As in, yoso-silly, yoso-hungry, yoso-full, or best of all; mmm-delici-yoso!!!!! A San Diego based food and travel blog. An Ex-Pat Kama'aina and Friends explore food, restaurants, and travel from San Diego and points beyond.
**** Sadly Lucky Wong passed away at the end of 2024
After a particularly brutal week, I recently revisited a place that holds a special place in my heart. It had been a few years since I'd eaten and even longer since I last posted on Lucky's, that little former Chinese restaurant, cum diner, cum greasy spoon, to me a steady, dependable beacon in the ever changing North Park scene.
Once you enter; you know….this ain't hipster central.
From the rather tacky, now considered "retro" Chinese restaurant décor, to various bits and pieces of the history of Lucky's, which in turn is probably the history of North Park, the place has grown on me.
Just sitting for a breakfast on this morning; the customers were like characters from central casting….a young couple, a hipster in his 'hat with 'tats", two older guys grumbling about how the bus is always late. Like I said in my first post a decade ago, "I'm sure thousands of stories have echoed off the walls" of Lucky's.
And the prices? Yes, this is North Park, where you can get a $17 bowl of pho a few blocks away. And yes, this is 2018.
Four bucks for two eggs with bacon, hashbrowns, and toast. Don't forget to finish your toast….Lucky doesn't like waste. Lucky sees everything. If he sees that you've finished your toast, he'll ask if you want more.
The coffee….well, it's "authentic"……100% Folgers. Still under a buck.
This is a one man show, Lucky has no wasted motion, he moves with deceptive efficiency and my breakfast is on the table within minutes.
The eggs are a perfect easy over, the toast is great for sopping up all the drippy egg yolk……the hash browns are SYSCO heavenly and the bacon crisp. This cost me $4.10 mind you. Also notice the bottle of Tabasco. I recently went to Island Style Café and just like Leilani's Café they didn't have Tabasco. Except that instead of telling me they didn't have Tabasco, when I asked for it, they just silently dropped off a bottle of Sriracha.
I mentioned having Tabasco to Lucky, who told me that even though he could get a gallon of Tapatio for the same price of a couple of bottles of Tabasco, things just wouldn't be right without it. I like that; it just "wouldn't be right".
Eating at Lucky's always remind me of the places Mom took me to, we didn't have much money and didn't eat out much. It was always a treat. To me, eating at Lucky's is a treat.
And then there are always Lucky's "words of wisdom"….not too much on this day; though he did encourage the young lady to butter her toast since butter was "good for your complexion".
And to file under the "Lucky sees more than you realize". After I paid my bill; Lucky always rounds things off, he told me "you haven't been here in a while" and handed me this.
World Peace & Happiness…….in recent months, I've heard, folks at work, and even some friends of mine surprisingly spout some of the most hateful and resentful rhetoric. We could use some peace and happiness….as usual Lucky has hit it on the nose.
As for the fortune cookie?
I hope so……
Lucky’s Golden Phenix 3804 Grim Ave San Diego, CA 92104 Hours: Mon – Sat 730am – Noon
It was probably not the best plan on my part. I had thought Easter Sunday might be a problem and was kind of worried about finding places open. We did luck out with a gigantic meal at Osteria Carducci in an almost sedate Piacenza. Which pointed out two things I didn't know about Easter in Emilia-Romagna; folks in the big city head out to smaller towns; like Ferrara, to celebrate and enjoy life. Two, the Monday after Easter is a holiday and places would be packed. We searched for a decent place for lunch but every place was booked, or just served stuff like pizza and panini. We did manage to snag reservations for dinner.
Ferrara Cathedral dominates Piazza Trento e Trieste considered to be the center of the city. While there was a lot of restoration work going on, we decided to check out this structure which dates back to the 12th Century.
The interior is quite grand in a rather foreboding kind of way; as it is rather dark.
There were services going on; so we decided to just take a quick look around…..
It would be interesting to see the Cathedral after all the restoration work is complete.
As we slipped into the quite street behind the Cathedral we saw this place.
Like 583 years old! So now for the name dropping; Copernicus studied at the University of Ferrara in 1503. While matriculating, he actually had a room right above Al Bridisi.
So, if it was good enough for Copernicus; it must be good enough for us.
