Category: Cooking

Man, it been a while since I did a recipe post. I have been doing a great deal of cooking, though most of it has been free-form, without recipes. This one started out that way, but I've made it many times, so I finally went ahead and measured things.

It started out with incorporating the stems and ribs of chard in recipes using standard items from our pantry. In the end, I came up with this recipe that utilizes the stems of the chard, what I call "quad tomatoes", that is tomato paste, sundried tomatoes (and oil), and cherry tomatoes. And things start with pancetta. Initially, my inspiration came from a Kale with Pesto dish from Tribute Pizza and like my Balsamic Brussels, I used bacon as the base. But after a couple of go arounds, we found that we preferred pancetta, and chard, which is more tender than kale.

It ain't the prettiest dish.

But the Missus likes it with black lentils topping roasted cauliflower. I like it with bread as an appetizer, or mixed into a warm salad or even topping pasta/mashed cauliflower.

Along with the diced chard stems, I use onions, garlic, and cherry tomatoes.

I also use double concentrated tomato paste, both sun dried tomatoes and the olive oil from the tomatoes, and garlic paste to adjust seasoning.

Another key point is that I don't add salt until after I mix in the pesto and taste. I squeeze out the olive oil from the sun dried tomatoes to help make that tablespoon. Please check the label on the pesto you use; make sure it has pine nuts, olive oil, and at least Pecorino Romano cheese on the ingredient list. Of course it should have Basil….I've seen so called "pesto" using spinach! Or just make your own!

Chard with Pesto, Pancetta, and Tomatoes

2-3 oz Pancetta sliced into lardons
1 bunch Chard leaves stems and large ribs removed.
1 cup Minced Chard stems
1/2 (about 1 cup) Onion diced
1 Tb Sun Dried Tomatoes in Olive Oil minced
1 Tb Olive Oil from Sun Dried Tomatoes
3-4 Cloves Garlic minced
1 Tsp Oregano
2Tb + 2Tb Extra Virgin Olive Oil
3Tb (More if needed) Double Concentrated Tomato Paste
Garlic Paste (if needed)
1 cup Cherry Tomatoes halved
2 Tb Crisp White Wine
1-2 Tb Balsamic Vinegar
3-4 Tb (More if needed) Pesto
Salt and Pepper to taste

Add 2 Tb Extra Virgin Olive Oil to a pan along with Pancetta and cook over medium heat to render out the fat.
Remove Pancetta to paper towel lined bowl once cooked.
Turn heat up to high and add 2Tb EVOO (to the rendered pancetta fat), chard stems, diced onion, sun dried tomatoes, oil from sun dried tomatoes, oregano, and garlic to pan and saute.
Once onions turn translucent and ingredients start to soften add cherry tomatoes and stir.
Add white wine to deglaze, then add Balsamic vinegar and saute.
When the tomatoes start to break down stir to move all ingredients to the edges of pan.
Add chard to pan. I also then add an additional 2Tb EVOO on top of the chard.

Fold chard into other ingredients. When chard starts to soften I stir and mix well.
When the chard mixture has reached the desired texture, I lower the heat and mix in the pesto.
When pesto is mixed in, I turn off the heat, taste, and add fresh ground black pepper, salt, and more pesto if desired, and mix well.
I usually then remove to a large storage container for use. Top with crisp Pancetta when serving.

I also use the same technique using merguez, harissa, cumin, and coriander for a similar dish which went well with couscous.

As I mentioned in previous posts, this is more about technique than a precise recipe. If you try it out, let me know how it goes!

Have a great week!

It's been a while since I've done a recipe post and I thought I should get this done before "soup weather" leaves us!

I'm sure long time readers recall that I will make duck confit and then my version of Cassoulet every year. Well, since we've been getting the amazing Cassoulet Beans from Rancho Gordo and also the Garlic Sausage from D'Artagnan; well, it became a regular item…..until the Missus decided that She preferred having a bean soup with these flavors. So, I started making a Cassoulet-ish bean soup.

