mmm-yoso – Page 258

Brussels: Grand Place, t’ Kelderke, and Le Fin de Siècle

June 5, 2014 mmm-yoso Beer, Belgian Cuisine and Restaurants, Belgium, Brussels, Gastropub, Pubs and Pub Grub, Travel

I'm not sure exactly when the Missus and I decided on Belgium as a destination, but somewhere after the New Year, the Missus's love of Belgian brews ignited, and airfare to Brussels seemed reasonable…Prague had always been in the picture, but Belgium, well, that decision was a rather late one.

Which is how we found ourselves in a terrible line at passport control. Honestly, it wasn't even a line at all, just a mass of people in a hallway, more of a cattle pen perhaps, for what seemed a distinctively unorganized entry to the "Capital of the European Union". We basically stood an hour and half in a huge blob of people before making it the actual line for passport control and customs. The folks here are very friendly and nice though. You also seem to have to walk through the entire airport to get to baggage claim (luckily we only had carry-on). It was a slam dunk from there. We found that public transportation in Brussels, like most big cities in Europe is an absolute joy. Down to the lower level and the Express Train to Brussels Centraal Station. The folks at the apartment we were staying at, above an art gallery just a few blocks from the station, perfectly situated for us, gave us impeccable instructions. Within a few minutes we had the keys, gotten some good tips on the area, had climbed up the rather narrow stairway, showered, and were on our way.

We were but three blocks from what became our landmark……

The famous Manneken Pis. You know how they say, "you can't miss it"? Well, in this case, you could miss it if not for the crowds that surround this tiny statue of a little boy peeing…..

The only other constant in the area is the cloying smell of waffles and chocolate, so thick that you can almost see it.

In spite of all the tourists, we quickly noticed that the pace here was quite laid back, unlike Rome, things were low stress, no hard sell, seemingly no scams…..

Grand Place, the former central market square, UNESCO Heritage site, the heart of Brussels, is just a few blocks from Manneken Pis. Also known as Grote Markt in bilingual Belgium, it is indeed a grand sight, even as the clouds rolled in and drops of rain started pouring down.

With the rain falling, it seemed like a good time to get something to eat. Both the Missus and I were starving after our long flight(s). We had been for warned about the "restaurant row" on Rue de Bouchers, by guides, online, and even the folks at the apartment. However, we didn't want to be slogging around, a bit groggy from lack of sleep (I can't sleep on flights), in a city we weren't familiar with. Enter t'Kelderke, located in Grand Place. Yes, it's a tourist restaurant of sorts, downstairs in the cellar right on Grand Place.

I really came to enjoy this type of cellar restaurant. I think there's something rather comforting and cozy, in spite of the darkness…..

Our Server was a rather nice fellow, not overly friendly, but amicable……

Hey, we were in Belgium, right? So it was time for a beer. Not much on the list here, so we started with a Grimbergen Tripel. Kind of light for a tripel, mild citrus tones, not very boozy, and fairly thin tongue feel.

Much like the restaurant itself, it was agreeable, nothing that would challenge you in any way.

The Missus started with the Carbonnade Flamande, the classic Belgian Beef and Beer stew.

And stoemp of course. The stew was ok, the flavor beefy but a bit too sweet, the beef also had a decent flavor, but several pieces were much too tough and fairly dry. The stoemp tasted of too much parsley.

I ordered a Horse Steak medium….which was cooked to a perfect medium.

While the frites were something that could have out of a bag with SYSCO on it; definitely not up to what I would consider Belgian standards, the horse was pretty good. Perhaps not the most gamey, nor sweet horse I've had, more like a powerful grass fed beef sirloin. The Missus absolutely loved it. The Server recommended a mushroom sauce which was served on the side. It had a nice flavor, perhaps a bit heavy on the butter, but not bad.

One thing we quickly noticed, which was a recurring theme was that things weren't overly salted….a nice change of pace from what we're used too.

Overall, a decent meal in a very high tourist area.

T'Kelderke
Grand' Place 15
Brussels, Belgium

By the time we worked our way back up to daylight, the rain had long passed and things had dried up a bit. Before we headed back to the apartment for a nap we headed out the other end of Grand Place and to the Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert. Built in 1847, this place claims to be the oldest operating shopping mall in Europe.

