Edinburgh (2022) – Surgeons’ Hall Museums, National Museum of Scotland, Union Brew Lab, and Greyfriars Bobby

**** Not much food in this one; but it has some of my favorite sights/stops from this trip!

Our last full day in Edinburgh would be a busy one. There were several places I had on my "list"; things I just had to see. We headed out from our apartment on Blackfriars Street away from the Royal mile. We enjoyed this change of pace, less tourists, less crowds. And, you never know what you'll come across in Edinburgh. I saw this and decided we just had to turn down Niddry Street South.

IMG_2900

You just never know what you'll see……

IMG_2901

"He Who Is Without Mathematics Shall Not Enter". I guess they'll never let me in here, eh?

Our destination was the Surgeons' Hall Museums.

IMG_2902

Which consists of an amazing Pathology Museum and a Museum of the History of Surgery and Dentistry (ouch). 

IMG_2903

We were blown away by the collection, if you're interested in Medicine (looking at you RD!) and especially surgery and pathology this is a must visit.

Sadly, photos aren't allowed, but this photo somehow jumped into the Missus' phone.

IMG_2640 1

Good lord! There are some "interesting" items in the collection including William Burke's (Remember Burke and Hare) death mask and a pocket book made from his skin!

We'd go to the Musée d'Histoire de la Médecine in Paris on this trip as well, but it doesn't even come close to this Museum!

Surgeons' Hall Museums
Nicolson Street
Edinburgh, Scotland

Well, after the Surgeons' Hall Museums we were feeling a bit peckish……you know what I mean?

Right around the corner on the way to our next stop was a coffee shop that served light dishes named Union Brew Lab. This craft coffee shop was just down the Missus's coffee nerd alley.

IMG_6088

IMG_6086

The location, right around the corner from Edinburgh University was perfect for this shop as we saw students, remote workers, and such.

I got a cold brew (of course).

IMG_2907

The Missus got something or other that came in it's own pot and a sand timer!

IMG_2908

But what really caught the Missus's attention was the Avocado Toast with Smoked Salmon and Dill.

IMG_2905

Like almost all the smoked seafood we had in Scotland, the smoked salmon was so good. Perfectly smoky, great meaty texture, wonderful with mashed avocado, on a nicely toasted sourdough. So basically, this is where the Missus first enjoyed avocado toast, and Boulenc made it an obsession.

Union Brew Lab
6-8 S College St.
Edinburgh, Scotland

IMG_2910

After our light "brunch" our next stop was just a short walk away.

IMG_2925

The huge National Museum of Scotland. Admission is free!

IMG_2924

The museum's collection spans 5 floors with areas that cover history, technology, science, world cultures, and so on. We decided to pare down our visit and find the areas we were really interested in.

For me, it was finding Dolly the Sheep, the world first cloned sheep. Before Dolly, it was thought that cloning a mammal was impossible from an adult cell. Did you know that "Dolly" was named after this Dolly?

IMG_2913

Dolly advanced our knowledge and in her own way was a pioneer. And as is often the case with pioneers there is risk. Dolly was euthanized at the age of six because of progressive lung disease. But she contributed much to mankind. 

We were also visited the Kingdom of Scots Gallery in the museum, where there were some interesting items on display.

IMG_6095

That beastly item above is called "the Maiden" and you know what it was used for right?

There was a lot to see. We were easily confused by the all the Roberts, Duncans, and James in the lineage of Scottish Royalty. I can't say we've got things straight now, but the displays in the museum helped…..a bit…I hope I don't get tested on it.

IMG_6096

National Museum of Scotland
Chambers St.
Edinburgh, Scotland

I was really looking forward to our next stop. It was basically just a minute or two away from the museum. The statue of Greyfriars Bobby.

IMG_2650 1 IMG_6101 Much like Hachikō in Tokyo and our own Bum the Dog, the story of Greyfriars Bobby is the stuff of legends. Much like the story of Hachikō, the story of "Bobby" is one of true loyalty. In abbreviated form it goes as follows. In 1850, John Gray, a gardener, and his family moved to Edinburgh. He was unable to find work as a gardener, so he became a night watchman. Bobby became his companion for those long nights. John Gray caught tuberculosis and died of the disease on February 15th, 1858 and was buried in Greyfriars Kirkyard. Bobby being the loyal companion, refused to leave the side of "partner" and would stay at John Gray's gravesite. Even though the keepers of Greyfriars Kirkyard tried to remove Bobby on many occasions, but to no avail. Eventually, they built Bobby a shelter and he remained loyal to his companion until his death in 1872.

