms.  Unlike the mushroom soup at the Better Half, which was primarily portobello, or the soup at the Radisson in Yuma, which was dominated by porcinis, this one was redolent with mixed exotic mushrooms – criminis, shiitakes, oysters, and even morels. A bouquet of flavors.

The main course arrived looking beautiful.  Three crispy tender green spears of asparagus lay on a large roasted game hen that had a nice browned breast.  It lay on a bed of rice/wild rice stuffing, and the plate was color balanced by some beautiful ratatouille:

IMG_1119 To my mind, the poultry was perfectly cooked, moist and tender.  At least as well prepared as the half hen at the Better Half. The wild rice combo was very good, if not quite as rich and complex as at the Better Half. I kept thinking "what are the odds having these 3 same things in two meals . . . ?" I guess I shoulda played the lottery.

One of the highlights on the plate was the ratatouille, something not paralleled in the other meal.  K thought that it was slightly underdone, but I actually appreciated the freshness and complexity of this mixed vegetable dish.  While each vegetable had been cooked so that none was crunchy, none was soft either.  It was also a very attractive side:

IMG_1121 The meal finished with desert.  The menu said it was going to be cheesecake with fresh berries, but sometimes locating truly fresh berries can be problematic in Yuma.  So desert looked like this:
IMG_1125 The lemon cheesecake broke no new ground, but it was rich and the touch of tangy lemon nicely highlighted the sweetness of the cake.  The chocolate dipped strawberry was, well, a decent chocolate dipped strawberry.  The raspberry coulis made the little plate pretty.

All in all, this was great dining.  Not every dish was a home run, but for $25 (total, no tax and no tip), the meal touched all the bases. Nobody left hungry; in fact, most couples had about an entire game hen with sides leftover for future meals. The service, provided by the students, was professional. If only they let us bring in wine . . .

Crêpes ‘n Cafe: French Cuisine in Yuma

This is Kirk's wonderful foodblog, mmm-yoso, where Kirk and friends share food experiences that range from ohso yummy to ohso different. Today ed (from Yuma) wants to share a place with you folks that is both yummy and different.

[Sad to report that this place is closed. Supposedly, the owner is looking for a restaurant location]

Great News!! The truck has moved out to Foothills and is now at 11350 Fortuna Rd. It's open 7am to 7pm Tuesday through Sunday with much the same menu. 928-785-7581.

March 2011 update: The truck has now gone permanently. Too bad.

The most recent news concerning the culinary scene in Yuma is the grand opening of our first authentic French restaurant, one with an actual French person as the chef.  Who would have thought such a thing was possible here?  And who would've thought that our first French restaurant would look like this?IMG_0869

I recently pulled into the parking lot outside the Del Sol Market at the corner of 16th St and 4th Ave, hungry for breakfast.  Almost instantly after placing my order with the waiter/chef/owner, I received a cup of the coffee deluxe($2):IMG_0972

This cup of powerful and dark coffee was topped with whipped cream and chocolate chips and dusted with a generous shake of cinnamon.  But the beverage was just the introduction, for soon I was presented with this crêpe, adorned with whipped cream and fresh blueberries:IMG_0975 The first time I ordered a meal at Crêpes 'n Cafe, I was surprised to receive a squarish packet because all of my previous (limited) experience with crêpes was with the rolled variety, the ones that look something like enchiladas.  I have since learned that this rectangular style of crêpe is very popular in France and is called crêpe de Bretagne since it is a specialty of the Brittany region.

But one does not discover the real joy of any of these tasty treats, until one cuts into them and exposes the secret interior:IMG_0977 This one was filled with fresh blueberries and blueberry juices ($6).  The flavor match was nearly perfect as each bite began with sweet blueberry goodness, but finished with a slight tangy tartness that refreshed the palate.  A perfect breakfast — way better than a Danish.

But crêpes are not just breakfast food, and in fact, the majority of items on the small menu here are savory crêpes. Unlike the sweet crêpes, these are made with a buckwheat blend flour and are always accompanied by a little lettuce for textual contrast: IMG_0865

In fact, this is the first one I ate at the restaurant, and it is called the Jacky ($5).  As you can see, it contains mushrooms, cheese, and garlic:
IMG_0868 As I started tasting this wonderful concoction, I realized it was love at first bite.  The classic flavor profile of cheese and garlic made my mouth truly happy.  So happy, in fact, that I went for hours without brushing my teeth just so that taste would not go away.

