Italy – Page 5 – mmm-yoso

Florence – Climbing Campanile (Giotto’s Tower), the Duomo Museum, Dante “Stuff”, Galileo Gives Me the “Finger”, and Paninis From SandwiChic

May 12, 2018 mmm-yoso Florence and Tuscany, Italy, Italy, Sandwiches, Travel

Oh boy….another morning in Florence and just like the previous morning the Missus was ready to go. Since tickets for climbing to the Dome of the Duomo were sold out, the Missus decided we should do the Bell Tower of the Duomo; the Campanile. We got there right when they opened at 830am.

I'd read that this climb was easier than climbing to the Dome, by something like 49 steps…..so I was relieved a bit. Until I actually had to do it. The Missus told me it was going to be a "piece of cake"….only 414 steps!

Boy am I getting old….. up the winding steps…..you arrive at a platform thinking, "this isn't too bad". Until you find out there are even more steps to the next platform. Rinse….repeat…..

There are actually three platforms….I hadn't read about that, so everytime we stopped, I thought we'd made it.

If I was going up to the thirty-first floor….I'd take the elevator. But not here…..

Though I have to say, the views were amazing.

Having the dome in view makes for a more dramatic shot in my opinion.

I even pointed out the street we were staying on, Via Dei Servi, to the Missus.

Of course….we now had to go back down. Getting there early was actually a good move. The higher you go; the more cramped the stairwell is.

I felt great as we exited Giotto's Tower….it was great to be alive. I did want to take a short break though.

The Missus loved the doors of the Baptistery that faced the Duomo, called the "Gates of Paradise". That door of the Baptistry was the work of Lorenzo Ghiberti, who initially won a contest, defeating Brunelleschi (more on him later), for the right to build first the North Door, then the East Door. In all, Ghiberti spent 48 years of his life on those two doors. The original panels are on display in the Duomo Museum, which is why the Missus wanted to visit.

In fact, most of the original sculptures from the Duomo, Baptistery, and Bell Tower are on display in this museum.

One of the more enjoyable areas in the museum is the Gallery of Brunelleschi's Dome. Remember him? In the end, he got a pretty good gig himself…..designing and building the Dome of the Duomo. We really enjoyed the short video presentation, it was so informative.

Other interesting sculptures. Mary Magdalene by Donatello.

This haunting and realistic work was completed by Donatello when he was over sixty years old.

This version of Pieta by Michelangelo, also known as "The Deposition".

It is said that Michelangelo, now in his seventies, originally created this work for his own tomb. There are many different theories about why Michelangelo tried to destroy this work. Much of it was later repaired, but notice that Jesus is still missing a leg.

Once done we headed down toward Piazza della Signoria. We were doing a bit of shopping for gifts. On one of the side streets we came across a small church.

On one of the walls we noticed a painting of Dante Alighieri. This is Santa Margherita de' Cerchi also known as the Church of Dante and Beatrice. The church dates back to 1032. Supposedly, it is in this church where Dante first saw and fell in love with Beatrice who would become his muse. They were both nine at the time. This church is also said to have been the location of Dante's marriage (nope not to Beatrice) to Gemma Donati. Beatrice would marry a banker named Simone di Bardi and die in 1290 at the age of 24.

Literally steps away is Casa di Dante (the Dante House Museum). Since we had the Firenze Card we thought we'd just go ahead and visit.

It was not Dante's "home" per se; as many of the buildings of this time have been torn down. If you're a Dante fan, you'll love this tiny three floor museum of all things Dante.

Florence is full of places to see; large and small. We literally walked a few steps from Casa di Dante and saw folks going in and out of this doorway. We walked in a saw a little chapel with some very nice frescoes. This is the home of the Congregation of the Buonomini di San Martino, formed in 1441 to help those who have fallen into hard times.

How could I not give a couple of Euros?

There seem to be fascinating places like this around every corner……

Down every street……..

A story to be told…..

We finally got to Piazza della Signoria.

Where the Missus spent some time trying things on at the location of Ireri Boutique on Via de Gondi. By now, I had decided on one last stop before lunch.

The Galileo Science Museum (Museo Galileo – Institute and Museum of the History of Science). Not for all the amazing collection of telescopes, scientific instruments…..history….

I wanted to see Galileo's middle finger.

Galileo and the church often clashed, on April 12th, 1633 he was convicted of heresy and was placed on house arrest until his death in 1642. Finally, in 1992, Pope John Paul II declared that Galileo was right. In some odd way, I find the placement of Galileo's middle finger somewhat…..ironic?

