Kitsune Udon

The holidays is a pretty busy time of the year for folks. It's also a fairly stressful time, everyone seems in a rush, and tempers sometimes seem short. Earlier today while driving to the market, I noticed a Saab coming up pretty quickly on me. The car was weaving a bit from side to side, by the time the Saab started tailgating me, I could see that the young lady behind the wheel was chatting away on her cellphone, and not paying much attention to the road. It all almost came to a head when I stopped at a red light, and was almost rear-ended by the Saab which came to a tire-squealing stop. So what was the woman's response to almost hitting me? She proceeded to honk her horn at me, than flashed me the "bad half" of the peace sign…… so much for peace on Earth, and good will to mankind, I think folks just want you to get the heck out of their way right now. Sigh……

Time for something warm and comforting….. like maybe Kitsune Udon???

Udon01
Now using some prepared Tsuyu is very easy and convenient, and heck I even use hondashi (soup base) when I need a small quantity of dashi or dashi flavor. But making your own dashijiru is notUdon02 that hard, nor time consuming. Unlike many recipes, I enjoy a strong kombu flavor in my dashi. So I will usually steep the kombu in water at least four hours, and overnight if possible. Today I steeped the kombu for about six hours, from 10 am, to just after the football game. The rest was done in about twenty minutes. In other words, you could get the process going by placing the kombu in water before going to work, and make the dashi when you return home.

Udon03
Dashijiru

1 8×6 piece of Dashi Kombu wiped with a damp cloth or paper towel
8 Cups of water
1 1/2 cup Kezurikatsu (shaved Katsuobushi)

– In a large container steep the kombu in water for at least 4 hours, or overnight if possible.
– When ready to prepare, place the kombu and water over high heat.
– When small bubbles start to appear remove the kombu (do not boil kombu).
– When the liquid begins to boil lower the heat and add bonito flakes.
– Simmer gently for two minutes, skim any foam that develops, and then remove from heat.
– Let the shaved bonito flakes sink to the bottom of the pot.
– Strain the liquid through cheesecloth or fine sieve. For this use, do not squeeze liquid out of the bonito flakes, this will make the broth cloudy.

Udon Kakejiru – Udon Broth

8 Cups Dashijiru
1/2 Cup Mirin
1/3 Cup Shoyu (Soy Sauce – Use a decent quality soy sauce)
1/4 Cup Sake
Salt to taste
Dash of White Pepper
Other items if desired (dried shrimp, niboshi, sugar etc….)

– Bring Kakejiru to a simmer
– Add soy sauce, mirin, and sake. Simmer to burn off alcohol.
– Taste and adjust flavor with salt, more soy sauce, other flavorings, etc.
– Bring back to a simmer.

Udon04 

Putting It Together:

2 pieces Aburaage
Udon Noodles
Green Onions thinly sliced
Kaiware (Daikon Sprouts)
Other items as desired…….

– Prepare Udon Noodles in boiling water as specified.
– Pour boiling water over the aburaage to remove excess oil, and cut diagonally.
– Drain noodles, and place in the bottom of a bowl, pour kakejiru over noodles.
– Top with green onions, aburaage, kaiware, etc….

Udon05

Aaaahhh………

I hope everyone had a great, low-stress weekend!

The India Palace in Yuma

Kirk, Cathy, and Vicky have shared many of their favorites with the rest of us over the years. This post, however, is ed (from Yuma) sharing one of his.

After having a couple of way-too-salty meals, I have quit eating here. Reports are that the place has declined.

Although I am delighted to have Das Bratwurst Haus over here in the desert, for me personally, the most positive change in the Yuma dining scene in the past six months has been the establishment of a new Indian restaurant in Yuma, India Palace:IMG_2038
I know that one or two of you who are familiar with Yuma will think that this is not a new restaurant at all–since Yuma has had an Indian eatery at this location on 4th Ave now for several years. In fact, you have to look closely to realize that this is a different Indian restaurant — and to my taste buds at least, a much better one.

The chef was born in Nepal, but she is skilled in cooking a wide range of Indian dishes and has spent many years sharpening her culinary skills by cooking for her Indian husband.  Often, in fact, when I eat at the restaurant, I feel like I can dining in somebody's home because the food is made with love and with great attention to detail.

Even though the buffet has shrunk in size, the quality of the dishes is very high, and the variety of flavors never ceases to amaze me.  For example, on one visit, the buffet had both chana masala (chick peas) and rajma masala (kidney beans) as well as mixed vegetables and a dish featuring large chunks of curried zucchini:IMG_1869
On another visit, the star items were a chunky eggplant curry, aloo matar (peas and potatoes), and the fiery onion chutney:IMG_2270
One never knows what one is going to find on the buffet.  I have had a standard daal maharani, a yellow daal, and most recently an herbed daal unlike any other I can recall tasting elsewhere.