Very similar in flavor is the crunchy ($5), which gets its name from the breadcrumbs that accompany the cheese, garlic, and olive oil:IMG_0918 

Another favorite is the Popeye ($6), in which the cheese is complemented by sour cream and spinach.  After finishing this one, Tina's first words were, "we've got to go back to this place again."  "Soon."IMG_0872 

Another savory variation is the blue potato ($6), a combination of potatoes, blue cheese, mushrooms, and sour cream. The chef has mastered balancing the ingredients, so that the cheese flavor extends throughout the crêpe without stifling the other tastes:IMG_1066

Another style of crêpe is what I call dessert crêpes. Of course, they would be great for breakfast too. One of the most beautiful is the "no comment," a delightful combo of whipped cream, white chocolate, and sliced fresh strawberries:IMG_1068 

It tastes as good as it looks:IMG_1070
A good way to end this post is by a look at another true dessert crêpe, the bourse ($6), which means purse in French.  The word also means stock market, but clearly the healthy shape of this treat precludes that meaning:IMG_0878 This particular crêpe is always filled with ice cream and whipped cream.  While sometimes done with chocolate syrup, the day I ordered it, the bourse was covered with strawberry syrup and tied shut with a whip of red licorice, making it almost as attractive as it was sweet and flavorful.

Cut into, this purse spilled its contents over the paper plate:

IMG_0880 Now that looks more like the stock market!

For the most part, I think this little crêpe cart is a wonderful addition to the Yuma dining scene.  Everything I have eaten from this place is well prepared and very tasty.  The flavor combinations are classics, and are classics for good reason.  Except that sometimes the line of customers and the wait for the food get too long, the place has few shortcomings.  Opening daily at 7 am, it seems to stay open through the dinner hour. Crêpes 'n Cafe is both very good and (at least out here in the desert) very unique. Vive la France!

The Market Restaurant at the Radisson: Yuma

While Kirk and Cathy are still eating and writing and preparing posts, today ed (from Yuma) wants to tell you about something new in the desert.

March 2011 update: The Recession hit this place hard. The food went on a slow decline (the last calamari I had there seemed to come frozen right out the the Sysco truck). The restaurant is still in business, but recently hired a new chef. I have not tried it recently. If you have, please comment here.

About a month ago, I was a volunteer pouring wine at the Yuma Art Center, which was hosting a wine tasting to benefit its galleries and collections.  A young man, who turned out to be the son of friends of friends, handed me several cards good for a free appetizer or dessert at the newly opened Market Restaurant.  At first, I felt special until I realized that virtually every attendee had received several of these cards.

Truth be told, I was not even aware that we had a new Radisson Hotel in Yuma, much less that it housed a restaurant with serious pretensions.  From the outside, the place looks very nice, and the restaurant is on the main floor on the right-hand side of this picture:

IMG_0752 The inside of the restaurant is bright, tastefully brash, stylish, and comfortable:

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IMG_0850 Within a week, the Munch Lunch Bunch arrived for a Friday lunch.  Most of the lunch orders looked positively yummy.  This pizza with sun dried tomatoes and fresh basil leaves was a work of art:

IMG_0766 Chip was very pleased with his burger and thought the light touch of blue cheese was a perfect complement to the beefiness of the patty.  He was also extremely impressed by the french fries, ordered extra crispy.  "The best I've had in town!"  he exclaimed:

IMG_0769 My sandwich was called shaved prime rib with boursin cheese on ciabatta (?) bread.  While nothing earth shattering, this roast beef and cheese sandwich was quite tasty.  The creamy cheese and the focaccia bread provided enough richness so that no other spread or topping was needed:

IMG_0772 All in all, the food had been good enough so I wanted to return for dinners.  One time, the first thing to hit our table was a rather unusual amuse bouche, deep-fried risotto balls served with marinara and a sprinkling of domestic Parmesan.  The crunchy exterior set off the creamy rice goodness inside. On my plate, one serving looked like this:

IMG_0851 Both dinners began with complementary pita bread, seemingly housemade, with a chewy texture and fresh-baked wheaty flavor.  Paired with balsamic and olive oil, it hit the spot:

IMG_0775 Also available was an appetizer choice of three spreads for the bread, one light Middle Eastern spiced tahini based, one centered on "Salmon caviar," and one dominated by blue cheese flavor.

