Travel – Page 87

Lisbon Day 1: Up to Chiado & Bairro Alto, dinner at…..Super Mario? And other stuffs…..

June 20, 2013 mmm-yoso Lisbon, Portugal, Portuguese Food, Travel

I felt so satisfied after that wonderful bifana and a beer, that I didn't even complain when the Missus decided that we hadn't done enough walking for the day. She had decided that we needed to get on up to Chiado and Bairro Alto, Lisbon's bohemian and nightlife district. Luckily, the Missus didn't insist on climbing up that hill and we just walked past Rossio Station and the Avenida Palace Hotels…..

And catch a ride on the funicular, the Elevador da Gloria, using our Viva Viagem Card.

Which I was told has been snaking up the hill linking Baixa with Bairro Alto since 1885. A bunch of other tourists jumped on, the guy asking me "where is this going?" I told him, "up the hill….." He smiled and told me, "I really don't know where this is going, but it looks like fun…."

To the right of the funicular stop is the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcantara. One word I learned rather quickly was "miradouro" which meant viewpoint. Anytime we saw that word, we followed the signs….. usually ending in a wonderful sight like this.

This little park/garden was a nice place to check out the views of the city. It also helped to get us a little more oriented with our surroundings.

The narrow and rather congested streets down to Chiado are lined with Churches(of course), boutiques, and theatre's. This seems to be the place where the hip hang out.

At the end of Rua Garrett is a multi-floor mall. You exit head to the Sportszone and go downstairs to exit back in Baixa (thanks Rick Steves!). We did make a stop at H&M. We travel light. I personally had less than 6 kilos of clothes and shoes. My strategy is to pack light and if necessary, buy a jacket or something. Since there were Zara and H&M stores everywhere and it was in the 40's at night, I bought a hoodie for 10euros and the Missus a sweater for about the same price. We were set for the rest of the trip. We dropped by Pingo Doce and bought water….we were set.

We had booked our room at Lisbon Short Stay Apartments, which was basically a conversion. The room was decently sized with a kitchenette and there was even a washer and dryer on our floor. However, the place was rather dark and a bit funky, with kind of an industrial feel.

The staff was nice, but really couldn't provide a whole lot of information nor recommendations. Though they did provide a tiny map that included the metro routes which we kept the entire trip. It was time for dinner…….

There are a couple of things you need to know about eating in Lisbon and Portugal in general; folks don't eat until at least 730pm. You will be enticed by a bunch of "appetizers/bread/olives" put out in front of you. Note that these are not free, you will charged for whatever you touch; feel free to put them to the side and not eat. You won't be charged…we found that many places will ask if you want these and take them away if you tell them no. There are often two portion sizes offered on menus; dose and meia dose. We found that meia dose, literally a "half order" is usually enough to feed one as an entree.

We had dinner reservations for the next two evenings, so one this night we just wanted something simple and easy. We headed back up to Chiado, past some really touristy looking places, up stairs and a mildly steep climb. In a little alley on a side street we found a place I read about on Chowhound called Super Mario….really, it was named Super Mario.

Into that doorway past the little sign was a simple tiled restaurant.

Tables were simply covered with paper……this was just a nice and homey place.

As we peeked into the door, we saw three gentlemen having beers and pub grub. We weren't sure if they were "really" open, but the guys waved us in and pointed to a table and called out to the back. They also gave us bread with slices of pork on them….sharing their food with us! I really liked the folks in Portugal! We later offered to buy them a round, but they refused, telling our Server that they had to head home. We had lucked out….it started pouring right when we sat down.

We started off with a bottle of Vinho Verde….the verde doesn't really mean "green" in terms of color….it refers more to how "young" the wine is. This was light, slightly fizzy, and more sweet than dry.

The food at Super Mario can be best described by the locals who told us, "very typico……"

The Missus wanted to try Caldo Verde, a simple, but hearty soup thickened by potato, containing thin slices of kale.

For my first sit down meal in Portugal, it just seemed right that I had bacalhau. I hadn't had anything made with salt cod since I was a teenager. So I went with the Bacalhau Frito, fried bacalhau.

Nothing fancy, perfectly decent, salty, but not overly so, perhaps a bit too many bones for me. The rice….well, I never had decent rice in any dish in Portugal, that's just the way things went.

This was sardinhas (sardine) season, so the Missus would get that whenever She could. It looked fresh here.

The sardines were fresh, very nice….but man, those potatoes….in fact all the potatoes in Portugal taste, well, like really good potatoes…..possibly the best other than what we had in Peru.

We had killed the first bottle of Vinho Verde, with no problems, nor affects, so we ordered a second.

About this time a Korean woman who looked to be in her 30's entered the restaurant….this was pretty much a first for us. We always see Korean tourists traveling in tours or packs. This was the first time I saw one traveling solo. We shared a glass of wine with her. It just seemed like the right thing to do. She was very nice and indeed travelling solo. She told us, "I like to travel and don't have friends…." I'm sure she didn't mean literally. She was from Seoul and travelled all over Europe because, "I like to drink…." then telling us about how good Porto was. She had dinner at Super Mario's the night before and enjoyed it so much she decided to return.