Similarly, there is usually a chicken curry available as well.  Most of the time, it is pretty standard (so standard I realize I've never photographed it), but recently the chicken curry was a bright yellow color:IMG_2274
This curry, was primarily spiced with the subtle tastes of turmeric, roasted cumin seeds, and garlic — all of which serve to accent the wonderful flavor of the chicken.

Dishes cooked to order are also prepared well.  One of my favorites is bhel puri chaat, a fried patty of dough, topped with yogurt, spicy sauce, and more:IMG_2090 
This dish featured layers of flavors, with the curry spices offset by creamy and tangy yogurt. The textures of the dish also ranged from soft through chewy to crunchy.

Another time, I tried the masala dosa, a South Indian style pancake rolled around a potato and vegetable filling.  It was served with an incredible coconut chutney and a traditional shambher made with yellow daal:IMG_2039
Here you can see the filling in the pancake:IMG_2041
Every item on the plate was outstanding, and they went together perfectly.  When the chef came out and asked me how I liked it, I was full of complements, because it did taste so wonderful. She then pointed out the black flecks that were across the top of the South Indian soup:IMG_2042
"Curry leaves," she said, "but you have to burn them to get the right taste."  And you know what, she was correct.  The touches of burnt flavor contributed to the overall balance of the shambher.

I have also gotten several different items off the menu for dinner. Usually Tina and I will have them for take out, matching them up with one of our favorite gewürztraminers.  One of my favorite items has been the chili chicken:IMG_1983 This is very simple.  The chicken is prepared in a spicy sauce with chunks of green chilies.  What's not to like?  The chili lamb is equally good and filled with numerous large chunks of slightly gamy lamb:IMG_2095

Bhindi Masala was outstanding on another occasion, the okra being perfectly fresh and slightly crunchy.  The sauce and numerous onion slices just made everything better:IMG_1764
We've also loved the karahi fish palak, catfish chunks swimming in creamy spinach:
IMG_2022 
On that night, we also had an outstanding bengan bhartha, the roasted egg plant adding a smoky depth of flavor to the well seasoned and deeply flavored vegetable dish:IMG_2027
Is everything at the restaurant perfect?  Well, no.  The two times I've had a biryani, the flavors and textures have been largely monochrome, the rice dish crying out for cashews, raisins, and/or various other items.  A couple of times dishes were too salty for my taste (though I am very sensitive to sodium, and I suspect that the dishes were seasoned in a traditional fashion).  I also wish that their take-out containers were not so plastic, though these containers do resist spilling very well, even when they turn upside down on the ride home:IMG_2021
My main concern with the restaurant, however, has to do with its survivability.  We all know that having a skilled and creative chef is only a small part of the battle that every independent restaurant faces.  I worry that too many locals and winter visitors alike associate India Palace with the defunct India House, a restaurant that was uniformly mediocre for the last few years of its existence.  I also worry that some lunch diners will associate the lack of quantity and daily variety with a lack of quality. I just hope that more people appreciate the unique flavors that India Palace brings to the Yuma dining scene.  I hope.

India Palace, 2071 S.4th Ave., Yuma, AZ, (928) 782-0799.

Sab E Lee Santee – More dishes

**** This location of Sab E Lee has closed

I realize that Cathy and I have done posts on Sab E Lee 2, but I thought you’d like to see a couple of other dishes.

First up, Miang Kum (เมี่ยงคำ – $7.95), a simple, but wonderful appetizer:

MoreSEL201
These are basically leaf wraps, and though I’ve read that the classic Miang Kum uses Betel Leaves, all of the variations we’ve had uses spinach leaves. At first the combination of perfectly diced red onion, galangal, slivered lime, peanuts, dried shrimp, and thai bird chilies, topped with roasted coconut and a tangy and sweet, tamarind and palm sugar “sauce” seems a bit strange. But take my word for it, the sum of the parts is a wonderful melange of flavors…. it seems that each one is jockeying for position.

MoreSEL202
When working with such basic ingredients, freshness is the key, as I’ve had several versions (and one terrible version in San Diego) featuring dried out galangal and limes, and low quality shrimp. Everything here was shiny and fresh, and the tamarind dip brought everything together for us.

Bags of Gold ($7.95):

MoreSEL203
MoreSEL204

Think of these as Sab E Lee’s fried won tons if you will. These “bags” are full of minced pork, shrimp, shiitake mushroom, and water chestnuts. While the portion of the “bag” holding the filling is almost crepe-like, the top portions are light and crisp.

Pretty nice to look at too.

MoreSEL205
The Superwild Shrimp ($8.95) is a shrimp salad of sorts:

MoreSEL206
It is dressed with a fish sauce – chili – garlic – palm sugar sauce. Though we prefer the Plaa Shrimp, the shrimp in this dish was cooked to a “just well” doneness.

