Budapest – More Buda, the Great Market Hall, Hold Utca Food Market, and Kacha Belvárosi Piac

IMG_7331Following a nice break Budavari Retesvar we walked back the half block to the striking Matthias Church. Originally founded in the eleventh century, the current church was built in the thirteenth century by Bela IV after the Mongols destroyed the original structure. The official name of the church is "Church of Our Lady", but the ever popular King Matthias renovated the structure and even got married in the church twice and so the church is called by most, Matthias Church.

While we often spend a good amount of time exploring churches, we decided to just admire this one from the exterior.

IMG_0213
IMG_0213

Right past the church is the Statue of Saint István (St Stephen) who was the first Christian King of Hungary.

IMG_0214

Right past the statue is the Fisherman's Bastion; which was one of the many structures and improvements made for the 1896 Hungarian Millennium Celebration.

IMG_0222
IMG_0222
IMG_0222 IMG_0225

While it's normal for folks to enjoy the views from the structure, we really kind of just wandered around and took it all in.

We headed down the stairs, back to the Danube when we ran into one of the sites I had on my list. It's the Péter Mansfeld Monument, the rather disturbing sculpture of a young man hurtling headfirst toward the ground. Péter Mansfeld was one of; if not the youngest victim of the Hungarian uprising of 1956. Mansfield joined the fight for independence at the age of 16. After his arrest by the Soviets, it was determined that he was one of the leaders of a group that were stealing weapons and cars. He was tortured and sentenced to death. In order to look better in the eyes of the world; they imprisoned Péter until he was 18. He was hanged eleven days after his 18th birthday on March 21, 1959.

IMG_0227

I told the Missus the story…..it was quite sobering and we walked down the steps to the riverfront in silence.

Lajos Fountain

We walked along the Danube; passing Várkert Bazár, the Buda Castle Park, where we had started up to Catle Hill in the morning.

IMG_0233

We were getting a bit hungry; so we decided to check out the Great Market Hall. So, we walked over to the Elisabeth Bridge which we had crossed over on the previous evening

And of course, in a park near the bridge, is a statue of Queen Elisabeth. There are statues and sculptures everywhere in Budapest.

IMG_0236

Instead of crossing on the Elisabeth Bridge, we walked one bridge over and crossed the Danube on the Liberty Bridge.

IMG_0238
IMG_0238 IMG_0261The Great Market Hall is located steps from the end of the bridge on the Pest side. I'd head a lot of mixed reviews from folks who had been to Budapest. Everything from "it's amazing and fun" to "it's over run with people and tourist traps".

The hall is quite  grand; like so many places in Budapest, it was built for the 1896 Millennial Celebration. 

So, what did we think?

IMG_0248
IMG_0248

Well yes, there were quite a few tourists and most of the second floor is full of tourist type shops. But, much like Pike Place Market; there's still much to be seen and bought even for locals.

IMG_0246
IMG_0246

It's vibrant, alive, with both tourists and locals.

IMG_0257

With lots of things to buy. But in terms of food options; we just didn't see anything that appealed to us.

IMG_0260

Instead we decided to take the mile-and-a-half walk to a place we had passed on the previous day; the Hold Utca Market Hall. To get there we walked up Vaci Utca which seemed like tourist central…..which we then avoided for the rest of the trip. Up to rather sedate Hold Utca and the market hall.

IMG_0271
IMG_0271

We both enjoyed the vibe of this market hall. Yes, there are tourists; in fact there seemed to be a group of tourists on a food tour. Still, there were even more locals; quite a few business folks and such eating at some of the shops on the second level.

IMG_0262

We had dinner reservations and wanted something small and we found just what we wanted at this shop on the second level.

IMG_0268

The shop specializes in duck…..

And so we decided to share a salad and some duck liver.

IMG_0265 IMG_0267The duck liver came in a glass; completely submerged in duck fat. It had been slowly cooked in fat at a low temp; think confit. It was rich, not overly livery….and man; dipping the bread into the fat was quite rich and decadent.

The salad was refreshing; the strawberries were sweet; the greens crisp, the light vinaigrette perfect for this salad. Good ingredients; obviously from downstairs.

IMG_0266 IMG_0270It was just what we needed to hold us over until dinner. And the woman working in this shop was very warm and friendly

Kacha Belvárosi Piac
(In the Hold Street Market Hall – second floor)
Hold utca 13
Budapest 1112 1054 Hungary

We'd put in a decent amount of mileage and it was just past 2pm! It was time for a nap as I was sure we'd be doing some walking before and after dinner!

