Sunday Stuffs: Pho Paradise coming to Convoy, The Original Tofu House to Mira Mesa, and other stuffs…..

Here's more stuff that I've seen recently.

Pho Paradise opening on Convoy:

Man, V Bakery barely lasted 6 months. Viet Bakery and Pho for not that much longer. So now, it's back to Vietnamese, something called Pho Paradise.

12262014 001

The "Pho" portion of the logo looks strangely familiar, but I just can't place it. I'm still hoping for decent pho in the Convoy-Kearny Mesa area……… I'm hoping this will at least be decent.

3904 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111

The Original Tofu House opening in Mira Mesa:

I saw this a couple of days ago and drove by yesterday to take a photo.

IMG_6174

Quite a few Korean food places opening around Mira Mesa.

I believe this used to be Arby's????

9089 Mira Mesa Blvd
San Diego, CA 92126

Casa Medina has moved?:

I noticed that Casa Medina had closed on the way home the other day. So I dropped by after work today to check it out.

IMG_6175

So it looked like the place has closed, until I turned around and saw the sign for Casa Medina along side that of the old Bismallah Restaurant above World Market & Produce.

IMG_6176

So unless the market likes to collect signs of defunct restaurants, you can now get your Halal tacos inside of World Market & Produce.

5440 Clairemont Mesa Blvd
San Diego, CA 92117 

Was it cold enough for you?

I thought it was pretty chilly this morning and checked my weather app. And did a double, no triple take….

IMG_6189

Must be a malfunction, right? This would be the weather in the Bay Park area……and would also be colder than what we experienced in Seattle!

My Christmas dinner:

Both the Missus and I have been working quite a bit. She had to work on Christmas and after grilling a ton of chicken for Her potluck and making Her a separate lunch/dinner, I really didn't feel like doing anymore cooking. So I decided to head over to Sushi Yaro and Sam put together a nice sashimi combo for me between the zillion rolls.

IMG_6159

It made for quite a feast. It was also nice seeing Sam; it had been a while. As a bonus, a couple of the "old-time" regulars whom I haven't seen in ages also dropped by, before the place got totally swamped. Sam mentioned that I've known him for about eleven years now! Time does fly…….

Sushi Yaro
7905 Engineer Road
San Diego, CA 92111

I hope you're having a great holiday season!

Miyajima Day 1: The beauty of Itsukushima Shrine and the “Floating Torii”, plus lunch at Yakigaki-no-Hayashi

Over the last couple of years, I've tried to plan something a bit "different" on our trips…..while it might not be different to the adventurous traveller, for basic folks, not on a tour, without a guide or handlers….well, it might be. When we visited Istanbul-Rhodes, we did a side trip to Symi. When in Tunisia, we travelled to Ksar Ghilane and slept in a tent in the Sahara, on our trip to Portugal and Rome, we visited Malta, on our trip earlier in the year, we took the train to Poperinge, then rented bikes to get to SAint Sixtus, in search of Westvleteren 12…..I know, there's a lot of catching up to do.

I knew there were places the Missus had always dreamed of visiting…..in some cases these places were just something from a photo She had seen. There was a classic photo of Japan……that looked something like this.

IMG_1306

The "Floating Tori"…….. So when making plans, between trips to Kyoto and Osaka, I made arrangements to stay over night on Miyajima. That way we'd be able to get past all the day trips. Luck was on our side as Typhoon Vongfong hit the night before we were set to leave.

IMG_5409

And by the time we left, it was clear skies…..

Three people emailed me asking for photos of the Shinkansen……so here are a couple of the "Bullet Train" arriving at Kyoto Station.

IMG_5417

IMG_5418

Getting to Miyajima is a slam dunk….get to Hiroshima Station and change trains to Miyajimaguchi and catch the ferry. The only delay was when the train stopped for about 30 minutes midway. I'm thinking there were still some problems post-typhoon that were being taken care of.

The ferry takes about 10 minutes or so, and finding our hotel, which was right across the Ferry Terminal was a slam dunk. We dropped off our bags and headed off. What I didn't know was that we'd be so busy doing things we wouldn't return until nightfall!

What I really didn't anticipate were how, well, interestingly persistent these residents of the island were.

10222014 483

The deer here are quite, well, I'm not sure if "tame" is the right word. They are used to humans and will grab your bag or tear into your pockets looking for something to snack on. On the other hand, it was funny seeing kids tease the deer and then suddenly have the tables turned…..

IMG_5461

There was, of course, one thing the Missus wanted to see. ….so we headed off ASAP. It wasn't hard finding the Floating Torii.

10222014 490

D60 10222014 204

D60 10222014 199

This torii is the gate to Itsukushima Shrine which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This Shinto Shrine is dedicated to the daughters of the God of the Sea and Storms, Susanoo-no-Mikoto.

D60 10222014 218

The island itself was considered sacred, so the shrine was built, out into the bay, so that pilgrims could visit without setting foot on, and defiling the island.

10222014 522In fact, I've read that to this day, no deaths or births are allowed in proximity to the shrine and no burials are allowed on the island!

It seems that the island was simply created for one to marvel in the beauty of it.

It's obvious why Miyajima is considered one of the three most scenic spots in Japan.

Photogenic sites like the 5-Story Pagoda look really beautiful, but not so much close-up.

It's much better to take a photo like this…..

D60 10222014 237

D60 10222014 238

IMG_5439And while the waterfront and the main shopping arcade are busy and full of tourists. It seems like the back streets are not. Right down the back steps from the pagoda things looked like this.

We caught the scent of coffee and found a little shop, which we later found is pretty popular named Sarasvati and had a nice cup fo coffee.

The great smell of coffee……it seems that Japan does love coffee and takes it to the next level.

IMG_5438

IMG_5437It was a nice break. We sat and put together a plan for the rest of the day….which seemed quite easy at the time.

Of ocurse, everything seems simple over a nice cup of iced and non-iced coffee. 

