Travel – Page 102

Suzhou: Noodles and Sheng Jian Bao

January 17, 2011 mmm-yoso China, Chinese Restaurants, Suzhou, Travel

I realize that I really need to finish all my posts on China before we head off to our next vacation, so I'll try to catch up in the next few weeks.

We left Hangzhou on bus, the distance being about 100 miles and took about 2 hours. We arrived at the bus station in Suzhou, just South of downtown and made it to our hotel. This location of Green Tree Inn had seen better days. The carpets were scuffed and torn, much of the place smelled of cigarette smoke, the rooms were on the beat side. Still, you really couldn't beat the location just two blocks from Guan Qian Jie, the main downtown pedestrian street. Plus, the staff here was very nice, especially the housekeeping gals. One was so nice we actually tried to tip her…….which seemed to shock and offend her. I guess she didn't want to be mistaken for being a capitalist??? We were a bit hungry so after settling in we decided to grab something to eat. The young lady at the front desk suggested a noodle shop just a few yards away from the hotel.

The Missus said this seemed to be a chain of some kind. And as with many of these types of shops the drill is as follows….. you order and pay at the front desk.

Take your ticket to the back window were they'll prepare your order and you pick it up and eat at your table. As you can see, most of the dishes here are below 10 Yuan ($1.50 US).

The Missus went with an Eel Noodle Soup:

She told me the Eel was not very good.

I had the same type of noodle soup, but with a pork chop and preserved vegetable.

I felt about the same way regarding my pork…. it was tough and dry.

In spite of looks the broth was very mild in flavor, though the noodles, which were very loooong weren't bad.

We hedged our bets with some Chao Nian Gao (stir fried rice cakes), which was much better, if a bit more filling than the noodle soup.

After getting some food in our bellies we walked up the two blocks or so to the heart of downtown Suzhou, Guan Qian Jie. The first thing I realized is that although Suzhou seemed much more crowded than Hangzhou; things seemed to move at a slower pace. Unlike Hangzhou, which seemed to be much more "edgier" folks here seemed to enjoy relaxing, people smiled, laughed, and things seemed much less harried.

Almost directly from the hotel, our street took us up right behind the well known Xuanmiao Taoist Temple, also known as the "Temple of Mystery". I never found out what the "mystery" was, but maybe someone out there can fill me in.

With all the hawkers and vendors, this place sung out "tourist trap" to us….. so we decided to just enjoy the view. But we did find out that the first temple was built in 276 A.D. destroyed a couple of times. The current main hall was rebuilt during the Song Dynasty and the only remaining structure of that style in Suzhou.

Guan Qian Jie has all the trappings of the "new" China; a KFC and a TGIFridays is close by…..

But turn the corner and you'll see something like this…….

Looking at the line, I thought it was for a movie or something. But the Missus told me that this place made stewed meats….. and apparently was very popular.

Peering through the window, I was tempted, but the line went all the way down the street.

Renmin Lu is one of the main streets in Suzhou. One one side of the street is one of the many canals which why Europeans gave Suzhou the nickname of "Venice of the East".

The water was a bright green. But strangely, there was no smell…..

Folks lived above many of the businesses lining the street….. I love the shoes drying in this photo.

Actually this bridge is a landmark for us. Right to the North of it was this shop, which was doing some major bang-up business.

As you can tell by the line……..

So what were most of the people waiting in line for?

Why Sheng Jian Bao of course!

While I found us a spot outside the restaurant, the Missus paid at the front counter and stood in line. While waiting, She brought out Her camera and took almost thirty photos! Here are a couple:

There was an army of workers making Sheng Jian Bao! I found us two seat at one of the tables outside the restaurant. When I first looked at the SJB I was unimpressed…..

But it only took one bite…… the tops were surprisingly fluffy, the bottoms looked burnt but were just nice and crisp…. I'm guessing that those pans have been heavily seasoned over the years. The interior was full of lip melting soup…… slightly sweet, and very savory. The meat(quite a bit actually) was tender and full of pork flavor…. on the sweet side for the Missus; I loved it.

I saw a middle aged woman looking for a seat, so I gave her mine, and grabbed one of the plastic kiddie stools. She smiled and thanked us, and told the Missus "you're not from here, are you?" When the Missus said no, she decided to become our SJB "tutor". Using her chopsticks to grab an invisible SJB (strangely, she was the only person I saw who wasn't having SJB… she was having noodle soup). She instructed the Missus to turn the SJB on its side. Then "you bit a tiny hole in the side to let the steam out, and suck…Suck….SUCK all the good juice out first! Careful not to burn your tongue." It right then that I knew…… I was really going to enjoy this city.