IMG_6106

Baroness Angelia Georgina Burdett-Coutts was so moved by Bobby's story that she asked the City Council for permission to erect a granite fountain with a statue of Bobby placed on top. And that's that you see above. The inscription on the stature reads:

"A tribute to the affectionate fidelity of Greyfriars Bobby. In 1858, this faithful dog followed the remains of his master to Greyfriars Churchyard and lingered near the spot until his death in 1872."

Of course, there's a tavern called Greyfriars Bobby's Bar right across the street. And of course there's the Disney movie as well. And if you check out the statue of Bum the Dog at the Horton-Davis House you'll find a statue of Greyfriars Bobby there too. Remember, Edinburgh and San Diego are sister cities.

IMG_6107

Greyfriars Bobby is buried in Greyfriars Kirkyard which is right down the lane, so we decided to take a look. Greyfriars Kirkyard is also supposedly the most haunted graveyard in the world as well. So of course we had to check it out.

Greyfriars Bobby is buried just inside the gates of the Kirkyard. Instead of flowers people leave sticks for the little fella'.

IMG_6115

His master John Gray is buried nearby.

IMG_2933

I know, it would make sense for Bobby to be buried next to his master….but dogs (or any animal for that manner) cannot be buried in consecrated ground. So Bobby actually got prime territory right at the entrance to the cemetery!

IMG_2928

We took a stroll around the cemetery and had the good fortune of not running into anything "strange". 

IMG_2929

And I think many folks would be interested to know that there's a Harry Potter connection with Greyfriars Kirkland as well.

From here we strolled back to the Royal Mile.

IMG_2934

IMG_2979

We had one more stop before taking a short break.

Thanks for stopping by!

Edinburgh (2022) – Dinner at Restaurant Martin Wishart

We had wanted one blow out meal during our stay in Edinburgh. So after doing some research and then trying to hunt down reservations I came up with Martin Wishart. Even though the one Michelin Star restaurant was in Leith, almost 2 1/2 miles away, we could always catch a cab if we desired. Of course, as things ended up we walked both ways. It was a fairly pleasant walk. Leith was once Edinburgh's seaport and had fallen into disrepair following World War II. But during the early 2000's, the neighborhood has been revitalized and with the mooring of the Royal Yacht Britannia and the conversion of the Ocean Terminal into a shopping center, along with artists, musicians, and designers moving into the area it has been ranked as one of the coolest neighborhoods in the world. Well, we walked on over and the place seemed quite mellow on this Saturday night, we were probably in the wrong area, but we kind of enjoyed the relaxed nature of things.

IMG_2898

We were greeted immediately after entering the restaurant. Service was friendly and professional, though the timing of the dishes was inconsistent as there were a few long waits between dishes. The Sommelier though, was outstanding! He helped the Missus pick Her tasting as if he read Her mind and totally understood Her taste and preferences. 

IMG_6067 IMG_6066

The Missus and I decided to go with the three course "Market Menu" and each had one of the two choices available for the three courses. That way we could taste one of each item available on the menu.

Things started with some delicious bread and the four course amuse bouche featured beetroot and crowdie, cod roe and fennel, potato and smoked egg yolk, and horse radish and celeriac.

IMG_2877

The highlite was the smoked eggyolk and potato, the flavors of each component seemed so intensified

The Sea Bream Tartare was nice though nothing really special.

IMG_2883

Having both the strong flavor of lemon and the brininess of capers was a bit much. The soy foam was fine. The fish had been perfectly prepared and marinated though, the texture was a perfect creamy toothsomeness.

The Roasted Veal Sweetbread was an amazing "earthy" and textural delight.

IMG_6070

The sweetbread was perfectly fried, crisp coating, creamy interior, slightly earthy and mildly sweet with a hint of offal sharpness. The flavors of the morels added another luxurious layer of earthiness with a nutty finish. The broadbeans finished things off nicely along with the wonderful jus.

Another dish that was perfectly prepared was the Roast Peterhead Skatewing.

IMG_2887

The Sauce Grenobloise, featuring brown butter, capers, and good acidity went well with the creamy but mild flavored skate wing. There were a couple of escargot thrown in that really didn't add anything to the dish in our opinion. Loved the confit tomatoes which added a deep acidic fruitiness to the dish. The artichokes were surprisingly creamy.

