Las Vegas: Around the Strip and Honey Salt

I am without a doubt somewhat of a creature of habit, there are certain "rituals" that I follow……in Vegas after dropping the Missus off, I'll take a walk up and down the strip to see what's new. I'll usually do this in the morning to avoid the crowds. It had been four years since our last trip here and for me, the biggest change was the massive City Center complex…..

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Things had shifted a bit since our last visit….there are now a good number of suite-style offerings; larger rooms, small kitchens, away from the hustle, bustle, cigarette smoke, and noise of the casinos.

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We actually stayed at the Fairfield, not quite on the strip, good sized rooms, and away enough from it all to kind of chill. It was easy to get to the strip though….the shuttle to the Mandalay Bay, the tram to Excalibur, a short walk through Monte Carlo to the tram station from Aria to the Bellagio…..

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Soon enough you're staring at the Paris……

Which was enough time for me to head back and catch the shuttle at New York, New York, back to the Fairfield.

As for lunch; well, I usually go off the strip. I'd heard about a newer place in Summerlin, that did…well, that much too often used description, "farm to table comfort cuisine"……yet it came highly recommended. So I took that 20 minute drive. I'm sure the distance really wasn't that bad, it just seemed that way. The restaurant, named Honey Salt, was tucked away in the corner of  a strip mall…..

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Looking very unassuming from the outside, this place was really happening….so many "women doing lunch". It reminded me of places I've been in say, Scottsdale or Buckhead in Atlanta….. The Hostess was very nice telling me they would have a table for me in a few minutes….but I opted for the mellow bar area……

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Which must have been fate….I asked the bartender if "it's okay if I sit here…." His response? "Eh, you from Hawaii, huh?" We call "Vegas" the "9th Island", so many visit and so many have moved there…you can't help but run into someone from "home". And once he introduced himself as "Bozo"…..I knew he was the real deal. This was going to be a great lunch……regardless of the food.

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Anyway, beyond the pleasantries…..there were many of the typical, "whea' you from" discussions…, eventually things headed to the menu. I had a couple of things in mind, Harissa crusted strip steak salad and Big Eye Tuna Tartar with Crunchy Quinoa came to mind. But MrB told me the two most popular dishes, at least on his watch, which led me to order items I would never had considered.

Starting with the Turkey Meatballs ($9)…….really, turkey meatballs, when was the last time I ordered these? Try never…..

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Caramelized onions and a touch of horseradish added some sweetness and pungency. And though the acid was a bit too much, I gotta say, these were the most moist and tender turkey meatballs I've ever had…literally melting in my mouth. You could easily have mistaken them for veal.

For my main, Bozo told me the Biloxi Buttermilk Fried Chicken Sandwich ($13) was the best seller.

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The chicken was very moist, though I would have appreciated a bit more "crunch" to Honey Salt  07it. The brioche was mildly buttery without being too sweet. The slaw completed without overpowering and added a bit more texture to the sandwich.

Actually, I really enjoyed the salad….the kale and edamame really balanced things out…to the utter joy of the Missus who eats and juices kale by the bushel.

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I actually enjoyed the food here more than Urban Solace……

Of course, during our meal, another "Bruddah" stopped by for take-out….what can you say? In the end this was a nice meal made better by eating at the bar and talking to another ex-pat Kama'aina and also the young lady from South Africa who convinced Bruddah Bozo (in slang that means "Boy"), a third generation "Bozo", that he needed to check out Lotus of Siam soon. I also got a nice tip on grabbing some poke too…….

Honey Salt
1031 S Rampart Blvd
Las Vegas, NV 89145

 

 

Happy Lunar New Year……and some photos from Spicy House

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Both the Missus and I had to work this year, so not much going on. For some reason, we seem to end up in Vegas close to the Lunar New Year……this is the third time. Anyway, the Bellagio always does a nice Chinese New Year set-up in the atrium. This is a from our visit a couple of weeks ago. As you can see, it's the year of the snake.

And…..because this is a food blog, we do need some some food photos, right? MrS treated us to a nice meal at Spicy House. It was great seeing "YY", MrQ, MrS, and especially Akira, whom I haven't seen in a while.

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Spicy House
3860 Convoy Street #105
San Diego, CA 92111

Anyway, whether you say it xin nian kuai le (新年快樂), chúc mừng năm mới, or some other way, we just want to send you our best wishes for a great year!

COMC: Never made the cut edition

Just C(learing)O(ut the)M(emory)C(ard) time again. Here are a bunch of dishes that never quite made the cut for one reason or another.

Along with not making the cut for a post, these were rather "undelicious" if there is such a word.

Anyway, here goes……

This Banh Xeo looked plastic……

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And pretty much tasted it……

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Since folks already know I'm not a fan….I don't feel like rubbing it in.