While the food was nothing to write home about, we enjoyed our dinner at Super Mario. The service was nice, so was the vinho verde, and the Missus enjoyed he caldo verde. It was relaxed, the guys having drinks in the place were very warm and hospitable. It was a good first dinner to get things started.

Restaurante Super Mario
Rua do Duque 9
Lisbon, Portugal

There was still fading daylight left when we finished dinner and walked down the hill. Lisbon seemed very safe, so we strolled around a bit, taking in a bit more……

We found a bakery run by Chinese and got some Pastel de Nata……

The crust was just wrong and the custard was too sweet and eggy. These were the worst of our time in Lisbon.

We headed back to our room, opened the window….. the immediate area was very urban and dark. We watched the street scene below. Folks heading home, dodging the drizzles, then the next wave of folks heading out for the evening.

I'd come to find that Lisbon sleeps and wakes late. I woke to folks laughing and yelling a couple times during the night….the last at 330am. Still, we were exhausted and the sleep did us good! We'd be having another full day tomorrow!

Thanks for reading!

Lisbon Day 1: Orienting ourselves, mucho Pastel de Nata, Ginjinha break, and beautiful bifana from Beira Gare

June 14, 2013 mmm-yoso Lisbon, Portugal, Portuguese Food, Travel

I'm going to try to do a better job in getting these posts done. This means that the posts will probably be rather long and jam-packed, I hope you don't mind…..

So this year we decided on Portugal, Rome, and Malta. Why? I'm not quite sure. Things usually start out as just throwing out a couple of places. We had given thought to heading back to Istanbul and perhaps the Greek Islands again, but in the end decided not to. And based on the recent happenings in Istanbul, we probably made the right decision. It was while having some linguica (Portuguese Sausage), that the Missus came up with Portugal. We also wanted to visit an island. If we had gone to Turkey, I'm pretty sure we would have headed to Cyprus. The previous year we had visited Rhodes and I was fascinated with the story of the Knights of St John, who were driven from Rhodes by the Ottomans, ending up in….you got it, Malta. So Malta it was. The Missus wanted another destination and somehow that ended up being Rome. After that, it was all about planning………

Which is how we ended up getting off our flight in Lisbon. We'd come to find that it's really easy to get around in Lisbon. We bought a Viva Viagem card which covers all matters of public transport. You can charge it up by trip, by day, or do what we did, called "zapping". We loaded 15 Euros on each card and needed to add just 2 Euros added for the rest of our trip. The metro "red line" goes from the airport and intersects with all the other metro lines. We transferred to the green line at Alameda, getting off at the Baixa-Chiado station. I admit to being less than impressed as we walked out of the metro station. There was a ton of construction going on so the sidewalks were all dug up. The thin sidewalks and small worn streets and the aged buildings gave the place a dated urban look and feel. We were staying on Rua de Sapateiros street just a short walk from the metro station. Sine these were short stay apartments, I expected no sign and got none except a call button on a doorway on the rather dark street.

At 930, it was much too early and our room wasn't ready, it wouldn't be so until after 2pm, so we had a rather long day ahead of us.

I wasn't getting a real great vibe from the city. Though things started lifting as we passed a strange looking tower like object one block over. This was the Santa Justa Elevator. We really hadn't noticed it yet, but Lisbon, like Rome is built on 7 hills. The climb up these hills can be rather steep. This elevator, completed in 1901 links the Baixa district with the Bairro Alto district, and provides some great views for folks who decide to take the ride up. Even though you can use the Viva Viagem card to pay for access, we just never went for a ride….too many folks standing in line, plus the Missus would usually rather walk up the damned hill!

My dark, dank(it was drizzling off and on), and gritty opinion of Lisbon totally changed as we walked through the gate at the top of Rua de Sapateiros which opened up to lovely and bright Praca da Rossio (Rossio Square).

With the bronze fountain at one end, crowned with a column with the statue of King Dom Pedro IV, it's a wonderful bit of open space. Strangely, the Missus was most taken with the stone designs on the ground. She read that looking at these designs can actually make you seasick!

Close by was Rossio Station, which we were told was a representation of Neo-Manueline style, popular in the late 19th century.

We really weren't checking out local architecture though. We usually follow a certain pattern when arriving in a new town/city. Find our hotel, stow our luggage, and find water. We were told that there was a outlet of Pingo Doce supermarket close by and we were trying to find it. After walking around in circles for a while, I stopped and asked a young man having a smoke outside the back of a shop. He looked at what I had written, laughed, and displayed his name tag…..it said "Pingo Doce". It was right around the corner….we'd actually walked right past the rather discrete entrance to the market!

While in the market, we decided to have a cafe express (espresso) and a small pick-me-up snack. This would prove to be a rather important event. You see, the snack we had was a Pastel de Nata, a Portuguese Egg Tart.

Ever had an Egg Tart with Dim Sum? Does this look familiar? Portugal, along with Spain once divided up the world. Their reach extended to Macau and it's quite apparent that the Pastel de Nata evolved into the standard issue dim sum egg tart….which by the way, is not a favorite of ours. Thus we really weren't too excited about trying Pastel de Nata…..but damned if this wasn't too bad, even if it was from the counter of a market! The crust was light, crisp, like filo. The filling wasn't too sweet, nor was it too "eggy". It was the perfect foil for the espresso. From this point on, the Missus would make it a point to get Pastel de Nata, until She flamed out.

