The Lamb Noodle Soup Experiment – Yang Rou Mein

I usually don’t do cooking posts during the week, but since we seem to be doing "wall to wall lamb", I thought this would be a bit interesting. I’d grown weary of all the different Lamb Shank preparations, and wanted to try something different. About this time, I’d had some "eh" bowls of Niu Rou Mein. So after preparing some Lamb Shanks with Lemon, Tomatoes, and Olives for the Missus to take to work. I thought I’d try to make some Chinese style noodle soup. But with lamb instead of the classic beef. What the Missus dubbed "Yang Rou Mian". So I searched around, but could not find a recipe. So I simply "winged it". And the result is what you see here:

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It’s not so much a recipe; I’m only going to list ingredients, and how I prepared the soup. I started trying to measure stuff out, but I had to make adjustments along the way. Overall, I think it was a good test to see if I could actually "cook". So I hope you don’t mind this type of post.

Yangroumein02  I bought 3 good sized lamb shanks from Siesel’s. I’ve found them to be pretty large, and have good gaminess. I also purchased 4 pounds of lamb bones. I decided to make both a stock out of the bones, as well as braise the shanks. I’d strain and mix the liquid from the braise with the lamb stock. Mostly because I needed a good amount of broth…since I knew I’d have a good quantity of meat. I’m sure you can make this in one pot, but I enjoy the texture of slow cooking shanks in the oven. In addition, the bones need to be simmered for a good long time. Because of the amount of fat, I made this a 2 day project. I skimmed off the fat on the second day before reheating. Plus, it always tastes better the next day, doesn’t it?

For the broth:

4 lbs Lamb Bones
2 stalks Green Onions, the white parts only, very coarsely chopped
2 1" slices ginger smashed
6 cloves of garlic coarsely chopped
3 Star Anise
2 tsp Five Spice Powder
2 Tb Toasted Whole Sichuan Peppercorns
1 tsp Ground Red Chilies
2 Tb Dark Soy Sauce with Mushroom
2 Tb Light Soy Sauce
Chopped Cilantro stems
Salt and White Pepper to taste.Yangroumein03

– Cover lamb bones with cold water and add green onions, ginger, garlic, star anise, five spice, sichuan peppercorns, ground chilies, and cilantro stems.
– Bring mixture to a light simmer(do not bring to a hard boil), reduce heat to keep at a low boil.
– Simmer for 3-4 hours.
– Once the stock is ready, strain the broth.
– Pour back into the pot, add dark and light soy sauce, salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary.

Meanwhile…….you need…..

2-3 Large Lamb Shanks, or 5-6 Small
Salt
Pepper
Cumin
Ground Sichuan PeppercornsYangroumein07
Ground Red Chilies
1-2 Tb Canola Oil
1/2 Cup Shaoxing wine
3 Stalks Green Onions Chopped
3 Cloves of Garlic Chopped
1 Tb Ground Red Chili
3 Star Anise
2 tsp Five Spice Powder
Water
Dark Soy Sauce with Mushroom
Light Soy Sauce
Salt and White Pepper

Heat your oven to 300 degrees Fahrenheit
– Season Lamb Shanks with Salt, Pepper, Sichuan Peppercorns, chili, and cumin (my salute to the Uygher)
– Heat a Dutch Oven or similar pan (I used an old wok) over high heat, and sear the lamb shanks.
– Once lamb shanks are nicely browned, remove the shanks a place on a large plate.Yangroumein04
Pour off excess oil, leaving just about 1-2Tb of oil in the pan.
– Add Green Onions, Garlic, and Ground Chili. Stir and cook for about 1-2 minutes.
– Add Shaoxing wine and deglaze the pan, making sure to remove all the nice brown bits from the bottom and sides.
– Add water. There should be enough liquid to cover all but about an inch to an inch and a half of the lamb shanks. Bring liquid to a boil, add soy sauces, five spice, and star anise.
– Place lamb shanks back into pot, and cover well. Place in the oven for about 2 hours.
– Once Lamb shanks reach desired tenderness, remove the shanks from the stewing liquid.
– Strain liquid and add to stock. This will be your broth. Taste and adjust seasoning. Add in any otherYangroumein05  flavorings you desire, chili, ground sichuan peppercorn, sugar, more cumin etc….
– Remove meat from bones (this should be really easy if the meat is soft and tender). Place bones back into broth.
Place meat into a container along with 1-2 cups of broth. This will keep meat moist, and prevent drying out. Leaving the meat separate makes it much easier to portion out, and the meat will not break up as much.
– Once the broth is cool, place in the refrigerator overnight.