The Roast Saddle of Dornoch Lamb was wonderfully gamy and meaty, if a bit on the dry side. We loved the rub and sear on this.

IMG_6080

This version of Pomme Salardaise, basically garlic potatoes with a good amount of fat, was almost like a creamy croquette. Speaking of croquette, that's a wonderfully porky and crisp fried pork belly on the bottom left which almost looks like one, doesn't it? The asparagus was crisp, fresh, and mildly sweet. The jus featured thyme which was used judiciously and didn't interfere with the overall flavor of the dish.

For dessert the Missus chose the Passion Fruit Creme Fraiche Tart.

IMG_2893

Which She enjoyed saying it was both refreshing and quite rich.

I chose the Cheese Course (an extra £10 supplement).

IMG_6082  IMG_2891 I wish I took notes on the cheeses. That bleu was fabulous! And like I mentioned earlier the Sommelier was fabulous. When I asked for a "Spot of Port" to go with the cheeses, he selected an amazing Tawny that was perfect with the bleu!

We took the macaroons and "stuffs" to go because we were "stuffed".

IMG_2897

The Missus enjoyed these during the rest of our stay in Edinburgh.

Overall, professional but not stuffy service. A bit slow and off in the pacing as the evening wore on, probably due to staffing. The Sommelier was amazing.

Restaurant Martin Wishart
54 The Shore
Edinburgh, Scotland

We then hoofed it back to the apartment. Even though it was a Saturday evening things were pretty quiet as we walked back which was unexpected, but we enjoyed.

IMG_2899

We had one more full day in Edinburgh, and we'd try to make the best of it.

IMG_6081

Thanks for stopping by!

Khao Karr Moo to go From Koon Thai

I was a bit later than usual on one of my shopping forays to Nijiya. It was almost 11am, so I thought I'd get some lunch to go for myself. It had been over a year since I'd done takeout from Koon Thai and I thought it would be nice to have the Khao Karr Moo…actually my first pick would be the Pad Cha Pork Wing, but that hasn't been on the menu for a while. It must have been my lucky day; it was ten till eleven and Koon Thai was already open.

Koon Rev 01

So, I just sauntered in, placed my order and paid my $15.50…..it had only gone up 50 cents since my last visit and then headed off to do my shopping. 

When I headed back to the restaurant, the young man working saw me thru the window and actually handed me my food on the sidewalk! Very nice as there were several people standing in line at the entrance of the restaurant.

I headed home and unpacked everything.

Koon Rev 02

This actually looked a lot better then what I had last time. It looked much less greasy. I went and plated half the rice, which was fragrant if just a bit on the dry side, and the khao karr moo.

Koon Rev 03  Koon Rev 04   The eggs were decently cooked, much better than the over-cooked boiled eggs I'd had last time. The sauce was nicely flavored, not overly sweet, good anise-soy sauce tones.

Like before, I wish there was a bit more preserved mustard greens as it really helps to cut the salt and richness of the pork leg.

Koon Rev 05

As for the pork, even though there were some dry and tough parts and perhaps a bit too Koon Rev 06 much fat for my taste, it wasn't bad at all. At least I didn't go hungry. Overall, it was better than what I'd had the last time, the price wasn't too bad, and I'll take that.

Koon Thai Kitchen
3860 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111

Koon Rev 07

Takeout from Village Kitchen

**** You can find an updated takeout post here.

The Missus has been craving some spicy Chinese food. Sadly, the state of Hunan and Sichuan cuisine in San Diego seems to have gone down over the last few years. Taste of Hunan came to mind, but in the end we decided on Village Kitchen for takeout. I've learned my lesson with ordering from Village Kitchen; online is never ready on time and there's an extra charge. When I tried to call in my order they answered in Mandarin and as soon as I spoke English, they hung up on me. So, I decided to drive on over. Hard to believe it's been a year-and-a-half since I last visited!

Village K Rev 01

The menu these days is on QR code, which I'm very comfortable with; though some of the dishes were only written in Chinese. Luckily, the one person at VK I like, the former Server from Kangxi is Coming was working. She's wonderful! Sadly, the one dish the Missus wanted, the La Rou with Cucumber Skin is no longer on the menu. And after not enjoying the Eggplant and Green Chili with Preserved Egg the last two times we tried it…..well, the Missus didn't want that either.