As we finished our meal and walking up Renmin Lu, a little army of women, each carrying a stool and packages walked passed up ahead, and disappeared into an alleyway. Curious, I made sure to peer down the alley when I passed it…… it was women workers going on their lunch break.

Chicago – Johnnie’s Beef (Arlington Heights)

January 10, 2011 mmm-yoso Chicago, Sandwiches, Travel

Awakening from a Foie Gras and Sauternes Duck Sausage coma, I felt compelled to make the most of my time in Chicago and at least try to get something to eat. I really didn't feel like driving back into downtown Chicago, but what could I get in Arlington Heights? I quickly had an answer. Earlier in the day I drove up Arlington Heights Road past a shop that the same fella who mentioned Peep's told me about. Leaving no room for wiggle, I was simply told that "Johnnie's Beef makes the best Italian Beef, no two ways about it!"

So after a quick shower to rejuvenate myself, I jumped in the rental car, and headed North for a couple of blocks to Johnnie's Beef. Walking through the doors a wonderful beefy smell hit me, and I was ready for action.

The service…. well, more like the procedure here was mercifully fast. You order, and in no time you have your Italian Beef ready to go. And because there is a constant flow of customers…. you really don't want to mess up the rhythm by taking too much time.

The sandwich….I got mine "dipped" with hot peppers, rang in at a shade over four bucks. It's not a super-stuffed sandwich, but well proportioned for my taste.

I've had Italian Beef sandwiches at Mr Beef (On N Harlem) and Portillo's, but nothing has come close to this. The beef wasn't cut too thin, but was very tender, yet not mushy, full of beefy goodness. The sandwich was just soaked enough, the crust retained a nice chew, and the bread was wet, but not over-saturated with juices that had retained a good beef flavor, with a belnd of herbs and spcies that were balanced. In addition to some crunch, the spicy giardiniera had the perfect amount of heat and brine to wake up my still sluggish palate. In fact, I guess you could say that this was strangely invigorating.

Good thing Johnnie's is in Chicago. If it was here in San Diego, I'd be in line a couple times a week.

The next morning while checking out, thinking that perhaps there might be something even better out there, I asked the young man at the front desk for a recommendation for an Italian Beef sandwich. He immediately replied, "Johnnie's Beef." Digging a little deeper, I mentioned that I had Johnnie's the night before, and if he'd have any other recommendations. Suddenly, a loud, disembodied voice boomed out of an open doorway, "if you tell him anything other than Johnnie's you better get your friggin' a$$ outta here cause you're fired!"

Well, I guess that answers my question, huh?

Johnnie's Beef
1935 South Arlington Heights Rd
Arlington Heights, IL 60005

Madison – Lao Laan-Xang (Williamson St location)

December 13, 2010 mmm-yoso Lao Restaurants, Madison, Wisconsin, Thai Restaurants, Travel

**** This location of Lao Laan-Xang has closed

One of the restaurants I had on my list from my previous visit to Madison was Lao Laan-Xang. Though it seems that many regard Lao Laan-Xang as a Thai Restaurant(and the sign does say Laotian Cuisine), the Owners are Lao, and there were more than few Lao style dishes on the menu…… and it had been a while since I've had good Lao food. Luckily, the weather had cleared by my last evening in Madison, and I was able to head down to the Williamson Street location of Lao Laan-Xang.

The tiny, but very warm and welcoming shop brought back memories of my first experience with Thai Food at the tiny Keo's on Kapahulu Boulevard back in the very early 80's. Keo's has of course gone to greater things, but my memories of that tiny but welcoming restaurant stay dear to my heart. This was before the great Thai food boom, and indeed I recall when I told one of my dates that we were going for "Thai Food", she asked me if "this was a chicken place?" (Thigh food, got it?) Which had me laughing the whole evening……. it was also on that very evening we saw a very petite woman with big hair and big…. ummm….well, anyway it turned out to be Dolly Parton. On another night, I spied Steve Perry from Journey having dinner there. And though this dining room would never reach the orchid filled heights of Keo's, there was something cozy that just reminded me of that place.