Before reheating broth for serving, skim off as much fat as desired. I heat the meat in the microwave, but you can do whatever you want. I used some store bought Shanghai style noodles that I think is pretty decent. In the North, where the Missus is from, they like their noodles a bit al dente, with a doughy chew.

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Garnish with whatever you wish. I used thinly sliced onion, green onion, cilantro leaves, and because this was for me, baby bok choy(the Missus hates Bok Choy in soup).  The soup was rich and hearty, and the Missus ended up taking my bowl away and started eating it all up. You can even make a hot pot with Napa Cabbage, Tofu, and bean thread. This little experiment turned out pretty good. I hope you enjoyed it.

Sab-E-Lee Restaurant Part 1

**** This location of Sab-E-Lee has closed

It has been a pretty busy couple of weeks for me. It's during these times that I'm so thankful for having great FOYs (Friends of Yoso) like Cathy and Ed, who allow me a break. I'm pretty sure that mmm-yoso, would not exist without the help of Ed, Cathy, Mizducky, Vicky, and Omar. They, along with all of you, keep things humming along. It's also pretty easy to get in a rut, I mean really, after a while, mediocrity blurs things……I have a ton of photos of "eh" places, and even more places I need to visit a second time before doing a post. So it's great to be able to post on something the Missus and I really enjoyed. So we'll just have to push those other PIPs (posts in progress) to the back of the line here. I hope you don't mind. Now, it's off to the post:

I'm always amazed at how quickly, and how many, recommendations I get. Several days after I posted on a new restaurant in the former Linda Vista Food to Go, Mo Ngoc So 1, and Thai by Tara location I get an email. From "SomTommy" (you gotta love the name), who, in spite of the rather difficult to understand email, made it very clear that the new restaurant makes really good Thai food. Which meant that the Missus and I had to check it out.

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The small sign in the front was in Thai, so I wasn't quite sure what the name of the place was. The interior looked exactly like Thai by Tara, with the same postage stamp sized dining area. But when the menu arrived we were surprised! Over 100 items, and stuff I've never seen on menus here in San Diego. The Gentleman running this tiny place was very nice and friendly. I noticed a few items on the menu I was interested in, so I inquired as to where he was from. "North Thailand", which made me even more excited. Next question, "what kind of food, Issan or Lanna?" This raised a big smile, as he replied "I'm Issan, and my cooks are also Issan!" Which got an even bigger smile from me. So I automatically went for a few items from the menu…unfortunately, they were out of the Issan Sour sausage and Koi Soi(raw beef salad). But we were told that the Pad See Ew and Som Tom(Papaya Salad) was really good.

So we started with the Pad See Ew with Beef($5.75):

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Sabelee03 When the plate arrived, I knew that whomever cooked this really knew what they were doing. The balance of soy to sweet was perfect for my taste. The dish was neither oily, nor where the noodles mushy. And what shocked me most of all, was the "wok hey"! The noodles had the wonderful smoky umami of a well seasoned wok…..

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The beef was decent, and though the Missus liked the GaiLan, I thought it a bit undercooked. Still, the best Pad See Ew I've had in San Diego…..

When we ordered the Papaya Salad($5.50), the Gentleman asked, "Thai or Lao?" Then, he looked at me, and asked, "maybe Issan style?" Was that even a question?

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A nice and simple Papaya Salad, just the way we like it. There was a pungency that approached, but did not reach the very strong and potent Lao style salad. There were bits of salted crab for flavoring…tiny pieces, I just crunched away. This was more of a savory dish…good with sticky rice. There were some good long beans and a few tomatoes. It was quite spicy…..funny, it didn't burn my lips, but it fried my tongue. It was not sweet enough for the Missus, as it lacked the palm sugar flavor the Missus enjoys in the Her Thai Papaya Salad…so I kept telling Her; "think Lao……"

Which meant more was in order. The Thai Sausage (Naem) Fried Rice($6.50):

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The Missus loved this. A great combination of flavors, and the rice came out cooked exactly how She enjoys.

The Spicy Shrimp and Basil Noodles($5.95). The menu says "Mint", but there was Thai Basil in this dish:

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Sabelee08 Of all the dishes we had sampled thus far, this was our least favorite. On the good side, there was a good amount of Thai Basil, much more than the 2-3 leaves usually found in these types of dishes. The noodles were again cooked with expertise. We found the overall flavor to be on the bland side…but maybe it was because everything else had so much flavor. The shrimp were a bit overcooked as well.