Energized by caffeine and sugar we headed back across Praca da Rossio to Praca da Figueira.

And up the street to the side. Here there were a couple of charcuterie shops and especially pungent shop.

It was a shop selling that iconic Portuguese ingredient; bacalhau, salt cod. I'd read that there are 365 different recipes using bacalhau, one for each day of the week. I was later told that there are actually exactly 1,095 recipes using bacalhau….one for each meal of the year!

At the top of the street we passed the Church of Sao Domingo, which we visited later on the trip. This area, called Largo de Sao Domingo is the gathering place for immigrants from Portugal's former African colonies.

Also located in the square was a place I just had to try……even though it was 1030 in the morning.

A Ginjinha is a well known "bar", I use the term loosely as it's basically a counter, that sells shot of the sour cherry liqueur called ginjinha. Mildly sweet, with a bit of a burn at the end, you can't leave Lisbon without trying one. I got mine without cherries, the Missus with….it turned out to be a bit strong for Her. But She enjoyed spitting out the cherry pits like everyone seems to do on the sidewalk in front of the place. I've heard that folks start drinking this stuff for breakfast, like at 7 in the morning…..

A Ginjinha
Largo de Sao Domingos 8
Lisbon, Portugal

Fortified, we decided to head on down to the Rio Tejo, the Tagus river. But not before stopping here…….

For what else? Pastel de Nata…..the place was really hopping and just as is typical in Portugal, folks eat and drink standing up.

The Pastel de Nata here was the second best we had on this trip. The crust was light and flaky, the custard not too sweet, but rich. The espresso helped ward off any side effects that could have lingered from the ginjinha.

I'd come to learn that Confeitaria Nacional was once the royal bakery and is still run by the same family since they opened in 1829. We'd end up revisiting again since it was so close to where we were staying.

Confeitaria Nacional
Praca da Figueira 18B
Lisbon, Portugal

We ended up walking down Rua Aurea, "gold street", dodging the passing showers, to Praca do Comercio, the huge open square right across the street from the Tagus.

Unfortunately, the statue of King Jose I and the Arch were both undergoing maintenance and thus covered and surrounded by scaffolding. Regardless, we crossed the street and took some photos of the Tagus.

I was starting to get hungry and had a place in mind. So we headed back up to the Rossio area via the pedestrian only Rua Augusta……

Right across from Rossio Station was a restaurant I'd read about.

There are tables in this rather small restaurant, but the Missus and I walked up to the counter where all the locals were lined up. We'd eat standing up….this just seemed like the right thing to do.

There was just one item that I wanted here and the really friendly guy behind the counter knew exactly what it was…….he smiled and pointed to what the guy next to me was having and said, "you want that!" And he was right…..

He also asked, "beer?"….heck why not? It was noon somewhere in the world, right? Here in Lisbon it's usually Sagres. I did notice that in places like Porto and Sintra, folks preferred Super Bock. Sagres is really light and easy to drink.

What about the bifana? Well, it did seem kind of odd that folks enjoyed their sandwich with yellow mustard, but what the heck. I gotta say, this was simple, yet so good. The meat just ooozed porkiness. It looked tough, but was fairly tender….man the flavor was so good.

The bread was paired nicely with the pork; not too dense, slightly yeasty, but without interfering with the star of the show. The anti-pork Missus even loved this; though the yellow mustard grossed Her out. She preferred the spicy piri-piri sauce, basically a chili oil.

We watched the guy cooking the pork for the bifana on the way out and noticed that it was indeed fried. But it looked like it wasn't fried at a high temp. The next morning we walked by Beira Gare and found out an additional flavoring component; in the pot where the pork was fried up was a huge block of lard……..

Even though we had some pretty good meals in Lisbon; this humble, but super tasty sandwich was my favorite.

Beira Gare
Rua 1 Dezembro 5
Lisbon, Portugal

As we left the restaurant, the Missus told me, "it's time you paid off that pork, let's get going…." Like we hadn't already walked enough!

Postscript: After getting home I saw a rerun of Anthony Bourdain's Lisbon show. I cracked up, during the end of the show he's having a bifana….from Beira Gare….with yellow mustard!

For those who hung in till the end. Thanks for reading!

We’re back!!!

June 9, 2013 mmm-yoso Italy, Lisbon, Malta, Portugal, Rome, Travel

After an almost 24 hour trip, we made it home last night. Tired, but still excited over what we saw and ate, the Missus even more so over the weight I lost…..all that walking.

So while my internal clock gets adjusted and I catch up at work, here's a few clues as to the third country we visited. It was one with a close tie to Rhodes, which we visited last year….I know, I still have to get to those posts.

Though a small country, there's a ton of history here……the kinds of stuff I used to read as a kid. Knights, castles, a walled city, invading Turks!

The narrow streets and hills totally reminded me of San Francisco.

We visited one of the cathedrals in the city. Later that evening as we were passing by, we heard music emanating from the Cathedral.