Being a bit later in the afternoon; we just decided on some Culatello (of course) and a couple of glasses of wine. A red for the Missus and a white for me.
Along with the Culatello, we were served the famous and typical bread of the city; Coppia, which means "couple" has a unique shape, two strands of rolled dough are connected like a cross, with four "legs".
This was fairly dry and crumbly, though very "yeasty"…..it's not something we'd search out.
The Culatello was decent, not quite melt in your mouth, but still satisfying.
There is a definite porky-cheesy flavor to culatello which I really love.
So, are you ready for our Al Brindisi story? It's about the Missus's red wine….first of all, it was turning a bit skunky to the nose….
It tasted like it was on its way to becoming a nice vinegar. We motioned our really nice Server over and explained to him that the red wine was going south. His response? He flashed us an uneasy smile and said "SOOO-rrreeee". And walked away never to be seen again! You couldn't help but laugh!
Oh well, we cut our losses…this red was really inexpensive.
And we now have a story about the oldest wine bar in the world, right?
Enoteca al Brindisi Via Guglielmo Degli Adelardi 11 44121, Ferrara, Italy
After our snack we headed out and stretched our legs.
Ferrara was indeed an "interesting" town…..looks like this fellow is trying to sell his books?
Just a few blocks from the center of town; things were a lot quieter. This is the Piazzeta Sant 'Anna
This was once the sight of the first hospital in Ferrara, dedicated to Saint Anne.
We headed away from the city center……just taking in some of the wonderful structures along the way.
That's the Chisea del Gesu above, a Jesuit church built in the 16th century.
You kind of get the idea that they measure time in centuries here. In need of a nap before dinner we headed back, past the Castello Estense di Ferrara.
We checked out of our lodge fairly early in the morning. The Missus really wanted to hit the road. We had some reservations to keep at 2pm and the Missus still wanted to enjoy the scenery.
While Denali National Park gets all the headlines; I have to say, for us, the unadventurous type, the views along Denali State Park are wonderful.
A couple of three hours or so later, we made it to Denali National Park. But not before watching this moose cross the road.
After wandering around the shops and displays at the visitors center; the Missus wanted to take a short hike. We chose the McKinley Station trail, which took us along Riley Creek, under train trestles, and down a really nicely groomed path.
It was a nice, easy hike.We got back to the visitors center and headed off to the strip of tourist shops called "Glitter Gulch" (Nenana Canyon), yikes! We soon headed on out to a pick up spot for our next stop for the day. We'd made reservations to visit Jeff King's Husky Homestead. A mini bus came to pick us up and take us to Jeff King's Iditarod Training Center……I'm hoping you folks know what the Iditarod is. Jeff King is a four time winner of what is called "the Last Great Race on Earth". I was looking forward to seeing the dogs, the training, learning about life and preparation for the Iditarod, learning about the Alaskan Husky. All of which was answered. But first….some puppies!
We were told that they have visitors meet the puppies to help socialize and get them used to being around people.
It became apparent quite quickly what great shape these dogs were in….they were athletes. They got so excited when the handlers came around….think of school kids going "pick me…pick me."
We quickly found out that "Alaskan Huskies" are not considered pure bred….they are not recognized by the AKC. These are dogs bred for their abilities to be able to pull, work as a team, run, lead….
They are also quite affectionate and each has its own personality. They also love attention…..
It was quite obvious that in the same way Frankie is made to eat snacks; these dogs are, well, to paraphrase the Bruce Springsteen song, they are "Born to Run". They seem most fulfilled and happy when working.
It was amazing watching them training on the custom treadmill pulling an ATV.
As soon as they were hooked up….they just wanted to go. Check out this video:
What was even more entertaining was watching the treadmill turned off. The team just pulled the ATV into the woods and then back around and up the hill. While all the other dogs just wanted to be part of the spectacle.
The outdoor presentation was wonderful; we learned about the breed, met the lead dogs, several of which were brought out to meet the audience.
We learned how the dogs were named….and yes, there was even a Sammy!
The indoor session was even more fascinating; at least for me….plus; the presenters, who have actually done the Iditarod; since Jeff King was out of town, had a pretty funny schtick.