I really loved the neo-classical design which bestowed a sense of elegance to the glass covered arcade. You really expect great works of art to be lining the walls instead of windows to various chocolate shops and cafes.

We then headed through Rue de Bouchers, wall to wall restaurants waiting for tourists and past the Church of St Nicholas.

Running right into the huge building known as the Bourse – The Stock Exchange Building. Here's a photo of the front form across busy Boulevard Anspach.

Funny thing, we'd just arrived and in the matter of minutes had seen most of lower town sights!

We headed back to the apartment and took a well earned nap. In spite of the rather heavy lunch (and beer), we awoke hungry. We headed on out, walking past all the places we passed before. You notice much more the second, and third time around. Near MP there's this mural of Tintin, the world famous cartoon created by Brussels born cartoonist Hergé.

The Missus and I really enjoyed the murals and street art of Belgium.

Crossing Anspach and past what we call "Brussel's Chinatown" (more in a later post), we got the area known as St Catherine. We really enjoyed the vibe of this area, which seemed even more laid back. The area is dotted with cafes, restaurants, food shops, and such.

Just south of the area on a rather non-descript street is a place I really wanted to check out.

Not much of a sign to speak of, communal seating, the menu is written on a chalkboard (in French – but I heard the Servers explain the dishes in English to some folks), nice selection of beer (served at the perfect temp), this is the type of no-nonsense places I love….though if you'd move this to San Diego it would be full of hipsters and called a Gastropub. And it would make a killing. The prices are right, the service can be on the brusque side…..until they understood that we really appreciated the food and drink. You don't hesitate here….you spot an opening and you go for it.

Decisiveness wins the day here. If they are busy feel free to walk up to the bar and politely order your beer; which in my case was a Trappistes Rochefort 10, a wonderful brown quadrupel with a slight raisin and a wonderful, smooth, tongue coating texture. Man, now this was a beer to sit and savor. As you can tell, I was really starting to get into this.

The Missus ordered what might be Her favorite Gueze of the trip; a Mort Subite. This seemed to have the right combination of a mild fruitiness along with all the sour attributes of a Gueze without being too dry. Something interesting we found was that folks were somewhat surprised that the Missus, a woman, enjoyed sours.

Of course we ate……this time I ordered the Carbonnade Flamande(made with Chimay) which we both really enjoyed. The beef was perfectly cooked, very tender, but not falling apart. The flavor was a nice beefy, with a balanced sweet and savory thing going for it.

The Missus just had to order the Sausage and Stoemp.

Without a doubt the best Stoemp I've ever had. The Missus really enjoyed this, especially the sauce, which I believe was also made with beer, mustard, and probably beef stock.

This was one of our favorite meals of the trip….

The price at 34 Euros ($45) we thought was very reasonable.

Le Fin de Siècle
Rue des Chartreux 9
Brussels, Belgium

After dinner we walked around a bit, enjoying the public art.

We stopped by a Carrefour Express and picked up a couple more bottles……just for a nightcap, right?

The Belle-vue Gueuze was very basic, not too sour, middle of the road, with nothing that really stood out.

The Brugge Tripel was quite effervescent for a tripel. Kind of boozy, with some mild fruit. Not the nice texture that I like in a tripel, but not bad.

Yes, we were having a heck of a time….can't you tell?

I realize this was a long one. If you hung around 'til the end, I thank you for reading!

Midweek Meanderings: Don Diego’s becoming Balboa Taphouse, how does our garden grow, and other “hot” stuff

June 4, 2014 mmm-yoso Cooking

It's great to be home, though I'm still kinda "fuzzy"…..when I was younger there was no such thing as jet lag…but now…..

Anyway, here's a couple of things for hump day.

Don Diego's becoming Balboa Taphouse:

The day after returning from our trip, I headed off to Sprout's to restock some veggies and other stuff. The Missus has got me on this "diet" thing….more on that later. Anyway, I noticed the sign on what used to be Don Diego's was gone, so I walked up and took a look. Seems like this pseudo, gringo taco shop is going to be something called Balboa Taphouse. It probably a better fit for the folks who have the lease on this spot; they also own Jimbo's Liquor next door.

4421 Genesee Ave
San Diego, CA 92117

So how does our garden grow?:

The Missus deemed last year's garden a success, so we went kind of full bore this year, planting earlier, and in greater quantity and variety. Da' Boyz favorite uncle took good care of them and the plants when we were gone….