We peeked in and saw several vocalists and an orchestra rehearsing. Instead of shooing us out, we were welcomed to sit and watch.

The next day we inquired about the concert and were told it was free!

So that evening we attended the performance that had an interesting history. It had only been performed once in the last hundred years! Where else can you attend a concert in a historic, 450 year old cathedral by the national philharmonic and choir for free?

We were especially surprised by the food. We hadn't hear much about this country's cuisine and was pleasantly surprised. Because of it's history, the chef's here seemed less burdened by too much tradition and we had dishes with quinoa and black rice. Still, the traditional and local food was excellent. I was especially surprised by how delicious the Fried Rabbit Liver and Melon salad was.

We also spent a couple of nights in a village where 70% of the country's fishing boats are located.

The colorful traditional blue and yellow fishing boats are still adorned with the "Eyes of Osiris". We found out that this boat design goes back to Phoenician times.

Of course the seafood was excellent.

The traditional items like Horse Stew were excellent as well.

We loved the people here. Much like the folks in Portugal, they are warm and friendly….and some, like the baker who we found down a small flight of stairs tending a 168 year old wood burning stove have large personalities.

We ordered a pizza with traditional ingredients that was very good and got his life story to boot!

All in all, it was a fantastic visit.

Even though the country is small, there's a ton of history. We managed to snag reservations for a UNESCO protected site that allows only 60 visitors a day. It was amazing.

Soon we headed back to busy Rome.

Sadly, Michelin starred Metamorphosi had to cancel our reservations because of some special event. We ended up having a wonderful meal anyway. Here's the fried lamb's brains.

We ended our trip in a town outside of Lisbon. The setting was almost out of a fairy tale, King's, Queen's, castles, and even a palace on top of a hill.

Since it was highly recommended that we take the bus up the mountain, the Missus decided that we should climb walk up.

We had quite a time!

I'll need a couple of days to regroup and recover. So until then, Cathy's still in charge. See you again shortly.

Where in the world were we?

June 2, 2013 mmm-yoso Italy, Rome, Travel

I hope you're enjoying this series of almost real time posts.

We've moved on from Portugal. So where did we go next? Here are some photos that may help.

Think you have an idea?

Well here's a wildcard….

Hmmmm……

Confused? Well let me tell you I was as well.

Ok……. I am trying to throw you a bunch of curveballs.

I think these photos will make it very clear.

Needless to say, we've been eating very well.

We've since moved on, but will be returning here in a few days.

So where are we now? Stay tuned!!!

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Where in the world have we gone?

May 27, 2013 mmm-yoso Portugal, Travel

Yes, we were in Lisbon for my last post. Of course we've moved on to several different locales since then.

First, to a wonderful city, with an historic university, but known for even more than that.

Like the remnants of an ancient aqueduct.

There are even buildings using the arches of the aqueduct as foundations and frames.

There are also Roman ruins.

The entire city is considered a UNESCO Heritage site.

Oh, and there's a "church of bones"

We managed to have some wonderful meals.

Even managing some of the traditional dishes of the region. We loved the food! The Missus loved the town and was sad to leave.

Our next stop was another city known for its university, the most prestigious in Portugal.

Though my calves were screaming for mercy after walking up and down the hills, I thought the city was beautiful.

We ended up eating at the same, unique hole-in-the-wall restaurant twice for dinner. Each night folks eating there told us this was cozinha typico for the region.

I was also able to add to my "sandwich collection"

We're currently in the Missus' favorite city so far. Folks here are down to earth, friendly, and very nice. Due to all the wonderful tips from the folks who do the apartment rental, we've had a wonderful time in this city known for its wine, though I must say the views are spectacular.

Like everywhere else, there's history everywhere around us.

Along with being able to add yet another sandwich……

This one a monstrosity of several meats, coated with cheese, and drenched in a tomato sauce.

That aside….well, I liked it, but the Missus didn't, we've really eaten well here.

We were advised to head out of the city center area today since it was Sunday and most places are closed. We had a wonderful and inexpensive lunch at an area where the fish harder is.

And finally got to try a dish from my "bucket list" and I can't wait to have it again.

I wish you all could be here……

So what's next?

Well, by the time you read this, we'll hopefully be on our next leg of our trip. Leaving Portugal is kind of bittersweet for us as we've really taken to the people and food here.

Time willing, I'll try to do a post when we get there.

Thanks for reading.

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Istanbul: Our favorite restaurant – Gaziantep Sahre

May 13, 2013 mmm-yoso Chicken Wings, Istanbul, Travel, Turkey, Turkish Food

It really did seem like we've spent a good deal of time in Istanbul. In actuality, I'm thinking maybe three weeks max. On our last couple of short stays we started getting away from Sultanahmet and taking the metro to places like Osmanbey and Sisli, home of the Nisantasi Shopping Mall. On the top floor you can walk out onto a small patio and take a photo like this one….though the heights kinda got to me rather quickly.

This is the hip and modern Istanbul, looking all the world like just about any major city in the world…….including the traffic.

Having at least a rudimentary familiarity with a city is nice as it opens up other options for shopping and dining.