Funny thing; to this point, I still hadn't bothered to get the name of the restaurant. So I asked, and the nice Gentleman told me laughing, "I forgot to have them put the English name on the sign". He then grabbed a business card and wrote:

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So there you have it. No, it's not Lotus of Siam or Renu Nakorn, but the food is well prepared, and not your average American-ized Thai Food. The menu is large, so there is much to try.

Sab-E-Lee Restaurant
2405 Ulric St
San Diego, CA 92111

Which begs the question….where's the Koi Soi? Well there's more to come…….

Silly Blogging Day-Cathy eats unusual food at all these places too.

mmm-yoso!!! is the blog.  Kirk doesn’t want to blog today, neither does ed (from Yuma) that leaves me to let you have insight into my little life…

Hi again. It has come to my attention that some people think because I live in the East County of San Diego yet contributes to this blog, that I am not overly adventurous with my eating, seeing as how a majority of my posts center on Mediterranean foods and taco shops…but that is so untrue. I just try to not ‘overlap’ posts with Kirk. Truth be told, he and I have extremely the same palates and before I started blogging, I accused him of stalking following me and The Mister to restaurants, since we had both been there for a meal and then Kirk posted about them a few days later.. like for 3 months in a row…

Anyhow, these are photos just to show you I eat at all these exciting places also, and like it.

The Mister and I chose Crab Hut for our anniversary dinner. Dsc01298

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Garlic bread.Dsc01299_2
Shrimp with half lemon butter, half Old Bay…medium heat level.

Half a pound of corn.  A meal.Dsc01300_2
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Last week, we went back. Dsc01791We could not decide, wanted something fried…so just got the Appetizer Boat ($14) cajun fries, fried okra, onion rings, fish fillets, fried shrimp, potato poppers(potatoes, cheddar and jalapeno), Crab Hut rolls (crab meat, shrimp, pork, taro and carrot in rice paper, fried) served with a variety of sauces…The fry cook here deserves to be paid more. Always, *always* the fried foods here are so perfectly prepared!Dsc01792 Here are the accompanying sauces for the boat of fried wonderment! Dsc01793_2Here is the same old same old 1/2 lb of shrimp…medium heat, 1/2 Old Bay, 1/2 garlic butter… Dsc01795_2and here are leftovers… Dsc01794_2As a treat, here is an Old Bay seasoned whole Blue Crab. This brought back such memories. Many, many years ago, when living in Virginia, The Mister and I would get a dozen of these and a six pack of beer and sit on our deck, cracking crabs, getting really messy-and drunk. The taste of fresh blue crab is …perfect…

Ah, other places I eat… Dsc01248Most of you recognize this place setting- Little Sheep. Kirk took The Mister and I here for our first visit, and we have been back on our own…many times. Dsc01249 Dsc01250_2 Dsc01251_2 Dsc01252 Dsc01253 This is an average meal- two broths, 3 meats, 2 types of dumpling (one is always lamb), tofu in some form,  some sort of green and then something to eat without cooking (in this case the lamb skewers)

We really like it here.

Dsc01740Then there was the day- the infamous day not that long ago-when Kirk, ed (from Yuma) and I met for lunch. For first time. Ever.  The magic of blogging. What did we order? I got the tapioca noodle based shrimp and ‘crab’ soup… Dsc01741_2Both Kirk and ed got the Bo Kho. Kirk says this place makes a mean Bo Kho.

Oh, where did the three of us choose to eat? Tofuhouseasiacafe_006 Not saying. 

Then there is my latest passion, Yum Asia, (with clear noodles, please) from Asia Cafe. Great in the hot weather.

Tofuhouseasiacafe_007 I have been here once a week for the last five weeks, each time with a different man.  Never mind.  I have had cravings for the Nem Khao ever since ed (from Yuma) brought me here the first time.  Asiacafe_003

The pork larb is particularly juicy flavored and made with just enough heat so you can taste the meat as well as enjoy the spices.

Asiacafe_002The fried spring rolls are mostly meat and served with mint and parsley as well as lettuce, which is also used for the Nem Khao.

So, anyhow, that’s it for now.  I didn’t have enough to do a single post about any of these places, and might not have said much except I love the way the food tastes, so you get to just vicariously enjoy.  Links to Kirk’s bloggings about all but one of the above restaurants:Crab Hut  Little Sheep  Asia Cafe .  The first five people who can correctly guess which restaurant was chosen as a meeting place for the three of us for our first  lunch together will get an e-gift certificate from Peets.

