Scotland (2022) – Oban Distillery and Coast Restaurant (Oban)

After starting in Edinburgh and making our way past Loch Lomond and Luss, we arrived at our destination for the evening, Oban. While I had read that Oban was quite touristy, we really enjoyed the laid back atmosphere of the town.

Of course, since we were on a private whiskey tour, the first stop was Oban Distillery.

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Just to let you know how relaxed Oban was; check out the pooch sleeping belly up in the window across the busy parking lot of the distillery.

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Sean guided us in and got us on our tour.

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Our guide was a hoot…..with a great sense of humor. He went over the five major Scottish Regions that make Scotch Whiskey and then the Flavour Map.

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And then we were off into how Oban makes their whiskey. I won't go into that detail, but you can find a good outline here. Scotch Whiskey uses copper stills. We were told that the copper binds with the sulphurs released during the fermentation process. Thus the liquid produced has a cleaner taste. We were also told during our tours that each distillery has its own design for pot stills.

As for Oban….you gotta love our guide, who photobombed me when I wanted to take a photo of the stills.

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At the end we had a sampling. The Missus prefers a more peaty-smoky Scotch; the versions here had a nice bit of almost citrusy-fruitiness to it.

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This was a fun first stop for us!

Oban Distillery
Stafford St
Oban PA34 5NH, Scotland, United Kingdom

After freshening up at our hotel we set out to explore a bit and then find some dinner.

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Oban was a charming town and we enjoyed the views.

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We saw an interesting church from the harbor and decided to walk on over to the Northern side of town past the main road to check out Saint Columba's Cathedral.

St Columbas Cathedral - Oban

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If you're interested, here's some good info on the Cathedral.

We then headed back into the city. We went thru a more residential neighborhood before getting to Dunollie Road.

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Which turned into George Street where I had a place on my list named Coast Restaurant, which seemed to have the type of menu we enjoyed so we headed on over. It was exactly at opening time; 530pm so we easily got a table.

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The service was warm and welcoming; typical of all the service we had in Scotland.

The Missus started with some wine. I got a Isle of Jura 10 Year Single Malt.

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The menu itself was divided into two parts; the Light Bite menu, where you could even have some of the starters as mains, and the A La Carte menu. We chose items from both to make out dinner.

The Missus wanted to try the mussels, so we ordered that off the Light Bites menu as a main (£15).

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I believe mentioning how amazing the seafood was in Scotland and this was no exception. Sweet, tender, not a gritty bite found anywhere. This was so good.

We also got the Crab Pot (£9.5).

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Wonderfully sweet and briny crab claw meat, with a refreshing, if a bit too sweet creme fresh, we enjoyed the baby chard and arugula which helped develop a textural contrast and add earthiness to the dish.

And also the starter of "Hand Dived Scallops" – £10.95. 

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So sweet, tender, perfectly rare in the center. The smoked bacon added another layer of flavor and smokiness. The tempura samphire tasted like asparagus. This was quite good…and look Black Radish, more than one scallop for almost half the price!

This was a nice dinner. We'd gladly eat here again.

Coast Restaurant
104 George St.
Oban PA34 5NT, Scotland, United Kingdom

After dinner we went for our usual stroll. 

IMG_2566 IMG_5754  There's something about the pace of life here that really made one relax.

Though many places seemed to close early. Folks would pass us on the street and greet us.

We returned to our room and settled in. Tomorrow would be quite a day as we'd be taking the ferry to Islay and visit not one, but three distilleries.

Thanks for stopping by!

Crudo Cevicheria & Oyster Bar

I had some business to attend to downtown during mid-August. Being that I absolutely dread parking downtown, I'm happy to have the trolley stops off Morena these days. Once business was attended to, the most important question of the day arose….."what's for lunch?" Just the week before I had read about Crudo opening in Little Italy in Eater. It was pretty "atsui desu ne", but I was happy to note that the Little Italy Trolley stop was just two blocks from the restaurant. Sold!

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I got there right at opening time and the friendly hostess guided me to a table.

I appreciated the outdoor dining area, but it was just too hot on this day.

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I like the sleek interior all dressed up in oceany aqua.