IMG_0269

Budapest – Castle Hill and Budavari Retesvar

The Missus woke early and was rarin' to go on our second morning in Budapest. I think the cruise of the Danube the previous night had something to do with it….as it displayed Budapest's beauty in perfect form. We headed out fairly early, the Missus wanted to check out Castle Hill before the tourist crowds hit, so we set off from the Marriott, past the Vigadó Concert Hall next door; just another one of the amazingly beautiful structures in the city.

IMG_0152

IMG_0153 IMG_0155Even beyond all the wonderful buildings, there are two things that quickly come to mind when I think of Budapest. One of them are the benches. I don't recall seeing so many benches in any other city. And folks seem to take good advantage of them.

The second are the sculptures…..which are everywhere as well. Right in front of the Concert Hall is the well known Little Princess statue which was created by László Marton whose inspiration for the sculpture was his daughter.

The one on the right is called Danube Wind. The figure of a woman is leaning against the wind of the Danube River. Not quite sure what she is looking at….though the view is wonderful.

IMG_0157

There are also quite a few "mini-statues" hidden about. The Missus found this one close by. At first I thought it was a pile of dog turds; but closer inspection revealed….

IMG_0159

A little balloon dog and a bone! you can be easily distracted in Budapest. Perhaps a homage to Jeff Koons?

IMG_0162

We crossed over the Chain Bridge yet again; though this time with the intention of heading up Castle Hill. I mentioned that it was too early to catch the funicular up the hill to the Missus…. silly me….the Missus had no intention of catching the funicular. We'd be going up via the Várkert Bazár, the Buda Castle Park. From the park; there's an escalator then an elevator that takes you up to the Royal Palace.

IMG_0165
IMG_0165
IMG_0165

The views from the park aren't shabby either.
IMG_0165

And the view from Castle Hill, even on a hazy morning is stunning.

IMG_0170
IMG_0170 IMG_0174A statue of the Virgin Mary looks over the Danube to the Pest side. The statue was erected fairly recently.

It was nice having this view all to ourselves on this morning. We could really take in the city.

We really took our time at the look-out.

From here it's a short walk along the promontory to the Royal Palace.

IMG_0178

IMG_0179

According to several accounts I've read; this rendition of Buda Castle, rebuilt after World War II, is a far cry from what it was. To quote Wikipedia:

"The government made a decision about reconstruction only in 1948. According to contemporary photos, all the important interiors were in a damaged state, but their reconstruction was technically possible. The new communist government of Hungary considered the Royal Palace a symbol of the former regime. Therefore, Hungarian leaders chose to thoroughly modernise the interior and exterior of the palace. Architectural trends played a part in the decision, as modernist architects had condemned the Hauszmann style as "too ornate"."

The grand statue in front of the castle is of Eugene of Savoy; who helped to drive the Ottomans out of Hungary.

IMG_0182

That statue of a bird above the area where the funicular arrives is the Turul.

IMG_0186 IMG_0188This mythical bird is the symbol of Hungary. You can read more about the Turul here.

From here we walked into the Palace Courtyard and viewed the King Matthias Fountain; King Matthias was a very popular leader and is considered the last "true" Hungarian King as all those who came after were foreign born.

This courtyard is also the location of the Budapest History Museum.

IMG_0189

From here we headed on out; past the ruins of a medieval monastery.

IMG_0192

And of course more statues. This one is of Gróf Bethlen Istvan; who was Prime Minister of Hungary from 1921 – 1931.

IMG_0193

This one is of a Hussar examining his saber.

IMG_0196

This one is the Statue of the Independence War.

IMG_0198

From here we headed toward the nearby Matthias Church. We were getting a bit hungry and started looking for a place to grab something small to eat and some coffee. There seemed to be nothing in sight. And then it hit us. A fragrance we'd been searching for during our walk in the city but had not yet found. The yeasty smell of bread and pastries. We followed our nose to this structure.

IMG_0211

Where there was a tiny shop…..

IMG_0210

And a young lady with the most welcoming smile…..

IMG_0205

I ordered a savory strudel (Rétes) and a couple of the cheese "scones" (Pogácsa), along with some espresso and water. We had a seat at the tiny table.

IMG_0206

And enjoyed our snack.

IMG_0208

Not a big fan of the cabbage strudel, it was mushy, soggy, and fairly bland. We both enjoyed the "scone" which was almost a cross between a gougere and a scone. It was light and cheesy.

IMG_0209

Along with some caffeine and H2O, it was just what we needed.

Budavari Retesvar
Balta koez 4.
Budapest 1014, Hungary

We were ready to get on with our exploration.

La Catrina Tapas & Cantina

**** La Catrina has closed

La Catrina has been somewhat of an enigma for us. I first noticed this shop on the corner of University and Herman, in the former location of Tostada's while walking around the area when the Missus was getting Her hair done one day.