Curried chicken salad

Yep, the blog mmm-yoso!!! is where you are.  Today, it's Cathy's turn.

Hi.  A few weeks ago, I was having lunch with Kirk and Carol and we were brainstorming about different things to blog about.  I do cook and eat at home..and I have had this habit, for years, of  only buying sale items and making a meal out of them(along with some staples I always have in the house).  I was going to do a series of  "$5 Fridays" but figured that would obligate me to always be doing something, plus not all of you who read this blog have access to the same stores and sales we do out here in Sunny Southern California…so, I decided to show you some of my easy meals that I am making coincidentally with sale items and post something once a week. Hopefully on Friday.

Oh, and I have been on this 'curry craving' kick lately.  Maybe it is just turmeric, since a curry is just a blend of spices, one of them always being turmeric…

This week, Henry's has chicken breasts (with skin and bone) for 99¢ a pound.  So I bought a four pack and boiled two of them, cooled, skinned and tore the meat off the bone, chopped it up. Curried_chicken_salad_001_3

Curried_chicken_salad_002 Then I mixed : mayonnaise, orange marmalade (assume these are basics in your house), curry powder (bought in the bulk bin at Henry's-one scoop cost 18¢), some fresh lime juice(they are on sale 5/$1 as opposed to 39¢ each for lemons) and some salt and white pepper(again, assume those are basics).Curried_chicken_salad

It looks this way because the marmalade has all the skins of the fruit in it, but you can taste and add or subtract the amount of ingredients.

Then I fold the above sauce with the chicken and some green onion tops (25¢ for one bunch this week) until just blended.

Sometimes I chill it, to get the flavors to meld…but depending on the heat of the curry, it doesn't matter…sometimes we just sit down and eat it at room temperature.  With rice.  Or greens.  Or some naan from Trader Joe's. Curried_chicken_salad_004

Cathy's Curried Chicken Salad

3 C cooked diced chicken (or really any meat or fish that is cooked)(leftovers?)

2 green onions, chopped

Put with each other in bowl and set aside.

Whisk together:

1/2 C Mayo , 1/2 C orange marmalade, 1 Tbs lemon or lime juice, 1 tsp curry powder, salt and white pepper.

Stir in with chicken and green onions until just blended.Curried_chicken_salad_003

Quick, simple and, at least this week, less than $5 for at least two servings.

Que Huong Revisited…many times Part 3 – Maybe it is all about the Jackfruit Salad?

**** Que Huong has closed

After our previous visits to Que Huong, you'd have thought that we'd had our fill. But the Missus thought the menu had some potential, and so in future visits we tried a few different items. So here they are:

Banh Xeo($5.95):

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Quehuongrev21 This is something I remembered from our first visits to Que Huong way back in 2005. It was still delivered with a pile of fresh herbs and lettuce. It was still crisp, and not oily in the least. I do think that they've cut down on the amount of shrimp and other "fillings", but it's still my favorite in version in San Diego.

The Catfish Clay Pot($8.95):

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It looks large in the photo, but it was more of a "personal sized" version. The strong fish sauce-Quehuongrev23 maggi-lemongrass flavor was great, but the fish was a bit too "muddy" for my tastes. The Missus enjoyed it, and there was one added "bonus" that I liked. The bottom of the pot was lines with pork belly..soaked in the sauce and caramelized…delici-yoso!!! I ordered this during another visit with Ed from Yuma, and the most wonderful Tina (thanks for putting up with us!). I knew this was right up Ed's alley, so maybe we'll find out how he enjoyed it. You'll need some rice for this one.

The Jackfruit Salad ($12.95):

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Most of the versions I've had of this dish(Goi Mit) tends to be on the milder siQuehuongrev32de. And this dish would be as well, except that it has a nice amount of Rau Ram, peanuts, and a Nuoc Mam Cham that runs on the sweeter side. If you've never had Jackfruit before, and have some preconceived notions about taste and texture….the jackfruit is very mild, and has an almost "meaty" texture. There a nice amount of pork and chopped shrimp in the dish, and the portion size is pretty large. It comes with sesame-rice crackers. The only real problem, and I've noticed this with some of the dishes here….there always seems to be that "one thing". There are many hard peppercorns in the dish…real hard…chip your teeth hard, so tread carefully.

Quehuongrev24 On one visit, we decided to try the Goat Hot Pot (small – $22.98). I had thought it was a bit on the expensive side, but it was enough for 3 people. The broth is laden with dried Jujubes, and has a very strong lemongrass flavor.