It seems that I might not have a black thumb after all. Of course, it's all about peppers for me. This year, in addition to Ghost Peppers , shishitos, and serranos, I've got a ton of Padrons, some red habanero, and…..a couple of Moruga Scorpion plants as well.

In addition to the usual cucumber, squash, zucchini, kale, and chard, the Missus wanted okra and corn….corn!

Never would I ever have thought we'd be growing corn in the back yard…….

Our current favorite seasoning – The Spice Lab Ghost Pepper Infused Salt:

Speaking of Ghost Peppers…….my good buddy Candice gave me this as a gift a couple of weeks ago.

So how do we like it? If you check out the bottle, you'll notice that it's almost gone…… It's a wonderful seasoning for grilled meats. It's mildly spicy, no big deal really, and goes really well with any seasoning containing cumin, chili, garlic, or smokey flavors……

The beef flap here is seasoned with the ghost pepper salt, sea salt, fresh ground black pepper, cumin, Mexican Oregano, granulated garlic, ground coriander, and ground chipotle. The grilled wings; ghost pepper salt, Himalyan pink salt, fresh ground black pepper, paprika, cumin, Mexican oregano, granulated garlic, ground ancho chili, and ground chipotle.

I gotta restock on this stuff soon……

Thanks Candice!

I hope you're having a great week!

Where in the world are we – the home stretch

May 30, 2014 mmm-yoso Belgium, Travel

We leave for home in the morning. This has been a heck of a trip…..

Perhaps not as challenging as Tunisia or amazing as Peru or Angkor, but this trip has been pure joy for us. We've learned so much.

And also seen quite a bit.

We visited several cities and even took a short trip into an area not in most guides.

In a search of the "Holy Grail" of beer.

We've been having blast and doing a ton of walking.

And even though it's been overcast and even rainy most of the time, it hasn't dampened our spirits.

For some reason we didn't visit many museums…..just a few.

Yesterday we returned where everything started.

We ate rather well on this leg of the trip. We didn't go for anything particularly fancy, but had some great meals.

Well, our glasses are empty….

And we're missing Da' Boyz, so it's time to come home.

Thanks for reading!

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Where in the world are we (Part 3)

May 26, 2014 mmm-yoso Czech Republic, Travel

We've moved on from this wonderful, colorful country. But here's a round-up. Most folks only visit the one popular location, with good reason. We, on the other hand, decided to get out and visit some of the other larger cities.

We found the folks much more friendly, helpful, quick to smile. We visited three different cities and there was a ton of history. We learned about Plague Towers.

Visited cathedrals…

We travelled first by train….

Then later by bus….which turned out to be better.

We took a day trip to one of the smaller, but popular towns for tourists. Though the town was pretty quiet on a Sunday….

There was local music being played and sung for visitors….

We moved on to the second largest city in the country….which we loved. Perhaps the place isn't in many guides, it's well worth a visit.

Rick Steve's, the well regarded travel guide institution, doesn't even have a mention of this city, but should.

Much of the weather we encountered to this point had been wet, cold, and drizzly. On our last day here, the sun came out. We enjoyed sitting on the square and watching scenes of daily life. The Square, like in other countries is the center of social life. There was a band playing, dogs (lots of really well behaved dogs walk leash free), and folks generally enjoying life.

We also started noticing the little twists…..each story or landmark has a little "story", some little twist that adds color….

Eventually, we returned to where we started here….the weather was now bright and sunny, the crowds adding color to everything. Not that places like the "Lennon Wall" needed any more color.

The views and sites were amazing.

And of course there's the food. Some of which have interesting "names" which I'll go into later on.

We're now on our last third of our trip and still enjoying ourselves….everyday is something new. I'll try to get one more post in before we get back home.

Thanks for reading!

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Where in the world are we (part 2)

May 19, 2014 mmm-yoso Blog

Our next stop is a place the Missus has been wanting to visit for several years. It is probably one of the most visited cities in Europe over the last couple of years.

And rightfully so. There's so much here. The city is bustling and vibrant, but at the time of our visit not frightfully so. The city seems to have everything…..

A castle upon a hill.

A river spanned by beautiful bridges.

A beautful, bustling town square.

