Travel – Page 49

Strasbourg – Experiencing the Christmas Market and Dinner at Chez Yvonne

September 20, 2018 mmm-yoso Alsace, Festivals & Events, France, French Restaurants, Travel

It was a rather quick hour and forty-five minute train ride from Gare l'Est to Strasbourg Station. From there we walked to the apartment we were staying at which was right across the river on the Grande Île, the "island" which is the center of the city which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We were a bit shocked to find bag checks and road blocks manned by soldiers for folks crossing over to the Grande Île. I didn't know it at the time; but Strasbourg, along with being famous for having one of the best Christmas Markets in Europe is also the home of the European Parliament, the European Court of Human Rights, and the Eurocorps.

We settled into our apartment; which was huge……three bedrooms….crazy. And we loved the views across the river from the front door and the unit.

Here you can see the bridge we crossed and the security detail in place.

Like I mentioned above; the apartment we stayed in was large and so comfortable. And the details were kind of…well, interesting.

We took a nice short nap and awoke refreshed. We decided to head out and explore before finding the restaurant where we had dinner reservations.

During the Christmas Season (from November 24th this year, 2018) Strasbourg has an amazing Christmas Market.

Actually the term "Christmas Market" is incorrect, as there are if I recall correctly, 11 different markets (called "Christkindelsmärik") that occupy different areas of the island. The Grande Île is quite walkable, so we just started at the one closest to us at Place Broglie, which is also the oldest Christmas Market in the city, having been established in 1570!

Once the sun sets and the lights are turned on the city is transformed.

It's really hard to not get into the spirit of things with all of this joy, bright lights, the atmosphere is quite magical. Yes, I'm sure at its core there are commercial concerns, but man, you'd have to be a major scrooge to not get into the spirit of things.

The basic center of things is the giant Christmas Tree in Place Kléber. The market surrounding the tree is called the "Village of Sharing" and we were told that the stalls here sell their goods and food for charity.

Strasbourg is called the Capitale de Noël (the Capital of Christmas) and it's easy to see why.

Don't forget to look up…..there's something to see on almost every building.

Strasbourg Cathedral is quite grand as it rises above the city. The spire rises to 466 feet. The Cathedral, built in the Gothic style was, for over 200 years (227 to be exact) the tallest building in the world! Because of surrounding buildings and the size of the square, it's actually somewhat of a challenge getting the whole structure into a single frame. We'd spend some time visiting the Cathedral (for one main reason) the next day.

After wandering the stalls around the square we had to head off to find our destination for dinner.

I had wanted to try the traditional food of Alsace so I made dinner reservations at a Winstub. Strasbourg and Alsace as a whole sits on the Eastern border of France. In fact, the eastern border of Strasbourg sits on the Rhine. Across the river is Germany and the city of Kehl.

Over the last 350 years of so, control of Strasbourg has gone back and forth between France and Germany, so you can imagine the influences of the cuisine of the area.

We found our destination Chez Yvonne under another wonderfully decorated window, down a side street, close to the Cathedral.

A restaurant has stood in this location since 1870; and Chez Yvonne dates back to the 1950's.

We were seated upstairs. We enjoyed the Service which was friendly and the Missus enjoys Alsatian wines.

We started with the Goose Liver Foie Gras.

The was wonderfully creamy, though a bit too cold in terms of temperature. The flavor was on the milder side for Foie Gras….and that sea salt perfectly enhanced the flavor.

The Missus got the Veal Tongue which was super tender and quite mild in flavor.

As you can tell, this is hearty, meat and potatoes fare. Still, very nicely prepared, straight forward food. There was a mild vinaigrette dressing the tongue.

If you've read this blog long enough, you know the Missus loves fermented and pickled items. Thus I ordered the Choucroute Garnie….yes choucroute is what we know here in the states as Sauerkraut….and I'm truly aware that "Garnie" means "throw every kind of protein you can on the plate".

The Missus loved the cabbage; it was much more tender than what passes as sauerkraut here. I enjoyed the knack (the long snappy sausage) and the rinderwurst (the smoked sausage) the most. The pork and the liver dumplings were on the bland side. From this point on; the Missus and I decided to just hit all the sausage and choucroute stands.

All in all, this was a fun meal. The service was very nice and we got a taste of the rather heavy traditional cuisine of Alsace. Luckily, the only thing we'd had the whole day were croissants, so we were able to put away all this meat with no problem.

Chez Yvonne
10 Rue du Sanglier
67000 Strasbourg, France

Nice and warm, with full bellies we decided to take the long way back to the apartment.

The lights, the lively hustle and bustle, it just put us in the right frame of mind.

Yes, it's wonderful Strasbourg……

Capitale de Noël indeed!

Thanks for stopping by!

Tokyo – Kizo Ramen

September 17, 2018 mmm-yoso Japan, Japanese Restaurants, Ramen, Tokyo, Kamakura, and the Kantō Region, Travel

It seems that during the course of our visits to Tokyo that we've developed some "traditions" of sorts. Dinner at Suzunari is one of them. And as we had breakfast, we decided to keep anther going.