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The best item is the taro, which has been fried before being added to the hot pot, giving it a nice texture and flavor.

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Quehuongrev27 I really wouldn't order this if you're a meat lover, the chopped goat was an after-thought, tough and flavorless.

A plate of Mi (egg noodles) is provided, along with some vegetables, in this case a plate of Bok Choy. The soup is "never-ending", in that you can request refills of the soup (but not the noodles or veggies…that'll cost you). After a refill, we needed to add some water to the broth, it was getting pretty salty. For the final refill, they provided a bowl from which we could just refill as desired. You can see how much "stuff" is in the broth, just by looking at the bottom of the bowl:

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The jury's still out on this one.Quehuongrev29

It's an interesting crowd at Que Huong, during the earlier hours, it's Vietnamese families(for the hot pot, and other family style dishes), and an occasional Hispanic visitor (they seem to enjoy the fried rice and pan fried noodles). As the evening gets later, the group gets younger, and people start ordering the wings, and other smaller dishes.

One of the Young Men, by the name of Jay is fabulous. He'll come by and answer any questions you may have, and tell you about some of the other menu offerings.

Que Huong Restaurant
4134 University Ave
San Diego, CA 92105

Siem Reap: Palm Sugar, and Everybody has a Durian story, right?

As I noted at the end of my last post, we had just finished a repast of Khmer Durianstory01Noodles (Num Banh Chok), and the Missus had wandered off. It seems that She had been unable to ward off the temptation of fresh Durian. And having been suitably tempted, She purchased a nice fresh Durian. I’m sure that all travelers to Southeast Asia has at least one Durian story, and here’s ours.

The Missus has this Durian, the smell of ripe compost wafting in the air so thick I could have cut it with a chainsaw. She brings it into the car…now you must remember that we have a whole, hot, humid day ahead of us.

Durianstory02

And though Narin thought it humorous that the Missus would be so excited over Durian, I was kind of worried about having the smell of stewing sewage permeating the car for the entire day. Which led to a conversation:

Me: Did you really have to buy that Durian?
The Missus: Looks good, huh? And I didn’t see any "no Durian" signs around the hotel.
Me (lowering my voice): You realize that this car isn’t Narin’s, right? He’s probably renting it. And he’ll return the car smelling like Durian.
The Missus: Oh….. 

Suddenly, the Missus brightened up…it had all become clear, a solution presented itself. The Missus reached over, opened my backpack, placed the Durian into my backpack, and zipped it up tightly. I should’ve kept my mouth shut. To this day, Sammy will be walking past my backpack, he’ll suddenly stop, sniff, and look up at me with an expression that says: "Daddy, did you poop in your backpack?"

Along the way to our first destination Kbal Spean, we passed numerous stands; each with woks, or pans simmering over fire. Narin, seeing our interest, stopped. These stands were making Palm sugar:

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Narin showed us the various Palm Sugar products.

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Cambodia200801_472 And even went over the fruit and differences between the male and female palm. Unfortunately, I flunked Palm anatomy and physiology, so I don’t know which is which.

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There was also a Cashew Tree, which fascinated me. I’d never seen one up close before.

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The nice lady even had the Missus taste a cashew fruit…..I could tell by the sour look on Her face, that I wanted no part of it.

As our way of thanking the lady for being so gracious, as we found most all Cambodians to be, we ended up buying two tubes of palm sugar.

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This palm sugar is darker than the palm sugar I buy at the market here in San Diego.

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The flavor is a much more condensed "complex" sweetness. I used some in a Beef Salad I made, and because I used the usual amount of the stuff, it overpowered everything else in the dish!

As we headed up the 25 or so kilometers to Kbal Spean, it started raining pretty hard. Narin smiled, turned to us and said: "this is quite unusual, it is early for the rains to start, you must be good luck."

Here’s another Durian story, some friends of mine have a bunch of siblings…so many that I think I’ve lost count. When they were young, their Mom, always so resourceful, used to lock up the Durian in a cabinet with chains and a padlock!

So what’s your Durian story?

Niu Rou Mania, A Niu Rou Mian comparison: Shanghai City, 168 Restaurant, and Dumpling Inn

*** Shanghai City is no more. It is now Spicy House.

We had been pretty happy with the Niu Rou Mein at Shanghai City. The Beef Noodle Soup always had a nice rich and deep flavor, good oil content, some spice, and the noodles had a pleasant mouth feel for us. In fact, on a good day, I'd say that it would have measured up pretty well with anything we've had elsewhere. But recently, before the weather turned warm and humid, we decided to drop by Shanghai City. And of course, I had the Niu Rou Mein. I think you can often measure how long you've been doing something by comparing prices. The price of the NRM in my first post, in October of 2005, the weekend breakfast special price for NRM was a major bargain at $4.25. During my next post in December of 2006, the NRM was $4.95, and still a bargain. In March of 2007, it had gone up another dollar and was $5.95. And now it's $6.45, it really makes me feel like I've been doing this for a very long time.