I did find two dishes that I thought the Missus would enjoy, both with La Rou (cured smoked pork) and both featured crunchy, preserved veggies which is what the Missus was craving.

So I got the preserved dried long beans with La Rou and the preserved radish skin with La Rou.

Village K Rev 02

The Missus preferred the version with the dried long bean as it had a nice salty "crunch" to it and while the pork was a bit overly chewy and hard, the smoky flavor came thru nicely. This was also much more spicy than the radish version, and the nice and pungent whole cloves of garlic went well in this dish.

Village K Rev 03

We didn't enjoy the radish skin version as much.

Village K Rev 04

This wasn't quite as spicy and the radish skin, while crisp, didn't have as much bright briny-savory-saltiness as the long beans.

Still, the Missus had been craving some spicy-smoky Chinese, so that's what we got. Man, I haven't been eating as much spicy food since the pandemic started, so I got those sweat glands going! Luckily the weather has been on the cooler side and the Missus got Her "fix" in!

Village Kitchen
4720 Clairemont Mesa Blvd
San Diego, CA 92117

Sorry, No Treats, Just Tricks This Year – Still Having Problems with Blog

Well, after failing to complete the server move after 36 hours, waved the white flag and said it was going to "regroup".

And they have been trying to restore service for the last 14 hours.

I'm able to get into my Typepad account now, but am still unable to post photos and photos are not displaying either.

So no Halloween photos this year, but here's one I posted to Flickr this morning.

Please have a fun and safe Halloween!

Hope to be back soon.

Link

Sorry about the lack of posts – Having Issues with Typepad

Sorry about the lack of posts. I'm certain that many of you have been encountering 503 errors when trying to access our humble little blog.

This has been going on for two weeks. This past weekend Typepad moved to a new server. Unfortunately there are now even more problems. The foremost being the inability to upload photos to posts.

In case you're wondering; here are the links to the Twitter posts -I would do screenshots, but of course I can't upload images.

1583747089292369920

1585364937140236288

1585625279871025152

1585721066894376962

And then of course, there's more "fun" instore:

"Typepad will be conducting additional maintenance this coming weekend to address lingering issues as part of the continued migration to the new data center."

I'm still eating and taking photos of food and hopefully will be back posting soon!

I'll respond to comments when I'm able. Sorry to say that I'm not receiving comments and notifications (i.e. my Help Ticket updates) until sometimes 12 hours after the comments posted.

Wish me luck!

The Spam and Egg “Banh Mi” from Cali Banh Mi (Convoy)

Last weekend I went about doing my "Sunday" rounds which involved a stop at Sprouts and Lazy Acres (both open at 7), then Target and 99 Ranch Market (both open at 8), then ending things at Nijiya (open at 9). I must have had some major momentum on this day because there I was heading out of 99 Ranch Market at 820! Now how did that happen? One thing for sure, all that shopping sure did make me hungry. I still had quite a bit of time before Nijiya opened, so I thought I'd grab something quick for breakfast. And then I realized that my options in the area, unless it was for a sit down breakfast or something from a taco shop were really limited. Phuong Nga Bakery and Cafe would be an obvious choice, but they are closed on weekends, Sau Voi Deli has closed, and Grab & Go on Convoy Court is closed on weekends as well. I recall places in the area that used to be open before 10am but think that "Covid" times have changed things.

Well, there was one option left; Cali Banh Mi.

Cali Banh Mi Rev 01

I used to drop by every so often when this was Cali Baguette Express, I'm not sure what the story is, but this location became Cali Banh Mi, along with a location on Garnet and things have just not been the same. Especially the bread. Now, I had visited this location back in June of 2020 and left unimpressed. But heck, it had been over two years since that visit, so I thought "why not"?

Cali Banh Mi Rev 02

The last time I visited there was no indoor dining allowed, now the place looked alot more "normal".

Cali Banh Mi Rev 03

What was not a nice change was the price of the banh mi I wanted. The Spam and Egg is now $9! Whoa! When I last ordered that at the Garnet location it was six bucks and I thought it expensive then! The jumbo size Banh Mi Dac Biet I got from Phuong Nga in August was $6.19, later that month I got one from Avian Sandwiches that was $6.95.

Anyway, I got my banh mi and drove down to the Nijiya parking lot. Yep, this was going to be one of those "eat on the hood of your car" kinda thing. I opened things up to reveal this nine-dollar banh mi.