And amongst the Crab Rangoon, Fried Rice, and Curries, there were two of my favorite Lao dishes. The first was hard to find since it was under it's Thai name of Khao Tod Nam Som…. but there it was, what I call one of my "Death Row Dishes" – Nam Khao ($9.50):

Before I continue, let me apologize for the photos. It get's pretty dark on "The Willy" at night. This version of Nam Khao was not bad, but lacked the amount of crunchiness I enjoy. Also, it was less sour, lacking that fermented sourness I enjoy. Still this was ok, I've had worse, though it was miles behind the versions I've had at Aisa Cafe, Vientiane Restaurant in Garden Grove, and not even close to what I had in Vientiane…. as in Vientiane, Laos. It was also fairly pricey, about 30% more than what you'd pay in San Diego.

I also ordered the Mok Pa ($15.99), with some reservations, as the only decent version I had of this dish was at Vietiane in Garden Grove. But this was very good.

I had learned how to make this dish after taking a cooking class at Tamarind Cooking School in Luang Prabang, and loved the complex flavors so much that I've made this at home, though I end up steaming it rather than grilling it. This dish did not disappoint; the fish was wonderfully moist and tender, but not over-cooked, and did not have any muddy flavor at all. The flavor of dill was there, adding that refreshing clean taste without over-powering the dish. The lindering flavors of the herbs was excellent. The portion size was quite large, almost enough for two.

About the only thing not very good about the whole meal was the very low quality of the sticky rice. It was off-white and I bit into some terribly hard pieces of rice. i'm thinking it must be pretty hard to get good quality sticky rice in Madison.

I won't go into the bland steamed "gringo" vegetables, because heck, this happens everywhere in San Diego as well.

We received good service, our Server was friendly, and our waters were refilled. The food was quite good, so I'll surely be headed back here the next time I'm in Madison.

Lao Laan-Xang
1146 Williamson St
Madison, WI 53703

Madison – Sprecher’s Restaurant and Pub

December 10, 2010 mmm-yoso American/New American Restaurants, Beer, Madison, Wisconsin, Pubs and Pub Grub, Travel

*** Sprecher's has closed

In an email before my trip to Madison, Cathy reminded me to be careful, since it seemed that there was always something happening on every other trip we've taken….. Earthquake before our trip to Peru, riots before our trip to Thailand, and of course, having to fly through an eerie Mexico City Airport on the way back from Guatemala right when the 2009 Swine Flu Pandemic broke. Between those trips we visited Vietnam/Cambodia, I travelled to Madison, and of course our trip to China. So I guess I was due……..

It wasn't anything too bad, just the strongest storm ever recorded in the Midwest. The rain and 60-70mph winds discouraged me from driving, so we decided to stick close to the hotel. A couple of those restaurants on my list would just have to wait until next time. Still, I really didn't see myself going all the way to Madison and eating at Denny's. On my first evening in Madison, during my drive back to the hotel, I noticed a pretty busy looking restaurant/bar, and the folks exiting looked local, not like folks from all the hotels in the area. The name of the place was Sprecher's, which I later found out is the same as that of a very well known Milwaukee County Brewery of the same name. According to the story, Sprecher Brewery was founded by Randal Sprecher who is originally from….. California. Sprecher had a degree in oceanography, but was unable to pursue a career in that field due to a little problem…… he got seasick! Don't know if it's true, but it's a nice story.

After making our way from the freezing parking lot we entered the dining area which looked like a Bavarian themed Rock Bottom, or something of the sort. The menu really didn't thrill me much either with items like Thai Lettuce Wraps, Crab Cakes, Seared Tuna, and Cajun Pasta on the menu. Until I found a couple of items more befitting of a place called Sprecher's.

The beer list was a bit more interesting. And I noticed that "tasters" were offered at three for $4.50 and six for $9. So I thought I'd go for the six, after all, I had envisioned 2-3 ounce pours…. but what I received seemed to be much larger than that.

Our server, named Anna was a joy…. efficient and cheerful, I had her choose my six beers, which she had arranged for me, from light to dark. She had also taken the time to list each beer in order by hand. Anna told me that they used to have print-outs for folks ordering the sampler but stopped doing that a while ago, she thought I'd like to know and remember what I was drinking.

This is the El Rey, a very effervescent Mexican Ale. My favorite was the Abbey, slightly fruity, perhaps edging on the sweet, but I enjoyed it.

If you've read my previous posts on Madison, you'll have a pretty good idea of what I was having as a starter….. it's Deep Fried Cheese Curds ($7) of course!

As Fried Cheese Curds go, these were just ok. Not even close in flavor or texture to those at the Old Fashioned, but serviceable. More gooey and stringy then other versions I've had.