La Catrina 01

A few days later we dropped by for dinner and really enjoyed the tacos……

La Catrina 02
La Catrina 02
La Catrina 02 La Catrina 05And the Missus loved the salsas as well; especially the version with chili de arbol and nuts. It was spicy and complex, really heightening the experience.

La Catrina 15

So, I was thinking we'd do a couple of more visits, then I'd do a post…..except, the menu kept changing, the Rib Eye and Bone Marrow tacos we'd enjoyed changed…..

La Catrina 06

Then the rock shrimp tacos; which were delicious on a previous visit, were suddenly not fried on one visit…..

La Catrina 17a

On the next visit the shrimp were nicely battered and fried, but now came with fries…..

La Catrina 07

And then, to top things off, we went twice during hours posted on the place's website; only to find them closed. Sigh…..

So, after three actual visits and two aborted visits, I basically called it quits.

Until we recently got back from Mexico City. The Missus really wanted some tacos….actually She missed the great salsas we had. So, after checking out the hours on La Catrina's website, we returned. And so far so good.

There was one dish we've had at La Catrina on every visit. It's the Carnitas and Octopus Cazuela; a shareable portion of porky, rich carnitas, and nicely prepped octopus.

La Catrina 08 La Catrina 09The flour tortillas served is a bit inconsistent at times; but when you get it slightly charred it just brings the flavors up to another level. I never thought the combination of carnitas and pulpo would work, it does in this case as the octopus adds a very nie texture. And yes, the Missus loves the salsas….

La Catrina 10

When things are right; there's a wonderful combination of textures, along with the richness of the pork, the acidity and slight pungency of the onions and pico de gallo, all brought together by the charred flour tortilla and picante salsas. And while it's not always been perfect, it's never been bad.

What we also did on our two recent visits is get whatever Happy Hour or special is going on.

There's usually the Rock Shrimp Tacos.

La Catrina 11 La Catrina 12Which were 2 for $7 during our most recent visits. And the last time we had them; the layer of queso on the tortilla had been wonderfully griddled, forming the perfect, crisp, nutty-milky shield for the tortilla. The shrimp were crunchy, moist, and quite well, but not overly seasoned.

This last time the Fish Tacos were 3 for $8.

La Catrina 13 La Catrina 14The Missus loved these. The fish was perfectly fried, crunchy exterior, the flesh moist, with a mild sweetness. It went well with the smooth and creamy guacamole and of course the salsas.

La Catrina Fish Taco

On our previous visit the Rib Eye Tacos were 2 for $7. While the portion of meat was quite generous, we didn't for these very much.

La Catrina 16 La Catrina 17The meat was tender, but hadn't been seared properly and lacked color and the flavor a nice caramelization brings to meat. It was moist, but also seemed on the greasy side and hadn't been seasoned enough for our taste. The queso had not been griddled enough so it was soft and didn't protect the tortilla from all that juice and grease; causing the taco to lose its integrity and fall to pieces. Maybe you'll have better luck with this one.

Something we tried twice but didn't have much luck with at La Catrina is the Ceviche.

La Catrina 17b La Catrina 17cBoth times we tried this; the fish had been chopped into fairly small pieces and had been overly "cooked" in the lime juice making it mushy. Also, we found the ceviche to be way to sour and salty both times. We haven't tried it on recent visits, so maybe……or maybe not.

La Catrina 18

La Catrina 19 La Catrina 20We really enjoyed our last two visits to La Catrina; it seems we've found what works for us and what we enjoy. The staff here has always been friendly, welcoming, and quite nice. I'm hoping that all the inconsistencies we ran into are over. I'm also hoping the place survives. Perhaps it's because we eat at a rather early hour; but we've rarely seen more than one or two other tables filled during our visit. There's so much potential here.

La Catrina Tapas & Cantina
3139 University Ave
San Diego, CA 92104
Hours (as of this past week):
Tues – Thurs 4pm – 10pm
Fri – Sat    Noon – 1am
Sunday       Noon – 9pm
Closed on Monday

Reims – The Significance of 10 Rue President Franklin Roosevelt, Cimetière du Nord, and Dinner at Anna-S – La Table Amoureuse

After having a nice drive around Champagne, we returned to Reims and dropped the rental car off at Gare de Reims. We took a roundabout way back to the hotel, mainly because there was once place I wanted see. Around the back of the train station is a street named Rue President Franklin Roosevelt. There is a red brick building that still functions as a schoolhouse to this day. You'll see the flags of the UK, US, France, and the Soviet Union flying out front.

IMG_5774

Walk up to the doorway and you'll see this sign…..

IMG_5771

The top sign basically says: “It is here that on 7 May 1945, was signed the act that ended the Second World War in Europe.” Yes, this is the spot where Germany surrendered. You can read Ralph Morse's first hand account here. This street was renamed for Franklin Roosevelt as was the school it houses which still operates.