We hadn't eaten since our "Vongfong snacks" the night before so getting a bite ot eat would be the first priority.

IMG_5498I had received a recommendation for Miyajima from a friend. Now the trick was finding the place……addresses on Miyajima, much like other places in Japan are kind of a mystery to me. Though in terms of being a trick, it wasn't nearly as amazing as what what that pooch was doing standing on the dude's shoulders! That is one talented and well trained dog.

Anyway, bolstered by our coffee we set off….trying to find our lunch destination. One really nice thing about Miyajima, and Japan as a whole, is people are so very helpful.

As we wandered the back streets, we'd ask people for directions and they were so helpful.

10222014 501

The place was actually located in the main shopping arcade, duh. Here's a photo of the front of shop later in the day.

10222014 518

When we arrived, there was a line outside the restaurant and that oyster grill was going full tilt. Unfortunately, there were only "tatami style seating available. So, there I was….when was the last time I sat this way? I could hear my joints, making a sound like twigs snapping in a windstorm as I tried to sit correctly. My left foot immediately fell asleep and I had the mental picture of trying to get up and falling over on another table and impaling myself on one of those little replicas of the Floating Torii that accompanied the raw oysters.

It was oyster season, so guess what we ordered……

The Nama-Gaki, oysters on the half-shell, really didn't make much of an impression.

IMG_5445

While very meaty, they lacked any real, distinct flavor, that would make an imprint in my mind. Very mild, lacking in any great aftertaste, really not impressed. This would be great for the "oyster gringo", you know, the guy who hits the raw bar and says, "gimme the biggest oysters you got…..".

The anago really didn't impress me as well.

10222014 506

Things turned on the kaki-furai….the fried oysters seemed to highlite the best of the local bivalve.

10222014 509

My goodness, the initial crisp texture, followed by the meaty follow-up…something happens when you apply heat to these oysters; the briney-beefy flavor is magnified. This was quite delicious.

The crescendo peaked with the grilled oysters…..

IMG_5450

IMG_5454The smoke from the grill just added an additional layer of flavor which took these meaty morsels to the next level. Now I understood what the deal was with Miyajima Oysters……

Life was good. I managed to get up after our meal without falling over onto another table.

The Missus had made Her plans for the day and now it was all about surviving it.

Yakigaki No Hayashi
505-1 Hatsukaichi
Hiroshima Prefecture, Japan 

Kyoto Day 3: Typhoon Day – Nishiki Market, Shopping, Katsu Don, and Gyoza

The Missus had made some plans for our third day in Kyoto. Unfortunately, the impending arrival of Typhoon Vongfong made us change our plans a bit. Masae, the owner of our Machiya kept us apprised of the Typhoon situation, as did Kat. So instead of doing the Philosopher's Walk, we headed off to Shijo-dori to wander around and do some shopping. 10222014 438

Strangely, most things seemed like business as usual. We walked through the Gion and over the bridge, first heading to Nishiki Market, which, unlike the mass of humanity we encountered on our first day in Kyoto was quite sedate at this time of the day.

10222014 452

10222014 443

A handful of businesses were closed, but for most it was just another day it seemed. Like these two who were out scrubbing the walkway in fornt of their shop…….right before a Typhoon?

10222014 440

10222014 445

My favorite stop was the knife shop….with all the handmade scissors and knives.

10222014 450

10222014 446

At the east end of Nishiki Market on Teramachi street is Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine.

10222014 453

The lanterns are quite stunning.

10222014 454

The water that comes from the deep well in the shrine is supposed to be so pure and clean that it has no odor and the temperature is usually at a steady 65 degrees.

The shopping arcades were quite empty at this time of the morning……in startk contrast to our previous visit to the area.

10222014 457

We couldn't help but notice all the "Kyoto drip" gear in a shop called Holly's Cafe as we walked past.

IMG_5363

IMG_5362

IMG_5364The Missus, who's become a bit of a coffee nerd over the last year just had to stop. So I had a nice Kyoto cold brew….which was very cheap compared to the states….like about $2.50 or so!

It was a nice and relaxing break…….sitting and watching the folks walk by on a slightly wet Sunday morning.

Refreshed we headed off, across the Kamo River for the umpteenth time.

On the corner of Hanamikoji and Shijo streets the Missus found a bustling shop…..full of make-up and other stuffs. One of the objectives of this trip was to stock up on various brands and products, so the Missus was in heaven.

The store was a outpost of Yojiya a time honored Kyoto brand known for their facial blotting paper. The Missus had a blast and purchased a good number of gifts.

10222014 461

We'd done a pretty good job of passing the time and the Missus was getting hungry. She was still craving that karaage from Karako, so we headed up Higashishoji-dori, first stopping off to unload our purchases.

Unfortunately, Karako was closed due to the impending storm. I recalled a couple of shops across the street and we found one of them open. We decided on eating here based on the plastic food display.

IMG_5374

No English spoken, but not a big deal….. I had the Tempura Soba, which was nice and hot.

IMG_5368

The Missus had been wanting to have a Katsudon, one of Her favorite dishes since we got to Japan, so She got Her wish…though what She really wanted was a Chicken Katsudon, which seemed to be pretty rare…..anyway, She finally got a katsudon.

IMG_5369

IMG_5373She actually enjoyed the miso soup the most. As for the katsudon? I think it did the job, though She did tell me; "you know what….you make a pretty good katsudon."

Usually, when we travel, I get some aches and pains from all the walking……with the Missus making fun of all the "grandpa" noises I make. On this trip, I could tell that all the walking was taking a toll on the Missus as well. Somehow, it just made all my aches feel that much better….I guess sharing the wealth does that to you.

Heading back for a post lunch nap we passed this shop.

10222014 470

10222014 472

This place specialized in Yatsuhashi, one of the most well known confections of Kyoto.

We decided to get a few nama yatsuhashi….the soft, unbaked version to try.