And just because I'm so predictable, of course I had the Sprecher's Brat with Beer Cheese Potatoes ($9):

This was just ok, and really tasted like concept brew pub food, being very corporate in presentation and flavor. The brat really didn't catch my attention, and it was covered with a load of flavors….whole grain mustard and sauerkraut I can take, but the caramelized onions with what seemed to be bacon was a bit much. I really couldn't taste much beeriness in the beer cheese potatoes, in fact it was pretty bland as a whole.

Perhaps in the end, the corporate chain-like food didn't impress me very much; but the service was excellent, the prices not bad, and I really enjoyed the company. It sure beat being out in the wind and the rain.

Sprecher's Restaurant & Pub
1265 John Q Hammons Road
Madison, WI 53717

Hangzhou: Dinner

November 21, 2010 mmm-yoso China, Chinese Restaurants, Hangzhou, Travel

Waking refreshed after a short nap, the Missus decided that we should head out, and walk around a bit and perhaps grab some dinner. Traffic was pretty heavy, and the air quality started to reflect the congestion.

Along the way, the Missus found a fruit stand selling fresh Mangosteen…….. which instantly became an obsession.

This stuff wasn't cheap by Chinese standards, in this case 20 Yuan per 500 grams…. close to $3 a pound. We ended up buying Mangosteen whenever we could find fresh, good quality fruits, in spite of the price.

In Hangzhou, history is everywhere…. you could be walking on a side street and find a monument…. we found this one near Xihu (Westlake).

This were the remanents of the original Hangzhou City Wall.

Fairly soon the question of dinner came up……… we wanted to try a few more Hangzhou dishes, but really didn't want to head back to Zhiweiguan again. While walking, the Missus noticed this restaurant…..

This little restaurant was doing some pretty good business with several large parties……

The young lady who waited on us was very nice and efficient……. the best service we encountered in Hangzhou. We ended up ordering quite a bit of food; I guess we didn't know how hungry we were as we finished just about everything.

I recall "Sandy" inquiring about West Lake Duck in an earlier post; I'm pretty sure she was referring to Hangzhou Jiang Ya – Hangzhou Duck. This restaurant's version looked like this:

I understand that there are several versions of this dish. This duck had a cured texture to it, there wasn't much meat, but the flavor was nice, mildly gamey, with a mild "red-cooked" flavor to it.

I really didn't enjoy the Dongpo Rou at Zhiweiguan, and really wanted to try it again.

I really enjoyed this, the fat was silken, and the juicy meat very tender without being mushy. Though the Missus thought this was still too sweet, I enjoyed the sweetness and the rendered fat…. which tasted great over rice…. lots of rice.

I'm sure the photo speaks for itself.

Another dish we hadn't tried was the famous Xihu Cu Yu – Westlake Sour Fish. And since we were leaving the next morning, we had to order it.

Whoa…… the first thing that hit me was how sour this was. It was like someone placing a guillotine chokehold on me. A second later, the intense teeth wracking sweetness came through. It was a bit too much for us. The fish itself was excellent, moist and tender, cooked to perfection……. but man that sauce was like drinking vinegar laced with sweet syrup. We ended up removing the fish to a separate plate away from the sauce.

Arriving in Hangzhou just at the end of Bamboo Shoot season, we decided to see if they were available. The young lady told the Missus that they did have fresh bamboo shoots, but it wouldn't be as good as it was a few weeks earlier. Still we wanted to check it out.

When the dish arrived, I noticed the glaze looked much like the sauce used for the fish; but thankfully, it wasn't as sweet, nor as sour, and the earthy flavor of the shoots came through, as did the mild natural(thank goodness) sweetness of the shoots. This was delicious.

After dinner, the Missus needed something "sweet", I told Her She should've just had another order of that fish……. We ended up at, guess where? Yep, back at the multi-level monstrous Zhiweiguan. This time at one of the take-out windows at street level.

The Missus bought a couple of snacks…….

She really enjoyed this one……

The next morning we woke ready for our next city and caught a cab down to the bus station. Man, this place was busy. The ticket windows were somethings else…… doesn't it look like the betting window at the racetrack?

Hangzhou's bus station looked fairly new, and was relatively clean.

While sitting it struck me how difficult it would be to travel via bus if you didn't read Chinese, as there were no signs in any other language.

Suzhou was just two hours away…….