The breakfast, we were given vouchers from the hotel, was basic and fine. We decided to head on down to Tokyo Station a few hours early; stash our bags in the always convenient lockers, and spend some time shopping, eating, and just enjoy our last few hours in Tokyo. We did manage to do some shopping; buying some gifts for folks back in San Diego.

When it came time to eat, well, that was easy. It was Ramen Street for us……a little habit that I think will become a tradition. On our first visit, it was the ultra-hyper Rokurinsha, on our last visit Oreshiki Jun. What was it be this time around?

Hmmmm…..we picked two and decided to check them out. After peeking into the two places; Kizo won out.

Mainly because the clientele, at least on this day all seemed Japanese; while the places (i.e. Rokurinsha with the huge line) had so many tourists. A big plus was that the specialty at Kizo is Sendai Gyutan Negishio Ramen…….beef tongue – scallion – shio ramen.

And as is the drill; we ordered a couple of other items on the menu and basically shared the ramen….like the gyoza.

Not the best "skins" which were brittle and plastic-ky. The filling was much too salty and a bit on the dry side.

Not the most auspicious start to a meal.

We also ordered the Beef Tongue Crouquette.

Man, the panko breading on this was fantastic; light and so crisp. This was the only light thing about the croquette as the filling was so rich; great beefiness, but perhaps too much of a good thing. A bit over-the-top for us. Wonderful textures though.

Which had us wondering how the ramen was going to be. We shouldn't have worried…..

As you can tell; we ordered extra ajitama, which was serviceable, the yolk decent and definitely not over-cooked. And those slices of beef tongue were heavenly….so tender, so beefy……as only beef tongue can be. The broth was good; not overly salty, it had almost a light garlic-beef-pork flavor to it. The tongue feel was really good, much thicker than it looked as it coated the nice, springy-chewy noodles well. The negi added a bit of pungency and crunch to things, but really wasn't needed in my mind.

And while we didn't have a whole lot of ramen on this trip, this was easily our favorite.

Kizo (Tokyo Station – Ramen Street)
1-9-1 Marunouchi Chiyoda Tokyo

As we left Tokyo Station I thought "well, it's three down; five to go….I wonder what we'll do when we reach eight?" Hmmmm…..let's not dwell on that.

Let's just enjoy the "interesting" and somewhat humorous signs that are posted…..

As with all of our trips to Japan; this one was chock full of memories….and Sakura!

Thanks for stopping by!

Nikko – Toshogu Shrine, Lunch at Yasai Cafe Meguri, and the “Venus of Gyoza” at Utsunomiya Station

September 14, 2018 mmm-yoso Japan, Japanese Restaurants, Tokyo, Kamakura, and the Kantō Region, Travel

We had made the walk up from the train station and into Nikko National Park. We walked up the stone stairs past the walls gilded with moss. It was a lot to take in. On a misty day like this was; walking past moss covered stone lanterns, there is a feeling you get, mystery….wonder….like you've wandered onto a set of some movie…..

We were only spending the day in Nikko, so other than the Shinkyo Bridge, our main focus was on visiting Toshogu Shrine where Tokugawa Ieyasu, Shogun and founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate which ruled Japan for over 250 years, is supposed to be buried.

There is quite a bit to see here. Among my favorites were the Sanjinku, the Three Sacred Storehouses. Which were lined with gold leaf……hard to believe these were storehouses.

My favorite feature were the carvings of elephants that adorn the Kamijinko (Upper Sacred Storehouse), which look like they came out of some Sci-fi comic.

These are called the Sozonozo Elephants (“imagined elephants”), as the artist who carved these, Kano Tanyu had never seen an elephant. Working from descriptions of the beasts he created this interpretation of what he "imagined" elephants looked like.

Right across from these structures is the Shinkyusha (the "Sacred Stable").

Notice all the folks taking photos here. It's because of the eight panels of monkeys lining the structure. The monkeys are depicting the lives of humans.

Especially popular is the Sanzaru ("Three Wise Monkeys").

You know the saying, right? "Hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil." Which I've been told are also three of the principles of Tendai Buddhism.

And then it was past the gate and up the stairs to the Yomeimon Gate.

Man, there was a lot to see here…..

From here 200 stone steps leads you up to Ieyasu Tokugawa's Tomb.

Man, that mist sure added to the atmosphere……

After this we headed back down past all the other visitors; even some four legged ones.

Half the fun was people watching…….I guess the hill was kind of steep for some as they seemed to need a little boost.

We walked down the path to Futarasan Shrine…where the fog was really thick. Along with being the oldest shrine in Nikko, the area around the shrine is known for something else.

There is a tree near the gate of the shrine where a cedar and oak have joined together. This has come to be known as the matchmaking tree; you leave an offering for good luck in your relationship.

At this point, the Missus and I determined that it was a good time to head on back down the street and grab some lunch. Our philosophy when we travel is always to see the one or two things that are important to us; the rest is gravy. We always treat a destination as if we'll be returning someday.

We headed back down the street in the direction of the train station. Along the way; we saw this building.