We'd kind of hit the wall with eating in Istanbul. All of the nice young men in the hotel, except one, who really knew his stuff, would recommend tourist type places. Like the fish restaurants that line the touristy Kumkapi Fish Market area.

Hawker's try to lure you in….but they lose us as soon as they mentioned the "culture show"……

Across the street is the bright, mega-restaurant district of Kumkapi, which seemed a bit too much for us.

All of these type of restaurant/entertainment districts have a certain look and feel to them. The bright lights, the loud music, the free flowing alcohol. Nothing against this, but we wanted something a bit more low-keyed.

And we found just the place. It was a bit of a walk, about 3 kilometers from our hotel. But we had just walked past Kumkapi into the area known as Yenikapi. Right past a massive Korean Restaurant on Kennedy Caddesi we saw this place that looked full of locals.

We walked on up the stairs and noticed that even though the restaurant dining area was pretty large, everyone was eating on the patio. All the customers were male when we arrived, though more couples started coming in a bit later on. More importantly, everyone seemed to know the servers…..like they were regulars, just what we were looking for.

When the men started coming around with trays….we knew we had found a Meyhane.

Though I'm thinking that there must be an amount of tourist business as there's an English translation of the menu.

Anyway, we were met with sort of an amused attitude. There was one Server, a really nice guy, who spoke passable English and I think he found us a bit interesting as we took to the menu like wolves…..

All the usual suspects were present.

He seemed even more amused that I actually knew the names of some of the dishes, like Acili Ezme….

Which was really good, chunky, decent spice, slight pungency…..

And the delicious shaksuka.

All of which was made for bread….we were provided with two different variations.

The Missus just loved this salad, which I thought was a version of Coban Salatsi, but the gentleman said no….so we asked what it's called. He didn't quite know what to call it. So what to do? We he broke out his iPhone and translated it to English……"chopped salad?!?" We just cracked up. I still think it's a version of Coban Salatasi. Whatever the name, it's delicious!

There was one item we saw on every table, so I just had to try it out. The Missus hesitated at first, but I just had ot have it. The Server brought us a piece to try and we were sold.

This is called Çiğ köfte. In this case it's minced raw lamb combined with bulghar, herbs, and spices. Wrapped in the lettuce leaf with a mint leaf it is pure heaven. Refreshing, a bit lamby, herbaceous, and now one of my favorite things!

As we were polishing things off, our Server came by and dropped this off for us, saying "we have extra…."

This was a really tasty lahmacun. Nice crisp bread topped with a very tasty mixture of lamb and spices. Have you noticed the lack of Sultan posts in the last year or so? It's mainly because the Missus has had the food here…….

The next day we headed off to Rhodes and Symi, but we hadn't forgotten Sahre. When we returned to Istanbul, we had one full day before heading home. That's when we visited Osmanbey. When the inevitable lunch question arose, the Missus asked to eat at Sahre. That would be quite a hike, so we decided on a cab…..we weren't sure on how we'd communicate the instructions correctly to the driver, until the Missus found a package of sugar from the restaurant in Her bag.

It took a while with Istanbul traffic, but we finally arrived poised for lunch.

One thing we noticed as we walked up the stairs was that a makeshift table was set-up in the downstairs parking area. A family of five was eating there. The Missus quickly noticed that one of the older gentleman was in a wheelchair. I guess this is the handicap section set-up.

We were a bit disappointed to find that Çiğ köfte was not served for lunch! The Missus hadn't stopped talking about it for the week we were in Rhodes. Anyway, Her other favorites where still available. Our favorite Server wasn't working and it's not the typical meyhane set-up for lunch, so I just pointed to the menu, which was supplemented with a trip to the back to select what we wanted.

We also ordered some içli köfte.

This was a decent version. The exterior was nice and crisp. The filling, a mixture of minced lamb, bulghur, and spices was adequately flavored.

Think of this as being like a croquette or kibbeh. The best thing was the texture.

I also saw chicken wings on the menu. I really enjoyed the version at Mehmet Kebab, so why not try it here as well?

This were nicely grilled. For some reason, I've really taken to the combination of spices used for wings here. Smokey, salty, with a mild spice.

We both tried the grilled green peppers. Most regions in Turkey don't care for really spicy food. I had tried the peppers at Can Can Pide in Antalya which were pretty darn hot. But this was Istanbul, folks don't like things too hot here, so I took a bite….yikes! Man, this had some pretty good heat. That's when we noticed that all the plates on the tables around us still had their peppers intact.

It ended up being a nice lunch. We had dinner reservation later that evening at Mimolett Restaurant, a restaurant that is trying hard for a Michelin star, but we both had out hearts set on having that Çiğ köfte one more time. So we ended up cancelling when we got back to our hotel.

It was our last evening in Istanbul for this trip and we took our time walking the 3 kilometers to the restaurant.

Still we arrived at Sahre a bit early. A few minutes later "our" Server arrived, looking quite amused to see us. We asked about the Çiğ köfte, and he told us, "no, until 7….."

But we were here and determined to get what we had come here twice in one day for…… It was our last night in Turkey and this was a Meyhane, so I decided to get a couple of Efes.