Madison: The Old Fashioned

November 20, 2010 mmm-yoso American/New American Restaurants, Madison, Wisconsin, Pubs and Pub Grub, Travel

The Old Fashioned in downtown Madison was on my list from my previous visit. One person I ran into told me that some of the dishes served; stuff like beer soup, weisswurst, knackwurst, and creamed herring. I was also told that the prices were reasonable…. and that there was always a nice selection of local brews on tap…… need I say more?

I made my way from Chicago, checked into my hotel, and took a nice drive to downtown Madison. Since this was a Sunday evening, I didn't encounter any traffic, and found parking with minimal effort. I parked in the shadow of the Capitol, and had a chance to enjoy the autumn colors…… something we don't really encounter here in San Diego.

The Old Fashioned is located right across the street from the Capitol building.

In spite of the looks, this place was packed to the gills, so I decided to grab a stool at the bar. Unfortunately, it's basically almost pitch black dark, so this will be a "PWTSDS" ("putz" – places where the sun don't shine) so I must apologize in advance for the lousy photos. As soon as I sat, a very chipper young lady named Ashley took my order. Friendly and efficient, always striding with a purpose, I gotta say, Ashley was awesome. There were thirty different brews on tap, Ashley asked me if I like "hoppy" IPAs. She suggested I try the Tyranena Brewing Company Bitter Woman IPA, especially since it was only $2.50. It was "not a big investment". To my very uneducated palate, it was quite hoppy, but not very bitter, with a hint of citrus. It turned out to be fairly refreshing.

Since I was in Wisconsin, where Germans make up the largest ancestry group, known as home of the Bratwurst…. of course I had a Brat. I had a single Miesfield's Market Sheboygan "Grand Champion" Bratwurst ($5.95):

Served on a hard roll, with a nice brown mustard, onions, and pickles, this was quite good. The brat was unlike anything I've had in San Diego….. less strong herb flavors, a bit sweeter, a very balanced flavor overall.

And just because I could, I had a side of Beer Battered Cheese Curds ($3), Ashley recommended getting the Horseradish Dip (50 cents) with these……

These were the best battered cheese curds I've ever had… not that I've had a bunch of them in my life. It wasn't too gooey, with a hint of cheddar flavor, and even a bit of a "squeak" to them. The batter was crunchy, yet light.

In spite of watching the Chargers lose on the television; this was probably my favorite meal in Madison. I'd come here again in a second. Nothing fancy, unpretentious, great service, and relaxing in spite of the crowd, I really enjoyed this meal.

The Old Fashioned
23 North Pinckney St.
Madison, WI 53703

Hangzhou: Lingyin Temple and noodles at Kui Yuan Guan

November 18, 2010 mmm-yoso China, Chinese Restaurants, Hangzhou, Travel

Right across from Fei Lai Feng, is the Lingyin Buddhist Temple. The temple was originally built in the early fourth century, and has been rebuilt at least 16 times over time. After paying admission, we entered the very busy grounds of the temple.

Due to the crowds of tourists, all paying admission, it was easy to lose sight of the fact that Lingyin Temple is a functioning Buddhist temple. And having been to Thailand and Laos, we were a bit shocked to see young ladies wearing pumps and mini-skirts and guys wearing tank tops (one had even taken his shirt off) and shorts on temple grounds. Folks disregarded signs within the halls prohibiting photos, and even let their children climb into urns within the cultural treasury hall…… it was all a bit surreal.

And yet every so often you'd see a monk walking the grounds.

Or folks making offerings……

In spite of all the wonderful Buddhist statues and carvings it was hard for us to enjoy Lingyin Temple. The amount of noise, and the crowds made it a bit of a tiring experience.

We headed back to our hotel, for a nap, and to attempt to escape the humidity. As we passed this doorway, the Missus suggested trying this place out. Strangely, some noodle soup sounded pretty good…….

I would later find out that this noodle restaurant Kui Yuan Guan is very well known around China. According to the story, the restaurant was founded during the Qing Dynasty, in the late 1860's.

There was reason the place was pretty busy in spite of the heat and humidity.

The menu is full of various noodle soups, and there is a single phrase English description of each type of noodle soup.

I went with the Pork, Bamboo Shoot, and Preserved vegetable noodle soup (10 yuan – about $1.45).

I was to find out later that Kui Yuan Chuan is credited with creating this dish, called Pian Er Chuan, go figure…..