Which definitely was not a "art and curios" shop as folks were eating inside. A quick search on Google Maps determined that this was Yasai Café Meguri, a vegan/organic restaurant. I looked at some of the photos and saw that the place served yuba bean curd; which I really enjoy. Plus, yuba is a specialty of Nikko.

So we decided to eat here. We entered, were warmly greeted, and led to our seats……which made the Missus crack up. It was my kryptonite……..floor seating….

I've mentioned having to sit using tatami style seating before, my fear of having my legs fall asleep then trying to stand and destroying half a restaurant. Oh, the lovely noise of my joints snapping and popping as I sat on the floor.

Anyway, both the Missus and I got the Yuba Bean Curd Special.

We really didn't find this particularly to our taste. Everything was cold; including the rice under the yuba. The food was rather bland; the bean curd skin crunchy, but somewhat water-logged.

The thing we enjoyed the most about the dish was the green salad; the fresh, crisp bitter greens.

Probably just not our kind of thing.

Yasai Cafe Meguri
909-1 Nakahatsuishimachi
Nikko 321-140, Tochigi Prefecture

We made our way back to the JR Station. Got on our train and headed back to Tokyo. We did have an hour layover in Utsunomiya where I decided to search for a statue I'd read about; the Venus of Gyoza.

Walking just outside the station we found her, in all her beauty ummm creepieness uniqueness, a woman creature emerging out of a gyoza. The "Venus of Gyoza". After all, Utsonomiya is considered the "capital of gyoza" in Japan. You can read about it in this article. Over the years; I've started to include one odd interesting place during our travels. And after all; this is still a food blog….and this has something to do with food, right?

The Missus was kind enough to humor me. Then we went back into the station and did some shopping (looking for local snacks) before our train arrived. On time as usual; after all, this was Japan!

Thanks for reading!

San Francisco – Mourad

September 10, 2018 mmm-yoso Fine Dining, Moroccan Food, North African Food, San Francisco and Silicon Valley, Travel

Much like our trip to Portland in 2015, part of reason was just to rest in air conditioned goodness….which is what we did after lunch at China Live. We awoke refreshed and decided on a short stroll before dinner. We decided to just take a stroll down Market to the Ferry Building.

It was a nice stroll, past the hustle and bustle, the street merchants were just closing up for the day.

We walked through the Ferry Building, giving the Missus a chance to check out various places as possibilities for tomorrow's lunch.

We walked through and past various shops…..most were closed or closing for the day. And then headed out back to the Ferry Terminals and just basically sat and watched.

I guess this must seem just routine to folks who live in the Bay Area; but for us, it was just relaxing and fun.

A short time later we decided to head to our dinner destination. Our good friend Candice had recommended Mourad, a Michelin Star restaurant that serves Moroccan inspired cuisine with local ingredients and modern techniques. The location was a few blocks from our hotel on New Montgomery Street. We were a bit early for our reservation, so we had a seat at the bar. Our mixologist was quite the showman and very knowledgeable. I had, what might be the best and one of the most expensive ($24) cocktails I've had in recent memory. A magical concoction called "Legend of the Brave".

A blend of Scotch, ciociaro, jalapeno-pineapple shrub syrup, "Scotch mist", and blood orange, this had that nice combination of smokey-savory-bitter and not-too-sweet flavors I enjoy in a cocktail. The Missus had some Scotch and is now somewhat enamored with it.

Soon enough, we were notified that our table was ready. It was in the upstairs portion of the restaurant.

Mourad does have a tasting menu and what they call "la'acha" family sized meals….which based on what we saw on two other tables would be just too much for the Missus and I. We ordered a couple of dinner items and two sides, which turned out to be more than enough for us.

The first three dishes were brought out together.

Things started off with the Lamb Tartare ($18), which was topped with sliced green apple.

The tangy green apple added a nice crunch but really didn't add much to the overly salty tartare. Ditto the wheatberry. The sodium level just wiped out any flavor the tender lamb would have.

Next up; what they simply call "Eggplant" ($18) on the menu.

This dish featured a wonderful range of textures and flavors. From the tender earthy eggplant and oregano, the brightness of za'atar, the crunchy, very clean-brininess of the cucumber. On occasion you'd have the distinct, nutty, resinous of pine nuts mixed in. The bread was hot and wonderful. The puree was slightly smokey, mildly sweet, but also on the salty side. It was best used as a spread for the bread.

When the Foie Gras ($26) arrived….well, we weren't too sure about it. Wrapped with shredded and from what we could taste, pickled green papaya and topped with freeze dried strawberries (??), this was very good!

The crunch, mild sourness of the green papaya and the light sweetness of that trendy freeze dried strawberries to complement the richness of the creamy foie gras was nothing short of amazing. We could detect the slight fragrance of rose water as well. Add to that crisp, buttery, and slightly sweet brioche toast and this was easily my favorite dish of the evening.

In a display of almost flawless timing, our last dish and two sides were brought out seconds after we had finished our first three dishes and our table cleared. We both thought the service at Mourad was very professional and pleasant.

The Duck Basteeya ($25) was presented to us as Chef Lahlou's signature dish.