Everyone was wowed by the blue cheese choice, the Greeky one provided a nice mild contrast, but I found the fish egg spread far too salty and fishy.  And I love ikura.

My favorite of the appetizer choices has been the calamari:

IMG_0754 It doesn't get any better than this.  The cracker crumb crust was incredibly crunchy.  The squid itself  was tender soft and flavorful.  Most of the seafood strips and circles were thick enough to provide a complete contrast to the breading.  The deep-fried cephalopod pieces were accompanied by a small ramekin of mild chile aioli.

I have also liked the spanikopida and the shrimp appetizer, which features three jumbo shrimp bathing in a tomato/feta sauce:
IMG_0783 One shortcomng to the restaurant's dinner menu has been the limited number of entrée choices.  My favorite of the pastas is this creamy vegetarian orrechietti:

IMG_0791 The restaurant prides itself on flying in fresh seafood daily, and I have had a very good chunk of sea bass wrapped in prosciutto with a mild red sauce the color of old bricks that tasted of sweet tomato. Though I would have preferred a more neutral side starch than the risotto it came with, it was a successful and flavorful plate.  You don't want to see the picture, trust me.  Greg had some well prepared Hawaiian yellowtail with a nice vegetable medley, although the mashed potatoes didn't strike me as the best of accompaniments.

Another strategy is simply to make a dinner out of the small plates.  On my first evening visit, I ended up with an appetizer for a main. So these lamb riblets became my entrée:

IMG_0796 (2) My apologies for the quality of that picture, but the curse of fine dining (for those of us who like to take food photographs) is that fine dining does not equal fine lighting.  The three lamb chops were perfectly prepared, cooked to an exact medium rare, and generously portioned.  The only thing not to like was the bed of overly salty deep-fried onions on which the chops lay.

On that same evening, I tasted a truly incredible dish.  When I heard that the soup special was a mushroom bisque, I just had to order it; plus it would be interesting to compare their version with the truly fine one that I had eaten at The Better Half over Christmas break.

But I wasn't prepared for this:

IMG_0788 This soup was OMG outstanding.  Seriously, I don't have enough superlatives to describe how good this tasted.  While a certain creaminess and a touch of marsala wine lay in the background, the dominating flavor was porcini mushroom.  That's not quite an adequate description; the taste of porcini mushroom was intense and pervasive.  It was not hard to find the reason for this intensity because every spoonful of soup turned up slices of chewy fresh porcinis:
IMG_0789 Along with some good cannoli, I was impressed by one other dessert, the deconstructed bananas foster. While the banana slices were nothing to rave about, the chocolaty brownie, topped with sweet mascarpone, golden brown caramel syrup, and a fresh raspberry was very good:

IMG_0801 I have no copy of the menu with me and poor notes, so I can only provide a general idea of prices. Except for the pastas (which were $15-19), mains were in the $20-25 range. The small plates run $5-10. To my mind these prices are fair, if not a screaming deal.

The restaurant is also building up a wine list and already has several excellent bottles to choose from:

IMG_0779 I should point out, however, that many early diners at The Market restaurant were disappointed by the lack of any listing of wines. Several people felt that they paid far more for wine than they should have.  Although the markups on the wine are now very fair (a $30 retail bottle selling for $55, a $19 bottle selling for $35, and a $58 bottle selling for $99), the list is still tilted toward the high-end consumer.  In these economic times, I think many individuals (not just us poor folk) would appreciate a wider range of value choices.

It's far too early to anoint the Market Restaurant at the Radisson as the culinary King of Yuma, and who knows how long the restaurant will continue to provide some truly outstanding food, but nonetheless, I must say that they have served me some of the finest fine dining dishes I have ever tasted in Yuma (hey, in some cases, anywhere).  I can only wish them the best of luck and continued success.

The Market Restaurant at The Radisson Hotel Yuma, 1501 S. Redondo Center Dr,  Yuma AZ  85365,  928-373-6563

Yuma: Jeannie Wah’s Chinese & American Bistro

It's ed again, over in Yuma, not Kirk or Cathy. You are warned.

This old school Yuma Chinese restaurant has closed.

Shortly after I moved to Yuma, I decided to try every Chinese restaurant in town. It wasn't that hard — there weren't that many. Several old time Yumans recommended a Cantonese steakhouse named Gene's. It was the oldest Asian eatery in town.

