Travel – Page 77

Where in the world are we part trois

June 3, 2015 mmm-yoso Bordeaux, Dordogne, France, France, French Restaurants, Travel

So, we're in the stretch run of our trip. Leaving for the city where everything started in the morning. The last week has been fun.

We've met some of the nicest, most decent, straight forward folks….honest to a fault.

And of course drank some great wine……and had some fantastic cheese.

We also saw some of the most beautiful countryside. Breathtaking………

And even got to experience a bit of pre-history as well.

It was good to know that I was still competent with a stick shift.

Some of the places look like sets taken straight out of some movie.

And, as alway, there was food. The foie gras and duck was still flowing, though now we had moved on to "lighter" fare.

Though on one evening, I saw something on the menu I couldn't resist trying.

So, did I like it? Well, you'll have to wait for the post to find out.

We've still got a few nights before we head home. We'll surely miss being out and about.

We'll try to make the best of things.

Thanks as always for reading!

Where in the world are we part 2

May 28, 2015 mmm-yoso Basque Country - Spain and France, Bilbao, Spain, San Sebastian, Spain, Spanish Restaurants and Cuisine, Travel

Can you believe we're almost two-thirds into our trip? Time is flying by. Anyway, we haven't ever eaten as well in recent memory. Three cities in two nations and the home to a proud people, who eat quite well.

On our first stop we did two huge tasting menu dinners. Amazing.

What could possibly be my favorite piece of artwork in the world. I just couldn't pass it without taking a photo.

Here's one of my favorite…..if a bit spooky photos.

We did a day trip to a town with a famous tree.

Which was the site of a tremendous devastating bombing which inspired this painting.

Next stop is a must for the food pilgrim.

At this point, I started wondering how long it would be before the Missus hit the Foie Gras wall.

Amazingly, it hasn't happened yet.

Last stop was another wonderful seaside town.

Where we had a comforting and delicious dinner.

We headed into the sunset happy with full bellies.

Where in the world are we part 1

May 22, 2015 mmm-yoso Barcelona, Madrid, Spain, Spanish Restaurants and Cuisine, Travel

Yep, it's that time again. A couple of weeks ago, one of my coworkers noticed I was getting a bit grumpy. He told me, "I think it's time for another nice long trip, right?" And he was so right…..

Anyway, we're having a great time at our first two stops. The sights are amazing.

And things go long into the evening…..well, morning.

The food ain't too shabby either.

As you can tell. We're eating well.

We're headed to our next stop tomorrow. It's been a long couple of days with tons of walking but I'm having blast. Folks are pretty relaxed and we had a marvelous dinner at I believe a fast rising restaurant here.

As always, I leave you in the capable hands of Cathy. Here are a couple more photos for your troubles.

Thanks for reading!

Rome: Back to Trattoria da Danilo

May 9, 2015 mmm-yoso Italian Restaurants, Italy, Rome, Travel

As we often do during our trips; we decided to hang around where we were staying during our last evening in Rome.

In our earlier walks in the area, we noticed the ancient city walls right down the street.

We followed the street and ended up at the Arcibasilica Papale di San Giovanni in Laterano, one of the Four Major Basilicas of Rome.

You basically can't walk a single block without running into something historic in Rome.

We headed back to the room to freshen up.

So where were we headed for dinner?

Because of all the Chinese businesses in the area, the Missus walked into the Chinese Market and asked the manager if there was any "great" Chinese food around. His Answer? "Ummm, they are all just about the same." So we decided on going back to the place we we started this little journey at; Da Danilo.

This time however, we'd not be strong-armed into getting all the antipasto. Even though the owner kept staring daggers at us during our stay. No, we enjoyed a nice Malvasia Bianca and the really enjoyed the main reason for returning; the Carbonara with truffle.

I'm willing to put up with the "typical Roman service" (so says Max), the pushy owner…just for this. The perfectly prepared pasta, the creamy-tongue coating sauce….the shaved truffle.

The rather bland orecchiette da danilo……

And the nice, but not outstanding braised oxtails…..

Would not be reasons to return. But that carbonara….that's a "Desert Island Dish".

Trattoria da Danilo
Via Petrarca 13
Rome, Italy

And so we ended our time in Rome. Where it seems history was made on every corner.