Seriously though, topics like Vet care, how many dogs they take for each race, staging food……each dog consumes about 12,000….yes, twelve thousand calories a day during the race. Each musher is responsible foe feeding his or her team, with no help! They need to schedule the dogs time pulling, rest time, prepare their food…..I was told that to make the most of what time they might have to sleep; 3-4 hours, they'll often forgo shelter and just sleep in the sled…..rinse, repeat.
In other words; the dogs are noble athletes, it is about them….the mushers, well, they must be nuts…..
The average age an Iditarod sled dog lives to is 12-15 years….which is pretty amazing for a 60 pound dog.
There was so much covered in the time at Husky Homestead……regardless of your belief on the Iditarod, I learned a lot about the Alaskan Husky. The folks at Husky Homestead are great.
After the tour we were dropped off at our pick-up point and we headed to where we were staying for the night; McKinley Creek Cabins. Really nice, friendly folks…..
Originally, I wanted to have dinner at the nearby 229 Parks Restaurant, but they were still closed during our visit. So, instead we ate at the McKinley Creekside Café, which I read good things about.
This low keyed spot had a simple menu of basic fare…..
We ordered a couple of things off the menu. First up was the Reindeer Sausage Vegetable Soup which was on the greasy side.
It was also overly salty.
We also ordered the "Alaska Sampler" ($23); which was basically an appetizer plate.
So here's the deal; if you like basic, say, TGI Fridays fare, you'd like this. The calamari was tough, the halibut was fried too long and dry, the Reindeer sausage was also over-cooked, tough, and dry. The item the Missus thought She was not going to like; the Smoked Salmon Dip was what we enjoyed the most, smoky, almost crab like flavors; which went well with the nicely toasted, we were told, house made bread.
We also got the Bacon – Jalapeno Deviled Eggs.
The egg whites were too rubbery and the egg yolk mixture was very runny….not much bacon, nor jalapeno tones in this and the runny mixture just didn't look very appealing.
On the good side; the staff was wonderful…..
McKinley Creekside Cafe 224 Parks Hwy Denali National Park and Preserve, AK 99755
Still a bit unsatisfied, we walked across the bridge to Panorama Pizza Pub.
Went and ordered a couple of beers and a cheese bread. The young lady working the bar was amazing.
As was just sitting on the porch and chilling……
Though it seemed that our cheese bread was taking quite long….another round of beers….. I then went in and spoke to the young lady nicely, it wasn't her fault. I got talking to one of the guys sitting at the bar, who it turns out is a chef, for one of the nearby more fancy places……he told me, "things are kinda rough right now in these places……the season has just begun and the staff is getting used to things, but there's no excuse for cheese bread taking an hour".
We decided to take our cheese bread to go…….
Panorama Pizza Pub Mile 224 Parks Hwy Healy, AK 99743
We left the cheese bread in the room and went for a walk….it was nearly seven pm, but the sun didn't set until nearly ten and this is what McKinley Creek looked like.
We got back to the room….and there was no cheese on the cheese bread….whatever….we really didn't care. Would you have if this was right outside your door?
I haven't done one of these in a while; so let's ketchup catch up.
Taste of the Himalaya's Coming to Renaissance Towne Center:
I wanted something fast and just thought I'd grab some lunch to go and catch my favorite "character" in Renaissance Towne Center. When I headed back to my car, I noticed that the pizza place is being replaced with another outlet of Taste of the Himalayas
That pizza place lasted maybe 2 years?
It is good seeing a bit variety in the area.
The address is:
8895 Towne Centre Dr #115 San Diego, CA 92122
About Fish Replacing Nozomi on Convoy:
I was revisiting a certain business in this strip mall and was just trying to survive both the crazy people trying to park and the over zealous parking lot attendant. I didn't even notice that Nozomi was gone until I had backed out of my space.
I've passed by several times during what should be service hours and the place looks closed. Though I find it weird that those chairs are still outside.
Another place that didn't last too long. We had actually attempted to visit in April of 2017, and even though the open sign was lit, they told us they weren't open for another hour.
3860 Convoy St San Diego, CA 92111
And just in case you want to buy something for that special someone……I saw this at Marukai.
I already know what a couple of folks are getting for Christmas this year…….