Other than the very lean and tough pork (which I expected), I really enjoyed this soup. The combination of the salty-sour tones of the preserved vegetable, with the earthy and mildly sweet flavor of the fresh bamboo shoots, and what seemed to be a mildly rich pork based broth was a great combination.

The Missus selected the Shredded Eel Noodle soup (23 yuan – about $3.20).

The Missus seemed to enjoy Her soup well enough. We both found the noodl es adequate, though nothing special. This restaurant also marked a first distinct occurrence we were to find several more times at noodle soup restaurants in the region. Our noodle soup arrived, but no spoons were provided. I noticed that other customers simply brought the bowl up to their face and drank their soup, and I was perfectly fine with consuming my soup that way. But for some reason, this wouldn't fly with the Missus, who, in every case would flag down one of the employees and ask for spoons……. it turned out that soup spoons were only provided upon request.

The shop had the A/C going pretty good, which made the soup go down well. As we stepped back out into the humidity, we still felt satiated…. and ready for a nice nap!

Hangzhou: Zhiweiguan (again) and Fei Lai Feng (Peak Flying from Afar)

November 7, 2010 mmm-yoso China, Chinese Restaurants, Hangzhou, Travel

After dinner at Zheweiguan, I slept quite well…. probably because I was exhausted. The Missus got up the next morning raring to go. We decided to just grab a quick breakfast at Zhiweiguan(again), and catch the bus to the Lingyin scenic area.

This time we went with the first floor area, which sells snacks and fast-food type dishes. At this time of the morning it was waaaaay more empty than usual.

The drill here, similar to many other places is…… first you go to the counter and buy script:

You then go to the various counters, place your order, pay with script, and get your food. If you have script remaining at the end of your meal, you return them to the counter and get a refund.

This is what we ended up with:

The Missus enjoyed the porridge (when doesn't She?), but the youtiao (fried dough) was on the greasy and soggy side.

The Xiao Long Bao were actually better here then in the more upscale restaurant on the third floor.

The bean curd skin stuffed with glutinous rice and broad beans was also pretty good.

Crisp on the exterior, perhaps it could have used a bit more flavor, but the glutinous rice sure was hearty and filling. This made for a fairly substantial breakfast for us.

After the meal, we caught the bus to the Lingyin Scenic Area.

Even as we walked up the trail to Lingyin Temple, a line of buses were already unloading tourists.

So instead of hitting the temple with the first wave of tourists, we took a detour, and decided to check out Fei Lai Feng (Peak Flown from Afar), also known as Nimble Vulture Peak (Ling Jiu Feng). This 700 foot peak was supposedly named by an Indian Monk named Hui Li. Hui Li noticed that this limestone peak was so different from everything around it, and also that it resembled the mountains in India. He theorized that the peak had flown to this spot from India… thus naming it "Peak Flown from Afar).

There are trails around the peak, with over 500 Buddha Statues carved from limestone, many dating back to the Song Dynasty (10th Century).

Even more fascinating for us, were the caves lining the base of the peak.

There are over 300 carvings in the wall of the caves….. which adds a sense of drama to the whole experience.

Within one of the main caves, named Shexu Cave, there is a spot where the sun shines through a crack at the top of the cave. I was told this is called "one thread of heaven" which makes quite an impact.

That's not to say that the trails up and down the peak aren't quite dramatic in their own way. Because it takes mild effort to walk up and down the peak, there are less tourists, and some very nice carvings.

Of course, it's not just the carvings that catches the Missus's eye……

So far on our visit to Hangzhou, we enjoyed Fei Lai Feng the most…… but right across the street was Lingyin Temple.

Stay tuned……

Chicago: Hot Dog! Gene and Jude’s Red Hots and Peep’s

November 2, 2010 mmm-yoso Chicago, Hot Dogs, Travel

Last week, I went back to Madison for some training. Like the last time, I flew into Chicago and drove to Madison. This meant that I was able to stop a bite (or two… or three) on my way out of town. This time, I wanted to make sure to try a couple of places I'd never been to before…. and of course, it was only right that I have a sample of one of Chicago's iconic food items; the hot dog.

On previous visits, I'd had dogs from Superdawg and Weiner Circle. This time around Cathy's brother recommended that I give Gene and Jude's, a place that should rightfully and proudly be called a joint, a try. Gene and Jude's is located in the community of River Grove just a couple of miles from O'Hare, which made access pretty easy.

Established in 1946, Gene and Jude's longevity says that they must be doing something right. Later on, I mentioned this place in conversation. I was told that Gene and Jude's are always among the top sellers of Vienna Beef Hot Dogs in Chicago.

