Category: Cooking

The Missus has been on a over roasted vegetable tear since we've returned from vacation…. we've been roasting vegetables almost daily so She can get Her fix. Bless Her heart, when the Missus is obsessed with something, She can eat it every day for weeks, sometimes months. There's a broccoli dish that I'm almost embarrassed to mention that She eats several times a week!

I on the other hand, need to have a bit of variety. Sitting staring at a pound of oyster mushrooms, having a bit of time on my hands, I decided to make a balsamic glaze……. one of the easiest things in the world. There's really no reason for buying the stuff from the supermarket. In this case. all it took was 1 cup of Balsamic Vinegar, and since this wasn't great quality, even though it was from Modena, I added 2 teaspoons of white sugar and reduced. Depending on the Balsamic, you may not need any sugar at all since Balsamic has its share of sugar. This one took about 45 minutes to reduce to the consistency I desired; a bit thinner than corn syrup.

I first mixed 3/4 cup of Greek Extra Virgin Olive Oil with some Turkish Oregano, the last of my stash from Penzy's, 7 cloves of garlic finely minced, and some sea salt (use more then you think you'll need if you use good sea salt). I used this as sort of the marinade as I mixed it with the mushrooms and let sit for 20 minutes while I preheated my oven at 425 degrees.

I rubbed (don't use a paper towel, most of the oil will be soaked up) about 3 tablespoons of canola oil on a sheet pan a set it in the oven for a couple minutes to heat up. Placed the mushrooms in a single layer, slightly spaced, and let her rip for about 20-25 minutes. I opened and turned once so the mushrooms wouldn't brown too much or stick.

I removed the mushrooms from the oven, placed in a bowl, drizzled on some of the glaze, and gently mixed everything together………

Yes, another easy recipe. I still have some glaze left in the fridge. It's gotten a bit thick so I'll either microwave it or add a touch of water and warm it before using it again. Tightly covered and stored, this stuff can last for weeks……. I'm thinking, maybe a filet or some chicken perhaps?

Thanks for reading!

We've seen this as both Dry Cooked Mushroom and Twice Cooked Mushroom on menus in China. It's sort of both. It's also one of those "non-recipes", that will kind of list the process rather than exact quantities……

This one is for "KenB" who asked for a recipe in the comments of last night's post. Ken has given us so many great recommendations, that I thought it only right that I do something right away. Anyway, this is what the first couple of efforts looked like:

We were given a box of Cordyceps Mushrooms as a gift in China. The ones we've seen at places like T S Emporium in LA are priced in the $30 + per pound range! I really didn't want to mess these up.

I basically took about a cup and a half of those mushrooms and soaked them in warm water for about 30 minutes. After that time, I removed and drained the mushrooms, but saved the soaking liquid. I sliced the rehydrated mushroom lengthwise, and patted them dry. I also rehydrated some dried Lily Buds and sliced some Chinese Celery.

I then heated my wok until smoking and added about a cup and a half of canola oil until it shimmered. I then did a quick fry of the mushrooms until the edges were crisp.

I removed the mushrooms to a paper towel lined plate, and drained all but 1-2 Tb of the oil, which had a nice fragrance. I waited until the oil hit smoking, then scalded a couple of dried red chilies that had been de-seeded. From here it was basically a stir-fry, starting with a dash of Shaoxing wine and white pepper, with the following added for flavoring:

1-2 Tb Premium Dark Soy Sauce
1 Tb Premium Light Soy Sauce
1-2 Tsp White Sugar
Mushroom soaking liquid to taste

It turned out great, savory and slightly sweet, but I just can't bring myself to part with nearly forty bucks to keep making this. So what to do when my mushrooms were gone? (I actually have enough for one last batch). I decided to try this out with King Mushrooms:

I julienned the mushrooms lengthwise into matchsticks. I also replaced the lily buds with mung bean sprouts which would bring more crunch and a nice flavor to the dish.

These rest was basically the same process, except I added some Mushroom Dark Soy Sauce for additional flavor. The water from the bean sprouts renders out during the stir-fry process which keeps the dish moist.

It was different, but also delicious……. and very easy……you really don't need a recipe for this.

So there you go. Sort of like that eye test….which looks better?

Number 1?

 
Or number 2?

I was surprised to receive a couple of emails regarding the Num Jim Jaew from Siam Nara, asking me for a recipe. The funny thing is; I've made this a couple times, and actually took photos when I made this after our return from Laos, where it's called Jeow Mak Keua. For some reason I just never got around to making it.

This was something I actually made at the Tamarind Cooking School, and came out looking like this:

You can tell this one was quite spicy, lots of chilies. And of course the "kitchen" where this was made wasn't quite the same as home.

This recipe is based on what I m ade there….. it's very easy. I've even made t his using roasted garlic  which adds a heavenly sweetness to the Jeow…. if you decide to do that, make sure to use a neutral, or no oil at all on the garlic.