I believe it was summer of last year; when I heard the first official announcement that the XLB mega-chain Din Tai Fung was going to open at UTC. I know folks who have been waiting with bated breath, patiently awaiting the opening…for those that I know it seemed like the place would never open. And then last week; Eater announced when DTF would be opening their doors, October 1. It would be reservations only for the soft opening period; which I thought was a prudent move…..get your systems in place, fine tune the product, and then open up the floodgates.
One of the young ladies in the office; "K" from the Beijing area will often stop and chat with me about Chinese food. Late last week; she mentioned hearing that Din Tai Fung was finally opening and if I was going. I told her "probably not, since things would probably fairly chaotic, the crowds would be insane, and I don't think the product would be up to par." She smiled and said, "maybe not….din Tai Fung has so many outlets, they have opened many shops, I think they may have systems in place for a grand opening." Hmmmm……the seed was planted; though I hadn't really planned on making reservations. Until my dear friend Candice asked me if I'd like to join them for lunch….on the first day of business. As a plus; I'd see my good friends, who I just don't see enough of these days, so I was in.
UTC is fairly close to the office; so it was snap getting there. There wasn't much of a line, a product of the soft-opening reservations only policy. Several parties were turned away for not having reservations, some of whom, especially one rather persistent Chinese gentleman were rather unhappy.
The set-up was fairly typical of DTF; at least the shops we've been to. Front desk, window display of folks making the XLB, and dumplings.
The dining room was lengthy and could hold up to 200 I was told.
We received a menu while our table was being readied; the four of us; Candice, Xiāngjiāo, TFD, and I had all been to DTF, both here in the states and abroad before, so we all had items we wanted to order. In the end it seemed like a lot; but we finished almost everything! TFD's little boy did a great job helping us as well!
So, enough verbiage; lets get to the food shall we?
First to arrive was the Truffle and Kurobuta Pork XLB ($23.75). Yep, twenty four bucks for 5 XLB.
The tops of the wrappers seemed a bit on the dry and hard side, there wasn't very much "soup" in the dumplings. You got the truffle flavor upon first bite, then it dissipated rather quickly. Not sure if I'd have these again.
Next up; the comfort dish, Taiwanese Cabbage with Garlic ($10.25). This was nicely done, enough salt, the cabbage was tender, nice garlic tones.
Though this is something I can easily make at home with Big Kahuna. We did enjoy the dish and needed some veggies, right?
Next up; the Kurobuta Pork XLB ($11.50). Maybe it's the Kurobuta Pork, which DTF is now using in all its dumplings, but the filling was on the drier side and there was a lack of soup.
The wrapper was rather dry and brittle. The filling had a mild pork flavor, but was more chewy than I prefer. As I mentioned above; there was a lack of soup in both orders of this. I'm so used to biting the ends of the wrapper to let out the steam before dipping into black vinegar and eating the dumpling; but that really wasn't necessary as well.
Next up; some nice and crisp, slightly spicy "Cucumber Salad" ($5.25) and rather bland, under seasoned Soy Noodle (Bean curd noodle) Salad ($5.25).
Shrimp and Kurobuta Pork Shao Mai ($8.75).
The tops of these were on the hard side; the shrimp had very nice flavor, but were overcooked. This just didn't do it for any of us.
The guotie – potstickers were another non-starter. They looked really nice, the bottoms of the wrappers were nice and crunchy; but the fillings fell out of the tops.
Kimchi and Kurobuta Pork Mandu Dumplings ($10.75)…..were really like mild kimchi mandu. These were not spicy in the least; even though we were told they were.
The wrappers were fine; if a bit stiff; the filling was too mild, not enough fermented-sour-savory-spicy kimchi flavor, which would have been fine if there was a decent porkiness to these; but there was none.
I was looking forward to the Crab and Pork XLB ($14.50).
Though there wasn't much soup in these, there was a nice sweet-crab and pork flavor. The filling was a bit on the dry side however as were the wrappers; which were again on the dry and brittle side.
I had been craving Chao Nian Gao($11) and couldn't help but order it; the version with pork.
This was perhaps the most unsatisfying dish of the meal. The nian gao, rice cakes, had been over-cooked, as you can easily see, and were very mushy. The pork was tough; too much soy sauce….just not good eats. We each had a taste and left the rest on the table.