And while the Missus wants to return to Rome; it's not high on my list. But tempt me with that Carbonara again and I might give in.

Thanks for reading!

Rome: Esquilino Market, Trastevere,and Ai Tre Scalini

May 8, 2015 mmm-yoso Italian Restaurants, Italy, Markets & Grocers, Pubs and Pub Grub, Rome, Travel

We had eaten well the night before and slept even better. The normal 5am wake up was missed and we slept in a bit.

Having your morning espresso is a good time to people watch. You gotta admit, some of these folks sure have their own…well…style. Like that guy to the right. Notice the matching outfits. Which got me to wondering…was he an accessory for the poodle, or was the poodle….well, you get the point, right?

Our first stop this morning was nearby; Esquilino Market. The area has quite an international flavor…there were quite a few Chinese businesses and we heard Mandarin being spoken from our window every evening.

There's quite a variety available.

It was a nice break.

From this point on, we past those familiar places.

From the Victor Emmanuel Monument we headed left and came upon the Teatro di Marcello, the Theatre of Marcellus. Completed in 13 B.C., it was the largest theatre in Ancient Rome.

I like how the place looked and later found out that the upper floors of the theatre have been converted to apartments. Pretty cool, huh? How'd you like to live in and above such an historic structure?

The Missus decided that we'd be visiting the district of Trastevere right across the Tiber River.

Trastevere and the lovely colors and lovely cobbled street turned out to be my favorite area in Rome.

I loved the lanes, the folks walking the alleyways. There seemed to be much more daily life going on here. Clothes hanging from windows, folks going on with their daily routines.

The place really has character and charm.

One turn, and suddenly we were in front of Santa Cecilia, dedicated to Saint Cecilia. The church is supposedly built upon the location of her house.

There are quite a few artifacts and artwork in the church. But it is far from being gaudy…the lines clean.

An interesting note about Saint Cecilia. She was martyred between 176 and 180 A.D. Her body was exhumed in 1599 and displayed no signs of decay! She is the first Saint whose body was found to be incorrupt.

Even though there were quite a tourists, you turn a corner and find a little alleyway that you'll have all to yourself.

There you come across little treasures like this little bakery. Which we later found out was named Biscottificio Innocenti, a very well known and regarded cookie/biscuit shop.

The Missus bought a couple and really enjoyed them.

Biscottificio Innocenti
Via della Luce 21
Rome, Italy

While headed to Piazza de Santa Maria, we came across this gelato shop.

The Hazelnut Gelato I had from here was my favorite of all the gelato I tried in Rome.

Fior di Luna
Via della Lungaretta 96
Rome, Italy

Of course having this refreshing gelato on the fountain steps of atmospheric Piazza di Santa Maria might have something to do with that opinion.

If Trastevere were a living organism, Piazza di Santa Maria would be its heart.

And the Basilica of Santa Maria, one of the oldest churches in Rome stands over the piazza.

I loved the artwork of Cavallini in the apse which dates back to 1291.

By now we were getting a bit hungry, so we decided to head on back.

As we headed back toward Termini Station, I noticed the beautiful Ivy hanging on over Via Panisperna in the Monti neighborhood. Taking a look to the right, I noticed the name of a place I'd read about; Ai Tre Scalini. What luck. We were getting pretty hungry.

Basically a wine/beer bar, the place was doing some major business.

Folks seemed to be having a great time and the staff here were very friendly and helpful.

We each had a glass of wine and started in on the menu.

Knowing that we'd be having the pretty rich and hearty Roman fare for dinner, we decided on getting some charcuterie and cheese. Starting with the Salsicce al Tartufo – truffle sausage.

Which was nicely scented with truffle.

We also got the Misto Salumi e Formaggi, a huge charcuterie and cheese plate.

A nice lovely lunch.

Ai Tre Scalini
Via Panisperna 251
Rome Italy

As we walked back to our room, I noticed I'd reached the point where I really started noticing things.

Soon enough, routines would start setting in. And we might even make an acquaintance or two…..

