Colmar – Dinner at Brassierie Heydel, a Morning Walk Around Colmar, and Some Self-Catering

We'd had a wonderful day visiting the colorful villages of Alsace. Christopher was an amazing guide and even called and made reservations for dinner when I mentioned a specific Alsatian dish called Fleischschnacka.

When we headed out for dinner; it was already fairly dark in Colmar. Looking out from our terrace; Pont de Rue de Turenne was nice and quiet.

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The restaurant was centrally located, though not quite in the tourist center.

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The folks working were quite friendly and the place was pretty quiet when we arrived. There just seemed to be few regular customers in the place.

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Though it filled up pretty quickly as we were ending our meal.

The Missus just had to have Her favorite; the Choucroute and figured my dish was going to be pretty hefty. We also got the Foie Gras entre to start.

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This was smooth, rather mild in offal tones, rich, and quite good.

The Missus enjoyed Her Choucroute.

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Though She said it was not a crisp and refreshing as the version at Le Petit Venise.

And then there was my "snails of meat" – Fleischschnacka. Man, this was a pretty hefty dish.

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Think of ground meat rolled in pasta; the two slices were a bit too much for me and fairly mild in flavor. I loved the potatoes and the green salad.

I'm not going into too much detail about Heydel; because, at least according to their Facebook page as of June 17th, the business is in the process of changing ownership.

Brasserie Heydel
45 rue des Clefs
68000, Colmar, France

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As you can see; Colmar is quite stunning at night as well.

It was wonderful waking in the morning and taking your espresso on the terrace.

The next morning we decided to explore Colmar's Old Town. The Pont de Rue de Turenne was quiet at this time of the day. You can see our apartment's terrace at the upper left of this photo.

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Things were being set-up for the Christmas Market which was going to start that weekend.

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We used Rick Steves walk as a guide. We started at the Koïfhus; the Customs House. Trade made Colmar a wealthy city in the Middle Ages and the Customs House was the center of it all. Colmar had been granted Free Imperial City status by the Holy Roman Empire.

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Above the door on the south side of the building is this door. The plaque above the door designates Colmar as being an Imperial City.

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Above one of the portals you'll see this plaque.

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Jean Rapp, one of Napoleon's chief consuls was born in Colmar; supposedly here in the Customs House where his dad was a janitor.

In the square in front of the Customs House is this fountain.

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The fountain statue is of Lazarus von Schwendi. Who supposedly (it is considered a myth) brought the Tokaji (remember our dinner in Budapest) to Alsace. The statue was made by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi who also created something known as the Statue of Liberty.

From here we walked down Rue des Tanneurs. There's a channel right across the street. As we had learned in Modena, you need a close running water source for tanning leather. This is where the tanner in Colmar used to reside.

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From here we circled back a bit along the Marché Couvert.

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And then up to Rue des Marchands ("Merchants Street").

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IMG_2560 IMG_2564Right up the street is one of the distinctive buildings in Colmar; Maison Pfister. Built in 1537 in Renaissance style, with biblical stories and figures painted into the walls. It's a beautiful and impressive building.

Right across the way is the carving that folks call the "Meter Man". It's the sign for a drape maker and he is holding the standard measure of length, Colmar's version of the meter. 

It's all quite entertaining……..

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As you can tell when looking at the photo of Maison Pfister….right past the structure is St Martin's Church, where we spent a few minutes lingering.

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I'm always fascinated by clocks in these churches……

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We wandered down Rue des Boulangers…..

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And since this was the "street of bakers" spent a bit of time shopping for gifts.

IMG_2576 IMG_2582From here we took a right on Rue des Tetes (street of heads) and came upon the façade of the Maison des Tetes ("House of Heads"). Now a luxury hotel; this structure was built in 1609 by a wine maker. Many heads, masks, and faces adorn the façade.

The most interesting one is found to the left of the entrance to the courtyard.

There you'll see what looks like a court jester; his belly sticking out, with hoofs in the place of feet. Go figure…..

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It's quite a sight…..

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Though I haven't spent time on it; I need to mention all the wonderful signs that adorn the buildings…….

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From here we turned back and headed down the colorful streets of Colmar.

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And back to the Marché Couvert. We were staying in such a lovely apartment that we decided to take advantage of it and do some self-catering.

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And combined with the cheese we Riquewihr and the cookies that Christopher had given to us as a gift; we had a very nice meal.

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IMG_4489 IMG_4490There's much to love about Colmar and Alsace in general. Beautiful half-timbered buildings, history and charm; with some humor thrown in.

I thank you for stopping by and sharing this with us!

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