Even one of our favorite Korean Restaurants is not immune. This Kimchi Pajun was greasy, soggy, and tasted off.

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So is our favorite Thai place…. This Spicy Shrimp Fried Rice was indeed spicy; more like 10 then the 5 I ordered.

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It was like the rice had just been passed quickly through oil….though the shrimp were very nice.

They called these "Italian Ribs".

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They were as tough as they looked……

This Combination Egg Noodle Soup cost eight bucks………and was quite bad.

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Even beyond looking like stuff was just thrown into the soup, the broth was lukewarm and the noodles strangely mushy.

Meet a $7 TJ Hot Dog.

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So much stuff!

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This Bo Luc Lac, was Beef no luck….tough and really salty.

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Well…..that's it…..not much, I know.

I hope everyone had a great week!

I think it's time for a "guilty pleasure" run.

S&P Wings

Curly Jones Cafe- when the traffic is bad, take the exit. (Norwalk)

Here you are, back at mmm-yoso!!! This blog is about food.  Sometimes, like today, it's a diary of why, where and what.  Other days it's blog/diary about who, when and how as well as hundreds of other combinations of those interrogatives.  Kirk is busy, ed (from Yuma) is also busy; Cathy is writing.

One recent weekend, The Mister and I were headed North and hit a terrible patch of traffic somewhere on the older (three lane section) of Interstate 5 just past Disneyland.  Since I would rather be moving than just idling in traffic, we took the closest exit and drove the surface roads, trying to parallel the freeway. At some point we saw this building and signage.

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Of course the car went straight to the parking lot.  When we walked in, the grill and counter seating were to the right and tables and booths to the left.  It was crowded, but a few tables were empty (There weren't two seats together at the counter).

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There must be a fascinating story behind this place, but it wasn't written inside the menu.  The customers all seemed to be locals and our waitress made it a point to welcome us 'strangers' warmly. The interior was a mishmash of decorating styles and photos of that didn't happen.  The menu choices were also a bit of a mishmash.

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The menu had a few Greek, Italian and  Mexican selections, a lot of American/Diner selections and the above Homemade chili section. Since we may not ever find our way back here, we had to order what we may never get a chance to order again…

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Eggs and chili ($6).  Probably the best chili I've ever tasted.  No beans (of course) meaty, spicy (I could detect cinnamon, garlic and cumin and the chili heat level was pleasant).  Homemade. The chili was rich and almost like smooth chocolate…a mole of sorts. Poured over nicely scrambled eggs topped with cheese, served with the garlic bread. (I asked for onions on the side -and that bowl appeared with the plate-).  This was wonderful and the new thing I learned that day – chili goes with eggs.

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Just as wonderful was the chalkboard special of machaca and eggs ($7). Beef, onions, peppers, tomatoes along with more spices (I tasted garlic, oregano and cumin) cooked long and slow into a great stew until the beef falls apart, creating machaca.  The stewed meat and vegetables were cooked in a pan with eggs.  It was served with really good beans and rice as well as tortillas and a homemade salsa.  Wonderful.

A great find, all because of traffic. I hope someday you have gridlock turn out as well. 

Curly Jones Cafe 13220 San Antonio Norwalk, CA 90650 Open until 2 or 3 p.m. daily. (562)864-4399 

The Original Sab E Lee – Rancho Penasquitos

Where does time go? In some ways, it seems like it was just yesterday that Sab E Lee opened in Linda Vista. But that was almost five years ago. I knew after our first meal that the place was a "keeper", a Thai restaurant that wasn't afraid to give you a taste of Issan, the fresh, bright flavors, and burning spice. I still recall the pleasure of having my first Koi Soi in six or so years, on the day Koby finally was able to source the beef he wanted. I recall taking Josh Silberman, former writer for City Beat, along with my good buddy Candice (then writer for City Beat) and getting the Koi Soi at heat level "10"…..watching Josh turn red, then purple, sweat pouring down his face which seemed to be swelling, him telling me, "it hurts….but I just can't stop!" Such good times. After the late Naomi Wise wrote, "At Last True Thai", the place literally blew up…..you had to choose your times well at the tiny five table joint. Still, it couldn't have happened to a group of nicer folks. Of course time does keep on moving on, Koby sold his share of the Linda Vista location to the folks running the place to open Sab E Lee in Santee, then in turn selling his share of that place to move on to destination unknown. Before you knew it, Jay, a fixture at the Linda Vista location had moved back to Thailand. Good things the cooks were still in place. Since then, it seems that the young folks running the front of house changed from time to time and it became basically a place for take-out. Other than seeing and chatting with the cooks, I really lost my connection with the now slightly renamed Original Sab E Lee. So I was caught off guard when "KevinK" mentioned that a location of the Original Sab E Lee was opening in Rancho Penasquitos which I just had to check out. I was told the projected grand opening, but had a packed schedule. I thought that having a group of us get together would be nice; especially since our good friends TFD and MrC live up in San Marcos and always make a point of coming to see us. It would only be fair to meet them halfway.