Cali Banh Mi Rev 04 Cali Banh Mi Rev 05  So, I peeled back the bread to reveal watery, runny, flavorless eggs, and though the Spam slices were fairly thick they lacked color. I recall trying to order a Banh Mi Op La here and the young man working had no idea what I was saying…probably my (mis) pronunciation though.

The jalapenos lacked heat, though maybe I just got the "luck of the draw" with that. The pickled veggies were fine, but the bread was terrible. The crust was too soft, the bread too doughy. It lacked the light crisp-crusty exterior and the interior was mushy and doughy instead of airy and yeasty.

This was just not very good, even for an "Americanized" banh mi.

Cali Banh Mi Rev 06

Well, at least I gave them another try. I should have just waited and got something from the deli at Nijiya. Live and learn, I guess.

Cali Banh Mi
4425 Convoy Street
San Diego, CA 92111
Hours:
Daily 8am – 7pm

Dining In at Pho Duyen Mai and How to Get “Them Bones” (Xí Quách Suon Bò) Now

**** Pho Duyen Mai is under new ownership 

I have really been enjoying the recent cooler weather. It has given me the chance to "catch up" on places that I hadn't visited in quite a while. And now that I've started dining in, albeit with some caution, I have started "making my rounds". In my post on Pho Lucky's reopening, I mentioned wanting to return to Pho Duyen Mai. In the comments section "FOY" Dereck noted a recent visit to Duyen Mai and indicated that "the soup was pretty good the noodles were a disaster. Literally there was a pile of little pieces floating around halfway through the bowl." So, I really wanted to check things out. Luckily, it was about time for Calvin and me to have our "monthly" lunch. And since Duyen Mai opens at 10am, we could minimize the chances of a lunch crowd.

I arrived a bit early, about a quarter to ten and Duyen Mai was already open.

Duyen Mai Rev 01

We looked over the menu and then asked the woman who always works here if they still served the rib bones (Xí Quách Suon Bò). She told us that they still serve them, but only after 1230pm and that there's a limited amount each day. So, we were too early on his day.

Calvin remembered that I used to order the Nem Nuong Cuon from here for the crew at work and we had an order of those to start.

Duyen Mai Rev 02

Decently wrapped, herbs and veggies fresh, crisp fried egg roll wrapper along with a lightly grilled nem nuong. I call these "Brodard light". The dipping sauce was a bit too mild for my taste. Still, not bad for San Diego.

Duyen Mai Rev 03

As for my pho, I got the #27. Well done steak, brisket, flank, tendon, and tripe – a small is now $11.50.

Duyen Mai Rev 04 Duyen Mai Rev 05  The herbs and sprouts were sparkling fresh, though there was no ngo gai. The broth was quite clear, perhaps a bit too defatted for me. It was also "sweeter" than I prefer and quite "salty" but better than what I'd recently consumed at Pho Lucky, at least in terms of beefiness. There was a very mild hint of anise flavor in the broth as well.

Dereck had mentioned the noodles being in little pieces during his meal. This wasn't the case for us, but even though the noodles weren't clumped together, they were overcooked and mushy.

Duyen Mai Rev 06

As for the proteins. Overall, minus not having the Xí Quách Suon Bò, this might be the best beef I've had at Duyen Mai. Other than the well done steak which was "cardboardish", the flank was beefy and firm, the tripe had a nice crunch without being hard and rubbery, the brisket was super tender with nice "bovine" tones, and the tendon was decently tender.

Duyen Mai Rev 07 Duyen Mai Rev 08  Admittedly, I was disappointed in not being to get "Dem Bones", but this was an ok bowl of pho especially for the Kearny Mesa area, which may have the most KFC, hot pot, and such, but seems to have seriously fallen off with regards to Vietnamese cuisine over the past decade.

I'll probably return for the pho with Xí Quách Suon Bò.

Pho Duyen Mai
5375 Kearny Villa Rd
San Diego, CA 92123
Current Hours:
Wed – Mon 10am – 9pm
Closed on Tuesdays
"Them Bones" (Xí Quách Suon Bò) served after 1230pm

Duyen Mai Rev 09

Edinburgh (2022) – Edinburgh Castle, Edinburgh Farmer’s Market, Statue of Bum, The Golden Mile, and Cheese From I.J. Mellis

**** Not much food in this one. Though if you like to see a San Diego connection and castles and such, this post might be for you. I'll try to keep things as brief as possible

Our two whole days in Edinburgh would be fairly full. I know that a visit to Edinburgh Castle is pretty much a must and since we'd be in Edinburgh over a weekend, I made sure to get tickets for the castle online with an entry time of right when they opened at 930.