You really couldn't fault the presentation. The filo dough around the eggroll-chimichanga-ish basteeya was light and crisp; it had been put together perfectly. Unfortunately, while the duck confit was lovingly, we found this to be much too sweet for our taste.

I enjoyed the Heirloom Bean Shakshuka ($10); topped with a "ying-yang" of bread crumbs and what tasted like a feta cream.

The beans had a wonderful texture; just enough of a bite and I enjoyed the blend of flavors in this one.

The Missus really loved the Kale ($10).

This was a wonderful braised kale dish; the Harissa, something I use quite often in my cooking adding some zip. It was a wonderful, hearty dish.

Overall, we enjoyed our meal at Mourad; there were some nice surprises and the meal ended with two comforting dishes. The service was excellent. And that cocktail! I think we'll be back…probably to eat at the bar…..some foie gras, eggplant, kale, and beans……and a couple of those cocktails!

Mourad Restaurant
140 New Montgomery St. #1
San Francisco, CA 94105
Hours:
Mon – Fri 1130am – 10pm
Sat – Sun 5pm – 10pm

From Parma to Ferrara

September 7, 2018 mmm-yoso Breakfast/Brunch, Emilia-Romagna, Italy, Italy, Travel

*** Not much food in this one

After having a huge meal in Piacenza we drove back to the Agritourismo to find out that they had moved us to a smaller room! Apparently, they had reservations for a fairly large family who had booked a small room. We were told that they had tried to contact us, but were unsuccessful……and just decided to move us to a smaller room. Hmmm……well, at least they only charged us half the price for our "new" room….which unfortunately, was in the main building and was really loud….well, whatever. We did manage a nap and woke when folks started heading out for the evening. Still not hungry, we decided to head on back to Parma. I still had my parking stub from the previous day and we managed to find parking in basically the exact same spot, so I didn't have to pay.

We crossed at Ponte di Mezzo and noticed that folks below at Piazza Ghiaia were having a good old time.

As we walked down the stairs I cracked up……it appears that they were having some kind of American themes "50's" night……check out the billboards in the arcade area!

And of course the food trucks were serving burgers……

Among other things.

Our favorite part was watching the band and the folks dancing.

In some ways it seemed like a celebration of being American, in a way we don't really do anymore. It was a lot of fun……

Soon enough we headed back to our room and crashed, awaking the next morning before anyone…..

Grabbing some breakfast and then heading out.

Had things been perfectly timed, it would have been logical to head to Modena next. However, because of some critical dinner reservations, there was an extra night. So, I decided that we might enjoy spending a night in Ferrara. I got us a very nice room right outside the city walls….with parking. The woman who ran the B&B was so nice and the room was huge. It was just a short walk into the city.

Remember how I mentioned that Piacenza was pretty empty on Easter and we were told that folks liked to get out of big cities on holidays? Well, I think most of them were here.

Ferrara itself is quite stunning….more on that in a future post. The entire center of town was a market on this day….and we bought a few gifts.

And perhaps should have bought a few more?

The city is quite beautiful.

And charming. Piazza Trento e Trieste is pretty much the main square in Ferrara, right in front of the Cathedral. This is where we saw what might be our favorite street performer of all time, a puppeteer, who just had the Missus mesmerized, with his performance of a dog trying to impress his "love" to Louie Armstrong's version of La Vie en Rose.

Other dogs passing by would start barking at the puppet…..the gestures, the movement….the "pooch" even got scolded for peeing once….all while trying to impress his "lady friend". We gave this guy 2 Euros and he probably deserved more. When I went to put the coins in his container I noticed that it was almost full! This puppeteer was that good.

Here are a couple of excerpts.

We still watch these every so often. Hope you enjoy them!

And thanks for stopping by!

San Francisco – China Live

September 5, 2018 mmm-yoso Chicken Wings, Chinese BBQ, Chinese Restaurants, San Francisco and Silicon Valley, Travel

It was funny how we ended up staying in San Francisco over the Labor Day weekend. Both the Missus and I had been working pretty hard and there was no trip in sight for a couple more months. It was a brutal Sunday here with record temps in the high 90's. For some reason, I decided to check to see what the weather was like in San Francisco…..61?!?!? I basically told the Missus "the heck (using a more colorful verb) with this….let's go to San Francisco." And She agreed. It had been quite a while since we visited the city; in recent years we'd stuck to visiting places to the North and the South of San Francisco. And I couldn't remember when we last visited……so I dug into my photo archives and holy smokes! Check out the date on this photo!

We last visited nearly sixteen years ago! It was when the Missus and I took Her parents to visit. A trip was way overdue. So, I booked our flight, hotel, and a couple of restaurants….two had been on my "list" and one was a recommendation of my good friend Candice. Instead of the usual suspects; like Gary Danko, et al….we were going a bit different this time around.

We arrived, caught BART, and managed to check into the Marriott Marquis early, at 10am! Things were looking up. We freshened up and just headed on out. I figured a lot had changed over the last sixteen years…..but of course, some things stay the same.