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Instead of going forward, you may want to read any number of posts from San Diego Food Bloggers, who have eaten there. The menu is basically the same as the location on Linda Vista. This restaurant seat about 50 and was pretty packed by the time we left.

Several of the folks running the front of house recognized me when I came by….what was even more funny was when Maylee came out……you see we were pretty much all regulars at TOSEL, but had rarely eaten together.  She was shocked and pleasantly surprised that we all knew each other.

As for the food….well, I was honored to be given the job of doing most of the ordering. TFD wanted Seafood Tom Yum and I knew that while MrC could handle "Lao spicy", which on the scale of 1-10 is a 12; MrQ has been known to order a heat level of "1", which wasn't going to fly. Still I ordered items at a mixed heat level. Actually, you could read any number of my former posts on the Linda Vista location as well.

We got a couple of orders of Issan Sausage to start:

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A nice standby, not made inhouse, but I love the slightly fermented sour flavor.

The Grilled Duck Larb at heat level 5 was very well done on this day.

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Though well spiced, the flavor of the duck came through quite well. This is one of those dishes that reminds me of Thailand….the textures; melt-in-your mouth is not meant for a dish like larb, it has to have texture.

The Salted Fish Fried Rice, the strong and heady fragrance, belies a wonderfully savory flavor.

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 This was very good.

The Pad See Eew with Shrimp displayed the wok hey that I experienced on my very first visit to Sab E Lee way back when.

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The carb dishes were leading the way it seems…..

The Seafood Tom Yum, at a spice level 5 seemed like the most spiciest dish of the day.

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MrQ did us proud as he handled the Koi Neua at a heat level 7.

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We always count on Candice to provide the liquid refreshment…..which goes great with this dish. Spicy, nutty, with the wonderful raw beef texture…add in the the flavor of the herbs and you've got a nice dish.

Just for memories sake, I ordered the Naked Shrimp, though only at heat level 8. This was the dish that MrC had us order at "Lao spicy" which caused first degree burns around our lips once. We weren't going there this time.

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This raw shrimp dish was a bit drier than what I recalled, lacking in the galangal and other herbs and citrus which elevate the heat. I did enjoy the slices of bittermelon as a nice tannic counter-point to the chilies.

Compared to what I've had at TOSEL on previous visits, the Catfish Larb was quite mild in flavor. Perhaps ordering it at a heat level 5 affected things.

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As things were winding down, we were treated to a nice surprise from the kitchen……

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A sampling of ice cream and sticky rice with mango from the kitchen, gratis…….such a nice gesture.

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SEL PQ 12Service was as good as can be expected for a new restaurant. The front of house was friendly and accommodating. The real winners on this day was the duck larb and the salted fish fried rice….actually, since the food was pretty much what we expected from TOSEL, I'd say that we were the real winners. Though we often think of Rancho Penasquitos as being a universe away from us, it's only about 12 miles. The Missus and I will probably drop by again one day soon.

The Original Sab-E-Lee
13223-2 Black Mountain Rd
San Diego, CA 92129

Las Vegas: Lotus of Siam Four (12) Years Later

Perhaps I should have titled this post, "LOS Twelve Years Later" because that's how long we've been coming to Lotus of Siam. No trip to Vegas would be complete without a visit to the rather worn strip mall on East Sahara Avenue…….according to my friends, "where cabs don't mind dropping you off, but don't like picking you up." Based on our last meal here almost four years ago, our expectations were high.

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We had wondered how time had changed LOS and the answer was easy enough to find. First, Bill Chutima, who owns and runs LOS along with his wife and chef Saipin Chutima is quite the oenophile. There's now a rather large collection of wine on display as you enter. An even bigger difference is that the space next door has been taken over, doubling the size of the restaurant. Even with double the space, hordes of people are still waiting in line at LOS……at least from what we saw on this evening. At least two mini-vans dropped off groups of folks to eat…….all this on a Thursday. Good thing we were on our way out the door when they arrived.

We're always torn when eating at LOS. We want to try out new dishes, but also stick with our favorites from previous visits. Usually, sticking with favorites wins out.

Our main server on this night was the wonderful and warm Mai. Friendly without being overbearing, he enjoyed discussing food, especially Thai food both in the US and Thailand with us. He was a great ambassador for LOS.

The Missus wanted something light and refreshing to start. So we ordered the Soft Shell Crab Salad ($18.95).

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Whomever fried this deserves a raise…..the crab was excellent, light and ethereal, with just the perfect crunch. I'm not a big fan of fruits in salads, but here, the green apple did a nice job of adding an additional layer of tartness, without interfering with the overall balance of the dish. In other words, the soul of the dish was unmistakably Thai. It was a great start to our meal…..

