Category: Cooking

I’m not sure why I’m posting this……it is something that I make quite often, and maybe too simple, but what the heck.

 

I always hesitate when someone asks me for a Teriyaki recommendation…..why? Because as simple as Teriyaki is, there are variations, on the basic 4 ingredient recipe. There is what I call "American Teriyaki", which is sweeter than what I’m used to. You can call this the "bottled stuff"…..much of it contains corn syrup, or some similar sweetener. There’s what I call Hawaiian Teriyaki, which is sorta, kinda like the stuff called "Hawaiian BBQ"…..which is what I grew up eating, and uses mainly shoyu(soy sauce) and sugar, and has marinating as a step. I’m very familiar with this, as mirin was scarce(and pricey) while I was growing up, and Sake was priced out of our range. So Mom’s  "Teriyaki" used Soy Sauce, and Dark Brown Sugar, with garlic and ginger…and low grade meat was marinated to tenderize. As time passed, and mirin and sake became more affordable, the recipe changed, and became closer to the "tare" that describes traditional teriyaki. So you can understand my dilemma when someone emails me and asks for "something like the best teriyaki in the world, just like xxxx or xxx in yyyyy." (Many times the yyyy is Seattle, San Francisco, or New York) There’s much more to it than the basic 4 ingredient recipe….. ’nuff said.

This recipe is really quick, you can get the dish to the table in 20 minutes or less. I sometime spend more time in the check-out line purchasing the chicken than cooking.

Teriyaki Sauce:
(Makes enough for 2 uses)
1/2 Cup Soy Sauce
1/2 Cup Sake
2/3 Cup Mirin
2-4 Tb Granulated Sugar

Boneless Chicken legs(2), thighs(4), or breasts(2), with skin on.
2 Tb Canola Oil

1 – Pierce the skin of the chicken pieces with skewer or fork to prevent excess shrinkage and allow for absorption of the sauce during cooking.

2 – Mix all sauce ingredients, except sugar, in a small pot and bring to a boil to burn of excess alcohol. Lower to a simmer, add 2Tb sugar, and whisk to dissolve.

3 – Heat oil in a pan. Place the chicken skin side down and fry over medium heat for 3-5 minutes until the skin is brown and crisp. Lower heat, and turn chicken, and fry until done, about 8-10  minutes.(You may cover the pan to enhance cooking)

4 – Taste Teriyaki Sauce, and adjust sugar to taste.

5 – Remove the chicken from the pan.

6 – Pour off excess oil from pan, increase heat to medium high, and pour about 1/3 cup of sauce into pan. The sauce should start boiling/foaming.

7 – Return chicken to pan, turning to coat. Coat chicken well. Remove chicken from the pan when almost all the sauce has been absorbed/reduced.

8 – Chop chicken and pour sauce over as desired.

Store remaining sauce in a sterile/clean jar, and place in frig when cooled. I’ve kept the sauce in the  frig for several weeks with no problems. There are many things you can do to adjust the sauce to your taste. I add a dash of dashi-no-moto, but you can add finely minced garlic, and grated ginger…or any number of things.

I remember when I was little, call it "small kid time" as many of my friends would say. We didn’t have much(and many times no) money, barely enough for survival. So eating out was a real treat; just having Chinese take-out was a something saved for Birthdays, and other "special" occasions. One of my favorite memories was splurging for the fried chicken from the now defunct Woolworth’s(aka F.W. Woolworth’s). It may have just been a thigh or drumstick, but when you bit into that wonderfully juicy chicken, it was like you’ve just had your own little piece of heaven. Woolworth’s you may ask….I know it sounds strange, but I faintly remember something along the lines of "You do the pickin’ when you buy chicken at Woolworth’s"? Of course time marches on, and Woolworth’s became sort of an after thought….until I heard that Woolworth’s was closing down, at which time I marched myself down to Woolworth’s to grab that one last piece, and it was terrible, icky, tasting like that Banquet frozen stuff you reheat. Which made me wonder, had the food quality and recipe deteriorated so much over the years, or had my tastes and preferences changed? I think it was probably a little of both. I had sort of the same dilemma a few years back, albeit not to the same extent when I tried the Chicken Alice recipe. As with all things…time and taste move on. So what does this have to do with some Asian fusion-ny chicken cutlets?