One good thing about our AirBnb on Blackfriars street was its location right off the Royal Mile. So the walk was pretty easy.

IMG_2809

IMG_2810 IMG_6016   We walked past places that would become all too familiar during our short stay in Edinburgh, like the St Giles Cathedral, which we'd visit the following day and the distinctive former Tolbooth Church, which is now a building known as the "Hub".

We were going to be early for our reservations, so we hovered off Castle Hill onto Johnson Terrace, before heading up the steps to the entrance to the castle.

IMG_2811

IMG_2812

I'm glad I booked tickets online as we got to go right on in and didn't have to wait in line. I also received a guide to Edinburgh Castle for free. As there were really only a couple of places in the castle complex that I wanted to see, we kind of just made sure to see those, like the crown jewels (where photos aren't allowed), we just went to those places and stopped whenever something caught our attention.

Because of where folks gathered, our first stop was below the Great Hall; the Prisons of War.

IMG_2816

The vaults below the Great Hall and Queen Anne Building were first used as a prison during the Seven Years' War and by the end of the war held over 500 prisoners here. The vaults became a prison again during the American Revolution and the French Revolutionary Wars

IMG_2824

The Missus did think that they ate pretty well based on this display.

IMG_2825

And of course, there are the stories; like the one I read about when a prisoner tried to escape by hiding in a dung cart. Unfortunately, the cart was emptied by being tipped over the walls and the prisoner supposedly died. Which, according to this post may or may not be true, the post also notes that the ghost of this prisoner still haunts the castle where you smell, well, you know what, while the ghost tries to push you over the walls of the castle.

We visited the Great Hall….

IMG_2836
IMG_2836

Took in the view from the Argyle Battery.

IMG_6032
IMG_6032

And when we got to Mons Meg, well, I totally forgot to take a photo because it had a view of one of the places I had wanted to see, the Edinburgh Castle Dog Cemetery.

IMG_2840

Which was established in 1837 as the burial place for regimental mascots and soldier's pet pooches.

We took "aim" from Dury's Battery.

IMG_6025

IMG_2839

And explored the National War Museum.

IMG_6034

Where along with the memorabilia and paintings of soldiers like Lieutenant James Irving above, we saw this.

IMG_6033

That's Bob the dog who was the Regimental Pet of the Scots Fusilier Guards, 1st Battalion, from 1853 – 1860. According to this site:

"The regiment adopted Bob when it was based at Windsor in 1853. A year later he accompanied it to the Crimean War where he distinguished himself by chasing cannonballs at the Battle of Inkerman. In recognition of his courage, he was awarded the special silver medal attached to his collar."

We also visited the Royal Palace. Edinburgh Castle was the principle royal residence from the 11th to the 17th century, so many familiar names resided here.

IMG_6019

IMG_6023

Upon glancing upon the Scottish and British Royal Coat of Arms, I noticed something.

IMG_6022

The Unicorn, the national animal of Scotland is wrapped in chains. I was wondering why and came across this.

We'd been exploring for a couple of hours at this point and things were getting crowded.

IMG_2843
IMG_2843
IMG_2843

We headed out of the castle and down Johnstone Terrace.

IMG_2846

But instead of heading East and back to the Royal Mile, we headed west. It was Saturday, which is when Edinburgh's Farmer's Market took place, so we walked on over to King's Stables Road to check out the Farmer's Market.

IMG_6042

IMG_6044
IMG_6044  IMG_6050  It wasn't a very large farmer's market, at least on this day. But the Missus did find some soap She loved. And folks were really friendly and nice.

Edinburgh Farmers' Market
NCP Castle Terrace Car Park
Castle Terrace, Edinburgh, Scotland
Saturday 9am – 2pm

I had another ulterior motive for heading in this direction. I was looking for a specific statue with a San Diego connection. 

Near the end of King's Stables Road is a church – the Parish Church of St. Cuthbert.

IMG_2849

And nope, this has nothing to do with the church's cemetery.

IMG_2851

But right along one of the walls is a familiar statue. Do you recognize it?