Or perhaps it was just because I was getting hungry?

The Missus had been wanting to try a panini in Florence and I had a place in mind. We walked back to where our apartment was and headed four blocks to Sandwichic. The place was packed, though things moved fast. I ordered our paninis on the classic Tuscan schiacciata. We headed back to the apartment and enjoyed ourselves.

The Missus got prosciutto with pecrino, porcini, and truffle cream.

I got the prosciutto cotto, a really nice ham, with pecorino and crema de peperoni (no, not pepperoni), a red pepper sauce.

The sauce was a bit too sweet, but the Missus loved the prosciutto cotto.

The schiacciata was wonderful, fairly light, yeasty, great texture, nicely toasted around the edges, but still soft inside. With a couple of glasses of wine….it was quite nice.

SandwiChic
Via San Gallo 3/r
Florence, Italy

And then it was nap time!

Florence – Snack Time. Grom Gelato and Eataly

April 25, 2018 mmm-yoso Desserts, Florence and Tuscany, Italy, Italy, Markets & Grocers

It's been a long day. Just a quick post for this evening……

Having a nice meal puts you such great state of mind. Everything just looks better…..

Besides the fact this was Florence……

At this time of the night, Piazza della Signoria was quite relaxed at this time of the evening. A far cry from the day time crowds. Though folks (like me) were still out taking photos.

Though the shadows made some of the statues in Loggia dei Lanzi look kind of creepy at night.

As we approached Piazza del Duomo, the Missus decided She wanted some gelato. So we stopped by the nearby Grom Gelato Shop.

I realize Grom is a chain with locations in LA, NYC, and if I recall even Japan.

But the Missus said this was pretty darn good.

I'll take Her word for it.

Grom Gelato
Via del Campanile 2
Florence, Italy

The views of the Duomo and Baptistry probably made it taste even better.

Speaking of chains; the Missus wanted to check out the Florence location of Eataly. We visited the Copenhagen location last year and the Missus really enjoyed Herself.

On the way there we saw these street musicians.

They were really good. But what made things great was the little Pinocchio on a string that danced along to the music….it had better rhythm than me!

We ended up getting a pretty decent bottle of red wine and a nice snack to share.

Eataly
Via dei Martelli 22/r
Florence, Italy

It was a wonderful end to a wonderful day.

Florence – Basilica de Santa Croce, Piazzale Michelangelo, and Dinner at Il Magazzino (“The Warehouse”)

April 23, 2018 mmm-yoso Florence and Tuscany, Italy, Italian Restaurants, Italy, Memorable Meals, Travel

After a morning of visiting Uffizi Gallery, the Bargello Museum, not too mention a wonderful lunch at Sergio Gozzi, we had a nice nap. Upon wakening, the Missus was ready to go. Her destination, the view from Piazzale Michelangelo. We decided to not even look at the map and just headed off in the direction of the Arno River. We walked past a hospital, down some side streets, then crossed busy Via Verdi and ended up in front of this wonderful looking church.

At which time I took out the map. This was Piazza Santa Croce.

And the church? It was the Basilica di Santa Croce. Since it was covered by the Firenze Card, we decided to visit, and we were really glad we did.

The largest Franciscan Church in the world, it houses and impressive crucifix, of which there's a story. In 1966 Florence suffered a devastating flood, the Arno overflowed and in the Santa Croce area, the high water mark reached 22 feet! The Crucifix, built by Giovanni Cimabue in 1287 was damaged. you can read more about that here. We'd see that crucifix later on.

Another interesting set of stories is of who is….and isn't buried in the church.

There are many notable people buried here; Galileo, Rossini, Ghiberti, and Michelangelo. The photo I took of his tomb is to the right. In 1564 Michelangelo died in Rome. Pope Pius IV gave instructions that the great artist, architect, and poet was to be buried in Rome. Lionardo Buanarroti, Michelangelo's nephew, under the guise of taking care of his uncle's estate and belongings, coordinated getting Michelangelo's body smuggled out of Rome by merchants. There are more stories here. As for who isn't buried in Santa Croce, but have what I guess we can call "monuments" is Dante, who was exiled to Ravenna. When Florence demanded his remains, Ravenna refused. And so, he has a place waiting here I guess. We'd see Dante's tomb later on during the trip.

In the sacristy, you'll find the original crucifix that has been restored as much as possible.

It was approaching 5pm so we decided to head on out.

As we approached the Arno River, we could see our destination.