Meanwhile, we noticed storm clouds coming in from the Mamaris. We, like everyone else were seated on the patio, but were safe since we had the awning above us. Soon enough raindrops started to fall and the most amazing drill was initiated. Like a well oiled machine, all the tables were moved from this configuration….

To this….in a matter of minutes……

We had started dinner……

Of course our Server knew the Missus was after one thing. So a few minutes into our meal, he told the Missus "come" and took Her into the kitchen of the restaurant and the station where the Çiğ köfte was being prepared. He then grabbed one for the Missus to have on the way back to our table!

Of course we got the first plate when it finally came out of the kitchen.

It was just as good as our previous visit.

For some reason, we really took to this place. We'll be back the next time we're in Istanbul.

Gaziantep Sahre Restaurant
Kennedy Caddesi No 130 Sahilyolu Yenikapi, Istanbul

We walked through all the restaurants in Kumkapi, then back to Vericeriler Caddesi which turned into Divan Yolu Caddesi.

We mainly wanted that one last view of the Blue Mosque at night.

As the final call to prayer started, I looked out at that same quiet street in front of the Hotel Djem. There's something about Istanbul that I love….that had me visiting here twice in two years. I'm not sure what it is, but it's just a matter of time before I return.

Thanks for reading!

This post is dedicated to "Senor" who got me to finally take the time to write this post. I hope you have a great time in Turkey!

Sidi Bou Said/La Marsa (Tunisia): A quick morning walk through Sidi Bou Said, a return to La Marsa and Le Golfe

May 10, 2013 mmm-yoso Sidi Bou Said/La Marsa, Travel, Tunisia, Tunisian Food

I've mentioned how beautiful Sidi Bou Said was before, that beauty even shines through the crowds walking its cobble stoned streets.

Still, we really enjoyed the still, quiet mornings when we didn't have to "wrassle" our way through the crowds.

Perhaps the vibrant energy that the crowds bring adds it's own color and energy to the mix, but in the quiet moments you're allowed the time to just stand and enjoy the view wrapped in your own little bubble.

Still, no matter how wonderful the view, we found ourselves on the TGM headed back to La Marsa. It was no different on this morning.

There's something about the Mediterranean brightness of La Marsa, of the whitewashed buildings and the palm tree lined road that has such a retro feel for me.

And though there were tourists, there didn't seem to be as many of them.

We decided to just relax and have a cup of "cafe express" just as we had done previously and soak in the relaxed vibe of La Marsa.

I really enjoyed the cafe culture in Tunisia. Folks actually took time out of the day to socialize, read, contemplate, or whatever…….the moment was yours to enjoy.

And while the view and the beach was nice……

It was starting to get pretty warm.

Plus, we were here on a mission……a lunch mission.

We headed back down the side streets of La Marsa, past the well to do homes, bright white, with blue windows, doors, and trim. You could tell this was the high rent district…..

Some of these places may not have looked like much from the road……

But the Mediterranean was this building's backyard.

We found the street where Le Golfe was fairly easily.

We walked in just as they were opening. The woman who kindly seated us before they were opened the day before, first looked at us in surprise, I guess most "tourists" visit just once. Then, giving us a bright smile, told us, "welcome back" and waving with her open hand told us, "your table is waiting!"

You gotta love these folks!

Our server was also the same as the previous day, he's so nice and welcoming.

We started with a Mushroom Salad – Salade de Champignons (13 TND – about $7.50)

This was nothing special.

Of course we had to have our favorite dish from our previous visit, the Seches Grillees.

Man, this is so good. Just enough chew, wonderfully grilled, with a smokiness that reminds me of stuff done over binchotan. Nice salt and cumin, brushed with olive oil……it hit all those flavor points.

The Missus really wanted to try the Salade Nicoise au Thon mi-cuit (16 TND – about $9.50 US)

The seared tuna was nicely seasoned and tasted fresh. The balsamic reduction really added to this salad.

The olive wood really lifted the Sardines Grillees (8 TND – about $4.75 US).

There was one item I really wanted to try. I'd seen fresh Bluefin Tuna several times during this trip. Once, in a market in Carthage, I watched in horror as two of the "fish cutters" went at a beautiful bluefin with chisels, hammers, and saws, just hacking the daylights out of it.

So today, I inquired about the Les Carpaccio de Poisson (20 TND – about $12 US) and was told it was "thon rouge", bluefin. So of course we had to get it!

This was very nice, the fish super fresh, the flavor mild, the texture light, but meaty. They gave us a little bowl of "soy sauce"…..place very strong quotations around that, with wasabi. I went with lemon which added a nice acidic touch to the dish.

All in all, a wonderful meal, in a beautiful and relaxed setting. What more could we ask for?

A couple of days ago, I was checking out a Roman Colosseum, the ruins of the city of Sufetula and having fantastic lamb slaughtered by the side of the road. We crossed a great salt lake and spent a night in a tent on the edge of the Sahara. Now here I was eating bluefin tuna carpaccio at a restaurant at the edge of the Mediterrannean. I'm not quite sure of how or why, but I was just glad to be able to do this. Life was good!

Big Island: A revisit to Teshima and other stuffs

April 28, 2013 mmm-yoso Hawai'i - The Big Island, Japanese Restaurants, Poke, Travel

On our last full day on the Big Island we decided to just relax. We took a walk down Ali'i Drive then back around Kuakini Highway.

