Breakfast at Talavera Azul

The Missus is a big fan of Menudo Rojo; basically red menudo. Unfortunately, She hasn't found very many versions She likes in San Diego. If I mentioned a place; I have to go check it out first, then report back to Her. She was mentioning this to a colleague, who recommended a place in Downtown Chula Vista named Talavera Azul….this coworker also said the place had been featured on Food Network……that recommendation gave me pause….well, because I think some of the personalities have somewhat dubious taste. Anyway, I wasn't who I thought it was and heck, I did recall that "CC" had been there a few years ago. Plus, you know that I don't mind driving like 20 miles plus for breakfast on the weekends. The place was actually closer than Aqui Es Texcoco.

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Both times we visited were just around 8 in the morning. And each time the place was almost full. On both occasions there was just one server working initially, with several others coming in over the next 20-30 minutes.

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There was a wait on both visits, but it wasn't anything overly long…..

The Missus just wanted one thing…..

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Which She got both times. On the first visit it was fantastic; just a tad of spice, mild offal flavor, the honeycomb tripe was crunchy but not hard. You knew there was tripe in this, but it wasn't super funky. The soup was steaming hot and the flavors melded together well, with some onions, a good amount of cilantro, a dash of oregano, and a squeeze of lime….it was quite good.

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On the second visit, the broth wasn't as hot or rich, it lacked any chili flavor, though it was still decent. I'm hoping visit #1 is the norm. I'm sure we'll be back again soon.

Talavera Azul 07 Talavera Azul 08Meanwhile, it seems that folks online rave about the chilaquiles. So on our first visit I got the Chilaquiles "Divorciados", that would be, with two different sauces; the mole and the green salsa.

They really do fry up those tortillas here….it was the texture of chips. The beans were really bland……. The breakfast potatoes could have used a bit more time griddled, with more color and a slight crispness to them.

The mole was too runny and overly sweet for my taste, the green salsa, which I believe is made with tomatillos was wonderful; just enough heat, tangy, really good.

Of course this was crowned off with a perfect easy over egg.

For the second visit…well, I wanted to try something else and went with the Nopales and Eggs.

Talavera Azul 09 Talavera Azul 05Now this was much better. Especially the beans, which were perfectly seasoned….enough salt, a touch of heat….both creamy and rustic, very nice.

I love the texture of nopales and this was done well, the nopales were tender without being too mushy. There are some chilies in this…..green, so it seems like you're eating nopales…it was a nice surprise. The eggs were done decently….perhaps a bit on the dry side. And while I think it could have used tomatoes, this was perfectly fine with me.

Of course I had to have my Café de Olla….and I gotta say, it was quite consistent on both visits. Not overly sweetened, just enough of a cinnamon flavor….this might be my current favorite version of this coffee drink.

Based on that first visit, I'm guessing we'll be back for the Missus's Menudo fix.

Also, I noticed signs with "El Zarape" on it. It seems that these folks have bought the El Zarape on Adams Avenue. Also, of note; metered parking is free before 9am and the Menudo Rojo is only available on weekends.

Talavera Azul
365 3rd Ave
Chula Vista, CA 91910
Hours:
Mon – Sat 730am – 2pm
Sunday    8am – 2pm 

Paris – Montmartre and Gontran Cherrier

On our second full day back in Paris; the Missus decided on getting a few things done. First, She wanted to see the view from Montmartre, the highest hill in the city, and then get some shopping done. So we headed off.

The morning was grey and drizzly, which didn't make viewing potential from Montmartre very high, but if there is one thing we've learned from travelling, it is you can't control the weather.

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Even on a gloomy day like this one; Pont Alexandre III is quite picturesque.

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It is considered one of the most beautiful bridges in the world and there are quite a few stories about it as well.

We headed past those familiar places.

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Up to Rue Lazare and past Église de la Sainte-Trinité.

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Up past place Pigalle. We somehow came upon a brick church.