10222014 473

I'm not big on sweets and the Missus doesn't care for cinnamon flavored confections, so while it was nice to try these, I don't think we'll be racing back to buy any.

10222014 475

We headed back in a rather roundabout way, taking our time. It had started to rain intermittently, the sky was getting pretty dark, and the wind was starting to pick up.

10222014 481

Even the ducks in Shirakawa Canal seemed to think something was up as they all faced the same direction….upstream.

IMG_5381

10222014 482We headed back to the machiya, the Missus took a nice long bath, and I worked on a post. We'd been going at a pretty good pace so an easy day was a nice treat and just what we needed.

After a short nap we awoke and decided to take a walk around. It was starting to rain pretty hard and the wind was blowing pretty good…..but there were still quite a few people and cars out and about.

We wandered around a bit, then headed back….

10222014 480Meanwhile, many of the shops in the shopping arcade started closing up early. Even with all of this; things just seemed to happen at a very relaxed pace. Before leaving Tokyo, we chatted with Reiko about the Typhoon. She said, "yes Kirk-san, there will be some rain, maybe some wind……." Some rain? Maybe some wind?

Darkness seemed to fall quickly, like someone pulling a shade down. The big question was, "what are we going to eat?" There was always picking something up at Family Mart….you could basically live out of convenience stores in Japan….though I'm not quite sure what your sodium levels would be after a couple of weeks.

We'd noticed a gyoza shop right around the corner from the shopping arcade the previous day. This seemed like a simple, light meal.

IMG_5388

IMG_5391Just one of the many shops you see everywhere…. Serving basically one thing; here it's gyoza, with a few small "salads" on the menu. And cold beer……nice, cold, and refreshing beer.

The gyoza was as good a gyoza can be; crisp on the bottom, the filling nice and light….nothing like a good guotie, mind you, but still good.

We actually enjoyed the onion salad more.

IMG_5394

IMG_5396

IMG_5398

IMG_5401

Earlier in the evening, Kat sent me a text, reminding me to pick up some snacks since we wouldn't be going out and about this evening. Thanks Kat! So on the way back, we dropped by the market, which was pretty busy…….. I guess everyone was buying some snacks on typhoon night!

IMG_5405 

10222014 283

So that's what we did as typhoon Vongfong passed. The Missus was upstairs reading….while I turned on a television for the first time during this whole trip and watched storm reports….

IMG_5407

While having a couple of beers and some snacks.

Sometime before drifting off to sleep the Missus said, "you owe me……another trip to Kyoto". I told Her, "no problem, we can come back anytime you want." We have unfinished business here. Which I'm hoping to take care of in the near future.

Thanks for reading! 

Kyoto Day 2: Ippodo Tea, dinner at Okariba, and the Awata Jinja Lantern Parade

On the way back to the machiya, we ran into Masae, the owner of the property and also the craft beer bar in the shopping arcade. We asked her about finding some tea. She recommended a visit to Ippodo Tea. So after a nice shower and a short nap, we headed off to find Ippodo. Up Higashioji-dori, then west on Marutamachi, crossing the Kamo River…..left on Teramachi-dori right when you hit Kyoto Imperial Palace Park……about four block down, you'll find Ippodo.

10222014 383

IMG_5318

The shop and the connected Kaboku Tearoom, where you learn to make and also taste various teas was doing some brisk business. One of the young ladies spoke excellent English. We didn't have time to dally, but she went over all the main types of tea with the Missus and we got to sample a few. We ended up purchasing a few packages…..which the Missus loves. I'm thinking we'll be back.

IMG_5319

Ippodo Tea
Teramachi-dori Nijo, Nakagyo-ku
Kyoto

We really weren't sure of exactly where our dinner destination was. I'd heard of a place serving rustic wild game; I recall the term "mountain food" a couple times when reading about the place. It really didn't take us long to find the place. Masae pointed out it was near the Hotel Heiannomori, right past Okazaki Shrine.

IMG_5329

The rabbit is the spirit of the shrine and is also said to house the god and goddess of easy childbirth.

IMG_5331

It's a nice peaceful place to visit.

IMG_5332Right past the shrine, you can't help but locate Okariba. You can't miss the signs. The place is dark, warm, and very rustic looking. The trappings are simple; a large grill in the middle of the room; beer kegs lie about, the lines drawn to the taps. The owner is a very gentle and soft-spoken bespeckled gentleman named Aoki-san….whose mild manner belies the name of the place; "Hunting Ground" as well as the firearms hanging on the wall.

10222014 385

The Missus took a quick look at the sake bottles on one of the tables and said; "he has his own sake, with the name of the place on it."

10222014 386

10222014 387

10222014 402And so we sailed off on our maiden voyage at Okariba, with simple, but nicely braised slices of daikon and aburage.

The sake was mild and sweet, but really, this type of food called for beer. After starting with this; it was beer all the way.

Things started off with what is probably the signature dish here (though folks who came in later all ordered trout); the grilled wild boar. Wonderful, surprisingly tender chunks of wild boar with a classic Japanese marinade and tare; smokey from the charcoal, slightly sweet, nicely porky, but mild. The portion size was quite a surprise for us; this is enough for two or three to start.

10222014 389

10222014 391

10222014 392We weren't going to Kyushu, but I knew I could get a specialty of that area here; basashi – horse sashimi. I really love the flavor of horse; I know, it's not PC…..but it's not endangered either, right?

This was very nice; served just slightly frozen, just the way I was told it shoud be, the flavor is quite clean, with a mild sweet finish. The texture is like beef, with a tad more toothfullness. I love this dish…..

10222014 394

10222014 395Arriving with the basashi was a combination of preserved vegetables and something else….more on that in a bit. I grew up eating items like takana-zuke, so I loved the pickled greens. I'd never had fuki-miso, basically akunuki butterbur, stirfried with miso, then preserved.