Yes, it was time for us to head out to our next stop. But not before dinner………

Rome: Trattoria Monti

May 7, 2015 mmm-yoso Italian Restaurants, Italy, Rome, Travel

We arrived back in Rome and got on the Leonardo Express to Termini Station. Like I mentioned before, that this short leg is a total joy…super easy and relatively quick.

Getting back to the place we were staying at near Termini Station; B&B Civico 31, we were greeted by one of the owners, Max, with a "welcome home". Max is a great guy, he did it all. We got back and asked where the nearest laundry was. His response, "you need something washed? Give it to me; I'll have it done….." Which he did. At no charge! Whenever I mentioned a neighborhood place; he's ask if we wanted to make reservations….which he would do! Amazing.

The room we stayed in….on both legs of our trip were comfortable. The décor features vintage Italian movie posters…which I found kind of neat.

We had our general directions fairly straight and were now finding different ways to get to where we wanted to be.

The day had started out sunny, but that changed on a dime as rows of clouds would pass over with scattered showers.

So the Missus decided that we should head up to the Capitoline Museums, up Capitoline Hill. This is where it is claimed the first museum in the world was open to the public in 1734.

You know you've finally made it to the top when you see the Statue of Marcus Aurelius. You've reached Piazza del Campigdoglio.

This statue is actually a replica. The original stands within the museum.

It was a great way to spend an early afternoon.

We managed to dodge the passing showers and spent the rest of the day wandering around.

By dinner time, we're talking 8pm, still on the early side, I was famished. Max had made reservations at a rather close, highly regarded Trattoria. Apparently, he went to school with one of the owners, so getting us a table, especially "early" at 8pm was no problem.

You will find Trattoria Monti mentioned everywhere. The cuisine is based on the family's region of origin, Le Marche. The service was the friendliest and warmest we had during our entire time in Rome. There's a certain somewhat jaded attitude we perceived in Rome….what Max calls "typical Roman service". And I can certainly understand how tiring it can get based on questions we heard tourists asking, "what is truffle?" "Why don't you have gluten free pasta?" What is truffle? Yikes….. the folks at Monti just took it in stride, smiled, and laughed with the customers. They took the time to explain the food of the region to folks to help them try to understand.

One of the items "to get" here are the sformatini; called "flan" on the menu. Sort of like a savory bechamel - egg based custard. We got both the radicchio and the red onion versions. Both came with a nice, thick, cheese sauce, which didn't detract from the flavor of the "flan".

While both were good; it was the savory-sweetness and the texture of the caramelized onions in the red onion version that put it at the top of our "best things we had in Rome" list.

Another signature dish of Trattoria Monti is the Tortello. Basically a large stuffed with ricotta and egg yolk; I was a bit disappointed with this one. While I enjoyed the sauce; it had a nice balance of acid-tartness-sweetness-herbaceous flavors, with a nice texture and the ricotta added a mild salt and milky component….the egg yolk was hard and overdone. Knowing how much I love a runny yolk; which I understand this should be (though not overly so). I felt the dish was incomplete.

The Missus ordered Roast Suckling Pig with Baby Potatoes.

And while the suckling pig was just ok; a bit on the dry side, the skin more rubbery than crisp. Those potatoes were very good; almost buttery….the Missus asked how they made the potatoes….the response? "You come tomorrow at three o'clock and we show you!" Classic…..

I got the Fried Lamb Brains with Fried Zucchini.

I'm not the biggest fan of organ meats….well, check that. There are certain organ meats and preparations I don't care for. Sweetbread and brains, so long they aren't too rich and overpowering aren't one of them. I liked the richness of these. The Missus thought the flavor edged on the "metallic/iodine" side and didn't care for them. The fry job was perfect….not too hard as we found in other places in Rome.

We enjoyed our meal at Trattoria Monti. We found the staff here to be friendly, the food good, and we'd gladly return. The prices were also quite good.

Trattoria Monti
Via di San Vito 13
Rome, Italy

Malta: The Best Tuna Sandwich, Tarxien Temples, Hal Saflieni Hypogeum, and Who is Joe Frendo?

May 2, 2015 mmm-yoso American/New American Restaurants, Malta, Maltese Food and Restaurants, Pizza, Sandwiches, Travel

We arrived back in Valletta nice and early. I had quite a bit planned for our last full day.