With an Astronomical Clock that dates back to the 15th century.

All of this is wonderful, but it's the stunning architecture that does it for me.

Each building is like a snowflake, unique and different.

Our sights seem to be focused upwards all the time.

One of the reasons the architecture has remained intact is that this city has never been leveled in any of the wars that ravaged Europe over the last century.

That is not to say that this country did not see it's own dark period, which is noted in many monuments and memorials around the city.

The fare here is hearty; and starch heavy…..

Well, the traditional fare is…….

The Missus wants us to focus more on hearty food this trip and it looks like we're doing a pretty good job. Of course there's all that beer as well.

We've fallen in love with this city. Yes, there's a certain edginess to it, but it seems just enough for us. Yes, there are crowds, but it's not crazy like Rome. As with everywhere, there's a certain jaded attitude in the heavily touristed areas, but just a few feet away, the folks are warm and the beer flows…..and so is our trip it seems.

Thank for reading!

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Where in the world are we?

May 14, 2014 mmm-yoso Belgium, Travel

Yes, it's that time again. We needed some time off to recharge. So where are we?

Well, this city claims to have one of the grandest places….

And for the shoppers, also claims to have the first enclosed mall in the world.

The weather has been pretty cold and drizzly, but the sites are still wonderful.

This afternoon the sun peeked out giving some sunshine, which really made everything that much more photogenic.

It also brought the locals out. The folks here are very laid back and really enjoy taking their time nursing their favorite brew(s).

Since this is a food blog, here's a couple of things we've had so far.

Horse steak and frites

Veal sweetbreads in mustard sauce.

A specialty is beef stewed in beer. I won't give you the name of the dish, that'll make this way too easy.

It's 3am as I type this out. A bit of jetlag this time around.

We're headed to our next stop this morning. Hopefully, I'll have the time (and the wifi) to do another post. Thanks for reading, and, as always, thanks to Cathy for holding down the fort!

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Chef Zhu

May 6, 2014 mmm-yoso Chinese Restaurants

**** Chef Zhu is now a location of Chin's

*** A short revisit post can be found here.

So one night when the Missus was busy at work, I asked Candice if she'd like to check out Chef Zhu. She had only been there once since they opened, so she was curious as well.

Yes, the English sign still says "Double Happiness"(the former ABCDE – American Born Chinese Dining Establishment name of the place), but it's easy enough to tell you've arrived at the right place.

There's an interesting mix of customers, forks adorn the tables and are removed when Chinese customers (or at least Chinese by marriage customers) are seated. Remember when Shanghai City had the ABCDE $5.99 lunch buffet? We were lucky enough to get a few tips from Candice's Dad on ordering from the menu.

Candice loves Ma Lan Tou and having had the wonderful vegetable in Suzhou and Hangzhou, I thought it made a nice start to the meal.

This was a decent version of the dish….you really can't get fresh ma lan tou here. I've seen it frozen at T&L and figure it's pretty much the same product everyone uses, but at least they didn't kill whatever flavor was left. In case you're wondering Ma Lan Tou is commonly known as Indian Aster and the vegetable is a staple of "Su Cai" – Jiangsu Cuisine, one of the Eight Great Traditional Cuisines of China.

We also got the Chao Nian Gao.

You have to be careful when ordering this; the standard version is drenched in soy sauce, which kind of detracts from the nice flavor of this dish. Shanghai City had a habit of overcooking the rice cakes and adding too much sesame oil. This was spot on. Loved the chew, the slight bitter from the vegetables……

Candice's Dad recommended the Yin Doo Xin, a very Shanghai style soup made from pork and chicken stock, and flavored with preserved pork (think ham), lovely bean curd knots, and crunchy winter bamboo shoots.

I believe it's called something like "Shanghai Soup Pot" on the menu. This had good flavor and that "aaah" factor that I find comforting, simple, yet hints of smokiness and saltiness from the pork added to the flavor. I took the leftovers home and it tasted even better the next day! I've been back to order this twice for take-out, eating a day after.

The Pork Pump looked pretty impressive……. A quick note, if you've got a bunch of customers ordering "orange chicken" around you and want to make a splash order this……you'll get folks asking you what this is, but in terms of this dish…..

But I've had much better, this was on the tough side and that sauce is too thick, almost like glue which was a rather unpleasant texture for me. It also tasted amazingly under flavored for a dish like this.