Nearby is the War Memorial of Reims (Monument aux Morts de Reims).

IMG_2212

And right across the way is the Cimetière du Nord, which had a quite haunting look to us as we walked through it.

IMG_2213
IMG_2213
IMG_2213

From here we walked past some of the more important locales in the city like Place Royale…..

IMG_2217

There was quite a bit of road and other work going on so I didn't take many photos.

IMG_2218

And the sun seemed to set quite rapidly……

IMG_2219 IMG_5782We returned to the hotel, freshened up, changed, and headed off to dinner. I'd made reservations at a contemporary bistro named Anna-S – La Table Amoureuse, which seemed quite low-keyed, had an interesting menu, and seemed just right for this evening.

Of course things started off some Champagne.

We weren't very hungry, so we decided to share an appetizer, the Missus ordered another appetizer as Her main and I got one of the entrees, to share with Her of course.

The service was wonderful and accommodating.

IMG_2225
IMG_2225

We started with, well, the Foie Gras of course, two ways, the terrine was wonderful, rich and creamy, the fig compote and the brioche proved to be a wonderful foil for the richness.

IMG_2228

The Missus ordered the Noix de Petoncles dans son Mini Potirron.

IMG_2231 IMG_2234Basically, sautéed scallops served in a pumpkin. The scallops were very sweet and tender, I was a bit leery about the fennel sauce, but the strong anise flavor had been decently tempered and the acidity lifted the dish as did the rather sweet flesh of the pumpkin.

I ordered the Magret de Canard, the Duck Breast.

IMG_2236

I was concerned when this arrived as the duck seemed to be cooked a bit past where I prefer, but it was very tender, slightly gamey, the jus had a nice balance of richness, sweetness, and acidity. We both really loved the potato galette.

The dessert was a game-changer for the Missus. It was a cheese course. Over time we've really forgotten what we chose; but we won't forget this specific cheese course.

IMG_2238

First off, all the cheese on the cart, which was sliced tableside were at the perfect serving temperature….the flavors were amazing. Second, the Missus had always avoided having the sweet compote with the cheese; but since this was served at room temperature, all the wonderful complex flavors came through and the compote just helped to elevate things. So thank you AnnaS, for setting the Missus off on the interesting "cheese ride" we're on.

The service was fantastic, professional, polished, but not stuffy. This was a very nice meal and we'd gladly eat here again!

Anna-S – La Table Amoureuse
6 Rue Gambetta
51100 Reims, France

Like the previous evening, we took a pleasant little stroll after dinner, in the peace and quiet of Reims.

IMG_2240

Thanks for stopping by!

Sunday Sandwiches – Waters Fine Foods

SS Waters 01**** Waters Fine Foods has closed

The weekend after we got back from CDMX, I had to drop off lunch for the Missus. After picking up my dry cleaning, I was driving home on Morena Boulevard and for some reason Waters Fine Foods came to mind. Sheesh, the last time we'd had anything from Waters was back in the early 2000's at the original location on West Morena which I believe is now their catering location. The Missus and I really didn't care for the sandwiches we had on that visit and we kind of just filed it away.

Waters moved their café to the strip all next to JV's Mexican Food. So, now a good 16-17 years after that visit….well, it was time to check out Waters again.

SS Waters 02

The interior is set-up sort of like a café-deli-coffee shop…..it's a bit confusing as you order not at the register, but at the counter, pay, and either have a seat or cool your heels.

SS Waters 03

Though the employees are quite pleasant.

I ordered the Smoked turkey Panini ($10) which seemed a bit "light" as I carried it home. So when I opened it….

SS Waters 04 SS Waters 05Having just returned from Mexico City, mind automatically did the mental calculation…..man, this was 200 $MXN. Still, like I've said about Banh Mi; it's all about proportion. So, there's was barely a sliver of smoked turkey; which would not have been bad if I could actually taste the turkey, which by the way, wasn't evenly spread through the sandwich. There was just way too much pesto in comparison to the meat, few strings of roasted red pepper, and cheese. I enjoy pesto and this version was quite "pine nut" forward if you know what I mean. But that was all there was, pesto and arugula, usually two of my favorite things just overwhelmed everything. Including the nicely crusty bread.

SS Waters 06

Again, I don't mind having a "Manini panini" mind you; but in a case of a sandwich like that balance and proportion is quite important.

So, this past weekend I decided to head on back. Folks that know me understand that when it comes to places in San Diego, I usually don't let things go after a single visit, and if I do, it's because we thought the meal wasn't very good and the additional investment really wasn't worth it (i.e. Trust, Pardon My French, Juniper & Ivy, etc…). Or the meal was so terrible that I'm not willing to go myself and I can't talk the Missus into returning (Officine Buona Forchetta comes to mind). Or perhaps I've dropped the ball and my last visit was way too long ago and I'll have to start the "meter" running all over again to do a post (Hachi Ramen), or worse of all, I suffer some particular "ailment"…..