Of course I had to try the Koi Soi/Koi Nua (Spicy Raw Beef – $7.95), one of my favorites at Sab E Lee 1:

MoreSEL207
First off, this version is not nearly as spicy as SEL1. In fact, after tasting a few of the same dishes, I’d say that the dishes are about %30 less spicy here in Santee. I usually get a’9′ on the heat scale, this was more like a 5. That’s not to say that this wasn’t good, it was. Less spicy, but the inclusion of raw garlic added pungency and bite. This version is also a bit more citrusy and herbaceous. The nutty flavor provided by the roasted sticky rice powder is a bit more muted.

The Larb Duck($7.95) is another similar but different dish.

MoreSEL208
This version was a bit more herbaceous, and truth be told, we enjoyed this one more since the flavor of the duck came through very clearly.

Since the Chef had cut his teeth cooking in Bangkok, a version of the classic Bangkok Red Curry Duck was a necessity. Here it’s called Royal Duck Curry ($10.95):

MoreSEL209
In all honesty, of all the dishes we’ve had here, this was our least favorite. It seemed that all of those reasons we don’t enjoy the overly-Westernized Thai food in San Diego were in display here. The curry was too sweet, too fruity (via pineapple and grapes), and used too much coconut milk for our tastes.

MoreSEL210
The flavor off the duck was overwhelmed and buried in our opinion.

The Missus loved the Three Flavored Fish (Halibut – $14.95):

MoreSEL211
The fish was put panko crusted, and put together just as the Pinecone Fish we encountered on our previous visit. This time it was fried even better if that was possible. The fish was moist, and almost sweet. The sauce is a tamarind-palm sugar based sauce, was perhaps a bit too sweet for me, but the Missus just plain loved this. I can’t say anything bad about that fish. My perfect solution is to order the Pinecone Fish, and request a little dish of the Three Flavor Sauce on the side.

Fish Garlic ($12.95):

MoreSEL212
A classic Thai sweet-spicy-garlic preparation. I loved the sauce, and in fact ate up all the cabbage, and even the carrot garnish. Unfortunately for me, the fish used was catfish, and it was a bit muddy for my palate. The Missus joyfully scarfed the whole filet in minutes…….

On one visit we ordered the Fish on Fire ($16.95):

MoreSEL213
MoreSEL214

Two large Halibut Filets covered with a red curry sauce and served with a flambe of rum. One quick piece of advice for this dish, let the alcohol burn off before sampling, otherwise the rum adds a rather strong astringent flavor to the dish. The halibut was moist and tender. There was a bit too much going on for me in this dish, but again the Missus loved it.

One of my favorite menu items at Sab E Lee 2 is one of the cheapest….. the Garlic Rice ($3):

MoreSEL215
Those regular readers know that I love garlic anyway…. but this was so very good. Much better than any version of Filipino Garlic Rice I’ve ever had, as there was golden sauteed garlic and crisp fried garlic and shallot in this. The herbs added some great flavor…. and the rice being prepared well didn’t hurt things…….

By now, most regular customers of Sab E Lee know Koby….. his wonderful demeanor, gentle, kind, and always helpful just makes the whole experience better. He obviously loves to please his customers. On one occasion, I ordered the Garlic Rice, and mentioned an egg and pork street food dish we had in Bangkok, and how it would be just the perfect item with this. Koby smiled and told us, “I know what it is, we’ll make it for you!” And just like that, we had a classic Thai omelete, which we were later told is called Khai Jeaw:

MoreSEL217
MoreSEL218

Wonderfully savory, fluffy, omelete, with a quick dip in the Nam Pla Prik(fish sauce and chili) which helps cut the richness, followed with a bite of garlic rice…. There are few things better in the world.

And for a second, I was here:

KhaiJeow01
The crazy streets of Silom in Bangkok…….. You know, they say in America, the streets are paved in gold. In Bangkok, the streets are paved in food! Looking at this makeshift food stand, you wouldn’t know that it’s in front of massive financial buildings in Silom, which is Bangkok’s business district.

KhaiJeow02
Sometimes a smell, or just a taste can take me back…….

KhaiJeow03
And Koby was nice enough to provide that for me.

Sab E Lee 2
9159 Mission Gorge Road
Santee, CA 92071

Tortas Y Mas – Chula Vista

**** Tortas y Mas has closed

On this past rainy weekend, the Missus decided She wanted some manju from Hogetsu Bakery, so I made the drive down to Chula Vista. Unfortunately, possibly due to the weather, when I arrived at Hogetsu at 10 am they weren't open yet. I waited about fifteen minutes, until my stomach told me to grab a bite to eat, and return later. Rather than the usual suspects, I decided to drive around a bit and find someplace I hadn't eaten yet…… so even while I was tempted, Tacos El Gordo was not an option. What I did notice was that the former La Torta location on H street had become Tortas Y Mas:

TortasYMas01

TortasYMas02
I didn't quite know what to expect from this tiny, sunny little restaurant.

TortasYMas03
TortasYMas04 I guess part of me expected La Torta "regurgitated" and indeed some of the menu was the "torta gringo style" theme, though there are burritos and even Alambres (think fajitas) on the menu. I quickly removed any thoughts of The Torta Factory from my mind.