Unfortunately, those heights were never quite reached again. Of course we ordered the Koi Soy ($13.95).  I just had to have it. LOS was the first place I'd ever had this wonderful raw beef "salad" back in 2002 and it is my benchmark for the dish.

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We knew something was off when the dish arrived…..there seemed to be a lot less roasted rice powder, which added great texture and a mild nuttiness to the dish. Some of the pieces of the beef were quite hard and chewy, something I had never experienced with the Koi Neua at LOS. There was a ton of cilantro, but I couldn't taste kaffir lime leaf. You can just compare this with the what we had four years ago below….. This is still good, but not nearly as wonderful as what we've had during previous visits.

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Another signature dish at LOS is a Crispy Duck with Chili Mint Leaves ($20.95).

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This didn't measure up well either. While the duck was wonderfully fried, there seemed to be a paucity of sauce, which also tasted off, the balance of salt and sweet just didn't seem right. It also looked pretty sloppy with sauce dripping off the side of the plate. Again, this was not a bad dish, the frying was carried out to perfection, it just wasn't as good as before.

Again, another photo from the files.

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I mentioned that the restaurant on the other side of LOS had closed down to Mai and joked that the next time we're back they'll have taken over that space as well. His answer was quite interesting. We were told that they now typically do about 400 covers on a good weeknight and sometimes up to 450-500 during the weekend. The restaurant space had been expanded, but the kitchen had not. I began wondering if LOS had not become a victim of its own success?

Didn't have much time to contemplate this as our next two dishes arrived. We had been missing Lanna style Thai. Not so much the Khao Soi, but more of the "dips" which we call "Nam Prik" type dishes. So we ordered first the Nam Prik Hed (Spicy Mushroom Dip – $9.95):

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LOS11This was another dish that was fine, but didn't hit the same heights as what we've had here before. This was much too sour and the mushrooms too chewy. Sad really, since we really enjoyed it last time – see the photo on the right.

The Nam Prik Noom (Green Chili Dip – $9.95) was good, even though we ordered everything at a heat level '7', this one really brought it to the table.

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Loved having this with sticky rice or with some of the light pork rinds. Smokey, with a pernicious burn, I'm thinking my heat tolerance has gone down over the last couple of years.

LOS 4 Years Later 07As I repeated many times, this wasn't a bad meal by any stretch of the imagination. It is indeed better than anything in San Diego. And while newer or first time visitors may think this is fantastic, the bar had been set on our many visits over the years. We know how good the food can, and had been…..and this wasn't it. Remember, Jonathan Gold, back when he used to post on Chowhound, called this the best Thai Restaurant in North America. The Missus was more disappointed than I was. We had just plain wonderful service, so I'm hoping that this was just an "off" night. Now I'll have to try and convince the Missus of that.

Lotus of Siam
953 E. Sahara Ave
Las Vegas, NV 89104
(702)735-3033

KSandwich, Chow King, Valley Foods – Breakfasts with sausage (and no biscuits)

Hey.  This is the food blog, mmm-yoso!!! Kirk is kind of busy, ed (from Yuma) is sort of busy and Cathy is crazy busy, but needs a bit of a diversion from things going on right now. 

Here's a bit of a break from the Week of  Sushi. Instead of raw seafood for lunches and dinners, pieces of efficiently butchered meats stuffed into intestinal casings and served for breakfast is the subject. 

Not just plain old American breakfast sausage in a biscuit though.  San Diego is a Melting Pot of people from all over the world, and the first meal of the day for many is usually comforting as well as convenient. 

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Stepping into K Sandwich, there is a printed menu item taped to the front counter as well as a placard on the counter at the register.  " Trung Cha LX". Chinese sausage, pate, eggs on a (warmed) banh mi roll with pickled vegetable, jalapeño and cilantro ($3.50). The most expensive (and heaviest) sandwich here.

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That's it – on the right.  On the left is a ham, cheese and egg on a (fresh, warm) croissant ($2.75). Both are wonderful breakfast choices.

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Here's a close up of a Trung Cha LX from another visit.  The slices of the Chinese sausage are pretty thick, grilled nicely and a good amount.  The eggs are scrambled hard and the combination of vegetable flavors with a mild pate is magically perfect.

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I've tried many Chinese sausages, sold at every Asian market around and some are very sweet and have no other flavor and others are rich and include grain alcohol as an ingredient.  All are kind of thin and don't take on much of a 'char' after being steamed and sauteed and I've had to slice them into odd shapes to get as much surface area as possible to sauté and make the sausages more flavorful.  This is the brand K Sandwich uses; sold in the refrigerator section next to the bread and croissants and I do like it the best.