But Waters is a café and in my 'hood, so no excuses, right?

SS Waters 07

Same really nice group of folks working.

IMG_8210

This time I went with the Roast Beef ($9.25). And while not being particularly hefty, I enjoyed this sandwich much more.

SS Waters 08 SS Waters 09I used the dinner fork to provide a bit of "scale" for the sandwich. While the baguette was a bit on the "dry" side; the roast beef was moist, tender, and best of all, I could taste it as the horseradish sauce and aioli were used with a nice restrained hand and complemented the meat. Nice crunch from the lettuce, I wish there were more crunchy onions as it would have added even more crispness and a sweet-pungency to this. The tomato added a slight acidity, but would have been had it been more ripe.

SS Waters 10

Not bad at all.

I'm glad I returned for that second visit. And while I saw some folks eating a pretty good looking salad; I'm not sure I'll return to Waters….at least for a while. It's not quite my style.

Oh and to that couple who were discussing and dissing all the customers in the place; from the colors and skirts the women were wearing to the tattoos on one of  the customers…..try not to talk so loud as I and the guy sitting at the end of the table could hear everything you said. From the guy who you (the woman) said there were "too many of their kind in the neighborhood these days."

Waters Fine Foods
1122 Morena Blvd
San Diego, CA 92110
Hours:
Mon – Fri 11am – 7pm
Sat       11am – 4pm

Champagne – Driving to Bouzy and Epernay, Lunch at Café le Progrès

While the Missus was enjoying our stay in Reims, She was already itching to do some additional exploring the following morning. Even though we had a private tour of the area the next day (so I could actually sample some champagne), She convinced me to rent a car to do some impromptu exploring.

IMG_2167 IMG_2168But first, we decided to walk around a bit, and grab some breakfast. I also wanted to find the location of the restaurant we had reservations for that evening. So we headed down Rue Chanzy and almost right next to AnnaS our dinner destination was a bakery named Le Four à Bois. And the Missus was really excited to see that in addition to our typical Croissant au Buerre, they sold gougeres!

So we got a croissant and a half dozen gougeres. The gougeres were too bready and dense, not light and airy like we enjoy them. The flavor was decent though.

The croissant was a bit too chewy, didn't have enough butteriness, and wasn't flakey enough for our taste.

IMG_2169

Le Four à Bois
100 Rue Chanzy
51100 Reims, France

From here we walked across town to the train station and found that Enterprise Rent-A-Car had a nice compact available, which we rented for the day.

And so we headed off through the beautiful countryside.

IMG_2174
IMG_2174

We stopped at few towns on the way and eventually stopped and walked around the most appropriately named Bouzy. Where we stopped and stretched our legs a bit.

IMG_2178
IMG_2178
IMG_2178

IMG_2178
IMG_2178

There were a few Champagne houses along the way, but I think many of them are by appointment only. And since I was driving anyway, we thought we'd just wander around a bit.

From Bouzy it was Bisseuil, Ay, and another wonderfully named town, Dizy, before we made our way to the city that is home to what is considered to be the "real" capital of Champange, Epernay. We decided to park at the southern side of town and walk in.

IMG_2184

Basically across the street we passed a really nice looking church…

IMG_2183

Turns out that this is the chapel of the Auban-Moet Hospital…….if you recognize the name; it's "that" Moet. Apparently, one of the conditions of financing the hospital was that a Catholic chapel would have to be built. Another being that the care was to be provided by Nuns.

We enjoyed the walk into town….the houses were wonderful; each different and original.

IMG_2185

As we got to the first major roundabout before getting to the heart of the city we came across this very distinctive structure.

Château de la lune

This is the Chateau de la Lune ("House of the Moon"), built in the Art Nouveau style, designed by Architect Henri Clouet.

Near the center of town is the Portail Saint-Martin which dates back to 1540 and is all that remains of the Abbey of Saint Martin.

IMG_2188

We did a bit of window shopping, but since we'd be coming back the next day, decided to not visit Avenue de Champagne, where all the Champagne Houses are located.

After doing a bit of shopping we decided to stop for lunch. We just wanted something easy and not fancy and this place seemed to fit the bill.

IMG_2189
IMG_2189

We enjoyed the al fresco sitting arrangement; Le Progres is what I'd basically describe as a "diner". We just wanted something simple and got the charcuterie and an order of frites.

Charcuterie - Le Progres Brasserie - Epernay IMG_2191The baguette was pretty good, crusty and yeasty. The Pate de Campagne was pretty good; the rest rather routine, but really, not bad for the price.