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I'm not sure what the regular (non-weekend breakfast special) price is for the NRM. We got our NRM in pretty quick fashion.

02092008_022

And were a bit disappointed. The broth was much lighter, and the flavor was on the watery side. The meat was very tender, but bland, lacking any beefy punch. The noodles were the biggest let-down, they were over-cooked and mushy, not the doughy chewiness we usually enjoyed.

Which led me to…….think about retrying other restaurants. So here's 2 more to make a NRM tri-fecta.

*** 168 Restaurant has closed.

168 Restaurant:

The place looked much cleaner than I remembered, and the tables lacked the signature "San Gabriel stickiness", but Beef Noodle Soup was still on the menu. I went with the Spicy Beef Noodle Soup($6.50):

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The bowl was smaller than what I recall, but it looked and tasted the same. Second rate noodles, the broth was quite weak, lacking richness. I've always enjoyed the pickled greens, and on this occasion the beef was very tender, and had a decent 5 spice flavor, but the broth had a unpleasant bitter-burnt aftertaste.

Dumpling Inn:

This time I went for the gusto Beef Noodle Soup with home made noodles ($7.95 + $1 = $8.95!), the most expensive NRM I've ever had.

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I enjoyed that the large bowl arrived steaming hot. The broth was much darker than what I've had07312008_002  on previous visits, and this time it had a nice beefy punch, but lacked any richness (oil), and was very salty. It did look so good that 2 people who walked in while I was eating this asked the Server what I was having, and ended up ordering this. The beef was tender, but lacked flavor, as if all the beefiness was sucked out of it. There was a ton of the medium-wide "home made" noodles provided, but it really did nothing for me. No chewiness, or the nice slightly doughy texture, in the end I would have just been fine with the regular noodles. In addition, there was a giant messy clump of noodles all stuck together in the bottom of the bowl. Which led me to wonder how these were being stored.

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Just as a reminder, home-made doesn't mean fresh……

So I'm left in a quandary……I'm hoping that Shanghai City's NRM will be back in form next time. But now, I'll be back to trying other versions in San Diego again. Looks like it's back to square one.

Mutant Green Chilies

Today it’s ed (from Yuma) posting at mmm-yoso.  Just a note, if you are researching genetic variations in pepper cultivars and you Googled some search terms and ended up here, you probably want to search again – unless you like eating chile verde.

When I moved to Yuma after having lived for most of the previous 15 years in California, I was sure I knew what green chile was – chunks of pork stewed in a mildly spicy green colored sauce consisting of tomatillos, green chilies, onions, garlic, and fresh cilantro.

My sense of green chile was challenged, however, soon after I arrived in Yuma and began eating at some of the "old school" long-time Yuma Mexican restaurants. I realized then that not all green chile was the same. Although it took me a while to get used to these mutant forms, nowadays I appreciate their unique flavors and their place in the traditional cuisine of this border community.

One of the best and most unusual examples of this old style of green chile is the version found at Yuma’s oldest Mexican restaurant, one that has roots back into the 1930s, Chretin’s. Recently relocating from a rather shabby building in the middle of an older residential section of town (see the first picture), Chretin’s now occupies a large and fancy location at the intersection of Arizona Avenue and 16th St (second picture):

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For $7.60 (or less as a lunch special), you can get Chretin’s green chili burrito enchilada style (also known as saddle style or as a wet burrito):

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This style of burrito is fairly simple but also very traditional in Yuma. One fills a flour tortilla with the green chile and then ladles more green chile on top of the burrito along with cheese. Of course, some of you must be saying, "Green? Green? There’s nothing green about that chile." And you’re right. Do not try adjusting the color balance on your screen, because Chretin’s green chile is indeed brown in color. As near as I can tell, this style arose back in the day when fresh or frozen green chilies were not available year around. Therefore, the main source of chile flavor (rather minimal in actual fact) had to be dried green chile powder. One of my friends says that Chretin’s green chile is just odd flavored brown gravy with meat, since the sauce is clearly thickened with flour and the main source of picante heat is black pepper:

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A careful look at this close-up shows that the meat in the green chile is a very tender, coarsely ground beef, reflecting the Sonoran background of most of Yuma’s citizens before World War II. The gravy sauce also contains flecks of tomato and bits of onion. While this is very far away from anything I would’ve considered green chile when I moved to Yuma, I have grown to like this unusual dish at Chretin’s.