I thought the Xiao Long Bao at Shanghai City was passable, so why not, right?

This reminded me of the rather terrible XLB from The Dragon's Den, too thick wrappers, not enough soup. Chef Zhu was a partner in that business with the owner of Dumpling Inn for a while….I think the XLB rubbed off and not in a good way.

Most of the dinner was decent, that soup really hit the spot, and the company, as always was superb! So I decided to return and try some other things on the menu.

Starting with the "Shanghai Duck" ($6.95).

I'm a big fan of Su Cai cold dishes…..I'm not particularly fond of this rendition. That glaze is much too thick….the texture of caramel is great on ice cream, it ain't so great here. It was also slightly unpleasantly bitter. Lots of duck with not much flavor. I took the leftovers home and the Missus had one bite…..

I always thought that Shanghai City made a decent Niu Rou Mian….I mean, it wasn't Dai Ho, but it did hit the spot, so you know I had to try it here.

As a whole, I didn't enjoy this. I preferred the thicker, more doughy Shanghai Noodle that Shanghai City used to use. The noodles were also overcooked. The meat was on the tough side, thought the flavor was okay. At Shanghai City, the broth tended to be on the anise-heavy side, but there was just enough beefiness in it to balance the scales. Here it wasn't so, too much anise, not enough beed flavor, not rich enough either.

And yet, not to be denied, I returned on a very hot day, going Paleo all the way…..hey TFD, aren't you proud?

I started with a favorite of mine, the Jellied Pork – I believe it's something like "Salted Pork" ($6.95) on the menu.

And while I prefer a bit more aspic, on the dish usually called "jellied pork", I loved the fat to meat ratio. The texture was excellent, think of that wonderful piece of cold ham, except nice and meaty. The sodium level was on the high side, which I also enjoyed.

I didn't enjoy the Jellyfish Salad ($6.95) quite as much.

This wasn't terrible by any means, but it basically fulfilled the bare minimum, like a student just trying to get a passing grade. The jellyfish had a nice crunch, was cold, and didn't have that telltale sign of poor preparation; the acetone flavor. It was however, very bland, the (supposed) sauce just watered down, like this was rinsed and not drained well, sauced, and thrown on a plate….it was very bland.

By this time, I'd come here, what, five times (twice for take-out soup), so why not a sixth. And why not go for the gusto and order the Steamed Pork with Preserved Vegetable?

This was a decent dish; the pork a bit more crumbly, than the rather nice waxiness I prefer, but it wasn't too sweet, the sauce didn't kill the flavor of the pork, and yet it was salty enough to for me to eat way more rice than I'm used too (take that TFD!). I actually only ate three slices of the pork and some preserved vegetable; I was pretty much done after that. Still, a decent dish, one I'd have again.

So what to say? For someone who eats on Convoy, perhaps Chef Chin's makes some dishes better….but if I lived in, say, University City, I could make this a rather regular stop….at least for the Yin Doo Xin. Plus, I get a kick out of some of the Server's here. One of them is a hoot……she doesn't understand how someone of Japanese ancestry can be happily married to a mainland Chinese, so I explained it to her. "Everyday is a battle, but the peace treaties make it all worthwhile"!

Please read Kirbie's and Faye's posts on Chef Zhu.

Chef Zhu
1011 Camino Del Mar
Del Mar, CA 92014

Krua Thai Cuisine – Sab E Lee’s legacy spreads to the South Bay

May 5, 2014 mmm-yoso Thai Restaurants

A couple weeks back, "Rik" sent me an email telling me that a new Thai Restaurant had opened in Chula Vista and was serving up Issan style dishes. Which sounded great to me. I finally found time in my schedule to head down to Broadway and check out Krua Thai.

The place is a tiny hole-in-the-wall that you'll miss if you blink while driving past Halsey Street.

The tiny place, a couple of tables and a counter, with no A/C reminded me of Sab E Lee, circa 2008. And to my extreme surprise, when the cook came out front….we both stared at each other and laughed; it was one of the cooks from the later version of the Original Sab E Lee!

Sadly, looking over the menu, I noticed few Issan dishes; I was told that there's no customer base in the South Bay for Duck Larb, Koi Soi, Nam Tok and such. Still I ordered items that I thought would give a good indication of flavor, spice, and technique.