So I stopped by one lunchtime and ordered a lunch special: chicken chow mein. What I was served looked a lot like this:

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As soon as I began eating, I flashed back to my small town childhood and the "country and western" Chinese restaurant that was my parents' favorite in the 1950s and 60s. Every thing seemed exactly the same, from the combination of vegetables down to the predominant flavor of American soy sauce.

And like the memory from my childhood, this chicken and vegetable melange topped a thick pile of crunchy noodles, just like you could get out of the can:

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For me, this flashback was not the resurrection of a pleasant memory, though to be fair, I should mention some friends who moved to Arizona from Boston and are so happy to find these old-school dishes that taste "just like the Cantonese food back in Massachusetts." In any case, Gene's was never my favorite, and I considered it a typical and ordinary ABCDE (Kirk's coinage: American Born Chinese Dining Establishment).

Gene's no longer exists, but the friendly woman who was its last manager has recently opened a new dining establishment, Jeannie Wah's Chinese & American  Bistro:

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She has a tough task in this economy, but she is trying to attract new customers with new dishes while still satisfying the old customers from Gene's with American food, snickerdoodles, and dishes like that old-school chicken chow mein ($8.50). 

New note: I must say that the version of the chicken chow mein at Jeannie Wah's is better than the old version for 3 reasons. 1. The soy sauce is real soy sauce – not a complex flavor, but not bad either. 2. The Chinese greens mixed with the bean sprouts add a slight balancing touch of bitterness that works well in the dish. 3. The noodles are fried on premises and have real flavor and real crunch.

On my first visit to the very nicely decorated new eatery, I got lucky and ordered one of the lunch specials, the Wah's Up Today Noodle Bowl ($7):

IMG_0203

This was really good, much better than any picture can convey. The broth was densely flavorful and rich. The chicken and barbecued pork were adequate as were the plentiful Chinese cabbage pieces and chopped Chinese mushrooms. The real highlight of the dish, even better than the outstanding stock, were the noodles. They had a perfect chew to them, with great mouthfeel and good flavor.

In fact, noodles seem to be one of the strong points of the restaurant. I recently ordered Gene's Cantonese Panfried Noodles ($11) to go:

IMG_0706

Again the noodles were toothsome and flavorful. Notice the plentiful wok hay. The vegetable selection was also good. In addition to the usual suspects, there were sugar pea pods and plentiful crunchy baby corncobs. The only bummer in the entire dish were the shrimps. While their flavor was unexceptional, I never realized that it was possible to cook a shrimp to the point where it was as tough as sirloin steak. As tough as it is to believe this, that's how tough those shrimps were.

I also have picked up their version of Kung Pao chicken ($9.50):

IMG_0703 

The dish was good. I appreciated the plentiful topping of cashews, and the amount of chicken was generous as well. Providing texture and flavor contrast were more baby corns, onions, red bell peppers, and some type of mildly spicy chopped green pepper. As the picture shows, this dish was not super picante, but the red chili flakes and the chopped green chilies did provide a one/two capsicum punch.

Perhaps because of my central European roots, I love various combinations of pork and cabbage. At Jeannie Wah's, I was pleased to see double cooked pork on the menu ($8.50). And of course, I ordered it on one of my first visits to the restaurant:

IMG_0364

The version here is very basic, but certainly adequate. Compared to the dish at Mandarin Palace (my favorite version in town), this one was very simple — just cabbage, barbecued pork, and chili flakes. The pork here also lacked the fatty richness that makes the rendition at Mandarin Palace so outstanding. Nonetheless, I could eat this again happily.

I'm glad that this restaurant opened. This is such a wonderful change from the Chinese buffets that dominated the Asian food scene here in Yuma just three or four years ago. Prices seem fair, and portions are generous. Istill need to explore more of the noodle dishes here, as they seem to be a real strength of the place. Nonetheless, Jeannie Wah's is not going to replace Yummy Yummy as my favorite local Cantonese place, nor does the menu offer the diversity of Mandarin Palace. Still, it fills a very flavorful niche out here in the desert.

Jeannie Wah's Chinese and American Bistro, 1360 4th Ave (actually off 14th St close to 5th Ave), Yuma AZ, 928-783-0080

More from Salvador: Cabañas Four

Who knows what Kirk and Cathy are eating today, but ed (from Yuma) is writing about a place he eats at almost every week.