There's a certain nostalgia to walking through Chinatown, a mixture of old school, somewhat traditional businesses, it was almost comforting seeing Golden Gate Bakery and ducking into various food shops. Along with all the cheesy souvenir stores….good lord' where there always that many here?

One thing the Missus and I quickly noticed….Chinatown seems much cleaner and tidy than when we used to visit in the late 90's and early 'oughts.

I had been fascinated with the opening of China Live. We'd been to a couple of branches of Eataly in Europe….in Florence, Bologna, and Copenhagen. And when China Live was touted as being the "Chinatown" version, well, I just wanted to check it out. I'd also heard that the food; while priced on the high side was pretty good.

There a small shop with a variety of items; some really interesting looking tea and other stuffs. And a rather "hipsterish" looking dining area….you know; all that wood.

I kinda knew what I wanted to order; Sheng Jian Baozi, the "Peking" Duck, and the Pork Belly. They were out of the pork belly, so I went with plan B….which they were out of as well. So, we just decided to try the wings.

Meanwhile, the Missus ordered some tea; not cheap at $13.95….but man; it was really floral and helped to cut through all the richness of the food.

First up; the Sheng Jian Bao ($12)….yep twelve bucks for 4.

The filling was juicy, light, and had a nice porky flavor with just the right amount of ginger to balance things out. The dough was terrible; it wasn't cooked correctly making the dough on the top really gummy, the sides mushy….and the bottom was way too thick. I mean, I really didn't expect anything like we get in China or even what my MIL makes….but that wrapper was a total fail. Still, the filling was really good.

When our duck ($26) arrived, the Missus and I looked at each other, rather disappointed. The color didn't seem right……but we were oh so wrong…..

The skin was oh so thin and crisp; the fat had been rendered….it seems into the flesh of the duck which was supremely moist. The sesame buns were hard and dry and the duck delicately flavored, so we ended up just making cucumber (which was very good quality), scallion, and hoisin sandwiches and just enjoyed the duck on its own. This is the best duck I've had in a very long time. Like I mentioned earlier, the seasoning on this was quite mild as was the duck which wasn't very gamey. This might be the best item we had on the entire short trip.

Based on the previous two dishes we were quite surprised when the "Chicken of the Sea" Crispy Wings ($14) arrived. There were ten wings in this dish.

I bit into one and cracked up…….growing up in Hawaii, one of the must have Chinese Restaurant dishes is Ong Choi with what we call "harm ha" (Shrimp Paste). The wings had been battered with that….it was a bit of overkill and seemed really salty. Though, unlike the usual MSG laden wings we often get; this one didn't bring on thirst……still it was waaaay too salty. The quality of the wings was excellent, no broken bones, no blackening of the flesh….the skin was thin and perfectly fried….the flesh moist, the size optimum for that skin to meat ratio……we'd have really loved this if it wasn't such a sodium bomb.

The service was professional, the meal, not cheap at seventy bucks. The place did fill up quite quickly, a mixture of younger Chinese who seemed well off, Chinese tourists, hipster looking folk, and some families. We enjoyed our meal here…..and will likely return for that duck.

China Live
644 Broadway
San Francisco, CA 94133
Hours:
Mon – Thurs 1130am – 10pm
Friday      1130am – 11pm
Saturday    1030am – 11pm
Sunday      1030am – 10pm

Leaving China Live; we headed to Stockton and started weaving our way past the markets and dim sum shops. Near Washington Street, I could here drums and percussion going….there was a Lion Dance happening somewhere…..

We found it happening in this street.

We got there just as the fireworks were going off.

The Missus and I laughed and basked in the noise, smoke, and shower of red paper……

It had been too long since we'd been in this wonderful city.

Paris – The Pantheon and a Revisit to Arnaud Nicolas

August 25, 2018 mmm-yoso France, French Restaurants, Paris, France, Travel

After finishing up shopping and eating near Saint Germain; the Missus and I decided to just wander around a bit and ended up at the Pantheon.

Though we'd visited the area before, we decided to actually enter and check the place out. There was one thing I really wanted to see……in February of 1851, physicist Léon Foucault, assembled scientists at the Paris Observatory and using a simple pendulum and his newly derived sine law to prove the earth rotates. A month later; Napoleon III requested that he repeat the demonstration in the Pantheon in the central dome.

The Pantheon was originally built to be a church to dedicated to the Patron Saint of Paris; St Genevieve, who is said to have saved Paris from the armies of Attila the Hun in 1451. The church was completed in 1790, which coincided with the beginning of the French Revolution. In 1791, the National Assembly determined that the structure be turned into a mausoleum.

Internment can only be presented by the President and approved by parliamentary act.

On the day we visited there was a special exhibit of the works and career of Marie Curie.

Who was the first woman enshrined in the Pantheon in 1995, over 200 years after the first internment. I was especially interested since one of my Mom's favorite movies was Madame Curie.

We decided to check out the crypt and walk among the remains of France's "National Heroes".

We then walked back to the 7th and took a nice break (nap) at the apartment. It was dark when we awoke. We headed off to dinner…..we had enjoyed our meal at Arnaud Nicolas the previous evening so much that we booked a return visit.