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Looking over the menu I made my decision. Being that this was Little Italy, I expected small portions, so I ordered two items. Starting with the Fish Ceviche ($16). I was pleasantly surprised at the portion size and the three tostadas to start. The nice young lady came back twice asking me if I wanted more blue corn tostadas!

Crudo 04  Crudo 05  The fish was perfectly marinated, with just the right amount of toothsomeness. The marinade was nicely balanced; with a good balance of sour to salt. Enjoyed the ripe avocado which added a slightly creamy texture and a mild buttery-nuttiness to the dish.

The chili de arbol salsa was indeed spicy, with smoky tones.

This was a wonderfully refreshing and restorative dish on a hot day.

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I also ordered the Pulpo Carpaccio ($19).

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Man, that octopus was perfectly cooked, so tender! Loved the amount of salt and mild acidity as well. I wasn't sure how Parmesan Cheese was going to work with this; but because it was shaved ultra-fine it added a wonderful milky-savory-saltiness to the dish which I found quite pleasant.

In typical Mariscos fashion a variety of hot sauces were presented, but I didn't need anything masking the wonderful flavors of the food!

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I saw at least five people stop by during my meal asking if Crudo was open, what were the hours, etc…..

This was a very nice meal! And since my Buddy Candice had reported on it; during the heatwave this past month we decided to grab some lunch. And of course, Crudo seemed like just the remedy for the heat and humidity. Again I took the trolley and Candice met me a opening time. We sat on the same table as I did on my previous visit.

There was one item that caught my interest; the Tiradito Mixto ($25). You know me and tiradito, right?

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No complaints about the prep and quality of the seafood. I didn't care for the marinade which was unusually sweet and detracted from the dish. The menu stated that this version of tiradito used XO Sauce, which is what fascinated me. Perhaps that's what threw this whole dish off?

The wonderful Aguachile en Salsa Verde ($19) made everything right again.

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Man, the wonderful texture of the shrimp! A perfectly balanced salsa verde; decent spice, great acidity, nice pungent tones! This is probably my favorite item form our meals.

We also got the Coctel de Mariscos ($18). Loved the addition of the saltine crackers…which, no pun intended, "cracked me up".

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All the seafood was wonderful; though this was a bit too "Tame" for my taste. I like a bit more clamato and good tanginess in my cocteles. Still, this was decent.

I really enjoyed chatting with Candice, it was great catching up on things. It seems that Covid has really put a damper on all my meals with friends. I'm hoping to remedy that soon.

And Crudo was a fine place to enjoy with friends on a hot, humid September day.

I guess I'm going to have to bring the Missus here soon….though She's not a fan of catching the trolley! We'll see how that goes.

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Crudo Cevicheria & Oyster Bar
1608 India St.
San Diego, CA 92101
Hours:
Sun – Thurs 11am – 10pm
Fri – Sat 11am – Midnight

Gyokai Natto Don From Izakaya Sakura

Man, the last extended heat wave really had me on the ropes. Our old 1950's built house doesn't have A/C; though we did buy a portable unit for Frankie, which recently crapped out. The hot weather had me craving some of my hot weather favorites; specifically the Gyokai Natto Don from Izakaya Sakura. It had been a while since I had visited Izakaya Sakura, over a year-and-a-half when I did takeout….well, because of that thing called Covid. It had been nearly three years since I had dined in at Sakura. I decided to go right when they opened for lunch, early in the week, and peeked in…..

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There was one person at the sushi bar, who it turns out was waiting for a huge takeout order, and one party of three dining al fresco, so I decided to have at it.

Kazu working at the sushi bar reminded me of old times….though the masks quickly reminded me of something else….

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The dining room configuration was something new to me…..

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The Server was very efficient and to the point and I ordered the Gyokai Natto Don, which is now $22. 

Rev Sakura 04 Rev Sakura 05   Except for the packets of Kikkoman Shoyu, definitely a Covid thing, this pretty much looked the same as what I recalled. I enjoyed the miso soup, nice beany-nutty flavor….I really liked it. Perhaps I've been having too many watered down versions recently. The Japanese potato salad and the pickles were decent. But the agedashi tofu's battery was strangely rubbery.