*** I am saddened to write that Pupuseria Cabanas is no more. One of the few cases of a restaurant doomed by its success. At least as I have heard it, the landlord was getting complaints from the towing/repair shop next door that there was no place to park during the day because the pupuseria had too many customers. Lucia was not allowed to be open weekdays, and then on Nov. 1, the restaurant was empty with no sign about another location etc. I will update if (I hope, when) she has relocated ***  :-(

I know some of you were wondering why Pupusaria Cabañas all the way over in Yuma, Arizona, is worth another post (for previous post, click here) at mmm-yoso. All I can say is that this little family restaurant serves some of the best and most interesting food of any kind in town. And this is food made with love.

While only a few dishes (like pupusas and chicken tamales) are available every day from the small kitchen, the variation of specials hroughout the week provides a lot of choices for us hungry locals. One example is a great new dish sometimes featured on Fridays, tortitas de camerones. First, about the name. Few words have more and more confusing meanings across the range of Spanish speaking countries than torta and its dimunatives, such as tortilla and tortita. Just to take an example. We all know what a tortilla is in Mexico (or in the United States). On the other hand, in Argentina it is like a thick patty or cake made with eggs and potatoes. Kind of like an omelette, but not like an omelette all. The sort of staple dish that an Argentine like Jorge Luis Borjes  missed even when he was visiting Paris. You can see the Salvadoran tortita is closer to the Argentinian dish:

IMG_2333 At Cabañas, this a savory egg patty is brimming with tender, juicy shrimp. The exterior crust contrasts nicely with the soft eggy interior. I much prefer this version to Mexican tortas de cameron, which are egg patties made with salty dried shrimp, a dish redeemed (to my taste) only by the red chili sauce and strips of nopalitos that cover the dish. 

 Another Friday special is often sopa de pescado, a fishy flavored broth with vegetables and sizable fillets of catfish:

IMG_0136 Recently on a Saturday, I revisited the beef rib soup, and found it even better than previously, as the beef is now perfectly tender and complements the savory broth and numerous vegetables well:

IMG_0088 Wednesdays feature bean soups of various kinds. Every one that I have tasted has ranked as one of the best bean soups I have ever eaten, and I have made and eaten many bean soups in my lifetime. The last one I ate may be the best of all:

IMG_0185 The name for this wonderful concoction is sopa de frijoles rojo con costilla de puerco, red bean soup with pork ribs. The broth was as deeply flavored as it is deeply colored. Pork ribs make a muy rico soup stock as well. In addition, this soup was served with two tortillas and a plate of various sides:
IMG_0191 I am not sure what specials happen on Mondays, but Tuesdays seem to feature chicken soup and Sundays are graced by sopa de pata, Salvadoran Menudo accompanied with cow hoof. Trust me, this favorite of mine tastes so much better than it sounds and is full of tendon, tripe, and vegetables:

IMG_2327 As business has picked up, and it has, more items have been added to the regular menu. Most days, beef stew, called here carne asada, and guisado de pollo (chicken stew) are featured. While the chicken is not always cooked to disintegration, as it was the afternoon I took this picture, the guisado always has a rich tomato flavor and is accompanied by decent rice and a tomato and salad garnish:

IMG_2047 Although the agua fresca ensalada (mixed fruit drink with chopped fruits) is the most common homemade beverage here, I have also had excellent tamarindo and the slightly sour arrayan water. The horchata, here spiced with nutmeg, is especially good, thick, and rich:

IMG_2369 One other beverage option exists. The nice folks at the restaurant allow customers to bring beer or wine to enjoy with dinner. While there is no stemware available, there is also no corkage fee, so we winos can enjoy our favorite beverage with outstanding Salvadoran cuisine, all at a bargain price:

IMG_0130 One small note — in one post I mentioned that I could taste banana leaf in the wonderful chicken tamales, but then saw that the tamales were wrapped in tinfoil for steaming. It was only when I later saw the banana leaf inside the tinfoil that I understood why my eyes and my taste buds were conflicted.

Anyway, if you are close to Yuma and hungry, and if it isn't Thursday when the restaurant is closed, let me recommend a trip to Pupuseria Cabañas. Your mouth will be happy.

Pupuseria Cabanas reopened in September 2009 after being closed for a month. They have new hours: Open breakfast to dinner Saturdays and Sundays, and open at 5 PM all weekdays. Don't know if this is just temporary, but that is the schedule for now. I missed this place for a month

Pupuseria Cabañas, 3405 8th St, Yuma AZ, (928) 782-1874