TFD recalled a nice version of Sichuan Liang Mian at the Taipei location of DTF; so we ordered it ($9).
Hardly any spice; the noodles were too soft, the sauce lacked any depth of flavor (i.e. suan-tian-ku-la-xian)…I mean I was looking for something; Sichuan Peppercorn, black vinegar, sesame paste, garlic…..something……
Our savory dishes ended on a high note though, as our second round of the crab and pork XLB arrived. This was much better; though the wrappers were still a bit too stiff, they were moist and had a touch of pull. The crab and pork was juicy if still without enough soup. This was quite nice….perhaps this is what we have to look forward to?
Though I'm still looking for this in the XLB – from a DTF in Asia. I'm wondering if the flour is making some difference?
We ordered the XLB with Red Bean for dessert. Think of it as a sorta, kinda, red bean manju…..
A bit too sweet for my tastes.
Overall, we really enjoyed the service, it was with a few hiccups….which was to be expected, very nice….really nice folks working here. The consensus was also pretty much unanimous; we'd had better at other DTF locations, though that was also to be expected.
Regardless; we still thought that this is the best XLB in San Diego without a doubt.
It's going to be interesting to see how things evolve here. I'm hoping the service and really nice staff remains the same and am expecting the XLB to get better over time; a bit more moist and tender wrappers with a decent "pull". Of course, I'm picky like that. And, I'm going to have to wait a while before bringing the Missus or my Shanghainese coworker "YZ" here.
And, it's always great to see my good friends "hanai family"…..
So, let me know how you're enjoying DTF now that they've arrived in San Diego!
Din Tai Fung 4301 La Jolla Village Dr (UTC) San Diego, CA 92122
We got back into Paris at around 330pm. The Paris metro system is fairly easy to navigate and we got to what I consider to be one of my favorite hotels; the Hotel Monge in the Latin Quarter by 4pm. Check-in, as always with the folks here is a breeze. Hotel rooms are fairly small in Paris and I've learned to get the Deluxe Double Room. Which at first worried me because it over-looked the street, but the windows do a good job of muffling out the noise.
We aim for one blow-out meal when visiting Paris; the first time around it was David Toutain, the last time at Sola. Because the Missus loved Sola, I tried to make reservations for a revisit; but they were closed during this time. There was something about French cuisine with Japanese touches and sensibilities that really got to us. And I think many other folks as well as there seems to be a revolution going on where Japanese Chefs are running Michelin Star level restaurants in France. After doing a bit of research; I settled on Restaurant Alliance which is located a short walk from where we were staying.
We took in the holiday season sights at Notre-Dame de Paris, before crossing back to the very discreet location of Restaurant Alliance on Rue de Poissy.
There are only 9 tables in this discreet restaurant; only one of which was filled when we arrived.
The simple décor belies the nice spacing; comfortable seating, the sound dimming qualities of the place. As for the staff; they were amazing, not obtrusive, very genial, professional, and most of all they really knew their stuff. They Missus and I got the tasting menu, with one tasting, and the Sommolier, Shawn Joyuex, one of the partners, really made the Missus happy with our pairings.
We loved the pacing on the dishes; each looking pristine, not overly done, and to the point.
Starting with the Anchovy and Tomato. This amuse was wonderful; the savory-salty anchovy perfectly balanced with the sweet-tangy-acidic tomato paste.
The Brioche with Fennel Cream doesn't sound like something I'd enjoy; but the light, mildly sweet, buttery brioche found a wonderful dancing partner, one with a rich little anise kick to keep things moving along.
One of my favorite items of the meal was the Beignet Seafood. This was basically a Karaage, a pristine, perfectly fried, perfectly seasoned, karaage, the lieks of which I'd never had before.
A lovely crunch, nice seasoning, savory-sweet, with a very mild smokey spice, and I believe there was a light touch of shio koji or something similar going on. This was just amazing.
Caviar with Champagne was fine. A bit austere, but perhaps with something like this, simpler is easier.
Uni with Kampari Foam and Sea Asparagus was another amazing dish with flavors I would have never though would have gone together well.
I'm not the biggest fan of foams; but this light, tangy-acidic-fruity foam did so well with the rich, oceany uni. Really creative combination.