K Sandwiches 7604 Linda Vista Road at Mesa College Drive San Diego 92111 (858)278-8961

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Chow King is a chain that began in the Philippines in 1985 and has made its way here, with four locations in San Diego County.  I know it goes against my New Year Resolution (to make an effort to patronize local businesses), but the breakfast here fulfills all of my cravings…(not the All Day Breakfast in the sign, but this one:)

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Rice, a basted egg, bangus (milkfish) and sweet longaniza, a chorizo-like sausage popular in the Philippines ($7).  The bangus is sour with a vinegar base to it and the longaniza here has pineapple juice as its base. Longaniza is made with various spices related to the region: garlic-y, sour or sweet as well as with various meats as the base (chicken, beef and even tuna).  

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I purchase the fresh longaniza that you choose and cut individually at the fish counter area at Lucky Seafood. It's really good.

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As an aside, other 'breakfast-y" items I like at Chow King are the Chicharap (shrimp chips), usually an add on for $1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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and the "Taho", a tofu beverage usually served cold, but when you ask for it hot (and with no added brown sugar syrup) it arrives in a reusable container and is filled with boba as well as a silky tofu.  This is comforting for me. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Chow King 8955 Mira Mesa Boulevard San Diego 92126  (858) 653-4977   website.IMG_1479

Then there is basturma, an air dried sausage similar to pastrami, that we had in a sandwich on the first day of 2013, at the House of Basturma in Pasadena.

We've been on a search for basturma in San Diego and found it sold -and served at breakfast- at Valley Foods in El Cajon. The breakfast plate ($6.99) includes sliced sauteed basturma mixed with fluffy scrambled eggs and is served with a (fresh, baked in the store) sammoon bread and plate of pickled turnips and onions, tomatoes and hot peppers. It is wonderful.

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We've tried to recreate this meal at home, buying each type of basturma (lamb or beef) of the home made sausage and it's still better when prepared for us at Valley Foods (plus we can go shopping after we eat)…the eggs are unusually creamy, light and fluffy.

The basturma is a very solid (because it is air dried) sausage and the beef one has a bit of hot paprika in addition to the garlic, cumin and fenugreek spices.  Both sausages are good and the same price ($7.99/lb).

There are other breakfast sausage options in the county: I'm researching. Hope you're enjoying the weekend!

Valley Foods 1275 East Main Street El Cajon 92021 (619) 749-8355 Website

A Week of Sushi, the Traditionalist: The enigmatic Kaga Sushi

**** Kaga Sushi has closed

I first heard of Kaga Sushi what seems like a lifetime ago….probably around 2002. One day, while purchasing some wagashi at Hogetsu, I noticed the very non-descript sign on one of the buildings. Well….here was the Kaga Sushi that I'd heard so much about. Granted, a good part of that discussion included words like racist, sushi nazi, etc…… Also, I understand that one of the graduates of Kaga's mentorship is a pretty, well how should I say it, rather temperamental fellow himself. After seeing him treat customers badly on my two visits there, I don't think I'd return. In fact, the last time there, I was with a friend from Japan who made it a point after leaving to tell me, "I want to let you know….REAL Japanese are not like that!" 'nuff said.  Another word that has been used in various discussions is exclusivity, which kind of rubs me the wrong way…..I'm just not like that. What really changed my mind about Kaga Sushi was a discussion with Mrs Takeda of Hogetsu-do. She basically told me that the couple who run the place want to only serve traditional sushi and don't speak very much English. They basically feel uncomfortable with people they don't know and can't communicate with…there would be an additional addition to this a bit later on. I did try to get past this door with the neon open sign twice back in 2005……

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And just to make the story short; I looked the part, but couldn't recite the lines. And that was just the way it was going to be. Folks I knew who were Nihon didn't want to go there….folks who thought their Japanese wasn't good enough were afraid. Still, this past winter, I was having a nice Friday drink when "Xiang Jiao" came along. For some reason, I happened to mention Kaga Sushi, and my own "xiang jiao" (which means banana in Mandarin) difficulties. Now being young and all, XJ saw a challenge….she was fascinated. As a plus, her beau (MrT) is from Tokyo and works for one of the major Japanese companies in San Diego. She asked me if I'd be up for Kaga Sushi. Thinking that nothing would come of it I said sure. And during our porcine party, XJ came up to me and blurted out a date….huh? She then reminded me of our discussion….we had a date set for Kaga, which was postponed once, but there I was standing outside that door on a rather cold late December evening. We also had XJ's friend "Trang" and her boyfriend, Masa, who is also from Tokyo for back-up. We walked through that door…..

Now I'd like to say it was all dramatic and such, but the interior is quite humble and warm….much like what you think a neighborhood sushi place would be like in Japan.