 Jeow Mak Keua – Lao Eggplant Dip:

3 Small-Medium Japanese Eggplant
4-8 Thai Bird Chilies
4-5 Cloves of Garlic Skin on
1/2 Cup Chopped Cilantro Leaves
1-2 Stalks Green Onion – Green parts only sliced thin
1/2 Tsp Salt
Fish Sauce

– Prick eggplant and chilies with a knife or skewer.
– Grill eggplant, chili, and garlic, until the skin is blackened.  I usually grill right over hot charcoal which adds a layer of smokiness to the dish, but you can do the same over a gas flame or under the broiler.
– Peel Garlic, and slice eggplant lengthwise keeping the stem portion on and intact… it should look sort of like a flower.
– Pound the garlic, chili, and salt together in a mortar to make a paste.
– Then pound each eggplant in the mortar, by holding the stem of the eggplant and pounding it until all the flesh is removed. You can then pull the skin off the eggplant out by the stem. Conversely, you can just peel the eggplant.
– Add the cilantro and green onions and pound into a thick paste.
– Taste and add fish sauce to taste.

There is another recipe in which you boil the eggplant and chilies first until soft, peel and squeeze the excess moisture out of the eggplant, pound in a mortar to a paste and stir-fry.

It was only a matter of time before the Missus got tired of jumping in the car and going to Aria on the chance that they'd have Her favorite cauliflower dish. This meant trying to make something that frankly, I wasn't too confident I'd pull off. But it came out much better than I thought it would.

I'm not really going to list a "recipe" for a couple of reasons. First I used regular off the shelf supermarket brand Curry Powder, ground coriander, and tumeric……. starting with a ratio of 2:1:1.

In the end, I ended up adding at least double that amount of curry powder to adjust the flavors. I don't feel comfortable advising someone to use off the shelf Curry Powder from a supermarket in the amounts I did. Second, the Missus swears that Aria uses Dill in their recipe, so I ended up adding 2 teaspoons of dill. The end product came out surprisingly good……quite a shock for me.

I started with 4 tablespoons of olive oil heated over medium heat, then added 2Tb Curry Powder, 1Tb ground coriander, 1 Tb ground tumeric, stirring the the spices into the oil to let them "bloom" for about 20 second or so until fragrant.

 
To this I added one large onion chopped, and seven cloves of garlic finely minced. Once the onions had started softening, I added 1 8 ounce can of tomato sauce and the dill. Once this mixture started bubbling I added my cauliflower, the equivalent of one medium head of florets, mixing to coat the cauliflower. Once the florets were coated I added 1/2 cup of water, mixed well, tasted the sauce and added salt and pepper to taste, and adjusted the flavor a bit further with more (quite a bit) curry powder. I then lowered the temperature, gave cauliflower a good mix, and covered the dish. I'd open and stir every five minutes or so, and added water, in quarter cup portions twice to keep the sauce from getting too dry. After about twenty minutes or so, the cauliflower had reached the desired texture……soft and almost buttery.

A quick taste, and the addition of a bit more salt and fresh ground pepper and it was ready to go……

It ended up not being that difficult……

So did you try to cook anything new this week?

This classic Sichuan dish is usually made with Beef – Shui Zhu Niu Rou, the version made with fish Shui Zhu Yu is one of our favorite dishes at Ba Ren, which more appropriately calls these dishes "Boiled in Hot Sauce". Tonight I thought I'd try making it with lamb.

I was surprised how well it turned out…. not quite sure about the photos though. The Missus said they look like brains boiled in hot sauce! The recipe is loosely based on Fuchsia Dunlop's recipe in her fantastic cookbook, Land of Plenty which I've referenced many times over the years. If you have that recipe handy you'll notice more than a few differences. First, I really used water, not stock for this. I also bumped up all the spices, and used four different sources of chilies, including Korean Ground Red Chili and my home made chili oil. I also used tablespoons of freshly toasted and ground Sichuan Peppercorns instead of teaspoons. If you try this recipe out, you may want to increase it even more since I used Sichuan Peppercorns directly from Sichuan that had never been irradiated. Instead of numbing your tongue and lips, it'll numb your entire face. I also used finely minced garlic and a touch of grated ginger, which really helped the dish along.

What's really interesting about this dish is that it's built in layers using a single wok. First you use the chilies and most of the ground Sichuan Peppercorn to develop a chili-and-peppercorn infused oil.

You then remove the chilies and use the oil to very briefly stir fry your vegetables. Because I used two different veggies, I made this in two batches.

And layered one on top of the other in the bowl to be used for serving.

Next you build your "sauce", much like the way I do my Ma Po Tofu. Once you have your sauce boiling you add your meat, which has been marinating in Shaoxing wine, and mixed with a cornstarch mixture. You stir briefly with chopsticks to ensure the meat is separated. Once the meat is cooked you remove the meat from the now thickened sauce, and add that to the bowl. You then pour the sauce over everything. Chop the dried chilies, sprinkle them on top of everything along with more Sichuan Peppercorn….. and it's done.

In case you're thinking this was a long drawn out process, it was actually pretty quick. I even made another stir fried vegetable dish for dinner…… Oh, and it was more "Ma" (numbing) than "La" spicy, at least to me.