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As for the bowl…well, I don't recall having so much rice during previous visits; I'm going to have to order "half rice" next time! The maguro wasn't of the best quality, but decent; there was some aji which surprised me and I enjoyed, as I did the shiromi (white fish) and hamachi. Not as much fish as I used to get though. Also not a fan of the seaweed salad they put in a filler.

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Still, all that sticky, beany, fermented natto, wasabi, shoyu. This did the trick.

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I'm glad Sakura has made it through the pandemic so far. It's because of places like this that I started this blog. It's a place that I've been going to from the beginning of the blog…from back in the days of Chowhound. It was a favorite of the late Ed from Yuma and we shared many meals there. We used love the fact that the place had no signage and way back in those days had a sign saying "WE DO NOT SERVE CALIFORNIA ROLLS" plainly visible. In fact, I recall having dinner with Ed at Sakura (around 2002-03) when a very pushy customer demanded that Kazu make him some rolls. Kazu brought out a phone book and offered to help the customer an appropriate sushi bar. Of course times have changed; rolls started appearing, and then there was that day when Sakura's "sign of the times" went up.

Yes, times have changed, but Sakura is still around. I'm glad for that and will hopefully be back soon.

Izakaya Sakura
3904 Convoy St Ste 121
San Diego, CA 92111

Andres Restaurant Closes After 40 Years

About two weeks ago "ST" sent me an email, which I didn't get to for a while. In the email ST mentioned that Andres Restaurant was planning to close. Because of all our travels, I didn't get to that email for a while. Then yesterday, our good friend "Alle" sent me a text saying that this was Andres last dinner service and they were closing as of the 24th. I checked Andres website which confirmed that Andres was closing after 40 years in business.

Earlier this morning, I drove on over to Bird Rock on Morena for some coffee and then crossed the street to check out what was up with Andres.

IMG_2209 IMG_2211  Things looked pretty much the same with no large notices or signs. Until I took a look at the note on the door.

It looks like the restaurant is closing, while the market will remain open. It's a bit strange that I last visited Andres Market three weeks ago, but hadn't a clue about what was going on.

Both ST and Alle mentioned some family tragedy that prompted this rather sudden decision.

Regardless, I know of many folks who enjoy Andres; and many who grew up eating there. It's sad that over the last couple of years we've lost some much beloved eateries that had served their respective neighborhoods for years. I first posted on Andres in 2005!

Sad news.

1235 Morena Blvd
San Diego, CA 92110 

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Guanajuato (2022) – Museo Casa Diego Rivera and a Revisit to Mestizo

After doing a good bit of walking earlier in the day, we relaxed and took a short siesta. Upon getting up, we decided to head on out. Guanajuato was a fine place to stroll and just take in the different plazas. Like Plaza de Los Angeles.

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We needed to grab something from Oxxo, so we went down the stairs onto busy Avenida Benito Juarez and enjoyed the colorful buildings on the street.

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We had made very early dinner reservations with one stop in mind before our meal which was almost right across the street from the restaurant.

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Artist Diego Rivera was born in Guanajuato and though his family only lived there for a few years, the home he lived in has been made into a a museum.

IMG_2028 IMG_2017 (2)   Since we had already visited La Casa Azul earlier on the trip, I thought a visit here would be a nice "bookend". The building's restoration and conversion to a museum was initiated by Diego Rivera's daughter, Guadalupe Rivera Marin. As to how many children Diego Rivera had, well the numbers vary based on the source….

The museum is fairly small, but we enjoyed seeing the scope of Diego Rivera's work and the different styles he embraced from Cubism to Impressionism, to Post-Impressionism, and Muralism.

To be perfectly honest, before this trip, while I had read (and seen the movie) and seen the works of Frida Kahlo, I really did not know much about Diego Rivera.

Visiting Casa Azul, Museo Diego Rivera, and reading the various tales like how Leon Trotsky lived with the pair while in exile (Trotsky was assassinated in Coyoacán in 1940).