That's the Torre San Niccolo, once a gate to the city walls. Piazzale Michelangelo is visible on the hill above.

We crossed the river on Ponte alle Grazie and headed up the hill.

From the stairway, you can actually see parts of the old city wall.

Needless to say, the view from Piazzale Michelangelo is wonderful.

And lots of folks walk, cab, and drive it up here. Many, to take in the view, and then have some nice refreshment.

After walking down, we decided to stay on the south side of the river. I had a restaurant in mind which was located in the Oltrarno neighborhood.

A few blocks off of busy Via de Guicciardini is a quaint little square.

Sadly, our destination wasn't open yet. Nor were the doors unlocked so I could ask for reservations. On the other side of the Piazza della Passera was a café, by the name of Caffè degli Artigiani. This was one of those places…..that I wish we had here; serving everything from espresso, to beer, to wine, to cocktails, to Spritz. Feeling a bit hungry? Well, for one euro, you can fill up your plate with Apertivo, basically snacks. I'm not sure if it's all you can eat, but we saw one guy come in a fill up his plate three times!

I'd been waiting to finally get my hands on a Negroni, which was created in Florence. I've done a couple of posts on meals I've had with a Negroni or two.

This was not bad……but most of the fun was just sitting and watching all the folks come in; grab a spritz, stand at the bar or hang around the square and come back to drop off the glass when done.

Caffè degli Artigiani
Via dello Sprone 16/r
Firenze, Italy

By this time, the restaurant, named "Il Magazzino", aka "the Warehouse" was open.

Sadly, we were told they had "no tables….all reserved". The Missus asked about the outside tables and the really nice guy said, "oh no…too cold". I was a bit bummed, but that's the way it goes. As we thanked him…..he looked at us and said, "ok, you want outside….is ok…..is ok." That's how we got our dinner at Osteria Tripperia Il Magazzino.

We started with a very beefy, really nice beef tongue carpaccio.

The cheese added just the right amount of milky-saltiness to the tongue. The greens were very bitter, which I kind of enjoyed, but the Missus did not.

The Missus's favorite dish of the evening? The Ravioli di Lampredotto con Cipolla di Tropea.

I gotta say; this was super delici-yoso! The tomato sauce was just tangy enough, it tasted like sunshine! The sauce was thick and the flavor condensed which helped to balance out the strong flavor of our friend, the "fourth stomach" of the cow, which was almost buttery when minced. There was a small amount of red onion "Cipolla di Tropea" which added a bit of texture to the ravioli. The Missus is still talking about this dish.

Of course I had to try the Trippa alla Fiorentina here.

The tripe was oh so tender, and I really like the tomato sauce here. This was really good.

The Missus, still fascinated by Lampredotto ordered the Lampredotto Salcicca e Fagioli.

A nice, slightly smoky, almost Spanish style sausage, with those oh-so tasty local beans, and mildly offal-ly – beefy lampredotto.

A couple of glasses of wine; the very warm and amiable service.

Being able to watch the happenings on the local square.

The big, jolly guy working here wasn't so jolly when a guy sitting on one of the benches threw some litter on the ground. He saw it….went to the guy and made him pick it up and throw it in the trash can. We loved it!

This was our favorite meal in Florence. It was just the kind of place we like.

Osteria Tripperia Il Magazzino
Piazza della Passera
Firenze, Italy

As we took our leave, Caffè degli Artigiani was still doing good business.

I'd eaten quite a bit on this day; but one look at my phone and I knew why.

Meanwhile, the Missus was on the look-out for some Gelato!

Thanks for reading!

Florence – Uffizi Gallery, Bargello Museum, and Lunch at Trattoria Sergio Gozzi

April 19, 2018 mmm-yoso Florence and Tuscany, Italy, Italian Restaurants, Italy, Travel

How'd you like to walk out your front door, look down the street and see this first thing in the morning?

Well, that's the view as we exited the front door of our apartment in the morning.

Today's mission? Getting to Uffizi Gallery right when they opened at 0815. After a couple of shots of espresso….our apartment was well equipped, we still had some time on our hands, we admired the Duomo and the Baptistery for a bit.

The Missus especially enjoyed the bronze doors of the Baptistery.

So we decided that we'd have to visit the Duomo Museum to see the originals (these are reproductions) at the Duomo museum the next day. More on that in a future post.

We headed in the direction of Uffizi down Via Orsanmichele, taking some time to admire the statues imbedded in the exterior of Orsanmichele Church.