I was also told to always expect a line, but not to worry as the line moves very quickly. You just get in line behind this sign.

I stood in awe as the guy two places in line in front of me ordered 10 dogs and fries…. only to be topped by the woman in front of me who ordered two dozen! The guy taking the order didn't even blink an eye.

I felt positively unworthy ordering but a single dog (with everything) and fries. You order, then move over to the next spot and pay.

I grabbed my dog and fries and headed over to the counter to eat.

Yes, the place is a bit worn, and possibly in need of a good scrub-down, but that just seems to add character……

For $2.20, you get a dog covered with a handful of fries…..

The fries are hand-cut, natural, that is, skin on, made fresh from potatoes. These were greasy, but in a good way, and even though I'm not a fan of this type of fries(i.e. In-N-Out), these had good potato flavor.

Below the fries the Dog was a mess…..

The roll was pretty much a mushy mess. "Everything" on this dog consisted of sport peppers, piccalilli, onions, and mustard. No tomato, pickle spear, and no celery salt. In fact, the very same guy who seemed to know everything about hot dogs told me that this was the way Chicago Hot Dogs were originally served. Though this was a mess, I loved the snap of this dog…. it was the snappiest of the four I had on this trip.

In spite of the rapidly disintegrating roll, I thought this was a decent dog. And can you beat the price? The "Hot Dog Nazi" - dive atmosphere added to the (lack of) ambiance. Nothing fancy here, just a couple of things on the menu….. and don't even think about asking for ketchup on your dog!

While eating my dog and fries, I noticed this copy of an article on the wall…..

The article tells of Charlie Trotter's recommendations for best dogs in Chicago….. and Gene and Jude's is one of the three mentioned. The mental image of Charlie Trotter eating greasy fries on a messy dog elbows on the worn and in need of a good scrubbing counters cracked me up.

Gene & Jude's Red Hot Stand
2720 River Rd
River Grove, IL 60171

A few weeks before leaving on this trip, I sat next to a guy from Chicago at Sushi Yaro. When he mentioned where he was from, I told him I'd be flying to Chicagoland before driving to Madison, and staying one night upon my return. We got to talking about Chicago Hot Dogs, and the beauty of the neighborhood Hot Dog stand. His stand was a place called Peep's in Arlington Heights…. in his words, "not the best, but good, and a very typical neighborhood stand. There used to be one in every neighborhood." Since I was able to take my time driving to Madison, I decided to stop at Peep's. It was a bit of a detour from the freeway…….. but very easy to find on the corner of Rand and East Thomas Street.

**** Peep's has closed.

Basically not much more than a shack with a counter and a small dining area.

Here's the Dog with everything from Peep's……

Your standard issue Chicago Dog, nice sprinkling of celery salt, sport peppers, tomatoes that were kind of mushy, and the pickle didn't seemed, well pickled enough. The bun was a bit drier then I appreciate. Strangely, all the dogs I ate were of the same heritage; dogs from Vienna Beef, but they were all different. This one had less snap, though the flavor was right on.

I've had better dogs, and many much worse……

Peep's Hot Dogs
1600 N Rand Rd
Arlington Heights, IL 60004

Hangzhou: West Lake and Zhiweiguan

October 13, 2010 mmm-yoso China, Chinese Restaurants, Hangzhou, Travel

At then end of my last post on Hangzhou I mentioned that we were still a bit confused as to the exact location of the famous Xī Hú (West Lake) I was looking at a pagoda on Wushan Hill, when I heard a woman talking to the Missus. I was to find out later that the woman told the Missus that there's nothing really worth Her time on Wushan Hill. When the Missus asked the woman which direction to West Lake, the woman pointed up at this sign…..

Sigh….. can you say clueless tourists? Actually, this woman was really friendly, born and raised in Hangzhou, and told us to follow her; she'd show us to the bus stop that would take us around West Lake.

And even though there were times that the Missus could only understand every second or third word due to the woman's accent, She did learn quite a bit. The woman told the Missus that most of the young people working the restaurants in all the tourist areas are not from Hangzhou, and really don't care about anything except making money. This was a theme we heard everywhere, if someone was rude or provided terrible service, someone would say that "it is because they are not from here." The woman gave the Missus a few tips and pointed out the bus stop. The Missus was also told that there was a Silk Expo taking place, where everything was real silk, and prices were good. We caught the bus and arrived at the building right across from the famous Long Jing (Dragon Well) Tea Farm.