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IMG_2015 (2)  IMG_2012 (2)  According to this wonderful website Rivera feared for his life (it was uncovered in the 1990's that he was a informant for the US) and went the the American Embassy and ended up in San Francisco. During that time Frida and Diego got remarried and he lived out his life in Casa Azul.

Man, talk about real life being more interesting than fiction!

Museo Casa Diego Rivera
Positos 47
Zona Centro, 36000 Guanajuato, Mexico

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Even though Mestizo is basically a few buildings over from the museum, it was still a bit early, so we decided to drop off the stuff we got from Oxxo at the hotel. 

We noticed that the Basilica Guanajuato (full name – Basílica Colegiata de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato) was open as we exited the hotel, so we decided to take a peek.

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And then headed off to dinner. 

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We had enjoyed our previous meal at Mestizo so much that we had made reservations for a follow-up dinner on our last night in the city.

Service was just as friendly this time around and we ordered our favorites from that earlier meal along with one addition.

We did notice something different on this visit. 

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The flavors and presentation for the Tartar de Atun en Chile Viejo and the Chinchulines con Guacamole weren't quite as on the mark as on our previous visit.

We tried the Carpaccio de Pulpo con Xoconostle y Polvo de Chili Secos. Basically octopus with prickly pear and chili de arbol powder.

IMG_2035 IMG_2037  As before the tortillas were up to the task though not outstanding. The pulpo was on the tougher end of things and we thought more citrus/sour tones were needed as well. We enjoyed the lemony-peppery-slightly anise tones of the epazote.

The one saving grace was that the Tuetano was just as wonderfully buttery and beefy as on the first visit.

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So, while it seems that perhaps the "B" team was in charge on this evening, things ended on a high note for us.

Mestizo
Positos 69
Zona Centro, 36000 Guanajuato, Mexico

We then headed to La Clave Azul for a nightcap.

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Since this was our last evening in Guanajuato and we had really enjoyed ourselves, we decided to do a little victory lap…starting with Jardin de la Union.

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Where folks were out in full force.

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We ran into the sweet gal selling cheesecake and we ended up paying for two and asked her to "pay it forward"! 

As we got back to the hotel we noticed an interesting "scene"…..

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Hmmm, this fella looks familiar, right?

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There seems to always be something going on in Guanajuato!

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We slept well, got up, packed, and had breakfast at the hotel. The Nopales con Huevo were quite good.

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After breakfast, we checked out, and met our driver Aaron, who as always was right on time and got us to the airport. It was time to head on home……

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But….I'm sure we'll be back someday!

Thanks for stopping by!

Guanajuato (2022) – Breakfast at Santo Café

On our second full day in Guanajuato, we stretched our boundaries a bit and ended up going from the Southeast side of the city to the Northwest side.IMG_2044

While doing my research on Guanajuato, I noticed several posts on a charming looking café with seating on a bridge overlooking a cobbled street named Santo Café.  We had enjoyed walking in this wonderful city and even though it was a bit of "a truck" to the restaurant, we decided to head on over to Santo Café.

It was a pleasant walk, past places that were now familiar to us, Jardin de la Union, Teatro Juárez, and Templo de San Francisco.

We came across the street where Santo Café was located and walked up the stairs and crossed the bridge to the restaurant. It was fairly early and none of the three tables located on the bridge were taken.

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We placed our order and took one of the tables on the bridge. The Missus got a Cortado ($32/MX – $1.55/US) and I got an Americano ($30/MX – $1.50/US) which were decent.

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We got the Chilaquiles Verdes agrega dos Huevos ($117/MX – $5.80/US) to share, which ended up being more than enough for the Missus and I.

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The eggs were perfectly done, crisp edges, runny yolk. The chips maintained a good crispness, the queso wasn't intrusive, and the Missus loved the tangy, mildly spicy green sauce. The beans were creamy and earthy. A decent breakfast that would hold us until dinner.

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And for some reason, we enjoyed the view. A few folks even waved at us as they passed!