We made our way to Piazza della Signoria, usually bustling, was quite sedate at a few minutes before 8 in the morning.

This is pretty much the heart of Florence. With Palazzo Vecchio towering over the square, Michelangelo's David stood in front of the doors of this palace until 1873. A replica now stands in its place.

There's an interesting plaque in the square. Girolamo Savonarola was a Dominican Friar whose prophecies and preaching helped to overthrow the Medici family rule (until 1530) and became the defacto leader of the ruling party of Florence. In 1497 Pope Alexander VI excommunicated Savonarola. On Palm Sunday in 1498, Savonarola and his followers were arrested and tortured. On May 23rd, 1498 Savonarola and two other Friars were executed by hanging on the spot where the plaque is located. Man, what a story!

To the right of the Palazzo is the Loggia dei Lanzi which is filled with statues like Benvenuto Cellini's Perseus with the Head of Medusa, which looks kind of scary and creepy.

And right past that is Uffizi Gallery.

We got into line, under the stares of statues of great figures of the Renaissance.

So, one of the main goals of having the Firenze Card was to be able to get in the reserved line. And being early….there were still folks here before us as we arrived at 8am, we got in with the first group of folks.

There are of course, those works that we all know……Botticelli's iconic Birth of Venus

Or Spring (Primavera).

With so much symbolism.

Or Michelangelo's only known completed painting, Holy Family (Doni Tondo)

Look at the subjects…..they actually look like renderings of statues…….

There are also great views of the Arno River and Ponte Vecchio from various windows.

I loved the Seven Virtues.

Of which, a young Boticelli painted "Fortitude", at the left.

There quite a bit to keep you occupied for hours, like Perseus Freeing Andromeda by Piero di Cosimo, completed somewhere between 1510 and 1513. You see Perseus twice in this work, first flying from with winged sandals. He spies Andromeda, who is to be sacrificed to a sea monster. He swoops down and after dispatching the monster and rescuing the maiden, he wins her hand.

And St Jerome in the Desert by Giovanni Bellini. Bellini panted several versions of this theme, one resides in the National Gallery in Washington DC.

There's an interesting story about this version of Laocoon and His Sons.

You could easily spend the whole day here; though we think about 2 to 2 1/2 hours is more than reasonable.

We left the gallery and headed out across the Arno River on the Ponte Vecchio.

Once upon a time, many segmental arch bridge were covered and lined with shops like Ponte Vecchio; which means "Old Bridge". The bridge was the only way to cross the river in Florence until 1218.

Once upon a time, butcher shops lined the bridge. These days it jewelry and leather goods.

The Missus ended up buying a nice pair of leather gloves.

We walked across the bridge and ended up having a couple of double espressos across from Pitti Palace. Where the Missus planned for our next stop; the Bagello.

Did you know that the Bargello has something in common with my hometown? It turns out that parts of Honolulu Hale, specifically the courtyard, staircase, and ceiling were modelled after the Bargello?

The Bargello is known for its collection of sculpture and statues.

Like Giambologna's "Flying Mercury".

And then there was the one piece that caught my attention. I ended up sending "CC" a text with a photo of the sculpture below and a message that went something along the lines of "and you thought SNF made the Point Move famous. Heck no….it's been around since forever!"

To which CC responded with a comment about the, ahem, attire……no Angel Flights here!

As you can tell, I was getting a bit punchy, perhaps my own version of Florence (Stendahl) Syndrome, it was time for a break.

It was time for lunch.

There's was a place I wanted to try, a place only open for lunch, from noon to 3pm, Monday thru Saturday….three hours! A place that's been in business since 1915. It was just after twelve when we arrived at the rather discreet location across the street from San Lorenzo Church.

I don't think the place takes reservations and the dining area was almost full when we arrived. Luckily we found a table.

The menu is a single page, but it was pretty easy picking out what we were having.

The Missus wanted to try Ribollita (6€ – $7.25US)

Thick, but not too thick, very hearty; this version had beans (delici-yoso) which added a wonderful earthy touch, to the almost potage texture of the soup. The greens added a mild bitter-sweetness. This was wonderful.

Based on our previous meal, I wanted to try the Trippa alla Fiorentina (9,5 € – $11.65).

The surprisingly tender tripe was elevated with a slightly tangy tomato sauce; the flavor of celery seemed present. This was so good…..I've never had tripe so tender and delicious.