The most interesting thing was the "Inago" – locusts, which had been glazed with a wonderful sweet mirin-soy. These were nice and crisp and so sweet and salty….going well with beer.

10222014 398

The Missus's favorite dish by far was the hobamiso…….

10222014 404

A wonderful, savory, but not salty miso with mushrooms and scallions grilled on a leaf. It was funny; we thought we were doing pretty well; but Aoki-san came by……and decided he needed to show us how it was done….it became this wonderful, miso-mess of flavors.

10222014 405

This just screamed for another beer; so we ordered one. And were soon surprised with this….Aoki-san brought it over and said "gift-tu"….. Some nice home made tofu.

10222014 407

Then another "gift"….this was fantastic. I'd never had Wasabi-zuke before. This was wonderful; made from the leaves and stems of the wasabi plant; on occasion you'd get a super pungent bite, but the flavors were amazing, sweet-pungent-bitter-sour-salty…totally my kind of dish.

10222014 409

When this arrived, I just thought I needed to have another beer…..he's giving us free food. So I had another beer….at which time fried tofu arrived.

10222014 411

10222014 412By this time I figured out…the more we drank, the more stuff would be coming out. I'd better quit here or we'd be literally rolling back! If there was a time I wished we could tip in Japan, it was here. The warmth and hospitality made me want to do something. I should have brought some omiyagi, or something……

As you can tell….we loved this place.

Okariba
Okazaki Higashi-Tennocho 43-4, Residence Okazaki 1F
Kyoto

The Missus decided that we needed to burn off some of this, so we'd walk back to Shijo-dori…..I figure, that's like 2-3 kilometers? It was really a fun walk though……this was a lively night.

10222014 417

10222014 419Folks were out and about, having a good time.

Karako, the place where we had great karaage earlier in the day has quite a nice line going. 

We decided to follow the Shirakawa canal through Gion. I took this photo on one of the cement bridges, the type with no handrails that passes over the canal near Shinbashi.

10222014 420

10222014 428

10222014 430Crossing over the Kamo river, we then headed up, the now busy Ponto-chō, restaurants now going full tilt.

As we passed by a hair salon, something caught my eye. I pointed out the one guy doing "hair" in the salon, which was closed to the Missus. She said, "yeah, he's doing hair, so what?" I told Her to take a look….that head had no body! He was actually working on a wig placed on a mannequin head. I'm not sure if this is SOP….but it just seemed a bit, well, strange……

10222014 431

IMG_1302

And finally, there as Shijo-dori….while not crazy as Tokyo; which seems to actually be pulsating with it's own heartbeat, the crowds and objective sure were a contrast to the Gion. 

The Missus really seemed to take to Kyoto. The size, the crowds, the shops, were just Her speed.

At this point, we decided to head back…….the Missus was tired for a change.

As we crossed Furumozen-dori, we noticed some activity up ahead. Lanterns, laughter, drums……and strange specters seemed to float ahead.

IMG_5340

Suddenly we both remembered. Masae had told us that Awata Matsuri was happening this weekend. This was the Awata Jinja Lantern Festival! We were told that one of the key points of the Matsuri was that this was the day when both the Buddhist and Shinto Priests actually get together and celebrate together.

Then of course, there's the inevitable intermingling that occurs when everyone takes a break at Family Mart!

IMG_5343

Once things got started, we quickly made it back to the machiya. Why? Well, because the lantern parade went right through the shopping arcade, right past where we were staying…..

D60 10222014 183

D60 10222014 184

D60 10222014 188It's quite amazing. The paradox, the new, modern, somewhat glitzy, but there's always the respect for tradition that pulls things in….bringing order to things.

I won't pretend to understand what any of these floats mean….but, if you're interested, you can read this wonderful and informative post. It describes all the lanterns/floats and what they mean.

And frankly, I just felt honored to be here…..

IMG_5348

IMG_5347And also very thankful. For the fire control, who instantly put out all the burning embers from the fire which was placed on the ground for some symbolic reason. Once it was lifted back up, they sprung into action and made sure everything on the ground was put out in the blink of an eye…….that's Japan in a microcosm.

Having started our day before 5 in the morning, we'd walked at least 7-8 miles easily. The Missus, for the first time I can recall was totally bushed. It had been quite a day. I'd planned our "red-lettered day" in Tokyo; starting with Tsukiji Market and meals at Michelin starred Sushi Iwa and Suzunari. And while that was an epic and unforgettable day. This rather unscripted, hastily planned day was its equal…..Sushi Iwa and Suzunari showed me the skill, execution, and polish of a great restaurant. Karako and Okariba displayed the heart and soul……each has its place in my eating universe.

Thanks for reading!

 

Kyoto Day 2: Fushimi Inari, Kiyomizu-dera, and the best fried chicken at Karako

Our first day in Kyoto was pretty tiring……I gotta admit, I get pretty wiped out when we travel; but man, the Missus was totally fried as well. I was asleep before my head hit the pillow and up before 5am. After encountering the crowds at Fushimi Inari the day before, I just knew that the best way to experience the place would be early in the morning or late at night. So we got on the Tozai line, transferred at Yamashina to the Biwa line, got off at Kyoto Station, which wasn't quite as confusing as the previous and got on the Nara line….getting off at Inari Station. Fushimi Inari-taisha is literally right across the street.

D60 10222014 122

10222014 340

10222014 308Fushimi Inari is the head shrine of Inari Okami, the Kami…..which is hard to describe in English, let's just say it's the spirit, god, or deity of  most importantly, rice, but also fertility, sake, and foxes…… which, if I recall serve as messengers for the Kami. At the entrance of the shrine, you'll see a statue of a fox (no, it's not a "doggie") holding the key to the granary. I remember learning about the kitsune serving the rice god in elementary school….funny what you recall at odd moments in life.

10222014 323

IMG_5243For most folks……us included, the most stunning feature of Fushimi Inari are the 30,000 plus gates that line the paths up the mountain, which is also named Inari. Each torii (gate) is paid for and donated by businesses….which you totally forget about when you see it.