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Kaga Sushi 02_+1The menu, written on very old-school style wooden slats were in Japanese. The couple who ran the place seemed to have aged quite a bit in the last 7 years and now looked like they were in their 70's. The woman who simply showed me a reserved sign and nodded "no" in 2005, now seemed like a doting grandmother….plus, she seemed a bit hard of hearing, which would make dealing with English speakers more difficult.

There was a Hispanic Couple in the place when we arrived, also with a Japanese couple….so this was not an "exclusive club" even though it seemed to cater to the Japanese Ex-Pat community. MrT, ordered, in what he later told me was in the "most respectful way" that it would be Omakase for us.

Kaga Sushi 03So after being presented with a wonderfully prepared tako appetizer which we all had to restrain from gulping down, the plate of sashimi arrived.

And let me just say, this was very, very good. Unadorned and traditionally straight forward, but very good…..

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 No fruit or vegetable carvings……no sauce "swooshed" on the plate, no neat little trinkets, no huge lump of yuzu kosho killing the hirame (my one really bad dish at Kaito)…..this was just plain no hiding, no holds, delici-yoso. MrT told me that in terms of just prep and quality, this was much better than Ota, Kaito, Shirahama, or anything else in San Diego. The o-toro did melt in your mouth, the Saba was perfectly cured, milky, but without venturing into "cheesiness", the texture was just perfect. The shoyu ikura was like the kiss of the ocean with ika that had an excellent chew.  The akami was interesting, the cut included a bit of chu-toro, which made for a textural exchange.

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I've never been a fan of the typical awabi (abalone) served in sushi bars, and am still not, though it does make a nice visual impact.

 Next up was a short respite with a very well done broiled saba. Nice oil, balanced salt and sweet…..

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Then came the nigiri.

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Kaga Sushi 09The first thing that struck me was the amount of komezu (rice vinegar) in the sushi-meshi…..it reallycaught me off guard. MrT and Masa thought it was just lovely. For me, the nigiri was not as thrilling as the sashimi. The highlites….well the blue crab was just plain delicious, the kohada was cured well, nice and lightly milky…the mirugai was good. The Ebi, in this case wild Mexican Shrimp was delicious as well.

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Based on what I'd already eaten, I had high hope for tamago. Though I've never really bought into the "you judge an Itamae by how they prepare the humble egg" school of thought, I do like a light, mildly sweet, melt in your mouth tamago just like everyone else.

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Kaga Sushi 12This was not it. It was served ice cold which killed the flavor. The omelet was also too hard and not particularly pleasant to eat.

There's some irony to this whole meal. We'd had all this sashimi and sushi, but the one real talking point for us after the meal was the miso shiro….yep, the miso soup.

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As we took the first sip of this rich, yet balanced simple miso shiro with daikon, the three guys looked up…… I'm not sure what it was, but there was that simple comforting feeling this soup gave the three Japanese "boys" in the group. Like a warm blanket wrapping around you on a cold day…. Nice ratio of miso to dashi, not too salty, the daikon cooked to very tender, but not melted away. This was so nice.

Kaga Sushi 15After our meal, the Itamae came and spoke to MrT….when he found our XJ wasn't Japanese, he was amazed that she wanted to eat sashimi and nigiri and not just rolls. Hopefully, that contributed to a stereotype being torn down. The folks here just seem to want to do their thing. Even though I still don't agree with the way they do it; having grandparents who never spoke English, I understand it. MrT told me that he had heard this building had been sold and was going to be torn down and the owners look like they are close to retirement. I'm hoping that Kaga Sushi will give a little in who they serve. Though I don't think I can get into the place without someone fluent in Japanese even after eating there……

Kaga-Sushi
1216 3rd Ave
Chula Vista, CA 91911

A Week of Sushi, the Modern – Traditional Shop: Sushi Tadokoro revisited, mostly in photos

I really enjoyed my one and only visit to Sushi Tadokoro back in August and was really wondering how they were doing. So I decided to return.

Tadokoro Rev 01

I arrived just at about 530………I always like to eat early at a sushi bar if possible, you're assured of getting the best of what they have and if the Itamae is a really nice guy like Take-san, you'll get a full explanation of what's being served. I was quite amazed that Take remembered me, even what my preferences in taste….he even remembered my visits to Surfside even though I sat in front of Aki….something Akinori didn't even recall. In the end, I ended up returning with the Missus so if I went ahead and wrote everything up, I'd still be going at it tomorrow, so you'll just have to be happy with mostly just photos.

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 And while I'm sure most folks will focus on the toro, the item that really got my attention was the "hobo sashimi" sitting right in front of the kanpachi (amberjack). Hobo is Sea Robin, something that I'd never had before.

Next was another new presentation – Hirame with Himalayan Pink Salt and Finger Lime.