IMG_6054

Yes, it's Bum the Dog! I had done a post on the statue of Bum and his story back in June and mentioned an Edinburgh link.

This explains it. Edinburgh and San Diego are sister cities!

IMG_6056

I considered this "mission accomplished" for the day. We decided to return to our accommodations.

Instead of returning by heading around Edinburgh Castle via Princes Street Gardens, we decided to make a U-turn and head back via Castle Terrace and Victoria Street, then head back via the Royal Mile.

We ran into a craft fair on the way back.

IMG_6061
IMG_6061

And did some shopping and browsing on the way back. We stopped in at a cheese shop I had on my list; I.J. Mellis and I ended up getting a sampler pack for our lunch back at the apartment.

Once back on the Royal Mile, I went looking for some rather obscure things. Like this one.

IMG_2859

Apparently, this is the sight of the last public execution in Edinburgh. It is also said that Deacon Brodie, was hung somewhere near here. And to pile on with the irony, remember in this post I mentioned that Deacon Brodie designed the gallows that would be used to hang him. Kitty-corner from here sits Deacon Brodie's Pub!

IMG_2860

Right before St. Giles Cathedral is this mosaic heart.

IMG_2861

This is the Heart of Midlothian, which has quite a backstory. Everything I read said that folks spit on this a lot…..so perhaps it's not the best place to stand on and take your selfie????

Speaking of St. Giles Cathedral.

IMG_2863

Well, we'd be visiting the following day, but there was something I wanted to see….in the parking lot.

John Knox founded the Presbyterian Church of Scotland and was a leader of the Scottish Reformation. John Knox was buried in St. Giles cemetery. Well, you may say that St. Giles has no cemetery. Because this is prime real estate, those in St. Giles cemetery were (supposedly) moved in the 17th century. But John Knox was (supposedly) not moved. So, if you'd like to find John Knox's grave it's in parking stall 23….

IMG_2864

Yes, for real. On this day there were no cars parked in that stall, so I managed to get a photo. What's the saying? "Reality is stranger than fiction."

IMG_2865

IMG_2866

As we were walking along the Royal Mile I saw a couple of these structures.

IMG_2868

These are Wellheads. This was the source of water for folks in the Old Town until the mid-1800's! Yikes!

We got back to the apartment. The owners were amazing as they had stocked the fully functional kitchen with coffee, cereal, bread, and such. 

IMG_2808

Because we had our "blowout" dinner in Edinburgh scheduled for this evening, having some bread and the cheese we picked up the I.J. Mellis made sense. I'd actually wanted to get stuff from the actual cheese monger, but they were super busy so I just went with a prepackaged sampler which was fine.

IMG_2870

The blue cheese was especially good. I'll make sure to check them out again if I'm ever back in Edinbugh.

I.J. Mellis Cheesemonger
30A Victoria St.
Grassmarket, Edinburgh, Scotland

Next up, dinner at Martin Wishart. And yes, they'll be much more food in that post!

Thanks for stopping by!

Oaxaca (2022) – Jalatlaco, Lunch at El Pozolito, and Dinner at Zandunga

Barrio Jalatlaco was undeniably beautiful. The colors so vibrant. It also seemed sleepy and relaxed compared to Oaxaca Central, almost as if you'd entered a whole different city.

IMG_0839
IMG_0839

The street art was glorious and it was everywhere.

IMG_0845
IMG_0845
IMG_0845

Some of it was quite modern in tone……like really up to date!

IMG_0851 IMG_0856   Jalatlaco was the location of a Zapotec village before the arrival of the Spaniards. Jalatlaco in Zapotec means "Sand Canyon". We were told that Jalatlaco looks basically the same as it did a century ago, which is quite amazing.

It was wonderful just wandering the cobbled streets, enjoying the colors and the street art, with nary another person in sight. There seemed to be something almost magical about the place.

I'm tempted to want to stay in the area next time, but maybe not…….I really don't want to spoil what looks like the true local beauty of the barrio.

Here's a wonderful article on Jalatlaco.

IMG_0849
IMG_0849
IMG_0849

Soon enough, it was time for an "early" lunch. We headed back down to Mercado 20 de Noviembre to see if anything caught our eye.

IMG_0858

We wandered around the mercado a bit but nothing caught our attention.

IMG_0859

So we decided to take a look elsewhere.

About a block form the mercado we saw this little restaurant.

IMG_0871

And you can tell by the name what they specialize in, right?