More than a few years ago, there was a series on the Discovery Channel called Great Chef’s of the World which I used to make a point to watch every chance I had. I really enjoyed that series, and I guess it’s still shown….but I haven’t run into it in a few years. One of the fun parts was watching all the "local" chefs from Hawaii, like Alan Wong, Roy Yamaguchi, et al cooking up some really interesting stuff. During one segment I saw this recipe, it was called Crispy Thai-style Chicken, and seemed like something even I could pull off, which I managed to do pretty successfully. For some reason, I hadn’t made this since we moved to San Diego, now almost 7 years ago. So when the recipe recently reared it’s head in the mass of confusion called my Grey matter, I thought it would be an interesting study of just how much our tastes have changed.

As I started making the marinade, I noticed something right away…..it smelled really mild, so I decided to use a whole bulb of garlic, and double up the amount of fish sauce. The dressing needed a bit more zip so I added some chopped onions.

Thai Style Chicken Cutlets

Marinade:
2 stalks lemongrass finely minced
1 bulb garlic minced
1 Tb grated ginger
4 Tb Thai Fish Sauce
6 stalks green onions(white parts included)finely chopped
2-3 Tb cilantro minced
1/2 Mochiko(sweet rice flour)
2 Tb cornstarch
1 tsp Salt
2 Egg whites

Dressing:
1 Cup rice wine vinegar
1/2 Cup sugar
1/3 Cup water
1/3 Cup Thai Fish Sauce
1/2 onion, minced
2-3(or more) Tb chili paste

2-3 lbs boneless, skinless chicken breasts
Canola Oil
Finely Sliced Green Onions for garnish & Salt to taste

– Combine marinade ingredients in a large bowl. Mix well.
– Add the chicken, make sure all pieces are well coated
– Marinate over night
– Heat about 1/3-1/2" oil in a saute pan
– Fry chicken cutlets, 5-8 minutes each side, until the chicken is completely cooked
– Combine dressing items, and mix until sugar is dissolved.
– Remove chicken from oil, drain, plate, and drizzle a few tablespoons(or more) over chicken. Use the remainder as a dressing for a green salad.

After frying up the chicken, I thought it looked as good, or better than what I made before….all those years of chicken katsu had paid off! The chicken was very moist and tender. However……man did it taste really mild to us, even with a ton of the dressing. The Missus agreed, it seems our tastes have  changed sharply over the last 7-8 years. Nothing was more telling than when I turned to the Missus and said; "you know, I’d take a marinade with Vietnamese fish sauce, a batch of Nuoc Mam Cham, like we had a Beach’s for a "dressing", I’m sure Wandering Chopsticks must have a recipe, along with a good amount of "Bun"(Rice Vermicelli), and some really fresh herbs along with the greens in the salad….and it would be Vietnamese style Chicken Cutlets……

Since a good friend of mine has called my mind a "cesspool of useless information" here’s another one for you…."don’t cook tonight, call Chicken Delight!!!"

Hope you’re having a nice weekend!

Are you a collector? Or maybe a pack rat? I was looking at my recipes folder the other day and realized that, gasp….I’m a Chicken Karaage recipe pack rat. I’ve got at least a dozen different recipes for Chicken Karaage, Japanese Fried Chicken. I don’t know how I got these recipes…god knows I’m not a "collector"…….Though I come from a long line of pack rats, I consciously try not to be one. I can understand that living on an "island" with the possibility of shortages and strikes made having a back stock of necessities a requirement way back when….but sometimes it seemed like my Mom never threw anything away. I remember cleaning up after my Mom passed away back in the mid-nineties, and being amazed at the stuff she kept; jars of pennies, buttons("you never know you might need one "), a drawer full of pens – most not working(I never knew Tanoue’s Saimin had pens), and even more touching, every single card; Birthday, Mother’s Day, you name it, from the construction paper-crayon doodles of a first grader, to the silly one that played, or used to play, some silly tune.  But among all those little things was about the equivalent of 2 cases of toilet paper stacked neatly, filling an entire closet(let’s not get into spools of thread, or boxes of Kleenex). You know……..just in case. I guess for previous generations, a modicum of hording was the norm.

So I thought I’d relieve that collection of notes and text files, at least by a bit, and post 2 of the Chicken Karaage recipes I have. The first is my standard recipe, the one I normally use, the second is one that I thought was a bit more interesting…..

Here’s a photo of the first recipe…..

Looks like 2 recipes, doesn’t it? It’s actually the same recipe, but just to illustrate how changing one thing can change the entire dish.

This is the second recipe…… 

Looks kinda the same, but a bit different, doesn’t it? I don’t know where I got this recipe, but the oyster sauce gives the dish a different, albeit maybe a bit odd, umami sweetness, and the lemon juice adds a bit of tart sourness. Mixed with garlic and ginger……the Missus thought the flavor to be "strange". I think it need perhaps a bit more sweetness…….