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This is Eglise Saint Jean de Montmartre. It looked a bit different than other churches we've come across in Paris and it started to drizzle. We took that as sign to stop and visit the church.

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Created in the Art Nouveau style, there's a lot packed into this little church.

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I really enjoyed the vivid stained glass…..

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IMG_7560 IMG_2571When we turned the corner we could see Sacre Coeur in the background along with the funicular tracks and stairs. This being the Missus….well, we took the stairs….all 300 of them.

I'm not sure why the Missus loves climbing those stairs so much.

Perhaps She is concerned about my cardiovascular well being?

Anyway, we did make it to the top…..

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The view is still worth the climb even on a gloomy day as this.

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And looking back at Sacre Coeur, it looked like there was the possibility of sun…..

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The Missus decided not to go into the church, so instead we headed down the winding streets…passing tons of tourists and shop that seem to cater to them.

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IMG_7567 IMG_7572We did pass through a couple of squares that had little fairs going on.

And the Missus enjoyed doing some window shopping while we strolled down the hill.

And while we did enter a couple shops, the Missus refrained from buying anything….I believe She as saving Herself and my credit card for later on in the day.

One thing that did catch my eye was this windmill.

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Apparently there were once a dozen or so of these windmills in Montmartre. Today there are two left. They are known as Le Moulin de la Galette and were built in the early 17th century. This one is viewable from Rue Lepic and stands above a restaurant that also bears the name Le Moulin de la Galette.

In the mid to late 1800's the area where the restaurant resides was turned into a Guinguette, basically a type of bar. The windmill and guinguette became the muse of many of the artists who spent their time here. Some familiar names like Renoir, Van Gogh (who had an apartment nearby), Toulouse-Lautrec, and Picasso among them. And, did you know that it was used on the cover of one of my favorite Rod Stewart albums?

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I love stories like this.

We headed a bit further down the street and the Missus decided that we should get something light to eat. There was a Boulangerie on my list named Gontran Cherrier. There are multiple locations of this shop in Paris (including Japan, Singapore, and South Korea). This however, is Gontran Cherrier's original shop.

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It was easy to pick out what we wanted….the Missus had decided to try at least half a dozen croissants in Paris, so this would be the first. We also got a sandwich; a veggie version. The miso bread would have to wait for another day.

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The line moved fast; the service was efficient, and the folks quite nice.

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The croissant could have used a bit more salt, but it was decently buttery, flakey, with a nice, very mild chew. This would end up being one of our favorites in Paris.

The sandwich was just what we needed….the baguette crusty, the cucumbers and tomatoes full of the flavor….the slight bitterness of the arugula helping to balance out the sweetness and mild briny flavor of the cucumber.

Gontran Cherrier
22 Rue Caulaincourt
Paris, France
(There are several other locations in Paris)

The Missus was now energized and ready to do Her "serious" shopping. We headed down the hill…….passing the (in)famous Moulin Rouge (lots on the windmills and the one on Moulin Rouge here)

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We headed down Rue Blanche, taking note of the businesses along the way.

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Of course the Missus wanted to stop by Galeries Lafayette to check out the Christmas Displays yet again.

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A short while later we were back at Chanel Cambon. You pretty much get your own personal shopper here….while the Missus and the very nice young lady did their thing, I had a chance to watch the "interesting" customers.

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Mission accomplished, the Missus could get back to the apartment fast enough……

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She got what She wanted…….

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And it was time for a nap.

Thanks for stopping by!
 

Parma – I Tre Siochett

After lunch at Osteria dei Sani in Sasso Marconi we headed to Parma. It was a rather uneventful drive. Figuring out the toll process was pretty easy. Since we had a car and central Parma is a restricted traffic (ZTL) zone; that is only vehicles with permits are allowed in the central area, I decided to book an Agritourismo….which turned out to be a mixed experience. Even at only a few miles outside Parma, it was a pain driving to the city, though we did manage to find parking….not in one of the pay lots, but alongside the Parma River (Torrente Parma). And then take a nice walk into town.