You can read my previous post on Arnaud Nicolas….. Let me just say that it was just as delicious on this visit as well.

It's the charcuterie that's the star here. And the service was just as friendly and gracious as the night before.

Arnaud Nicolas
46 Avenue de la Bourdonnais
75007 Paris, France

Our train to Strasbourg wasn't leaving until the next day at 2pm; as is the norm when on vacation, we woke rather early. With no plans we decided to pack, then just start walking.

We ended up strolling down Rue du Commerce in the 15th Arrondissement. It was a less touristy and quite diverse section of the city.

We turned around near the Eglise Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Grenelle.

We walked back and found the Rue de Grenelle Market…..where we just wandered and browsed for a while.

And had a quick coffee and croissant at the corner shop.

Then headed back to the apartment….packed, then caught the metro to Gare l'est…….

Next up….Strasbourg!

Denali State Park Milepost 135 and Revisiting Twister Creek Restaurant & Denali Brewpub (Talkeetna)

August 23, 2018 mmm-yoso Alaska, American/New American Restaurants, Beer, Gastropub, Travel

There was still a lot of daylight left when we completed our flightseeing and glacier landing and the Missus wanted to do something. So we decided to head out and take the short (by Alaskan standards) one hour and change drive up to Denali State Park. Don't confuse Denali State Park with the enormous and much more popular Denali National Park. The park is known for the views of Denali and the Alaskan Range; especially from the stop at milepost 135 of the Parks Highway. And even though it got overcast and drizzly, the views were still breathtaking.

We also loved the signs.

After lingering for a bit; the Missus was getting hungry, so we decided to head back to Talkeetna. We did make a brief stop at Denali Brewing Company on Talkeetna Spur Road….just in case they'd have that Single Malt Whiskey in stock. And while we were greeted by a very friendly pooch; there was no whiskey to be found.

Since we'd only had a couple of scones for breakfast; we were getting hungry. We drove back to the lodge and walked the half mile into Talkeetna. We just decided to head back to Twister Restaurant & the Denali Brewpub for dinner.

Just like the previous evening, this was the busiest place on the street. And we were in for another surprise; the Hostess Stand was manned by one of the folks that worked at Talkeetna Air Taxi. We'd often see folks working multiple jobs…..we were told it's normal during the high season….though it was somewhat funny….I think there's a sitcom hidden here somewhere. We also saw our favorite Server from the night before. She made sure to stop by and tell us hello.

I started with a Mother Ale; a very light almost Pilsner like brew. Very easy to drink.

We started with the item they were out of the night before; a monstrosity named "The Gourmet" ($15).

Candied Pork Belly in a mess of too sweet BBQ sauce, topped with a relish with jalapenos, red and green bell peppers, and even more pork belly…in the guise of bacon. This is one of those dishes that look great on a menu….but is just a bit too over-the-top for us. At least we'd be amking up for missing out on lunch, right?

We decided to share a dish and went with the Fish and Chips with Sweet Potato Fries ($16), which the Missus thoroughly enjoyed.

The batter on the fish and chips was fine, it was crisp with body, the seasoning perfect for our taste, the fish was moist, though it wasn't of the best quality…..still, not bad, and more than enough for the two of us.

Of course, one of the main reasons for returning here was "dessert"; or more appropriately a digestif; the wonderful newly released single malt whiskey. It was wonderful.

We loved the service and the prices were quite reasonable.

Twister Creek Restaurant/Denali Brewpub
13605 E Main St
Talkeetna, AK 99676

After dinner we walked around Talkeetna a bit….the Northern Lights Gallery was awesome…..I chatted with the owner of ne of the gift shops….he mentioned visiting San Diego in the 80's and the "Gaslight" (Gaslamp) district. We loved the folks here; friendly, but not overly so……just good people.

Just as on the previous evening, I sat by the window of our room and watched the Susitna River rolling by. And of course, I'd bought a bottle back from the Denali Brewpub.

This was a very nice Belgian Strong named One Tree Birch Beer made with birch syrup. This was very smooth, bready, with light citrus tones, and the sweetness of a typical Belgian Strong. I really enjoyed it.

It was 9pm but it looked like 4. I watched the river roll on by and though about what a great day it had been.

And there was still much more to come.

Thanks for reading!

Flightseeing and a Glacier Landing (Talkeetna Air Taxi), Talkeetna Roadhouse, and Concsious Coffee

August 17, 2018 mmm-yoso Alaska, Bakery, Travel

***** Not very much food in this one – some lovely photos though. I'll be back tomorrow with another post.

We headed off from our lodge at around 830 in the morning. We had scheduled a "Flightseeing Tour" with a Glacier Landing, another of the Missus's "bucket list" items. We decided to "hoof it" and first find out where the offices of Talkeetna Air Taxi was….it was an interesting walk past the train tracks. The nice folks in the office confirmed that we should report back by at least 10 or so.

What else to do but head into Talkeetna and grab something small (remember, we'd be flying) to eat and perhaps some coffee.