Santo Cafe
Del Campanero 4
Zona Centro, 36000 Guanajuato, Mexico

From here, we decided to head on out to of all places a cemetery. One of the most visited placed in Guanajuato is the Museo de las Momias, the mummy museum. The Missus wasn't interested in visiting, though during our walking tour, Susana mentioned that the cemetery where the mummies were found was actually next door to the museum. We decided to get some steps in and visit the cemetery.

So we headed on out.

One interesting tidbit about Guanajuato. Miguel Cervantes is quite popular here and Don Quixote even more so.

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There's even the La Casa del Quijote, the Don Quixote Museum.

IMG_1988_2 IMG_1991  There's a Cervantes Festival in Guanajuato. And the Wikipedia page on the festival also mentions some of the background of why Cervantes is such a big part of the city.

Walking past Teatro Juárez and Iglesia de San Diego during the day provides a different view of things. At night, this is a bustling, lively area of the city and it's easy to miss things.

Like the two statues below. The one on the left is called "La Giganta". The one on the right is of a Rondalla Singer.

IMG_1992 IMG_1996_02 From the center of town we made our way Northwest, past Mercado Hidalgo, then up the one of the hills that surround the town. Right past the Mummy Museum is Panteón Municipal Santa Paula, the cemetery.

Which was quite large…..

It was in this cemetery that the mummies for the museum were found. Apparently, there was a "burial tax" that had to be paid for perpetual burial. When taxes were not paid, the bodies were disinterred and stored in a nearby building. The environment of Guanajuato is conducive to mummification.

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While walking amongst the graves we noticed this pooch…..

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Who seemed to be on a mission. So we followed…..

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Apparently, this pup has a favorite spot in the cemetery where it just went and took a nap.

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All in all, an interesting visit.

From here we headed back into town.

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Down the colorful streets of Guanajuato.

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It was time for a nice siesta. So we could enjoy our last afternoon and evening in this colorful city.

Con Pane and Garden Coffee

On one of our recent trips, to a city well known for their cuisine, one of the Missus's favorite things She consumed, was, well….avocado toast? In fact, She had it three times during our visit! To be perfectly honest, the shop baked their own sourdough and the avo-toast was really good.

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That sourdough bread was just perfect; sliced thin, great flavor, super texture….well, of course when got back home, the Missus wanted…avocado toast. Though finding the right bread was going to be an issue. After trying a couple of places, I ended up going back to Con Pane, which I've mentioned several times in comments and posts, but had never done a post on the place. It used to be a favorite for a passable baguette, but after the bakery reopened under the ownership of the Cohn Group, well the baguettes weren't up to what we were used to. I dropped by and picked up a sourdough loaf and had it sliced thin…and guess what, while it's still a bit on the "San Diego chewy bread" side, Con Pane has now returned as a regular stop for us. As in weekly for the last month.

CP 01  CP 02  Con Pane has two distinct lines; one for ordering food and café items. The other for bread and pastry only. As you can tell, I go first thing in the morning when they open. I'll often park all the way down by Trader Joe's and get a couple of extra steps in, while shopping at both places.

The bread line usually goes fast.

Like I said; I get the sourdough boule, sliced thin. 

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And I'm usually in and out in a few minutes.

CP 05  CP 06  While still a bit on the chewy side, when toasted it achieves a nice crispness, with good sour-tangy tones which doesn't overwhelm the yeastiness of the bread.

The Missus enjoys a good amount of avocado, with a squeeze of lemon, topped with cilantro micro-greens. I like making panini's and pressed sandwiches with salumi, cheese, and tomato.

So, who knows, maybe I'll try the baguette again one of these days.

Con Pane Rustic Breads & Café
2750 Dewey Rd.
San Diego, CA 92106
Hours:
Mon – Wed 8am – 3pm
Thurs – Sun 8am – 5pm

At the beginning of the month, I ran into "Bruddah Noel", who told me that he was now working at Garden Coffee in Old Town. I had never heard of the place and Noel gave me instructions on how to find it. It's was supposedly close to Tuetano Taqueria and the Congress Cafe. I looked at the address on Congress street, but don't recall seeing a coffee shop. After parking my car, I saw the sign.

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So, I followed the signs…..

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And came to a closed gate…..

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So I made my way to Congress Street to the gate I thought was closed….it wasn't……duh….