It was a quiet day, so we just drove around a bit and talked about lunch…..yes, you know us. Teshima's"old school Japanese restaurant" charm had really gotten to the Missus. So with not much else to do, we drove back up to Kealakekua and stopped by Teshima for lunch.

The Missus was craving fish so She immediately went for the "Fresh Catch" Sashimi Tray ($17.50) which was ahi.

For some reason, the Missus really enjoys the old fashioned tsukemono and sunomono. Ditto the old school miso soup.

The fish was very, very fresh, and the Missus scarfed up all twelve pieces in no time.

I went with the "Monday Special" ($12.75). Now I've read some complaints about the prices and portion sizes at Teshima…..but take a look at this for $12.75……..

Geeez…..really?

Five slices ahi sashimi, the teri beef was very "local" a bit chewy. The fried fish here is quite good as well.

The makizushi and inari sushi take me back to "small kid" time…though combined with a chawan of rice….man, that's more carbs than I usually consume in a whole day, or two, nowadays.

The Missus got the fried fish, tsukemono, sunomono, and miso soup.

So I had an order of the famous shrimp tempura($7.25) as well.

If you like crunch, these will fill the bill. The tempura is surprisingly light and crisp.

We both thought that it tasted a bit of old oil that needed to be changed though. There seemed to be a bit of an off taste and even some greasiness to all the tempura.

So in the end a good meal, but not wow'd by the tempura.

Teshima Restaurant
79-7251 Mamalahoa Hwy
Kealakekua, HI 96750

We spent the rest of the day "just cruisin' around". Went to various stores, including a couple of health food places and walked around a bit.

After a very typical afternoon nap, we went out and took another walk around……through Long's, Hilo Hattie looking for gifts for the Missus's relatives and friends.

As it was getting to late afternoon, we discovered we were still pretty full. So we thought we'd go for some poke and beer for dinner. We walked back to the KTA and the pre-packaged selection looked terrible, so we went across the street to Sack n' Save. The poke selection there was better. I eventually settled on some ahi limu with inamona and of course boiled peanuts (not pictured), which went well with the Mehana Humpback Blue, which was the best of the three we gried during this trip.

This was ok. Not the best quality fish, the ogo kind of tough and dry, but passable.

I'm not a big fan of seaweed salad, but the Missus likes it……

As evening settled we saw a good number of locals who seemed to know each other parking in the back of the King Kamehameha. It seemed like there was a big party going on. So after eating and a quick shower we headed downstairs and strolled over to Kailua Pier.

That's Ahuʻena Heiau in the foreground. I guess some company was having their Christmas Party….yes, it was that long ago.

The chatter and laughter brought smiles to our faces as we just sat and took in the wonderful Kona evening. We had a great time in the Big Island. It had been too long since we were here last. We'll be back again soon……

La Marsa (Tunisia): Le Golfe

April 20, 2013 mmm-yoso European Restaurants, Sidi Bou Said/La Marsa, Travel, Tunisia, Tunisian Food

We had been a bit disappointed with Carthage and caught the TGM, the light rail back toward Sidi Bou Said. But instead of getting off there, we just went to the end of the line to La Marsa. We had really enjoyed the "vibe" and folks in that little seaside village when we visited. We were also lining up lunch. Rafael, that regular visitor to Dar Amilcar, recommended a restaurant in La Marsa named Le Golfe.

So we got off in La Marsa and like before were totally confused. We knew the address and hailed a cab. But after trying to converse with us for about 30 seconds he drove off. Just then a friendly looking gentleman eating an ice cream cone walked over and asked us…..

"you speak English?"
We both immediately answered, "Yes, do you?"
He smiled and nodded side to side, "No….."
It was really funny. He put his hand up with a single finger pointing to the sky and placed a call on his cellphone. A few minutes later a young lady, obviously his daughter appeared. Alright, she must speak English, right? The first thing she told me was…..

"I don't speak English!"
Me, laughing: "But, you are speaking English!"
Her: "That is all I speak.…."

This was hilarious. We were all laughing. Finally, I displayed the address of the restaurant. I didn't know that I had the phone number on the listing. The nice gentleman used his own cell phone and called the restaurant and got directions. I recall hearing some thing about "tourists…." He then hailed us a cab and gave the driver directions. Our cabbie was very serious looking. The drive was very short, the restaurant was a couple of blocks from the waterfront in a very upscale looking residential area. The fare was just 1.5 TND, about 95 cents! I gave the driver 4 TND and obviously thinking that I didn't know how to calculate prices tried to give me back my money. I explained to him that it was all for him. After all, the distance was so short. 4 TND is basically $2.50. We really enjoyed La Marsa.

The restaurant is very understated. In fact, we would have probably walked right past it.

The look is very modern.

We'd arrived before lunch service, but the nice woman told us to go ahead and have a seat. So we took the table overlooking the beach just steps away.

You gotta love the view.

We had a seat and just took in the view and the breezes from the Mediterranean.