It is both beautiful and haunting seen at dawn with nary another person around. Just the sound of your footsteps and the wind whispering through the trees.

No loud chatter or folks brandishing "selfie poles".

This is what I saw in my mind's eye when I thought of Kyoto.

D60 10222014 144

After taking in the atmosphere of Fushimi Inari, we headed back to Inari Station, got back on the Nara line, getting off at the first stop at Tokufuji and hopping on the Keihan line, getting off at Kiyomizu-Gojo. from there it's about a 20-25 minute walk past all the shops.

  D60 10222014 151

And a shrine or two.

10222014 341

Up the mountain to Kiyomizu-dera.

10222014 343

This most well known feature of this temple complex is the veranda of the main hall, which has great views of Kyoto. Though, I think more people take photos of people taking photos on the veranda.

D60 10222014 159

10222014 349

I understand that not a single nail is used for any structure in the temple complex…..

10222014 350

10222014 362

Heading past the three story pagoda and down below the main hall is Otowa Waterfall. Drinking of the water from the waterfall is supposed to bring good health and a long life.

10222014 359

D60 10222014 164So of course the Missus had to partake!

Heading back down the mountain, you'll notice some steps and a sign to your right, this leads to Sannenzaka, then Nannenzaka. Two well preserved neighborhoods.

This was one of the most pleasant walks we had on our trip. It was early, with few tourists, so you could really enjoy the restored structures. It felt like a trip back in time.

D60 10222014 167

D60 10222014 172We took a break at a little shop near Yasaka Pagoda and Kodai-ji Temple.

The coffee….all pour over, was great and restorative. We made plans for what we'd do on our next leg. It was nice respite.

We'd head up to Maruyama Park and Chion-in Temple.

Somehow, we got a little of course and ended up at Higashi Otani Honganji. There was a large service going on…..

10222014 371

10222014 372

As we righted our course and headed toward Maruyama Park, we could hear country and western music playing…..the singing was of course, in Japanese. Apparently there was a Country and Western Music Festival close by….it was just another one of those strange and rather surreal moments.

10222014 374

Past the park is Chion-in Temple, which was going though some major restoration at the time of our visit.

10222014 382

By now we were "hitting the wall". We'd seen the places we really wanted to see and temple fatigue was setting in. It was time to change our focus…..so we headed bacl to the machiya to freshen up…and then off to lunch.

We had decided on a ramen shop I had heard off named Karako. The address 12-3 Okazaki Tokusei-cho was a bit difficult, but it looked like it was right on Higashioji-dori….which is kind of where we found the place.

IMG_5311

IMG_5298

We were the first customers to arrive and the older gentleman pointed to some seats at the end of the counter.

IMG_5297

We quickly placed our order and he spoke the only English I heard our whole time there, pointing to the hijiki, tofu, and green salad on the counter he said, "helpu you self….."

IMG_5296

The prices were very reasonable – Â¥650 for the Kotteri Ramen.

IMG_5307

IMG_5308The chashu was wonderful, full of flavor, just melt in you mouth delicious. The noodles were fine, just chewy enough. In spite of being "kotteri", as in extra rich, the broth really lacked the tongue coating texture and the richness in flavor I enjoy. This was my least favorite bowl of ramen during our trip.

The Missus got the Chashu Rice Bowl Â¥320 – which had the wonderful chashu.

IMG_5302

The one item which was a total surprise was the karaage. It has got to be one of the best I've ever had.

IMG_5303
 

IMG_5309Light and crisp, moist and succulent, with wonderful flavor, a touch of ginger, slightly sweet, shoyu tones, and something else…..deep and savory. And a bargain at Â¥500 – like five bucks!

This was just fantastic fried chicken……probably worth a side trip to Kyoto!

A few minutes after we sat, folks started streaming in. The older gentleman ordered the special, which was a bowl of ramen, a bowl of rice, and chicken….which turned out to be an entire order…five pieces for Â¥880!

IMG_5300

We kept watching to see how he heck he was going to finish his food…well, he's got his own system down. He ate the ramen and took the rice and chicken to go!

We actually tried to return to Karako the next day, but they were closed…..bummer. But hey, next time we know what to order, don't we? As in this old saying.

Karako
12-3 Okazaki Tokusei-cho
Kyoto

There was of course, a requisite short nap after this lunch, so we headed back. Little did we know that we'd be having another wonderful experience for dinner.

Stay Tuned! 

Yakitori Taisho revisited

Taisho Rev 01In just little under a month, Yakitori Taisho has become a regular part of our rotation. We like the mellow ambiance of the place, the rather cozy, somewhat intimate (12seats)interior….and of course the yakitori! The Chef is quite skilled, aided by just one helper and the waiter/server…….I can imagine it must be nuts if the place is packed……which it has not been during our visits. The Chef is a really nice guy, somewhat reserved, but very friendly once he gets to know you. He is from Nagoya,a classically trained Yakitori-man. Nagoya is quite significant here….especially for one of the dishes below. He really started opening up when we started chatting about Nagoya Cochin, the special breed of chicken Nagoya is famous for…..also for lively discussion on torisashi, basashi, okonomiyaki (he is a fan of Hiroshima style, while the Missus argues for Osaka style), and other things……

Taisho Rev 13I'm going to list our favorites in descending order…..excluding the items I've posted on already. I will say, the buta-shiso, tsukune, and teba are at the top of our list, so hopefully you've read that post.

The Beef Tongue:

Shades of Tanyaki Shinobu, this wonderful piece of braised, then grilled tongue would fit right in….

Taisho Rev 08

All the classic flavors in one bite. The exterior of the tongue has a touch if crispness from being grilled over the bincho which also adds just a hint of smoke flavor. This is one heck of a piece of meat on a stick. They don't always have it since I was told it takes a bit of time to make. You'll find it on the specials board.