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Even though Take-san makes traditionally focused sushi, he isn't above incorporating new flavors within classic flavor guidelines.

Kohada (gizzard shad):

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Mebachi (Big-eye tuna/ Ahi) Zuke with Shiso.

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Marinating the ahi for a short period really was a nice touch, with the shiso clearing your palate.

Hobo:

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Some of the best ankimo I've ever had.

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I sent the Missus a photo of this from my phone…..She immediately responded by saying "we're going there tomorrow night".

Nikiri painted Ika with Shiso:

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Uni:

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Shoyu Ikura:

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Quite good.

Take-san wrapped things up(no pun intended) with what he called an "Ice Cream Cone".

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Toro, uni and tororo (grated yamaimo) temaki.

I made reservations for the Missus and I for the following evening….Take-san was surprised and couldn't help but laugh.

Of course we returned early and Take-san told me, "you are lucky, we have some good things today".

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Hamachi, Kanpachi, Toro, Mebachi, and what was a pleasant surprise, a favorite of mine since having it at Urasawa, Sayori, Halfbeak, a Hikarimono (shiny fish), a category that includes Aji and Kohada.

The Missus has really gotten more adventurous and it paid off as She loved the Sayori.

There was of course the Ankimo.

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She told me this was the best She's ever had and we placed a second order for Her.

My Sayori Nigiri.

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The Missus got a Saikyo Miso Chilean Sea Bass.

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I got Kohada Nigiri, this time with Yuzu Rind on it.

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Take-san told me that because I was just here the previous evening, he needed to prepare items I've had before slightly different.

Aji(Horse Mackerel).

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Hirame.

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At first I thought the sauce topping it was made from uni. But seeing how much we enjoyed the ankimo, Take-san made a sauce with ankimo, ponzu, yuzu rind, and a couple of other items. Really good!

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Tadokoro Rev 22Hobo sashimi topped with ginger and green onion. We were provided with a bowl of the "ankimo sauce" for dipping, which turned out to go well with the Robinfish. Rich, creamy, hints of citrus, with a mild tangy flavor.

I asked Take how common hobo was. He told me that folks in the city usually don't eat it as sashimi, but in fishing villages it is quite often eaten that way in Japan.

Mirugai for the Missus and I.

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Clean, this refreshed our palate. No wonder "YY's" Dad calls this "cucumber"!

Mebachi (Big Eye Tuna) Zuke Nigiri. This time with yuzu kosho……

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Great combination for the flavor of Big Eye Tuna.

Next up asari clams.

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Finishing off with some uni for "dessert".

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 For me, Tadokoro defines what a nice neighborhood sushi restaurant should be. Good product, clean, understated, atmosphere, an Itamae who remembers his customers and their tastes. In terms of price, the meals here were the cheapest per person of all the places this week. It was funny that I mentioned Take-san to Aki and vice versa…..having both worked together at Surfside, they had very nice things to say about each other….both classy guys.

Sushi Tadokoro
2244 San Diego Ave
San Diego, CA 92110

Open
Mon – Sat 5pm – 10pm

– Go early for best selection and a more relaxed pace and atmosphere

– I'm sure selections change from day to day. I'm hoping you'll have the same luck we did

A Week of Sushi, Going New School: Akinori Sushi

**** Akinori Sushi has closed

From then end of summer last year through winter, I heard a lot of good things about the newly opened  Akinori Sushi in Hillcrest. So near the end of the year, I called and made reservations for an "Omakase" meal to share with my good buddy Candice. Having eaten at Surfside Sushi a couple of times, in front of Akinori twice, I already knew of his friendly, accommodating, and laid back demeanor, so I was sure that this would, at the least, be a nice meal.

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The interior of Akinori is spartan, but neat and comfortable looking. There's nAkinori 27othing stuffy about the place. In this way, it reflects Akinori's personality.

We had seats front and center….and Candice, ever the beer-maven, quickly noticed that Aki-san had brought in some local brews from Monkey Paw. I quickly noticed that the "heritage" of al the fish being served was listed on the chalkboard on the wall.

We happily chatted and munched on our amuse…..

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And our first course of kazunoko and gobo…..

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Of course, all attention went to Aki-san as he prepared our next course…….

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You can't really make it out, but a lobster was being dispatched……

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Not quite as fast as say…..Hiro-san, but quick enough.

It was interesting watching the head of lobster still bobbing around as our plates were being prepared…..

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Which looked wonderful.

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Akinori 09The hirame (halibut) was cut paper thin, something I really enjoy as cutting it in that manner really changes and heightens the texture. Of course the uni, being local, and "gold" grade was outstanding, that was to be expected. But what really surprised me the most was the Ise Ebi (lobster) sashimi. Personally, I'm not a big fan of lobster sashimi, for me it's sort of bland and rubbery…..even when having been prepared by Urasawa. This however was sweet and quite tender…..very nice local lobster.