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And while we didn't spend too much time in the city itself; except to eat and wander the streets. That's the Governor's Palace above.

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We did take in some of the sights. That's the Sanctuary of Santa Maria della Steccata below.

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The Monumento ai Caduti…..the war memorial.

IMG_0010 IMG_0009And the large open space in front of Parma Cathedral which we'd visit again a bit later.

On this afternoon and evening, we were just trying to get our bearings and stretch our legs a bit after spending most of the day driving. 

We headed back to what we considered the main street in the city; Strada Giuseppe Mazzini and just headed up the street where it suddenly became Strada della Republica.

We decided to stop for a coffee right before Chiesa di San Sepolcro.

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You could tell that Parma wasn't a heavily American/English/Asian tourist destination. Some folks were quite surprised to see the Missus and I. My linguistic ability is basically nil, except for food, but folks in Parma were really warm, kind, and easy to smile. The woman working at this cafe; I believe it's called Provinciali was so nice. When we returned again the following day later for coffee she waved and smiled to us.

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Our host at the Agritourismo, Adriano was super friendly, and even gave us a list of restaurants……..places he ate at. I Tre Siochett was outside of Central Parma, it looked fairly close to where we were staying….though we were warned, "it's not so easy to find in the dark". We did find it though…..

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Just along a roadside….the place was hopping! The guys working here were very friendly. We were handed menus and I immediately ordered something from the menu…..the Italian menu mind you…..the guy looked shocked….we were immediately brought an English version of the menu and I still ordered the dish….more on that later.

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Of course we had to have the Salume Misto, which was a bargain at 8 Euros!

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The culatello and the prosciutto were very good; but it was the item on the left side of the plate we both loved…..our first experience with Ciccioli, all the wonderful fatty and scrap pieces of pork, so porky and delicious. Also, this was truly served the Emilio-Romagna way. With lovely, yeasty, light pockets of dough called "torta fritta".

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Each version we had was a bit different. This one was light and crisp, not overly "lardy", with some decent salt. You open up the one end of the torta fritta and place your salumi in it and eat….at least this is how we were taught. I also saw folks eating two pieces of torta fritta with salumi between them like a sandwich. Regardless….this was heaven with salumi.

Every area within Emilia-Romagna seems to have their own type of stuffed pasta……and the best way to eat it is "en brodo" in a clear chicken based broth. In western Emilia-Romagna it's Anolini.

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Usually the most expensive primi on the menu (it's all relative – this was 12 Euros); because of the amount of work needed to make the pasta, the payoff, like this version, was usually quite good. A bit of meat, cheese, or sometimes "Zucca" (pumpkin). Loved the texture of the pasta.

And then, there was the "Pesto di cavallo con pestata di capperi" (10 Euros). I ordered it from the Italian menu, then was immediately brought the English menu……just for clarification purposes and we still ordered it. Just so you know, cavallo is horse, and this is basically horse tartare. The really nice Server just wanted to make sure. Because as he said in English, "even Italiano…it is yes-no, yes-no, yes-no…." Which made the Missus and I crack up.

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This was definitely a "yes"….served with a caper relish on the side….a squeeze of lemon…the finish is so clean, the flavor almost refreshing, with a slight sweetness. The acid and brininess adding character to the dish.

The Missus ordered the "cake" for dessert and holy-moly…..this is one serving of "cake"…..

IMG_0027 IMG_0031The place was even more packed as we left. We loved the gracious, friendly service. This was a fun meal and folks here just put us a ease.

I Tri Siochett
Strada Comunale Farnese 74/A
Parma PR, Italy

Adriano was right when he said finding our way back via the side streets outside Parma in the dark was going to be interesting….even with a GPS. I think we took a couple of circles….the good thing about roundabouts is that if you miss your exit, you just take another loop. After what seemed like 45 minutes for a 15 minute drive, we ended up back at our room.

There was something about the cuisine of Emilia-Romagna that really seemed to suit us.