Aka Himo (chicken vein):

Taisho Rev 03

I love the slightly chewy texture and this is full of flavor from both the bincho and the dip in the tare.

Kimo (chicken liver):

I'm not a fan, but the Missus just loves this.

Taisho Rev 02

On the other hand, I love the….

Sunagimo (gizzards):

Taisho Rev 07

For some reason, the gizzards here seem to absorb a nice amount of smokey flavor and it has just the right amount of "crunch" for me.

Tebasaki:

Not to be confused with the really good grilled vesion I posted on earlier. Nagoya is well known for their chicken wings….so when I asked if he served that style of wings….he said, of course.

Taisho Rev 05

No miso based sauce on this, but the other qualities of Nagoya-teba was present…..a generous amount of black pepper and sesame seeds. Fried very nicely, crisp and light, touched with a nice sweet-soy; what's not to like?

Chicken Karaage:

Well, of course. A bit lighter than the version at Yakyudori, this has a more pronounced ginger flavor.

Taisho Rev 04

A very nice rendition……

The Shiitake:

Was nice and meaty, the katsuobushi adding another layer of savory flavors.

Taisho Rev 06

The Aspara Bacon:

Was fine. Pretty much by the book.

Taisho Rev 10

Not quite sure why the Missus loves quail eggs so much.

Taisho Rev 11

Mekabu with quail egg:

Taisho Rev 09

Lovely gooeyness, with a mellow ocean flavor. I'm told that mekabu comes from the base of the sea flora from which wakame grows. 

The one item which we felt did not quite reach the heights we wanted was the yaki nasu.

Taisho Rev 12

The eggplant just didn't seem to have absorbed any of the bincho flavor and was on the bland side.

Taisho Rev 14

Taisho Rev 15Nagoya is known for their chicken, so we fully expected the yakitori to be pretty good….it's that beef tongue which really surprised us. In combination with the other items that are our favorite here, we have a pretty nice rotation going.

We enjoy the almost one-on-one experience here, it's much more personal. Though, like I said, I'm not sure how things are when they're busy. The robata dishes here tend to be less salty than Yakyudori and a bit more refined. And no, it's not a loud and roaring place to grab brews and meat-on-a-stick with coworkers…….which makes it nice for date night. Which we've been having quite often lately.

Yakitori Taisho
5185 Clairemont Mesa Blvd.
San Diego, CA 92117
Hours:
Tues – Sunday 4pm – 11pm

Places we’ve posted on too many times: Tsuruhashi, Aqui es Texcoco, and Koon Thai

Yep, we've done a ton of posts on these places, so here are mostly photos.

Tsuruhashi:

We've been coming since they first opened, though I haven't posted on the place in a couple of years. Forgot to take a photo of the Yukke, but here's the rest….oh, and we had two orders of the "harami" – prime skirt steak.

08282014 002

08282014 003

08282014 005

Service recently has been really nice…….so we've been enjoying ourselves here.

Tsuruhashi Japanese BBQ
3904 Convoy St.
San Diego, CA 92111

Aqui es Texcoco:

The only one of the the Missus's three favorites back in March to survive until winter. Except I was the one who was craving the mixiote.

Aqui es Tex Again 00

Aqui es Tex Again  00a

Aqui es Tex Again 01

Aqui es Tex Again 02

I never noticed the Plato Azteca on previous visits…basically nopales (cactus) stir fried with two selections….I choose huitlacoche(of course) and flor de calabaza (squash blossom).

Aqui es Tex Again 03

delici-oso!!!

Aqui Es Texcoco
1043 Broadway
Chula Vista, CA 91911

As a bonus, I ran into none other than Sawyer at Hogetsu! Great seeing you man!

Koon Thai:

Rather close to the office, there are a couple of dishes I think they do well.

The fried spareribs is not one of them.

Koon Again 01

The Khao Karr Moo – the simmered pork leg, takes me back to Thailand…..getting off a water taxi, you're inundated by the fragrances coming off the various food stands…..

Koon Again 02

The Pla Sahm Rod presentation looked sloppy, but it had a decent flavor and the fish was fried well.

Koon Again 03

Not as good as my previous visit, the rice was terrible, some of it hard as rock, the other hald mushy. Still, we didn't come here for the rice. Service was friendly, even though the place was totally slammed at lunch. Much better than the sometimes surly service I'd gotten here at times in the past.

Koon Thai Kitchen
3860 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111

Tokyo Day 2: Sensō-ji and tongue eight ways at Tanyaki Shinobu

Even though we'd done a good bit of walking already, the Missus wasn't done. After our light lunch, the Missus decided She wanted to visit Sensō-ji. So we headed back onto the Ginza line, getting off at Asakusa. It was no problem finding the temple, you just follow the crowds! Man was the place packed. There's a long street leading to the temple gate lines with small shops called Nakamise-dōri. It would have been quite charming if things weren't so crowded. To get to the temple, you need to pass through the impressive Kaminari-mon, the "Thunder Gate".

D60 10222014 056

Sensō-ji was founded in 645, which makes it the oldest temple in Tokyo. According to the story, in 628, IMG_5107two brothers, Hinokuma Hamanari and Hinokuma Takenari pulled their nets out of the Sumida River. Caught in the net was a statue of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy. The village chief, Hajino Nakamoto, recognized the importance of the statue and turned his home into a temple to enshrine the statue.

The area is quite impressive. If we ever get back to Tokyo, I think an early morning visit might be in order.

D60 10222014 059

As things stood, it was a bit too crowded for us. We wandered a bit, before sneaking out a side street.

D60 10222014 065

We got back on the Ginza line, transferring to the Chuo line back to Yotsuya. We strolled the neighborhood a bit before heading back to the apartment to do some laundry and take a short nap.