Starting with the Yum Nuea, the beef salad.

I ordered this at a heat level "7" and it did bring it on. The base flavors were there; mild sweetness, pungent fish sauce and garlic. Protein was pretty scarce and I didn't take to the iceberg lettuce, no cabbage and really tough beef makes this lean more on the "no bueno" side.

Issan Sausage (of course).

This was very dark and the casing a bit over-fried. Flavor the same as TOSEL, after all, it's the same sausage. No cabbage, ginger, chilies, and cucumber makes this kind of fall short. The wilted cilantro made the dish look sad….but the sausage was fine in spite of how dark the casing looked.

My usual test of the cooks wok skills, Pad See Ew (with shrimp).

This lacked the color and "wok hey" that I look for in Pad See Ew. I did appreciate that the noodles weren't over-cooked. The shrimp were also done right. The flavor was good, if a bit too sweet. This one just missed the mark.

The service was very friendly and mellow. I was told they'd make me anything from Sab E Lee's menu if I ordered ahead, so you might try and do that if you visit. This place has potential, the dishes are so close, just barely missing the mark. I'm sure I'll have a better meal next time. Nice folks here, I hope they do well.

Krua Thai Cuisine
686 Broadway
Chula Vista, CA 91910

So this meal got me thinking. I hadn't been to TOSEL in a while…..as much as I've written about the place, it seems that they've kind of "jumped the shark" over the last year or so. Many of the dishes I've gotten have been uneven and some of the young folks there seem to be somewhat blase' these days. Perhaps that's what success brings…..but I really do miss Koby and the tight ship he ran.

So I decided to drop by and order the Issan Sausage and the Yum Nuea.

You can see the difference, though the Beef Salad flavors were pretty close, the meat was more tender and there was just more of it. I will say, this is not the same as the version I enjoyed back in 2008. It seems like the flavors of some of the dishes here have been somewhat diluted, probably just as the talent pool of cooks is. Sad to say, TOSEL is just not on my rotation anymore……

The Original Sab E Lee
2405 Ulric St
San Diego, CA 92111

Though I haven't been to Sab E Lee Santee in ages…….

Noodling Around: Revisits to Ramen Yamadaya and Hinotez

May 4, 2014 mmm-yoso Bun Bo Hue, Japanese Restaurants, Ramen, Vietnamese Restaurants

We had a nice period of cooler weather before things turned really hot. It has been a pretty warm year, so we never had any period of real "noodle weather", so when things cooled down, I tried to make the most of it.

Ramen Yamadaya:

**** Ramen Yamadaya has closed

The first place I hit up was Ramen Yamadaya. We left less than satisfied on our last visit back in November. I ordered my usual, the Kotteri Tonkotsu, noodles extra firm, with garlic on the side. Things were better this time around, the broth nice and hot, the rich soup coating my tongue….and belly. Noodles were decently firm, and overall, this was a nice bowl. I guess our last visit was a fluke….I hope.

Ramen Yamadaya
4706 Clairemont Mesa Blvd
San Diego, CA 92117

On another note, the sign for the downtown location on Broadway is finally up. Still not much sign of activity and it's been over a year….but at least it's progress.

Hinotez:

I actually had been thinking of going to Yakyudori, but my meetings had run long…..try and get into Yakyudori, or any number of ramen shops on "the Mesa" at noon. I really didn't have the time, nor the internal fortitude to wait in line….so where to go? Well, I've never encountered a wait at Yakyudori's sister restaurant, Hinotez. I will say that in my experience, the ramen at Hinotez never really stood up to the Yakuyudori name, but since my choices were limited……

Like my experience at Yamadaya, the Shio Ramen ($7) here was better than on previous visits.

I actually hedged my bets by also ordering some Chicken Karaage, which were nice and lightly battered, but was on the tough and chewy side.

The ramen was pretty good, the nice mild sweetness of the salt was there, the noodles were wonderfully chewy. Not a fan of a chashu, which was dry, but at least it wasn't cold like on my last visit. The broth had a nice layer of fat floating on the top….this was a vast improvement since my last visit.

Hinotez
7947 Balboa Ave
San Diego, CA 92111

Two for two….nice!

I think we've got some cooler weather coming up this week, what are planning to eat?