Unfortunately, the apartment we really enjoyed staying in wasn't available for this night, so we were staying in the Osborne Hotel which was on the opposite side of the peninsula.

We dropped our bags off and started on our way.

The first item was to get some espresso for the Missus and something for me to eat.

We saw this little shop along the way.

The little place was full…of locals……having coffee, reading the paper, talking about…well, I dunno. We entered and they quickly made some room for us.

While the Missus was having Her espresso; with a Diet Kinnie chaser, I saw something. Along the counter, there seemed to be makings for sandwiches. A couple of guys came in to pick up sandwiches while we were having our drinks. I couldn't help it. I just had to find out what this big seller was…..tuna sandwiches. I was raised on tuna sandwiches, but truly believe there's only one brand of canned tuna that shall pass these lips. Us old timers from Hawaii have some major brand loyalty. I had my doubts, I really wasn't thrilled with the version I had earlier in Valletta. But nothing ventured, nothing gained. And this was a major win.

It didn't look very inspiring. But man, this was good. The bread….what's with the bread in Malta (I'd learn soon)? It was crusty, but not too hard, nor chewy. The tuna wasn't the greatest, but it was the sum of the parts which made this fantastic. In perfect proportion; ripe, tasty,tomatoes rubbed on the bread, briny olives, I tasted mint (!), which tasted so good, boiled eggs, lots of black pepper, red onion for that touch of pungent flavor.

I wish I knew the name of this place. We returned for some espresso on the way out of Malta…but duh, I forgot to get the name of the place!

We caught the bus, and with some cryptic instructions got off in Paola. We walked to Tarxien, it was hard to know where Paola ended and Tarxien began….it seems that the borders of these small villages just blend into one another.

We arrived at our destination. There was a graveyard and church next door.

For some reason, the Missus was taken with the tranquil environment and decided just to lie down on one of the benches and listen to music.

I walked on over to the Tarxien Temples next door.

Discovered by some farmers plowing a field a field in 1914. This complex of temples, dating back to 3150 B.C. this site was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1980.

The excavations have indicated that the site was used extensively for rituals.

06082013 2446

It was a fascinating visit. The island of Malta has long been inhabited, some estimate all the way back to 5200 BC.

Leaving the site, I got the Missus who was just having a great old time listening to music, staring at the tree and the statue of the Virgin Mary.

It was time to head back to Paolo and our destination.

But first, we got distracted by this little shop on a side street that was doing some nice business. Cars kept stopping, folks running out; sometimes holding up traffic, to go in and grab…well, who knows what.

This is the spinach-olive, with a touch of ricotta version.

Frankly, I preferred what I had before to this. Though it was quite hearty and stuffed.

And so, we searched for our destination. Which we found with this discreet sign.

When I knew we were going to Malta; one of the first things I did was make reservation for Hal Saflieni Hypogeum. Discovered by workers digging for a cistern in 1902, the story of its revelation is quite amazing. Due to the damage done by carbon dioxide exhaled by visitors, only 60 visitors are allowed a day (it's actually closed right now while a new environmental management system is put in place).

Of course, photos aren't allowed; but you can see some here. Let me just say, at least for us, it was an amazing experience.

Making it back to Valletta, the Missus wanted Her Quinoa Salad from Piadina Caffe. So we headed over. This time I had the prosciutto with provolone, which was light and refreshing.

And I got a chance to read the local paper.

After a light snack it was finally time when we could check in. Along the way to the hotel we saw this doorway.

Which is how we ended up in the lair of Joe Frendo.

Who is Joe Frendo? I'm still not sure. I looked down those stairs and saw some bottled water, which is just what we needed and wanted at that moment.

We had somehow ended up in the shop of a Maltese bread maker. Huge wood burning oven going…..I was told; "go take a look….the best bread in Malta is here."

I looked at the bread which looked familiar. So I asked, and my question was answered with, "yes, Il-Horza, that is our bread."

And so we thought, "why not order a pizza?"

Having ordered our dinner, we got back to the hotel; checked in, and freshened up.

Walking past the Grandmaster's Palace, we noticed a demonstration happening. It was for women's rights. We saw a gentleman walk out to talk to folks. I asked who this was and was told, "well….it's the Prime Minister of course." The Prime Minister!