The Owner, an energetic and very friendly gentleman named Silvio took my order. I went with one of my favorites, a Torta Milanesa ($7.25):

TortasYMas05
 TortasYMas06This Torta Milanesa came dressed without frijoles, but with a thin slice of ham and some cheddar cheese which gave it a nice zip. The avocado had a really nice flavor as well. The birote (roll) was very run of the mill, and not nearly as good as what I recently had at La Abejita.

I really enjoyed the potatoes, which truthfully could have been more crisp, but was much more aggressively seasoned with salt, pepper, and chili powder than what La Torta puts out. In fact, I finished the steaming potatoes before anything else.

TortasYMas07
TortasYMas08

The best part of the torta for me was the milanesa, beef very thinly sliced, lightly breaded, and fried to a crisp….. the edges were pleasurably crisp like bacon. It was also pretty tender…. I've had my share of gristle filled tough milanesa, so this was very nice.

For some reason, I ate all the potatoes, and could only manage half the sandwich. I asked if I could get my half sandwich wrapped to go, and was told with a smile, "oh yes, no problem". A few minutes later, I was handed a large styrofoam take out container. Surprised I told the gentleman that he didn't need to go through all the trouble, he could have just wrapped up the torta. His response? "I saw how much you enjoyed the potatoes, so I gave you a little more to take with you". How's that for nice……. if anything, just that gesture will have me back when I'm in the area……… Sometimes, simple acts like that can just make your day a bit sunnier, in spite of all the rain and cold.

TortasYMas09

So maybe next time, before you catch the trolley and you need something to tide you over…..

Tortas Y Mas
730 H Street
Chula Vista, CA 91910

Das Bratwurst Haus – German Cuisine in Yuma

Luckily Kirk and Cathy and Vicky have been sharing their meals with you yosoers since ed (from Yuma) has been busy working (and eating). So today it is time for something completely different, something echt deutsch.

March 2011 update: Although this place closed for the summer, it is still going strong. It now has a liquor license and offers an excellent selection of unusual and satisfying German beers — but that means that diners cannot bring their own (weird AZ law).

I should make it clear from the start that I rarely seek out German restaurants, even though my ancestry is 50% German and my maternal grandparents emigrated to the US in 1923 and always spoke with an accent.  Nonetheless, too many German restaurants in the United States are long on fake gemutlichkeit and oompah music, their food being heavy, fatty, and salty.  All the better, I guess, to sell beer.

So it was not my idea for the lunch bunch to try this new German restaurant located in the same space at the corner of Second and Madison that once housed Mustard's:IMG_2182
It was hard to tell what to expect from the menu as it contained most of the usual suspects — sausage plates, schnitzel, rouladen, saurbraten, and sandwiches.  We were all pleased to see that the entrées were available in a lunch portion that came with two sides for only $7.50.

I ordered the pork schnitzel "Weiner Art" (in the style of Vienna) with a gurkensalat (cucumber salad) and a kartoffelsalat (potato salad):IMG_2183
I was impressed — no make that blown away.  The pork cutlet was absolutely perfect, seriously crunchy on the outside and moist and tender on the inside.  The mild pork flavor was perfectly accented by a squeeze of lemon.

The sides were good as well.  The potato salad, truth be told, was unlike any that I had had in my family or in Germany, but it was still very good with a mild vinegary flavor and just a hint of mustard.  The thinly sliced cucumbers were spiced with dill weed and swam in a tangy sour cream sauce.  It was a perfect salad, both creamy and crunchy.

At this point I need to thank my friends who are used to my peculiarities and automatically allow me a chance to photograph their meals and even let me taste them sometimes.  For some reason, they still dine with me.

Here is a lunch sized serving of rouladen:
IMG_2187
The little rolled beef roast was tasty and I was very impressed by the perfectly cooked blaukraut (red cabbage), though the cabbage was not accented by cloves or allspice the way my grandmother did it.

My family prepared sauerbraten peasant style — strongly marinated and then cooked like pot roast.  At Das Bratwurst Haus, the dish is made with a better cut of beef and receives a more sophisticated treatment:
IMG_2189
The marinade flavor, and hence the sourness, was mild, and the meat was perfectly balanced between the beefiness of the flesh and the slight sour tang of the marinade. The accompanying sauerkraut had been perfectly prepared so that it reached a degree of sweetness. I can't do it any better. This lunch made me want to return soon for dinner.

So soon Tina and I sat down in a corner table to sample some German dinners. We were pleased to see the friendly and competent server we'd enjoyed at Mustard's (he joked that he came with the property). Service at dinner was especially good that evening.