And did some shopping……

After doing some shopping, and buying a couple of gifts, we got back on the bus. The Missus pointed out a gentleman who had an entire Jinhua Ham lying on the console behind the driver……

The woman we had net told us to get off at the Qu Yuan Feng He ("lotus in the breeze at crooked courtyard") stop.

The woman was right, this turned out to be the part of West Lake we enjoyed the most.

Even though it was pretty hot and humid, this area felt fresh and cool. I'm sure some of it was due to the immense beauty.

Walking along the causeways things started getting a bit crowded, though there were still areas where folks had carved out an area to peacefully read and relax.

You started seeing tourist cruise boats taking people on tours of West Lake.

As we circled the North part of the lake, things started getting a bit more crowded.

The views were still quite beautiful, in spite of the crowds and noise.

There are tons of things to see, including one that got the attention of the Missus; the Tomb of Wu Song. Wu Song, is one of the great heroes of Classic Chinese Literature. According to the Missus, when She was young, all children knew the story of how Wu Song "killed the man eating tiger with his bare hands." Water Margin, one of the Four Great Classic Classic Novels of Chinese Literature tells the story of Wu Song.

By the time we got to the Eastern part of West Lake, I was bushed, sweaty, and had pretty much burned out on West Lake. Plus my left foot was starting to ache pretty good.

You could really tell that the Missus felt pretty tired as well since we started noticing the people more than the views. Like the guy at the right in this photo…..

We started counting the "crimes against Western fashion and mores" this guy was commiting. A short list:

1 – He was carrying his wife's/girlfriend's handbag.

2 – He was wearing capri pants!!!

3 – He was wearing a long sleeved dress shirt tucked into those capri pants.

4 – He had his shirt tucked in, but wasn't wearing a belt

5 – And last, he was wearing capri pants, but had dress socks on!!!

As you can tell, it was time to move on; we were hot, tired, and sticky….. and hungry.

The one restaurant we had heard about before setting foot in Hangzhou was Lou Wai Lou (楼外楼). When the Missus mentioned Lou Wai Lou to the woman earlier in the day, She recommended Zhiweiguan instead. She told us that this is where she brings guests who want to taste Hangzhou food. Zhiweiguan is a monstrous restaurant by Western standards at over 7,000 square feet, and four stories. The area outside the restaurant sells snacks and take-out food.

Like most of these multi-story restaurants, the first floor did snacks, fast-food, and cafeteria style service. It was just packed like crazy on this evening.

Wanting something less chaotic, we skipped the first floor, and went to the third floor. (The second floor did seafood, and the fourth floor holds the banquet rooms and bar). As we stepped up to the third floor, we realized that even though this place was less chaotic, it was just as packed! We won't complain about the service here, as the Servers and staff was literally running from table to table!

Though it was much cooler here, we could tell that the A/C was working full blast.

We were both bushed, and the heat and humidity had sapped our appetite. We just ordered a couple of items.

The Missus wanted ot taste the Nian Gao (rice cake) which She really loved.

The wrappers on the Xiao Long Bao were really thick and gummy.

I thought the filling was decent, but the Missus thought it to be too sweet. In fact, the Xiao Long Bao being served downstairs looked better.

The Missus enjoys a good Jiu Niang Tuan Yang (Fermented Rice with Sesame Balls 酒釀湯圓), and really enjoyed this version.

One of the most well known dishes of Hangzhou involves pork belly…. so you know that I was going to have Dongpo Rou! Named after famous Song Dynasty poet and artist Su Dongpo (Su Shi). According to the story, Su Dongpo had a visitor arrive, and decided to simmer some pork. Su Dongpo and his friend became engrossed in a game of chess. Suddenly realizing that he had left the pork simmering, Su Dongpo rushed to check on his pork. he was amazed when he saw that the pork had attained a beautiful color, and the juices created were wonderful. At least that's how the story goes……

This classic dish is pork belly (aka streaky pork) cooked in a combination of soy sauce, sugar, and Shaoxing (which is about 60 km from Hangzhou).

We decided to order two of these.

Man this was sweet…. like pork candy, much too sweet for me. It was also tougher and drier than I would have thought that braised pork belly would be. I wasn't really satisfied with this, I needed to have it again to see if this was really how Dongpo Rou should be……..

We returned to our room exhausted, though I had Dongpo Rou on my mind as I drifted off to sleep……