It was soon time to pick up dinner, so we retuned to Joe Frendo's Bakery. Walking down the stars we saw Joe's family having dinner at a table in an adjacent area and Joe at work on our pizza.

We loved this place. So the Missus asked Joe Frendo as simple question; "when did you start making bread" which turned into an 45 minute monologue of Joe Frendo's life….punctuated with many a "mey-lah". Which I still don't understand. It was an amazingly funny slice of life. Along with the pizza, we decided to get a bottle of wine, but requested that they open the bottle. At which time Joe walked over to a table, pulled out the corkscrew which was being used to level the table out and opened our bottle. Only in Malta!

We got the "Maltese Pizza"("mey-lah")and Joe Frendo gave us a couple of really good rolls.

The pizza…the crust was quite nice….had artichoke hearts, olives, and a nice tangy tomato sauce.

Which is what we had….watching the roof tops of Valletta.As dusk approached I took this photo.

And waking right before the sun rose, I took another.

Like most places, Malta had been much more than what we had expected……

Malta: Marsaxlokk Market Day

May 1, 2015 mmm-yoso Malta, Maltese Food and Restaurants, Markets & Grocers, Travel

The main reason we decided on an over-night detour in Marsaxlokk was to check out the Sunday Market, known simply as the Marsaxlokk Market. The market was originally a Sunday fish market, but as tourists have found it over the years, it has expanded quite a bit.

We actually hit the place up when it first opened so there weren't as many tourists.

There's literally everything under the sun for sale here.

And there were quite a few folks hitting the place early to stock up on stuff.

Beyond all of this, the place is still a fish market at heart.

When the crowds started arriving, we decided to check out the side streets.

I've already posted on lunch, so I'll skip on over to the Missus getting some dessert.

And kind of just hung out watching the crowds like this little guy……

After which the time arrived for our afternoon nap.

After awakening, we decided to check some of the other side streets and found a little mini-mart. This is where I found Fizzee….I enjoyed this sugar free, almond drink, which was indeed quite "fizzy". It was quite refreshing. The Missus? Well, She still preferred Her Diet Kinnie.

I also came across some lovely looking Pastizzi. Even though I wasn't exactly thrilled the last time I had one. This was pretty good.

The pastry was flaky and rather light and the filling….the traditional mushy peas were actually nicely seasoned.

It turned out to be a pretty nice snack. Second time a charm I guess.

By this time, the market was closing down and Marsaxlokk was turning back into that idyllic fishing village.

It was time to find a bench and relax……

We found that Kinnie bottles are great for a game of fetch.

It was such a pretty afternoon.

And the lovely colors just heightened the experience. And those eyes……

We decided on something small for dinner. We knew it was time to head back to Valletta.

The next morning, we woke early and had a light breakfast. We found the bus stop back to Valletta was basically a half block away.

We had a busy day planned, so it was time to get a move on.

Thanks for reading!

Malta: Marsaxlokk Harbor, Dinner and Lunch at T’anna Mari Under Their Previous Ownership

April 30, 2015 mmm-yoso Malta, Maltese Food and Restaurants, Travel

There was something very "chill" about Marsaxlokk. The little fishing village made Valletta seem like a bustling city. The top sight in this fishing village is without a doubt the bay which is a natural harbor. Three quarters of Malta's fishing fleet is located in this harbor, which was also where the Turkish fleet was station during the great siege of 1565.

In spite of the rather unsightly power plant located across the harbor, it is still quite stunning.

After taking a nice stroll, we took a short nap. When we awoke, in late afternoon, all of the day-trippers were gone, and it was like we had the place to ourselves.

A nice light breeze blowing, the clouds rolling in, we seemed light-years away from the hustle and bustle of Rome.

Looking closely, you might notice something quite interesting about the brightly colored "Luzzi", the traditional Maltese Fishing Boats.

It's in the eyes……

These boats in design and color is said to date back to the Phoenicians and the "eyes of Osiris" are painted on them to watch over and protect the fishermen while at sea.

One thing you quickly notice about Marsaxlokk are the lack of resorts, hotels, and that sort of thing crowding up the boardwalk. Rather, there are many traditional buildings, which add character to the locale.