The Missus enjoyed the frites which were nicely fried, crisp on the outside, moist and light inside.

And pretty much what we wanted….

IMG_2195

Café le Progrès
5 Place de la République
51200 Épernay, France

What was kind of interesting about this place was that it is located on Place de la Republique, which is the roundabout that I would consider to be the center of the city is.

IMG_2198

After resting for a bit, we headed back to the car. We took a different route back. This one along Avenue Paul Chandon. Which we really enjoyed.

IMG_2203
IMG_2203

The street ended at Église Saint-Pierre-Saint-Paul…..

Église Saint-Pierre-Saint-Paul

A soon enough we were back at the car. It was time to head back to Reims……

IMG_2211

We'd had a fun, yet relaxing time exploring Champagne on our own.

Thanks for stopping by!

Poke Etc Revisited

OK, so no more poke at Zarlitos, huh? I was in National City; so I decided to revisit Poke Etc to see what was up. There's been some adjustment to the menu; but I decided to grab some lunch. I also got Calvin the Haupia mix his Missus likes so much.

I got the Lau Lau Combo.

Poke Etc Rev 01 Poke Etc Rev 01bWhich was ok for "mainland Lau Lau"….that would be; too lean, no salted butterfish. But man, I do miss the smokey flavor of luau leaf and I guess I got my fix in this case. It's actually better than some of the other versions I've had on the mainland over the years.

The rice was same as before; on the dry side.

I ordered the Basic Spicy Ahi; but what I got was weird, not spicy, way too much sesame oil, the fish was fairly low quality, kind of mushy.

Poke Etc Rev 02

The following weekend I needed to go into work….so, of course I headed into the opposite direction….you can call it procrastination, denial, passive-aggressive, or what have you. I needed to grab something to eat, so I decided to give Poke Etc another shot. This time I got the Poke Salad, with Ahi Limu.

Poke Etc Rev 03

The quality of the fish was much better than on previous visits. Maybe because it was something like 945 in the morning? The poke wasn't combined with the shoyu real well and the limu was mushy and all stuck together. The "salad" was a typical mixed greens, which is what I kind of expected. At least the fish was better this time around.

Not sure if I'll be back again soon though. I still need to get to It's Raw in OB. My sources tell me it's more "real", not the typical "chi-poke" kind of place….

Poke Etc
916 E 8th St
National City, CA 91950

Hope you have a great weekend!

Mexico City – Museo Nacional de Antropología and Lunch at El Hidalguense

IMG_1682After making our way thru La Condesa we crossed super busy Avenida Chapultepec into the land of skyscrapers. I've heard Polanco described as the "Beverly Hills" of Mexico City. This is supposedly where the wealthy live and play. It's also where Pujol is located….hopefully we'll be able to get reservations next time.

We'd only be visiting the district. There were only two items on the Missus's itinerary for this short trip. ne of them was checking out the Museo Nacional de Antropología (National Museum of Anthropology) located in the huge Bosque de Chapultepec, which is the second largest park in Latin America.

There's much to see in the area; from the somewhat maligned Estela de Luz, also known as the "Monument to Corruption" because of alleged corruption which inflated the cost to three times what was estimated.

Instead of heading up Paseo de la Reforma, we instead headed into the park, which is a wonderful green space.

IMG_1681

DSC00099

IMG_1684

Where the Missus could practice taking photos with Her brand new camera.

We headed up to Monumento a los Niños Héroes.

IMG_1692

Where the Missus took a good amount of time with Her camera. Then turning right and walking down Calzada Mahamta Gandhi; yep, Mahatma Gandhi, in CDMX. Apparently Gandhi is very popular in Mexico; in fact one of the largest bookstore chains in Mexico is……you got it Gandhi.

And we got to see more squirrels doing their "tightrope act" along the way.

IMG_1698

We got back onto Paseo de la Reforma and soon enough found ourselves at the Monolith of Tlaloc, which marks the street to the entrance of the museum.

IMG_1700

This sculpture was found Coatlinchan which has quite a story behind it.

IMG_1701

We got past security, bought our tickets….man, at 75 $MXN (under $4/US) this is a major bargain. We got a map at the information booth and the really nice women there marked off the "must see" places for us. The museum has 23 halls and is spread over 20 acres!

Once thru the entrance into the wide open courtyard area, you see a huge towering fountain, named "El Paragas" ("The Umbrella").

IMG_1705

I don't want to create another monster 1500 word post; so I'll keep my verbiage to a minimum from here on. Let me just say that we loved the museum; there was so much to see. We found the history of pre-Colombian and modern day Mexico to be so interesting. It's one of our favorite museums and we'll definitely be back. The galleries are set-up wonderfully, things are spaced out well.

IMG_1709
IMG_1709
IMG_1709
IMG_1709
IMG_1709

And it was interesting to see items from places we had been to before.