Folks in Florence love their meat….so I had to try the Bollito Misto (boiled beef and beef tongue – 10,5€)

This one was kind of odd…though you couldn't accuse the place of false advertising…it was indeed boiled meat……..no seasoning……

Overall lunch was a winner….with a couple of glasses of wine, who could ask for more?

We really enjoyed the service in Florence. Folks were relaxed, but very nice. Trattoria Sergio Gozzi was no different.

Trattoria Sergio Gozzi
Piazza San Lorenzo 8r
Florence, Italy

The Missus couldn't believe a place could survive for over a century open just 3 hours a day. But after eating here we knew why!

It was time for a nap…….

Thanks for stopping by!

Florence – Michelangelo’s David and Dinner at Enzo e Piero

April 17, 2018 mmm-yoso Florence and Tuscany, Italy, Italian Restaurants, Italy, Travel

In contrast to relaxed and laid back Bologna, Florence was a beehive of activity. From the tine we arrived at the train station there were crowds of people. And yet, there was the experience of walking from the train station and turning the corner to see the Duomo.

I have heard that there is no greater representation of the Renaissance than the Duomo. Walking down busy streets and turning the corner to suddenly have it right in front of you certainly has quite an affect.

One cannot deny the influence of the Medici Family on the Renaissance and on Florence itself.

And yes, the crowds were large, but that just made people and pooch watching that much more interesting.

We had a nice apartment on Via del Servi (more on that later), which was large, comfortable, and quiet at night. Our host Matteo was amazing as well. Our next mission was to get a Firenze Card

For me, once settled, I believed we needed to get a Firenze Card. There were places we wanted to see, and the 71 Euro price would allow us to beat some of the lines and I was sure the Missus would have us headed to more than enough locales to make up for the price of the pass. The closest location open was in Piazza della Signora.

So we headed on over.

After trying to figure things out and with the help of various folks at different admission windows I found the line. About thirty minutes later I had our passes in hand.

We headed right to Accademia which was fairly close and I knew we'd be able to cover in a short amount of time because everyone comes to see…..

The masterpiece that is Michelangelo's David in full glory. I must say, there are those great works of art that do not impress very much in person. David did.

This Renaissance symbol of the victory of divine good over evil stands seventeen feet tall. The detail, especially of the hands is amazing.

David hold the classic pose known as Contrapposto ("counterpoise").

And yes, it was a bit busy; but not super crowded as entrance volume is well controlled. Great for us as we had a short 15 minute wait in the "reserved" line with the Firenze Card. Not so great if you were in the line stretching down the block at the hour of 430 pm.

The rest of the Gallery was pretty empty.

We explored a bit; taking time to check out four unfinished works by Michelangelo dubbed "The Prisoners" each seems to be trying to be….to quote the "unofficial" Accademia website – "to free the spirit from matter".

These four works were initially intended for the tomb of Pope Julius II.

We spent about an hour in total wandering around.

The close location of our apartment allowed us some downtime before heading off to dinner.

I had made only three restaurant reservations before leaving on our trip, including one for the first night in Florence. I was curious about the traditional food of Florence and after reading a bunch of food blogs and such, especially this wonderful post on Curious Appetite (check them out), I thought we'd check out Enzo e Piero.

We had reservations for 7pm, which is probably "tourist time" for eating in Florence, but the folks working were so friendly and gracious. and we were indeed the first customers for this evening.

Though by the time our first bottle of Vino Rosso made it to the table; the place was half full.

We both started with soup courses.

The Missus with a very thick Ribollita. A traditional Tuscan "soup", in this case very thick like a potage.

I'd read that most versions had beans, but this did not. The "soup" was really super thick, bread is used to thicken the soup, and this seemed to have a tad too much of it for our taste. the flavors of the greens and other vegetables were muted.

I got the Tortellini en Brodo. Yes, it's mainly known as a classic dish from Emilia-Romagna; but it was chilly outside and I thought this would be nice.

While the broth was a bit light in the flavor department; man that hand made pasta was amazing. I'd really never had anything like this before. The texture, light yet substantial, just the perfect amount of springiness.

If the Tortellini wasn't enough of a pleasant surprise the Lampredotto in Zimino was just plain great.

For the unitiated, lampredotto, made from the abomasum, aka, the "fourth stomach" of the cow and named after lampreys due to the resemblance of the "tripe" to the color and shape of the eel like creature. I didn't expect much and man, was I surpised at the amazing flavor and texture. The texture is almost buttery, there's a mild "offal" flavor that's deeply beefy-savory, the light tomato sauce did a great job of not masking any flavors; just adding a touch of tanginess. You can tell; this was love at first bite. From this point on, it was going to be "all tripe, all the time" for us.