And while we weren't too impressed with our lunch the previous day at Talkeetna Roadhouse, we really enjoyed the bread. So we just bought some scones……the best one was the Jalapeno and Cheese scone which was savory-yeasty-slightly spicy-mildly cheesy goodness.

Talkeetna Roadhouse
13550 E Main St
Talkeetna, AK 99676

Just a few yards away stood Conscious Coffee, and rather busy coffee and crepe shack. We got a couple of Americanos; things take a while here, but you get used to that.

We had our pastries and coffee on the bench out front.

Conscious Coffee
13521 E Main St
Talkeetna, AK 99676

We then headed on over to Talkeetna Air Taxi where things didn't look very good; at least for the Glacier Landing. We decided to just take whatever the Alaskan weather would give us….they say it changes by the minute here. We were also quickly refunded part of our payment. We loved the staff here, they were friendly, and professional. Because of the cloud cover, we were asked to "wait and see". and we just kinda hung out until past noon. Until finally, we were given clearance.

We got on the plane….we'd most likely be doing just flightseeing….which would be fine, Alaska is so lovely.

Then there was a problem with the steering mechanism on the plane. We were picked up on the tarmac and taken to another plane. As much as we loved our previous pilot; she told us she was a mother of two and chatted with each of us before trying to taxi, she had to stick with her aircraft.

Our new pilot was quite friendly and chatty. One of the other folks on the flight is an amateur pilot and was welcomed to take a seat upfront.

And soon we were in the air.

Once you get in the air, you see Alaska, as beautiful as it is, in an even more spectacular way.

I really don't recall the names off all the places; I was just in awe of the majesty and pure beauty of the Alaskan Range.

I do remember a few things….this is the Kalhitna Glacier.

We actually saw folks hiking down from the Denali on the glacier. It was so amazing and humbling.

As you can see; we were lucky; the weather had cleared up, and we were cleared to land on the Pika Glacier. Here's an awesome post on hiking the glacier. The pilot was so skilled; we touched down so gently……and then, we were on the Pika Glacier.

We were told to not wander too far from the place. There were areas where the snow was soft and we'd easily sink up to our knees. My goodness, here we were……another moment for the books. And then it started snowing!

There such an amazing feeling of awe and yet peacefulness…..things are very quiet except for the wind blowing past you.

And here's the photo I want on my tombstone.

One of the guys at work saw this photo and did this…..it cracked me up…..

You gotta love it……

The Missus; who first rode on one of these smaller aircraft for the first time just a few years ago, had a blast….I guess after the Nazca Lines; this was a piece of cake.

Our take-off was just as smooth as landing. When we got back to the Talkeetna Air Taxi Office, we offered to pay back what we were refunded; but they basically told us, "no worries, we hope you enjoyed yourself".

Enjoyed ourselves? Are you kidding?

I often go back and look at these and many other photos from our trip to Alaska. The size and scale of things is amazing, the stark beauty took my breath away. It's an humbling experience.

It may have been another item off the bucket list for the Missus, but it's something I treasure and will never forget.

Thanks for reading!

Emilia-Romagna – The “Devils Bridge” and a Mona Lisa Mystery in Bobbio and Easter Lunch at Osteria Carducci (Piacenza)

August 14, 2018 mmm-yoso Emilia-Romagna, Italy, Italian Restaurants, Italy, Travel

Let's be perfectly honest here….I love obscure history and places; thus my love for Atlas Obscura. And since there's no sponsors or advertising on our humble little blog, you know I'm not getting anything out of recommending both the book and the website. And sometimes, I can get the Missus interested in searching something out as well….in fact, once that seed is planted, She is much more relentless than I am.

That is why; after having breakfast in the Agritourismo, we headed off to Bobbio. Driving thru Piacenza, which would be our stop for lunch, then alongside the River Trebbia. As we came across a bridge the Missus asked that we make a little detour.

To the charming medieval town of Travo.

Since this was a spur of the moment kind of thing; we really didn't do any research, nor plan any stops. We just took in the relaxed vibe and beauty of the town. We parked along one of the side streets and stretched our legs a bit.

I believe that's the Church of Saint Anthony in the photo above.

It was Easter morning and we could singing coming from the church.

We watched as two elderly men parked their walkers and entered the church; the harmonies briefly escaping from the door as they walked in.

This is so vastly different from the life we live here in San Diego……

It was fun sitting on a stone wall and watching folks go about their day.

We took a walk across the bridge to take in the town….that's the second photo above.

From there it was a short 20 minute drive to the town of Bobbio. It seemed that Bobbio had a restricted traffic zone; at least on this day, Easter. I found parking in the Supermarket parking lot and after asking one really nice lady for directions headed in the direction of Ponte Vecchio ("Old Bridge"), also known as Ponte Gobbo ("Hunchbacked Bridge") and Ponte Diavolo (you know this one, right?).

What's the reason for wanting to see this bridge? Well, perhaps it's the story that the Devil built the bridge over the River Trebbia in hope of receiving a soul of the first person crossing it as payment. The Devil however was tricked as St. Columbanus, who made the deal with the Devil, had a dog (or a bear) be the first to cross the bridge! The irregularity of the bridge is due to either the Devil's workers not being able to build something of consistent heights….oooor the Devil got so angry in being tricked that he kicked the bridge making it lopsided!