IMG_1732

There are dramatic entrances to galleries.

IMG_1735

This is "El Creador".

IMG_1737

The Corazon de Tula.

IMG_1759

Rings and a ball used for the Aztec ball game Ullamaliztli.

IMG_1762
IMG_1762
IMG_1762

Kinda scary statue of the Goddess Cōātlīcue.

IMG_1786

Xōchipilli, the "Prince of Flowers", god of art, beauty, dance, and flowers. According to Atlas Obscura, the base of the statue has symbols of hallucinogenic plants carved into it.

IMG_1793

The Disk of Mictlāntēcutli, the god of the dead. This disk was found at the foot of the Pyramid of the Sun in Teotihuacan.

IMG_8004

And of course the Aztec Sun Stone.

IMG_8007

Whew; at the end we needed a break.

IMG_8010 IMG_1824Like I said earlier; there's so much to see. We only visited the ground floor. We'll definitely return.

Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Avenida Paseo de la Reforma y Calzada Gandhi s/n
Chapultepec, Mexico City 11560, Mexico

Of course by the time we finished things up, we were starting to get hungry. The Missus was still up for a walk and I'd heard so much about Mercado Roma; so we walked the over two miles back across La Condesa to Roma. The Missus though; wasn't impressed with the hipsterish set-up and available food. So, I decided to check out another place I had on my "list". Just a ten minute walk away was a place that is only open from Friday to Sunday. The place serves Barbacoa; the Missus (who loves Aqui es Texcoco) was instantly sold.

We were warmly welcomed when we arrived and in spite of the place being pretty busy, they found a table for us. The host/server, Juan was so amazingly warm and friendly.

DSC00119
DSC00119

We looked over the menu and decided on two items. After ordering, Juan noticed the Missus trying out Her camera. He asked Her if She'd like to "see the Barbacoa"….of course the answer was "yes". He quickly called over one of the "chefs" and the Missus got Her photo! Check out the barbacoa and the big smile on the chef's face! You gotta love CDMX!

DSC00118
DSC00118

The folks here are so nice…..

And the Missus loved the salsas.

IMG_8011

The Blue Corn Tortillas were excellent, warm, full of corn flavor, pliable, but sturdy enough to handle "the goods"…..

IMG_1839

First up was the Plato Hidalguense (140 $MX – about $7.25/US).

IMG_1833

I'd been wanting to have nopales and thought this would work out well. The Missus and I loved the papalo, something we don't see much of here in San Diego. The powerful peppery-citrusy-tannic flavor might not be for everyone, but it's definitely for us. The Missus absolutely adored the avocado, which looked quite firm and under-ripe; it was however, just perfect, super buttery, and really good.

And of course, the nopales.

IMG_1836

Easily the best I've ever had. Look how bright and vibrant these cactus pads are! There was just a nice mild crunch to these; the clean green bean-asparagus like flavor came through so cleanly; and as a bonus the slices of tomatoes were perfectly ripe. Talk about delici-yoso!!!

I'd ordered the Mixiote (155 $MX – about $8/US)….though had I seen the barbacoa before ordering; I'd probably gone for that.

IMG_8017

The meat was fairly tender, the seasoning was on the mild side, and the meat itself was mildly gamey. A nice dish. Which led us to believe that Aqui es Texcoco does a pretty darn good job with their mixiote.

IMG_8015 DSC00125It was quite a spread!

With a couple of Ciel this cost us less than twenty bucks without tip! And I did learn the phrase "agrega veinte por ciento por favor"…….which I used liberally during this trip.

Juan was an amazing host; the service excellent and welcoming, the food was delicious, the vibe relaxed and laid back. We can't wait to return.

El Hidalguense
Campeche 155
Roma Sur, 06760 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Hours:
Fri – Sun 7am – 6pm

We decided to take a Uber back to our hotel – Uber is so inexpensive in CDMX, we just used UberX. Our trip cost us 39.90 $MX (with 10% tip) – think two bucks…….sheesh

We decided to take a short break, then head on back out to explore Roma.

Stay tuned!

 

Smack’N Guamanian Grill

**** Smack’N Guamanian Grill has closed

After a short for Smack ‘N to open and a couple misfires on when they were actually opening; I finally made it.

Smack n 01
Smack n 01

It’s a nice; tidy shop.

Smack n 03 Smack n 04And the folks are very friendly.

I got a smile seeing cans of Your Lemon Powder, an ingredient I use to balance out flavors in my Kelaguen on the counter.

And the nice, what I assume are photos of the owner’s family. Really enjoyed that personal touch.