Tina ordered jaegerschnitzel, the pork schnitzel topped with mushroom gravy, red cabbage (oddly enough, called blaukraut, blue cabbage, in German), and spaetzle (sorry about the nighttime lighting in the photos):
IMG_2190 
Again the schnitzel and red cabbage were very good.  Although shaped more like mini dumplings than noodles, the spaetzle were tender and flavorful, the lightly flavored mushroom gravy allowing the taste of the pasta to shine through.

That evening I opted for the rouladen:IMG_2192
Notice that the dinner sized portion contained two of these little rolled roasts. Each roast is like a large slice of beef round rolled around bacon, onion, and in the center, a thin slice of dill pickle. A classic German dish prepared well here.

In addition to more of the addictive cucumber salad, I chose semmelknoedel (bread dumplings) as my other side dish, getting two slices from a larger dumpling as my portion:IMG_2193
Although Tina thought they weren't heated through quite fully enough, we both certainly enjoyed their flavor, which is much like a savory turkey dressing.

Speaking of turkeys, we were both stuffed by this time, but we had admired the pastries coming into the restaurant and just had to have some desert (only because I wanted to do a complete post — really, that's the only reason).

So we sampled the apple strudel, which was good, but not breathtaking:
IMG_2198

The Black Forest cake, on the other hand, was breathtaking:IMG_2194
The combination of dense, dark chocolate cake, sweet and fruity whole Bing cherries, and plenty of homemade Schlagsahne (whipped cream) was just about perfect.  The range of sweet flavors and the overall richness were outstanding.  This desert was a perfect ending to a good meal.

As we finished dining, we learned that the older gentleman at the next table (who had been listening to us critiquing the meal) was the owner/chef's husband, and he explained that his wife was from Bamberg in the far north of Bavaria (Franconia), which has its own cuisine, and that this restaurant grew out of a popular catering business she had. This explains why the food seemed so authentic, but not exactly like what I grew up eating.

The local paper recently announced that Das Bratwurst Haus has received its BYOB license, so diners may now bring a bottle of wine or up to 24 ounces of beer per customer for a five dollar set up charge.  Can't beat that either. Prost!

Das Bratwurst Haus, 204 S. Madison Ave, 928-329-4777. Open 11 – 8 daily.

Kinda Local Kine Oxtail Soup

This one along with Portuguese Bean Soup and Chicken Hekka will complete my "trilogy" of old-school local kine dishes. The "local kine" version of Oxtail Soup with the use of ginger, citrus peel, and star anise is undoubtedly Chinese in origin. In fact, when I make this, the Missus will always remind me that the scents involved remind Her of China. It sure does warm you up on a cold day…..

OxtailSoup01
There's a major difference between what I make and the traditional clear broth Oxtail soup. Many years ago, I was doing sales work. Part of the job was helping these Mom and Pop markets and superettes do inventory. It was basically done during nights and weekends. At the end of the process, we'd be fed, and the food was provided in pretty large quantities, as the poke and deli cases would be emptied, and several hot dishes would be provided. At one of those markets, one of the owner's Father, an elderly Chinese Man made some killer Pig's Feet and Oxtail Soup. It was on the dark side and full of flavor. After downing two large bowls of the stuff, I mentioned how much I loved the Oxtail Soup. The old man put his hand to the side of his mouth and stage whispered; "it's nothing, just shoyu(soy sauce), whiskey, and sesame oil." I've made my soup with shoyu ever since then.

OxtailSoup02As for some of the details; I trim about two-thirds of the excess fat off the oxtails. I also do a quick blanching of the oxtails, followed by a rinse to remove blood, and other impurities. In the place of whiskey, I add Shao-sing wine (drinking quality). I garnish with cilantro and scallions, with a dish of grated ginger and shoyu. I also place some chopped greens in the bottom of the bowl before ladling in the soup. I like the mild bitterness and the crunchy texture that the greens add to the dish.

OxtailSoup03
OxtailSoup04

I also rest the soup overnight, this allows the flavors to set. I can also skim off excess fat, controlling the oil in the broth. I place the carrots in the broth right before removing it from heat. The residual heat will cook the carrots, the lack of a boiling motion will allow the carrots to keep it's shape. As for simmering time, it's usually 2-3 hours. I like my oxtails soft, but not disintegrating into a zillion little pieces.

OxtailSoup05 
OxtailSoup06

This might sound like a lot of work, but like everything I make, it is pretty easy. As always, feel free to adjust to taste. Some folks want a clear broth Oxtail Soup, so refrain from adding the shoyu and wine. If you like more ginger, go for it, and so forth.

OxtailSoup07
Kinda Local Kine Oxtail Soup:

3-5 lbs of Oxtails, excess fat trimmed
1/2 lb skinned raw peanutsOxtailSoup08
2 medium onions sliced in wedges
2-3 star anise
1 3" piece of ginger crushed

2 cloves garlic smashed
2 pieces dried citrus peel
1/2 Cup premium soy sauce
1/3 Cup Shao-sing wine
3-4 carrots chopped
Salt to taste
A Dash of White Pepper
Sesame Oil to taste
chopped mustard or similar greens (optional)

Garnishes – scallions, cilantro, a small dish of grated ginger and soy sauce.

– Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add oxtails and par-boil briefly. Empty the pot into a large colander and rinse the blanched oxtail under running water.
– Place oxtails in a pot and cover with cold water to about 4 inches over the oxtails
– Bring the oxtails to a boil, and skim off the scum and foam.
– Add peanuts, onion, ginger, garlic, citrus peel, and star anise.
– Bring the soup back up to a simmer. Add soy sauce, wine, and a dash of white pepper.
– Simmer for 2-3 hours until oxtails are tender, but not falling into pieces.
– Remove from heat, add carrots and let cool.
– Taste and add salt, sesame oil, and more soy sauce if desired.
– When the soup has cooled, place in the refrigerator overnight.OxtailSoup09
– Before heating, skim off fat to your desired taste.
– The soup should be piping hot when served. When heating be sure to check and adjust flavor.
– Place greens, if using on the bottom of the bowl, and ladle soup out.
– Garnish with cilantro and scallions.

OxtailSoup10
Santos has a wonderful recipe for Oxtail Soup which you can find here.  

Sandwich Emporium I & II

I think every neighborhood should have a “go to” sandwich shop. For us it’s Sandwich Emporium, which I posted on way back in May 2005. Over the years, we’ve been in the shop often enough to get to know the owners, twins John and Peter Le, and Peter’s lovely, warm, and friendly wife, Angela.

SWEmporium01
And without a doubt time does fly, I remember chatting with Peter and Angela one day, and suddenly realizing they’ve owned Sandwich Emporium for six years! On one visit, while waiting for the Missus’s sandwich, the “Triple Decker” on sourdough, no mustard, no mayo, no cheese, with sprouts and pickled jalapenos(that’s the nice thing about these neighborhood places, you get to know the folks, and they’ll make every effort to make what you want), I noticed that I hadn’t seen John in a while (thank God Peter wears glasses and the wedding band, or I’d have problems telling them apart). I was told that John had moved up North, and had opened a second branch of Sandwich Emporium…..

So one recent day, I headed up the “15” to Escondido, and the new Sandwich Emporium.

SWEmporium02
The shop, is pretty tiny, but the menu is basically the same, and it was nice to catch-up on things with John.

SWEmporium03

And the sandwiches are the same as well, like the Jersey Reuben, which is turkey, corn beef, with coleslaw (in place of sauerkraut – though I’ll on occasion I’ll ask for sauerkraut).

SWEmporium04
SWEmporium05

On nice and toasty rye, this is a good honest sandwich. Both messy and satisfying. You can get even more meat on your sandwich….. but I think those over-stuffed sandwiches have really taken things a bit far, and I’ve learned a nice lesson from Banh Mi and good Tortas, it’s all about things in proportion. Sure beats what comes out of most chains…..

SWEmporium06 There are usually weekly/monthly specials that are sometimes kinda interesting. One of my favorites is the “Gobbler” which I posted about here, though now they’ve included some gravy, which completes the sandwich for me.

On this day, I decided to try the CaliMelt:

SWEmporium07
The melted provolone and turkey went amazingly well with the avocado. As usual, I left satisfied.

As with most places, there are items that I enjoy more than others, but it’s the same with every place I’ve been to. After this post in December 2006, I received an email from someone who had checked out Sandwich Emporium, and was rather unhappy with my post…… to quote “What’s the big deal, it was priced right, and the service was good, the sandwich was tasty, but what’s the big deal?” To which I responded simply, “Dude, sounds like you enjoyed the sandwich, had good service, and thought the prices were reasonable. What was it that you expected?”

SWEmporium08 Some places make a big splash and grow quickly….. see Sab E Lee. Some like Sandwich Emporium take a bit more time. It doesn’t minimize how impressed I am with two guys buying the sandwich shop of their youth, and making a successful go of it.

Sandwich Emporium
3054 1/2 Clairemont Dr
San Diego, CA 92117

and

**** The Escondido Location of SE has closed

2750 Auto Parkway, Suite 18
Escondido, CA 92029

So tell me, what is your “go to” neighborhood sandwich shop?

You know, sometimes I think that John and Peter are everywhere(I guess they can cover twice the space). I once had the radio on in the morning, and to my surprise Peter and John were on! One night I’m watching the news, and whoa, Peter and John were on……

Scary…….

Johnny’s R Family Restaurant

**** Johnny's R has closed

Yes, it's really Johnny's R not Johnny R's……..  If you've been driving on El Cajon Boulevard, how many times have you passed this place? It's right down the steet from Rudford's which has a strange pull on the Missus. It's pretty good when in the mood for a trip to "Diners-ville". Because of that, the Missus decided that we should try Johnny's R, you know, equal time, and all that stuff……

JohnnysR01
 I gotta say, Johnny's R looks a bit prettier than Rudford's, the folks are very friendly, and the attitude is very laid back.