The artisanal beans; Fagioli Zolfini del Vardarno, heirloom Tuscan beans from Valdarno had a deep beany flavor, if a bit under cooked for our tastes.

Last up for the Missus was the Taglierini al Tartufo Fresco. The Missus asked me what "tartufo" was and I told Her "truffles"…..so you know She was going to order this.

The pasta was so springy. Another thing I learned on this trip, I'd been putting too little salt in my pasta water. We found the pasta, didn't need too much olive oil, garlic, onions…… These "fresh" (fresco) black truffles were very fragrant, but quite mild in flavor.

Amazingly, all the dishes, and most everything we had on this trip just wasn't very salty. It was a fantastic experience for us.

Enzo e Piero has been around since 1931, we wanted to start our trip eating more traditional fare, and this was a good start.

Trattoria Enzo e Piero
Via Faenza 105 rosso
Florence, Italy

Did you notice the "rosso" after the number? Well, Florence addresses have two different sets of numbers. The "rosso", red is for businesses, you'll often see a number ending in 'r'; this means red. Residences are in black or blue. While it can be a bit confusing; it's got nothing on the Japanese address system, which I've mentioned in a couple of posts before.

For dessert, well, we were in Florence, so the Missus grabbed some Gelato from one of what seems like thousands of Gelato shops in Florence.

Life was good!

From San Diego to Bologna

April 14, 2018 mmm-yoso Airport/Airline/Cruise/Rail Food, Breakfast/Brunch, Emilia-Romagna, Italy, Italy, Travel

It was quite interesting. When I mentioned to folks that we were headed off to Florence; everyone seemed thrilled, there was all that art, the architecture, and the history. When I mentioned visiting Emilia-Romagna, I'd often get quizzical looks….why not Milan, Verona, or "fill in the blank"….. And yet, getting to the source, the home of Parmegiano-Reggiano, Balsamic Vinegar, Mortadella, Prosciutto, the (at that time) mysterious Culatello, and of course what folks here call "Bolognaise" sauce, the "Ragu" drew me in. On my shelf resides a cookbook that spawned an entire series on NPR. Published back in 1992, The Splendid Table (which spawned the radio show), won a James Beard award, and is about the food of Emilia-Romagna. I'd always wondered about the food and foodways of the region and I finally had my chance. Plus, I just had to visit a city whose nickname is "la grassa" (the fat one) and since Bologna's other nickname is "la dotta" (the learned), I might learn a thing or two.

First things first of course. We had to get there. Our flight from San Diego to London Heathrow was ten hours long. We then had a five-and-a-half hour layover, before flying to Bologna. We'd be arriving at 1130 pm. Things were a bit hectic, so we didn't have time for dinner before leaving. We figured we'd get something on our flight.

Still, our flight wasn't until 845pm and we needed something, however small, to eat. Since we were flying in Business Class, we had use of the Airspace Lounge. Be it ever so humble, flying on British means that you have a choice of complimentary wraps, appetizers, and desserts in the lounge. Along with drinks.

Which aren't half bad. Though the Missus doesn't care for the glassware used for wine and champagne in the lounge; who are we to complain? It's a nice getaway from the chaos before boarding.

I'll go over BA's Business and First Class seating in a future post.

Strangely, both that Missus and I have found that food on international flights from the US is not quite as good as on return flights for both BA and JAL. I'm not sure why. On this outbound flight, I really didn't enjoy my dinner very much.

The crab rillettes presentation looked odd and it was really bland. The beef filet was really tough. I enjoyed the fruit plate the most. Nice and refreshing.

Because of the lie-flat seats; we were both able to get a couple of hours of sleep, which I believe is quite important.

We both actually enjoyed the Traditional English Breakfast. Which wasn't too bad.

To be perfectly honest; I've mentioned this before, Heathrow is not my favorite airport. The lack of signage, having to go through rather chaotic security check a second time, the "cattle call" flight notification in Terminal 5….you cool your heels, while trying to find some seating until your gate comes up, sometimes waiting until 45 minutes before your flight. In many cases you have to then catch the tram to your find you gate and so forth.

So even though the Galleries Business Class Lounge can be pretty busy. It's still an oasis during a five-and-a-half hour layover.

For some reason, we always find seats tucked away in the corner. The Missus can watch Her movies on the iPad. I can check work emails and catch up on things.

We can hydrate, the food is nothing to write home about, but on occasion, we'll try something like clotted cream, which a coworker of the Missus said we just "needed to try".