And, of course I ordered what I typically do when first visiting Guamanian restaurants. As I noted way back 2007; one of my coworkers, and sort of a drinking buddy was from Guam. We had a cookout at our friend’s house and his Mom was in town. She made Kelaguen and the rest is history……

Smack n 05 Smack n 06Here it’s on many of the plates, but if you want it to be all Kelguen, you’ll find it on “Fan Fav” ($10.95). The Kelaguen is chopped to a medium texture; is quite lemon-forward if you will; not from the Yours Powder, but quite a bit of lemon juice. It was a bit short in the coconut and chili pepper department. In fact, it wasn’t spicy at all. I asked about Boonie Peppers and was given a blank look….so am not sure if they have that. It was moist, fairly tender, and perfectly edible. The finadene is less sour than other versions I’ve had; a bit more on the salty side, and also not very spicy.

The rice was perfect; just moist enough, and great when you hit it with some finadene.

The cabbage salad was basically coleslaw mix with findene on it.

This was not bad; the portion size; especially all the rice was quite generous.

So, Calvin and Daniel decided they wanted to try this stuff. So, I went back like a day later.

Smack n 07

And got two plates.

Starting with what you could consider to be the “mix plate”; “Yona Rules”. Yes, $21.95 might seem a tad expensive; until you open it and see this.

Smack n 08 IMG_7950The kelaguen was still decent, seems like they’ve got their consistency down. I especially enjoyed the Bunuelos Uhang; the shrimp and corn fritters; which was still hot and crispy when I got to the office. Nice sweetness from the corn; yes, it could use more shrimp, but this was seasoned nicely and was a winnah! The lumpia was crisp, though kind of greasy. The chicken and ribs were very much like what I’ve gotten at other Guamanian places; on the try side. The ribs were especially tough and lacked flavor. The chicken, while on the dry side, was decently seasoned, and with a dose of finadene was fine.

I also got BBQ Beef – “chebot”, they have two sizes of their basic plates at Smack’N; chebot means “fat”, while dikike means….well, you can figure it out “small”. Of course with three of us sharing I got the “chebot” ($15.95). It was a lot of beef.

Smack n 10

The beef, while of the dry side was fairly tender. It did need a bunch of finadene to help it out as it was on the bland side.

Honestly; while the beef and the chicken weren’t great, it’s still better than what I’ve had at L&L. Those ribs….well, it would take me some convincing. Smack n 11

The folks here are quite friendly, the portions quite generous. On both visits, the really nice young man, I believe his name is Christian came out to chat with customers. I could see three older women and a man cooking in the kitchen. It’s nice to have a decent change of pace in the area. I’ll come back for the kelaguen (and the Bunuelos Uhang), I’ve got to try the empanadas; though it will take some convincing for me to try those ribs again.

Smack’N Guamanian Grill
9506 Miramar Rd
San Diego, CA 92126
Hours:
Tues – Thurs 11am – 8pm
Fri – Sat    11am – 10pm

Revisits – HiroNori Craft Ramen and Sushi Yaro

A couple of revisits for a busy Monday

HiroNori Craft Ramen:

I had meetings in the Hillcrest area; which conveniently finished at 1130. Sometimes things just work our right. I had wanted to revisit HiroNori since my first couple of visits in March. I was seated at the counter by one of the cheerful staff and of course I ordered the Shoyu Ramen, which I really enjoyed during a previous visit. I guess I really liked the flavor of barrel aged shoyu used for the tare.

So, how would it fare four months later?

HiroNori Rev 01 HiroNori Rev 02The noodles were every bit as good a on my previous visits, with a meaty chew, the chashu tender and "porky", the ajitama was warm and seasoned well. The menma; bamboo shoots were too cold though. The broth was interesting; still good, the tongue feel was excellent for shoyu ramen; still it didn't have that level of complexity; the lightly sweet-umami I enjoyed previously. It was also a bit too salty this time around.

Don't get me wrong; this is still my second favorite ramen in San Diego. But, having had this before, I expect some consistency and this wasn't quite as good as what I'd had previously.

HiroNori Craft Ramen
3803 5th Ave
San Diego, CA 92103 
Open Daily 1130am – 9pm

Sushi Yaro:

**** Sushi Yaro has closed

Well, I hadn't been to Sushi Yaro since our office moved to the UTC area. First off, Sammy stopped doing lunch service, second, well life had just been too busy.

So, a few weeks back, wondering how the place was doing, I decided to head on over.

And ordered my typical sashimi; which delivered. I especially loved the engawa.

Yaro revi

I know, you go into Yaro and see all the really "interesting" rolls…..which is not my thing. But they always have some good fish on hand for old fogies like me.

This hit the spot!

And, as a super bonus, my good friends Candice and Quanito dropped by for some beer as well! Just like old times. I've missed you my friends!

Sushi Yaro
7905 Engineer Road
San Diego, CA 92111