Then the woman came up to us and told us it would be a short while for lunch since service hadn't started yet. We were just happy that they let us in and we were able to take in the wonderful view. But she also brought over some water and even asked us if we were going to have wine with lunch. They could get us started on that right away. So of course we got the Blanc Magnifique. They even brought bread over.

How nice was that? We would have been happy just to have waited, this gracious hospitality just made this experience so nice.

The Missus and I decided to just go for it and order whatever we felt like.

Since we've ordered it everywhere, we decided to get the Salade Mechouia (10 TND ).

Loved the presentation, down to the drizzle of balsamic vinegar and the capers, a local staple, which really added to the mechouia.

Overall, this was good, but not the best we had in terms of just plain flavor. A good salade mechouia has a very pleasant savory-smokiness, this one was good.

The Salade de la Mer (21TND) was very nice and refreshing.

Our favorite dish of the meal was the Seches Grillees (14TND).

Baby cuttlefish, so tender and full of flavor, simply seasoned with salt, pepper, and yes, a good amount of cumin. Grilled over olive wood, which seems to impart a nice smokey flavor which really brings out the sweet aspect of salt.

Goodness, this was possibly the best thing I ate in Tunisia!

The Missus had some reservations over my ordering Les Carpaccio de Bouef (20TND). But they were out of Carppacio de poisson on this day. We were rewarded with a refreshing and delicious dish.

Served on a ice cold slate. This was excellent.

Like the mechouia, because we order it everywhere, we got the merguez (11TND).

This was very nice, though in line with other versions we had during our trip.

We enjoyed a nice relaxing meal. The place started filling up with what seemed to be a combination of ex-pat/foreign officials and well to do locals. In all we spent about $70 US…..we've spent more at a "gastro-pub" in San Diego that didn't even come close to this in terms of food and service. This was by far the best meal we had in Tunisia.

We walked back to La Marsa and the TGM. As we crossed one of the streets I heard the honk of car horn. A cab passed me by, arm outstretched, waving to us. It was the cabbie who dropped us off at Le Golfe! In fact, everytime he'd see us, we'd hear a honk and without a doubt he'd be smiling and waving to us. For a $1.50 tip, we had a friend for life it seems! Such was life in La Marsa I guess.

Thanks for reading!

Tunisia: The Bakery, What’s behind the “door”, and Carthage

April 6, 2013 mmm-yoso Desserts, Markets & Grocers, Sidi Bou Said/La Marsa, Travel, Tunisia

the benefit of spending a couple of days in a single location is that you're able to get into a routine. In Sidi Bou Said the daily routine included a stop at this little neighborhood bakery in a cul-de-sac right downstairs from busy Habib Bourguiba.

At places like this, you select your snacks and pay by weight. The very mild-mannered, soft spoken gentleman running the place got used to seeing us, greeting us with smile on our visits.

On our last evening in Sidi Bou Said, the Missus was relaxing, doing stuff on the iPad. I went to the grocery, then stopped by the bakery. I was asked where my wife was….they had gotten used to seeing us together. I told him She was "resting". I placed the pastries the Missus wanted on a tray and carried it for weighing. I told the gentleman we were leaving in the morning and thanked him for being so nice. He placed everything gently in the box, weighed it, then went back to the pastry case and placed a good half dozen more pastries in the box, turned to me, placed his hand over his heart and said, "this is from me….thank you." Folks like this gentleman and Sophie really made our stay in Tunisia just that much special.

The other regular stop was the grocer on Habib Bourguiba. On our first visit, we noticed the "door"…..a door that usually had a line of men waiting.

Of course the Missus couldn't help herself. She kept wondering what was behind this door. Everytime we dropped by to purchase water or whatnot, the Missus would see the line and be beside Herself. We just didn't feel comfortable standing in line for the unknown…..

On my last trip to the market, I found the door open……opportunity knocked!

So what was behind the door?

In Islam, alcohol is forbidden, so I guess to be sensitive to Muslims, all the booze is kept in a separate room.

When we first decided to visit Tunisia, the first place that came to mind was Carthage. I mean really, Carthage. You'd be surprised at how many people I've met who have no idea that Carthage is actually in Tunisia. Then of course, there's how I first heard of Carthage when I was a child. There's the story of how Hannibal crossed the Alps with his army which included elephants!

Carthage itself is just a a couple of kilometers from where we were staying, so on one rather bright morning we headed off down Avenue Habib Bourguiba….to Carthage. The first thing that was obvious when we arrived was that Carthage was a pretty upscale neighborhood. Think of having several ancient ruins in, well, La Jolla……it was pretty strange overall. The signage was kind of ambivalent as well. After the drama of El Djem, Sbeitla, and Ksar Ghilane, this was pretty tame. Anyway, the site we enjoyed the most was the Antonine Baths, the third largest Roman bath complex in the world. According to what I've read, bath houses were very important in Roman Society and this seaside setting surely reflects that.

Most of what remains is the foundation and what I'm assuming are the underground network used to heat and move water.

I gotta say, the Roman really understood "location, location, location….."

The other locations we visited were somewhat non-descript. Some had trash strewn about. We decided to that a visit to the Byrsa Hill and the Musee de Carthage would be in order. It was really interesting trying to find the museum. Eventually, we found a sign and scrambled up this hill to the museum.