The Beets with Dulse was a good dish to bring us back to earth after the uni.
The almost salty "bacon of the sea" flavor of dulse was nice in really balancing out the earthy sweetness of the beets.
When we were seated; one of the Servers came around with a glass container….as soon as he opened it the entire room was filled with the fragrance of white truffle. So, being on vacation, how could we not order it? The container would make it to every table and we'd be assaulted with the intoxicating aroma of truffle. There was a table of four across the room, one of the young men seemed to be a regular. Everyone knew him and chatted with him. When the glass container started making its way to his table; he raised both hands in surrender and said "c'est bonne…c'est bonne"!
Not the biggest fan of the pasta per se; but you could have given me shoe leather and I'd have gladly consumed it with the truffle and that perfect funghi based sauce.
The Scallops, kaffir lime, and coconut milk was a symphony of familiar flavors that worked well together.
The scallops were as to be expected in a place like Alliance. Perfectly seared, perfectly rare, perfectly sweet and mildly briny.
The wonderful buttery texture and mild sweetness of the lobster was the star of the Lobster, kumquat, and spinach, in red wine sauce.
The dish could have used a bit more tannic-bitter flavors as it approached being perhaps a bit too sweet.
The desserts? Well, that's the Missus's department. I will say that I really enjoyed the Vanilla Mousses that was served with black olives, where the saltiness of the olives just balanced out the sweetness off the vanilla. The Missus loved the chocolates with jellies in the center.
This was a wonderful meal; perhaps the best we've had in Paris thus far. The Missus is still talking about this meal; not just in terms of single dishes; but mentioning the pace, the staff, and of course, the wine!
So, what to eat near Sports Arena at 10am on a Sunday morning? I had to do a bit of shopping and it was a bit too early for lunch at most places. Then I remembered the Pho Shop. I thought it would be good to check them out again since it had been a while. But man, I hadn't realized it had been over five years already! How time flies.
I arrived just as the "open" sign went on. There were fans running in the place. I was obviously the first customer of the day and the only customer during my entire visit.
I just went with the Pho Dac Biet. The herbs and sprouts soon arrived….. as expected the amount of basil was miniscule and just starting to brown.
My bowl of pho quickly arrived thereafter.
The broth was a lot lighter than on my previous visit. It was also, like most of the pho in San Diego these days on the "sweeter" side, though it still had some nice onion tones. Not much beefiness and also highly defatted.
The tai; rare steak was very lean and once past rare quite tough; like on my previous visit, the flank and brisket were nicely done and beefy, the brisket being very tender. There was nary a piece of tendon in my bowl; though there was a lot of tripe; which was crunchy, and had no off flavors.
The noodles were cooked decently this time around.
While obviously not among my favorite pho shops in San Diego and navigating the course of "pho not to offend" this was not terrible. I can't think of any better pho in the area; though I haven't made the rounds in a while.
The Pho Shop 3760 Sports Arena Blvd San Diego, CA 92110 Hours: Mon – Sat 10am – 10pm Sunday 10am – 9pm
We awoke fairly early on our last day in Strasbourg. Our short trip here just went by in a flash.
Since our train wouldn't be leaving until around 130; we asked the folks who managed the apartment if we could pack and leave our luggage there until it was time to head off to the train station at around noon. As with most folks who run these properties, it was no problem.
Even though we had managed to walk around much of the Grande Île and even did a boat tour, there's a lot that we missed. Like the Église protestante Saint-Pierre-le-Jeune, which was basically two blocks from where we were staying.
These places would just have to wait until next time……
On this brisk morning; there was a produce market going on….so we stopped by to check things out.
So, in addition to all the ornament and other stands; many of which were already open at 9am…..
There were folks pulling along wheeled shopping baskets……
We did one more "tour" of Grande Île, walking through Petit France, and taking time to take photos in front of the Christmas Tree at Place Kléber. Which apparently was the thing to do….
This is a statue of Jean-Baptiste Kléber ,the square's namesake; a Military General and Architect who was born in Strasbourg.
A lot of the fun was just wandering around and watching the folks out and about on this morning.
Soon enough; it was time to grab a bite to eat before grabbing our bags and heading back to Paris. You know what the Missus wanted, right?