Looking for a place to eat, we came upon this rather colorful place. Half restaurant, half gift t shop, named T'anna Mari. The menu was fascinating so we stopped by to eat….twice!

We loved the menu, which featured traditional Maltese dishes; stuff I'd never heard of, ingredients that we love. It was a great change of pace from the multitude of seafood places on the waterfront.

Unfortunately, time passes quickly, and changes come just as fast. T'anna Mari is under new ownership and is now a Sicilian Restaurant.

So I'll do the rest mostly in photos with a few names of dishes and such.

This was called L-Platt Malti and featured a collection of traditional Maltese appetizers.

Bigilla – the traditional mashed beans.

Ful – Broadbeans with Garlic.

Tonn Immellah – Brined Tuna.

Zalzett Malti (Maltese Garlic Sausage) and Ġbejna (Goat Cheeses)

Il Fortizza – Stewed Horse.

Qarabaghli mimli – Stuffed Marrows, that would be stuffed squash.

Dessert.

We loved the meal and went back for lunch the next day. Unfortunately, it was like eating at a totally different restaurant. The food was over salted, fishy, dry……

Fenek Moqli – Rabbit in garlic and wine

Aljotta – Fish Soup

Qarnit bit-tewm – Octopus in garlic and herbs.

When getting ready to write this; I discovered that the place had been sold. That's too bad……the menu was interesting and it seemed like they were really trying to make a go of it. We did appreciate how the menu broadened our horizons with regards to Maltese food. I hope the nice husband and wife team that ran this place are doing well.

Malta: Marsaxlokk and lunch at Ir-Rizzu Restaurant

April 25, 2015 mmm-yoso Malta, Maltese Food and Restaurants, Seafood, Travel

While planning our time in Malta, I thought a side trip to the fishing village of Marsaxlokk. The village of 3500 is well known for their Sunday Market, so I thought instead of heading here for a day excursion, why not spend two nights in a sleepy fishing village? It seemed like a nice way to break up our stay on the island. So we took our time; had a morning espresso and spent most of the morning walking around Valletta.

At about 10 we caught our bus right outside the gates of Valletta. 40 minutes later we were getting off our bus in Marsaxlokk. It was overcast and rainy on this morning and walking along the waterfront, we had no idea where our hotel was……

So we stopped at one of the cafes and asked. As is the norm with places like this; the folks were really nice and the gentleman actually walked us to the hotel, which was tucked away on a side street near the end of the harbor close to the transition to an industrial area.

Our room was ready and waiting for us so we got an early check in, freshened up, then headed off to lunch. It was drizzling off and on, so I decided on just going to one of the most well known seafood restaurants in the village; Ir Rizzu.

As it was noon, the place had just opened.

The dining area is quite large….the service fine, mostly young kids, so it was kind of well, like a place where young kids are serving you……kind of uneven, though they did try.

Things started off with a gratis appetizer. I recognized the "bigilla", basically mashed beans….doesn't it look like something you'd get at a Mexican Restaurant? I did like the "ful-bit-tewm", the white beans with garlic.

There's something about the bread on Malta that I really like. This wasn't as yeasty, nor did it have the wonderful texture of what we had the night before at Il Horza, but we still enjoyed it.

We also went with a bottle of a local white from Pjazza Regina winery. A combination of three grapes, it was nice, light, refreshing, and went relatively well with the seafood.

As is the norm for us; we went with a meal of appetizers; starting with the classic Maltese Fish Soup; Aljotta.

This was like a very fishy bouillabaisse and not my favorite thing in the world. Salty and not enough acid to take the edge off for me.

The Octopus was a workman-like effort.

A bit tougher than I prefer, but the flavors were nice….great salt-herbs.

The mussels were quite large, though still moist. They hadn't cooked it to death.

Simple was probably the prudent thing to do with this. Not bad.

The best item were the "Mediterranean King Prawns". Again, nice and simple, cooked to perfection.

Wonderful flavor, nice and sweet, the Missus loved those heads!

Overall, this was a decent meal. Nothing fancy by any means, but simple, and a nice way to start our stay in Marsaxlokk.

Ir-Rizzu Restaurant
Marsaxlokk, Malta

It was time to start exploring……