Take your pick…..it's a great story whichever you choose to; or not to believe!

As great as that story is, the real reason we came here is because of….well, you may recognize her.

So, what does the Mona Lisa have to do with Ponte Vecchio? Well, according Art Historian Carla Glori, the background in this iconic painting is not some imaginary landscape, but Bobbio! Shades of the Da Vinci code Batman! Here's an interview of Carla Glori. So, of course, we just had to check it out. As did quite a few other folks, of the two and four legged kind.

We both thought the bridge was quite beautiful……

There seems to be interesting things everywhere around the bridge.

We spent a good amount of time before heading back across the bridge and exploring Bobbio.

Unlike sedate Travo, Bobbio was bustling……I later learned that folks usually leave their homes to visit other places during the Easter Holiday.

And I really regretted not doing a bit more shopping here.

I'm thinking as much as we really enjoyed Bobbio, that we'll return and perhaps stay here one day in the future.

It was soon time to head off. I thought we'd have the best chance to find a place to eat in Piacenza so we headed back to the city, which was strangely quiet. I later found out that many folks head out of Parma and Piacenza during the long Easter weekend to be with family or friends. We soon found that Piacenza had its own ZTL zone, but we quickly found parking. And as I was getting ready to pay, one of the folks across the street told us…or at least signaled…letting us know that parking was free during Easter.

We headed down the quiet streets looking for a place I had on my list named Osteria Carducci. Past the Gotico and down Piazza Cavalli….Google Maps was my best friend right now.

All the businesses and even restaurants looked closed; but when we took the left turn at Via Giosuè Carducci, I knew we'd be okay….well, I knew that at least the place was open. The light in the sign was on and there were cars parked alongside the building.

We entered the place, which was bustling, to the surprise of the folks behind the bar. Somehow, in the middle of Eater rush, two Asians walk in!

We were told that they could provide a table for us; but the menu for today was an Easter menu. Which would be no problem; especially since all the vino (for the Missus) was free!

We were led downstairs, which was quite busy. By the time we left every table had been filled…….and no one except us had left yet.

Soon enough, plates started arriving at the table. We were a bit confused as there seemed to be a choice of two items as the primi and secondi……the really nice young lady who spoke really great English explained that this was the menu. We'd be getting everything on it! Yikes! And of course places like these do not do take-away…..these was going to be interesting. The young lady seemed quite amused with us.

Things started off with the Culaccia con Flan de Verdure. Culatello! My flavorite salumi….I ate both my portion and the Missus's. The flan was a moist, though highly caramelized zucchini and ricotta pastry, much lighter than it looked.

We thought we might be able t survive this until two bowls filled with Piacenzi Tortelli con la coda (tortelli with a "tail"), the city's namesake stuffed pasta arrived.

The pasta was both springy and tender; the filling was quite rich and creamy. I could make out ricotta, perhaps a bit of chard or other similar greens, some milky-salty cheese, it was quite satisfying, and filling. The sage butter sure didn't hurt things either.

A minute later, out came two plates of Nidi di Rondini (Swallows nests); roasted rolled pasta, with a nice crunch; rolled around cheese and salumi in a very tasty asparagus cream.

Crunchy-creamy-cheesy goodness.

Next up; the Roasted Veal and Potatoes.

Nicely roasted if a bit on the chewy side…..very nice gravy….but man, a whole plate of potatoes!

The pistachio crusted lamb ribs were quite tasty….the lamb nice and gamey, but also on the tough and dry side.

The mint and yogurt sauce helped a bit.

The Missus and I looked at each other and cracked up……..this was way more than we wanted. Then dessert arrived.

Luckily, this was a light chocolate mousse topped with a tangy fruit compote.

We'd made it…we survived….then the cake arrived.

The Missus discreetly got some paper towels out of Her purse and snuck these away. Yes, we smuggled cake out of Osteria Carducci.

We did enjoy ourselves and the folks here were so warm, friendly, and welcoming. And after this, well, "hearty" would be an understatement….meal, we skipped dinner.

They sure don't mess around with Easter lunch at Osteria Carducci.

Osteria Carducci
Via Giosue' Carducci 6
Piacenza, Italy

We really needed to take a walk after that meal. So we wandered around a bit and ran into the Duomo of Piacenza.

The Cathedral of Piacenza was built between the 12th and 13th centuries in the Romanesque style. It is quite striking.

And the square in front of the Cathedral was fairly busy. This was the most people we saw during our afternoon in Piacenza.

It was fun seeing folks socializing and having a good time.

That's the Column of the Virgin Mary in the photo below.

We took a few minutes to walk around the interior of the Cathedral.

And then decided to head back to the car. I'd taken photos with my phone of the landmarks on the way from where we parked; but we were just down the street from Sant'Antonino Basilica.

And soon enough, we were on our way back to Parma.

It had been a been a fun day…..and Bobbio, I think we'll be back someday!

Thanks for reading!