So we got back to Place Broglie…..
And while the Missus went off in search of more Choucroute Garnie; I found this rather enticing sausage stand.
The guy working here was a hoot. After a good bonjour…..basically using up all the French I knew. I pointed to the great looking sausages with caramelized onions in the tray. He smile and asked me where I was from. I told him "America"; he then said, "good, you want zee hot dog?" He cracked me up! I ordered one; and he actually went ahead and made one up for me fresh. really nice. Before he handed the foot long sausage in a baguette to me he asked: "you want zee ket-chup?" I laughed and said "non merci monsieur – my friends from Chicago would kill me if I put ketchup on my hotdog!" He laughed and said; "so monsieur….you are purist?" And we both cracked up…..the sausage guy….and yours truly; the hot dog "purist"!
By the way; this was delicious; the forcemeat style sausage had an amazing snap, was perfectly seasoned. The mustard added a mild pungency and those onions were really sweet.
But the most amazing thing about this was the baguette; light, crusty, yeasty….oh man; even the Missus, who ate half of this by the way, in addition to what She got, enjoyed "zee hot dog!"
Of course She got more sausages and sauerkraut. Man, I can't believe how much of this stuff She can put away. Oh well, at least She was having a blast.
We finished up our early lunch, picked up our bags from the apartment, and headed off to Strasbourg Station.
We had really enjoyed our stay in joyous, colorful Strasbourg. I'm hoping to return one day.
After napping off our afternoon wanderings and vin chaud, we awoke and relaxed a bit. The Missus watched Netflix, I worked on a post. By the time we headed out it was dark. We decided to head back to Place Kléber considered to be the central square of Strasbourg. As the sun set, the city seemed to awaken, everyone put on their warm clothes, the lights came on, and Strasbourg came alive.
The Missus was enchanted with all of the wonderful window displays.
Just like the previous evening we stopped at Place Kléber to enjoy the Christmas Tree.
So strikingly beautiful. It just put you in the holiday mood……
And this really good street musician helped to set the tone.
It just made for a wonderful moment in time.
Wandering around the side streets we found a little courtyard and this wine bar.
Named Terres a Vin. We decided to step in and have some wine and a snack.
We both started with wines typical of the region; a Riesling for the Missus a Gewürztraminer for me. While sipping on our wine, we decided to stick around for a while. We ordered some fromage and had another glass.
It was another nice little stop on a day of many wonderful vignettes.
Terres a Vin 1 rue du Miroir Strasbourg, France
As we headed back to the apartment; we decided to get something to eat. Guess what the Missus wanted?
Yep, more choucroute, this time with just some "knacks". That baguette was actually quite good. The Missus just couldn't get enough sauerkraut.
The Missus was in heaven.
There's a time for having things planned out when on vacation. But then again, sometimes it's great to not make plans at all. Not having to be anywhere made for a wonderful day, in a lovely city.
We were given a bottle of wine when we checked in. This evening made for the perfect moment to pop that cork…..
Move one of the chairs up to the window; throw back the curtains, and enjoy…….
We slept well after having a pretty busy day; hard to believe the difference between Paris and the Christmas Market in Strasbourg. The only real plans we made for our stay in Strasbourg was for the apartment and the dinner we had the previous night. We just wanted to relax and enjoy ourselves.
We stepped out into a brisk, but beautiful morning. The sun reflected its orange colors off the buildings.
We decided to head on over to the Cathedral to get a better look at it. There was also one item in the Cathedral that I really wanted to see.
So we headed out; down the pedestrian only alleyways of the Grande Île.
We strolled down Rue du Dome, which ended right at Strasbourg Cathedral; the sun reflecting orange rays off the bell tower.
It was quite a stunning sight.
Like I mentioned in my previous post; Strasbourg Cathedral was once the tallest building in the world.
There are also some interesting stories about the Cathedral; one of the most interesting, you'll find a version here; is of the Devil , riding on the wind, was drawn to a sculpture in the Cathedral, showing him in the form of "a tempter". Curious, he left the wind outside and entered the Cathedral and was imprisoned in one of the pillars. To this day; the wind still awaits his return outside the Cathedral. Which is why it is always so blustery in Cathedral Square.