Another old-school Mexican restaurant in town is El Charro, a restaurant that has been managed by one branch of the Gutierrez family since  1949. For many native Yumans and numerous winter visitors, this restaurant on 8th St is the essence of Mexican food in Yuma. Personally, I have always found their large portions to be generally bland and low in flavor. One example of this blandness is their salsa, which tastes like a can of chopped tomatoes mixed with a can of diced mild green chilies:

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Nevertheless, I have always been intrigued by their "El Green Saddle," as they call their version of a green chili burrito enchilada style. In fact, this dish is so much a part of the tradition here that it is only dish mentioned in the history of the restaurant painted on the wall:Img_1616_2
When served,"El Green Saddle" looks like this:Img_1610_2

Again, you would be right to say "this isn’t green!" And yeh, the predominant color of this "green" chile is red. Even when one cuts into the burrito and looks at it up close, there is as much tomato red here as there is chile green:

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So what is the secret to this dish? Having eaten it several times, I am convinced that El Charro’s green chile is simply coarsely ground beef and onions cooked with left over table salsa. That would explain both how it tastes and how it looks. It would also explain why El Charro features this dish. You have to do something, I guess, with all that leftover salsa.

Another branch of the Gutierrez family (92 year old Bessie and her descendents) also began in the restaurant business back in the 1940s, although their oldest restaurant currently in operation is La Casa Gutierrez, which has been located in an old house on Orange Avenue since 1960:

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Although their fast food outlets, Mr. G’s and Chile Pepper, serve credible versions of their green chili recipe, its best incarnation is in a green chile dinner (Tuesday lunch special pictured) at La Casa Gutierrez:

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Although this green chile is the most watery of any in town, I still love the fresh green chile flavor that arises from all these large pieces of green chile. Nonetheless, the use of ground beef and presence of chunks of tomato, instead of tomatillo, marks this as another Yuma mutant green chile:
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While I have had the green chile burrito enchilada style at the restaurant (and it’s good), the green chile lunch special on Tuesdays is one of the best meal deals in Yuma. For $5.25 (including tax), you get chips (store-bought, unfortunately), salsa, a good-sized portion of green chile, your choice of a beverage (the lemonade is killer), rice, beans, and a soft and flavorful flour tortilla almost the size of a bedsheet:
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The newest of the restaurants serving atypical green chile in Yuma is Eduardo’s, which dates back to 1964, meaning that it is less than 45 years old. Currently located in a strip mall on Avenue B between 16th and 17th, this small restaurant has its own unique take on green chile. The Chile Verde burrito, enchilada style, currently costs $5.50 and looks like this:

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From the outside, this burrito looks a lot like the others, with almost as much red tomato color as green chile color. When you cut into the tortilla, you find beef, tomato, fresh green chile, cheeses, and sauce all mixed together:

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It is only when you focus on the meat itself, that you can see one of the main differences between this green chile and the others in this post. Eduardo’s does not use ground beef. Instead, numerous sizable chunks of stewing beef have been slowly cooked to utter tenderness:

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These chunks of beef give this dish a wonderful deep beefiness. The other difference, one that you cannot see, is in the spiciness of the finished product. All of the other mutant green chilies are very mild in flavor and have virtually no picante heat. Eduardo’s, on the other hand, sets your mouth afire with chili spice. While not a standard California-style green chile, I have to admit that this is one of the tastiest green chilies I have ever eaten.

I hope you folks have enjoyed reading about these unusual and weird green chilies in Yuma because I have enjoyed eating them.

Saturday Stuffs

Just a few quick one’s for today:

(Another) Santana’s Opens:

Right on Morena Boulevard in the old KFC location, and just .75 miles from another Santana’s.(I checked).

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08022008_002_2 The banner says that both locations are open. Shades of Starbucks! I’m thinking they may close the other location.

Santana’s Mexican Food
1975 Morena Blvd
San Diego, CA 92110

Another new restaurant in the cursed corner:

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First it was Linda Vista Food to Go, than Mi Ngoc So 1, and last Thai by Tara. I’m not sure what it is now…but the sign says "Grand Opening Aug 2/08".  I’ll check it out soon.

