We took a short nap after visiting Hida Folk Village and having lunch at Maruaki. When we woke, it was close to dusk. We decided to take a walk around Takayama before settling in for dinner. As with many tourist day trip destinations; Hida-Takayama slows down at night. Things were so peaceful and relaxed. We got a kick out of watching these kids having fun around the Miyagawa River. Remember, it had snowed just two days previous, so that water must have been pretty cold.
Of course, the kids here must be used to the cold….I guess.
We loved walking the various "preservation" area streets of Hida-Takayama.
And with no one around; you felt transported back in time.
We saw a couple of sake breweries; you could tell by the "Sugidama" (cedar ball) hung in front of the business.
During this walk; we concentrated on the Northeastern side of the Old Town.
Just as we started walking up the street to Sakurayama Hachimangū Shrine it started….the "Golden Hour".
We got lucky again.
To the right (north) of the shrine is Takayama Yatai Kaikan where the floats for the Takayama Festival are stored, some of which are hundreds of years old. Of course, this was dusk and the place was closed. I'm certain we'll be back one day, so I'm keeping that on the "list".
Sakurayama Hachimangū Shrine dates back to the Fifth Century; you can find the story about the founding of the Shrine here. It's a short, but fun read…..and involves a monster, Ryoumen Sukuna, that has 2 heads, 4 arms and 4 legs! and you wonder where all those Japanese monster movies came from, right?
We made a brief stop to walk around a bit……I loved this poor little snowman, who was just trying to hang in there……
We really enjoyed the walk, but it was getting close to our dinner reservation time, so we headed down the street.
I knew if we found the stream that fed into the Miyagawa River, we'd fine our dinner destination.
And sure enough, a few blocks down we found Kyoya.
While trying to find a dinner spot during our one night in Takayama, Kyoya came up several times as a place to try local specialties.
The interior is rustic and warm.
The folks here are really tourist friendly, several of the folks spoke some English.
There are several "set" options on the menu and you know, the Missus was all about the "Hoba Miso Yaki". So we ordered the Hida Beef Luxury Set and the Hoba Miso Set.
The Luxury set (3000 ¥ – about $27/US) had the Hoba Miso with Beef, which was very nice….loved the flavor of the miso, earthy-beany, not salty, very savory.
But we still thought the nuanced flavor of the beef was lost in this.
There was also a serving of beef and yakiniku items.
While we felt, in terms of tenderness, the beef at Maruaki was better; these cuts had a more pronounced beefiness to them.
The miso soup was just delici-yoso….something I rarely say about miso soup; but man, the local miso is so good. Nice savory-beany tones, not salty, really great flavor.
And then there was the tofu…..man, this was the best bean curd I've had in a while. The look and texture seemed like that of frozen tofu….I asked but no one could understand what I was saying.
The flavor was so condensed…….
The Hoba Set (1300 ¥ – about $12/US) is basically vegetarian and we actually enjoyed it more than the beef….go figure.
Wonderful, creamy, savory goodness.
And this came with a larger portion of veggies and beancurd.
The cucumber had a nice fermented flavor; I'm thinking perhaps kasuzuke? There were two different types of tofu provided; the one that looked spongy really seemed like frozen tofu; I'd never had kouya tofu before and we both just loved it. The Missus loves Her frozen tofu….well, just tofu period and these two version had really condensed bean curd flavor.
Both sets came with pickles, rice, and that miso soup.
Funny, we came for the hoba yaki, but ended up loving the tofu…go figure. Maybe it was the three tokkuri of sake? But I think not.
In the end, perhaps Kyoya is a bit touristy……but it's done in the typical Japanese way, for Japanese and non-Japanese to enjoy. Nothing tasted dumbed down, the flavors were good, and the folks were pretty friendly. The prices may be a bit more, but we really enjoyed the place.
Hida Takayama Kyoya
1-77 Oshinmachi
Takayama 506-0851, Gifu Prefecture
There's a kind of quiet peacefulness to Hida-Takayama at night…….
That just set the right mood for us…..
Thanks for reading!
Other than some new(er) tables and chairs, the exterior and interior haven't changed much. The owners have. The menu (at the bottom of this post) is similar, with the 'off menu' items now listed. 
Ordering hot tea ($1) gets a nice size mug delivered.
The Mister is back into his spicy cravings mode and ordered the papaya salad ($6) at a heat level of '3'(out of 5). Good thing he did; this was a just right amount of heat for him, while I was still able to taste the freshly shredded green papaya. The tomatoes added a bit of calming flavor as did the savory salty fish sauce in the base. 
I was here for the Nem Khao ($8) and it did not disappoint. The crispy rice with fried garlic and sour sausage dish was just about as I remembered, although the sausage was a bit more chopped up/in finer pieces than I remembered. The flavors (I could taste the lemongrass in the sour sausage) were all there. 
As our third dish, (we try to order one for each of us plus 'one for the table'), The Mister wanted to try the Phad See Ew with chicken ($6.50). Crisped pan fried wide noodles with egg, broccoli, carrots and mushrooms made this dish a flavorful combination of comfort. 