Chicken Karaage
1 1/2 – 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs cut into 1 1/2" cubes
1 1/2 cup potato starch

The Marinade (1):
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup mirin
3 TB Sake
1 TB finely grated ginger
4 cloves garlic finely minced
Togarashi to taste
a dash of Allspice/5 spice

Combine ingredients and marinade chicken for 30 minutes.

Remove chicken from marinade and drain.

Version 1 – Put 1 cup potato starch and 1 tsp baking powder into a pan or large bowl, add the chicken cubes and coat well.

Version 2 – Dust the chicken with potato starch, mix lightly.

Deep fry chicken in 350 degree vegetable oil until cooked and cubes are crisp and golden – drain and serve with lemon wedges…..

Marinade (2):
2 TB grated ginger
4 cloves garlic, finely minced
4 tsp soy sauce
2 TB olive oil
4 TB oyster sauce
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 TB mirin
2 tsp sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper

Combine marinade ingredients well; taste and adjust salt and pepper. Add chicken, mixing by hand and gently massaging sauce into chicken. Let sit about 10 minutes.
Coat chicken in potato starch. Deep fry in oil heated to 350 degrees, until lightly brown.

For an even more crunchy coat, use the double frying method, remove chicken when pieces float, let rest for 1 minute, and return to oil for about 30 seconds.

I hope you enjoyed the recipes. I can now put them away for a while, next to my folders of take-out menus, and my box of POGs……….

Due to some terrible scheduling, I’m going to have to work on Christmas Day…..bummer. So the Missus and I decided to have our Christmas lunch/dinner (lunner?? dinch??) today. One of the items I made was a real easy pan-glazed duck breast dish, Kamo no Yuan-yaki. Yuan-yaki, is normally a grilling technique used for chicken or fish briefly marinated in a soy sauce-mirin-sake-citrus(Yuzu) marinade. Why Yuan? From what I could gather "Yuan" was a Tea Ceremony Master from the Edo period, and this dish is named after him. This preparation is a bit different; I didn’t marinade the duck, opting for crisp duck skin, with a nice glaze.

 

Kamo no Yuan-Yaki

2 Boneless Duck Breasts with Skin
4 Tb Mirin
3 Tb Soy Sauce
2 Tb Sake
2-3 slices lemon rind(or even better Yuzu!)

1 – Place the duck breasts skin side up on a cutting board and score. This allows for excess fat to  cook off during cooking process, and the sauce to be absorbed.
2 – Mix together the rest of the ingredients
3 – Heat a frying pan on medium high heat, and place duck breasts skin side down and fry for 4-8 minutes until the skin is crisp. Lower heat, turn duck breasts, and cook for another2-4 minutes.

4 – Pour sauce over duck, bring sauce to a boil, turning duck over several times to coat completely.  Let sauce reduce, remove duck.
5 – Cut duck, and place over mizuna, watercress, arugula, or a similar greens. You may pour remaining glaze over the duck if desired.

Super easy!

We also had some Sukiyaki.

Like my meat presentation? I know you’re not supposed to play with your food, but….

I used that nice chunk of fat to help "oil" the sukiyaki nabe. I couldn’t find my trusty old cast iron Sukiyaki Nabe(sukiyaki pot), and had to buy a new one…..I couldn’t find an old-fashioned cast iron version, only the lightweight aluminum, alloy version. When I inquired about the availability of a cast iron nabe, the lady smiled and said, using her most refined Grandmotherly tone,  "this is the 21st century…..people don’t want cast iron any more. And, all of us are getting old, cast iron is too heavy!" I couldn’t help but laugh.

And I thought all the lines were at the mall:

We were driving past Honey Baked Hams, and couldn’t believe the lines. The Missus snapped a photo:

Sheesh…..

Merry Christmas everyone, I hope all the craziness didn’t drive up a pole….like it did to Santa!

Happy Holidays!

The Missus has developed a habit of leafing through some of my magazines lately…..which is kind of strange since She really hasn’t shown much interest in the stuff I subscribe to. So why the change? Here’s a typical scenario…..

Me: "What are you looking at in Saveur?"

She, pointing to a photo: "This is what I want for dinner."

Me, looking at the photo: "You want Latkes? I’ve never made Latkes, I don’t even know if I’m genetically predisposed to making Latkes."