2405 Ulric St
San Diego, CA 92111

The Power of 3:

I’ve noticed something over the last couple years. I tend to buy books in "three’s". While it’s not as fascinating as say, the Number 23 enigma. The purchases have weird pattern to them.

I bought my "sushi trilogy" at the same time:

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I tend to read several books at once, and have finished both The Zen of Fish and The Sushi Economy which are similar but different.

Then there my "Chinese Food" trilogy, which I also bought at the same time:

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Of course, this one could get off on a technicality, since I preordered Serve the People, and it didn’t arrive until several weeks ago. I just finished The Fortune Cookie Chronicles, and really enjoyed Jennifer 8 Lee’s writing style. I’m still working on Shark’s Fin and Sichuan Pepper, which may end up being one of my favorites.

Last year, I ordered my "Japanese Cookbook Trilogy":

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The reason for purchasing Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art, has an interesting story behind it. I don’t know how, or why, but my Mom owned a copy of that book. After she passed away, it disappeared…or maybe got accidentally discarded, I’m not sure. So when I saw that the 25 anniversary edition had been published, I bought it.

This one might be stretching it, but it’s kinda, sorta my "food science trilogy":

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I know Sauces by James Peterson might be pushing it, but I spent 3 hours reading through it after it arrived.

So do you think this is a bit strange? I’m not trying to get all Jim Carrey on you, but I just noticed this weird habit.

BaLe Linda Vista Reopens

*** Bale has closed and is now Farm Sandwiches and Market.

So finally, Ba Le on Linda Vista resurfaces. The sign on the "old location" said the end of May, but when I took that photo it was already June! And when I shopped a Vien Dong Market a few days later, that sign was gone. This past weekend, I noticed that Ba Le had indeed taken the place of the old Dai Tan Supermarket, which had been there for quite a while.

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In spite of the looks, there is quite a bit of parking further down the lot, where you're not packed in, and people aren't backing into you(I saw a little Vietnamese Lady driving a BIG SUV, hit another parked,  BIG SUV, and she just kept on going…). As I walked in, I wondered what the heck Ba Le was doing with a market….but I guess that's the plan.Balelvrev02

Seeing that the sandwich counter is not yet completed, I inquired about Banh Mi, and was told, that even though the counter, and seating area wasn't finished yet they were serving Banh Mi. And the current special is; buy 2 get 1 free. So I placed my order, and seeing the chaotic situation; a line of grocery customers, I took a walk around the market.

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Dai Tan never struck me as being the cleanest looking market, but the place has been cleaned up a bit, and the lighting is much better. The produce looked fresh, and there was quite a steady flow of customers.

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Balelvrev03 Which meant I'd probably be waiting a while, so I took a seat. Surprisingly, a few minutes later one of the Gentlemen comes walking out of the back of the market with 3 Banh Mi. Which I paid for, than proceeded to hightail it out of the parking lot, before a little lady in a BIG SUV had a chance to hit my car.

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So, what did I get? Well let's start with the Dac Biet (special – $3.50):

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Balelvrev08 In my visits after my post on the old BaLe location, I found the sandwiches to be inconsistent. There was a tendency to over-margarine, than over toast the baguette, making the bread crouton-hard…the stuff that rips up the roof of your mouth. This would obviously distract from the decent crust-to-bread ratio. Today, the baguette was okay, slightly crusty, but nothing special. The meats were piled to each side of the baguette…the ham on one side, the Cha Lua on the other…kind of strange. All of the meats, and Balelvrev09the pate were very mild in flavor, if not down-right bland. The jalapenos were quite mild on this day. All in all, nothing special….

The Xiu Mai(meatball sandwich – $3.00):

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Balelvrev11 The crumbled Xiu Mai(meatball) had a very mild flavor…sort of like what could be described as a "pork meatloaf". Not bad, even though I enjoy a more assertive flavor. Because of the juicy meatballs, this Banh Mi got soggy pretty quickly, but at least it wasn't dry.

As for the Banh Mi Bi, the Missus didn't feel like eating it, so I took it for lunch, well, breakfast the next day. I won't go into that, "Bi-cause" I wouldn't want to wish that decomposed sandwich on anyone. It just is not a fair assessment of the Banh Mi.

With regards to the Banh Mi, not much has changed at BaLe. If you enjoyed the sandwiches at the former location, you'll enjoy them here. But at least now you can catch up on some shopping while waiting for your sandwiches. All sandwiches run from $3 to $3.50.

BaLe Supermarket and Sandwiches(In the former Dai Tan Market location)
6959 Linda Vista Rd.
San Diego, CA