IMG_0860

And the Missus keeps looking for pozole that She enjoys more then what I make at home. So, it seems like we found a place for lunch. It seemed like a place that locals came to eat.

IMG_0866

And the pirces were right, the pozole was only $50/MX per bowl – about $2.50/US. Over time the Missus has come to prefer pozole blanco and She was happy that they served that here. I went with the pozole rojo.

IMG_0861

All the base "sides" were delivered and two salsas as well. 

And soon enough our bowls of pozole arrived.

IMG_0869

It was quite obvious that the meat had been separated from the broth and then placed into the bowl after the soup and "salsa" as some of the pieces of pork were lukewarm. The pozole rojo wasn't bad; a bit on the milder side but that was quickly rectified when I added more salsa rojo. Decently porky and pretty basic and simple overall.

The Missus thought the blanco could have used more porkiness and added a good amount of salt as well.

IMG_0868

The Hominy wasn't to the Missus liking as it was too mushy for Her taste. She's become so picky about Her pozole!

Still, it was a really inexpensive lunch and we enjoyed the atmosphere.

El Pozolito
Rayón 102
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, Mexico

We then went and did a bit of shopping before heading back to our room and taking a nice afternoon nap.

IMG_0878

We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing before heading out to dinner. Of course we left for dinner early as we wanted to check out what was going on at the Zocalo.

And the police were back teaching children how to ride bicycles and running the bike safety puppet show.

IMG_0881

And "the Band" was in fine form on this evening!

IMG_0882

There was quite a bit going on!

IMG_0885  IMG_0888 We headed up Macedonio Alcalá. This was a Saturday evening so there were folks everywhere. Things were lively, but not out of control.

Folks were just hanging with friends, hanging with pooches, listening to music, there seemed to be musicians or bands situated on almost every corner, plaza, and jardin.

We walked up to Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán before heading over one block to our dinner destination.

IMG_0890

IMG_0889

IMG_0891

IMG_0893 (2)

I had gone ahead and made dinner reservations ahead of time for every other night in Oaxaca. And since this was a Saturday evening, I thought having reservations made sense. I had been interested in trying the cuisine of the Istmus region and after doing a bit of research had made reservations at Zanduga.

IMG_0908

Like Los Danzantes the dining area was in a lovely courtyard area.

IMG_0907

And just like Los Danzantes, the customer base seemed to be mostly tourists….

IMG_0900

We were still fairly full from lunch, so we ordered the Botana Zandunga, a variety of Istmeno appetizers, some soup, and the seasonal fish appetizer.

First to arrive was the Sopa de Frijol, which would turn out to be the our favorite item of the night.

IMG_0903

Very beany, smooth, and rich. Nicely seasoned, this went well with the provided avocado slices and tortillas.

The Botana Zandunga was a collection of "greatest hits" if you will.

IMG_0904

From the bottom left, the tamal de cambray was dry and bland, the molotes de platano was cold and dry, the guacamole was quite good, the garnaches, which I had been excited to try was dry, cold, and bland, the pico de gallo had dried shrimp which seemed interesting but wasn't anything special.

Last to arrive was the Pescado de Temporada, what basically read as "seasonal fish". Looking at the menu, I saw that it was herb marinated with hoja santa, which the Missus loves. 

IMG_3707

Unfortunately, this was too mealy and fishy for the Missus. I didn't think it was too bad, especially with the salsas on tlayudas.

Service was quite good, but the food just wasn't to our taste. Looks like I was oh-fer-two with the places I'd made reservations at.

I remembered when I told Betsy we had reservations here; she told me that having tried Zandunga twice, she wasn't too impressed. She was right.

Zandunga
Calle de Manuel García Vigil 512
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, Mexico

Of course we passed thru the Zocalo on the way back to our room. The bicycle thing was still going on. Well, it was a Saturday night after all.

IMG_0909

A gentleman saw me really enjoying watching the police kids and the public interacting and started talking to me. He told me that once upon a time the police in Oaxaca were among the toughest, meanest, and unfriendly officers in Mexico. Then after dealing with that for years the public voted in a whole different set of politicians. The police created outreach/community relations programs and this changed things. Watching him talk to the officers, I'm sure this gentleman was some kind of neighborhood liaison or politician.

 And here the "Policia Vial" (Road Police) officers were dancing with the public!

IMG_0911

Now when was the last time you saw that?

IMG_0910

I couldn't help but smile.