Soon enough, evening rolled around. On the night we arrived, we had walked to a little place in Yotsuya. Somehow, using just the handful of Japanese I knew, I managed to get reservations for dinner. Finding out that our friend Reiko was free, I told her to call the place….there's just no way I'd be able to communicate effectively over the phone, and have her added to our reservations. We walked over to Yotsuya Station and met Reiko. Getting to the place from here was a short 7-8 minute walk; though if it was up Reiko, who walks at the "Tokyo pace"….very quickly, we'd have gotten there in five!

Our destination was a little shop named Tanyaki Shinobu. Yep, this place specialized in beef tongue.

10222014 197

The interior of the Izakaya is small, rustic, and sorts of wraps you up in itself. There is counter seating, or like what we had tiny tables, with stump-like stools….if you had less than six in your party, you shared the table, which didn't bother us at all. Luckily, the cigarette smoke was kept to a minimum.

A big plus was having Reiko with us…..she told us, there are 8 tongue dishes on the menu……so we ordered all 8.

Things started off with the very simple sounding "Boiled Tongue". Which was simply amazing.

10222014 201

The pure beef flavor was so pronounced that you almost expected the dish to bellow out a strong "Mooo…" The tongue kept its form until it hit your tongue, at which time it just melted away. The was just perfectly flavored and simmered. In fact, we had another order of this.

The Missus just adored the ponzu pickled yamaimo.

10222014 202

I'd never had mountain yam this good. The "ponzu-zuke" really added a nice flavor to the yamaimo, the sour seemed to bring out a bit more of the background sweetness, it also seemed to make the yamaimo less slimy. There's a nice crunch to this very refreshing dish.

The Tan Stew was very tender, with what tasted like a red wine based demi glace.

10222014 205

The Tan no Shogani – ginger stew, brought all those familiar comforting flavors to me.

10222014 207

The salty-sweet-ginger flavors in this shoyu based braised dish was just perfect. Nice texture, not falling to pieces, but with a light chew. We also had an additional order of this.

The tongue stewed in miso was also delicious.

10222014 209

The scallions added just enough pungency and the konnyaku a nice textural contrast. Very balanced flavors and not as salty as I thought it would be.

The pickled cucumbers were a bit of a surprise.

10222014 210

Pickled in shoyu and garlic, with a mild chili kick, both the Missus and I immediately thought of Pai Huang Gua (掟黄瓜) – the "Smacked Cucumbers" that I make.

Strangely, the dish the Izakaya is named after; the Tanyaki – broiled tongue was probably our least favorite.

10222014 213

A bit too thick and rubbery for our tastes. It was also on the salty side.

The miso cured tongue (on the left) and the salt cured tongue (on the right) were nice.

10222014 215

10222014 217I preferred the salt cured version. Eaten with onions and a squeeze of sudachi it was chewy, yet pleasant, and yes, cured, not cooked.

The Kinoko no shioyaki – salt grilled eryngii mushrooms were fragrant and earthy. The texture, nice and meaty.

The meal ended with Tan Soup, which was so good. The soul of the cow condensed into this wonderful, clear broth.

10222014 218

Man, this was a great meal…one main ingredient, beef tongue presented a different ways. When I first told the Missus about this place, She wasn't too thrilled. But now, She was sold.

Tanyaki Shinobu
16 Saneicho
Shinjuku, Tokyo

It was great to see Reiko, it had been a while. Nice to know she is happy and healthy, and we hope to see her again soon!

We walked back to the apartment feeling a bit sad. We had really enjoy our time in Tokyo. Tomorrow, it was off to Kyoto! 

COMC: Wa Dining Okan with Friends (again)

I realize I've done a post like this before. But heck, it's been nearly four years since then. I've really missed my good friends…..you get busy with work and life in general and sometimes having that get together kind of falls by the wayside. We were supposed to have lunch last week, but things just got too crazy, so I was glad to be able to connect with TFD, YY, Xiangjiao, Mr C, and Quanito for dinner at Okan.

As always, the company trumped the food, which wasn't too shabby.

11102014 015

11102014 017

11102014 019

11102014 021

11102014 024

11102014 027

11102014 028

11102014 030

11102014 032

11102014 023It's quite easy to fall in the trap of chasing he latest and greatest…especially with a food blog. I think of the blog as sort of a food diary of sorts, so I try not to let that happen…which means there are quite a few revisits. But that's sort of how I eat.

And of course, there's friends….and we did have a nice meal. I can't believe we haven't touched bases in months! I'll try not to let that happen again.

There are items that Okan does well and items I try to avoid, you can read about it in more detail in our older posts or even here.

Hope you're having a great week!

Wa Dining Okan
3860 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111

Tokyo Day 1: Dinner at Suzunari

I'd planned of having a heck of a first full day in Tokyo….it was to be our "red lettered day". We started out at Tsukiji Market, then had lunch at Sushi Iwa. I wanted to finish off the evening with something special. initially, I thought about one of those 2-3 Michelin Star places….but, as I've mentioned before, I think folks put a bit too much in the "star" system, though there's a good bit a rating like that does say. I started thinking a bit differently about things when I overheard a conversation regarding some of the "top rated" places in Tokyo…..and I read about this common theme as well. You won't find any Japanese Nationals at many of these places….nowadays it's mostly Chinese/European/American tourists. Nothing wrong with that, but it's just not our style. Also, we wanted something that wasn't too stuffy or pretentious, not overdone and precious. I wanted a place where we'd find Japanese eating. After doing a whole lot of research, hemming and hawing, a little Kaiseki place named Suzunari came up. No, you won't find it on Chowhound, I just did a search on the Japan board before starting this post. A big plus was this little place was located in rather close proximity to our apartment in Yotsuya. The only obstacle was trying to get reservations…nothing online, we had no concierge, no English spoken. We're lucky to have friends who were able to make reservations for us. So we headed down the narrow streets of Arakicho a neighborhood of small, somewhat private looking bars and restaurants….we just followed the Salarymen.