She, coming up with the pat response: "Don’t worry, you can cook, it’s easy……" Pointing to photo: "See, it’s just a pancake. YOU CAN MAKE A PANCAKE, CAN’T YOU?"

Me, suddenly realizing that I’ve been both complimented and called out at the same time: "humph…."

She: "Hey, you can do a post on it…."

Me: "I’m not sure, you realize that many family’s treasure their recipes for Latkes, and I don’t want to insult anyone…."

By this time, She had lost interest and left the room…..probably moved on to bigger and better things.  It’s a good thing that I’ve down sized my magazine subscriptions, and only receive a few publications, though I shudder to think what She may come up with in Sports Illustrated! Come to think of it, I think I’d better put my cookbooks under lock and key.

As noted, this has been modified from the recipe in the December 2007 issue of Saveur. One key change was the substitution of green onions(scallions) for chives, which looked positively terrible at the market.

Latkes

2-2/12 lbs Yukon Gold Potatoes
1 Medium onion
2 Bunches Green Onions sliced
3 Tb Matzo Meal
2 Eggs lightly beaten
Fresh Ground Pepper & Kosher Salt ot taste
Canola Oil

1 – Over a bowl, using the large-hole side of a box grater, alternate grating onion and potatoes.
2 – Sprinkle salt over potato-onion mixture, and transfer to a colander set over a bowl. Let drain for 10 minutes.
3 – Squeeze out as much moisture as possible from mixture, allowing the liquid to drain into the bowl. Set liquid side to let the starch in the liquid settle.
4 – Place mixture into another bowl, cover, and set aside.
5 – After 5 minutes, pour off the liquid, leaving settled starch behind.
6 – Mix starch into the onion-potato mixture, along with green onions, matzo meal, eggs, salt, and pepper.
7 – Heat canola oil in a pan to the height of about 1/4" over medium heat.
8 – Form mixture into balls, using about 1/4-1/3 cup of the mixture for each ball. Place ball into oil, and flatten with a spatula.
9 – Fry until cooked, turning once, for about 5-8 minutes.
10 – Latkes are traditionally served with sour cream or apple sauce….but the Missus uses, gasp…..ketchup!

Oh yes, one more item:

11 – Display your grated knuckles as a badge of courage!

Postscript: Great minds must think alike (he-he-he), here’s the one and only WanderingChopsticks, with her hunger inducing version.

Since returning from Peru, the Missus has been a bit obsessed with Quinoa. To the extent that we’ve been making Sopa de Quinoa(Quinoa soup) or Lamb and Quinoa Soup almost every week for the last 2 1/2 months! In fact, during that period we’ve been noticing that the price of quinoa has slowly risen; from 89 cents a pound….to $2.19 a pound. I believe that the Missus is the cause of this increase, her incessant demand has caused world-wide supplies to dwindle, a one woman quinoa consumption machine!

A few days ago, the Missus asked me to make something different. I recalled a quinoa salad we had about 5-6 years ago….yes it is true, I can never remember where I parked my car….but ask me about a quinoa salad I had half a decade ago, and I’m "money".

This was very easy, but there a few items of note; I used less water than usual for quinoa,  the normal ratio is about 2 to 1, but because I wanted my quinoa to be "dry", I lowered the ratio. Also, when I tasted the "salad", I thought that I needed something with a bit of sweetness to balance out the flavors. Rather than adding sugar, I sliced some jicama that I had on hand which were used as "chips" to scoop up the salad. Also, the Missus wanted some seafood, so I sauteed some shrimp I had, and used that as a topping.

You might find this surprising, but quinoa is quite calorie-dense at 693 calories per cup. Quinoa is also a good source of complete protein 24 grams per cup, and carbs at 109 grams per cup. You can see why quinoa is sometimes called a "super food". What I find most interesting is how quinoa looks when cooked:

As is duly noted in What we’re eating.

Quinoa Salad

1 1/2 cups quinoa, rinsed
2 cups water
1 cucumber, diced
1 small red onion, diced 
3 tomatoes, cored, seeded, and diced
1 bunch radishes diced
4 Tb cilantro chopped
mint leaves, chopped
2 cloves garlic finely minced
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
juice from 1 lemon
Salt and Fresh Ground Black Pepper to taste
Slices of Jicama
Arugula

1 – Combine rinsed quinoa and water in a medium pot and bring to a boil. Stir once, lower to a simmer and cover for 8-12 minutes.
2 – When quinoa is cooked remove to a strainer or colander, "fluff and mix" to remove all moisture. Let cool.
3 – When the quinoa has cooled and is "dry", transfer the quinoa to a large mixing bowl and add cucumber, onion, tomato, radish, and cilantro. Mix well.
4 – Add olive oil, lemon juice, red wine vinegar, salt, garlic and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning.
5 – Chill for at least 20 minutes
6 – Top with a chiffonade of mint, and serve on a bed of arugula, with slices of Jicama.