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And walked down into a cute little area…..

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And the little shop was doing some good business….

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Garden Coffee 06  Garden Coffee 07 There were a couple of folks working on their laptops….when things slowed down a bit I got a chance to chat with Noel. I got my cold brew….Noel knows exactly how I take it.

It's a cute little place and it seems there's quite a few regular customers. I guess the rather discreet location means you have to want to find it….

They also have plants for sale as well.

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Garden Coffee 08b  Garden Coffee 09 I've been back a couple of time and all the folks working are friendly. One of Noel's coworkers went to Sacred Hearts Academy "back home"…in my old neighborhood. Nice peaceful vibe in Old Town, I can see why folks like having a cup of coffee, maybe a pastry, and working at their laptops for a while here.

Currently, Garden Coffee is only open from 9am to 3pm Tuesdays to Saturdays. So, for me, with four coffee shops in the area that I frequent Garden Coffee will be a destination for a "late" cup.

I hope Noel does well! 

Garden Coffee
2611 Congress St.
San Diego, CA 92110
Hours:
Tues – Sat 9am – 3pm

Sunday Stuffs – Pelicana Chicken Replacing Urban Eats and Flama Llama Replacing Chef Chin’s

Amazing the changes one can see during a quick trip to Nijiya! Here are two…..

Pelicana Chicken Replacing Urban Eats:

Well, if you're keeping score (and I may be missing a couple of places here), Urban Eats replaced Hi Street, which replaced Char House

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Established in Daejeon, South Korea in 1982, this chain serves up…….well, you guessed it, Korean Fried Chicken! I'm wondering if Kearny Mesa is in the competition for most Korean Fried Chicken places per square mile in the US? I mean, at HMart you have Katzya, right around the corner and ahem right across the street you have Cross Street, which is nearly across the street from BB.Q Chicken, right in the next parking lot in the Hive is Knockout Chicken, north of Balboa you have Bonchon, and in Zion you have Gala Chicken! And there I was complaining about all the Hot Chicken places opening in San Diego!

7767 Balboa Ave.
San Diego, CA 92111

Chef Chin's Being Replaced by a Flama Llama?:

I saw construction going on at the former location of Chef Chin on Convoy, so I took a left into the parking lot.

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Looks like a place named Flama Llama? So, I did a quick search and found this which states that the owner of Steamy Piggy and Formoosa is opening a restaurant that "will bring a new take on Latin American cuisine." I dunno, how about just having some good Latin American cuisine period?

4433 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111

Hope everyone is having a great weekend!

Guanajuato (2022) – La Table de Andrée and La Clave Azul

After our walking tour and lunch at La Vela, we did a bit of shopping, then returned to our room for a short nap. Soon enough it as dinner time. On the evening we had dinner at Mestizo, there was a restaurant we noticed across the street named La Table de Andrée. It was a French restaurant….in Guanajuato……we looked over the menu and decided why not? After our dinner we strolled over and made dinner reservations.

We had early reservations and were the first customers in the restaurant. The staff was really friendly and accommodating.

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The Missus got a glass of wine which She enjoyed and we placed our order.

The baguette was interesting; it was super light almost like banh mi.

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The amuse was bacon wrapped dates…..not a bad start.

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We ordered the Pate de Cerdo al Cognac – pork pate.

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This was not bad; porky, slightly sweet, boozy-winey, nicely chilled and moist, a bit on the crumbly side. It went well with the whole grain mustard which added a bit of pungent-spice. The portion size was quite generous as well.

The Missus got the Camarones a la Persillada – shrimp with parsley sauce.

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The shrimp was a tad overcooked and the risotto was on the hard side. The sauce was nicely flavored though.

I went with the Hachis Parmentier, a classic French dish that uses leftover Beef Stew topped with mashed potato and baked.

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This version used a very flavorful leftover Beef Bourguignon, super tender and beefy, and I believe there was come chorizo as well in this. It was topped with buttery mashed potatoes and cheese which was nicely broiled adding a wonderful texture to things. his was quite good!

The Missus enjoyed Her dessert.