Porto: Clérigos Church and Tower and Restaurante Antunes

May 3, 2014 mmm-yoso Porto, Portugal, Portuguese Food, Travel

After dropping off our provisions at the apartment, we headed up to Clérigos Church and Tower.

The tower, which you can see from almost every vantage point in Porto and the church took over 30 years to build and has become one of the enduring symbols of the city. The tower stands at 250 feet tall and since it stands on a hill, the views are outstanding.

The entire structure is built in the baroque style, designed by Italian architect Nicolai Nasoni. The facade of the church is quite imposing as it stands against the clear blue sky of Porto.

The tower stand behind the church and is the main site along with the famous Lello and Irmoa Bookstore (which we didn't visit) are the two main sights in the area.

Instead of heading right in, we took a walk around the tower. We saw folks having their morning coffee, the produce stand, which also conveniently sold postcards and other knickknacks was doing a nice business. I always wonder what it's like living in the shadows of a fairly busy monument….all those tourists like us wandering around….

There are 225 stairs to the top of the tower, which start fairly innocently, but soon things start getting kind of cramped. There's room only for one at certain points….you'll have to stop and let other pass you. One woman seemed to be having a bit of a claustrophobic attack.

Looking down from above provides a view that's almost Hitchcockian, or depending on your point of view, perhaps MeL Brooksian. Either way, I'm not a big fan of heights……..

There are portals….hey Porto portals, has a nice ring to it….along the way, which you can use to see the views and how high you're going. These too get smaller as you get higher.

One more thing, when you reach the top; you see that bell? Well, it does ring on the hour….it went off, quite loudly, and I almost jumped out of my shoes. It's very, very loud.

The payoff is a wonderful view of the red rooftops of Porto. Very nice on one seemed a typical, clear day in Porto.

And even if you're not a big fan of red rooftops, the others views aren't too shabby either.

The interior of the church is small, but very ornate. You'll find the tomb of Nocolai Nasoni in the church as well, as he asked to be buried here.

We wandered around a bit, then decided on grabbing lunch.

Along the way, we passed Ingreja do Carmo…Carmo Church which had some beautiful tile work (Azulejos) which depicts the founding of the Carmelite Order.

I had a place picked out for lunch, but the Missus really made me work for it……we headed up Rua Martires Liberadade, down another, and yet another street, until we hit Rua do Bonjardim and eventually Restaurante Antunes.

Noon is early for lunch on a weekend, so the rather small, but elongated restaurant belonged totally to us.

About 15 or so minutes later, the place started filling up, mostly with older, very properly dressed locals…for a nice weekend lunch I assume.

This restaurant is well known for their pernil…..pork leg, which, of course we got. It was a bargain at 15 Euros…..

This of course, was a load of food as it came with a ton of roasted potatoes and spinach which was much like esparregado. In terms of "pork pump", it was a decent dish, but a bit on the tougher side and it could have used more flavor.

The one dish that blew both of us away was the classic Porto dish Tripas à moda do Porto (8 Euros). This was so good…..

The smoked pork and chicken were basically garnishes; this was a hearty stew, thick and rich, with amazing flavor, the beans, cilantro, oh my….. The tendon was nice and tender, the tripe perfectly prepared. The Missus declared this one of Her "desert island dishes" and wants to go back to Porto just to find the best version. It is, without a doubt one of the best things we ate on this trip.

What was really funny is; our Server spoke no English, but it's obvious they push the pernil (pork leg) here. When we ordered this, he immediately protested, "no….no!" But we persisted; heck we had a kitchen, leftovers were welcome! Truly, they should be pushing this instead of the pork leg….but I guess folks are afraid of tripe, tendon, and a gooey stew. The supposed history of this dish is also quite interesting. According to legend, during the Conquest of Ceuta in 1415, Henry the Navigator commandeered all of the best provisions of Porto; which included all the best cuts of beef. All that was left was offal to feed the residents of Porto. The rest as they say, is history.

We left….fat and happy….

Antunes
Rua Bonjardim 525
Porto, Portugal

Knowing that we didn't have to eat all the food (we wiped out the tripas), made things so easy for us as we headed back to the apartment to drop things off.

The downtown area of Porto, away from all the shops was very quiet except for the occasional student excursion group.

The Missus decided that it was time to cross the river and have a taste of Port wine!

Stay tuned!