 
Shui Zhu Yang Rou – Water Boiled Lamb:

2/3 lb vegetables – mung bean sprouts, lettuce, napa cabbage, etc
2/3 lb Sliced Lamb
2 Tb Shaoxing Wine (Drinking Quality please)
10-15 Dried Red Chilies
3 Tb freshly toasted and ground Sichuan Peppercorn
3 cloves garlic finely minced
1 tsp grated ginger
3 Tb Peanut Oil
1/2 cup Canola Oil
1 tsp Ground Red Chilies
3 Tb home made chili oil
4-5 Tb Sichuan Chili Bean Paste aka Doubian Jian (make sure it's made from Broad Beans)
4 Tb Corn Starch combined with 4-5 Tb water to form a paste
2 tsp Dark Soy Sauce
2 tsp Premium Soy sauce
1 Tb white granulated sugar
2 cups water
salt to taste
Cilantro

– Prep and slice (if necessary) your vegetables
– Slice dried chilies in half and discard the seeds
– Combine the sliced lamb with Shaoxing Wine, mix well, and let marinate
– Add peanut oil to a medium hot wok. Add the dried chilies and 2 tablespoons of Sichuan Peppercorn to the wok.Stir Fry until the chilies start to brown, do not scald. Quickly remove the chilies.
– Add vegetables to the wok and stir fry quickly. Since I used two different items I did this twice. I added a touch of salt and the ground red chilies to the greens. Just briefly cook the vegetables, they should still be crunchy when removed from the wok to create the first layer(s) in your bowl.
– Add the canola oil (I used canola oil instead of peanut oil for this because peanut oil is so darn expensive nowadays) and turn up the heat.
– When the oil begins to shimmer add the Bean Paste, stir frying until it is fragrant.Add garlic, ginger, and mix quickly.
– Add water, soy sauces, and sugar.
– While the liquid is coming up to a boil. Combine the cornstarch mixture with the lamb and mix well.
– When the sauce is boiling, dip a chopstick into the sauce and taste. Adjust the flavor if necessary.
– Start adding the slices of meat to the sauce. As the sauce comes up to a boil use chopsticks to separate the slices of meat.
– Once the meat is cooked, use chopsticks or a slotted spoon to top the vegetables with the meat.
– Pour the bubbling sauce over everything
– Chop the red chilies, and sprinkle on top, drizzle on chili oil to taste along with the remaining tablespoon of Sichuan Pepper.

This year, the Missus wanted Oden (おでん) a hot pot/stew that usually features a variety of fish cakes. The recipe for the broth is quite simple, and is basically exactly as described in Shizuo Tsuji's Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art , one of my favorite cookbooks. Other than the fact I use only dashi (Tsuji uses a combination of chicken stock and dashi), I think the real difference, if any was all in the preparation and serving.

As with many Japanese dishes; everything starts (and ends with) the Dashi. Instead of beginning the heating of the kombu right away; I'll actually first score 5-6" squares of wiped kombu, then soak in cold water overnight basically making Kombu Dashi. The next day I'll bring the liquid up to temp, heating to just the point where bubbles appear in the water, then I'll remove the kombu. The center part of the kombu should be soft…… you should be able to press your fingernail into the kombu. After the kelp has been removed, I'll increase the heat of the liquid until it just about reaches a boil, remove it from heat, then add the Katsuobushi (bonito flakes). I'll then very gently stir once; then wait until all the katsuobushi sinks to the bottom of the pot before straining through a cheesecloth.

Once I put together the broth, I'll place the longer cooking stewing items, like daikon, kombu, shiitake mushroom, and konnyaku into the broth to simmer. As for the other items, when I'm ready to serve the Oden, I'll ladle out the amount of broth and stewed items into a smaller pot; add in the Missus's favorite fish cakes and boiled eggs and bring to a simmer and heat through. Simmering fried fishcakes can give your broth a oily sheen, makes the cakes soggy and bland, and basically look quite unattractive. I'll pour boiling water over Abura-age (Fried tofu) to remove the excess oil, cut into triangles, and place into the bowl, along with some kamaboko. you'll notice that there's a scarcity of chikuwa (broiled fish cake)….. it seems that the Missus prefers more expensive stuff.

I also added a few items that the Missus enjoys like Satoimo (taro). The Missus also loves Inoki Mushrooms, but when added to a stew all the stalks break apart and go every which way. So this time, I soaked some Kanpyo (dried calabash shavings), and used them to tie the bundles of Inoki Mushroom together. Here's a pretty good list of items that you can add to your Oden. I'm just including the recipe for the broth.

Oden Broth:
8 Cups Ichiban Dashi
1/2 Cup neutral flavored soy sauce – Aloha or Yamasa
1/4 Cup Whole Bean Kikkoman (just using Kikkoman tends to overwhelm the other subtle flavors for me)
3/4 Cup Mirin
1 Tsp Sea Salt

– Bring the dashi to a simmer, add soy sauce and mirin. Simmer to burn off some of the alcohol
– Taste and adjust flavors. Add salt to taste.
– Add daikon, konnyaku, etc first. Remember that every ingredient will add its own flavor to the broth, that's the magic of the dish.

I'll usually serve this with hot mustard.

Consume on one of the coldest days of the year……..