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Overall, the dinner was better than we thought it would be. I'm thinking that being a college town, there might be a diverse clientele……as we noticed some French speakers, a German couple among the other customers.

La Table de Andrée
Positos 66
Zona Centro, 36000 Guanajuato, Mexico

After dinner we decided to head on over to the bar Susana recommended and we were glad we did.

IMG_5265  IMG_5266  It was somewhat divey, the bartender was super friendly, the decor was quirky and eclectic. The music was what I often call the Unites States' greatest export…rock 'n roll.

I enjoyed my Victoria and chased it with some local Mezcal. Guanajuato is one of the nine states within Mexico that have DO (Denomination of Origin) to produce Mezcal. This was a nice Espadin the bartender picked out for me.

We really liked the bartender and the vibe and would end up returning here the following evening.

IMG_5267 IMG_2058 La Clave Azul
Segunda De Cantaritos 31
Centro, 36000 Guanajuato, Mexico

We then headed on over to Jardin de la Union….all cities have their central plaza, where folks gather during the day (and night). For Guanajuato it's Jardin de la Union. Things were bustling and alive.

Folks walking and chatting….Mariachi working the crowds. We ran into a young lady selling cheesecakes who walked up to us and spoke perfect English. She is from Texas, but returned with Her Dad to Guanajuato. She helps out the family by selling the dad's cheesecakes, which were terrible, but of course we bought some. I wish I could remember her name; she was so sweet.

It was a lively scene.

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We were enjoying our time in Guanajuato.

Thanks for stopping by!

Guanajuato (2022) – Doing a Private Walking Tour and Lunch at La Vela

When planning to visit Guanajuato the Missus and I realized that we really didn't know much about the city. So, I did a bit of research and scheduled a private walking tour of the city. It would turn out to a be a highlight of our trip.

We started out the day by having breakfast at the hotel – Chilaquiles and fruit.

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After breakfast we headed off to our designated meeting spot near the Hotel Real Guanajuato. Our guide Susana was a treasure; born and raised in Guanajuato, she gave us a in depth history, as well as local insights. There was just so much that I'll just provide a mild outline. In fact, I recommended Susana to FOY "RonR" who also did a tour and from what I understand enjoyed it as well. Susana took us to all the main sights, went thru the history and significance, gave us some recommendations. 

There was a bit of research that I did before the tour. I knew that Guanajuato was once the home of the most productive silver mine in the world. And that combined with the obvious wealth which in turn created some wonderful structures has gotten Guanajuato a UNESCO listing. I also knew that the city played an important role in the Mexican War of Independence. In fact, the first stop was the Alhóndiga de Granaditas, now the Regional Museum of Guanajuato. Susana wove a tail of how the royalist barricaded themselves in the building, which was a granary. A battle ensued ensued and the building by the insurgents lead by an unlikely hero. More on that later. Sadly, I was so taken by the story that I forgot to take photos of the building! I thought I took photos, but sadly did not.

Next stop was the ever busy and huge Mercado Hidalgo.

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Here we were introduced to the most important item in the market; the shrine of Mary.

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As we walked among the food stands Susana said hello to a gentleman. She then told us, "he is the chef for my favorite restaurant in the city" and the we should eat there. The name of the place? Mestizo! We had a good laugh when we told her that we had dinner there the previous evening! Susana seemed to know quite a few people. She told us that her grandfather ran a bakery in town for many years. She then pointed to the church across from Mercado Hidalgo….

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And told us; "I was baptized here…." This is the Parroquia y Templo de Belén.

We strolled thru several plazas and there were stories……

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Susana recommended that we stop by this place for a drink and we ended up returning twice.

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Susana was great when we inquired about various monuments we saw.

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The statue above is of Enrique Ruelas Espinosa who founded the University of Guanajuato Theatre and also established the Cervantes Festival…..yes, Guanajuato has a "thing" about Don Quixote.

There were just so may interesting places and stories.