The Apse is quite stunning.
As are other parts of the Cathedral.
But, as I mentioned, there was one main thing I had come to see. Since our visit to Prague a few years back; I'd become rather fascinated Astronomical Clocks like the one in the Old Town Square of that city. I'd only seen one other Astronomical Clock; this one in Olomouc, so I was interested in seeing another. This one is actually the third clock. The first had been built in the 14th Century, the second in the 16th Century. This one dates back to 1843. It is also one of the largest.
Satisfied we headed back out. There's a Christmas Market in Cathedral Square. The theme of this market is a different country every year….this year it was…..well we had a chuckle.
I still wanted to get a decent photo of the Cathedral, so I walked down the alley of Rue Merciere. Since it was early, there wasn't much traffic, of the wheeled or two-legged kind.
So I snapped a photo. Not sure if it it's especially great; but it would be the best I would get on this trip.
Walk across the street and you are on Place Gutenberg; yes, named after that Gutenberg. Johannes Gutenberg lived in Strasbourg for around faive years or so. It is said that during this time he presented his printing press to the world in a publication called Kunst und Aventur (art and enterprise). Naturally, a statue of Gutenberg stands in the square.
From here; we decided to hit up the TI and they recommended we take a boat tour around the Grande Île. Because of the green tinted windows; my photos didn't turn out well; but here's a short video clip.
And, I got a nice shot of the row of buildings where our apartment was. You can see it was quite a nice location.
The boat ride ended in the area known as Petit France. This picturesque and historic area is where the River Ill splits into four canals.
And is known for the covered bridges in the area; you can still see the fortifications for those bridges that date back to the 13th century.
It is quite touristy, but also very charming.
Because of the river and canals; this was where the tanners and other folks lived. In an interesting twist; the name "Petit France" is not named for its architecture, but because of a 16th century hospital that treated "zum Franzosel" (the French disease), aka syphilis while still a free city in the Holy Roman Empire. Apparently, the citizens of Strasbourg believed the disease was the fault of the French. Basically, the idea was to isolate those with the disease in a structure in this district.
On a totally unrelated (to venereal disease) note. Since we were in the area; we decided to finally try some Vin Chaud; mulled wine.
Basically warm, mulled wine…….
You know, we never developed a taste for this…..gaaack…it was really sour, warm, and in most cases spiced. One of our friends wade a video of all of our faces after drinking this stuff. On a positive note; it really did warm you up….but you had to swallow of course. As you can read yourself on this post: "Vin Chaud was originally made as a means of saving wine that had gone bad—by adding sugar and spices it often made the wine drinkable again" You did get some nice souvenir cups though.
By now, we decided to head back to the apartment. But after that vin chaud we were in need of some sustenance. We stopped by the Christkindelsmärik on Place Broglie just two blocks from the apartment. This stand looked quite popular.
Seems this fellow resented not getting his share of choucroute garnie.
The Missus got the Choucroute d'Alsace; She just can't ever get enough fermented cabbage it seems. The knack was nice and snappy and the smoked sausage quite nice.
The potatoes were tender…what's not to like….since She just loved the charcroute, who am I to deny Her access to this….we'd basically have it for every meal.
I decided to try the Munster en Baguette.
Very ripe smelling Munster cheese, but very mild and milky, almost sweet in flavor; on a nice crusty baguette….the ripe tomatoes added just enough acidity to cut through the richness and salty tones. This was quite enjoyable.
Then we made a mistake of trying more vin chaud! This was better, not as puckery….but we're not sold on this……
As this fellow seemed to say to me "fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice……."
Four bucks for two eggs with bacon, hashbrowns, and toast. Don't forget to finish your toast….Lucky doesn't like waste. Lucky sees everything. If he sees that you've finished your toast, he'll ask if you want more.
The eggs are a perfect easy over, the toast is great for sopping up all the drippy egg yolk……the hash browns are SYSCO heavenly and the bacon crisp. This cost me $4.10 mind you. Also notice the bottle of Tabasco. I recently went to Island Style Café and just like Leilani's Café they didn't have Tabasco. Except that instead of telling me they didn't have Tabasco, when I asked for it, they just silently dropped off a bottle of Sriracha.
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