JohnnysR02
Perhaps a bit too laid back…… we watched as three tables got their food after we placed our order completely finish their meal, pay the check, get into their cars and drive off and still no food. As you can see, the place wasn't very busy. And it's not like we ordered anything too difficult, the Missus got two eggs (over-medium), hash browns(the menu says "home fries", but this ain't that), with rye toast dry($5.50)….they didn't even have to butter the bread.

JohnnysR03
JohnnysR04

The toast was perfect, the eggs done adequately, eggs were perhaps a bit under-done for over-medium, but better for soaking up with the toast. The hash browns were terrible….have you ever tried making O'Brien or Hashbrowns in a non-stick pan? Or perhaps with just a touch of cooking spray? You'll never develop a nice crust and your potatoes would be dry as heck, which is what this was. Also, there didn't seem to be a grain of salt on anything at all.

I ordered the Hot Roast Turkey Sandwich ($8.40):

JohnnysR05
The fries were purely SYSCO, but were fried decently, but lacked salt. The gravy seemed to come from a jar, but was (barely) passable. Who doesn't love white bread soaked in gravy?

The Missus was feeling pretty sorry for Her hashbrowns and Herself, until She saw me pull out my three thin slices of "turkey". As you can tell, calling this "turkey" might be a stretch, and "roast turkey" an even bigger stretch:

JohnnysR06
Grey, bland, flaccid……. not a great combination. I was quickly wondering what species of turkey this came from. The oddest thought entered my cabeza while looking at this….you know how we're taught to cut "with the grain" or "against the grain", what do you do when there is no "grain"? It really looked like that stuff in packs selling for 79 cents in the deli section. I've had my share of processed turkey, but this was over-processed turkey…….. I rarely add salt to anything I order, mainly because I like to taste the food as served. But in this case, I had to add a ton of salt….though I couldn't bring myself to eat that "turkey". As I stared at my mystery meat, the Missus said to me, "you know, there's a Coco's right across the street….. and I know you've never set foot in a Coco's." (And the Chicken Pie Shop next door, Rudford's, and even a Denny's nearby….)

While we were having our meal, we noticed that most of the customers seemed to be regulars. It's too bad our meal didn't turn out. Even with the very slow service, the folks here are so very, very nice.

JohnnysR07 In the end, unless we get some great rec's on something from this place, Johnny's not (ou)R Family Restaurant.

Johnny's R Family Restaurant
2611 El Cajon Blvd
San Diego, CA 92104

Road Trip: Banh Cuon Tay Ho – Garden Grove (Orange County)

BanhCuonTayHo01

**** This location of Banh Cuon Tay Ho has closed

On one of trips to "the OC", we were in need of a snack, and was in the Garden Grove/Westminster area. The Missus and I thought some Banh Cuon would do the trick, especially since the Banh Cuon in San Diego really doesn't match up to what you can get in the Little Saigon area. Because we were close by we stopped at the Garden Grove location of Banh Cuon Tay Ho which looks very clean. And we arrived just at the transitional time when the breakfast folks were headed out and right before the lunch crowd.

BanhCuonTayHo02 
This location looks newer and a bit cleaner than the Westminster location, but the tables and chairs are packed in close together. The snorting and slurping older man on the table behind the Missus kept bumping Her during the entire meal….. I offered to switch seats with Her, but She refused. So what the heck….. maybe it made Her feel like She was back in Vietnam?

BanhCuonTayHo04Another thing we like about BCTH is that they don't fool around with the Nuoc Mam Cham……two pitchers of the stuff was delivered to our table. This pitcher of the spicier version was full when it arrived…….

I just went with the Banh Cuon Dac Biet – the house special ($6.35):

BanhCuonTayHo03
BanhCuonTayHo05

Though not as thin and sticky as the versions we had in Vietnam, I still enjoy the Banh Cuon, the rice sheet has a nice mild pull, and is still thin enough to enjoy. The standard pork and wood ear fungus has decent flavor. Along with the standard accompaniments of Cha Lua and blanched bean sprouts, a version of Banh Tom (deep fried shrimp and sweet potato fritters) and Banh Cong, a sort of mung bean and shrimp fritter is included.

As are all the garnishes:

BanhCuonTayHo06
We also had an extra order of Banh Cong($6), and were warned "it is vegetarian, you know"….. I wonder what kind of vegetable shrimp is? In all fairness, there's only one shrimp attached to the outside of each cake.

BanhCuonTayHo07
Think of this as a savory, dense, mung bean "andagi" if you will. It is quite substantial, and I'm certain that it multiplies in volume once it hits your stomach. 

Since the Missus saw it on the menu, She had to order the Bun Rieu ($6.35):

BanhCuonTayHo08
We both thought that this was a subpar version of Bun Rieu; it lacked the flavor of tomato, and was so superbly red that I was wondering if they use food coloring. The noodles were the appropriate thin version, but were super mushy and overcooked. The broth was terrible, much like water with shrimp paste. Not very good eats……

BanhCuonTayHo09Still, we had come here for the Banh Cuon, and tough I've been told that the shop in Westminster is better, I left satisfied.