IMG_5220  IMG_5222  We walked down one of the side streets and came to a point where two buildings were a mere two feet apart. This was the scene of a tragic, "Romeo and Juliette" story. Thus giving the spot the name "Callejón del Beso" (Alley of the Kiss). To quote the story in Atlas Obscura:

"According to local legend a wealthy family lived in one of the buildings that helped create the alley, and their daughter, whose bedroom window looked out onto the alley, fell in love with a young man from the wrong side of the tracks. The young man rented out the room in the building across from hers with a window that was directly across from her own as well. Then they would secretly meet and kiss across the tiny alley. Unfortunately, the girl’s father found out, and in a fit of rage, stabbed his daughter to death. Most accounts of the story end it there, but some go a bit further, saying the young man then threw himself to his death in the alley below."

More versions of the story here and here.

We got there and watched a couple walk up to the steps, their three children cheering them on, taking photos, and giggling until they kissed!

In my previous post I mentioned that much of the traffic in Guanajuato is diverted underground.

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We left the colorful streets of Guanajuato and went down stairs.

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And into the underground tunnels.

IMG_5225 IMG_1923   Naturally, the first thing that came to mind was that this was a product of the silver mining days of the city. Which was incorrect. These tunnels were actually created in the late 19th century to divert the Guanajuato River which had flooded the city several times. In fact, Susana went and showed us markers of the height of the waters of several historic floods in the city's history.

I guess expert miners would be pretty good with creating tunnels, right? When it was decided that traffic should run under the city, another deeper set of tunnels were created to divert the river.

As we got to Teatro Juárez, the last leg of our tour was set to start.

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We were given the choice of taking the funicular or walking up the hill to the statue of El Pipila.

Well, you know what the Missus chose, right? Actually, it was a fun walk, especially checking out all the pooches along the way.

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And at the top was a spectacular view of the city.

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And above it all was the statue of El Pipila.

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El Pipila was of course a nickname. The gentleman's real name was Juan José de los Reyes Martínez Amaro. It is said that he was given the moniker "El Pipila", which means "the turkey" either because he had a certain complexion or more popularly, because he was born with a birth defect that affected the way he walked. So, what did El Pipila do? Well, El Pipila was a miner, who during the siege of Alhóndiga de Granaditas, when things were at a standstill, El Pipila tied a stone slab to his back to repel arrows and bullets and rushed the door of the granary. He carried with him a torch and tar. He coated the door with tar and set fire to the door. The smoke from the fire meant the garrison in the granary could not accurately aim, folks outside gained entrance to the building and the garrison was defeated. And the Mexican Independence movement gained momentum. And the legend of El Pipila was born.

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We enjoyed the street art on the walk back down.

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It was a wonderful walking tour. Susana bade us farewell at Teatro Juárez and we did a bit of shopping and decided to grabbing some lunch. Close by was a place I had on my list….a Mariscos shop named La Vela.

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One of my favorite things was what I believe is the shop pooch? He started inside….

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And then when he saw us. he decided to "hang" with us and get some sun.

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Of course things soon got pretty warm out on the street so he grabbed a spot near us.

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As for the food….well, from what I had read, one of the specialties of La Vela was the "marlin", smoked fish. And you know how the Missus loves Her smoked fish.

We started with some Flautas de Marlin ($80/MX – $4/US)

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Loved the greens, but the tortillas were too chewy and the marlin really dry.

I was curious about the Caldo de Pescado ($95/Mx – $4.75/US) having had my share of mariscos "consomme" over the years.

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Man, this had a greasy tongue feel, and was very bland.

The highlight of the meal was the gigantic Empanada de Marlin con Queso ($60/MX – $3/US)

IMG_1949  IMG_1951  Nice and crisp exterior, the smoked fish was really the star of the show here. It was moist, smokey, not overly salty, with great savory tones. The queso was used sparingly, which was actually a good thing. Look at all that smoked fish!

So, perhaps not the best lunch we've ever had. But it ended on a high note. Plus, that pooch entertained us. Now, if only that Asian dude at the other table on a call, telling folks he's from "Irvine"  and went to "Xxxx University" and how he knows everything could have used his inside voice….well, it might have been a nicer meal.

La Vela
36000, Constancia 6
Guanajuato, Gto., Mexico

Well, I know this is  a rather long post. So thanks for reading!