I'm still not certain what the symbolism of the Horse with the Lampshade Hat is to BA though…..

Eventually, we made our flight, and arrived in Bologna at 1130pm. I gotta say, getting through immigration at Guglielmo Marconi Airport was amazingly quick and efficient. It helps that we travel with only 8-10 kilos of luggage each, regardless of whether we're staying two weeks or two months, you usually don't need more. Plus, this is Europe, you can usually get whatever you might need.

Because of our late arrival and having to catch the train to Florence the next day, I booked a hotel two blocks from the train station. It was the most expensive room we'd have during our entire stay; but the check out time (noon) was convenient for our 155pm train and they served what was a pretty good breakfast.

We still have over three hours to kill before checking out. So we headed out.

From the Porta Galliera, which was one of the original gates of the medieval city of Bologna.

Past the Park of Montagnola.

And down Via Indipendenza which is considered the main street of the city. Bologna is famous of the "Portici" the porticoes which cover over 22 miles of the city.

To what is considered the heart of Bologna, Piazza Maggiore.

This large area is connected to the Piazza del Nettuno, which houses one of the most well known of landmarks, the Fountain of Neptune. Erected in 1564, there's quite a story behind this fountain, you can read more about it in this wonderful post. A really neat fact about the fountain; Maserati's logo is based on the trident of the fountain.

That large church is the Basilica of San Petronio. Construction on it was started in 1390. It is the 6th largest church in Europe. There's a distinctive look to the façade of the church. That's because it's unfinished. According to the design it was to be larger than Saint Peter's in Rome (link to our post), but Pope Pius IV put a stop to that, diverting the funds to create a new university. Hmmmm……more intrigue.

We'd end up hanging around Piazza Maggiore when we returned to Bologna. Though we ended up not spending quite as much time here as we wished.

We headed down one of the side streets….quite surprised at how quiet things were.

We wandered down the porticoes when the Missus noticed this church; San Giovanni in Monte.

From here, things went off the rails a bit, as the Missus seemed fascinated with just wandering around.

We then got a bit lost. When trying to locate our position on the map; it seemed we were off of it! Time to turn on data and find out where we were.

Turns out we were on a street named Via Libia and pretty close to the Bologna San Vitale rail station….pretty far off course.

We righted ourselves and walked back; through the university district, pass the Le Due Torri, the two landmark leaning towers of Bologna.

Time was tight, but we did make the noon check-out and walked the short way to the train station. The high speed rail from Bologna to Florence is supposed to only take 34 minutes. However, like we'd find while riding the rails in Italy, unlike the Shinkansen in Japan, trains here are terminally late. And this was no exception; 25 minutes late.

We actually found this kind of humorous. And we were on vacation…….

Next stop; Florence!

Thanks for reading!

Where in the world are we – seconda parte

April 6, 2018 mmm-yoso Emilia-Romagna, Italy, Italian Restaurants, Italy, Travel

Just another quick post from abroad.

We’re in the land of castles,

And where there’s a bridge that the devil might have built.

Regardless, there is great beauty here.

And the food has been oh so delici-yoso.

Tomorrow we’re off to a city famous for their Byzantine mosaics. I’m fairly tired right now.

So it’s time for a rest.

Thanks for stopping by!

Where in the world are we – prima parte

March 31, 2018 mmm-yoso Florence and Tuscany, Italy, Italian Restaurants, Italy, Travel

Yes, it’s that time again. We’re off on another, all too short trip.

Guessing this one is easy.

From the amazing art.

To the great architecture…..

Land views are lovely.

We’ve stuck to mostly local, traditional dishes and the food has been surprisingly good and hearty.

Every meal seemed to be better.

People here have been amazingly nice. Though the crowds can be maddening.

Anyway, I don’t want to hog up your time.

We hope everyone has a Happy Easter!

Rome: Back to Trattoria da Danilo

May 9, 2015 mmm-yoso Italian Restaurants, Italy, Rome, Travel

As we often do during our trips; we decided to hang around where we were staying during our last evening in Rome.

In our earlier walks in the area, we noticed the ancient city walls right down the street.

We followed the street and ended up at the Arcibasilica Papale di San Giovanni in Laterano, one of the Four Major Basilicas of Rome.

You basically can't walk a single block without running into something historic in Rome.

We headed back to the room to freshen up.

So where were we headed for dinner?