We've been ordering from Rancho Gordo a couple of times a year since right before the pandemic started. And when they started having the cassoulet beans….really these are from Tarbais seed stock. Tarbais are AOC protected and are also really expensive to boot. I used to use Flageolet Beans; until I tried these. I've also used Rancho Gordo's "Marcella" beans, especially since RG will often run out of Cassoulet beans; a type of Cannellini Beans as well. If you'd like an interesting guide to beans with recipes, I still open up my copy of the Rancho Gordo Heirloom Bean Guide every so often.

Anyway, we had the bean thing and the French Garlic Sausage thing solved.

But what happens when I run out of duck confit to make my soup? Well, I'm really not going to make more until next year, or maybe not for even longer. And ordering duck confit? Man, that's a bit too pricey since I was (and am) making this bean soup every 2-3 weeks these days!

Then one day I used something we always have on hand from D'Artagnan; duck rillette. And these days; the Missus prefers that version to the one that used the duck confit!

When I first started making this….it kinda looked like this.

After making adjustments to the recipe….well, I've had over a year-and-a-half to work on things; this is what it looks like these days.

The two big additions to the soup are tomato paste and a touch of tarragon

Well, and there is the eternal bean query; "to soak or not to soak"…..that is the question. After trying several different techniques (here's a good primer from the Rancho Gordo website); I now always soak my beans overnight. An additional bonus to this….I use 2 cups of the soaking liquid in the soup. As for that flatulence thing; I'm not quite sure what it is, but since I've used beans from Rancho Gordo and soaked them overnight, the Missus and our good friend "Alle" are both surprised that there's no, ahem "music involved". Strange…..but we'll take it!

Anyway, here's the base recipe……I've noted items that are "optional" in my opinion, but of course, this is made to our taste, so adjust away!

Cassoulet Soup:

Day 1 – The Beans
1 Lb dry Cassoulet(Tarbais), Marcella (Cannellini), or Flageolet beans
Water to soak

Late on the evening before making the soup, soak the dried beans in enough water to cover by 2-3 inches. The beans will soak up the water and expand, make sure to check the water level several times.

Day 2 – Let make some soup

2 Tb Duck Fat
2 Tb Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 – 1Lb French Garlic Sausage cut in half, then lengthwise into quarters
4-6 Ounces Diced Pancetta (optional)
6 Ounces Duck Rillette
1 1/2 Cup Diced celery
1 1/2 Cup Diced Carrots
2 Cups Diced Yellow Onion – about 1 medium
3 Tb Double Concentrated Tomato Paste (optional) – to start
1/2 Cup minced garlic (yes, for real)
1 Cup Crisp Sauvignon Blanc
2-3 Bay Leaves
1 1/2 Tb Dried Turkish/Mediterranean Oregano – to start
1 Tsp Dried Thyme
1/2 Tsp Dried Tarragon (optional)
6-8 Cups Water
2 Bunches Chard sliced thinly
Kosher Salt and Pepper to taste
Garlic Paste/Double Concentrated Tomato Paste/Maldon Smoked Salt/Granulated Garlic – to adjust flavors as necessary

-Drain beans over a bowl to reserve soaking liquid
-Saute the sliced French Garlic Sausage in duck fat and olive oil over medium heat to render fat in a large pot/Dutch Oven
-Remove sausage when slightly browned and set aside
-Add Pancetta and Duck Rillette to pot stirring constantly
-Once pancetta turns translucent add onion and garlic
-Once onions softens add celery, carrots, and tomato paste(if using), stirring often
-After a minute or two, crush bay leaves, oregano, thyme, and tarragon (if using) and stir into the pot.
-Once fragrant, add drained beans to pot and mix well
-Deglaze with white wine
-When wine has reduced add in two cups of bean soaking liquid and 6 cups of water
-Bring to a slow-low simmer. Do not cover the pot all the way. Check every 30 minutes add hot water as necessary
-*Optional step, the Missus likes Her bean soup at a "stoupy" (soupy-stewy), so when the beans are soft, I'll remove some and mash by hand and add back to the soup until desired consistency is reached
-Slice browned Garlic Sausage cross wise into thin slices, add to soup. and bring back to a simmer
-Once simmering, add the sliced Chard and bring back to a simmer
-After 30 minutes, taste, add more salt and pepper if needed, and adjust other seasonings.