I hope everyone had a happy and safe Thanksgiving. The Missus has been quite busy the last few weeks, so we decided to forgo the usual feast……

So this year we had Chinese food which brought back a funny memory……a few years back, we were in Seattle over the Thanksgiving weekend. It was Thanksgiving day, and I was wondering where we’d be able to grab a bite.

Me: "I’m wondering what’s open…"

The Missus: "Chinese restaurants always open on Thanksgiving."

Me: "Why"

The Missus: "Because, wehavenothingtobethankfulfor…..he-he-he…"(She was joking….I think)

And of course we headed off to the International District, and had a nice meal in one of the Chinese restaurants in the area.

Anyway, here’s something I made this past week. It’s really easy, the whole meal can be whipped up in 45 minutes or so. Please excuse the photos, it gets dark pretty early nowadays, and the lighting in our kitchen is dreadful.

RACK OF LAMB WITH CILANTRO-SCALLION CRUST
1 Tb Canola Oil
2 Tb Olive Oil
1/4 teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes
4 Cloves Garlic, minced
3-4 Tb thinly sliced Scallion
3-4 Tb minced Cilantro
1/2 Cup panko
1 Rack of lamb (7 or 8 ribs) – I Frenched the rack, and trimmed much of the fat cap off – saved the fat, and used it for the brussel sprouts.
Salt
Pepper
2 Tb Mayonnaise
1/4 Cup Dijon mustard
2 Tb Soy sauce

1 – In a heat olive oil over moderate heat until it is hot but not smoking, add the red pepper flakes,  stirring for 10 seconds. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 20-30 seconds. Add the scallion and the cilantro and cook the mixture, stirring, for 10 seconds. Stir in the panko, salt, and pepper. Remove the skillet from heat.
2 – Mix the mayonnaise, soy sauce and mustard in a small bowl, set aside.
3 – Season the lamb with Salt and Pepper
4 – Heat an ovenproof skillet over high heat until it is hot and brown the lamb. Turning it occasionally until the sides and the ends are browned evenly.

5 – Pour off any fat from the skillet, arrange the lamb, fat and meat side up, and brush with the mayonnaise/mustard mixture.
6 – Apply panko mixture evenly on the fat and meat on the mayo/mustard mixture.
7 – Bake the lamb in a preheated 450 degree oven for 15-20 minutes, or until a meat thermometer registers 130 degrees for medium-rare meat.
8 – Transfer the lamb to a platter, let it stand, uncovered, for 10 minutes before slicing.

It was a nice little meal…..Rack of Lamb with a Cilantro-Scallion Crust, Horseradish Mashed Potatoes, and Brussel Sprouts with Bacon and Garlic, sauteed in Lamb Fat.

Here’s a photo… The Missus wanted some Karei Karaage, so I made the most of the frying opportunity.

Most everyone I’ve made this for haven’t been able to figure it out. My Mom used to make it for me every once in a while, maybe as way of getting me to eat more greens??

It’s watercress!

And though I still love fresh watercress with the mayo-soy dip, deep frying watercress really brings the sweetness out of it. You’ll be surprised at the flavor. And as with all of my cooking it’s really simple and easy…..

Watercress Tempura

1 Egg
One half cup cornstarch
One half cup flour
Salt
1 bunch Watercress
Ice Water

1 – Beat egg and pour into a measuring cup. Add ice water so that the total liquid measures 3/4 cup. But liquid in frig or freezer(the colder, the more lacy and crisp the tempura)

2 – Combine cornstarch, flour, and 1 teaspoon salt in a bowl. Fold liquid into flour mixture, mix until the consistency of pancake batter, a few lumps do not matter, do not over mix. Chill batter in refrigerator until ready to use.

3 – Wash watercress and dry. When ready to use, chop watercress into 1 to 1 1/2 inch pieces and  mix into batter until completely mixed.

4- Heat oil to 350 degrees.

5 – Form watercress into little balls and place into oil and fry.

6 – Remove from oil and drain. Lightly salt if desired. Serve with Tetsuyu(Tempura Dipping Sauce)

Remember to make the most of the frying opportunity!!!