Because of all the Chinese businesses in the area, the Missus walked into the Chinese Market and asked the manager if there was any "great" Chinese food around. His Answer? "Ummm, they are all just about the same." So we decided on going back to the place we we started this little journey at; Da Danilo.

This time however, we'd not be strong-armed into getting all the antipasto. Even though the owner kept staring daggers at us during our stay. No, we enjoyed a nice Malvasia Bianca and the really enjoyed the main reason for returning; the Carbonara with truffle.

I'm willing to put up with the "typical Roman service" (so says Max), the pushy owner…just for this. The perfectly prepared pasta, the creamy-tongue coating sauce….the shaved truffle.

The rather bland orecchiette da danilo……

And the nice, but not outstanding braised oxtails…..

Would not be reasons to return. But that carbonara….that's a "Desert Island Dish".

Trattoria da Danilo
Via Petrarca 13
Rome, Italy

And so we ended our time in Rome. Where it seems history was made on every corner.

And while the Missus wants to return to Rome; it's not high on my list. But tempt me with that Carbonara again and I might give in.

Thanks for reading!

Rome: Esquilino Market, Trastevere,and Ai Tre Scalini

May 8, 2015 mmm-yoso Italian Restaurants, Italy, Markets & Grocers, Pubs and Pub Grub, Rome, Travel

We had eaten well the night before and slept even better. The normal 5am wake up was missed and we slept in a bit.

Having your morning espresso is a good time to people watch. You gotta admit, some of these folks sure have their own…well…style. Like that guy to the right. Notice the matching outfits. Which got me to wondering…was he an accessory for the poodle, or was the poodle….well, you get the point, right?

Our first stop this morning was nearby; Esquilino Market. The area has quite an international flavor…there were quite a few Chinese businesses and we heard Mandarin being spoken from our window every evening.

There's quite a variety available.

It was a nice break.

From this point on, we past those familiar places.

From the Victor Emmanuel Monument we headed left and came upon the Teatro di Marcello, the Theatre of Marcellus. Completed in 13 B.C., it was the largest theatre in Ancient Rome.

I like how the place looked and later found out that the upper floors of the theatre have been converted to apartments. Pretty cool, huh? How'd you like to live in and above such an historic structure?

The Missus decided that we'd be visiting the district of Trastevere right across the Tiber River.

Trastevere and the lovely colors and lovely cobbled street turned out to be my favorite area in Rome.

I loved the lanes, the folks walking the alleyways. There seemed to be much more daily life going on here. Clothes hanging from windows, folks going on with their daily routines.

The place really has character and charm.

One turn, and suddenly we were in front of Santa Cecilia, dedicated to Saint Cecilia. The church is supposedly built upon the location of her house.

There are quite a few artifacts and artwork in the church. But it is far from being gaudy…the lines clean.

An interesting note about Saint Cecilia. She was martyred between 176 and 180 A.D. Her body was exhumed in 1599 and displayed no signs of decay! She is the first Saint whose body was found to be incorrupt.

Even though there were quite a tourists, you turn a corner and find a little alleyway that you'll have all to yourself.

There you come across little treasures like this little bakery. Which we later found out was named Biscottificio Innocenti, a very well known and regarded cookie/biscuit shop.

The Missus bought a couple and really enjoyed them.

Biscottificio Innocenti
Via della Luce 21
Rome, Italy

While headed to Piazza de Santa Maria, we came across this gelato shop.

The Hazelnut Gelato I had from here was my favorite of all the gelato I tried in Rome.

Fior di Luna
Via della Lungaretta 96
Rome, Italy

Of course having this refreshing gelato on the fountain steps of atmospheric Piazza di Santa Maria might have something to do with that opinion.

If Trastevere were a living organism, Piazza di Santa Maria would be its heart.

And the Basilica of Santa Maria, one of the oldest churches in Rome stands over the piazza.

I loved the artwork of Cavallini in the apse which dates back to 1291.

By now we were getting a bit hungry, so we decided to head on back.

As we headed back toward Termini Station, I noticed the beautiful Ivy hanging on over Via Panisperna in the Monti neighborhood. Taking a look to the right, I noticed the name of a place I'd read about; Ai Tre Scalini. What luck. We were getting pretty hungry.

Basically a wine/beer bar, the place was doing some major business.

Folks seemed to be having a great time and the staff here were very friendly and helpful.

We each had a glass of wine and started in on the menu.

Knowing that we'd be having the pretty rich and hearty Roman fare for dinner, we decided on getting some charcuterie and cheese. Starting with the Salsicce al Tartufo – truffle sausage.