10222014 124

I had read that Suzunari had no real sign and it was very difficult to find so we started early….strangely, perhaps it was luck, we found the place with no problems at all. Sticking my head in the door, quietly saying in my fumbling Japanese "Yoyaku shitemasu……" to the young woman working the tables, suddenly I heard a greeting from behind me……this happened to be Chef Murata and the kind and warm young lady is his wife. They were of course expecting us, first grabbing our coats then leading us to our seats at the bar.

10222014 125The bar seating was already filled in this tiny restaurant.

There are three versions of the menu available, basically, 60, 100, or 150 dollars. Heck, we were in Tokyo, we had arranged for the 15,000 yen menu. There's so much preparation done ahead of time, that you need to indicate which offering you want. I had the folks choose our Nihonshu, just indicating we wanted something "local"… the young woman knew a little English, which helped, and I did my best….which wasn't much.

It was great watching Chef Murata and his assistant prep all the dishes. The entire staff was a total of four, the Chef, his second, his wife who worked the front of house, and an older woman, who seemed to be one of their mothers, who took care of the dishes and cleaning….it really seemed to be a family affair. And yes, this is Tokyo, most everything was done in almost a hushed silence. 10222014 131

The meal itself was amazing…..Chef Murata would often stop everything he was doing to try and explain what he was serving, or his wife would try to find the English words for items……they seemed to be pleasantly surprised that I knew the Japanese or at least the English names of what was being served. Of course there were still many, many, gaps…items I've not had experience with, which made this meal even more pleasant.

10222014 127

The Sakizuke, first course was a refreshing, understated course of shrimp and tender tako with what seemed like, but I don't think was grated yamaimo, it was too smooth. The aspic was subtle, but refreshing.

10222014 129

The range of flavors all seemed to compliment each other…….so smooth…

The Hassun, basically a arrangement of appetizers was one of the most impressive things I've ever seen.

10222014 135

10222014 133

D60 10222014 027No matter what angle I tried; I couldn't capture the breath of this in one photo. It's also impossible to explain all the tastes, textures, and fragrances in just a few words.

I will say, some the simpler items were just amazingly perfect; the smoked duck was moist and tender that you would think it was pork, except it had that nice duck flavor….the ginnan, earthy, with a hint of sweet and bitter but also made crunchy. The two almost ohitashi like dishes; the greens and mushrooms with yuzu, topped with beautiful, briney ikura, served in a hollowed out yuzu….the fragrance of the fruit adding a nice touch. The tai with shiokara sauce, sweet, pungent, chewy and silky smooth at the same time. The bo-zushi was a fantastic combination of milky and savory flavors, cut by the vinegar in the rice. You really could go on and on…..

10222014 136

And yet, the one item we're still talking about is the simply perfect shirako……..perhaps my best bit of the year. Firm until it enters your mouth, turning into a wonderful melting creaminess upon your first bite. Just simply amazing.

The Mukōzuke, the sashimi course, was fine…….

10222014 147

The Mushimono – steamed dish was a fabulous. A chawan-mushi, steamed egg dish, was so smooth and custard like. This version had suppon (soft shell turtle) in it.

10222014 139

Comfort food taken to the next level…..the suppon is quite mild in flavor.

10222014 140

Botan Ebi – October is pandalus nipponesis season from what I understand.

10222014 142

10222014 143

You know which part we treasured the most, right?

10222014 145

10222014 148We watched as fish were skewered and roasted/broiled in the salamander. Chef told me what kind of hikarimono these were but I really couldn't understand and I didn't want to take him away from the now full house he was dealing with. I figure these were the yakimono items.

The fish were rich, with good oil, savory, and quite tender. Our favorite was the version served with a smooth, savory, beany, but not salty aka miso. It just blended in so well with the fish and especially the shiitake mushroom….umami overload.

10222014 150

This was so good, we don't even remember the next item…….

10222014 152

I'm thinking this was a palate refresher….because next up was the Kamameshi, the grand finale as it were. Noticing that I was taking photos……the young lady kindly brought me the pot of rice to photograph before serving……it was just so touching in a way….so thoughtful….

10222014 154

10222014 155Mixed and served with the typical Kōnomono, seasonal pickles…..this was by far the best kamameshi we'd ever had…it was just masterfully prepared, so perfect in proportion. Also, the entire pot was for us! We saw the couple next to us totally clean out the entire pot….but there was no way we could do this. In the typical way, they made onigiri for us.

10222014 156

The aka miso shiru had a large amount of lobster in it. It was rich, yet not salty……it wasn't a favorite of the Missus, who I guess prefers the really salty versions we have here in the states….She really didn't care for any of the miso soup we had in Japan.

And yes, there's dessert….but there was no way we'd be able to do that. I just nodded "no" and patted my stomach and said, "oh no. soon sumotori….." Which got a nice laugh.

As the evening wore down, the folks here took time to formally introduce themselves to us and kind of of wondering where we were from. I do wish I spoke and understood more Japanese. They were genuinely surprised to find we were from San Diego.

We both loved Suzunari. In fact, if we're ever back in Tokyo, I'll try and find a way to return. The food is great, the folks running the place are wonderfully gracious, very relaxed, and so sincere. It's more than wonderful food; it was a memorable experience It was the perfect place for us; no pretense, not stuffy, a family operation, gracious hosts, and fantastic food. There were no tourists in the place other than us……the place was fully booked. We didn't want any concessions and that's a great thing we found in Japan, I'm sure there are places that will do this….but as a whole, you'll eat like the people. We loved it!

IMG_1246 Yes, you need to book months in advance as it has perhaps 8 bar seats and three small tables. And yes, they do have a Michelin star. 

All customers are escorted out as they leave and thanked; though the Chef came out from behind the counter to join us as well….to give me his business card. But I gotta ask…..when was the last time you saw a Michelin-starred Chef flashing the peace sign in a photo? You gotta love this place! We do!

Suzunari 
7-9 Arakicho, Shinjuku-ku
Tokyo