Next up was the nouvelle course….the new style presentations.

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This was an interesting mixed-bag. So much of the Itamae-customer relationship is based on multiple visits. It's tough trying to figure out a new customer who walks in the door saying "feed me". So some of what I got, like the by-the-books saikyo miso Chilean Sea Bass.

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Was good, but really didn't wow me. I make this every couple of months for the Missus.

And I'm just not a big fan of the burnt pseudo-mayo-cream cheese "roll" thing called the roll with Tokyo Bam Bam aioli.

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On the other hand…….uni and hotategai (scallop) is a classic pairing, so the Hotate with Uni paste was a fantastic take on a classic combination.

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Sweet, sweet, ocean….would probably be a wonderful name for this!

And yet, it wasn't my favorite item on the plate…….which was the "uni tofu".

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Think of this as a sort of whipped uni cake, almost like a decent tamago. Light, spongy, permeated with the ocean-custard flavor of uni. I could have easily have eaten a whole tray….then die with a smile on my face.

Next up was a wonderfully refreshing Kumamoto Oyster with ponzu paired with one of my favorite things; ankimo (steamed monkfish liver "pate").

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 It funny, both Candice and I took bites of our ankimo simultaneously….we both stopped and looked at each other. The texture of the ankimo was perfect, but there was a certain, almost cheesy pungency to it. Whoa…. it was pretty heady stuff!

All during the meal, Aki-san is conversing with us….and being the sharp Itamae, I think he picked up on my preferences with regards to fish along the way as the next item up was a wonderful, lightly sweet, chewy, piece of engawa (halibut dorsal fin muscle), the most treasured part of the fish.

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Right up next was something I would never have thought of……

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Yes, it was a really nice piece of hirame….but sprinkled on top was a really fragrant truffle salt! For some reason, I really took to the fragrance and flavor of this. I'm almost thinking of sneaking that jar of truffle salt I have in the cabinet and ordering hirame sashimi from Wal Mi Do. Now that would be pretty funny, huh?

And while the mebachi (Big Eye tuna) looked good, but was nothing special, I had time to appreciate how Aki-san put together his rice…….not too tight, which allows the rice to disperse easily upon eating.

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 The kohada (gizzard shad) was lightly brushed with a mild nikiri, which really helped since the flavor didn't have quite a pronounced milky flavor.

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As good as the engawa and hirame was, nothing could compare with the Aji.

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We watched as a huge layer of fat was trimmed from the fish….we already knew this was going to be good……. The texture was just plain decadent, something I never thought I'd say about aji. The fish almost melted away in my mouth and yet kept that wonderful lightly milky flavor of Spanish Mackerel. Best aji I've had, maybe forever……

Next item needs no description……

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It was very good….but because of the timing, was only the second best miso shiro I had that week. (more on that later). Still lobster miso shiro….c'mon.

I wasn't a big fan of the anago, which felt kind greasy to me.

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At this point, I was waving the white flag….so Aki-san told us, "just one more item". And it was some item.

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 Uni lovers of the world unite……uni risotto, topped with shoyu ikura, tororo (grated yamaimo), and uni. Nice uni flavor with hints of sesame oil. A excellent rice dish, perhaps not up to Raku's Kamameshi, but what is?

In the end, it was a very good meal. Because Akinori is not familiar with me, by no means did I expect a perfect meal. We'll save that for maybe two meals down the road….which based on the price; this was $70 without booze, is doable. Like I said, the relationship between the customer and Itamae is a sacred one….something folks forget. A while back I had a conversation with one of those "sushi snobs" who really had nothing good to say about any other sushi bars except his favorite…he's loyal, which is nice, but is also something that colors his judgement. There's no place that makes everything perfect, every time……now folks who know me realize that I'm a very boring, pragmatic, person…so I ask the guy a simple question- "how many time did you give these places a try?" His answer? "Just once, they never lived up to how good xxxx is."  "So how many times have you been to xxxx?" "Well, we go sometimes two times a week, xxxx-san knows me there and know what I like!""So you give these places one try and say they don't know you like xxxx-san, then hold it against them….what do you do?" "I'm a barber…." "So what if I came into your shop and had you cut my hair and told you….it's not as good as my regular barber I go to every month? What would you say…." Well…..he just cursed at me and moved a few seats down at the counter of one of those one-and-done sushi bars that-would-never- be-as-good-as-his-favorite.

Give Akinori a try….or two….or three….. oh, and if you plan of having the Omakase, call ahead.

Akinori Sushi
1417 University Ave
San Diego, CA 92103

Oh and if you ever wonder why I don't read that four lettered review site; when I mentioned visiting Akinori to a friend of mine, he pointed me to this. Good grief!