Banh Cuon Tay Ho
13876 Brookhurst St
Garden Grove, CA 92843

Of course nothing quite matches the appeal of Banh Cuon made fresh in the morning………

VN200802 042
VN200802 053

Ali Baba Restaurant – El Cajon

A couple of weeks before our visit to Village Grill, the Missus and I took a drive down Main Street in El Cajon, just to take a look around. Not quite sure where to stop, we saw a packed parking lot…..and decided this was where we'd be stopping. It turned out to be the very colorful Ali Baba Restaurant, which Cathy had done a post on earlier.  

AliBaba01
AliBaba03

As Cathy noted, the interior is quite "Arabian Night-ish"…… in a somewhat kitcshy kind of way.

We made two visits over the next couple of weeks, and what follows is a summary of the dishes we tried.

AliBaba02
Overall, of all the items we had at Ali Baba, our second favorite was the Baba Ganouj (small – $5):

AliBaba04
AliBaba05

The Baba Ganouj had a wonderful smokey eggplant flavor, that went so very well with our favorite item at Ali Baba….. which would be the flat bread called "Khubz". On our visits we were served two hot large dinner plate sized bread to start.

The Jajeek (small – $5), the Iraqi version of the refreshing yogurt and cucumber dish that many folks know as Tzatiziki, was good.

AliBaba06 
 AliBaba07The Jajeek was very creamy, but was a bit short on salt. I also thought a bit more lemon juice and garlic would bring up the flavors a bit for me. Of course, I'd eat anything with that bread.

Of all the Entrees we tried, I'd say the Shawarma (Gus – $10.95) was the best.

AliBaba12
AliBaba13

The beef was nice and chewy, but was much drier than the version at Village Grill. It was also a bit short on salt, I ended up adjusting the flavor with a good amount of sumac. The rice was also quite bland. It was quite a bit of food, as the Missus and I shared this, and we still had leftovers…. of course we had two pieces of bread…..

I did enjoy the "Turshi", the variety of pickles and other "mezze". The pickled turnips were good and sour.

On one visit, the Missus ordered the Kousi, braised lamb shank and rice ($13):

AliBaba10
AliBaba11

The dish came with a stew of choice, and the Missus went with Her usual, the Okra Stew they call Bamia. Man this was quite a hefty meal. This version of Okra Stew was fairly mild and didn't have any meat in it. The lamb shank was cooked to perfection, but was a bit underflavored for our tastes. I love the version of the Okra Stew at Village Grill which is full of whole cloves of stewed garlic.

I think the item we enjoyed the least at Ali Baba is the Lamb Tekka ($13):

AliBaba08
AliBaba09

The first thing I'll note is how difficult it is to take photos of food on reflective metallic plates…… The chunks of marinated and grilled lamb was badly in need to of salt. It was also tough and dry, not my favorite combination in the world.

From this post, you might get the idea that we won't be going back to Ali Baba anytime soon, but that would not be accurate. We will probably stick to maybe the Baba Ganouj, a salad, or maybe the Potato Chop or perhaps a sandwich. And of course that bread…….. Which of course would be part of the reason we'll be back. But there's another reason. The service is not the fastest, and the men working there are on the indifferent side, but there's one woman who works there who is wonderful. She has a very warm, kind, and welcoming personality; every child get's a warm smile and a pat on the head. She always seemed pleasantly surprised that we finished all of our bread, and asked if we wanted more on both of our visits. We were even asked if we wanted more bread with our doggie bags. And even though we wanted to say "yes", we really didn't want to impose. And we especially didn't want to seem like gluttons. On our second visit, as we were grabbing our leftovers, the Missus asked if they made their bread fresh since it was always hot when it reached the table. The woman smiled warmly and beckoned us to "come and follow me, I'll show you". And we got a quick tour of the kitchen! We were led to the back of the kitchen where the fresh bread was made.

AliBaba14
We watched as another woman, who smiled at us strangers in her baking area like it happened all the time, cut and rolled out the dough, which was then placed in a oven that looked much like a tandoor.

AliBaba15
A few moments later a hot flatbread was brought out of the oven. Our guide, that wonderful lady, then grabbed the bread and popped it into a white paper sack and handed it to me and said, "ok, now this one is for you to take home" as she walked us to the back door. As we left she said "see you soon", and I think she will….see us soon…… And we'll do a post of course. 

AliBaba16 You can't put a price on that……

In a nutshell, it is probably the most accessible Iraqi Restaurant in the area. The prices are reasonable and the portions are very generous. The lunch crowds are, well, crowds. It is perhaps better to go for an early or late lunch. Limited parking in the small parking lot, but there's ample street parking.

Ali Baba Restaurant
421 East Main Street
El Cajon, CA 92020