The Missus enjoys Hers with micro cilantro, a good dose of Pasolivo Olive Oil, and usually more salt.

I like mine with micro cilantro, olive oil, and fried jalapenos for an extra kick.

Man, those beans from Rancho Gordo are so good…..and I'll do a post on Pozole using their hominy soon!

Have a happy and safe Easter!

**** I'm dedicating this post to "FOY" Lynnea, who has been asking for this recipe for a while. Sorry I took so long getting around to it!

With our recent cold spell; I thought I'd finally get around to doing a post on my mushroom soup. I know "FOY" Lynnea asked for it a couple of years ago. 

   Honestly, it ain't the most photogenic soup around, but it packed with flavor. It's also not a "large portion" soup; but really good as a starter with some toasted bread, a drizzle of good EVOO and so forth.

There are a couple of interesting things about this recipe:

1 – These days, I'm not big on measuring things out; but this recipe is an exception. I do measure quite a few things out and even weigh out the porcini mushrooms; which are quite pricey, the cremini mushrooms, etc.

2 – One of the key ingredients to this recipe is my mushroom broth/stock it adds another nice layer of flavor. When I make a batch; I always portion the stock out in 1 1/2 containers, specifically for making this soup.

3 – I have very few innovative ideas and this recipe is not exception. It is based on Jacques Pepin's  Dried and Fresh Mushroom Soup recipe in his cookbook, Essential Pepin. I thought the recipe interesting, but when I made it was quite bland for our taste. I made a bunch of changes to the recipe, but kept what I thought was the heart of it; in "essense " (no pun intended), to me the base of the recipe is the use of potato and leeks….so, you could say, it potato leek soup in disguise.

4 – Jacques Pepin also uses porcini soaked in milk; I soak my porcini in hot water, but use 1 1/2 cups of which I strain and use 1 cup for the soup and save 2-3 tablespoons which I add to heavy cream, instead of milk.

Anyway, here goes…..

Mushroom Soup:
1/2 Ounce Dried Porcini Mushroom soaked in 1 1/2 Cup Hot Water for 1 hour
1 cup + 2-3 Tb Porcini Soaking Liquid
1 1/2 cup Mushroom Stock
1 Tb Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1/4 Cup Crisp-High Acidity White Wine (I usually use a Sauvignon Blanc)
4 Ounces Cremini Mushroom
1 1/2 Cup Slice Leek
1 10-12 ounce russet potato cubed
1 Cup Hot Water
1/4 Cup Heavy Cream
1/2 tsp Turkish (or similar) Oregano
Salt and Pepper to taste

• While Porcini Mushrooms are soaking…
  – Slice Cremini Mushrooms. Set aside slices for garnish. You can either keep them in slices or slice to matchsticks for garnish or a little of both
  – Slice the leeks
  – Once the porcini have soaked – remove the mushrooms and chop finely.
  – Save and strain the remaining porcini soaking liquid. Keep one cup of the liquid in a cup and another 2-3 tablespoons on the side
  – Add mushrooms to a cold pot. Turn up heat to medium-high and let sit until the mushrooms start giving up its liquid before stirring
  – Add chopped porcini, leek, oregano, and saute until fragrant
  – Add white wine to deglaze
  – Add mushroom stock, 1 cup of porcini soaking liquid, and hot water.
  – While bringing the liquid up to a simmer, peel and cube the potato
  – When soup starts to boil add the potatoes
  – Simmer gently for 30-45 minutes
  – Add 2-3 tablespoons reserved porcini liquid to the heavy cream and set aside
  – Once potatoes are very soft, put into a blender and process until smooth
  – Pour blended soup back into pot and heat to a low simmer
  – Add mushrooms and fold in Heavy Cream mixture
  – Serve

When making for friends….our good friend "Alle's" mom loves this soup; I reserve the slices and add in after blending. The Missus prefers Hers without the mushroom slices and garnish and just uses a good Extra Virgin Olive Oil and crusty bread. As always, make it the way you want.

So, there you go Lynnea, I hope you try this out and enjoy it. Thanks for being so patient!